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s 

l 


33  C=a  I 


IN  THE  FORECASTLE; 


X-  OIjEVEIjA.]NrD- 


“ Avert  you  omen,  Gracious  Heaven, 
The  angry  scud, 

By  rising  winds  resistless  driven 
Kisses  the  i^ood. 

How  hard  the  lot  of  sailors  is, 

Far,  far  to  roam  : 

And  then  to  perish  on  the  main. 

In  sight  of  home,” 


NEW  YORK. 

MANHATTAN  PUBLISHING  COMPANY, 


CK, 


Sailor. 


BY 


Dibcttn. 


37  Pet  Street. 


PREFACE. 


character  of  the  citizens  of  New  England 
for  enterprise  and  industry,  is  very  generally 
acknowledged.  Being  for  the  most  part  obliged 
to  seek  their  own  fortunes,  they  are  thus  early 
accustomed  to  the  endurance  of  privations, 
and  to  those  industrious  and  frugal  habits, 
which  lead  to  competence  and  wealth.  In  the 
pursuit  of  that  independence  of  which  all  are 
more  or  less  desirous,  there  have  been  instances  of 
daring  enterprise,  of  persevering  determination,  of 
disregard  of  fatigue  and  suffering,  which  are  very 
remarkable ; but  which  pass  unobserved  from  their 
frequency,  no  less  than  from  the  unobtrusive  habits  of 
the  actors. 


10 


8 


PREFACE. 


A simple  account  of  such  enterprises,  drawn  from  journals 
and  letters  written  at  the  time  the  events  therein  related 
occurred,  is  here  given  to  the  public,  which  will  be  found 
intensely  interesting  to  the  young  merchant  to  trace  some  of 
the  great  revolutions  in  the  commerce  of  the  world,  which 
have  occurred  within  the  above-named  periods ; and  those  of 
advanced  age  may  be  induced  to  recur  to  by-gone  days, 
with  pleasing,  even  if  accompanied  with  melancholy  associa- 
tions. 

For  several  years  preceding  the  date  of  the  first  of  my 
voyages,  the  merchants  of  the  United  States,  and  particu- 
larly those  of  Salem,  carried  on  an  active  and  lucrative 
commerce  with  the  Isles  of  France  and  Bourbon,  which  was 
continued  up  to  the  period  of  the  conquest  of  those  islands 
by  the  British,  since  which  it  has  nearly  ceased.  That  im- 
portant product  of  our  country,  cotton,  which  is  now  its 
greatest  and  most  valuable  article  of  export,  employing  a 
greater  amount  of  tonnage  than  any  other,  was  then  un- 
known as  an  article  of  export  from  the  United  States ; and 
the  little  required  for  the  consumption  of  our  domestic  fa- 
brics was  imported  from  Bemerara,  Surinam,  and  the  West 
India  Islands.  The  trade  to  the  Northwest  Coast  of  Amer- 
ica, which  for  about  twenty-five  years  was  actively  and  al- 
most exclusively  pursued  from  Boston,  on  an  extensive  scale, 
and  to  great  advantage,  has  for  some  years  been  abandoned, 
from  the  scarcity  and  high  price  of  furs,  caused  by  the 
competition  of  the  Russians,  who  have  gradually  advanced 
their  posts  far  to  the  south  of  those  places  where  my  cargo 
was  collected ; and  where  they  were  not  then  seen.  The 
sealing  voyages,  which  were  prosecuted  most  actively  from 


PREFACE. 


9 


New  Haven,  Norwich,  and  Stonington,  principally  to  the 
Island  of  Masafuera,  and  by  which  sudden  and  large  for- 
tunes were  made,  have,  for  many  years  past,  been  produc- 
tive of  little  comparative  advantage  to  the  few  yet  engaged 
in  them ; and  this  in  consequence  of  the  animal’s  being 
almost  annihilated. 

Our  cargoes  from  China,  which  were  formerly  paid  for  in 
these  furs,  and  in  Spanish  dollars,  are  now  procured  for 
bills  on  England,  for  opium,  and  for  European  and  Ameri- 
can fabrics.  The  cotton  and  silk  manufactures  of  Indostan 
constituted  formerly,  almost  exclusively,  the  cargoes  of  our 
ships  from  Calcutta,  which  were  paid  for  in  Spanish  dol- 
lars, and  which  generally  yielded  large  profits.  At  this  time 
our  cotton  fabrics  are  so  much  better  and  cheaper,  as  en- 
tirely to  have  superseded  the  importation  of  those  ; and  most 
of  the  articles  which  now  compose  a cargo  from  Calcutta, 
excepting  saltpetre  and  bandanas,  were  then  scarcely  known 
there,  as  articles  of  export  to  this  country.  Bills  on  Eng- 
land in  payment  for  these  cargoes,  as  well  as  for  those 
laden  at  other  ports  of  India,  have  been  substituted  for 
Spanish  dollars,  which  formerly  were  indispensable  to  the 
prosecution  of  this  trade. 

When  I first  visited  the  ports  of  Brazil,  of  Chili,  of  Peru, 
of  Mexico,  and  of  California,  they  had  been  for  ages,  and 
were  then,  so  exclusively  used  for  their  own  respective  flags, 
that  the  admittance  of  one  of  a foreign  nation  was  granted 
only  on  the  most  palpable  evidence  of  a necessity,  which  it 
would  be  inhuman  not  to  relieve.  When  admitted,  no  indi- 
vidual belonging  to  the  vessel  was  permitted  to  land,  or  to 
walk  the  streets  of  the  city,  without  the  disagreeable  incum- 


10 


PREFACE. 


brance  of  a soldier  following  him ; hence  the  difficulty  of 
obtaining  information,  and  consequently  the  meagre  accounts 
given  of  the  manners  and  customs  of  those  nations. 

The  revolutions  in  those  countries  which  have  been  effect- 
ed with  so  much  individual  distress,  and  so  great  loss  of 
life,  though  far  from  having  produced  the  prosperity  and  hap- 
piness anticipated  by  their  most  enlightened  patriots,  have 
nevertheless  caused  their  ports  to  be  thrown  open  for  the 
admission  of  the  flags  of  all  nations.  ‘ This  has  afforded  op- 
portunities to  strangers  for  visiting  them,  which  have  been 
abundantly  improved ; and  the  numerous  and  elaborate  ac- 
counts of  them  which  have  been  given  to  the  world,  within 
a few  years,  by  literary  men,  who  possessed  the  requisite 
leisure  and  opportunity  for  the  purpose,  seemed  to  obviate 
the  necessity  of  my  attempting  to  enlarge  on  those  subjects. 
The  same  reason  forbade  the  attempt  at  more  than  cursory 
and  passing  descriptions  of  countries,  cities,  customs,  and 
manners  in  other  parts  of  the  globe,  visited  by  me  for  ob- 
jects exclusively  of  a commercial  character. 

Equally,  if  not  even  more  remarkable  than  the  changes 
above  mentioned,  are  those  observable  at  the  Sandwich 
Islands,  since  my  first  visit  there  in  the  year  1799.  Then 
the  inhabitants  were  but  little  elevated  from  the  barbarous 
state  in  which  they  were  found  by  Captain  Cook  ; now  they 
are  comparatively  a civilized  people,  sensible  of  the  value  of 
instruction,  and  eager  to  obtain  it ; cultivating  their  fields, 
&nd,  by  an  extended  and  increasing  foreign  trade,  afford- 
ing a most  remarkable  instance  of  the  ameliorating  and  hu 
manizing  effects  of  commerce. 

In  these  days  of  philanthropy,  when  there  are  so  many 


PREFACE. 


11 


zealous  advocates  and  active  promoters  of  the  great  and 
truly  benevolent  cause  of  temperance,  it  is  proper  and  be 
coming  in  every  well  wisher  to  the  advancement  of  this 
cause,  to  aid  it  in  every  way  in  his  power.  With  such 
impressions,  and  with  the  favorable  opportunity  now  present- 
ed, I should  consider  it  reprehensible  to  withhold  from  the 
public  a statement  of  facts  relating  to  myself  personally, 
and  which  no  other  consideration  than  the  hope  of  doing 
good,  would  induce  me  to  make,  although  they  may  be  viewed 
by  many  as  not  the  least  extraordinary  of  the  facts  which 
have  been  narrated. 

I am  not,  nor  have  I ever  been  a member  of  a tem- 
perance society ; but  I was  a practical  temperance  man  long 
before  such  societies  were  dreamed  of.  At  the  period  when 
I began  my  nautical  career,  it  was  a universally  received 
maxim,  that  drinking  grog  and  chewing  tobacco  were  two 
essential  and  indispensable  requisites  for  making  a good  sear 
man.  So  omnipotent  is  custom,  and  so  powerful  is  satire, 
that  although  the  absurdity  of  such  a maxim  must  be  appa- 
rent to  every  one,  I have,  nevertheless,  seen  many  young 
men  repeatedly  made  sick  before  overcoming  the  disgust, 
and  some  of  them  afterwards  became  miserable  drunkards. 
As  alcohol  and  tobacco  were  in  no  degree  less  offensive  to 

me  than  I had  evidence  of  their  being  to  my  associates,  it 

appeared  to  me  that  to  submit  to  the  ridicule  rather  than 

to  the  sickness,  was  selecting  the  least  of  the  evils,  and  I 

acted  accordingly. 

Those  who  may  honor  me  with  a perusal  of  my  narrative 
will  perceive,  that  I have  navigated  to  all  parts  of  the 
world,  from  the  sixtieth  degree  of  south  latitude,  to  the  six 


12 


PREFACE. 


tieth  degree  north  ; and  sometimes  in  vessels  whose  diminu- 
tive size  and  small  number  of  men  caused  exposure  to  wet 
and  cold,  greatly  surpassing  what  is  usually  experienced  in 
ships  of  ordinary  capacity ; that  I have  been  exposed  to  the 
influence  of  the  most  unhealthy  places ; at  Batavia,  where  I 
have  seen  whole  crews  prostrate  with  the  fever,  and  death 
making  havoc  among  them ; at  San  Bias,  where  the  na- 
tives can  stay  only  a portion  of  the  year ; at  the  Havana, 
within  whose  walls  I have  resided  five  years  consecutively ; 
that  I have  suffered  captivity,  robbery,  imprisonment,  ruin, 
and  the  racking  anxiety  consequent  thereon.  And  yet,  through 
the  whole,  and  to  the  present  sixty-eighth  year  of  my  age, 
I have  never  taken  a drop  of  spirituous  liquor  of  any  kind ; 
never  a glass  of  wine,  of  porter,  ale,  or  beer,  or  any  bev- 
erage stronger  than  tea  and  coffee  ; and,  moreover,  I have 
never  used  tobacco  in  any  way  whatever  ; and  this,  not 
only  without  injury,  but,  on  the  contrary,  to  the  preserva- 
tion of  my  health.  Headache  is  known  to  me  by  name 
only ; and  excepting  those  fevers  which  were  produced  by 
great  anxiety  and  excitement,  my  life  has  been  free  from 
sickness. 

The  following  narrative  will  enable  the  reader  to  form  a 
comparison  between  a seaman’s  profession  and  his  own  ; and, 
possibly,  after  perusing  it,  he  will  be  less  disturbed  by  the 
annoyances  which  peculiarly  beset  him.  He  will  perceive  that 
the  master  of  a merchant  ship,  in  whom  are  united  the 
duties  of  navigator  and  factor,  is  subjected  to  great  care 
and  responsibility,  even  on  ordinary  and  well-defined  voyages. 
These  are  greatly  augmented  when  the  enterprise  is  envel- 
oped in  darkness  from  the  unknown  political  state  of  the 


PREFACE. 


13 


countries  whither  he  is  destined ; from  the  contingencies  which 
may  be  presented  to  him ; and  from  the  necessity  of  great 
circumspection,  decision,  and  promptitude,  in  the  choice  of 
them.  If  he  is  timid  and  afraid  to  enter  a port  where 
there  is  uncertainty  of  a friendly  reception,  it  may  cause 
the  ruin  of  his  voyage.  If,  on  the  contrary,  he  is  bold, 
and  enters  such  port,  confiding  in  the  protection  of  existing 
treaties,  and  the  laws  of  nations,  he  may  also  become  the 
victim  of  arbitrary  power,  confided  to  unworthy  and  ignor- 
ant individuals.  If  success  attend  his  enterprise,  when  re- 
turning home  with  ample  compensation  for  his  labor,  he  runs 
the  risk  of  having  it  all  snatched  from  him  by  some  hun- 
gry satellite  of  that  great  high-sea  robber,  termed  “ His,”  or 
“ Her  Majesty.”  Thus,  in  addition  to  the  ordinary  perils 
of  hurricanes  and  storms,  of  rocks  and  shoals,  he  has  to 
incur  the  greater  ones  of  the  cupidity  and  villany  of  man. 

Of  the  ordinary  labor  and  fatigue  attendant  on  the  pro- 
fession, the  same  individual  would  form  opposite  conclusions 
in  different  circumstances.  The  man  who  makes  a winter’s 
passage  from  Europe  to  America,  and  encounters  the  usual 
storms  and  seventy  of  weather  peculiar  to  that  passage,  will 
probably  pronounce  the  seaman’s  life  to  be  the  hardest,  the 
most  dangerous,  the  most  irksome,  the  most  wearing  to  body 
and  mind,  of  any  one  of  the  pursuits  of  man.  On  the  con- 
trary, he  who  sails  from  the  United  States  to  Calcutta,  to 
China,  or  to  South  America,  avoiding  our  winter’s  coast, 
may  perform  the  voyage  without  experiencing  a gale  of 
greater  severity  than  would  require  the  sails  to  be  reefed, 
a pleasing  excitement  when  the  necessity  is  of  rare  occur- 
rence ; and  he  would  probably  decide  that  no  profession  is 


14 


PREFACE. 


so  easy,  so  pleasant,  and  so  free  from  care,  as  the  sea- 
man’s. These  are  the  two  extremes,  between  which,  as  may 
be  supposed,  there  are  gradations,  which  will  tend  to  incline 
the  scale  one  way  or  the  other,  according  to  circumstances. 

The  experience  of  more  than  twenty-five  years,  passed  in  nav- 
igating to  all  parts  of  the  world,  has  led  me  to  the  con- 
clusion, that  though  the  hardships  and  privations  of  a sea- 
man’s life  be  greater  than  those  of  any  other,  there  is  a 
compensation  in  the  very  excitement  of  its  dangers,  in  the 
opportunity  it  affords  of  visiting  different  countries,  and  view- 
ing mankind  in  the  various  gradations  between  the  most 
barbarous  and  the  most  refined ; and,  in  the  ever-changing 
scenes  which  this  occupation  presents.  And  I can  say,  with 
truth,  that  I not  only  feel  no  regret  for  having  chosen  this 
profession  rather  than  any . other,  but  that  if  my  life  were 
to  be  passed  over  again,  I should  pursue  the  same  course. 


CONTENTS 


Preface. . . I 


CHAPTER  I. 

Tlie  Counting  House.  A Salem  merchant.  His  ships  and  masters.  Distant 
voyages.  Their  excitement  My  first  voyage.  Disgust  with  it.  Become 
master  of  the  Enterprise.  Voyage  to  Bourbon 25 

CHAPTER  H. 

Voyage  to  Havre.  Disappointment.  Send  home  the  Enterprise.  Buy  a cut- 
ter. Amount  of  vessel  and  cargo.  Explanation  of  my  plan.  Apprehension 
of  my  friends.  Name  of  the  vessel.  Sail  from  Havre.  Disaster.  Attempt 
to  return.  Fall  to  leeward.  Come  to  anchor.  Cables  part.  Run  ashore.  Hu- 
mane conduct  of  the  people.  They  unlade  and  get  off  the  vessel.  Enter 
river  Orme.  Stop  the  leaks.  Return  to  Havre.  Repair  the  vessel.  The  crew 
desert 40 


CHAPTER  IH. 

Difficulty  in  procuring  men.  Partially  accomplished.  Sail  from  Havre.  A Brit- 
ish Frigate.  Ushant.  Sketch  of  the  crew.  Anecdotes  of  George.  His 
bravery  and  fidelity.  Swimming  after  the  pig.  British  Frigate  Stag.  Danger 
of  contact.  Chased  off  Cadiz.  Boarded  from  a French  privateer.  Released 
unharmed.  Cape  de  Verde  Islands.  A gale.  Lose  a cask  of  water.  Causes 
a necessity  of  stopping  at  Cape  of  Good  Hope.  Arrival.  Interview  'with  the 
Admiral.  Many  visitors.  Suspicion  of  our  object.  Interview  ■with  Lord 
Macartney.  Searched  for  papers.  Sell  the  vessel.  Trouble  with  the  Collec- 
tor. Appeal  to  Lord  Macartney.  Adjusted.  The  vessel  despatched.  Never 
heard  of  after 


15 


49 


16 


CONTENTS. 


CHAPTER  IV. 

Description  of  the  Cope.  Of  the  town.  Effects  of  southeast  wind.  Devil's  Ta- 
ble Cloth.  Season  of  westerly  gales.  Dangerous  to  the  shipping.  Loss  of  the 
Sceptre.  Loss  of  ship  Jefferson.  Notice  of  the  inhabitants.  Their  feelings 
under  the  actual  government,  Simon’s  Bay.  Constantia.  Signal  Hill.  Resi- 
dence and  resource  of  the  man  stationed  there.  Table  Mountain.  The  ascent 
and  view  therefrom.  Perilous  situation.  Mode  of  rescue.  Descent  and  return 
to  town . „ 62 


CHAPTER  V. 

Impatience  to  be  off.  Embark  for  Batavia.  Chased  by  a Brig.  Outsail  her. 
Arrival  at  Batavia.  Governor’s  surprise  at  our  quick  passage.  Hotel.  Amer- 
ican commerce.  Effect  of  the  climate  on  Europeans.  Market.  The  Bav. 
Sharks  and  aligators.  No  opportunity  to  freight  to  the  United  States.  Embark 
for  China.  Arrival  at  Macao.  A typhon.  Lose  an  anchor.  Arrive  at  Wham- 
poa. At  Canton.  Embarrassment  as  to  next  destination.  Arrival  and  pur- 
chase of  an  English  cutter.  Associates  in  the  adventure.  Factories.  Recourse 
of  beggars  to  compel  alms.  Enter  the  city.  Result (17 


CHAPTER  VI. 

Information  from  Boston.  Difficulty  of  obtaining  men.  Northeast  Monsoon. 

A choice  of  difficulties.  Sail  from  Anson’s  Bay.  Anchoring  when  the  tides 
were  against  us.  Narrow  escape.  Rocks  and  shoals.  Strike  and  stopped  on  a 
sunken  ledge.  Come  off  as  the  tide  rises.  Anchor  and  procure  water  and 
wood.  Curiosity  of  the  people.  Stormy  weather.  Pass  through  a breaker 
unhurt.  Keep  company  with  a Chinese  fleet.  They  enter  Amoy.  Anchor 
outside.  Dangerous  navigation.  Island  of  Kemoy.  Mutiny.  Means  of  sub- 
duing it.  Leave  six  men  behind.  Visit  from  a Chinese.  Weather  the  north 
end  of  Formosa.  Heavy  gales  across  the  Pacific.  Discontent  of  the  crewv . . . 7E 


CHAPTER  Vn. 

See  the  coast  of  America.  Prepare  bulwarks.  Anchor  at  Norfolk  Sound.  Dis- 
charge a cannon.  Natives  come  to  us.  Caution  to  them.  Their  appearance. 
Purchase  skins.  Tribe.  An  accident.  Result.  Chatham  Straits.  Ship 
Eliza.  Suspicious  conduct  of  the  natives.  An  alarm.  Steeken.  War  canoe. 

A present.  Request  to  stop  the  rain.  A deserter.  Recovered.  Game.  An- 
chor in  a cove.  Hostile  attitude  of  the  natives.  Leave  them.  Ship  Cheerful. 
Dangerous  position  of  the  vessel.  Escape.  Repair  the  damage.  Ships  Han 
cock  and  Despatch,  of  Boston.  Skittigates.  A stratagem.  Howlings  in 
the  night.  Sensibility  of  a native.  Chiefs  Kow,  Coneyaw,  andEltargee.  ...  DC 


CONTENTS. 


n 


CHAPTER  VIII. 

Sail  for  Sandwich  Islands.  My  satisfaction.  Owhyhee.  Provisions  and  Fruit. 
Natives.  Mcwee.  Proceed  westward.  Tinian.  Anchor  in  the  Typa.  The 
ship  Ontario.  Reflections  caused  by  her  loss.  Proceed  to  Whampoa  and  Can- 
ton. Take  a factory.  Contract  for  the  cargo.  Causes  operating  to  discourage 
a return  to  the  coast.  Sell  the  cutter.  Embark  for  Calcutta.  Malacca.  Pulo 
Pinang.  Procure  a Pilot.  Arrive  at  Calcutta • . 108 


CHAPTER  IX. 

Captain  Lay.  Take  a house.  Servants.  George  pressed.  Application  for  his 
release  to  the  town  Major  and  to  the  Chief  of  Police.  Unsuccessful.  To  Lord 
Momington.  George  restored.  His  gratitude.  American  commerce.  Buy  a 
boat.  Danish  Flag.  Deer  hunt  by  tigers.  Observations  on  Calcutta.  Isle  of 
France.  Culpu.*  Danger  in  passing  the  Barabulla.  Arrival  at  Isle  of 
France  118 


CHAPTER  X. 

Good  fortune.  Visit  the  Governor.  His  civility.  William  Shaler.  Dinner  at  the 
Governor’s.  Sell  the  vessel  and  cargo.  Isle  of  Bourbon.  St.  Dennis.  St. 
Paul’s.  Riviere  d’  Aborde.  Mr.  Nairac.  Dinner  Party.  Pass  near  the  volcano. 

St.  Benoit.  Return  to  St.  Dennis.  Return  to  Isle  of  France.  Death  of  the 
Governor.  Honors  to  his  memory.  Entry  of  a Hamburgh  ship.  Cut  out  by 
English  boats.  Purchase  coffee.  Confiance  and  Kent.  Mode  of  capture. 
Bravery  aud  generosity  of  Surcouffe.  Brig  Traveller.  A duel.  Kent  sold. 
Freight  her.  Naturaliste  and  Geographe 27 


CHAPTER  XI. 

Satisfaction  at  the  prospect  of  departure.  Observations  on  the  Isle  of  France. 
Influence  of  the  Jacobins.  A hurricane.  Sail  for  Europe.  Hail  an  American 
schooner.  Coast  of  Norway.  War  between  the  English  and  Danes.  Arrive  at 
Christiansand.  Leave  the  ship,  and  proceed  to  Copenhagen.  Arrival  there. 

A profitable  voyage.  Sketch  of  Copenhagen.  Obelisk.  Fredericksburg  pal- 
ace. Rosenberg  Palace.  Arrival  of  the  ship  from  Norway 11C 


CHAPTER  XII. 

Remarks.  Associated  with  Mr.  Shaler.  Leave  Copenhagen.  Arrive  at  Ham 
burgh.  Purchase  a vessel.  Decision  as  to  the  command.  Count  de  Rouissil- 
lon.  Peace  of  Amiens.  Discouraging  prospects.  Vessel  near  being  lost  in  the 
river.  Proceed  to  sea.  Arrive  at  Grand  Canaria.  Appearance  of  the  town. 

2* 


16 


CONTENTS. 


Departure.  Arrival  at  Rio  Janeiro.  An  assassination.  Convent  of  Bene- 
dictines. Bay  of  Rio.  Departure.  Cape  Horn.  Lose  a man.  Arrive  at  Val- 
paraiso   152 


CHAPTER  Xin. 

American  vessels  at  Valparaiso.  Permission  to  obtain  supplies.  Threat  of  the 
Captain-General.  Controversy  between  the  Governor  and  Captain  Rowan. 
Arrest  and  imprisonment  of  Americans.  Preparation  for  hostilities.  Anger  of 
the  Governor.  Determined  on  Vengeance.'  His  treachery.  Capture  of  the 
ship  Hazard.  Imprisonment  of  Rowan.  Correspondence  with  the  Captain- 
General.  Defer  our  departure.  Seizure  of  our  vessel.  Interrogatories.  Our 
vessel  restored  to  us.  Order  of  the  Captain-General  to  leave  the  port.  Propo- 
sition from  the  Collector.  Refused.  Return  of  the  actual  Governor.  Inter- 
view  and  civil  reception.  Departure 163 


CHAPTER  XIV. 

Arrive  at  the  Callipagos  Islands.  Transactions  there.  Departure.  Singular 
flaw  of  wind.  Arrival  at  San  Bias.  Visited  by  the  Commissary.  Agreement 
with  him.  Opposed  by  the  Governor.  Character  of  the  Governor.  Contro- 
versy between  the  Governor  and  Commissary.  Order  to  leave  San  Bias.  Ar- 
rangement with  Rouissillon.  He  leaves  us  for  Mexico.  Go  to  the  three  Maria 
Islands.  Embarrassment.  Letter  from  Rouissillon.  Death  of  the  Governor. 
Catch  a Sun  Fish.  Description  of  Three  Marias.  Return  again  to  San  Bias. 
Proposal  for  the  cargo.  Return  of  Rouissillon.  Sale  of  part  of  the  cargo.  Pur- 
chase sea-otter  skins.  Suspicion  of  treachery.  Take  final  leave  of  Rouissillon. 

His  character.  Death.  Again  anchor  at  the  Three  Marias.  Discover  a traitor 
in  the  mate.  Seize  his  papers.  Remarks  thereon 177 


CHAPTER  XV. 

Notice  of  San  Bias.  Domestic  Indians.  Circulation  of  revolutionary  papers. 

Sail  from  the  Three  Maria  Islands.  St.  Clement’s.  Indians.  Arrive  at  San 
Diego.  Commandant  Rodriguez  visits  the  ship.  Leaves  a guard  on  board.  A 
visit  to  the  fort.  Ship  Alexander.  Fail  in  purchasing  the  skins.  Detention  of 
our  men.  Rescue.  Disarm  the  guard  on  board.  Prepare  for  war.  Get  under 
sail  to  go  out.  Fire  of  the  fort.  Returned.  Pass  by  the  fort.  Put  the  guards 
on  shore.  Arrive  at  St.  Quintin’-*.  Visit  of  Missionaries.  Corporal’s  letter. 
Padre’s  opinion  of  Rodriguez.  L_ave  St.  Quintin’s.  Notice  of  it.  Guadaloupe. 

San  Borja.  Padre  Mariano  Apolonario.  His  character.  Procure  horses.  Our 
Farewell.  Arrive  at  St.  Joseph’s.  Obtain  supplies.  Sail  for  tl  e Sandwich 
Islands .' .192 


•COIN  TENTS 


'CHAPTER  XV!. 

Observations  on  leaving  the  coast.  California.  Sandwich  . slanus.  Visit  of  the 
king.  Land  the  horses.  Present  them  to  the  king.  His  estimation  of  them. 
Visit  Derby’s  grave.  Leave  the  Islands.  Sketch  of  Tarrjaahmaah.  Attempt 
at  his  conversion.  A practice  of  the  natives.  An  evidence  of  their  gallantry. 
Instances  of  atrocious  conduct,  of  Americans . Island  of  Guam.  A visit  from 
the  Governor’s  lady.  Sketch  of  the  Island.  A storm.  Arrival  at  Canton.  Dis- 
pose of  one  half  the  ship.  Mr.  Staler  returns  to  California,  and  I embark  in 
the  Alert  for  Boston . 203 


CHAPTER  XVH. 

Parting  with  Mr.  Shafer.  Origin  of  our  acquaintance.  Observations.  Embark 
for  Boston.  Touch  at  North  Island.  Pass  the  Isle  of  Bourbon.  Arrive,  at  the 
Cape  of  Good  Hope.  Reflections.  Departure  from  the  Cape  of  Good  Hope.  Ar- 
rival at  Boston.  Lelia  Byrd  sails  for  California.  Disaster.  Difficulty  of  mak- 
ing repairs.  Arrive  at  the  Sandwich  Islands.  Barter  with  the  king.  Place 
tlie  cargo  in  his  power.  His  honorable  conduct.  Expedite  the  Tamana.  Mr. 
Hudson.  His  voyage.  Return  and  death.  Lelia  Bvrd.  Apology  for  the  voyage.  217 


CHAPTER  XVIII. 

Cause  of  again  Voyaging.  Destination.  Suspicion  of  the  Quakers.  Sail  from 
New  York.  A Gale.  Dismasted.  Arrive  at  Kio  Janeiro.  The  Visit.  Allow- 
ed Forty-five  days  to  repair.  Rig  the  vessel  as  a Brig.  Obstacles  to  Changing 
the  voyage.  Obviated.  Dispose  of  the  Cargo.  Buy  a Ship  and  Cargo  of  Beef. 
Despatch  the  Aspasia  by  the  Mate.  Go  to  St.  Catharine’s  in  the  Ship.  De- 
scription. Sail  for  Havana.  Boarded  twice.  Cochrane’s  Fleet.  Boarding  Offi- 
cer. A contrast  to  his  Commander.  Ordered  for  Tortola.  Taken  Possession 
of  by  the  Cerberus  Frigate 22-4 


CHAPTER  XIX. 

Admiral  Cochrane.  Ilis  Notarietv.  Officers  of  the  Cerberus.  Theme  of  Con- 
versation. Arrival  at  Tortola.  Dougan,  the  Prize  agent.  His  Threat  to  the 
Judge.  Vice  Admiralty  Court.  Condemnation.  Cause  therefor.  Proposal 
from  the  Agent.  Proceed  to  St.  Thomas.  Wrecked.  Arrive  in  the  Boat.  Ef- 
fect on  the  Owners.  Fail  in  my  Object.  Return.  Embark  again  for  St. 
Thomas.  Hence  to  New  York.  Arrival.  Interview  with  a Friend.  Extent  of 
my  Misfortune.  Arrive  at  Home Ill 


CONTENTS. 


90 

CHAPTER  XX. 

English  Aggression.  Embargo.  Voyage  to  At  Hca.  To  Halifax  and  to  Europe. 
Arrive  in  the  Clyde.  Proceed  to  London.  Project  a Voyage  to  the  Isle  of 
France.  Defeated.  Illness  at  Exeter.  Recover.  Go  to  Holland.  Lade  a Ship 
for  New  York.  Take  Charge  of  Despatches  for  the  United  States.  Arrival  at 
Baltimore 210 


CHAPTER  XXL 

Necessity  for  seeking  a milder  Climate.  Sail  for  Naples.  Arrival  there.  Con- 
fiscation. Rome  visited.  Ship  Margaret.  Refused  a Passage  in  her.  Disap- 
pointment. Her  Loss.  Buy  the  Nancy  Ann.  Sail  with  a License.  Boarded 
by  an  English  Brig  of  War.  Wrath  of  the  Captain.  Arrive  at  Lisbon.  Sell 
my  Wine  there.  Embargo.  Raised  on  the  Retreat  of  Massena.  Sail  for  Eng- 
land. Arrive  at  Plymouth.  Narrow  Escape  from  Shipwreck.  Standgate 
Creek.  Arrive  at  London.  Termination  of  my  Charge 260 

CHAPTER  XXII. 

Buy  a Vessel  and  Cargo.  Sail  for  Copenhagen.  Wrecked  on  Jutland.  Save  the 
Cargo.  Honest  Character  of  the  People.  Arrive  at  Copenhagen.  Sent  an 
Agent  to  take  Charge  of  the  Cargo.  French  Privateer  at  Elsineur.  Go  to  Ri- 
ga and  back.  Import  a Cargo  from  London.  Seized  at  Copenhagen.  Releas- 
ed too  late.  Frozen  up.  Proceed  to  Hamburgh.  Bombardment.  Capitulation. 
General  Hogendorf.  His  Civility.  Proceed  to  Paris.  To  Nantz.  To  Bordeaux. 

• Embark  in  a Clipper.  Pass  through  an  English  Fleet  of  Merchantmen.  Their 
Dismay.  Often  chased,  particularly  on  our  own  Coast.  Great  Superiority  of 
Sailing.  Arrive  at  New  York 207 


CHAPTER  XXIII. 

Invited  to  take  Charge  of  a Voyage  to  Tenerifie  and  Batavia.  Sail  from  Salem 
in  Ship  Exeter.  Dismasted.  Repair  the  Damages.  Arrive  at  Tenerifie.  Bad 
Roadstead  of  Orotava.  Quarantine.  Mr.  Little.  His  Hospitality  and  Benevo- 
lence. Sail  from  Orotava.  Cape  Verde  Islands.  Land  at  Tristan  d’Acunha. 
Procure  Fish  and  Potatoes.  Jonathan  Lambert.  Arrive  at,  and  sail  from,  the 
Cape  of  Good  Hope.  Island  of  Amsterdam.  Arrive  at  Batavia.  Governors. 

Mr.  Watt.  Lade  the  Ship  and  put  to  Sea.  Lose  two  Men.  Arrive  at  the  Isle 
of  France.  Exchange  Produce.  Sail  for  Home.  St.  Helena.  Warned  off. 
Finish  the  Voyage  by  arriving  at  Boston 2"7 

CHAPTER  XXIV. 

Preliminary  Remarks.  Departure  from  New  York.  Passing  Reflections.  Pas- 
sage to  Cape  de  Verde  Islands.  Tornado.  St.  Paul's  on  the  Equator.  Per- 
nambuco. Rio  de  la  Plata.  Cape  Horn.  Embayed.  Passage  of  the  Cape. 


COIfTETJ^S. 


21 


Land  on  the  Island  of  Mocha.  Arrival  at  Talcahuana.  Visit  of  the  Authori- 
ties. Sketch  of  them.  A Guaid  sent  on  Board.  Gur  Men  taken  away.  Pro- 
hibition of  Communication  with  our  Countrymen  of  the  Canton.  ....  ...  284 


CHAPTER  XXV. 

Sails  unbent.  Interchange  of  Letters  with  the  Governor.  Unfortunate  Selection 
of  a Port.  Situation  of  the  Royal  and  Patriot  Forces.  Visit  from  the  Authori- 
ties. Sketch  of  them.  Their  Object  and  Determination.  Hopeless  Case. 
Some  Resources.  . ...... 291 


CHAPTER  XXVI. 

Examination  by  the  Assessor.  Liberty  to  go  on  Shore.  Escape  to  the  Enemy 
of  the  Beaver’s  Men.  Indignation  of  the  Populace.  Annoyanoe  of  Sentries. 
Arrival  of  the  Venganza.  Put  the  Guard  to  Sleep.  Answer  the  Watchword. 
Plan  of  taking  the  Frigate.  Consequenoes.  Sounding  the  Men.  Day  appoint 
ed.  Disappointed . 296 


CHAPTER  XXVII. 

Attack  of  Fever.  Assault  on  the  Town.  Repulse.  Condemnation  of  the  Ship 
and  Cargo.  Appeal.  Patriots  set  Fire  to  and  abandon  Conception.  Arrival 
of  Osorio,  with  Four  Thousand  Men.  Pursue  the  Patriots.  Battle  of  Talca. 
Desperate  State  of  the  Patriot  Cause.  Battle  of  Maipo.  Ruin  of  the  Royal 
Army.  Return  to  Osorio.  Distress  of  the  People.  Ships  ordered  to  be  ready. 
Removed  from  the  Beaver. 303 


CHAPTER  XXVm. 

Arrival  of  the  Esmeralda.  Her  Escape  from  capture.  A Ship  from  Lima.  An 
Order  from  the  Viceroy  for  us  to  be  sent  there.  Brig  Canton  prepared.  Sailed 
on  the  12th  of  May.  Arrival  at  Callao.  Interview  with  the  Viceroy  of  Peru. 
Result.  Take  a House  at  Lima.  Visit  the  Offioers  of  Government.  Encour- 
agement of  Eventual  Success 3 1C 


CHAPTER  XXIX. 

Arrival  of  the  Ontario.  Threat  of  the  Viceroy  to  send  me  away.  His  Change  of 
Opinion.  Promise  of  Protection.  Plan  a Voyage  to  Valparaiso.  Engage  a 
Ship.  Engagement  broken.  Disappointment.  Embark  for  Valparaiso  in  the 
Andromache.  Captain  Sheriffe,  Officers,  and  Crew.  Observance  of  the  Sab 
bath.  Recreation.  Masafuera.  Juan  Fernandez.  Arrival 321 


22 


CONTENTS. 


CHATTER  XXX. 

Visit  to  the  Governor.  Difference  in  effect  of  old  and  new  Government.  Tariff. 
Mistaken  policy.  Meet  some  of  the  Beaver’s  men.  Ex  pectation  of  arrival  of 
Supreme  Director.  Rejoicing  on  his arrival.  Meet  with  Ribas.  Introduced  to 
the  Supreme  Director.  Proposal  to  enter  the  service.  Charter  a Brig.  Em- 
bargo. Journey  to  Santiago.  Cuesta  de  Prado.  Maipo.  Sketch  of  the  City. 
Return  to  Valparaiso  338 


CHAPTER  XXXI. 

Sail  for.  Callao.  Arrival.  Revocation  of  the  Decree  of  Condemnation.  Over- 
tures to  buy  the  Ship.  Take  possession  of  the  Beaver.  Obligation  to  Captain 
Biddle.  Livonia.  Obligation  to  Captain  Sheriffe.  Embargo.  Blossom,  Eng- 
lish vessel  of  War.  Judge  Provost.  His  bad  odor  with  the  Viceroy.  Diffi- 
culty of  procuring  men.  Obviated  by  prisoners.  Capture  of  Isabella.  Ex- 
pectation: of  the  Chilian  Fleet.  Remove  the  Beaver  below  the  Fleet.  Ready 
for  sea 336 

CHAPTER  XXXn. 

Embargo  raised.  Arrival  of  the  Chilian  Fleet.  Cannonading-  with  the  Batteries. 
Useless  result.  Removal  of  the  Beaver.  Disposition  of  the  crew  to  desert. 
Visit  the  Viceroy.  Obtain  a License.  Chilian  proclamation  of  Blockade.  Visit 
Lord  Cochrane’s  Ship.  Insolence  of  her  Captain.  Sail  for  Pisco.  Arrival 
there.  Jlutiuy  of  the- Crew.  Suppressed.  Sail  for  Guanchaca 343 


CHAPTER  XXXIIT. 

Pisco.  Arrival  at  Guanchaca.  Alarm  at  Truxillo.  Unlading  and'  reladlng.  Gal- 
varino.  Men  detained  on  shore.  Suspicion  of  our  good  faith.  Proceed  to  Mal- 
abrigo.  Lose  two  anchors.  Proceed  to  Pacasmayo.  Finish  loading.  Sail  for 
Callao.  Touch  at  Guacho.  Hear  of  the  Blockade- being  raised.  Arrival  at 
Callao.  Sketches  of  Truxillo,  Guanchaca.,.  Malabrigo,  Pacasmayo.  Satisfac- 
tion given  the  Viceroy.  Discharge  the  Cargo.  Proceed  to  Pisco.  Lade  with 
Brandy.  Return  to  Callao.  Disappearance- of  the-  Volador 353 


CHAPTER  XXXIV. 

Suspected  of  sinking  the  Volador.  Crew  of  the  Beaver  examined.  Sell  the 
Cargo.  Charter  the  Ship.  Sail  for  Guacho.  Arrival  of  the-  Chilian  Fleet. 
Guacho  and  its  manufactures.  Sail  for  La  Barranca.  Stupid  Pilot.  Return 
to  Guacha.  Sail  for  Samanco  Bay.  Observations  thereon.  Bad  calculation 
of  the  Charterer.  Commandante  and  his  daughters.  Arrival  at  Pacasmayo.- 
Sail  for  Chili.  Boarded  by  the  San  Martin.  Arrival  at  Valparaiso. ......  362 


CONTENTS. 


23 


CHAPTER  XXXV. 

Competition  at  Valparaiso.  Purchase  the  Ship  Ocean.  Sail  for  Lima.  Arrival. 
Completion  of  the  Charter.  Drottinger  and  Ocean  sail  for  Guayaquil.  Zephyr 
for  Pacasmayo.  Beaver  for  Guayaquil.  Sketch  of  Lima.  Arrival  at  Payta. 
Observations.  Arrival  at  Guayaquil.  Controversy  with  the  Governor.  Lade 
the  Ships.  Sail  for  Callao.  Arrival  there.  Governor  of  Guayaquil  superse- 
ded. Sketch  of  Guayaquil 371 

CHAPTER  XXXVI. 

Arrive  at  Callao.  Repair  the  Ship.  Sail  for  Rio  Janeiro.  Retrospective  Reflec- 
tions. Receive  a letter  from  the  Owners.  Remarks  thereon.  Reply.  Arrival 
at  Rio  Janeiro.  Customhouse  Officer.  Sail  from  Rio  Janeiro.  Happy  Ship’s 
Company.  Arrive  at  New  York.  Letter  to  the  President  of  the  National  In- 
surance Company.  Reception  by  that  Officer.  Remark  of  a Merchant  on  the 
Voyage 380 


CHAPTER  XXXVH. 

Visit  my  family  in  Massachusetts.  Return  to  New  York.  Owners  object  to  my 
Commission.  Left  to  Arbitrators.  Deduct  therefrom  two  and  a half  per  cent. 
Disappointed  in  promised  remuneration.  Letter  to  the  President.  No  reply. 
Comparison  of  this  Company  with  others.  Not  attributable  to  the  President. 
Observations  on  Corporations.  Close  of  my  Voyaging.  Remarkable  fact  as 
respects  loss  of  men  and  Sickness.  Loss  of  Property.  Don  Pedro  Abadia. 
Don  Jose  Arismendi.  Proceed  to  Hamburgh.  Return.  Letter  to  Abadia. 
Proceed  to  Bordeaux  and  Madrid.  Interview  with  Arismendi.  Viceroy.  Re- 
turn via  Paris  and  Havre.  Arismendi  in  Boston.  Imprisoned.  Escape  by  the 
aid  of  a Merchant.  His  cunning.  Proceed  to  Havana.  Death  of  Mr.  Shaler. 


Effort  to  obtain  the  Consulate.  Disappointed.  Return  to  Boston 388 

CONCLUSION 401 


APPENDIX 


404 


NARRATIVE  OF  VOYAGES. 


CHAPTER  I. 


The  Cou  ating-House  — A Salem  Merchant  — His  Ships  and  Masters  — Distant  Vov 
ages  — Their  Excitement. — My  First  Voyage  — Disgust  with  it  — Become  Haste* 
of  the  Enterprise  — Voyage  to  Bourbon. 


N the  ordinary  course  of  a commercial  education, 
in  New  England,  boys  are  transferred  from  school 
to  the  merchant’s  desk  at  the  age  of  fourteen  or 
fifteen.  When  I had  reached  my  fourteenth  year, 
it  was  my  good  fortune  to  be  received  into  the 
counting-house  of  Elias  Hasket  Derby,  Esq.  of 
Salem  ; a merchant,  who  may  justly  be  termed  the 
father  of  the  American  commerce  to  India  ; one 
whose  enterprise  and  commercial  sagacity  were  une- 
qualled in  his  day,  and,  perhaps,  have  not  been  surpassed 
-by  any  of  his  successors.  To  him  our  country  is 
indebted  for  opening  the  valuable  trade  to  Calcutta ; 
before  whose  fortress  his  was  the  first  vessel  to  display  the 
> American  flag  ; and,  following  up  the  business,  he  had  reaped 
golden  harvests  before  other  merchants  came  in  for  a share. 
The  first  American  ships,  seen  at  the  Cape  of  Good  Hope 
and  at  the  Isle  of  France,  belonged  to  him.  His  were  the  first 
American  ships  which  carried  cargoes  of  cotton  from  Bombay  to 
China ; and  among  the  first  ships  which  made  a direct  voyage  to 
' China  and  back,  was  one  owned  by  him.  He  continued  to  prosecute 
a successful  business,  on  an  extensive  scale,  in  those  countries, 
until  the  day  of  his  death.  In  the  transaction  of  his  affairs  abroad, 
he  was  liberal,  greatly  beyond  the  practice  in  modern  times,  always 
desirous  that  every  one,  even  the  foremost  hand,  should  share  the 


‘26 


FIRST  VOYAGE. 


good  fortune  to  which  he  pointed  the  way  ; and  the  long  list  of  masters 
of  ships,  who  have  acquired' ample  fortunes  in  his  employment,  is  a 
proof  both  of  his  discernment  in  selecting  and  of  his  generosity  in 
paying  them. 

Without  possessing  a scientific  knowledge  of  the  construction  and 
the  sparring  of  ships,  Mr.  Derby  seemed  to  have  an  intuitive  faculty 
in  judging  of  models  and  proportions ; and  his  experiments,  in 
several  instances,  for  the  attainment  of  swiftness  of  sailing,  were 
crowned  with  a success  unsurpassed  in  our  own  or  any  other  country. 
He  built  several  ships  for  the  India  trade,  immediately  in  the  vicinity 
of  the  counting-house  ; which  afforded  me  an  opportunity  of  becom- 
ing acquainted  with  the  building,  sparring,,  and  rigging  of  ships. 
The  conversations,  to  which  I listened,  relating  to  the  countries  then 
newly  visited  by  Americans,  the  excitement  on  the  return  of  an 
adventure  from  them,  and  the  great  profits  which  were  made,  always 
manifest  from  the  result  of  my  own  little  adventures,  tended  to  stimu- 
late the  desire  in  me  of  visiting  those  countries,  and  of  sharing  more 
largely  in  the  advantages  they  presented.  Consequently,  after  having 
passed  four  years  in  this  course  of  instruction,  I became  impatient 
to  begin  that  nautical  career  on  which  I had  determined,  as  presenting 
the  most  sure  and  direct  means  of  arriving  at  independence.  * 

The  force  of  prejudice,  in  defiance  of  common  sense  and  the  plain- 
est dictates  of  reason,  is  perhaps  in  no  case  more  frequently  exhibited 
than  in  the  pertinacity  with  which  old  seamen,  whose  nautical  course 
began  in  the  forecastle,  adhere  to  the  maxim,  that,  to  make  a good 
seaman,  “ it  is  requisite  one  should  enter  on  board  by  the  hawse-holes 
(or  forecastle),  and  not  by  the  cabin  windows.”  When  I began,  I 
was  aware  of  the  existence  of  this  maxim,  but  doubted  its  truth  ; as 
I could  not  comprehend  how  the  qualifications  for  command  were  to 
be ' acquired  by  living  in  the  forecastle  ; or  how  nautical  skill  was  to 
be  advanced  by  practising  the  duties  of  tarring  down  the  rigging,  and 
slushing  the  masts.  I therefore  had  no  ambition  of  attaining  to  a 
practical  knowledge  of  these  accomplishments.  I came  in  at  the 
cabin  windows ; but  with  an  understanding  that  I was  to  stand  watch 
regularly,  to  take  my  regular  turn  at  the  helm,  to  reef  and  hand  the 
sails,  die. ; and  I am  sure  it  will  be  admitted  that  there  was  no  time 
when  I flinched  from  the  performance  of  those  duties. 


GAPE  HAYTIEN. 


Having,  early  in  life,  imbibed  a predilection  for  nautical  affairs,  I 
had  ample  opportunity  of  indulging  it,  while  in  the  counting-house, 
of  a merchant  who  had  several  ships  built  and  equipped  in  the  im- 
mediate vicinity  of  my  place  of  employment.  I had  watched  the 
progress  ' and  manner  of  fitting  the  rigging  of  many  vessels,  and 
thereby  obtained  a better  knowledge  of  it  than  is  often  gained  by  many 
years’  service  in  the  forecastle.  On  the  sailing  or  the  arrival  of  our 
vessels,  I was  almost  always  on  board,  and  thence  acquired  a knowl- 
edge of  the  art  of  manoeuvring  a ship,  such  as  is  not  always  attained 
by  long  practice  at  sea.  With  such  practical  experience,  I embarked 
at  Salem,  on  my  first  voyage,  in  June,  1792,  on  board  of  the  brig 
Eose,  owned  by  Mr.  Derby,  and  commanded  by  my  early  friend  and 
school-mate,  Nathaniel  Silsbee,*  on  a voyage  to  Cape  Frangois,  now 
Cape  Haytien.  I entered  in  the  capacity  of  captain's  clerk  ; to  live 
with  him  in  the  cabin ; to  assist  him  in  his  business  in  port ; and  to  do 
duty  as  a foremast  hand  at  sea.  Nor  have  I,  after  my  long  course 
of  experience,  been  able  to  discover  any  way  so  desirable,  so  eligible 
as  this,  for  giving  a young  man  a practical  knowledge  of  seamanship, 
free  from  the  vulgarity  of  the  forecastle ; and  of  so  familiarizing 
him  with  the  manner  of  doing  business  in  various  countries,  as  to 
make  him  an  accomplished  super-cargo. 

Our  passage  being  made  in  the  height  of  summer,  — we  experien- 
ced a long  course  of  southerly  winds,  which  so  retarded  our  progress, 
that  nearly  forty  days  were  consumed  before  reaching  our  destined 
port ; and  there  was  scarcely  a day  of  this  long  passage  that  I was 
not  more  or  less  sea-sick.  I remember  only  one  incident  to  vary  the 
monotonous  scene  on  this  tedious  passage  ; and  this  was  of  a descrip- 
tion that  will  never  be  obliterated  from  my  memory.  We  were  one 
day  lying  perfectly  becalmed  near  the  tropic,  — the  water  so  smooth 
as  to  reflect  every  object,  like  a mirror,  — the  heat  intense  ; the  vessel 
lying  like  a log,  with  scarcely  any  perceptible  motion.  At  this  time, 
though  not  unconscious  of  danger,  I could  not  resist  the  inclination 
of  taking  a plunge  into  the  ocean.  I had  not,  however,  been  swim- 
ming more  than  five  minutes,  before  the  men  on  board  perceived  a 
shark  'coming  quickly  towards  the  vessel.  The  necessity  for  caution, 

* Since  President  of  the  Senate  of  Massachusetts,  and  for  several  years  a Senator 
ef  the  United  States. 


28 


FIRST  VOYAGE. 


so  as  not  to  alarm  me,  was  obvious  ; and  Captain  Silsbee,  being  for- 
tunately on  deck,  with  great  presence  of  mind  dropped  bis  hat  over- 
board, and  called  to  me  to  come  quickly  and  pick  it  up  before  it  filled 
with  water.  I did  so,  and  had  scarcely  got  out  of  the  water  with  the 
hat  in  my  hand,  when  I saw,  within  a few  feet  of  me,  a snark  of 
enormous  size ; indeed  in  all  my  extensive  navigation  since,  I have 
seen  none  that  would  bear  any  comparison  with  it.  As  he  came 
fearlessly  close  alongside  the  vessel,  one  of  the  seamen  got  ready  a 
harpoon  to  throw  into  him,  but  was  forbidden  so  to  do,  from  the  cer- 
tainty of  losing  it. 

Arriving  safely  at  Cape  Francois,  the  bay  presented  a scene  of 
commercial  activity,  such  as  I had  never  seen  equalled.  The  throng 
of  boats  by  which  we  were  instantly  surrounded,  to  sell  us  the  variety 
of  strange  fruits  with  which  they  were  laden  ; — the  number  ofi  large 
ships  in  port,  some  loading,  others  unloading;  — the  daily  arrival  and 
departure  of  vessels  of  all  nations;  — the  French  slavers  continually 
coming  in  from  Africa,  with  a crowd  of  blacks  on  their  decks  ; — the 
fine  ships  of  war  in  beautiful  order  ; and  the  multitude  of  boats 
passing  to  and  fro,  across  the  bay  ; — formed,  altogether,  a scene 
surpassingly  animated  and  brilliant,  to  one  whose  eye  had  never  before 
met  any  thing  of  the  kind,  exceeding  the  ordinary  exhibition  of  ves- 
sels in  Salem  harbor.  The  activity  and  bustle  of  business  on  shore 
seemed  to  be  even  greater  than  that  in  the  bay;  and  the  magnificent 
stores,  filled  with  every  description  of  merchandise,  gave  indications 
of  the  riches  and  business  of  the  place  ; while  the  long  range  of  stalls 
on  the  border  of  the  bay,  for  the  retail  of  all  kinds  of  French  knick- 
knacks,  gave  employment  and  a living  to  a great  number  of  the  col- 
ored population.  The  insurrection  of  the  negroes,  however,  had,  at 
this  time,  made  some  progress ; and  only  a short  period  elapsed 
before  these  riches  “ took  to  themselves  wings,”  and  the  whole  white 
population  of  the  colony  was  involved  in  one  promiscuous  state  of 
ruin. 

Having  disposed  of  our  outward  cargo,  and  reladen  with  another, 
the  produce  of  the  island,  we  were  wafted  to  sea  by  the  land  breeze, 
very  early  on  a morning  in  the  latter  part  of  August,  and,  after  a 
fair  passage,  arrived  in  safety  at  Salem,  in  September,  1792  ; — thus, 
o my  great  joy,  accomplishing  my  first  voyage  ; and  experiencing  a 


PORT  PRAYA. 


29 


relief  from  the  nausea,  occasioned  by  the  wearisome  rolling  and  bad 
odor  of  the  vessel,  which  is  probably  not  unusual,  and  will  be  duly 
appreciated  by  those  who  make  their  first  passages  at  sea. 

The  distress  from  sea-sickness,  and  its  consequent  prostration  of 
spirits,  were  such  as  to  make  it  desirable  to  seek  some  other  road  to 
fortune.  But  I possessed  no  capital  with  which  to  bring  my  com- 
mercial acquirements  into  action  ; and  a merchant  without  capita) 
was  as  incapable  of  making  head-way,  as  a mechanic  without  tools. 
There  remained  to  me,  therefore,  only  the  choice  of  persevering  in 
the  profession  I had  chosen,  with  a prospect  of  independence  ; or  of 
earning  a maintenance  as  a clerk  or  book-keeper,  with  no  chance  of 
ever  being  any  thing  else.  Had  the  disagreeable  circumstances 
attending  a sea-life  been  even  greater  than  they  were,  I should  have 
had  no  hesitancy  in  the  choice,  and  I therefore  engaged  to  go  out 
again  with  Captain  Silsbee,  in  the  same  capacity  as  before,  in  a new 
ship  of  Mr.  Derby’s,  then  ready  to  be  launched.  This  ship,  of  about 
one  hundred  and  ninety  tons’  burden,  was  called  the  Benjamin,  and 
was  destined  for  the  Isle  of  France  and  the  East  Indies. 

In  the  prosecution  of  this  voyage,  we  left  Salem  harbor  on  the  11th 
of  December,  1792. 

During  the  first  week  after  our  departure,  we  had  a gale  of  wind 
from  north-northwest,  and  northwest,  which  compelled  us  to  take  in 
the  topsails,  and  to  keep  the  ship  scudding  before  the  wind  and  sea, 
under  the  foresail.  As  we  passed  over  George’s  Bank  the  sea  was 
tremendous ; sweeping  from  our  decks  several  hogsheads  of  water 
and  two  casks  of  merchandise,  and  threatening  us  with  the  loss  of 
boats  and  caboose.  The  men  suffered  exceedingly,  during  the  first 
three  days,  from  incessant  exposure  to  cold  and  wet.  Such  entire 
absence,  for  the  time,  of  any  approximation  to  comfort,  I have  never 
witnessed  sincqf  The  cook,  a black  man,  either  from  heedlessness, 
or  from  ignorance  how  to  take  care  of  himself,  had  his  feet  so  badly 
frozen  that  it  was  found  necessary  to  amputate  his  toes,  — which 
was  done  with  a penknife  by  the  second  mate  ; who  then  dressed  the 
vvounds  to  the  best  of  his  ability. 

About  six  weeks  after  this  occurrence  (26th  January)  we  arrived 
at  Port  Praya,  St.  Jago,  to  which  place  we  had  proceeded  for  the  pur- 
pose either  of  leaving  the  cook  there,  or  of  procuring  such  surgical 
3* 


30 


FIRST  VOYAGE. 


and  medical  aid  as  was  needed  for  his  recovery.  Fortunately,  we 
found  lying  there  H.  B.  Majesty’s  ship  Scorpion.  The  surgeon  of 
this  ship,  being  immediately  sent  for,  came  with  alacrity,  and  exam- 
ined and  dressed  the  poor  fellow’s  feet.  He  left  salves  and  medicines; 
with  directions  how  to  use  them  ; and,  with  characteristic  generosity,, 
efused  any  compensation.  To  the  fortunate  circumstance  of  re- 
ceiving this  very  opportune  aid,  the  poor  cook  was  indebted  for  a 
speedy  cure,  if  not  for  bis  life.  Having  filled  our  water-casks,  and 
procured  the  requisite  supply  of  vegetables,  we  sailed  the  next  day 
for  the  Cape  of  Good  Hope.  The  long  calms  we  experienced  on  the 
equator,  and  the  foulness  incident  to  a wooden-bottomed  ship,  retarded 
our  progress,  so  that  we  did  not  arrive  at  Table  Bay  till  the  10th  of 
April. 

The  exhaustion  of  our  stores,  consequent  on  a four  months’  pas- 
sage, would  have  rendered  an  arrival  at  any  civilized  place  a pleasing 
event.  But,  at  the  Cape  of  Good  Hope,  where  fresh  provisions  and 
vegetables  of  good  quality,  and  delicious  grapes  and  other  fruits, 
were  to  be  obtained  in  abundance,  the  pleasure  of  our  arrival  was 
increased  to  a degree  to  leave  a lasting  impression  on  my  mind. 

A pai’t  of  our  cargo  was  disposed  of  at  the  Cape  ; and  its  place 
filled  up  with  such  produce  of  the  country  as  it  was  supposed  would 
yield  the  most  profit  at  the  Isle  of  France.  Our  business  being  accom- 
plished, we  sailed  from  the  Cape  on  the  23d  of  April.  On  the  suc- 
ceeding night  we  experienced  a gale,  which  obliged  us  to  heave  to, 
under  foresail  and  mizzen  staysail.  At  this  time  the  ship  was  labor- 
ing and  straining  so  much,  that  it  was  deemed  expedient  to  throw 
over  the  deck  load,  which  afforded  perceptible  relief.  Proceeding 
on  our  course,  no  event  worthy  of  notice  occurred  till  the  26th  of 
May,  when  we  fell  in  with  the  French  frigate,  La  Prudente,  bound  to 
the  Isle  of  France,  and  conveying  the  news  of  a declaration  of  war 
by  England  against  France.  On  the  6th  of  June  we  arrived,  and 
came  to  anchor  at  Port  Louis,  Isle  of  France. 

The  news  of  the  war  with  England  greatly  enhanced  the  value  of 
our  cargo ; and  the  prospect  was  flattering  for  making  a great  voy- 
age, if  left  unmolested  to  pursue  our  business.  But  the  disorders 
incident  to  the  Revolution  had  reached  this  island  ; and  the  discord 
existing  between  the  admiral  in  command  of  the  naval  force,  and  the 


ISLE  OF  BOURBON. 


33 


government  on  shore,  was  an  epitome  of  that  then  existing  in  France, 
between  the  parties  who  were  straggling  for  the  ascendency.  \ ice- 
admiral  St.  Felix  refused  obedience  to  the  dictation  of  the  Jacobin 
government ; and  for  such  refusal,  — like  the  unfortunate  Macnamara, 
— he  would  have  been  cut  to  pieces,  had  he  ventured  to  come  on 
shore.  Aware  of  this,  he  took  care  never  to  put  himself  into  their 
power ; but  his  long  residence  on  ship-board,  and  consequent  depri- 
vation of  the  salutary  effects  of  occasionally  visiting  the  shore,  had 
the  usual  result  in  such  cases,  producing  scurvy.  But  however  much 
the  authorities  were  at  variance  with  each  other,  they  agreed  in  one 
thing,  the  detention  of  all  the  American  vessels  in  port,  till  the  arri- 
val of  news  from  France,  such  as  should  dispel  the  existing  doubt,  then 
very  prevalent,  of  America’s  taking  sides  with  England  against  France. 

In  the  mean  time,  all  the  ships  being  sheathed  with  wood,  the  worms 
were  making  such  havoc,  that  a long  detention  would  be  scarcely  less 
disastrous  than  confiscation.  There  is  probably  no  place  in  the  world 
surpassing  Port  North-West,  now  so  called,  for  the  destructive  power 
of  the  worm.  On  going  into  the  hold  of  the  ship,  when  empty,  I 
was  astonished  at  the  noise  they  made ; not  unlike  a multitude  of 
borers  with  augers  ; but  fortunately,  when  they  have  pierced  the 
sheathing,  their  further  progress  is  arrested  by  the  hair  which  is  plac- 
ed between  the  sheathing  and  the  bottom  of  the  ship. 

On  the  6th  of  July,  several  American  ships  being  ready  for  sea, 
their  masters  went  together  on  board  of  the  Admiral’s  ship,  and  had 
an  interview  with  him  on  the  subject  of  obtaining  leave  to  sail  ; but 
this  he  refused  them,  on  the  plea  of  its  endangering  the  safety  of 
some  merchant  ships  then  on  the  point  of  sailing  for  France.  A 
second  application  was  made  on  the  31st  of  July,  with  a like  result ; 
nor  was  it  till  the  arrival  of  the  American  ship  Pigou,  with  French 
passengers,  direct  from  Bordeaux,  on  the  20th  of  November,  that  the 
authorities  were  satisfied  that  . America  would  maintain  a neutral  posi- 
tion, and,  as  a consequence,  were  willing  to  raise  the  embargo. 

Being  thus  relieved  from  a painful  state  of  anxiety,  and  from  an 
embargo  of  nearly  six  months’  duration,  we  sailed  from  the  Isle  of 
France  on  the  25th  of  November,  being  only  partly  laden  ; and  pro- 
ceeded to  the  Isle  of  Bourbon  to  take  on  board  a quantity  of  coffee 
already  prepared  for  us.  Plaving  anchored  at  St.  Dennis,  and 


32 


FIRST  VOYAGE. 


taken  on  board  a part,  we  proceeded  to  St.  Benoit,  and  took 
in  the  remainder.  The  anchorage  at  this  latter  place  is  so  bad  that 
it  is  rare  that  any  other  than  small  coasting  vessels  attempt  to  load 
there.  We  came  to  in  fifty  fathoms,  the  cable  being  nearly  up  and 
down.  The  Benjamin  was  the  first  foreign  vessel  that  had  ever  an- 
chored in  that  port ; and  having  fine  weather  and  a very  smooth  sea, 
and  receiving  every  facility  from  the  agent  on  shore,  we  succeeded 
in  the  accomplishment  of  our  object,  after  remaining  four  days  at  this 
dangerous  anchorage.  We  then  sailed,  on  the  7th  of  December,  for 
the  Gape  of  Good  Hope,  touching  again  at  St.  Dennis  for  the  settle- 
ment of  accounts,  which  caused  a detention  of  a few  hours  only. 

Our  passage  from  St.  Dennis  to  the  Cape  of  Good  Hope  was  at- 
tended with  no  circumstance  worthy  of  note.  It  was  performed  in 
about  hirty  days,  and  we  arrived  there  on  the  4th  of  January,  1794. 
A feu  days  afterwards,  the  ship  Henry  arrived  from  the  Isle  of 
Bourbon,  only  partially  laden ; and  on  the  same  day  the  brig  Hope 
arrived  from  Salem.  Such  a coincidence  was  not  lost  on  the  enter- 
prising mind  of  Captain  Silsbee,  who,  seizing  the  advantage  present- 
ed by  it,  determined  on  returning  to  the  Isle  of  France  with  a cargo 
of  Cape  produce,  which  was  greatly  wanted  there  ; and  on  freighting 
home,  in  the  above  vessels,  the  cargo  then  on  board.  Having  made 
arrangements  for  carrying  this  plan  into  execution,  he  caused  to  be 
shipped  in  these  vessels,  to  the  owner  in  Salem,  such  portion  of  the 
cargo  from  the  Isle  of  France  as  would  considerably  more  than  pay 
for  the  cost  of  our  ship  and  of  her  whole  outward  freight ; and  the 
proceeds  of  the  remainder,  beyond  what  was  put  on  board  the  Henry 
and  the  Hope,  were  invested  in  wines  and  other  articles  suited  to  the 
market  of  the  Isle  of  France. 

A few  days  before  the  completion  of  our  business  at  the  Cape,  the 
British  frigate  Diomede  anchored  in  the  bay  ; which  was  rather  an 
alarming  incident,  as  at  that  period  the  thirst  for  plunder  among  the 
officers  of  the  British  navy,  and  their  consequent  annoyance  of  neu- 
trals, were  very  great.  It  was  soon  afterwards  rumored  that  they 
had  information  of  our  intention  of  going  to  the  Isle  of  France,  and 
meant  to  prevent  it ; although  we  had  not  violated  any  known  law  or 
regulation  of  the  place,  or  compromised  any  of  the  rights  of  neu- 
trals, nor  was  the  island  blockaded.  Our  exertions,  therefore,  were 


ISLE  OF  FRANCE. 


33 


unremitting  to  be  off  with  the  least  possible  delay.  Accordingly,  be- 
ing ready  for  sea,  we  went  on  board  in  the  afternoon  of  the  4th  of 
February,  in  a strong  southeaster,  and  with  a prospect  of  its  increase. 
We  had  been  on  board  but  a short  time  before  we  saw  a boat  put  off 
from  the  Diomede,  and  row  towards  us.  If  it  had  been  their  intern 
tion  to  board  us,  as  we  supposed  to  be  the  case,  they  were  unable  to 
do  so,  from  the  violence  of  the  wind,  and  they  landed  about  a mile  to 
leeward.  As,  in  going  out  of  the  bay,  we  should  be  obliged  to  pass 
by  the  Diomede,  we  waited  till  after  dark  for  this  purpose.  In  the 
mean  time  the  gale  had  increased  to  such  a degree,  that,  when  we 
attempted  to  heave  ahead,  we  found  it  to  be  entirely  impossible,  and, 
as  the  only  alternative,  we  slipped  our  cables,  hoisted  the  fore-topmast 
staysail,  and  were  soon  at  sea,  out  of  the  reach  of  molestation. 

Arriving  safely  at  the  Isle  of  France  on  the  13th  of  March,  our 
cargo  was  disposed  of  immediately,  to  great  advantage.  The  ship 
was  again  loaded  with  a cargo  of  the  produce  of  the  island,  and  we 
sailed  for  home  on  the  8th  of  April  ; having  been  only  twenty-six 
days  in  selling  and  delivering  one  cargo,  purchasing  and  lading 
another,  and  getting  off.  Here,  again,  we  had  to  leave  rather  abrupt- 
ly, and  a day  or  two  sooner  than  had  been  contemplated,  in  conse- 
quence of  information,  which  was  received  on  a Sunday  morning 
that  at  a meeting,  the  preceding  evening,  of  the  Jacobin  club  (which 
then  governed  the  place),  it  had  been  decreed  that  an  embargo 
should  be  laid,  on  Monday  morning,  on  all  the  foreign  vessels  then  in 
port.  Having  previously,  as  has  been  seen,  suffered  here  from  a six 
months’  embargo,  it  was  determined,  if  possible,  to  escape  another 
such  detention,  even  at  some  hazard. 

In  pursuance  of  this  determination,  a number  of  sailors  were  hired, 
and  brought  on  board ; one  of  the  pilots  of  the  port,  who  was  an  in- 
fluential member  of  the  Jacobin  club,,  was,  by  means  of  an  exorbi- 
tant price  for  his  services,  and  by  a little  stratagem  which  was  ac- 
quiesced in  by  him,  prevailed  upon  to  be  on  board  the  ship,  and  to 
conduct  her  out  of  port;  the  ship’s  papers  were  procured  from  the 
Bureau  of  the  government  by  an  officer  of  the  port,  for  which  he 
was  rewarded  by  a free  passage  to  Salem  ; and  all  other  preparations 
being  made,  — as  soon  as  the  port  bells  rang  to  call  the  populace  to 
dinner,  the  three  topsails,  with  the  jib  and  spanker-,  were  hastily  bent. 


34 


FIRST  VOYAGE. 


the  cables  slipped,  and  the  ship  put  to  sea  before  their  return,  — the 
long  boat  being  given  to  the  hired  sailors,  to  convey  themselves  and 
the  pilot  on  shore.  Not  having  a sufficiency  of  provisions  on  board 
for  a passage  to  America,  no  other  alternative  was  left  us  but  to  stop 
at  the  Isle  of  Bourbon  ; accordingly,  with  only  one  anchor  and  one 
cable  left,  we  anchored  the  next  day  in  the  roads  of  St.  Dennis. 
The  account  of  the  transactions  here  I copy  from  Captain  Silsbee’s 
notes. — 

“ On  landing  at  St.  Dennis,  I called  on  the  Governor  of.  the  island 
(whose  residence  was  immediately  contiguous  to  the  wharf,  and  who 
was  one  of  the  old  Royalists),  as  was  usual,  though  not  obligatory  ; 
and,  immediately  after  leaving  him,  devoted  myself  exclusively  to 
the  procurement  of  such  provisions  as  I could  find,  and  the  addition 
of  a few  bags  of  coffee  to  the  cargo  ; which  business  was  not  ac- 
complished until  towards  night, — when,  just  as  I was  stepping  from 
the  wharf  into  my  boat,  with  a determination  to  be  at  sea  before 
morning,  the  Governor  ordered  me  to  his  presence ; which  order  I 
obeyed  from  necessity,  and  with  strong  apprehension  that  some  re- 
straint was  to  be  imposed  on  me.  On  meeting  the  Governor,  he  ask- 
ed, — ‘ IIow  long  do  you  contemplate  staying  at  Bourbon  ? ’ My  an- 
swer was,  ‘ No  longer  than  is  necessary  to  complete  my  business.’ 
He  added, — ‘ Can’t  you  leave  here  to-night  ? ’ I replied,  ‘ I can  do 
so,  if  you  wish  it.’  He  then  said  to  me,  ‘ As  you  had  the  politeness 
to  call  on  me  this  morning,  and  as  1 should  be  sorry  to  see  you  injur- 
ed, hearken  to  my  advice,  and  leave  here  to-night,  if  practicable.’  I 
thanked  the  Governor  for  his  advice,  and  was  on  my  way  towards  my 
boat,  when  he  called  me  back  and  said.  ‘ Let  no  one  know  what  I 
have  said  to  you.’  I was  in  my  boat  and  on  board  the  ship  as  soon 
as  possible  after  leaving  the  Governor.  There  was  a brig  of  war  at 
anchor  in  the  roads,  a little  to  windward  of  our  ship.  Towards  mid- 
night I caused  the  anchor  to  be  hove  up  without  noise,  and  let  the  ship 
drift  to  leeward  (the  wind  and  current  being  favorable),  without  mak- 
ing sail,  until  from  the  darkness  of  the  night  we  had  lost  sight  of 
the  brig  ; when  we  made  all  sail  directly  from  the  land.  At  daylight 
in  the  morning,  the  brig  was  out,  and  in  pursuit  of  us ; but,  in  the 
course  of  the  day,  gave  up  the  chase. 

I i.ever  knew  the  cause  of  the  Governor’s  advice,  but  attributed 


RETURN  HOME. 


35 

it  to  an  apprehension,  on  his  part,  that  my  stopping  at  Bourbon  might 
he  supposed  by  the  populace  to  be  for  the  purpose  of  taking  off  the 
French  admiral  St.  Felix  (another  of  the  old  Royalists),  who  had 
rendered  himself  obnoxious  to  them,  and  who  was  known  to  be  then 
secreted  somewhere  on  the  island  ; and  that  this  suspicion  might 
compel  him  (the  Governor)  to  cause  the  detention  and  perhaps  the 
seizure  of  my  ship,  if  I remained  there  until  the  next  day.” 

Whatever  might  have  been  the  Governor’s  motive,  we  could  per- 
ceive in  his  advice  only  a disinterested  and  friendly  act  towards  us  ; 
by  means  of  which  mischief  was  probably  averted.  Pursuing  our 
course  to  the  westward,  we  struck  soundings  in  sixty-five  fathoms  on 
L’Agulhas  Bank,  the  4th  of  May  ; passed  the  Cape  of  Good  Hope 
the  next  day,  and  on  the  30th  came  to  anchor  at  the  Island  of  As- 
cension. The  time  we  passed  here  in  fishing,  catching  turtle,  shoot- 
ing wild  goats,  and  rambling  about  the  island,  formed  a pleasing  and 
healthy  interlude  to  the  monotony  of  our  voyage.  Having  obtained 
a good  supply  of  all  such  refreshments  as  the  island  afforded,  we  left 
it  on  the  first  of  June,  and,  after  a very  pleasant  passage,  anchored 
in  Salem  harbor  on  the  tenth  of  July:  having  been  absent  nineteen 
months  ; and  having  the  satisfaction  of  returning  all  our  men,  in 
health,  to  their  families  and  friends. 

This  voyage,  thus  happily  accomplished,  will  be  viewed,  when 
taken  in  all  its  bearings,  as  a very  remarkable  one;  — first,  from  the 
extreme  youth  of  him  on  whom  the  whole  duty  and  responsibility  of 
conducting  the  enterprise  rested;  aided  by  a chief  mate  younger 
than  himself,  and  by  a second  mate  but  a few  years  older.  Captain 
Silsbee  was  not  twenty  years  old  when  entrusted  with  this  enterprise; 
the  chief  mate,  Charles  Derby,  had  not  entered  on  his  twentieth  year; 
and  the  second  mate,  who  was  discharged  at  the  Isle  of  France,  and 
whose  place  I filled  afterward,  was  about  twenty-four  years  old. 
Secondly, — from  the  foresight,  ingenuity,  and  adroitness  manifest- 
ed in  averting  dangers ; in  perceiving  advantages,  and  in  seizing 
them  opportunely,  and  turning  them  to  the  best  account ; — and  third- 
ly, from  the  great  success  attending  this  judicious  management,  as 
demonstrated  by  the  fact  of  his  returning  to  the  owner  four  or  five 
times  the  amount  of  the  original  capital.  Mr.  Derby  used  to  call  us 
his  boys,  and  boast  of  our  achievements  ; and  well  might  he  do  so  ; 


33 


FIRST  VOYAGE. 


for  it  is  not  probable  that  the  annals  of  the  world  can  furnish  anothei 
example  of  an  enterprise  of  such  magnitude,  requiring  the  exercise 
)f  so  much  judgment  and  skill,  being  conducted  by  so  young  a man, 
aided  only  by  those  who  were  yet  younger,  and  accomplished  with 
the  most  entire  success. 

It  was  a gratifying  evidence  of  confidence  and  approbation,  that, 
after  such  extended  observations  of  my  capacity  and  character,  Cap- 
tain Silsbee  should  invite  me  to  accompany  him  again  to  India  in  the 
Benjamin,  as  chief  mate;  which  I was  preparing  to  do,  when,  unex- 
pectedly, Mr.  Derby  made  known  his  intention  of  giving  that  office 
to  his  nephew,  and  proposed  my  going  as  second  mate.  This  I de- 
clined to  do ; and  thus  raised  a barrier  to  any  advancement  where  l 
had  most  reason  to  hope  for  it. 

I remained  without  employment  till  the  autumn,  not  without  expe- 
riencing much  anxiety  and  impatience,  — when  I was  invited  by 
Captain  Chipman  to  go  with  him,  as  chief  mate,  in  the  bark  Enter- 
prise, belonging  to  the  son  of  my  former  employer,  and  bound  to 
Bordeaux.  Captain  Chipman,  a native  of  Salem,  was  an  experienc- 
ed navigator  ; one  who  had  seen  severe  and  even  cruel  service  at 
sea;  having,  during  our  revolutionary  war,  been  pressed  on  board  a 
British  frigate,  and  taken  to  the  East  Indies,  where,  in  some  engage- 
ment, he  received  a wound,  the  effect  of  which  remained  to  the  end 
of  his  days,  and  probably  lessened  their  number.  He  was  a rigid 
disciplinarian  ; a good-hearted  man  ; but  often  irritable,  from  the 
effect  of  indisposition  caused  by  his  wound.  Our  bark  was  so  deep- 
ly laden  that  there  were  but  few  days  of  the  passage  when  the  sea 
was  not  rolling  from  side  to  side  over  our  deck,  and  twenty-five  days 
were  consumed  before  reaching  our  destination. 

Arriving  safely  at  Bordeaux,  late  in  November,  we  there  passed 
the  winter  of  1794—95.  a winter  of  remarkable  severity,  and  such 
as  is  rarely  experienced  in  that  part  of  France.  The  running  icc 
made  sad  havoc  with  all  those  ships  which  were  not  seasonably  re- 
moved from  the  effect  of  its  greatest  force.  The  cables  of  some 
were  cut  off,  and  they  drifted  on  shore  ; the  bottoms  of  others  were 
cut  through,  and  they  sunk  at  their  anchors.  The  cold,  being  pro- 
port anally  severe  at  the  North,  greatly  facilitated  the  operations  of 
Pichegru  in  the  conquest  of  Hollan  1. 


FRENCH  REVOLUTION. 


37 


This  was  a period  of  unusual  effervescence  in  the  minds  of  the 
French  people ; when,  professing  to  worship  Reason,  they  seemed  to 
have  abandoned  any  they  might  ever  have  had.  On  one  of  the  De- 
cades, I went,  amongst  those  going  to  worship,  into  what  they  term- 
ed the  Temple  of  Reason.  It  was  one  of  the  old  Catholic  churches, 
fitted  up  in  accordance  with  the  new  order  of  things.  At  one  end  of 
the  interior  was  painted,  in  Imitation  of  wild  natural  scenery,  trees 
and  shrubs,  rocks  and  precipices,  on  a sereen  which  concealed  seats 
at  various  elevations,  and  flights  of  steps  leading  to  them,  and  extend- 
ing nearly  up  to  the  ceiling.  Here,  and  on  the  floor  of  the  Temple, 
were  assembled,  probably,  one  hundred  and  fifty  persons;  who  were 
addressed  by  a citizen,  from  the  pulpit,  on  the  subject,  of  the  advan- 
tages resulting,  and  to  result,  to  France  and  to  the  world,  from  the 
Revolution;  — a Revolution  which  was  the  pride  and  glory  of  the 
patriots,  and  the  dread  and  horror  of  the  aristocrats  ; — a Revolution 
winch  would  place  France  at  the  head  of  the  civilized  world,  and 
Immortalize  all  those  who  were  most  instrumental  in  producing  it, 
Ac.  &c.  It  was,  in  those  days,  hazardous  even  for  a foreigner  to  be 
seen  in  the  streets  without  the  tricolored  cockade  ; equally  so  was  it 
to  use  the  words  Monsieur  and  Madame , instead  of  citoyen  and  cito- 
yenne.  Even  the  slightest  reference  to  the  old  regime  was  inadmissi- 
ble ; and  such  was  the  tumult,  one  evening  when  I was.  present  at  the 
Great  Theatre,  because  an  actress  appeared  with  a white  feather  in 
her  head-dress,  that  it  was  suppressed  with  much  difficulty,  and  only 
by  calling  in  the  aid  of  the  military.  At  every  corner  and  public 
place  in  the  city,  was  to  be  seen  a tablet  inscribed  with  large  letters 
as  follows,  — “ Liberte,  Egalite , Fraterniie , on  la  mart .”  Such 
were  some  of  the  freaks  incident  to  the  early  part  of  the  French 
Revolution  ; and  such  was  the  infatuation  of  the  sovereign  people,  as 
to  render  them  blind  to  the  fact  of  their  having  substituted  a hundred 
tyrants  for  the  one  they  had  destroyed. 

There  was,  at  this  time,  a great  scarcity  of  provisions  in  France, 
and  the  poor  experienced  unusual  suffering  from  that  cause.  Flour 
produced  thirty  dollars  a barrel,  and  other  provisions  in  proportion  ; 
so  that  our  cargo  of  fish  sold  for  a great  profit  Having  invested  the 
proceeds  of  it  in  a cargo  of  wine  and  brandy,  we  sailed  for  home  in 
March,  and  arrived  there  in  safety  after  a fair  passage.  Remaining 
4 


FIRST  VOYAGE. 


38 

but  a few  days  at  home,  I sailed  again  with  Captain  Chipman,  in  the 
same  capacity  and  in  the  same  vessel,  to  New  York,  — there  to  lade 
a cargo  for  France.  After  being  partially  loaded,  accounts  were  re- 
ceived from  thence  which  discouraged  the  prosecution  of  the  plan. 
The  cargo  was  relanded,  the  crew  discharged,  the  vessel  laid  by,  and 
myself  alone  left  to  take  care  of  her. 

In  the  autumn  of  1795,  a voyage  was  determined  on  for  the  bark 
to  the  Isle  of  Bourbon  ; to  lade  a part  of  the  cargo  at  New  York, 
and  to  proceed  to  Boston  for  the  remainder.  The  charge  of  this  en- 
terprise was  confided  to  me,  and,  as  will  readily  be  supposed,  was 
very  gratifying, to  me.  But,  in  carrying  into  execution  the  first  part 
of  this  plan,  that  of  conducting  the  vessel  to  Boston,  1 came  near 
terminating  my  nautical  and  earthly  course,  from  a cause  beyond  the 
reach  of  human  control.  When  we  came  in  sight  of  Cape  Cod,  the 
weather  was  clear  and  pleasant  with  a light  breeze  from  the  east- 
ward, before  which  we  spread  ail  sail  for  Boston  light ; but  very  sud- 
denly the  wind  increased,  accompanied  with  thick  weather,  and 
every  appearance  of  a storm.  It  was  no  less  extraordinary  than 
unfortunate,  that  neither  myself,  nor  any  one  on  board,  had  entered 
Boston  harbor  from  sea,  consequently  no  one  was  acquainted  with 
the  localities  of  the  light-house.  Under  such  circumstances,  in 
thick  weather,  a gale  of  wind  blowing  on  shore,  and  night  approach- 
ing,— to  have  run  for  the  light,  in  the  hope  of  obtaining  a pilot, 
would  have  been  the  height  of  imprudence.  The  only  alternative, 
then,  which  presented  for  the  salvation  of  the  ship  and  our  lives,  was 
that  of  hauling  on  a wind,  and  endeavoring  to  keep  off  shore  ; but 
this  was  a forlorn  hope,  for  we  had  advanced  far  into  the  bay,  and 
could  make  only  short  boards  each  way.  As  every  man  was  sensi- 
ble of  the  impending  danger,  they  worked  with  unusual  alacrity  in 
close-reefing  the  topsails,  which,  with  the  courses,  when  hauled  on  a 
wind,  brought  the  lee  gunwale  under  water.  It  was  about  four 
o’clock,  P.  M.,  and  the  sea  had  increased  so  much  that  the  ship,  be- 
ing a dull  sailer,  made  nearly  as  much  lee  way  as  head  way.  The 
night  was  long,  dark,  terrific,  and  it  was  doubtful  if  any  one  of  us 
would  see  the  light  of  another  day  ; yet  all  were  alert,  at  their  posts, 
in  wearing  ship,  though  thoroughly  drenched  with  the  spray  which 
constantly  broke  over  us.  The  only  glimmering  hope  that  remained 


NARROW  ESCAPE. 


39 


to  us  was,  that  the  gale  might  not  be  of  the  ordinary  duration  ; and 
this  was  realized,  as,  at  dawn,  the  gale  abated  as  suddenly  as  it  had 
risen,  leaving  us  nearly  becalmed.  This  in  no  degree  lessened  the 
danger  of  our  situation.  By  the  soundings,  we  knew  that  we  were 
but  little  distant  from  Cohasset  rocks,  on  which  the  sea  was  breaking 
with  great  fury,  and  constantly  heaving  the  ship  toward  them.  We 
had  got  ready  our  anchors  ; aware,  however,  that  if  they  brought  the 
ship  up,  which  was  doubtful,  the  cables  would  soon  be  cut  off  by  the 
rocks,  for  a chain  cable  was  not  then  known.  In  this  dilemma,  with 
a dense  fog  and  a light  easterly  breeze,  a little  fishing  vessel  appear- 
ed close  alongside  of  us,  bound  in.  The  skipper  knew  his  position 
exactly,  and  said  if  we  would  follow  him,  we  should  be  inside  the 
light  in  two  hours. 

We  did  follow  him,  and,  in  less  than  two  hours,  were  boarded  by  a 
pilot  when  inside  the  light.  This  sudden  transition  from  the  most 
imminent  danger  to  the  most  perfect  safety  ; from  the  most  boister- 
ous, sleepless,  and  terrific  night,  to  the  smooth  water,  quiet,  and  safety 
of  a secure  haven,  was  productive  of  emotions  more  easily  imagined 
than  described  ; nor  could  I fail  to  contrast  the  bearing  which  a dif- 
ferent result  (supposing  I had  survived  it)  would  have  had  on  my 
future  destiny. 


CHAPTER  II. 


Voyage  to  Havre  de  Grace — Disappointment — Send  home  the  Enterprise  — Buy  a 
Cutter  — Amount  of  Vessel  and  Cargo  — Explanation  of  my  Plan  — Apprehension 
of  my  Friends  — Name  of  the  Vessel  — Sail  from  Havre  — Disaster  — Attempt  to 
return  — Fall  to  Leeward  — Come  to  Anchor — Cables  part — Run  ashore — Humane 
Conduct  of  the  People  — They  unlade  and  get  off  the  Vessel  — Enter  River  Orme 
— Stop  the  Leaks  — Return  to  Havre  — Repair  the  Vessel  — The  Crew  desert. 


completed  the  lading  of  the  ship,  I 
sailed  from  Boston  in  October,  1795,  bound  to 
the  Isle  of  Bourbon. 

The  confidence,  thus  evinced,  in  entrusting  the 
management  of  a valuable  vessel  and  cargo  to  so 
young  and  inexperienced  a man,  for  I had  then 
only  attained  my  majority,  was  very  gratifying  to 
my  ambition,  and  was  duly  appreciated. 

,, ( In  those  almost  primitive  days  of  our  commerce,  a 
' coppered  vessel  was  scarcely  known  in  the  United 
States  ; and  on  the  long  East  India  voyages,  the  barna- 
' V;  cles  and  grass,  which  accumulated  on  the  wooden 
sheathing,  retarded  the  ship’s  sailing  so  much,  that  a third 
yjmore  time,  at  least,  was  required  for  the  passages,  than  is 
^ v needed  since  the  practice  of  sheathing  with  copper  has  been 
adopted.  The  success  attending  this  voyage  was  very  satisfactory  to 
my  employer,  of  which  he  gave  evidence  in  despatching  me  again, 
in  the  same  vessel,  on  a voyage  to  Europe,  and  thence  to  Mocha,  for 
a cargo  of  coffee. 

While  at  Havre  de  Grace,  in  the  summer  of  1797,  engaged  in 
making  preparations  for  pursuing  the  voyage,  I had  the  mortification 
to  learn,  by  letters  from  my  employer,  that  some  derangement  had 
occurred  in  his  affairs,  which  made  it  necessary  to  abandon  the  Mocha 
enterprise,  and  to  place  in  his  hands,  with  the  least  possible  delay, 
the  funds  destined  for  that  object.  Among  the  numerous  commercial 


PURCHASE  A VESSEL. 


4] 


adventures,  in  which  our  merchants  at  that  time  had  been  engaged 
to  the  eastward  of  the  Cape  of  Good  Hope,  no  voyage  had  been 
undertaken  to  Mocha.  To  be  the  first,  therefore,  in  an  untried  adven- 
ture, was  highly  gratifying  to  my  ambition  ; and  my  disappointment 
was  proportionally  great  when  compelled  to  relinquish  it.  To  have 
detained  the  vessel  in  France,  while  waiting  the  slow  progress  of  the 
sale  of  the  cargo,  would  have  been  injudicious ; and  she  was  there- 
fore despatched  for  home  under  charge  of  the  mate,  William  Webb, 
of  Salem. 

Being  thus  relieved  from  the  necessity  of  an  immediate  return  to 
the  United  States,  I flattered  myself  that,  even  with  the  very  con- 
tracted means  which  I possessed,  I might  still  engage,  with  a little 
assistance,  and  on  a very  humble  scale,  in  some  enterprise  to  the  Isle 
of  France  and  India.  When,  therefoi’e,  I had  accomplished  the 
business  with  which  1 had  been  charged,  by  remitting  to  the  owner  in 
Salem  his  property  with  me,  I began  earnestly  to  put  to  the  test  the 
practicability  of  the  object  of  which  I was  so  desirous.  A coincidence 
of  favorable  and  very  encouraging  circumstances  aided  my  views. 
A friend  of  mine  had  become  proprietor  of  a little  cutter  of  thirty- 
eight  tons  burden,  which  had  been  a packet  between  Dover  and 
Calais.  This  vessel  had  been  taken  for  a debt ; and  the  owner,  not 
knowing  what  to  do  with  her,  offered  her  to  me  for  a reasonable 
price,  and  to  pay  when  I had  the  ability.  This  credit  would  enable 
me  to  put  all  my  capital  in  the  cargo,  excepting  what  was  required 
for  coppering  and  fitting  the  cutter  for  the  contemplated  voyage,  about 
five  hundred  dollars  ; leaving  me  fifteen  hundred  to  be  invested  in 
the  cargo.  On  making  known  to  others  of  my  friends  the  plan  of 
my  voyage,  two  of  them  engaged  to  embark  to  the  amount  of  a 
thousand  dollars  each,  on  condition  of  sharing  equally  the  profits  at 
the  end  of  the  voyage.  Having  become  proprietor  of  the  cutter, 
which,  with  all  additional  expenses,  cost,  ready  for  sea,  about  one 
thousand  dollars,  an  investment  of  articles  best  suited  to  the  market 
of  the  Isle  of  France  was  purchased  to  the  amount  of  three  thou- 
sand five  hundred  dollars;  making  vessel  and  cargo  amount  to  four 
thousand  five  hundred.  It  is  not  probable  that  the  annals  of  com- 
merce can  furnish  another  example  of  an  Indiaman  and  cargo  being 
fitted  and  expedited  on  so  humble  a scale 
4* 


42 


FIRST  VOYAGE. 


I had  now  the  high  gratification  of  uncontrolled  action.  An  innate, 
love  of  independence,  an  impatience  of  restraint,  an  aversion  tc 
responsibility,  and  a desire  to  have  no  other  limits  to  my  wanderings 
than  the  globe  itself,  reconciled  me  to  the  endurance  of  fatigues  and 
privations,  which  I knew  to  be  the  unavoidable  consequence  of  nav:- 
gating  in  so  frail  a bark,  rather  than  to  possess  the  comparative  ease 
and  comfort,  coupled  with  the  restraint  and  responsibility  which  the 
command  of  a fine  ship  belonging  to  another  would  present. 

As  there  are,  doubtless,  many  persons,  not  excepting  those,  even, 
who  are  familiar  with  commercial  and  maritime  affairs,  who  will 
view  this  enterprise  as  very  hazardous  from  sea  risk,  and  as  offering 
but  a very  small  prospect  of  emolument,  it  is  proper,  so  far  as  I am 
able,  to  do  away  such  impressions  by  briefly  stating  the  object  I had 
in  view.  On  my  late  voyage  to  the  Isle  of  Bourbon,  1 had  perceived 
a great  deficiency  in  the  number  of  vessels,  requisite  for  the  advan- 
tageous conveyance  of  passengers  and  freight  to  and  from  the  Isles 
of  France  and  Bourbon.  If  my  cutter  had  been  built  expressly  for 
the  purpose,  she  could  not  have  been  more  suitable.  With  a large 
and  beautifully  finished  cabin,  where  passengers  would  be  more  com- 
fortably accommodated  than  in  many  vessels  of  greater  dimensions  ; 
with  but  small  freighting  room,  and  requiring,  therefore,  but  little  time 
to  load,  and  of  greater  speed  in  sailing  than  the  generality  of  mer- 
chant vessels,  I had  no  doubt  of  being  able  to  sell  her  there  for  more 
than  double  the  cost ; or  I might  find  it- to  be  more  advantageous  to 
employ  her  in  freighting  between  the  islands.  In  either  event,  1 felt 
entire  confidence  in  being  amply  remunerated  for  the  time  and  risk. 
On  the  cargo,  composed  of  such  articles  as  my  late  experience  had 
proved  to  be  most  in  demand,  I had  no  doubt  of  making  a profit  of 
from  fifty  to  one  hundred  per  cent,  on  its  cost.  The  proceeds  of 
vessel  and  cargo,  invested  in  trie  produce  of  the  island,  and  shipped  to 
Europe  or  the  United  States,  would,  at  that  time,  have  yielded  a 
clear  gain  of  thirty-three  and  one  third  pe~  cent.  Thus,  in  the  course 
of  one  year,  I should  make  two  hundred  percent,  on  the  original  cap- 
ital ; a result  which  might  be  considered  abundant  compensation  for 
the  time  it  would  consume,  and  should  take  from  the  enterprise  the 
character  of  quixotism,  with  which  it  hed  been  stigmatized. 

As  soon  as  it  became  known  at  Havre  Mat  my  destination  was  the 


DANGEROUS  VOYAGE. 


43 


Isle  of  France,  some  of  my  friends,  anxious  for  my  safety,  and  per 
ceiving  in  the  enterprise  only  the  ardor  and  temerity  of  inexperienced 
youth,  endeavored  to  dissuade  me  from  it,  by  painting  to  me,  in  glow- 
ing colors,  the  distress  and  probable  destruction  I was  preparing  for 
myself  and  men.  But,  however  friendly  and  considerate  the  advice, 
I felt  myself  more  competent  to  judge  of  the  risk  than  they  were, 
and,  consequently,  disregarded  them.* 

The  vessel,  being  all  ready  for  sea  on  the  20th  of  September, 
1797,  was  detained  several  days  by  the  difficulty  of  procuring  men. 
Those  who  were  engaged  one  day  would  desert  the  next ; and  the 
dangerous  character  of  the  enterprise  having  been  discussed  and 
admitted  among  the  seamen  in  port,  I began  to  be  seriously  apprehen- 
sive that  I might  not  succeed  in  procuring  a crew.  At  length,  how- 
ever, with  much  difficulty,  and  some  additional  pay,  I succeeded  in 
procuring  four  men  ; and,  having  previously  engaged  a mate,  our 
number  was  complete. 

To  delay  proceeding  to  sea  a moment  longer  than  was  necessary, 
would  have  been  incurring  a risk  of  the  loss  of  my  men,  and  the  pay 
I had  advanced  them.  Hence  I was  induced  to  sail  when  appear- 
ances were  very  inauspicious.  A strong  north  wind  was  blowing 
into  the  bay  with  such  violence  as  already  to  have  raised  a consider- 
able sea  ; but  I flattered  myself  that,  as  the  sun  declined,  it  would 
abate  ; that,  if  we  could  weather  Cape  Barfleur,  we  should  make  a 
free  wind  down  channel ; and  that,  if  this  should  be  found  imprac- 
ticable, we  could,  at  all  events,  return  to  Havre  Roads,  and  wait  there 
a more  favorable  opportunity. 

With  such  impressions,  we  sailed  from  Havre  on  the  25th  of  Sep- 
tember. A great  crowd  had  assembled  on  the  pier  head  to  witness 
our  departure,  and  cheered  us  as  we  passed.  It  was  about  noon,  and 
we  were  under  full  sail ; but  we  had  scarcely  been  out  two  hours, 
when  we  were  obliged  to  reduce  it  to  a double-reefed  mainsail,  fore- 
sail, and  second-sized  jib.  With  the  sail  even  ’bus  diminished,  the 
vessel,  at  times,  almost  buried  herself ; still,  as  every  part  of  the 

*In  conformity  with  a condition  in  the  contract  for  the  vessel,  she  was  called  the 
Caroline.  We  navigated  with  such  papers  only  as  our  foreign  consuls  were,  at  that 
period,  in  the  habit  of  giving  on  similar  emergencies ; the  bill  of  sale  and  consulai 
certificate  attached,  which  were  respected  by  the  belligerents. 


44 


FIRST  VOYAGE. 


equipment  was  new  and  strong,  I flattered  myself  with  being  able  tc 
weather  the  Cape,  and  pressed  forward  through  a sea  in  which  we 
were  continually  enveloped,  cheered  with  the  hope  that  we  had 
nothing  worse  to  experience,  and  that  we  should  soon  be  relieved  by 
the  ability  to  bear  away  and  make  a free  wind.  I was  destined,  how- 
ever,  to  a sad  disappointment;  for  the  wind  and  sea  having  increased 
towards  midnight,  an  extraordinary  plunge  into  a very  short  and  sharp 
sea  completely  buried  the  vessel,  and,  with  a heavy  crash,  snapped 
off  the  bowsprit  by  the  board.  The  vessel  then  luffed  into  the  wind, 
in  defiance  of  the  helm,  and  the  first  shake  of  the  foresail  stripped 
it  from  the  bolt  rope. 

No  other  alternative  now  presented  than  to  endeavor  to  regain  the 
port  of  Havre  ; a task,  under  existing  circumstances,  of  very  difficult 
and  doubtful  accomplishment.  The  sea  had  increased  in  so  great  a 
degree,  and  ran  so  sharp,  that  we  were  in  continual  apprehension  of 
having  our  decks  swept.  This  circumstance,  combined  with  the  sea- 
sickness, which  none  escaped,  retarded  and  embarrassed  the  opera- 
tion of  wearing  round  on  the  other  tack.  The  violent  motion  of  the 
vessel  had  also  prevented  the  possibility  of  obtaining  sleep  ; indeed, 
no  person  had  been  permitted  to  go  below  before  the  disaster  ; and 
none  had  the  disposition  to  do  so  afterwards ; but  all  were  alert  in  the 
performance  of  their  duty,  which  had  for  its  immediate  object  the 
getting  of  the  vessel’s  head  pointed  towards.  Havre. 

This  was  at  length  effected  ; but,  as  we  had  no  spar  suitable  for  a 
jury  bowsprit,  we  could  carry  only  such  part  of  our  mainsail  as  was 
balanced  by  a jib,  set  in  the  place  of  a foresail.  With  this  sail  we 
made  so  much  lee  way,  that  it  was  evident,  as  soon  as  daylight 
enabled  me  to  form  a judgment,  that  we  could  not  reach  Havre ; nor 
was  it  less  evident,  that  nothing  "but  an  abatement  of  the  gale  could 
save  us  from  being  stranded  before  night.  With  the  hope  of  this 
abatement,  the  heavens  were  watched  with  an  intensity  of  interest 
more  easily  imagined  than  described  ; but  no  favorable  sign  appeared : 
and  before  noon  we  had  evidence  of  being  to  leeward  of  the  port  of 
Havre.  We  now  cleared  away  the  cables  and  anchors,  and  secured 
with  battens  the  communications  with  the  cabin  and  forecastle 
While  thus  engaged,  the  man  at  the  mast  head  announced  the  appall 
ing,  but  expected  intelligence,  of  “ breakers  under  the  lee.” 


SAFELY  LANDED* 


45 


This  information  had  the  effect  of  an  electric  shock  to  rouse  the 
crew  from  that  apathy  which  was  a natural  consequence  of  twenty- 
four  hours’  exposure  to  great  fatigue,  incessant  wet  and  cold,  and 
want  of  sleep  and  food  ; for  we  had  not  been  able. to  cook  any  thing. 
The  rapidity  with  which  we  were  driven  to  leeward,  soon  made  the 
breakers  discernable  from  deck  ; and  they  were  of  such  extent  as  to 
leave  us  no  choice  whether  we  headed  east  or  west ; 'for  the  forlorn 
hope  of  being  held  by  our  anchors  was  all  that  remained  to  us.  No 
one  on  board  possessed  any  knowledge  of  the  shore  we  were  approach- 
ing ; but  our  chart  denoted  it  as  rocky.  It  was  easy  to  perceive,  that 
to  be  thrown  among  rocks,  by  such  a sea,  must  be  the  destruction  of 
us  all.  Hence  it  was  of  the  utmost  importance  to  discover,  and  to 
anchor  off  the  part  of  the  shore  which  appeared  to  be  most  free  from 
rocks  ; and  with  this  view  the  mate  was  looking  out  from  the  mast 
head.  As  he  perceived  an  apparently  clear  beach  east  of  us.,  and 
within  our  ability  of  reaching,  we  steered  for  it;  and  when  the  wates 
was  only  six  fathoms  deep,  we  lowered  our  sails  and  came  to  anchor. 
But  as  our  anchor  dragged,  a second  was  let  go,  which,  for  a moment 
only,  brought  the  vessel’s  head  to  the  sea,  when  one  cable  parted; 
and  as  We  were  drifting  rapidly  with  the  other,  we  cut  it,  then  hoisted 
the  jib,  and  steered  directly  for  the  clear  space  in  the  beach.  Going 
in  with  great  velocity,  on  the  top  of  a high  breaker,  we  were  soon 
enveloped  in  its  foam,  and  in  that  of  several  others  which  succeeded. 
The  Vessel,  however,  notwithstanding  she  struck  the  ground  with  a 
violence  which  appeared  sufficient  to  dash  her  in  pieces,  Still  held 
together,  in  defiance  of  this  and  several  minor  shocks  ; and,  as  the 
tide  was  falling,  she  soon  became  so  still,  and  the  water  so  shoal,  as 
to  enable  us  to  go  on  shore. 

As  the  alarm  gun  had  been  fired,  the  peasantry  had  cotne  down  in 
great,  numbers  ; and  when  they  perceived  us  leaving  the  vessel,  they 
ran  into  the  surf,  and,  with  such  demonstrations  of  humanity  and 
kindness  as  our  forlorn  situa'ion  was  calculated  to  excite,  supported 
us  to  the  shore,  which  we  had  no  sooner  reached,  than  they  compli- 
mented us  on  the  judicious  selection  we  had  made  of  a place  to  come 
on  shore.  And  it  was  now  obvious  to  us,  that  if  we  had  struck  half 
a mile,  either  on  one  side  or  the  other  from  this  spot,  there  would 
have  been  scarce  a possibility  of  saving  our  lives. 


46 


FfRST  VOYAGE. 


We  were  fortunate,  not  only  in  the  selection  of  the  spot,  hut 
also  in  the  circumstance  of  its  being  nearly  high  water  when  the 
vessel  struck.  The  concurrence  of  two  such  circumstances  turned 
the  scale  in  my  favor  ; and  immediately  after  landing  I was  con- 
vinced that  the  vessel  and  cargo,  though  much  damaged,  would  both 
be  saved.  When  the  tide  had  so  fallen  as  to  leave  the  vessel  dry, 
the  inhabitants  showed  no  disposition  to  take  advantage  of  our  dis- 
tress, by  stipulating  for  a certain  proportion  of  what  they  might 
save,  before  going  to  work  ; but,  prompted  by  their  humane  feelings, 
set  about  discharging  the  vessel,  in  such  numbers  and  with  such  ear- 
nestness, that  before  sunset  she  was  completely  unloaded,  and  the 
cargo  carried  above  high  water  mark. 

The  gale,  towards  evening,  had  very  much  abated,  and,  before  the 
next  high  water,  was  fortunately  succeeded  by  a calm  and  a great 
decrease  of  sea.  In  the  mean  time,  the  leaks  made  in  the  bottom 
were  stopped,  as  well  as  time  and  circumstances  would  permit ; an 
anchor  was  carried  as  far  as  the  retreat  of  the  tide  would  admit,  and 
the  cable  hove  taut.  Having  made  these  dispositions,  I engaged  a 
pilot  and  a sufficient  number  of  men  to  attend,  at  full  tide,  to  heave 
the  vessel  off,  and  to  endeavor  to  remove  her  into  the  river  Orme, 
which  was  near  by.  These  arrangements  being  made,  I went  with 
my  men  to  an  inn,  in  the  neighboring  town  of  Oistreham,  to  get 
some  refreshment,  and  to  pass  the  night;  compelled  by  exhaustion 
to  place  entire  dependence  on  those  who  were  strangers  to  us,  for 
getting  the  vessel  afloat,  as  well  as  to  secure  the  cargo  from  being 
plundered. 

Though  worn  out  by  fatigue  and  anxiety,  my  distress  of  mind  was 
so  great  that  I could  not  sleep.  The  thoughts  that  I had  contracted 
a debt  which  I might  never  be  able  to  pay,  that.no  insurance  had 
been  effected,  that,  without  credit,  I might  be  compelled  to  sacrifice 
what  had  been  saved  to  defray  the  expenses  incurred,  and  that  my 
fortune  and  pi'ospects  were  ruined,  were  so  incessantly  haunting  my 
imagination,  that  the  night  rather  added  to,  than  diminished  my  feel- 
ings of  exhaustion. 

The  following  morning  I found  the  vessel  lying  safely  in  the  river 
Orme ; and  men  were  also  there,  ready  to  make  those  temporary 
repairs  which  were  indispensable  to  enable  us  to  return  to  Havre 


PROCEED  TO  HAVRE. 


4T, 


Tn  the  forenoon  it  was  required  of  me  to  go  to  Caen  (two  or  three 
miles  distant)  for  tie  oarpose  of  making  the  customary  report  to  the 
municipal  autnoriti.es  which  was  a business  of  very  little  intricacy 
and  very  speedy  accomplishment.  An  examination  of  the  vessel 
and  cargo  satisf ed  me  that  the  former  could  be  repaired  at  very 
trifling  expense,  and  the  latter  was  not  damaged  to  much  amount. 
The  alacrity  to  render  us  assistance,  in  the  people  of  this  place,  from 
the  beginning  of  our  disaster,  was  extended  to  the  period  when,  the 
cargo  having  been  transported  to  the  vessel  and  re-shipped,  we  were 
prepared  to  return  to  Havre. 

As  in  cases  of  vessels  stranding,  it  seems  to  be  a practice,  sanc- 
tioned by  long  established  usage,  (particularly  on  the  other  side  of 
the  channel,)  to  consider  the  unfortunate  as  those  abandoned  by 
Heaven,  from  whom  may  lawfully  be  taken  all  that  the  elements  have 
spared,  1 was  prepared  for  a demand  of  salvage  to  a considerable 
amount.  But  in  this  expectation  i found  I had  done  great  injustice  to 
these  good  people  ; for,  on  presenting  their  account,  it  appeared  they 
had  charged  no  more  than  for  ordinary  labor,  and  that  at  a very 
moderate  rate.  It  is  a circumstance,  also,  very  creditable  to  them, 
that  notwithstanding  some  packages  of  the  cargo,  of  much  value,  and 
of  such  bulk  as  to  be  easily  concealed,  were  in  their  possession, 
exclusively,  for  several  days  and  nights,  yet  nothing  was  lost.  Al- 
though these  transactions  are  of  a dite  so  remote,  that  probably  many 
of  the  actors  therein  have  “ ceased  from  their  earthly  labors,’’  yet  I 
never  recall  them  to  mind  without  a feeling  of  compunction  that  I 
had  not  ascertained  the  names  of  the  principals  in  the  business,  and 
made  that  public  acknowledgement  for  the  disinterested  and  impor- 
tant services  rendered  me,  which  gratitude,  no  less. than  justice 
demanded.  For  this  omission  my  perturbed  state  of  mind  is  my  only 
apology. 

With  a favorable  wind  for  Havre,  we  proceeded  for  that  port 
where  we  arrived  in  about  ten  days  after  having  sailed  from  there. 
The  reception  I met  with  at  Havre,  from  my  friend  James  Price,  Esq. 
of  Boston,  who  was  more  largely  interested  in  the  adventure  than  any 
other  individual  excepting  myself,  was  kind  and  friendly  in  the 
extreme,  and  tended  to  counteract  the  effects  of  my  deep  mortification, 
and  to  raise  my  spirits  for  the  prosecution  of  the  original  plan.  He 


48 


FIRST  VOYAGE. 


relieved  my  anxiety  relative  to  the  means  of  defraying  the  expenses 
of  repairs,  by  engaging  to  provide  them.  He  gave  me  a room  at  his 
house;  and  while  I was  ill  there,  (for  this  I did  not  escape,)  he  facili- 
tated my  recovery  by  his  care  and  kindness.  With  such  attentions, 
my  health  was  soon  re-established,  my  spirits  renewed,  and  I pursued 
the  repairing  and  refitting  the  vessel  with  my  accustomed  ardor. 

On  examination  of  the  cargo,  it  was  found  to  be  very  little  dam- 
aged. The  vessel  was  considerably  injured  so  near  the  keel,  that  it 
was  necessary  to  lay  her  on  blocks,  where  it  was  discovered  that  the 
lower  plank  was  so  much  broken  that  several  feet  of  it  would  require 
to  be  replaced  with  new.  This  being  accomplished,  the  other  repairs 
made,  and  the  cargo  again  put  on  board,  there  was  nothing  to  pre- 
vent proceeding  immediately  to  sea,  excepting  a difficulty  in  procuring 
men,  which  seemed  to  be  insurmountable.  No  one  of  my  former 
crew,  excepting  a black  man,  (George,)  would  try  it  again.  We 
had  arrived  at  the  close  of  the  month  of  November ; and  each  day’s 
delay,  by  the  advance  of  winter,  increased  the  difficulty  and  danger 
of  our  enterprise.  Indeed,  the  westerly  gales  were  already  of  fre- 
quent occurrence ; the  nights  had  become  long,  and  when  I heard  the 
howling  winds  and  beating  rain,  and  recollected  in  what  a frail  boat 
I had  to  contend  with  them,  I wished  that  my  destiny  had  marked  out 
for  me  a task  of  less  difficult  accomplishment. 


CHAPTER  HI. 


Difficulty  in  procuring  Men  — Partially  accomplished  — Sail  from  Havre  — A British 
frigate  — Ushant — Sketch  of  the  Crew  — Anecdotes  of  George  — His  Bravery  and 
Fidelity — Swimming  after  the  Pig  — British  Frigate  Stag— Danger  of  Contact  — 
Chased  off  Cadiz  — Boarded  from  a French  Privateer  — Released  unharmed  — Cape 
de  Verde  Islands  — A Gale  — Lose  a Cask  of  Water — Causes  a Necessity  of  Stop- 
ping at  Cape  of  Good  Hope  — Arrival  — Interview  with  the  Admiral  — Many  Vis- 
itors — Suspicion  of  our  Object  — Interview  with  Lord  Macartney  — Searched 
for  Papers  — Sell  the  Vessel  — Trouble  with  the  Collector  — Appeal  to  Lord  Macart- 
ney— Adjusted — The  Vessel  despatched  — Never  heard  of  after. 


p?3E  difficulty  of  procuring  men  seemed  to  in- 
crease with  each  additional  day’s  detention.  Those 
I whom  I engaged  one  day,  would  desert  the  next 
| alarmed  by  some  exaggerated  story  of  our  first 
| attempt.  In  the  course  of  three  weeks  I shipped 
no  less  than  four  different  men  as  mates,  and  as 
many  different  crews,  and  each,  in  turn,  abandoned 
me.  At  length  I procured  an  active  and  capable 
1 young  seaman  from  a Nantucket  ship,  one  whom  the 
captain  recommended,  as  mate,  and  another  man  and  a 
boy  in  addition  to  George,  who  had  held  true  to  his  en- 
gagement. I was  desirous  of  procuring  one  more,  but 
my  attempt  to  do  so  whs  unsuccessful ; and  fearing  that,  by 
any  delay  for  this  purpose,  I might  lose  those  already  on 
board,  I sailed  immediately. 

Our  expedition  had  become  a subject  of  general  conversa- 
tion in  the  town ; and  the  difficulty  of  getting  away  the  Indiaman  (as  she 
was  called)  was  known  to  every  one.  The  day,  therefore,  that  we 
sailed,  the  pier-head  was  again  thronged  with  people,  who  cheered  us 
as  we  passed  by,  wishing  us  un  bon  voyage  ; but  no  small  portion  of 
them  considered  us  as  bound  to  certain  destruction.  It  was  now  the 
twenty-first  day  of  December ; a season  of  the  year  when  the  loss 
of  a few  hours  only  of  the  easterly  wind,  then  blowing,  might  be  at- 
5 


50 


FIRST  VOYAGE. 


tended  with  disagreeable,  if  not  disastrous  consequences.  We  there* 
fore  set  all  our  sail  to  improve  it,  and,  while  making  rapid  progress 
towards  the  channel,  were  brought  to  by  a British  frigate,  command* 
ed  by  Sir  R.  Strachan.  The  boarding  officer  was  very  civil.  He 
declared  our  enterprise  to  be  a vtr)  daring  une  ; caused  us  as  little 
detention  as  possible,  and,  returning  to  his  ship,  immediately  made 
the  signal  that  we  might  proceed. 

It  was  soon  very  evident  that  no  person  on  board,  excepting  the 
mate  and  myself,  was  capable  of  performing  the  very  common  and 
indispensable  business  of  steering  ; and  though  there  was  no  doubt 
our  men  would  soon  learn,  yet,  in  the  mean  time,  we  had  the  pros- 
pect before  us  of  a tedious,  though  not  very  laborious  course  of  duty. 
As  the  wind  continued  to  be  favorable,  our  passage  down  the  channel 
was  easy  and  expeditious  ; and  the  day  after  leaving  Havre  we  passed 
by  and  in  sight  of  the  island  of  Ushant.  We  were  now  in  a position 
to  feel  the  full  effect  of  the  westerly  gales,  which  are  so  prevalent  at 
this  season  of  the  year ; and,  in  order  to  have  plenty  of  sea-room,  in 
case  of  encountering  one,  I directed  a course  to  be  steered  which 
should  carry  us  wide  of  Cape  Ortegal. 

A sufficient  time  had  now  elapsed  since  leaving  Havre,  (it  being 
the  third  day,)  to  give  me  a very  tolerable  knowledge  of  my  crew  ; 
whose  characters,  peculiarities,  and  accomplishments  were  such,  that 
a sketch  of  them  may  not  be  without  interest  to  the  reader.  My 
mate,  Reuben  Barnes,  was  a young  man  of  nineteen  or  twenty,  a 
native  of  Nantucket,  who,  having  been  engaged  in  the  whale  fishery, 
had  profited  by  that  excellent  school  to  acquire,  not  only  the  know- 
ledge of  the  seaman’s  profession,  but  also  enough  of  the  mechanic 
arts  to  fish  a spar  with  dexterity,  to  caulk  a seam,  or  to  make  a buck- 
et or  a barrel.  The  intelligence,  activity,  watchfulness,  and  adroit- 
ness of  this  young  man  relieved  me  from  much  anxiety  and  care  ; 
and  in  his  conduct  while  with  me,  he  evinced  all  the  steadiness  and 
fidelity  which  the  recommendation  he  brought,  as  well  as  the  place 
of  his  birth,  had  led  me  to  expect. 

Decidedly  the  most  important  personage  of  my  foremast  hands  was 
the  black  man  George,  who  had  dared  to  embark  on  our  second  voy- 
age, after  having  shared  in  the  disasters  of  the  first.  In  his  appear- 
ance, capacity,  and  dialect,  George  was  the  veriest  negro  that  can  be 


ANECDOTES  OF  GEORGE. 


51 


imagined.  For  honesty,  fidelity,  and  courage,  he  may  have  been 
equalled,  but  can  never  have  been  surpassed.  He  stood  about  six  feet 
and  three  inches,  was  rather  slender,  very  awkward,  and  of  a much 
more  sable  hue  than  common,  but  with  an  expression  of  countenance 
mild  and  pleasing.  With  simplicity  of  character  approximating  to 
folly,  he  united  a degree  of  self-conceit,  which  led  him  to  believe 
that  he  could  do  whatever  could  be  done  by  another,  and,  in  some 
cases,  to  suppose  he  could  make  great  improvements;  an  instance  of 
which  occurred  before  we  had  been  out  a week.  In  his  previous 
voyages  George  had  been  cook,  and  had  therefore  nothing  to  do  with 
the  compass ; but  now,  having  to  take  his  regular  turn  at  steering,  he 
was  greatly  puzzled  with  its  unsteadiness.  He  could  steer  in  the 
night  with  tolerable  accuracy,  by  giving  him  a star  by  which  to  steer; 
but  the  compass  appeared  to  him  to  be  calculated  only  to  embarrass. 
With  a view  of  remedying  this  difficulty,  George  had  taken  off  the 
cover  to  the  till  of  his  chest,  on  which  having  marked  the  points  of 
the  compass,  and  pierced  a hole  in  the  centre  for  the  pivot,  he  brought 
it  aft,  and  with  great  appearance  of  complacency,  and  expectation  of 
applause,  placed  it  on  deck  before  the  helmsman,  with  the  proper 
point  directed  forward  to  correspond  with  the  course,  and  then 
exclaimed,  “ Dair,  massa,  dat  compass  be  teady ; George  teer  by  him 
well  as  anybody.” 

But  this  simplicity  and  conceit  was  more  than  redeemed  by  his 
tried  fidelity  and  heroic  courage,  of  which  the  following  is  a remark- 
able instance.  George  had  been  a slave  to  some  planter  in  Savan- 
nah ; and  one  day,  being  in  the  woods  with  his  master,  they  encoun- 
tered an  Indian,  who  was  hunting.  Some  dispute  arising,  the  Indian, 
having  the  advantage  of  being  armed,  threatened  to  shoot  them.  In 
consequence  of  this  threat  they  seized  him  and  took  away  his  gun ; 
but  after  a little  wrhile,  and  with  urgent  entreaties  and  fair  promises 
from  him,  they  were  induced  to  return  it ; first  taking  the  precaution 
to  dip  it  into  water,  to  prevent  an  immediate  use  of  it.  This  served 
again  to  rouse  the  anger  of  the  Indian,  who  immediately  took  the 
readiest  means  for  drying  it.  In  the  mean  time  George  and  his  mas- 
ter had  entered  a canoe,  and,  pursuing  their  way  in  a narrow  river  or 
creek,  had  got  a long  distance  from  the  spot  where  they  had  left  the 
Indian,  when,  on  looking  back,  they  perceived  him  running  aftej 


FIRST  VOYAGE. 


them  on  the  bank.  On  arriving  abreast  of  them  he  immediately  took 
aim,  which  George  perceiving,  threw  himself,  as  a shield,  between 
his  master  and  the  ball,  and  was  so  severely  wounded  that  his  life 
was,  for  many  weeks,  despaired  of.  After  a confinement  of  six 
months,  he  entirely  recovered  ; and,  as  a reward,  his  master  gave  him 
his  liberty. 

At  the  time  he  engaged  with  me  he  had  been  a sailor  about  two 
years,  and  had  been  so  invariably  cheated  out  of  his  wages,  that  he 
had  no  other  means  of  clothing  himself  than  the  advance  I paid  him* 
Such  treatment  had  been  productive  of  a tinge  of  misanthropy  ; and 
it  was  not  until  after  long  acquaintance  that  he  gave  me  his  entire 
confidence.  As  this  acquaintance  continued  for  many  years,  (even 
as  long  as  he  lived,)  and  as  he  was  a sharer  of  my  various  adven- 
tures, I shall  have  frequent  occasion  to  mention  his  name  in  connex- 
ion with  my  own,  while  narrating  them. 

My  other  man  had  been  a Prussian  grenadier.  Pie  bad  served  in 
the  army  of  the  Duke  of  Brunswick,  at  the  time  of  his  invading  Hol- 
land to  restore  the  authority  of  the  Stadtholder,  and  in  other  cam- 
paigns ; but,  having  a dislike  to  the  profession,  he  had  deserted,  and 
had  been,  about  eighteen  months,  a sailor  in  English  vessels.  Dur- 
ing this  time  he  had  not  acquired  such  a knowledge  of  steering  that 
we  could  leave  him  at  the  helm  without  watching  him  ; and  however 
brave  he  may  have  been  in  the  ranks,  he  was  the  veriest  coward  im- 
aginable, when  called  to  the  performance  of  duties  aloft.  In  addi- 
tion to  this  incapacity,  he  possessed  a most  ungovernable  temper  ; and, 
being  a powerful  man,  we  had  considerable  difficulty  in  keeping  him, 
at  all  times,  in  a state  of  subordination  ; a difficulty  which  was,  in 
some  degree,  augmented  by  his  very  imperfect  knowledge  of  our 
language,  and  the  consequent  embarrassment  he  found  in  making 
himself  understood. 

The  last,  as  well  as  least  of  our  numbers,  was  a little  French  boy 
of  fourteen  years,  who  possessed  all  the  vivacity  peculiar  to  his  coun- 
trymen, and  who,  having  been  some  time  on  board  the  Carmagnole 
and  other  privateers,  had  acquired  many  of  the  tricks  of  a finished 
man-of-war’s  man.  Some  months’  residence  in  an  English  prison 
had  given  him  the  command  of  a few  English  words ; but  they  were 
not  of  a selection  that  indicated  much  care  in  the  teacher. 


ANECDOTES  OF  GEO ROE. 


53 


It  was  not  uncommon  for  George,  tire  Prussian  grenadier,  and  the 
French  boy,  to  get  into  a warm  debate  on  the  relative  merits  of  their 
respective  countries ; for  they  were  all  men  of  great  vivacity  and 
patriotism;  and  sometimes  (probably  from  not  understanding  each 
other)  they  would  become  so  angry  as  to  render  it  necessary  for  the 
mate  to  interfere  to  restore  tranquillity.  At  such  moments  I used  to 
think,  that  if  Hogarth  could  have  been  an  observer,  his  genius  would 
have  done  justice  to  the  group.  It  may  fairly  be  presumed,  however, 
that  such  a ship’s  company,  for  an  India  voyage,  was  never  before 
seen,  and,  moreover,  that  “ we  ne’er  shall  look  upon  its  like  again.” 

For  several  days  after  passing  the  Isle  of  Ushant,  the  wind  was 
light  f rom  north-west  and  west-north-west,  accompanied  with  a heavy 
swell  from  that  quarter;  and  though  our  progress  was,  in  consequence, 
slow,  it  was  proportionally  comfortable.  Before  we  had  reached  the 
latitude  of  Cape  Finisterre,  the  light  wind,  before  which  we  had 
been  sailing  with  all  our  canvass  spread,  died  away,  and  left  us,  some 
hours,  becalmed.  During  this  time  one  of  our  pigs  had  got  over- 
board, and  was  swimming  away  from  the  vessel.  George,  being  an 
excellent  swimmer,  did  not  hesitate  to  go  after  him  ; but  when  he 
had  caught  him,  at  the  distance  from  us  of  about  twenty  fathoms,  a 
light  puff  of  wind,  termed  by  seamen  a cat’s-paw,  took  the  sails 
aback,  and  suddenly  increased  our  distance  from  George,  who,  per- 
ceiving it,  and  becoming  alarmed,  let  go  the  pig,  and  swam  for  the 
vessel,  crying  out  lustily,  as  he  approached,  “ I dead,  I dead.”  As 
he  had  not  been  long  in  the  water,  nor  used  such  exertion  as  to  cause 
extraordinary  exhaustion,  I was  apprehensive  that  he  might  be  at- 
tacked by  a shark.  We  threw  towards  him  a spar,  and  set  imme- 
diately about  clearing  away  the  boat ; but  before  we  could  be  ready 
to  launch  it,  George  had  seized  the  spar,  and,  by  its  aid,  had  succeed- 
ed in  getting  along-side.  When  taken  on  board  he  did  not  hesitate 
to  express  his  belief  that  our  going  from  him  was  intentional,  and 
that,  had  the  breeze  continued,  we  should  have  left  him  for  the  pur- 
pose of  saving  his  wages.  Nor  was  it  until  after  long  experience, 
and  repeatedly  receiving  his  wages,  when  due,  that  he  would  acknowl- 
edge that  he  had  judged  me  erroneously. 

The  day  succeeding  this  adventure  we  had  another,  which  had 
nearly  brought  our  voyage  to  a close.  Early  in  the  morning  we  fell 
5* 


54 


F!  RST  VOYAGE. 


m with  the  British  frigate,  Stag.  The  wind  was  so  light,  and  its 
.nfluence  on  the  manoeuvres  of  the  ship  so  counteracted  by  a deep 
and  hollow  sweil,  that,  getting  sternway,  her  counter  came  in  con- 
tact with  our  broadside  with  a tremendous  force,  which  threatened 
•immediate  destruction,  and  which  must  have  been  the  result,  but  for 
the  order  instantly  given  and  obeyed,  to  u fill  away.”  This  saved 
us  from  a second  shock  ; and  we  were  happy  to  perceive  we  had  re- 
ceived no  other  damage  than  that  of  breaking  the  rail.  The  officer  of 
the  frigate  very  politely  offered  to  send  their  carpenter  on  board  to  re- 
pair this  ; but  I declined,  from  my  desire  of  not  losing  a moment’s 
time  in  advancing  towards  those  latitudes  where  gales  of  wind  were 
of  less  frequent  occurrence.  When  we  were  released  from  this  visit, 
the  mate  immediately  set  about  exercising  his  ingenuity  as  carpenter  ; 
and,  with  great  application,  he  completed  the  repairs,  in  a workman- 
like manner, .on  the  third  day  after  meeting  the  accident. 

We  had  now  advanced  far  into  the  second  week  of  our  departure. 
The  wind,  though  light,  was  fair,  and  the  prospect  was  favorable  for 
the  continuance  of  good  weather.  These  encouraging  circumstances 
led  me  to  hope  that  we  should  reach  the  tropical  latitudes  without 
encountering  a gale,  and  also  without  meeting,  what  was  more  to  be 
dreaded,  any  one  of  those  Spanish  or  French  privateers,  which  had 
frequented  the  track  we  were  passing,  and  whose  conduct,  in  many 
instances,  to  defenceless  merchant  vessels,  had  nearly  equalled  that 
of  the  ancient  buccaneers. 

We  had  passed  by  many  vessels,  hut  had  carefully  avoided  speak- 
ing with  any  one.  At  length,  on  a very  fine  morning,  as  the  sun 
rose,  and  when  we  were  about  fifty  leagues  west  of  Cadiz,  we  per- 
ceived a small  sail  in  the  northwest.  At  ten  o’clock  she  was  equally 
plain  to  be  seen  ; and  by  noon  we  were  satisfied  she  was  in  chase  of, 
and  was  gaining  on  us.  We  kept  steadily  on  our  course,  hoping  that 
an  increase  of  wind  would  give  us  an  advantage,  or  that  some  other- 
object  might  divert  their  attention.  But  our  hopes  were  fallacious. 
The  wind  rather  decreased  ; and  when  this  was  the  case,  we  observ- 
ed she  appeared  to  approach  us  faster.  By  two  o’clock  we  perceived 
she  had  latteen  sails,  and  hence  had  no  doubt  of  her  being  a privateer. 
Soon  after  she  began  to  fire  at  us,  but  the  balls  fell  much  short.  As 
the  wind  continued  very  light,  it  was  soon  apparent  that  we  could 


BOARDED  FROM  A FRENCH  PRIVATEER. 


55 


not  escape,  as  we  perceived  that  her  progress  was  accelerated  by 
means  of  a multitude  of  sweeps.  To  run  any  longer  would  only  have 
been  incurring  the  risk  of  irritating  the  captain  of  the  buccaneer  ; we 
therefore  rounded  to,  and  prepared  to  be  plundeied. 

As  they  came  up  with  us,  about  five  o’clock,  they  gave  such  a 
shout  of  “ Bonne  prise  ! bonne  prise  ! ” as  would  be  expected  from 
banditti  subject  to  no  control ; but  I felt  considerable  relief  in  the 
persuasion  that,  as  their  flag  indicated,  they  were  French,  and  not 
Spanish.  After  the  shouting  had  ceased,  I was  ordered,  in  very  coarse 
terms,  to  hoist  out  my  boat  and  come  on  board  with  my  papers.  I 
replied  that  I had  not  men  sufficient  to  put  out  the  boat.  The  order 
was  reiterated,  accompanied  with  a threat  of  firing  into  us.  I then 
sent  my  men  below,  and  waited  the  result,  which  was,  that  they  got 
out  their  own  boat.  The  officer,  who  came  on  board,  I suppose  to 
have  been  the  captain  himself,  from  the  circumstance  of  his  being  a 
very  intelligent  man,  and  from  my  presence  not  being  required  on 
board  the  privateer.  A cursory  examination  of  our  papers  convinced 
him  of  our  neutral  character  ; and  the  exhibition  of  a passport  with 
a seal  and  signature  of  one  high  in  authority  in  the  French  govern- 
ment, while  it  astonished,  seemed  also  to  satisfy  him,  that  the  less 
trouble  and  detention  he  gave  us,  the  better;  as  he  immediately 
ordered  his  ruffians  to  desist  from  clearing  away  for  opening  the 
hatches,  which  they  had  already  begun,  and  to  go  on  board  their 
boat,  where,  after  wishing  me  a good  voyage,  and  regretting  the  de- 
tention he  had  caused,  he  joined  them ; and  they  returned  to  their 
privateer  and  sailed  in  pursuit  of  other  adventures. 

The  result  of  this  rencontre  was  better  than  I had  anticipated  ; 
aware,  as  I was,  of  the  general  insubordination  on  board  of  vessels 
of  this  description.  I had  feared,  that  even  if  the  chief  had  been 
disposed  to  prevent  his  men  from  plundering,  it  would  not  have  been 
in  his  power ; and  I was  much  relieved  by  finding  myself  mistaken. 

Pursuing  a course  for  the  Cape  de  Verde  Islands,  we  came  in.  sight 
of  them  the  thirtieth  day  from  leaving  Havre.  It  was  my  intention 
to  stop  at  Port  Praya,  to  obtain  a supply  of  fruit  and  vegetables ; but 
I was  prevented  by  a gale  of  wind,  in  which  we  lay  to  twelve  hours, 
and  nan  a fair  opportunity  of  testing  the  good  properties  of  the  vessel 
for  this  important  purpose.  This  was  the  only  gale  of  any  severity 


56 


FIRST  VOYAGE. 


that  we  experienced  during  tne  passage ; and,  as  evidence  that  it  was 
of  no  inconsiderable  violence,  a ship  came  into  the  Cape  of  Good 
Hope  three  days  after  our  arrival  there,  which  had  lost  her  mizzen 
mast  in  the  same  gale. 

It  is  well  known  to  all  who  have  crossed  the  ocean,  and  may  easily 
be  imagined  by  those  who  have  not,  that  a passage  at  sea  presents  to 
the  observer  little  else,  from  day  to  day,  than  the  same  unbounded, 
and  (in  tropical  climes)  unvaried  horizon;  the  same  abyss  of  waters, 
agitated,  more  or  less,  as  it  is  acted  upon  by  the  wind;  the  same 
routine  of  duties  to  be  performed  onboard,  which,  in  the  trade  winds, 
have  seldom  even  the  ordinary  excitement  caused  by  reducing  and 
making  sail ; and  when  this  monotonous  round  is  interrupted  by 
speaking  a vessel,  by  catching  a porpoise,  or  by  seeing  a whale,  the 
incident  is  seized  with  avidity  as  an  important  item  to  be  inserted  in 
the  ship’s  log-book,  or  journal  of  the  day’s  transaction. 

As  our  experience  was  of  this  kind,  I have  only  to  notice  that  we 
crossed  the  equator  in  the  longitude  of  25°;  and  that  we  met  with 
no  occurrence,  worthy  of  note,  from  the  time  of  our  leaving  the 
Cape  de  Verde  Islands  to  our  arrival  at  the  Cape  of  Good  Hope,  ex- 
cepting that  one  night,  when  going  before  the  wind  with  a strong 
breeze,  the  Prussian  soldier  brought  over  the  main  boom  with  such 
violence  as  to  part  the  sheet,  and  rouse  all  hands  from  their  slumbers. 
As  there  was  a considerable  sea,  it  was  not  without  great  difficulty 
and  risk  that  the  boom  was  again  secured. 

After  passing  the  equator,  we  discovered  that  one  of  our  casks  of 
water  had  nearly  leaked  out;  and,  having  failed  to  fill  up  the  empty 
ones,  it  was  doubtful  if  we  had  sufficient  to  carry  us  to  the  Isle  of 
France.  This  consideration,  and  the  desire  of  obtaining  refreshments 
and  a short  respite  from  the  fatigue  and  anxiety  of  such  a passage, 
determined  me  to  stop  at  the  Cape  ; as  I believed,  also,  that  our  car- 
go might  be  sold  advantageously  there. 

Shaping  our  course  accordingly,  we  came  in  sight  of  the  Table 
Mount  on  the  21st  March,  1798,  just  three  months  from  the  time  of 
our  leaving  Havre.  Wo  were  so  near  in  before  dark  as  to  perceive 
that  we  were  signalled  at  the  lion’s  head,  but  were  not  able  to  reach 
the  anchorage  until  between  nine  and  ten  o’clock  in  the  evening.  We  had 
scarcely  dropped  our  anchor,  when  we  were  boarded  by  a man-of- 


ARRIVE  AT  THE  CAPE  OF  GOOD  HOPE. 


57 


war’s  boat;  the  officer  of  which,  finding  we  were  from  France,  im- 
mediately hurried  me  ashore,  in  my  sea  garb,  to  see  the  Admiral, 
(Sir  Hugh  C.  Christian,)  who,  surrounded  by  a group  of  naval  offi- 
cers, appeared  very  earnest  for  such  European  news  as  I could  give 
them.  After  passing  nearly  an  hour  with  the  Admiral,  who  treated 
me  with  great  civility,  and  answering  the  many  questions  which  were 
asked  by  the  company,  the  officer  who  took  me  from  my  vessel  was 
desired  to  convey  me  on  board  again  ; an  hour  having  been  previously 
named  by  the  Admiral  at  which  I was  to  meet  him,  the  next  morn- 
ing, at  the  government-house. 

The  arrival  of  such  a vessel  from  Europe  naturally  excited  the 
curiosity  of  the  inhabitants  of  the  Cape ; and  the  next  morning, 
being  calm,  we  had  numerous  visitors  on  board,  who  could  not  dis- 
guise their  astonishment  at  the  size  of  the  vessel,  the  boyish  appear- 
ance of  the  master  and  mate,  the  queer  and  unique  characters  of  the 
two  men  and  boy  who  constituted  the  crew,  and  the  length  of  the 
passage  we  had  accomplished. 

Various  were  the  conjectures  of  the  good  people  of  the  Cape,  as  to 
the  real  object  of  our  enterprise.  While  some  among  them  viewed 
it  in  its  true  light,  that  of  a commercial  speculation,  others  believed 
that,  under  this  mask,  we  were  employed  by  the  French  govern- 
ment for  the  conveyance  of  their  despatches  ; and  some  even  went 
so  far  as  to  declare  a belief  that  we  were  French  spies,  and,  as  such, 
deserving  of  immediate  arrest  and  confinement.  Indeed,  our  enter- 
prise formed  the  principal  theme  of  conversation  at  the  Cape  during 
the  week  subsequent  to  our  arrival. 

At  the  hour  appointed  I presented  myself  at  the  government-house, 
and  was  introduced  to  the  Governor,  Lord  Macartney,  in  whose  com- 
pany I found,  also,  the  Admiral.  There  was  so  much  urbanity  and 
affability  in  the  reception  I met  with  from  the  Governor  as  well  as 
the  Admiral,  that  it  inspired  me  with  confidence,  and  prevented  my 
feeling  any  embarrassment.  The  Governor  very  politely  handed  me 
a chair;  and,  seated  between  these  two  distinguished  men,  I was  pre 
pared  to  answer,  to  the  best  of  my  knowledge,  such  questions  as  they 
should  ask  me,  and  to  give  them  all  the  late  information  respecting 
European  affairs  that  my  residence  in  that  country,  and  my  recent 
departure,  enabled  me  to  do.  It  was  just  at  this  period  that  the  flo- 


58 


FIRST  VOYAGE. 


ti  1 la.  were  assembling  in  the  ports  of  the  channel  for  the  invasion  of 
England  ; and  on  this  subject,  in  particular,  they  were  very  earnest 
to  obtain  information,  seeming  to  be  not  without  apprehension  that 
an  invasion  was  really  intended.  While  I related  to  them  what  had 
come  under  my  own  observation  with  regard  to  the  preparation, 
and  what  I had  heard  from  others,  I expressed  to  them  my  belief, 
founded  on  the  desperate  nature  of  the  undertaking,  that  nothing 
more  was  intended  by  it  than  to  keep  England  in  a state  of  alarm, 
and  to  cause  a corresponding  increase  of  expenses. 

Having  interrogated  me  to  their  satisfaction  on  the  political  affairs 
of  France,  they  adverted  to  the  more  humble  business  of  the  object 
of  my  enterprise,  which  the  Admiral  did  not  hesitate  to  declare  he 
believed  to  be  for  the  conveyance  of  despatches  for  the  French  govern- 
ment ; and,  in  this  belief,  informed  me  that  he  should  take  measures 
to  prevent  my  going  to  the  Isle  of  France.  At  the  same  time,  and 
as  an  additional  evidence  of  this  persuasion,  he  had  ordered  that  a 
search  should  be  made  on  board  my  vessel  for  the  supposed  despatch- 
es, and  that  all  the  papers  and  letters  found  on  board  should  be 
brought  to  him.  Consequently  my  journal,  book  of  accounts,  and 
private  letters  and  papers  were  submitted  to  his  inspection  ; and  the 
letters  I had  for  French  gentlemen  in  the  Mauritius  were  all  broken 
open. 

On  the  conclusion  of  my  visit  to  the  Governor,  who  gave  me  per- 
mission to  dispose  of  my  cargo  here  if  I desired,  I went  to  the  house 
of  an  old  acquaintance,  where  I had  lodged  in  a former  voyage,  and 
in  what  he  considered  more  propitious  times.  Both  he  and  his  family 
seemed  glad  to  see  me,  and  invited  me  to  take  up  lodgings  there 
again  ; but  the  safety  of  my  vessel  required  my  presence  on  board 
not  less  in  port  than  at  sea,  and  I therefore  declined. 

The  day  following,  my  papers  and  letters  were  returned  to  me  by 
the  secretary  of  the  Admiral ; and  I was  surprised  by  a proposition 
from  him  for  the  purchase  of  my  vessel.  I delayed  giving  an  answer 
until  the  next  day  ; and  in  the  mean  time  my  inquiries  led  me  to 
believe  that  my  cargo  would  sell  advantageously  ; but  there  was 
nothing  but  specie  which  would  answer  my  purpose  to  take  away  for 
it,  and  this  was  prohibited.  With  a provision  for  the  removal  of  this 
difficulty,  and  a good  price  for  my  vessel,  I was  prepared  to  negotiate 


SALE  OF  CARGO. 


59 


wffii  the  secretary.  Meeting  him,  therefore,  at  the  time  appointed, 
and  both  being  what  in  trade  is  called  off-hand  men,  we  soon  ciosed 
the  bargain,  by  his  engaging  to  pay  me,  on  delivery  of  the  Caroline 
and  stores,  five  thousand  Spanish  dollars,  and  to  obtain  for  me  per- 
mission to  export  ten  thousand.  This  so  far  exceeded  the  cost  of  the 
vessel,  and  was  even  so  much  more  than  I had  expected  to  receive 
at  the  Isle  of  France,  that  I considered  myself  already  well  indemni- 
fied for  all  my  trouble  and  anxiety. 

As  the  Admiral  was  pressing  to  have  the  vessel  discharged,  it  was 
my  intention  to  land  the  cargo,  next  day,  on  my  own  account ; hut. 
in  the  mean  time,  I contracted  with  the  merchant,  at  whose  house  I 
now  resided,  for  the  whole  of  it,  at  a moderate  advance  on  the  invoice  : 
it  being  agreed  that  he  was  to  pay  the  duties,  the  expense  of  landing, 
&c.  My  spirits  were  now  much  elevated  with  my  success,  and  with 
the  prospect  of  soon  being  rid  of  the  Caroline  and  of  the  care  insep- 
arable from  having  such  a vessel,  so  circumstanced. 

But  I was  allowed  but  a short  period  to  my  exultation  ; new  and 
alarming  difficulties  awaited  me,  of  which  I had  no  suspicion,  and 
which  were  more  harassing  than  the  dangers  of  the  winds  and  the 
waves.  It  appeai’ed  that  the  duties  on  entries  at  the  custom-house 
were  a percentage  on  the  invoice,  and  that  it  was  a very  common 
piactice  with  the  merchants  to  make  short  entries.  The  purchaser 
was  aware  that,  to  stand  on  equal  footing  with  other  merchants,  he 
must  do  as  they  did  ; but  he  seems  not  to  have  reflected  that,  being 
known  to  be  more  hostile  to  the  English  government  than  any  other 
individual  at  the  Cape,  he  would  be  rigidly  watched,  and,  if  detected, 
would  have  less  indulgence  than  any  other.  The  consequence  was 
a detection  of  the  short  entry  and  seizure  of  vessel  and  cargo.  The 
merchant  went  immediately,  in  a supplicating  mood,  to  the  collector, 
in  the  hope  of  arranging  the  affair  before  it  should  become  generally 
known  ; but  it  was  all  in  vain. 

The  only  alternative  which  seemed  now  to  be  left  me,  was  to 
anpeal  to  the  highest  authority  ; and  I determined  to  write  to  Lord 
Macartney,  and  prove  to  him  that,  by  my  contract  for  the  sale  of  the 
cargo,  the  duties  were  not  to  be  paid  by  me,  and  that,  consequently,  I 
should  have  derived  no  benefit  had  the  attempt  for  evading  them  suc- 
ceeded ; but  that,  on  the  other  hand,  if  the  vessel  and  cargo  were  to 


60 


FIRST  VOYAGE. 


be  confiscated,  I shquld  be  the  sufferer,  as  .t  was  doubtful  if  the 
merchant  could  make  good  the  loss.  I hoped  that  he  might  thus  be 
induced  to  advise  a less  severe  course  than  the  collector  intended  to 
pursue.  But  how  to  write  a suitable  letter  embarrassed  me.  I had 
no  friend  with  whom  to  advise.  1 was  entirely  ignorant  of  the  manner 
of  addressing  a nobleman,  and  at  the  same  time  was  aware  of  the 
necessity  of  doing  it  with  propriety.  In  this  dilemma,  I remembered 
to  have  seen,  in  an  old  magazine  on  board,  some  letters  addressed  to 
noblemen.  These  I sought  as  models  ; and  they  were  a useful  guide 
to  me.  After  I had  completed  my  letter  in  my  best  hand,  and 
enclosed  it  in  a neat  envelope,  I showed  it  to  the  Admiral’s  secretary, 
who  appeared  to  be  friendly  to  me.  He  approved  of  it,  and  advised 
my  taking  it  myself  to  his  Lordship  immediately. 

As  the  schoolboy  approaches  his  master  after  having  played  truant, 
so  did  l approach  Lord  Macartney  on  this  occasion.  I delivered  my 
letter  to  him;  and,  after  hastily  reading  it,  he  sternly  said,  “ he  could 
not  interfere  in  the  business ; there  were  the  laws,  and  if  they  had 
been  infringed,  the  parties  concerned  must  abide  the  consequence ; ” 
but  added,  “ he  would  speak  to  the  collector  on  the  subject.”  This 
addition,  delivered  in  rather  a milder  tone,  led  me  to  encourage  the 
hope  that  the  affair  would  not  end  so  disastrously  as  if  left  entirely 
to  the  discretion  of  the  collector.  Nor  were  my  hopes  unfounded  ; 
as,  the  next  day,  the  vessel,  and  that  part  of  the  cargo  yet  remaining 
on  board,  were  restored  to  me  ; while  the  portion  in  possession  of  the 
collector  was  to  be  adjudged  in  the  fiscal  court,  where  it  was  event- 
ually condemned,  to  the  amount  of  about  two  thousand  dollars.* 
The  success  of  my  letter  was  a theme  of  public  conversation  in  the 
town,  and  was  the  means  of  procuring  me  the  acquaintance  of  several 
individuals  of  the  first  respectability. 

The  delay,  caused  by  this  controversy  with  the  collector,  was  un- 
favorable to  the  views  of  the  Admiral,  who  began  to  evince  symptoms 
of  impatience,  and  would,  probably,  have  taken  out  the  cargo  with  his 
own  men,  if  we  had  not  set  about  it  with  earnestness  as  soon  as  the 
vessel  was  released  from  seizure.  Having,  the  day  following,  com- 
pleted the  unlading,  I delivered  the  vessel  to  the  officer  who  was  am 


* As  a favor  to  tlie  merchant,  I consented  to  share  the  loss  with  him. 


SALE  OF  VESSEL. 


61 


thorized  to  take  possession.  In  two  days  after,  she  was  expedited,  with 
a lieutenant  and  competent  number  of  men  (I  believe  for  India)  j 
and,  in  a subsequent  voyage,  I learned  that  she  had  never  been  heard 
of  afterwards.  It  is  probable  that  the  officer  in  charge,  having  been 
accustomed  only  to  large  and  square-rigged  vessels,  was  not  aware 
of  the  delicacy  of  management  which  one  so  small  and  differently 
rigged,  required  ; and  to  this  her  loss  may  be  attributed. 

The  various  drawbacks  on  my  cargo,  arising  from  seizure,  some 
damage,  and  some  abatement,  reduced  the  net  proceeds  to  about  the 
original  cost.  This,  with  the  amount  of  the  vessel,  I collected  in 
Spanish  dollars,  making  together,  after  my  various  disbursements,  the 
sum  of  eleven  thousand  dollars,  which  I kept  in  readiness  to  embark 
in  the  first  vessel  that  should  enter  the  bay  on  her  way  to  India  or 
China.  I was  obliged,  however,  to  wait  several  months  before  any 
such  chance  offered.  In  the  mean  time  my  long  residence  and 
leisure  at  the  Cape  afforded  me  the  opportunity  of  becoming  acquaint- 
ed with  many  families,  and  of  visiting  many  places  in  the  vicinity  of 
Cape  Town. 


CHAPTER  IV. 


Description  of  the  Cape  — Of  the  Town  — Effects  of  Southeast  Wind  — Devil’s  Table 
Cloth  Season  of  Westerly  Gales  — Dangerous  to  the  Shipping  — Loss  of  the 
Sceptre  Loss  of  Ship  J efferson  ■ — Notice  of  the  Inhabitants  — Their  Feelings  under 
the  actual  Government  — Simon’s  Bay  — Constantia  — Signal  Hill  — Residence  and 
Resource  of  the  Man  stationed  there  • — Table  Mountain  — The  Ascent  and  View 
therefrom  “Perilous  Situation  — Mode  of  Rescue  “ Descent  and  Return  to  Town. 


of  Good  Hope  is  very  remarkable  in  its  form* 
ation ; so  much  so,  as  to  make  .a  lasting  impression 
on  the  memory  of  those  who  have  once  seen  it. 
The  group  of  lofty  and  steep  hills,  called  the  Devil's 
Mount,  the  Table-Land,  the  .Sugar-loaf,  and  the 
Lion’s  Rump,  form  a barrier  on  the  south  and 
the  east  sides  of  the  town,  which  appears  almost 
impassable.  On  a plain,  at  the  foot  of  these  hills,  and 
on  the  border  of  Table  Bay,  is  situated  the  beautiful  town 
of  the  Cape.  It  presents  a fine  appearance  when  seen 
from  the  bay,  and  seems  to  possess  all  that  neatness  which 
is  an  acknowledged  characteristic  of  the  Dutch.  The  streets 
are  parallel  to  each  other,  and  are  kept  very  clean.  There 
is  a large  square  for  a parade  ground,  at  the  north  part  of  the 
town,  which  is  bounded  by  a canal  bordered  with  a double 
row  of  trees.  The  Company’s  garden,  as  it  is  called,  is  a space  of 
fifteen  or  twenty  acres  on  the  east  side  of  the  town.  It  is  enclosed 
by  a wall,  and  laid  out  in  handsome  walks,  and  forms  one  of  the 
most  delightful  lounges  in  the  world.  In  a retired  part  of  this  garden, 
and  almost  hidden  with  trees,  is  the  residence  of  the  Governor. 
Most  of  the  houses  consist  of  two  stories,  and  are  covered  with  plas- 
ter ; which  being  whitewashed  every  year,  they  have  an  uncommonly 
neat  appearance. 


DESCRIPTION  OF  THE  CAPE. 


63 


During  the  summer  months  the  inhabitants  are  greatly  annoyed  by 
the  clouds  of  sand  which  are  raised  by  the  southeast  wind,  which  is 
often  so  violent  as  to  compel  them  to  keep  within  doors,  and  pene- 
trates into  all  the  crevices  of  doors  and  windows  which  have  not  been 
carefully  closed.  These  gales,  which  last  two  or  three  days,  are  fol- 
lowed by  calms  and  light  variable  winds  for  the  same  length  of  time. 
During  these  gales,  and  for  some  time  before,  the  top  of  the  table- 
land is  enveloped  in  thick  clouds,  which  the  people  of  the  Cape  call 
the  Devil's  Table-cloth.  Although  these  winds  are  often  so  violent 
as  to  prevent  communication  with  the  shipping  in  the  bay,  yet  they 
are  rarely  the  cause  of  any  disaster.  Not  so  with  the  westerly  gales, 
which  prevail  in  the  months  of  June,  July,  and  August,  and  bring  in  a 
sea  which  it  is  impossible  to  resist. 

A melancholy  instance  of  the  power  of  these  gales  was  seen  in 
the  loss  of  the  English  sixty-four-gun  ship  Sceptre,  with  nearly  all 
her  crew.  The  Dutch  East  Indiamen  were  exclusively  confined  to 
the  use  of  Simon’s  Bay  at  this  season  of  the  year.  In  times  of  peace 
it  was  common  for  the  vessels  of  all  nations,  on  their  way  to  and 
from  India,  to  touch  at  this  place  for  refreshments ; and  then,  almost 
every  house  was  open  for  the  reception  of  the  captains  and  officers 
for  a moderate  compensation.  But  the  vexations,  experienced  by 
neutral  commerce  at  this  period,  were  enough  to  discourage  most 
navigators  from  stopping  there.  While  I was  there,  the  ship  Jeffer- 
son of  Boston  was  compelled  to  come  in  from  having  been  six  months 
on  her  way  from  Boston  to  India.  The  suspicions  of  the  government 
were  roused  ; and,  not  satisfied  with  the  examination  of  the  log-book 
and  papers,  they  caused  her  to  be  entirely  unladed.  And  although  she 
was  at  length  released,  yet  before  she  could  get  away,  a gale  came  on 
from  the  west,  in  which  she  went  ashore  and  was  totally  lost. 

The  climate  of  the  Cape  is  very  healthy ; which  blessing  many  of 
the  inhabitants  attr.bute  to  the  prevalence  of  the  high  winds  ; yet  it 
is  observed  that  instances  of  longevity  are  very  rare,  and  that  few 
old  persons  are  met  with.  The  native  citizens  are,  for  the  most  part, 
hospitable,  friendly,  and  affable.  A love  of  ease  and  relaxation,  and 
an  aversion  to  much  activity  of  body  or  mind,  are  striking  character- 
istics in  the  men.  The  ladies  are,  generally,  very  pretty,  have  fine 
complexmns,  graceful  and  pleasing  manners,  and  cultivated  minds 


64 


FIRST  VOYAGE. 


The  invariable  and  universal  siesta  causes  a midnight  silence  and  seclu 
sion  for  the  two  or  three  hours  immediately  succeeding  dinner.  AH 
the  domestics,  and  most  of  the  mechanics,  are  slaves  ; and,  as  far  as 
I had  an  opportunity  of  observing,  they  are  treated  with  more  human- 
ity than  is  generally  supposed.  Notwithstanding  the  increase  of 
buildings,  and  the  rise  in  value  of  real  estate,  as  well  as  various 
other  advantages,  felt  by  the  inhabitants  since  they  submitted  to  the 
English  government,  there  was,  nevertheless,  observable  in  many  an 
impatience  of  a foreign  yoke,  a feeling  of  being  a conquered  people, 
and  a sense  of  degradation,  which  was  very  natural,  and  which  would 
not  be  easily  effaced  even  under  the  mild  and  equitable  government  of 
the  English. 

In  company  with  a native  merchant  I made  an  excursion  to  Simon’s 
Bay,  and  to  the  pretty  estate  of  Constantia.  Not  being  able  to  procure 
lodgings  on  shore,  we  passed  a night  on  board  an  American  ship, 
which,  together  with  several  English  men-of-war  and  Indiamen,  was 
lying  for  security  in  Simon’s  Bay.  At  Constantia  we  were  entertained 
with  great  hospitality  and  politeness  by  the  proprietor,  who  showed  us 
every  part  of  his  beautiful  estate,  which,  for  extreme  neatness,  a3 
well  as  for  profit,  is  unrivalled.  The  wine  made  at  this  place  is 
well  known  in  Europe  and  in  the  United  States  ; though  it  is  said 
that  more  than  treble  the  quantity  produced  on  this  estate  is  annually 
sold  under  the  name  of  Constantia.  Its  peculiar  flavor  is  attributed 
to  the  properties  of  the  soil ; all  attempts  to  produce  the  same  else- 
where having  failed. 

An  excursion  to  the  flag-staff  on  Sugar-Loaf  Hill  was  an  after 
noon’s  labor  of  no  easy  accomplishment.  Before  reaching  the  top, 
there  are  several  perpendicular  precipices  of  ten  to  fifteen  feet  to 
climb  ; and  ropes  are  fastened  to  bolts,  inserted  in  the  rocks,  to  aid  the 
ascent.  The  man,  who  is  stationed  here  to  signal  the  approach  of 
vessels,  is  provided  with  a small  brass  cannon  and  several  flags ; the 
former  to  announce  a sail  in  the  horizon,  and,  at  the  same  time,  to 
attract  the  attention  of  the  citizens  ; the  latter  to  denote  the  kind  of 
vessel  and  the  nation  to  which  she  belongs.  By  these  means  informa- 
tion of  the  approach  of  a vessel  is  given  many  hours  before  her  ar- 
rival in  the  bay.  The  habitation  of  this  man  is  so  confined  that  his 
‘esidence  there  would  be  considered  a cruel  punishment,  were  it  not  vol 


TABLE  MOUNTAIN. 


65 


untary.  It  is  a mere  dog-kennel,  partly  formed  by  the  rock,  and 
partly  artificial,  but  barely  sufficient  to  shelter  one  person,  in  a sitting 
posture,  from  the  rays  of  the  sun  and  from  the  inclemency  of  the 
weather.  The  greatest  interior  space  does  not  exceed  five  feet,  from 
the  den  to  the  perpendicular  precipice.  A slave  brings  him  his  daily 
provisions  and  water;  and  this  is  the  only  opportunity  the  recluse  has 
for  conversation  during  the  dav.  My  visit  was,  therefore,  considered 
by  him  as  a kind  of  (Jod-send,  for  which  he  appeared  to  be  very 
grateful,  and  which  he  begged  me  to  repeat. 

The  excursion  over  the  Table  Mountain,  which  is  three  thousand 
five  hundred  and  eighty-two  feet  above  the  level  of  the  ocean,  was 
an  undertaking  of  such  labor  as  to  require  the  greater  part  of  a day 
to  perform  it.  It  was  advisable,  also,  on  many  considerations,  to 
make  up  a party  for  the  purpose.  Accordingly,  having  engaged  the 
mate  of  the  Jefferson,  and  my  own  mate,  to  accompany  me,  we  set 
out  together  on  a fine,  clear  morning,  provided  with  refreshments, 
but  without  a guide,  not  doubting,  with  the  information  given  us,  of 
being  able  to  find  onr  way.  We  met  with  no  embarrassment  in  reach- 
ing the  chasm,  on  one  side  of  which  were  the  craggy  and  irregular 
steps,  by  which  only  we  could  work  our  way  to  the  top.  The  task 
was  arduous,  and  required  two  hours  of  great  exertion  for  its  accom- 
plishment. The  day  continued  to  be  very  clear;  and  the  view  amply 
repaid  the  toil  of  the  ascent.  It  was  limited  on  the  north  by  high, 
irregular,  and  distant  mountains;  on  the  south  and  east  by  the  ocean, 
and  an  horizon  greatly  extended  ; on  the  west  by  the  bay  with  its 
shipping  diminished  to  the  size  of  such  toys  as  children  play  with  ; 
and  immediately  beneath  us  was  the  town,  its  gardens  and  streets, 
distinctly  seen,  though  its  inhabitants  could  not  be  distinguished  with 
the  unaided  eye. 

A large  part  of  the  day  was  passed  in  rambling  about  the  top  of 
the  mountain,  and  enjoying  the  extensive  and  beautiful  views  from  it; 
and  the  time  had  arrived  to  think  of  descending.  Desirous  of  return- 
ing by  a different  route,  i attempted  to  find  a new  one  in  a chasm, 
which,  from  the  imperfect  view  I could  take  of  it,  resembled  the  path 
we  had  ascended.  But  the  better  to  satisfy  myself,  with  great  diffi- 
culty and  imminent  danger  of  falling,  I climbed  down  a precipice  of 
about  twelve  feet,  and  found  myself  upon  a bridge  formed  by  the 
6* 


S6 


FIRST  VOYAGE. 


falling  away  of  the  rock  within  the  chasm,  and  extending  across 
about  twenty  feet.  Its  width  varied  from  two  to  four  feet ; and  it 
seemed,  where  narrowest,  as  if  any  additional  weight  would  cause  it 
to  give  way.  On  either  side,  and  beneath  this  bridge,  was  an  abyss, 
of  which  I could  scarcely  see  the  bottom  ; it  being  fifteen  hundred, 
or,  perhaps,  two  thousand  feet  deep.  I now  saw  plainly  that  I must 
return  by  the  way  I came  ; as,  at  the  other  end  of  the  bridge,  the 
height  was  the  same,  and  the  rocks  jutted  over.  I made  known  to  my 
companions  my  perilous  situation,  and  that  a slip  in  climbing  must  be 
attended  with  certain  destruction.  In  order,  therefore,  to  help  me 
up  again,  Mr.  Barnes  lay  on  the  ground,  and  held  his  jacket  over  the 
precipice,  while  the  mate  of  the  Jefferson  held  Barnes  to  prevent  his 
being  pulled  over.  With  this  management,  and  the  scanty  support  I 
could  find  for  my  feet,  I succeeded  in  gaining  the  summit,  and  in 
escaping  from  a situation  so  perilous,  that,  even  at  this  day,  I do  not 
recur  to  it  without  shuddering.  After  this  I attempted  no  more  to 
find  a new  way,  but  descended  as  we  had  come  up  ; and,  before 
sunset,  arrived  at  my  lodgings  very  much  fatigued. 


CHAPTER  V. 


Impatience  to  be  off — Embark  for  Batavia — Chased  by  a Brig — Outsail  her  — Ar 
rival  at  Batavia — Governor’s  Surprise  at  our  quick  Passage  — Hotel  — American 
Commerce  — Effect  of  the  Climate  on  Europeans  — Market  — The  Bay — Sharks 
and  Alligators  — No  Opportunity  to  freight  to  the  United  States  — Embark  for  China 
— Arrival  at  Macao  — A Typhon  — Lose  an  Anchor  — Arrive  at  Whampoa  — At 
Canton  — Embarrassment  as  to  next  Destination  — Arrival  and  Purchase  of  an 
English  Cutter  — Associates  in  the  Adventure  — Factories  — Recourse  of  Beggars 
to  compel  Alms  — Enter  the  City  — Result. 


£ than  four  months  had  elapsed  since  my 
arrival  at  the  Cape  ; and,  during  that  period,  no 
opportunity  had  offered  for  India.  My  impatience 
to  be  away  was  now  so  great,  that  I determined  to 
embrace  any  chance  that  presented  itself  for  going 
to  the  east,  without  regard  to  the  particular  place  ; 
and,  on  the  first  of  August,  the  brig  Betsey  having 
touched  in  the  bay,  in  a short  passage  from  Balti- 
more, bound  to  Batavia,  I embarked  in  this  vessel,  taking 
with  me  the  proceeds  of  my  vessel  and  cargo  in  Span- 
ish dollars.  I was  accompanied  by  my  black  man 
George,  for  whom  I had  contracted  an  attachment,  which 
was  evidently  reciprocal. 

The  day  after  leaving  the  Cape,  we  had  a strong  westerly 
wind  and  a considerable  sea,  and,  at  noon,  while  making 
rapid  progress  on  our  way,  we  discovered  a brig  standing 
on  a wind  across  us,  which  we  had  reason  to  suppose  was  a cruiser. 
As  our  vessel  was  a remarkably  swift  sailer,  we  decided  not  to  sub- 
mit to  the  trouble  and  detention  which  a visit  would  cause,  and  there- 
fore kept  steadily  on  our  course,  which,  being  towards  him,  induced 
the  belief  that  we  intended  to  speak  him,  and  prevented  the  prepara- 
tion he  would  have  made  had  he  known  our  intention.  When  just 


(58 


FIRST  VOYAGE. 


clear  of  gun  shot,  we  altered  our  course  two  points ; on  seeing! 
which  lie  immediately  fired,  and  instantly  set  about  getting  up  top* 
gallant  masts  and  yards,  and  crowding  all  sail  after  ua;  but  it  was 
like  the  tortoise  in  pursuit  of  the  hare.  Before  dark  his  hull  was  not 
to  he  seen. 

We  had  a continuance  of  the  strong  westerly  winds  until  we  enter- 
ed the  trades,  south  of  the  island  of  Java  ; and  our  arrival  at  Bata- 
via, on  the  first  of  September,  in  only  thirty  days  from  tire  Cape,  was 
a circumstance  so  extraordinary,  that  it  required  the  confirmation  of 
letters  which  we  carried  to  convince  the  Governor  of  the  fact. 

I took  rooms  at  the  great  public  hotel ; and  here,  as  well  as  in  other 
buildings  in  the  city,  there  were  traces  of  the  splendor  which  had 
attended  the  better  days  of  the  Dutch  East  India  Company.  The 
spacious  rooms  were  painted  in  a tawdry,  but  expensive  manner,  in 
red  and  gold,  or  blue  and  gold.  The  furniture  was  as  massive  and 
costly  as  it  could  be  made  ; a band  of  a dozen  slaves  always  played 
during  dinner  ; and  a multitude  of  servants,  shabbily  dressed,  were 
in  attendance.  Every  thing  about  the  establishment  indicated  an  at- 
tempt at  magnificence,  which  was  but  ill-supported  by  the  present 
state  of  Dutch  commerce. 

Most  of  the  strangers,  who-  then  visited  Batavia,  were  Americans  £ 
and  there  were  few,  or  none  of  them,  whose  appetites  required  the 
stimulus  of  a band,  or  who  had  sufficient  taste  for  oriental  luxuries 
to  be  willing  to  contribute  to  them  further  than  custom  rendered 
necessary. 

Batavia  is  built  on  a flat,  which  extends  ten  or  twelve  leagues. 
Most  of  its  streets  have  canals  of  stagnant  water,  which  are,  doubt- 
less, among  the  causes  of  the  fevers  so  prevalent  there;  as  these  are 
avoided  by  taking  a residence  five  or  six  miles  in  the  country.  The 
houses  generally  are  built  of  brick,  plastered  and  whitewashed  ; and 
the  apartments  .are  spacious  and  well-adapted  to  the  climate.  But, 
notwithstanding  all  their  luxuries,  most  of  the  residents  show,  by 
their  pallid  countenances  and  emaciated  figures,  that  they  are  sacri- 
ficing health  to  gain.  Yet  the  certainty  of  this  does  not  prevent  ad- 
venturers from  seeking  their  fortunes  there,  apparently  blinded  to 
consequences  by  the  eagerness  of  pursuit. 

The  Chinese  constitute  much  the  largest  and1  most  industrious  pars 


BATAVIA. 


69 


of  the  population.  They  inhabit  the  suburbs,  and  are  said  to  amount 
to  seventy  or  eighty  thousand.  The  domestics  are  principally  Malay 
slaves,  and  are  considered  much  less  docile  than  the  Africans.  The 
market  of  Batavia  is  well  supplied  with  all  the  delicious  fruits,  which 
are  peculiar  to  the  tropical  climates.  Pine-apples,  in  particular,  are 
very  abundant,  and  so  cheap  that  a hundred  may  be  obtained  for  a 
dollar.  Animal  food,  beef  and  mutton  particularly,  is,  as  in  most 
iropieal  countries,  generally  poor  and  without  flavor.  Fowls  are  very 
abundant  and  cheap.  The  natives  here,  as  in  India,  live  principally 
on  rice,  which  is  very  eheap  and  mueh  cultivated.  The  bay  is  spa- 
cious ; and  the  ships  ride  with  safety  therein,  screened  from  the  only 
wind  which  could  injure  them  by  seventeen  or  eighteen  very  pretty 
islands,  which  are  not  less  ornamental  than  serviceable.  The  alliga- 
tors and  sharks  are  very  numerous;  and  instances  are  related  of 
boats  being  upset  on  the  bar,  and  their  whole  crews  devoured  by 
them.*1  Those  whom  business  shall  lead  to  Batavia,  for  there  can 
be  no  other  inducement,  will  remain  there  no  longer  than  is  absolutely 
necessary. 

It  was  very  evident,  soon  after  my  arrival,  that  I need  only  be 
detained  until  I could  take  passage  for  China  ; for,  though  the  com- 
parative value  of  the  produce  of  tire  island  here  and  in  the  United 
States  offered  a profit  of  one  and  a half  to  two  capitals,  yet  there  was 
no  one  of  the  several  vessels  lying  here  which  could  take  freight;  all 
having  sufficient  capital  to  lade  on  their  own  account.  If  I could 
have  invested  the  amount  of  my  property  in  a freight  of  coffee,  for  the 
United  States,  I should  have  made  a very  short  and  lucrative  voyage. 
But  my  efforts  proving  unsuccessful  to  effect  this,  I took  advantage 
of  an  opportunity  which  was  offered  in  the  ship  Swift,  of  New  York, 
for  Canton,  after  having  spent  ten  days  at  Batavia.  For  I was  well 
aware,  that  though  I might  not  be  able  to  ship  such  bulky  articles  as 
coffee  or  sugar,  there  was  no  doubt  of  my  finding  room  enough  for 
She  fabrics  of  China,  in  which  a much  greater  capital  than  I possessed 
could  be  invested  so  as  to  occupy  but  a small  space. 

Having  removed  my  baggage  and  spee’e  from  the  Betsey  to  the 


* It  would  therefore  be  the  extreme  of  rashness  to  bathe  in  the  bay,  though  the 
nest  renders  the  desire  of  doing  so  very  strong. 


70 


FIRST  VOYAGE. 


Swift,  we  sailed  next  morning,  the  12th  of  September,  for  Canton,  in 
company  with  two  of  the  Danish  East  India  Company’s  ships,  the 
commanders  of  which  agreed  to  keep  company  with  us  through  the 
straits  of  Banca,  for  mutual  security  against  any  attack  of  the  Malay 
pirates.  Our  ships  sailed  so  nearly  alike,  that  no  day  passed  when 
we  were  not  within  speaking  distance  ; and  when  the  weather  was 
fine,  and  the  sea  smooth,  which  was  often  the  case,  we  exchanged 
visits.  The  commodore  had  a band  on  board  ; and  in  the  bright  moon- 
light evenings,  when  the  breeze  was  only  sufficient  to  keep  the  sails 
from  flapping  against  the  masts,  and  the  ripple  of  the  ship’s  passage 
through  the  waters  scarcely  heard,  the  music  of  this  band  was  so 
delightful,  that  it  even  now  brings  back  the  most  pleasing  associations, 
whenever  memory  retraces  the  incidents  of  this  passage. 

We  were  compelled,  by  calms  and  the  darkness  of  the  night,  to 
anchor  two  or  three  times  in  the  straits  of  Banca,  but  met  with  no 
embarrassment  from  pirates,  or  from  rocks  and  shoals.  It  was,  how- 
ever, apparent  that,  although  we  had  taken  care  to  keep  well  to  the 
eastward,  we  only  secured  our  passage  ; having  taken  the  northeast 
wind  so  many  days  before  our  arrival,  that  we  with  difficulty  gained 
the  anchorage  in  Macao  roads.  The  three  ships  arrived  at  this 
place  within  a few  hours  of  each  other,  after  a passage  of  thirty-one 
days  from  Batavia. 

The  Danish  ships,  having  agents  at  Macao,  procured  pilots,  and 
proceeded  to  Whampoa  without  delay  ; but  we  were  not  so  for- 
tunate as  to  obtain  a pilot,  and  were  obliged,  in  consequence,  to 
wait  a week  in  the  roads.  During  this  period  we  encountered  a 
typhon,  which  blew  with  such  violence,  and  caused  such  a sea, 
that,  although  our  yards  and  topmast  were  struck,  we  parted  a cable, 
lost  an  anchor,  and  were  in  danger  of  being  driven  out  to  sea;  but, 
after  drifting  several  miles,  finally  brought  up  with  the  other  anchor. 
After  the  weather  became  again  settled,  it  was  judiciously  determined 
by  the  captain  to  remain  no  longer  in  so  exposed  a situation  ; and, 
having  procured  a fisherman  to  pilot  us  as  far  as  Anson’s  Bay,  which 
is  a safe  anchorage  at  the  entrance  of  the  river  Tigris,  we  arrived 
and  anchored  there,  without  further  embarrassment. 

Here,  Capta  n White  received  a letter  from  the  captain  of  the 
Ontario,  a ship  belonging  to  the  same  owners,  informing  him  of  his 


WHAMPOA. 


71 


safe  arrival  at  Whampoa,  and  the  exertions  he  was  making  to  send 
him  a pilot.  He  mentioned  that  he  was  in  want  of  a first  and  second 
officer.  This  circumstance  appeared  to  offer  a favorable  opening  for 
me  ; inasmuch  as,  if  I could  obtain  the  chief  mate’s  office,  the  privi- 
lege attached  to  it  would  insure  the  transport  of  all  my  property. 
I therefore  settled  it  in  my  mind  that  this  was  my  destination.  Hav- 
ing waited  three  days  more,  and  no  pilot  appearing,  Captain  White 
determined  to  go  up  to  Whampoa  in  his  own  boat ; and  I accom- 
panied him.  Soon  after  leaving  the  ship  we  were  overtaken  by  a 
heavy  shower,  which  wet  us  completely  through.  When  above 
second  bar,  towards  evening,  the  tide  set  so  strong  against  us,  that 
perceiving  we  made  no  headway,  we  determined  to  go  on  board  a 
Swedish  ship,  then  lying  at  the  bar,  and  there  wait  the  return  of  the 
flood.  We  were  received  with  great  hospitality,  and,  during  our  visit, 
were  treated  with  as  much  kindness  as  if  we  had  been  conferring, 
rather  than  receiving  a benefit.  We  remained  with  these  friendly 
people  until  ten  o’clock  in  the  evening,  when,  the  tide  having  turned, 
we  took  leave,  and  pursued  our  course  towards  Whampoa,  but,  unfor- 
tunately, by  mistaking  our  course,  and  getting  into  a wrong  branch 
of  the  river,  were  out  all  night,  and  did  not  arrive  on  board  the  Onta- 
rio before  eight  o’clock  in  the  morning.  A good  breakfast  renewed 
our  energies  for  pursuing  our  course  to  Canton,  where  I was  the 
more  anxious  to  arrive,  from  the  fear  that  the  office  I sought  might 
be  filled  by  another  before  my  arrival.  We  started,  therefore,  as 
soon  as  the  flood  tide  came  in.  Arriving  at  the  Ontario’s  factory,  I 
had  the  mortification  to  learn  from  the  commander  that  he  had  en- 
gaged an  officer  only  the  day  previous.  Thus,  this  resource  failed 
me.  As  I had  confidently  counted  upon  it,  and  as  fancy  had  been 
busy  in  anticipating  a meeting  with  my  friends  at  home  under  such 
favorable  circumstances,  my  disappointment  was  very  great. 

The  next  plan  was  to  freight  my  property  in  some  one  of  the 
American  ships  ; a thing,  usually,  of  very  easy  accomplishment ; but, 
«t  this  time,  it  was  not  practicable  at  such  a rate  as  I felt  myself  war- 
ranted in  paying.  It  then  occurred  to  me  that  I might  obtain  a small 
premium  on  my  money  to  Calcutta,  and  that  there  I should  be  able 
to  lay  in  an  investment  for  the  United  States,  and  freight  it  from 
thence  on  better  terms  than  I could  make  here.  With  this  impression 


72 


FIRST  VOYAGE. 


I was  about  contracting  with  the  captain  of  the  country  ship  Zoroas- 
ter to  let  him  have  my  money  on  respondentia,  and  to  embark  with 
him  for  Calcutta.  But  before  definitely  closing  this  negotiation,  a lit- 
tle English  cutter  arrived  at  Whampoa  from  the  Northwest  Coast  of 
America,  and  was  offered  for  sale.  This  suggested  to  me  an  enter- 
prise  which  would  be  attended  with  great  difficulties  and  dangers,  but 
which  offered  a prospect  of  fortune  in  proportion.  As  my  means  alone 
were  not  sufficient  to  buy  this  vessel  and  to  put  in  a cargo  suitable  for 
a voyage,  to  the  Northwest  Coast,  I engaged  the  assistance  of  Messrs. 
D.  Green  and  E.  Tovvsend,  of  New  Haven,  and  purchased  this  cutter, 
of  about  fifty  tons  burden  ; two  thirds  for  my  account  and  one  third 
for  theirs;  having  abandoned  my  Calcutta  plan.  She  was  called  the 
Dragon  ; but  as  my  papers  were  for  the  Caroline,  I changed  her  name 
accordingly.  From  the  remnants  of  the  cargo  of  a Boston  vessel, 
returned  from  the  Northwest  Coast,  and  such  articles  as  I could  pro- 
cure from  the  shops  at  Canton,  1 made  up  a very  suitable  investment 
to  the  amount  of  nine  thousand  dollars. 

By  the  time  I was  ready  to  sad  on  tins  enterprise,  nearly  three 
months  had  elapsed  since  my  arrival  at  Canton  ; during  which  period 
my  expenses  had  been  moderate,  from  having  the  good  fortune  of 
associating  myself  with  the  inmates  of  the  Elizabeth’s  factory.  The 
factories  are  handsome  houses,  built  in  the  European  style,  on  the 
margin  of  the  river,  for  the  accommodation  of  those  who  have  busi- 
ness to  transact  at  Canton.  They  are  generally  of  two  stories  ; the 
lower  being  used  as  warehouses.  They  are  whitewashed,  and,  with 
their  respective  national  flags  displayed  on  a high  staff  before  them, 
make  a very  pretty  appearance.  In  former  times  the  ships  came  and 
returned  with  a regularity  of  the  monsoons  ; and  the  resident  super- 
cargoes, during  their  absence,  were  not  permitted  to  remain  at  Can- 
ton, but  removed  to  the  Portuguese  town  of  Macao.  This  routine 
has,  of  late  years,  been  broken  up  by  the  disregard  of  etiquette  and 
the  established  seasons,  on  the  part  of  the  Americans,  who.  coming 
and  going  all  the  year  round,  have  inverted  all  the  ancient  rules  of 
doing  business  at  Canton. 

In  the  rear  of  the  factories,  and  spreading  out  on  either  side,  are 
the  houses  and  shops  of  those  merchants  and  mechanics  who  derive 
then- support  from  trading  with  foreigners  ; a dense  and  active  popu 


CANTON. 


73 


lation,  wno  evince  a shrewdness  in  their  dealings  not  surpassed  by 
those  strangers  who  traffic  with  them,  and  who  are  too  apt  to  treat 
them  with  contempt.  The  police  of  this  portion  of  the  community 
is  so  lax,  that  petty  thefts  are  very  common,  and  rarely  punished. 
An  additional  evidence  of  this  laxity  is  also  manifested  in  the  occa- 
sional practice  of  beggars,  who  extort  alms  from  the  shopkeepers  by 
covering  themselves  with  a coat  of  the  most  filthy  odor,  and  thus 
rendering  themselves  so  disgusting  that  the  shopkeepers,  to  prevent 
their  coming  in,  stand  ready  at  the  door  with  the  contribution.  Great 
numbers  of  the  poor  population  are  born,  reared,  and  die  in  small 
boats  of  twelve  to  fifteen  feet  long,  which  have  a bamboo  covering 
to  screen  them  from  the  sun  and  from  the  inclemency  of  the  weather ; 
and  in  no  other  part  of  the  world,  perhaps,  is  it  so  clearly  demon- 
strated in  how  little  space,  and  on  what  slender  means,  man  may 
subsist. 

The  Chinese  are  decided  idolaters,  and  have  an  annual  show  and 
procession  for  propitiating  an  evil  demon.  They  have  numerous 
houses  of  worship,  in  which  are  kept  images  of  gods,  which  resemble, 
in  some  respects,  those  of  the  most  barbarous  nations  of  Indians.  At 
one  of  these  houses, ’on  the  opposite  side  of  the  river,  were  several 
of  the  priesthood,  whose  dress  bore  some  resemblance  to  that  of 
Franciscan  friars,  and  whose  business  was  principally  to  take  care  of 
the  sacred  hogs.  These  were  about  twenty  in  number,  and  were  in 
an  inclosure.  They  are  never  killed,  but  are  left  to  die  in  the  regu- 
lar course  of  time  ; and  several  of  them  were  so  unwieldy  that  it 
was  not  without  great  difficulty  they  could  move  themselves  a few 
feet  one  way  or  the  other. 

The  pertinacity  with  which  the  Chinese  adhei'e  to  the  ancient  prac- 
tice of  interdicting  to  strangers  the  entrance  of  their  city,  is  still  un- 
diminished. Having  in  one  of  my  excursions  come  near  to  the 
gate,  and  observing  no  one  on  duty  to  prevent  the  entrance  of  stran- 
gers, I walked  in,  and  had  proceeded  a distance  of  about  thirty  feet, 
when  a hue  and  cry  was  made  ; and  a dozen  people  came  running 
up  to  me,  and,  with  earnest  looks  and  violent  gesture,  pointed  to  the 
gate,  and  ind.cated,  by  signs  that  could  not  be  mistaken,  that  I must 
return.  1 aid  not  hesitate  to  comply  with  wishes  so  clearly  man- 
tested,  and  where  the  power  of  enforcing  them  was  so  apparent, 
7 


74 


FIRST  VOYAGE. 


Within  the  wall  I saw  nothing  in  the  appearance  of  the  streets  and 
houses  differing  from  those  without ; and  I am  induced  to  believe 
that  the  rigor,  in  forbidding  access  to  foreigners,  arises  from  the  ob- 
servance of  the  customary  Asiatic  jealousy  with  regard  to  the  women. 
Of  the  character,  manners,  customs,  and  habits  of  the  Chinese,  so 
much  better  accounts  are  given  by  those  who  have  had  greater  oppoi- 
tunnies  of  observing,  that  I shall  not  attempt  to  describe  them. 


CHAPTER  VI. 


Information  from  Boston  — Difficulty  of  obtaining  Men  — Northeast  Monsoon  — A 
Choice  of  Difficulties  — Sail  from  Anson’s  Bay  — Anchoring  when  the  Tides  were 
against  us  — Narrow  Escape  — Rocks  and  Shoals  — Struck  and  stopped  on  a sunk 
en  Ledge  — Came  off  as  the  Tide  rose  — Anchor,  and  procure  Water  and  Wood  — 
Curiosity  of  the  People  — Stormy  Weather  — Pass  through  a Breaker  unhurt 
— Keep  Company  with  a Chinese  Fleet  — They  enter  Amoy  — Anchor  outside  — 
Dangerous  Navigation  — Island  of  Kemoy — Mutiny — Means  of  subduing  it  — 
Leave  six  Men  behind — Visit  from  a Chinese  — Weather  the  North  End  of  Formo- 
sa— Heavy  Gales  across  the  Pacific  — Discontent  of  the  Crew. 


¥ a recent  arrival  from  Boston  I learned  that  sev- 
eral vessels  were  fitting  from  thence  for  the  North- 
west Coast ; and  as  my  success  depended  mainly 
on  arriving  there  before  them,  1 spared  no  exertion 
for  the  accomplishment  of  this  purpose.  But  for 
this  information  it  had  been  my  intention  to  wait 
until  the  strength  of  the  monsoon  had  diminished. 
To  procure  a competent  number  of  men  was  a task 
of  such  difficulty,  that,  when  any  one  offered  his  ser- 
vices, I was  not  very  particular  in  inquiring  whence  lie 
came,  or  how  well  he  was  qualified  ; it  was  sufficient  for 
my  purpose  if  he  was  a white  man,  and  presented  an  ap- 
pearance of  health  and  strength  ; for  it  was  indispensable  to 
our  safety  with  the  Indians  that  our  crew  should  be  com- 
posed of  Europeans  or  Americans.  Most  of  my  men  were 
deserters  from  Indiamen ; and  these  were  generally  the 
worst  of  a bad  crew.  With  such  as  I could  procure,  however,  I at 
length  completed  my  complement,  sixteen  men  before  the  mast,  four- 
teen of  whom  were  English  and  Irish,  and  two  Americans.  In  the 
cabin  we  were  five  in  number,  including  George,  who  acted  as  stew- 
ard, and  the  linguist ; making  together  twenty-one.  The  vessel  was 
remarkably  strong  and  well  built ; well  coppered  ; mounted  ten  brass 


76 


FIRST  VOYAGE. 


four-pound  cannon  ; with  a proper  number  of  muskets,  pistols, 
pikes,  &c. 

At  tli is  season  of  the  year  the  northeast  monsoon  was  blowing 
with  its  greatest  force,  and  the  current  was  strong  in  proportion.  No 
track  could  be  pointed  out,  therefore,  by  which  we  could  arrive  at 
such  a northern  latitude  as  to  be  free  from  the  influence  of  the  trade 
wind,  which  was  not  fraught  with  difficulties  ana  dangers.  The  most 
direct  course  was  to  pass  between  the  southern  end  of  Formosa  and 
the  northern  point  of  Luzon,  by  the  Bashee  Islands.  But  here,  the 
effect  of  such  a sea  as  would  be  met,  upon  so  short  a vessel,  combin- 
ed with  a strong  lee  current,  presented  obstacles  sufficient  to  discour- 
age the  attempt.  To  follow  the  track  Captain  Meares,  at  the 
same  season  of  the  year,  in  1788,  by  going  'south,  and  endeavoring 
to  get  our  easting  on  the  equator,  would  doubtless  be  the  easiest  meth- 
od ; but  would  unavoidably  take  up  so  much  time  as  to  defeat  my 
object.  The  course  which  appeared  to  me  to  offer  the  best  prospect 
of  success,  though  attended  with  more  danger  than  either  of  the 
others,  was  to  beat  up  along  the  shore  of  the  coast  of  China.  For  1 
was  persuaded  that  the  small  size  of  my  vessel  would  enable  me  to 
keep  so  near  the  shore  as  sometimes  to  have  a favorable  current ; to 
be  protected,  occasionally,  by  a projecting  point,  from  the  roughness 
of  the  sea  ; and  to  come  to  anchor  when  it  appeared  that  we  were 
losing  ground.  The  attempt,  I was  aware,  was  an  arduous  and  haz- 
ardous one  ; and  of  its  impracticability  I was  assured  by  some  of  the 
most  experienced  navigators  in  those  seas.  But  l considered  that  a 
failure,  by  arriving  too  late  on  the  coast,  would  be  equally  disastrous 
with  any  misfortune  that  could  arise  from  making  the  attempt.  I 
was  also  the  more  encouraged  to  make  the  trial,  as  I could  not  learn 
that  it  had  ever  been  attempted  at  the  same  season  of  the  year ; con- 
sequently, that  my  advisers  were  not  warranted  in  declaring  so  con- 
fidently that  it  was  impracticable. 

With  such  impressions,  with  my  vessel  well  equipped,  and  with  a 
crew  whose  appearance  made  it  difficult  to  believe  that  most  of  them 
had  not  been  familiar  with  crime,  I sailed  from  Anson’s  Bay  on  the 
10th  of  January,  1799,  in  the  morning.  Having  a strong  breeze,  we 
passed  Macao  Roads  at  four  P.  M.,  at  a long  distance  from  the  ship- 
ping, fearing  we  might  be  brought  to,  ajid  our  men  taken  out.  Dur 


NARROW  ESCAPE 


7 7 

ing  the  night,  we  passed  between  the  Lema  Islands  and  very  near  to 
one  of  them  ; which  1 ventured  to  do,  from  the  local  knowledge  pos- 
sessed by  the  chief  mate.  The  inconvenience,  arising  from  the 
want  of  a chart  of  the  coast  and  Islands,  was  immediately  experienc- 
ed. The  small  and  imperfect  one  I possessed  was  not  of  the  least 
Use,  and  hence  our  utmost  vigilance  was  constantly  required.  In  the 
morning  and  forenoon  of  the  11th,  we  made  several  tacks  off  and 
on  ; but  the  current  was  so  strong  against  us,  that  notwithstanding  we 
had  a fresh  breeze  and  smooth  sea,  we  gained  nothing  to  windward  ; 
and  as  we  had  not  been  able  to  complete  our  watering  and  wooding 
at  Anson’s  Bay,  we  went  in  and  anchored  near  a small  fishing  town 
for  this  purpose. 

Here,  we  were  soon  visited  by  as  great  a number  of  the  inhabit- 
ants as  boats  could  be  found  to  convey.  Both  old  and  young,  of 
either  sex,  came  off  to  see  the  Fanquis,  as  they  called  us,  Atnong 
them  was  one  who  spoke  the  Portuguese  language  ; and  who,  for  a 
moderate  compensation,  procured  for  us  the  supply  we  required.  In 
the  mean  time  the  numbers  had  greatly  increased,  and  evinced  a 
strong  desire  to  come  on  board.  As  it  would  have  been  very  impru- 
dent to  permit  this,  I found  myself  obliged  to  station  men  in  different 
parts  of  the  vessel,  with  boarding  pikes,  to  keep  them  off. 

In  the  afternoon,  the  current  appearing  to  have  diminished,  we 
weighed  anchor,  and  perceived,  towards  evening,  that  we  bad  gained 
considerably  ; but,  as  there  were  appearances  of  bad  weather,  and 
wre  were  abreast  a deep  bay  which  promised  a shelter,  we  ran  in 
and  came  to  anchor  ; and  thus  escaped  the  fatigue  and  danger  of  a 
stormy  night  at  sea.  From  eight  o’clock  in  the  morning  until  late  in 
the  afternoon  of  the  12th,  our  efforts  to  gain  to  windward  were  inef- 
fectual ; indeed,  such  was  the  force  of  the  current,  that  we  could  not 
reach  the  place  we  had  left  in  the  morning  ; and  the  succeeding  night, 
it  being  calm,  we  were  obliged  to  lie  at  anchor  outside.  The  next 
day,  (13th,)  having  but  a light  breeze,  we  used  our  sweeps  ; by  the 
aid  of  which,  and  keeping  close  in  shore,  we  advanced  a little.  In 
beating  through  a narrow  strait,  formed  by  a point  of  the  coast  and  a 
rocky  island,  against  which  the  sea  broke  with  great  fury,  and  at  the 
critical  moment  when  passing  not  more  than  fifteen  yards  to  wind- 
ward, the  peak  halyards  slipped  from  the  pin  to  which  they  wers 
7* 


78 


FIRST  VOYAGE. 


belayed,  and  the  peak  of  the  mainsail  ran  down.  As  all  hands  were 
on  deck,  it  was  instantly  hoisted  again  ; but  such  was  the  force  of  the 
swell,  the  wind  being  light,  that  before  we  had  got  by  we  were 
thrown  so  near  the  rock  as  to  reach  it  with  an  oar.  After  this  escape 
we  stood  out  to  sea,  with  the  wind  from  east-northeast,  blowing  in  the 
night  very  strong,  which  caused  a considerable  increase  of  sea. 
This  obliged  us  to  carry  a press  of  sail,  and  presently  our  jib  split; 
we  then  reefed  the  mainsail,  set  a second-sized  jib,  and  a little  after 
midnight  tacked  in  shore. 

At  daylight  of  the  14th  we  were  not  a little  elated  to  find  our- 
selves considerably  to  windward  of  the  place  we  left  the  last  evening, 
notwithstanding  a rough  sea.  We  continued  all  day  successfully 
plying  to  windward,  and  in  the  evening,  it  being  calm,  we  anchored 
fifteen  fathoms.  All  day  of  the  15th  we  had  light  airs  and  calms 
by  turns  ; so  that  when  we  could  gain  nothing  by  the  help  of  oui 
sweeps,  we  anchored  ; and  when  the  breeze  came,  weighed  again  ; 
by  these  means  we  advanced,  though  very  slowly  and  with  much 
labor 

In  the  forenoon  of  the  16th,  the  weather  being  calm,  we  rowed  in 
shore  and  anchored  under  the  lee  of  an  island,  and  near  a very  exten- 
sive sandy  beach,  not  far  from  a fishing  town.  The  inhabitants 
soon  came  off  to  us,  and  I engaged  one  of  them  to  take  our  empty 
water-casks  ashore  and  fill  them  ; and  to  bring  us  a supply  of  oranges. 
Of  others,  1 purchased,  at  a moderate  -price,  some  very  good  fish. 
These  people  were  better  dressed  and  were  more  civil  than  those 
who  visited  us  on  the  1 1th  ; and,  when  we  were  leaving  them,  request- 
ed a paper,  describing  the  vessel  and  our  destination. 

On  the  17th  it  was  apparent  that  we  had  arrived  at  a shoaler,  and 
consequently  more  dangerous  part  of  the  coast  than  we  had,  hitherto, 
been  navigating  ; and  could  not,  therefore,  without  great  risk,  work 
alongshore  at  night,  as  we  had  done.  The  wind  was  very  light  dur- 
ing the  day;  but  towards  evening  freshened  so  much  as  to  make  it 
necessary  to  reef  the  sails.  We  stood  off  shore  until  two  o’clock  on 
the  morning  of  the  18th,  and  then  tacked  towards  the  land  ; in  ex- 
pectation that,  as  we  had  carried  as  much  sail  all  night  as  the  vessel 
would  bear,  we  should  gain  very  considerably  to  windward  ; but,  at 
daylight,  had  the  disappointment  to  find  ourselves  at  least  three 


STRUCK  ON  A LEDGE. 


79 


leagues  to  leeward  of  the  land  we  left  the  preceding  evening.  To 
lose  so  much,  in  so  short  a time,  was  very  discouraging;  for,  with 
our  greatest  exertions,  we  could  hardly  hope  to  regain  it  in  twenty- 
four  hours.  This  also  convinced  me  that  we  could  do  nothing  by 
keeping  far  from  the  shore.  In  the  evening,  as  well  as  throughout 
the  succeeding  night,  a breeze  from  the  land  favored  us  very  much  ; 
and,  by  keeping  close  in,  we  gained  even  more  than  our  preceding 
day’s  loss. 

On  the  morning  of  the  19th,  we  had  a pleasant  breeze  from  east- 
northeast,  making  short  tacks  near  the  shore  ; and  soon  after  eight, 
A.  M.,  we  doubled  a point,  which  opened  to  our  view  a large  sandy 
bay,  and  in  which  there  appeared  to  be  many  dangerous  rocks  and 
breakers.  Keeping  our  lead  constantly  going,  we  had  very  irregular 
soundings,  from  five  to  two  and  a half  fathoms;  when,  suddenly,  as 
we  were  sailing  at  the  rate  of  about  three  knots,  we  ran  upon  a sunk- 
en ledge.  As  the  vessel  hung  only  forward,  we  lowered  the  sails 
and  hoisted  out  the  boat,  with  a view  to  carry  out  an  anchor  astern  ; 
but  unfortunately,  in  putting  the  anchor  into  the  boat,  the  bill  of  it 
struck  with  such  force  against  one  of  the  planks  in  the  bottom  as  to 
render  her  useless  until  she  was  repaired.  This  was  a discouraging 
circumstance,  as  the  vessel  lay  very  uneasy  ; but  there  was  no  other 
resource  than  to  hoist  the  boat  again  on  deck,  and  stop  the  leak  in  the 
most  expeditious  way  possible.  While  we  were  thus  engaged,  the 
fide  rose  so  much  that  the  vessel  slid  off  the  rock,  unaided  by  any 
efforts  of  ours  ; and  apparently  without  having  received  any  injury. 
Our  latitude  was  22°,  35''  north. 

Having  secured  our  boat  and  anchor,  and  again  made  sail,  we 
stood  off  to  sea,  so  far  as  to  enable  us  to  weather  this  shoal  on  the 
opposite  tack.  Towards  evening,  perceiving  the  current  to  be  strong 
against  us,  we  came  to  anchor  and  lay  all  night.  We  now  were 
encouraged  by  the  discovery  that  we  had  regular  tides  setting  north 
and  south  ; and  as  soon  as  it  began  to  set  in  our  favor,  on  the  20th, 
we  weighed  anchor  and  began  beating.  But,  having  a short  irregu- 
lar sea  to  contend  with,  we  made  but  little  progress  during  the  day; 
and  so  entirely  did  the  coast  appear  to  be  strewed  with  rocks  and 
shoals,  that  it  could  not  be  approached  in  the  night  without  the  most 
imminent  danger  of  losing  our  vessel  ; hence  the  necessity  of  finding 


*>0 


FIRST  VOYAGE. 


an  anchorage  for  the  night  before  the  day  closed.  We  succeeded 
in  doing  this  by  running  in  where  there  was  a number  of  junks  at 
anchor;  and  near  a considerable  settlement,  before  which  appeared 
to  be  a fort. 

As  soon  as  we  had  anchored  a number  of  visitors  came  off  to  us  • 
but,  as  no  one  of  them  knew  any  of  the  European  languages,  our 
communications  were  confined  to  signs  ; by  means  of  which  I suc- 
ceeded in  replenishing  our  stock  of  wood  and  water.  While  the 
Chinaman  was  engaged  in  filling  our  water-casks,  Mr.  Smith,  the 
chief  mate,  made  an  excursion  on  shore.  As  soon  as  he  landed,  a 
person,  who  seemed  to  possess  some  authority,  came  up  to  him  and 
made  signs  that  he  should  follow  him  to  the  fort.  He  was  there  in- 
troduced to  a Mandarin,  who  was,  doubtless,  the  commandant,  and 
who,  being  made  to  comprehend  the  object  of  our  visit,  manifested  a 
desire  to  gratify  it;  and  behaved  with  great  civility.  It  appeared  as 
if  these  people  had  never  before  seen  an  European,  or  American. 
They  followed  him  in  crowds  to  the  fort,  and  back  again  to  the  land- 
ing-place. All  labor,  for  the  time,  was  abandoned  ; and  even  the 
actors,  who  were  then  engaged  on  a public  stage,  suspended  their 
sing  song , while  the  “ fanqui  ” was  passing. 

The  following  morning  (21st)  we  sailed  again,  accompanied  by  a 
number  of  the  junks,  also  bound  to  windward  ; and  from  this  time 
until  the  24th,  we  had  no  other  wind  than  the  regular  monsoon; 
sometimes  blowing  very  strong,  so  that  we  could  gain  nothing  by 
beating ; we  then  generally  sought  a smooth  place  in  which  to 
anchor ; and  even  when  the  wind  was  moderate,  we  were  always 
obliged  to  anchor  while  the  tide  was  setting  against  us.  We  passed 
very  day  vast  fleets  of  fishing  boats  ; and  were  in  sight  of  several 
towns,  some  of  which  appeared  to  be  of  considerable  size. 

On  the  morning  of  the  24th,  1 was  equally  surprised  and  delighted 
with  a breeze  springing  up  from  the  southwest,  which,  increasing  at 
noon,  continued  throughout  the  day,  and  afforded  such  an  enlivening 
prospect,  that  I began  to  flatter  myself  with  the  belief  that  we  had 
seen  the  worst  of  our  passage.  But.  1 was  not  long  permitted  to  in- 
dulge so  pleasing  a hope  ; as  before  eight  o’clock  in  the  evening,  the 
wind  shifted  suddenly,  ii  a squall,  to  its  old  quarter,  the  northeast,  and 
blew  with  great  violence. 


PASS  THROUGH  A BREAKER  UNHURT. 


81 


On  the  25th,  we  gained  considerably  in  the  forenoon ; but  towards 
evening  the  wind  increased  so  as  to  bring  us  under  double-reefed 
sails.  The  night  was  rainy  and  dark,  with  a rough  sea,  into  which 
we  were  plunging,  without  reaping  any  advantage ; as,  in  the  morn- 
ing our  position  differed  little  or  none  from  what  it  was  the  preced- 
ing evening.  On  the  evening  of  the  26th,  preferring  the  chance  of 
anchoring  where  we  were  not  well  sheltered,  to  passing  such  a night 
as  the  last,  we  came  to  anchor  under  the  lee  of  a rock,  soon  after 
sunset. ; where  we  rode  very  securely  until  between  ten  and  eleven 
o’clock,  when,  the  wind  having  increased  very  much,  we  struck  adrift. 
All  hands  were  called  immediately;  we  hove  up  the  anchor,  and, 
under  double-reefed, sails,  stood  out  to  sea,  until  four  A.  M.,  when  we 
tacked  in  shore  ; the  wind  and  sea  having  so  increased  as  to  keep  us 
buried  most  of  the  time,  even  under  our  storm-sails.  Approaching 
the  coast,  and  when  within  about  three  leagues  of  it,  we  suddenly 
perceived  a breaker ; but,  as  the  vessel  was  going  at  a rapid  rate,  we 
were  in  the  midst  of  the  foam  almost  at  the  moment  of  this  discovery. 
The  vessel  struck  once,  in  the  hollow  of  the  sea,  and  was  enveloped 
in  the  succeeding  billow,  but  passed  over  without  receiving  any  in- 
jury ; her  deck,  at  the  same  time,  was  covered  with  sand. 

It  had  now  become  essential  that  we  should  find  a harbor;  as  we 
could  do  no  more  than  drift  to  leeward  by  remaining  out.  But  to 
seek  one,  in  a gale  of 'wind,  without  a chart,  and  on  a coast  to  which 
we  were  all  strangers,  was  attended  with  great  hazard.  When  we 
had  run  about  four  leagues  to  leeward,  the  man  at  mast-head  perceiv- 
ed a deep  and  sandy  bay ; the  access  to  which  appeared  to  be  free 
from  danger  ; and  the  sea  was  now  so  high  that  any  shoal  which 
could  take  us  up,  would  show  itself.  We  therefore  ran  boldly  in, 
and  doubling  round  a projecting  point  of  sand,  came  to  anchor  near  a 
fleet  of  junks;  which  we  found  were  bound  north,  and  had,  like  our- 
selves, put  in  to  evade  the  storm.  The  gale  continued  throughout  this 
and  the  following  day,  accompanied  with  frequent  and  heavy  squalls 
of  rain  ; and  the  weather  as  cold  as  it  is  commonly  in  Boston  in  the 
month  of  December.  After  our  recent  fatigue  and  anxiety,  the  re- 
laxation and  comfort,  afforded  by  lying  two  days  and  a night  in  so 
smooth  a harbor,  while  the  storm  was  howling,  and  the  sea  roaring 
without,  was  almost  beyond  the  power  of  description 


82 


FIRST  VOYAGE. 


In  the  evening  of  the  28th  there  was  evidently  a considerable 
abatement  of  the  gale  ; and  by  midnight  the  weather  was  serene  and 
pleasant.  Before  dawn  on  the  29th,  we  perceived  a muster  on  board 
the  junks,  for  getting  under  way  ; and,  following  their  example,  we 
also  weighed  anchor,  and  went  out  in  company  with  thirty-two  sail  ; 
witli  which  we  plied  to  windward  till  one  P.  M.  when,  the  tide  making 
against  us,  we  all  came  to  anchor  in  three  and  a half  fathoms, 
opposite  a small  fishing  town. 

We  perceived,  during  this  day,  that  when  working  up  in  smooth 
water,  sometimes  caused  by  a projecting  point,  our  vessel  was  decidedly 
superior  to  the  junks  in  sailing ; but  that  when  we  got  out  where 
.he  sea  was  rough,  they  had  as  much  the  advantage  of  us  ; indeed,  I 
was  astonished  to  perceive  how  fast  such  square,  uncouth,  ill-shaped 
craft,  with  bamboo  sails,  would  work  to  windward  in  a sea  which 
almost  buried  my  cutter. 

At  eleven  o’clock  in  the  evening  we  perceived  the  junks  to  be 
getting  under  way  ; and  concluded  we  could  not  do  better  than  to 
keep  company  with  them,  which  we  did  throughout  the  night ; and, 
in  the  morning  of  the  30th,  found  we  had  gained  very  considerably. 
Between  four  and  five  A.  M.,  the  tide  set  against  us  so  strongly  that 
we  barely  maintained  our  position  ; and  while  a part  of  the  fleet  went 
in  shore  and  anchored,  a part  remained  under  sail.  At  ten  o’clock, 
we  had  again  a favorable  current,  of  which  the  whole  fleet  took 
advantage,  and  kept  plying  to  windward  till  four  P.  M.,  when  we  all 
stood  into  a deep  bay,  or  estuary,  at  the  inner  extremity  of  which  is 
the  town  of  Amoy  ; a place  of  great  trade,  if  a judgment  can  be 
formed  by  the  vast  number  of  vessels  which  we  perceived  to  be  lying 
there. 

The  masters  of  the  two  junks  that  were  nearest  to  us  made  mo- 
tions that  were  not  difficult  to  understand,  that  we  should  go  and 
anchor  under  the  lee  of  an  island  a little  to  windward  of  us;  which 
we  did  at  six  o’clock,  near  two  Chinese  Junks.  The  captain  of  one 
of  these  came'on  board,  and  informed  us  that  the  name  of  the  town 
was  Amoy ; that  the  land  about  three  and  a half  leagues  to  wind- 
ward was  the  Island  Kemoy  ; and  that  we  must  keep  the  lead  going 
all  the  time,  as  there  were  numerous  rocks  and  shoals  in  the  interme- 
diate space. 


THE  ISLAND  OF  KEMOY. 


83 


Some  very  neat  houses,  surrounded  with  trees  and  shrubbery,  and 
having  the  appearance  of  country-seats  of  opulent  men,  were  beau- 
tifully situated  on  the  side  of  a hill  opposite  to  the  spot  where  we 
had  anchored ; and  the  whole  island,  of  apparently  not  more  than 
two  miles  in  circumference,  presented  a highly  cultivated  and  pleas- 
ing appearance.  During  the  day,  we  had  passed  several  considera- 
ble settlements,  one  of  which  had  a wall  round  it;  and  the  country 
generally  exhibited  an  appearance  of  great  cultivation.  We  dared 
not  take  advantage  of  the  night  tide,  after  the  account  of  the  dangers 
which  the  Chinaman  had  given  us,  and  therefore  remained  at  anchor 
all  night.  I would  gladly  have  procured  a pilot,  but  could  not;  and 
had  no  other  resource  than  following  the  imperfectly  conveyed  direc- 
tions of  the  Chinaman,  and  trusting  to  the  lead  and  a good  lookout 
for  safety. 

Desirous  of  reconnoitring  the  ground  before  us  at  low  water,  when 
some  of  the  reefs  would  discover  themselves,  we  remained  at  anchor 
on  the  31st  for  this  purpose  ; and  saw  many  rocks  in  our  track,  which 
were  not  visible  at  high  water.  Of  these  we  took  the  bearings,  and 
saw  how  to  avoid  many  of  the  dangers  which  were  pointed  out  to  us 
by  the  Chinaman. 

Early  on  the  morning  of  the  1st  of  February,  we  resumed  the  task 
of  beating  to  windward  ; and  although  we  had  frequently  only  two 
fathoms  of  water,  and  did  not  always  deepen  it  by  standing  off  shore, 
we  yet,  fortunately,  reached  in  safety  the  anchorage  under  the  lee  of 
the  Island  Kemoy,  towards  evening,  after  having  passed  a day  of  great 
anxiety  and  fatigue. 

The  duty  had  now  been  so  arduous,  the  prospect  of  its  duration  so 
uncertain,  and  the  dangers  so  appalling,  that  the  men,  unceasingly 
exposed  to  wet  and  cold,  became  quite  disheartened  ; and,  during  the 
ensuing  night,  entered  into  a combination  to  compel  me  to  return  to 
Macao.  This  was  manifested  in  the  morning,  by  a general  refusal  to 
weigh  anchor,  when  the  order  was  given.  In  this  determination  they 
were  so  well  agreed,  that  I did  not  attempt  to  force  them,  otherwise 
than  by  declaring  to  them,  that  if  they  would  not  work  they  should 
not  eat,  and  took  the  necessary  precaution  to  prevent  their  getting 
provisions.  On  this  they  became  very  boisterous  ; using  insolent  and 
abusive  language  to  myself  and  officers  ; swearing  they  would  have 


84 


FIRST  VOYAGE. 


provisions;  and  providing  themselves  with  axes,  crowbars,  and  what- 
ever weapons  they  could  find,  to  enforce  their  threat ; or  possibly  td 
take  possession  of  the  vessel. 

It  was  now  very  evident  that  no  time  was  to  be  lost  in  putting  our- 
selves in  a state  of  defence  ; which,  if  it  did  not  discourage  the 
attempt,  should  defeat  the  success  of  any  desperate  measure  they 
might  plan.  With  this  view,  I caused  a four-pound  cannon,  loaded 
with  langrage,  to  be  pointed  forward  from  each  side  of  the  quarter- 
deck ; and  each  officer,  at  the  same  time,  providing  himself  with  a 
pair  of  loaded  pistols,  we  had  nothing  to  apprehend  from  an  attack 
while  we  observed  the  degree  of  vigilanee  the'  case  demanded. 
When  this  preparation  was  made,  I forbade  any  man  to  come  abaft 
the  mast,  on  penalty  of  being  fired  at;  and  declared  to  them,  that  if 
l perceived  any  number  coming  aft  together,  I would  discharge  one 
of  the  cannon  among  them. 

With  this  view,  I had  constantly  a man  on  the  alert,  at  each  gun 
with  a lighted  match ; and  we  relieved  each  other  every  two  hours 
Aware  that  this  state  of  things  could  not  be  of  long  duration,  neither 
myself  nor  officers  attempted  to  procure  any  sleep  during  the  suc- 
ceeding night. 

Having  remained  in  this  hostile  attitude  for  about  twenty-four 
hours,  without  perceiving  any  diminution  of  the  resolution  of  the 
mutineers,  it  occurred  to  me,  that  if  they  would  consent  to  be  set  on 
shore,  they  would  soon  be  glad  to  be  taken  on  board  again  on  such 
terms  as  1 should  prescribe.  When,  therefore,  I made  the  proposi- 
tion to  them,  they  readily  acceded  to  it ; and  were  immediately 
landed  on  the  beach.  The  curiosity  of  the  inhabitants  to  see  them 
was  such,  that  they  were  incessantly  surrounded  by  a great  crowd, 
and  their  situation  became  extremely  irksome  and  uncomfortable  ; 
besides  which,  they  could  obtain  no  other  food  than  a scanty  supply 
of  rice.  The  next  morning,  (3d,)  we  perceived  the  eldest  of  the 
party,  (a  good-natured  old  man-of-war’s-rnan,  of  about  fifty,  whose 
pride  of  adhering  to  his  comrades,  rather  than  hostility  to  us,  had  led 
him  into  his  present  trouble,)  coming  down  to  the  beach  and  waving 
his  jacket,  as  if  he  wanted  to  speak  with  us.  Supposing  he  might  be 
deputed  by  the  others  to  make  some  proposal,  I sent  the  boat,  with 
the  chief  mate,  and  with  George  and  the  linguist  to  row  him-.  Old 


MUTINY  ; MEANS  OIF  SUBDUING  IT 


85 


Will,  (for  that  was  the  name  by  which  he  was  called,)  had  no  other 
favor  to  ask,  than  permission  to  come  on  board  again  on  any  terms. 
He  was  accordingly  brought  off;  and  appeared  to  be  so  much 
ashamed  of  his  eonduet,  and  promised  so  fairly  to  behave  well  in 
future,  that  I forgave  him.  He  gave  a lamentable  account  of  the 
great  inconvenience  they  experienced  from  the  excessive  curiosity  of 
the  inhabitants  to  see  them  ; and  from  which  they  had  been  partially 
relieved  by  the  kindness  of  a humane  Mandarin,  who  gave  them 
shelter  in  his  house.  He  also  mentioned  the  regret,  expressed  by 
several  of  them,  at  having  acceded  to  my  proposal  of  leaving  the 
vessel. 

A few  hours  after  old  Will  had  been  taken  on  board,  I saw  all  the 
others  getting  into  a Chinese  boat;  and  therefore  made  preparation 
to  keep  them  off’,  if  they  should  attempt  to  cotne  on  board  without 
permission.  When  they  had  arrived  within  hail,  I cautioned  them, 
on  their  peril,  to  approach  no  nearer.  They  said  the  Mandarin  had 
sent  them  off,  and  they  dared  not  return.  With  a cannon  pointed 
towards  the  boat,  l threatened  them  with  destruction  if  they  attempt- 
ed to  advance.  The  Chinamen,  who  were  at  the  oars,  seeing  this, 
became  so  alarmed  that  they  hastened  to  the  shore  again.  This  I con- 
ceived to  be  the  proper  moment  for  getting  m3'  men  on  board  on  my 
own  terms.  Accordingly,  the  mate  and  myself,  well  armed,  and 
rowed  by  two  men,  went  to  the  beach  ; and  calling  one  at  a.  time  into 
the  boat,  took  their  solemn  promise  of  future  good  behavior. 

There  were  two  desperate  fellows,  the  ringleaders,  whom  I deter- 
mined not  to  take  on  hoard  again  on  any  conditions.  I had  recently 
learned  that  they  were  convicts,  who  had  escaped  from  Botany  Bay ; 
and  that  the  one,  whom,  from  his  intelligence  and  activity,  I had 
made  boatswain,  had  once  been  master  of  a Liverpool  guineaman. 
This  man,  probably  suspecting  my  intentions,  attempted  to  come 
without  'being  called  ; and  when  refused,  he  immediately  opened  his 
clasp  knife,  and  presenting  it  to  the  breast  of  1 1 is  comrade,  who  was 
advancing  towards  the  boat,  threatened  him  with  instant  death  if  he 
attempted  to  pass  him.  I then  levelled  my  musket  at  him  ; but 
instantly  recollecting  that  we  had  already  secured  men  enough  to 
navigate  the  vessel  with  safety,  desisted  from  firing  it;  and  returned 
on  hoard  with  all  hut  six ; hoping,  that,  with  a little  further  dela}',  wq 


86 


FIRST  VOYAGE. 


should  obtain  the  other  four,  of  which  I was  desirous.  Accordingly, 
next  morning,  seeing  them  again  on  the  beach,  I went  to  them,  armed 
as  before  ; and  found  they  had  determined  not  to  separate  ; though 
they  all  made  fair  promises  of  good  conduct,  if  I would  take  them  on 
board  again.  Being  convinced  that  l could  not  get  those  I wanted 
without  those  I did  not  want,  I determined  to  prosecute  my  voyage, 
even  with  such  reduced  numbers;  and,  weighing  anchor,  we  recom- 
menced our  arduous  and  hazardous  duty  of  beating  to  windward. 

We  stood  out  to  sea,  with  a good  whole-sail  breeze  from  northeast, 
till  four  o’clock  in  the  morning  of  the  5th,  when  we  tacked.  The 
wind  and  sea  having  increased  very  considerably,  reduced  us  to 
our  double  reefs;  and,  on  coming  in  with  the  land,  we  found  we  had 
gained  several  miles.  But  with  so  much  wind  and  sea  as  there  then 
was,  we  could  not  advance  any  on  our  course,  and  we  determined  to 
find  an  anchorage.  This  we  succeeded  in  doing  by  running  a little 
to  leeward  ; and  at  noon,  anchored  in  a deep  bay  not  more  than  five 
or  six  miles  from  the  place  where  we  had  landed  our  men.  On  com- 
ing to  anchor  we  discharged  a cannon,  to  notify  our  men  that  there 
was  yet  time  to  dissolve  their  partnership. 

Here,  for  a moderate  compensation,  I again  engaged  a Chinaman 
to  fill  up  our  water-casks,  and  replenish  our  stock  of  wood.  In  the 
afternoon  I visited  one  of  the  large  China  junks,  near  to  which  we 
had  anchored;  where  I was  treated  with  great  politeness  by  a person, 
whom,  from  his  dress  and  appearance,  I took  to  be  the  owner.  He 
offered  us  tea  and  sweetmeats  in  the  great  cabin,  which  was  extremely 
neat  and  clean,  and  in  which  a Joss  occupied  a conspicuous  place.  1 
invited  him  to  go  on  board  my  vessel,  to  which  he  very  readily 
assented  ; and,  as  he  seemed  to  possess  an  inquiring  mind,  I pointed 
out  to  him  our  superiority  of  manner  over  his,  of  taking  up  the  anchor, 
hoisting  the  sails,  &c.,  of  which  he  seemed  to  be  convinced;  and, 
after  taking  some  refreshments,  he  left  us,  apparently  much  pleased* 
with  his  visit. 

The  gale  continuing  the  next  day,  it  would  have  been  useless  to> 
put  out;  we  therefore  lay  at  anchor  all  day.  About  noon,  observing 
a great  concourse  of  people  on  the  beach,  from  which  we  lay  half  a 
mile  distant,  with  the  help  of  my  glass  1 perceived  that  our  men  were 
among  them  ; and  that  they  were  getting  into  a boat.  I then  pre- 


VISIT  FROM  A CHINESE. 


87 


oared  to  keep  them  off,  in  case  they  should  attempt  to  come  on  board 
t>y  force.  When  they  were  within  hail,  1 desired  them  to  keep  off 
They  replied,  that  the  Mandarin  would  not  let  them  remain  on  shore, 
-and  were  advancing  ; when,  on  firing  a' musket  over  them,  they  imme- 
diately retreated  to  the  shore.  The  Mandarin,  with  his  numerous 
attendants,  then  came  off,  leaving  our  mutineers  on  shore.  1 invited 
these  on  board,  and  treated  them  with  wine  and  sweetmeats;  but 
would  not  comply  with  the  pressing  desire  of  the  Mandarin,  to  take 
all  our  men  on  board  again.  I believe  1 succeeded  in  making  him 
understand  that  four  of  the  six  I should  be  willing  to  take  again,  but 
that  the  other  two  I would  not. 

After  remaining  an  hour  on  board  and  examining  every  thing  with 
much  earnestness  and  attention,  they  returned  to  the  shote.  At  the 
same  time,  and  with  the  usual  precaution,  I went  near  the  beach,  in 
my  boat,  and,  calling  each  of  the  persons  separately  by  name, 
inquired  if  he  was  ready  to  go  on  board  on  my  conditions.  They 
declared  they  would  not  separate  ; but  complained  of  the  cruelty  and 
hardship  of  being  left  in  such  a place.  This  was  the  last  interview  I 
had  with  them  ; for,  soon  after  returning  on  board,  I saw  them 
marched  away,  escorted  by  the  guard  which  attended  the  Mandarin. 
On  our  return  to  Canton,  we  learned  that  these  six  men  had  been 
sent  there  by  the  Chinese  authorities,  and  delivered  to  the  English 
company’s  residents. 

The  next  morning,  having  a favorable  current  and  a good  breeze, 
we  put  out,  and  beat  till  the  tide  began  to  make  against  us  ; when  we 
gained  an  anchorage  near  a small  fishing  town,  where  we  lay  the 
remainder  of  the  day,  and  all  the  following  night.  Early  on  the 
morning  of  the  7th,  we  had  a moderate  breeze  from  north-northwest, 
by  means  of  which  we  made  a course  nearly  parallel  with  the  China 
coast  till  noon.  The  breeze  then  left  us,  and  having  a contrary  cur- 
rent, we  let  run  the  graplin,  in  twenty  fathoms  ; and  lay  till  five  P. 
M.,  when  there  came  a light  breeze  from  the  southeast,  to  which  we 
-et  all  sail. 

In  the  c .urse  of  the  afternoon,  during  the  calm,  a large  boat  came 
towards  us,  full  of  men  shouting  and  hallooing,  and  occasionally 
firing  a gun  they  had  in  the  bow.  Their  conduct  was  so  very  differ- 
ent from  that  of  any  of  the  Chinese  we  had  met  with,  that,  suspecting 


88 


FIRST  VOYAGE. 


they  might  be  Ladrones,  I ordered  a four-pound  shot  fired  over  them  , 
which  produced  an  instantaneous  retreat  to  the  shore.  Between  ten 
and  eleven  o’clock,  the  wind  continuing  to  be  very  light,  we  discov- 
ered a large  boat  rowing  towards  us,  which  1 supposed  to  be  the  same. 
When  at  a short  distance  to  windward  they  left  off  rowing  and  lay 
on  their  oars.  Their  manoeuvres  and  number  of  men  led  me  to  be 
suspicious  ; and  I therefore  loaded  two  cannon  and  several  muskets. 
They,  however,  probably  from  seeing  we  were  not  off  our  guard, 
returned  towards  the  shore  without  molesting  us. 

With  various  winds  and  weather,  we  diligently  pursued  our  course 
to  the  northward,  till  we  got  out  of  the  influence  of  the  monsoon ; 
and  on  the  11th  of  February  had  the  satisfaction  of  seeing  the  north 
end  of  Formosa,  bearing  south,  distant  ten  leagues.  Thus,  aftei 
thirty-one  days  of  great  toil,  exposure,  and  ahxiety,  we  had  accom- 
plished that  part  of  our  passage  which  had  been  represented  as  an 
impossibility  ; and  whig-h,  with  a fair  wind,  might  have  been  performed 
in  three  days. 

On  the  17th,  we  passed  between  the  north  end  of  the  Island  Le- 
keyo  (which  is  nearly  four  hundred  miles  east  of  Formosa)  ano 
several  small  islands  which  lie  to  the  north  of  it,  with  a gale  of  wind 
from  the  westward,  and  under  the  head  of  our  squaresail,  having  pre 
viously  split  the  topsail,  and  got  the  yards  on  deck.  I had  only  a 
manuscript  chart  of  the  North  Pacific,  which,  1 was  convinced,  was 
not  to  be  depended  on,  having  already  discovered  two  islands  that 

were  not  laid  down  in  it.  And  as  the  gale  continued  to  blow  with 

violence,  till  we  had  quite  passed  the  coast  of  Japan,  the  nights, 
which  were  long,  and  exceedingly  dark,  were  passed  in  sleepless 
anxiety,  lest  we  should  meet  destruction  from  some  island  or  rock, 
not  laid  down  in  my  chart. 

Our  passage  across  the  North  Pacific  proved  clearly  enough  the 
misapplication  of  the  term  to  that  sea,  as  it  was  hardly  possible  for  ii 
to  be  less  peaceful.  The  violence  of  the  wind  generally  obliged 
us  to  show  but  very  little  sail ; and  the  sea  was  so  boisterous  that 

there  were  but  few  days  when  we  were  not  enveloped  by  it,  so  that 

the  fire  was  repeatedly  extinguished  in  the  caboose.  The  men  who 
composed  the  watch  on  deck,  never  escaped  a complete  drenching  ; 
and  had  constant  employment  in  carrying  their  clothes  up  the  rigging 


DISCOURAGEMENT  OF  THE  CREW. 


89 


to  dry.  The  exposure  and  privations,  though  not  sufficiert  to  injure 
the  health  of  the  crew,  were  much  greater  than  they  had  ever  before 
experienced  ; and,  as  they  imagined  that  the  other  passages  were  to 
be  equally  fatiguing,  the®  formed  the  design,  (of  which  I had  notice,} 
of  deserting,  as  soon  as  >/irv  rr>u;ii.  a/trr  nr  arrival  on  the  coast. 

8* 


LMAH  Kit  fc  a. 


See  the  Coast  of  America.  — Prepare  Bulwarks — Anchor  at  Norfolk  Sound — Dis- 
charge a Cannon  — Natives  come  to  us  — Caution  to  them  — Their  Appearance 
— Purchase  Skins — Tribe  — Air  Accident  — Result  — Chatham  Straits  — Ship 
Eliza — -Suspicious  Conduct  of  the  Natives  — An  Alarm  — Stecken  War  Canoe  — A 
Present — Request  to  stop  the  Rain  — A Deserter  — Recovered  — Game  — Anchor 
m a Cove  — Hostile  Attitude  of  the  Natives  — Leave  them  — Ship  Cheerful — Dan- 
gerous Position  of  the  Vessel — Escape  — Repair  the  Damage — Ships  Hancock  and 
Despatch,  of  Boston — Skittigates  — Stratagem  — Howlings  iu  the  Night  — Sensi- 
bility of  a Native  — Chiefs  Kow,  Coneyaw,  and  Eltargee. 

in  the  morning  of  the  30th  of  Marcn 
we  saw  the  usual  indications  of  land,  drift-wood, 
kelp,  and  gulls  ; and  at  ten  o’clock  perceived  the 
snow-capped  hills  of  the  American  coast,  twelve 
leagues  distant.  We  immediately  set  all  hands  to 
work  in  bending  our  cables  and  getting  up  a bul- 
wark, which  we  had  been  preparing  of  hides 
sewed  together.  These  were  attached  to  stanch- 
ions of  about  six  feet,  and  completely  screened  us  from 
being  seen  by  the  natives,  whom  it  was  important  to  our 
safety  to  keep  in  ignorance  of  our  numbers.  Towards 
evening  we  anchored  in  a snug  harbor  at  Norfolk 
Sound,  in  latitude  57°  KK  north.  Here  the  smoothness  of 
the  water,  the  feeling  of  safety,  and  the  silent  tranquillity 
which  reigned  all  round  us,  formed  a striking  contrast  to  the 
scenes  with  which  we  had  been  familiar  since  leaving  Can- 
ton ; and  would  have  afforded  positive  enjoyment,  had  I possessed  a 
crew  on  whose  fidelity  I could  depend. 

The  following  day  was  very  clear  and  pleasant.  At  the  first  dawn 
of  the  morning  we  discharged  a cannon  to  apprize  any  natives  who 
might  be  near,  of  our  arrival.  We  then  loaded  the  cannon  and  a 
number  of  muskets  and  pistols,  which  were  placed  where  they  could 


APPEARANCE  OF  THE  NATIVES. 


91 


be  most  readily  laid  hold  of.  The  only  accessible  part  of  the  vessel 
was  the  stern,  and  this  was  exclusively  used,  (while  it  was  necessary 
to  keep  up  the  bulwark,)  as  the  gangway.  As  it  was  over  the  stern 
that  we  meant  to  trade,  I had  mounted  there  two  four-pound  cannon  ; 
and  on  the  tafferel  a pair  of  blunderbusses  on  swivels,  which  were 
also  loaded.  Soon  after  the  discharge  of  our  cannon,  several  Indians 
came  to  us  ; and  before  dark  some  hundreds  arrived,  who  encamp- 
ed on  the  beach  near  which  the  vessel  was  anchored.  As  we  observ- 
ed them  to  be  loaded  with  skins,  we  supposed  that  we  were  , the  first 
who  had  arrived  this  season. 

With  a view  to  our  own  security,  as  well  as  convenience,  I direct- 
ed my  interpreter  to  explain  to  the  chiefs,  and  through  them  to  the 
tribe,  that  after  dark  no  canoe  would  be  allowed  to  come  near  the 
vessel ; and  that  if  I perceived  any  one  approaching,  I should  fire  at 
it ; that  only  three  or  four  canoes  must  come  at  a time  to  trade,  and 
that  they  must  always  appear  under  the  stern,  avoiding  the  sides  of 
the  vessel.  With  my  own  men  I neglected  no  precaution  to  make 
escape  impossible,  but  at  the  imminent  risk  of  life.  While  at  anchor 
they  were  divided  into  three  watches.  One  of  these  I took  charge 
of;  and  stationing  them  in  such  parts  of  the  vessel  that  no  move- 
ment could  be  made  undiscovered,  obliged  them  to  strike  the  gong 
every  half  hour  throughout  the  night,  and  to  call  out,  from  each  end 
of  the  vessel  and  amidships,  “ All’s  well.”  This  practice  so  amused 
the  Indians,  that  they  imitated  it  b}r  striking  a tin  kettle,  and  re- 
peating the  wor-ls  as  near  as  they  were  able. 

But  a more  hideous  set  of  beings,  in  the  form  of  men  and  women, 
I had  never  before  seen.  The  fantastic  manner  in  which  many  of 
the  faces  of  the  men  were  painted,  was  probably  intended  to  give 
them  a ferocious  appearance  ; and  some  groups  looked  really  as*if 
they  had  escaped  from  the  dominions  of  Satan  himself.  One  had  a 
perpendicular  line  dividing  the  two  sides  of  the  face  ; one  side  of  which 
was  painted  red,  the  other  black  ; with  the  hair  daubed  with  grease 
and  red  ochre,  and  filled  with  the  white  down  of  birds.  Another  had 
the  face  divided  with  a horizontal  line  in  the  middle,  and  painted 
black  and  white.  The  visage  of  a third  was  painted  in  checkers,  &c. 
Most  of  them  had  little  mirrors  ; before  the  acquisition  of  which, 
they  must  have  been  dependent  on  each  other  for  those  correct  touches 


FIRST  VOYAGE. 


»2 

of  the  pencil  which  are  so  much  in  vogue  ; and  which  daily  require 
more  time  than  the  toilet  of  a Parisian  belle. 

The  women  made,  if  possible,  a still  more  frightful  appearance. 
The  ornament  of  wood  which  they  wear  to  extend  an  incision  made 
beneath  the  under  lip,  so  distorts  the  face  as  to  take  from  it  almost 
the  resemblance  to  the  human  ; yet  the  privilege  of  wearing  this 
ornament  is  not  extended  to  the  female  slaves,  who  are  prisoners  taken 
in  war.  Hence,  it  would  seem,  that  distinctive  badges  have  their 
origin  >n  the  most  rude  state  of  society.  It  is  difficult,  however,  for 
the  imagination  to  conceive  of  more  disgusting  and  filthy  beings  than 
these  patrician  dames. 

It  was  quite  noon  before  we  could  agree  upon  the  rate  of  barter  ; 
but  when  once  arranged  with  one  of  the  chiefs,  and  the  exchange 
made,  they  all  hurried  to  dispose  of  their  skins  at  the  same  rate ; and 
before  night  we  had  purchased  upwards  of  a hundred,  at  the  rate  of 
two  yards  of  blue  broadcloth  each.  The  Indians  assured  us,  that  a 
vessel  with  three  masts  had  been  there,  a month  before,  from  which 
they  had  received  four  yards  of  cloth  for  a skin  ; but  this  story  was 
rendered  improbable  by  the  number  they  had  on  hand  ; and  I consid- 
ered it  as  a manoeuvre  to  raise  the  price.  As  soon  as  it  became  dark 
they  retired  in  an  orderly  manner  to  their  encampment,  abreast  the 
vessel  ; and  some  of  them  appeared  to  be  on  the  watch  all  night,  as 
we  never  proclaimed  the  hour  on  board  without  hearing  a repetition 
of  it  on  shore. 

The  following  morning,  (April  2d,)  the  natives  came  off  soon  after 
daylight,  and  began  without  hesitation  to  dispose  of  their  furs  to  us,  at 
the  price  fixed  upon  the  day  before  ; and  such  was  their  activity  in 
trading  that,  by  night,  we  had  purchased  of  them  more  than  two 
nundred  sea  otter  skins ; besides  one  hundred  and  twenty  tails. 
Our  barter  consisted  of  blue  cloth,  great  coats,  blankets,  Chinese 
trunks  ; with  beads,  China  cash,  and  knives,  as  presents.  Canoes 
were  arriving  occasionally  throughout  the  day  ; so  that  at  night  there 
was  a very  perceptible  augmentation  of  their  numbers. 

Our  linguist  recognized  them  to  be  the  Hoodsnahoo  tribe,  who  had 
come  thus  early  to  the  coast  to  get  a supply  of  the  spawn  of  certain 
fish,  which  constitutes  their  principal  food  in  the  spring  of  the  year. 
As  this  tribe  had  attacked  the  cutter  last  year,  alone,  we  thought  it 


TftAfFtC  WITH  THE  INDIANS. 


93 

not  improbable  that,  now  they  were  united  with  the  Norfolk  Sound  tribe* 
they  might  determine  to  make  another  attempt.  We  therefore  took 
every  precaution  against  them. 

On  the  3d,  we  were  proceeding  harmoniously  and  prosperously  in 
our  traffic,  when  a little  incident  occurred,  which  produced  a short 
interruption.  A canoe,  containing  eleven  persons,  men,  women,  and 
children,  had,  contrary  to  our  regulations,  come  alongside,  and  were 
raising  the  screens  at  the  ports  to  look  in  on  the  deck,  Before  I had 
time  to  speak  to  them,  the  cook  (either  by  accident  or  design)  threw 
a ladle  full  of  hot  water  over  them,  which,  causing  an  involuntary 
and  sudden  motion  of  their  bodies  to  the  other  side  of  the  boat,  im- 
mediately upset  it,  and  all  were  immersed  in  the  water.  The  confu- 
sion was  now  very  great,  as  those,  who,  at  the  time,  were  under  the 
stern  engaged  in  traffic,  fearing  some  treachery,  made  haste  to  paddle 
away,  without  regard  to  the  distress  of  their  comrades,  All  of  these 
appeared,  however,  to  be  capable  of  taking  care  of  themselves,  ex 
cepting  an  infant  of  about  a year  old,  whose  struggles  being  observed 
by  Mr.  Smith,  he  jumped  overboard  and  saved  it.  As  the  weathei 
was  very  raw  and  chilly,  we  hastened  to  dry  and  warm  the  infant  by 
the  fire,  then  wrapped  it  in  a blanket,  gave  it  a piece  of  sugar,  anc 
returned  it  to  its  parents,  who  appeared  to  be  exceedingly  pleased 
and  grateful.  They  all  soon  recovered  from  the  inconvenience  of 
the  accident,  as  I was  glad  to  find  they  considered  it,  The  appre- 
hensions of  the  other's  being  but  momentary,  we  proceeded  again  to 
business,  which  was  conducted  throughout  the  day  to  mutual  satisfac 
tion. 

Having  observed,  on  the  4th  and  5th,  that  their  store  of  furs  was 
nearly  exhausted,  we  weighed  anchor  the  next  morning,  and,  parting 
on  good  terms  with  the  natives,  steered  up  a narrow  passage,  in  ar. 
easterly'  direction,  till  we  arrived  in  that  extensive  sound,  which  Van 
couver  has  called  Chatham’s  Straits.  Nearly  opposite  to  the  opening 
into  this  sound  is  the  village  of  Hoodsnahoo,  the  tribe  we  had  just 
parted  with  ; and  here  we  came  to  anchor.  Several  women  came 
off,  and  told  us  there  were  no  skins  in  the  village  ; that  the  men  were 
gone  ir  pursuit  of  them  ; and  that  f we  came'  there  again  in  twice 
ten  day  s,  they  should  have  plenty'  Here  we  passed  a day  in  filling 
up  our  empty  water  casks  and  getting  a supply  of  wood. 


94 


FIRST  VOYAGE. 


In  the  afternoon  of  the  9th,  we  put  out  of  the  snug  cove  in  which 
we  were  lying,  having  been  informed  by  the  Indians  that  there  was 
a ship  in  sight.  This  we  found  to  be  true,  as,  on  opening  the  sound, 
we  saw  her  not  more  than  a mile  distant  from  us.  Soon  after,  we 
were  boarded  by  Captain  Rowan,  of  ship  Eliza,  of  Boston,  who  had 
arrived  on  the  coast  at  least  a month  before  us,  and  who,  having  been 
very  successful,  was  now  on  his  way  to  the  southward  to  complete 
his  cargo,  and  then  to  leave  the  coast.  He  mentioned  that  ten  ves- 
sels would  probably  be  despatched  fiom  Boston  for  the  coast  this 
season. 

From  this  information  it  was  evident  that  it  would  require  all  our 
efforts  to  dispose  of  our  articles  of  traffic  advantageously  before  the 
competition  should  reduce  their  value.  For  the  Indians  are  suffi- 
ciently cunning  to  derive  all  possible  advantage  from  competition,  and 
will  go  from  one  vessel  to  another,  and  back  again,  with  assertions  of 
offers  made  to  them,  which  have  no  foundation  in  truth,  and  showing 
themselves  to  be  as  well  versed  in  the  tricks  of  trade  as  the  greatest 
adepts. 

After  taking  leave  of  Captain  Rowan,  we  were  proceeding  along 
the  western  shore  of  the  sound,  with  a light  breeze,  when  we  fell  in 
with  a canoe,  from  which  we  obtained  four  skins,  but  were  obliged  to 
pay  more  for  them  than  for  any  others  we  had  bought.  This  was  in 
consequence  of  their  knowing  what  Captain  Rowan  had  been  paying, 
which,  he  informed  me,  was  twice  as  much  as  I had  given.  We  now 
were  influenced  very  much  by  the  course  of  the  wind,  in  our  deter- 
mination of  going  up  and  down  the  sound,  and  into  its  various  ramifi- 
cations, always  directing  our  course  to  any  point  where  we  discover- 
ed a smoke,  and  remaining  no  longer  than  to  purchase  what  skins  the 
natives  possessed.  On  the  morning  of  the  13th,  having  passed  up 
the  eastern  branch  of  the  sound,  we  came  to  anchor  near  to  a high  iso- 
lated rock.  A space  on  the  top  of  this  was  enclosed  with  a chevaux- 
de-frise ; and  on  the  side  towards  us  it  was  inaccessible.  We  per- 
ceived many  people  moving  about  within  the  enclosure  ; and  soon 
after  coming  to  anchor,  several  canoes  came  off  to  us,  and,  among 
them,  one  large  war  canoe  with  twenty-five  warriors,  with  their  war 
garments  on,  and  well  armed.  This  had  been  but  a short  time  neaf 
us,  before  the  Indians  in  her  gave  a loud  shout,  and  paddled  towards 


TROUBLE  WITH  THE  NATIVES. 


95 


the  shore,  at  the  same  time  discharging  their  muskets  in  the  air,  and 
saying  their  enemy  was  in  sight.  But,  as  the  other  canoes  with  which 
we  were  trading  did  not  leave  us,  nor  evince  any  fear,  I could  not 
help  suspecting  some  stratagem,  t.nd  therefore  made  preparation,  and 
kept  every  man  on  the  alert. 

Scarcely  half  an  hour  had  elapsed  after  the  war  canoe  left  us, 
when  we  again  saw  her  coming,  accompanied  by  two  others  of  equal 
size,  and  equally  well  manned  and  armed.  Three  canoes  were  under 
our  stern  trading  ; and  their  hurried  and  earnest  manner  was  evident- 
ly designed  to  divert  our  attention  from  those  which  were  approach- 
ing. But  as  soon  as  they  were  within  hail,  we  desired  them  to  come 
no  nearer,  on  penalty  of  being  fired  at.  They  then  pulled  leisurely 
towards  the  shore.  Whilst  this  was  transacting,  our  linguist,  in  sell- 
ing a musket,  had  carelessly  laid  a cartridge  of  powder  by  him, 
which  took  fire  and  scorched  him  considerably.  The  blaze  alarmed 
the  Indians,  who,  as  if  conscious  of  intended  mischief  on  their  part, 
suspected  it  on  ours,  as  they  immediately  seized  and  levelled  their 
muskets  at  us.  Without  reflecting  how  useless  was  the  exposure,  I 
involuntarily  seized  and  pointed  a blunderbuss  at  them,  while,  in  a 
moment,  George,  ever  on  the  alert,  was  at  my  side  with  his  musket 
cocked  and  ready  to  fire  ; but,  fortunately,  those  who  managed  the 
paddles  exerted  themselves  to  get  out  of  our  reach,  and  so  soon  in- 
creased the  distance  between  us,  that  no  gun  was  discharged  on  either 
side. 

After  their  fears  were  a little  abated,  we  called  to  some  natives  in  a 
small  canoe,  and  explained  to  them  the  cause  of  the  alarm,  and  de- 
sired them  to  tell  their  friends  that  if  they  would  come  off  in  the 
small  canoes,  and  without  arms,  we  would  trade  with  them.  In  con- 
sequence of  this  invitation,  several  came  off  unarmed  ; and  while 
they  were  engaged  in  disposing  of  their  furs,  we  kept  a lookout  after 
their  comrades.  By  the  aid  of  our  glass  we  perceived  that  they' 
were  putting  their  arms  into  the  small  canoes,  and  embarking  as 
many  men  as  each  would  carry.  When  within  hail,  they  were  cau- 
tioned to  come  no  nearer  ; but  they  persisted  in  advancing  till  they 
saw  that  we  were  pointing  a cannon  at  them.  They  then  returned  to 
the  shore,  and  appeared  to  have  abandoned  their  design,  though  a con- 
siderable armed  body  of  them  kept  on  the  shore  abreast  of  the  vessel 


96 


FIRST  VOYAGE. 


occasionally  firing  their  muskets,  all  day.  The  circumstance  of  tha  t 
women  not  being  with  them,  and  also  that  of  their  having  very  few 
skins,  tended  to  confirm  me  in  the  belief  that,  their  intentions  were 
mischievous.  But,  whatever  may  have  been  their  design,  we  parted 
with  them,  as  we  had  done  with  other  tribes,  on  friendly  terms. 

On  the  15th,  while  steering,  as  we  supposed,  for  the  village  of 
Steeken,  we  came  across  a canoe  belonging  to  that  tribe,  from  which 
we  obtained  directions  for  finding  it  ; but,  as  the  wind  was  light,  and 
a current  against  us,  we  were  unable  to  reach  it  before  dark,  and 
anchored  about  two  miles  off.  During  the  night  there  was  a consid- 
erable  fall  of  snow'.  In  the  morning  we  weighed  anchor,  and,  about 
an  hour  after,  dropped  it  again  abreast  the  village,  Several  canoes 
came  off,  and  sold  us,  in  the  course  of  the  day,  sixty  skins,  several 
cotsacks  (or  cloaks  of  fur),  and  fifty-six  tails.  On  leaving  us,  at 
dark,  they  promised  to  return  the  next  day  with  more  skins,  and 
moreover  told  us  that  if  we  would  remain  five  or  six  days,  several 
great  chiefs  would  arrive  with  their  families,  and  bring  plenty  of  skins. 

Unexpectedly,  one  of  these  very  great  chiefs  arrived  the  next  day 
in  a canoe  quite  as  long  as  my  vessel,  and  ornamented  with,  a rudely 
carved  figure  of  a warrior  on  the  prow,  the  head  of  which  was  deco- 
rated with  real  hair,  filled  with  a mixture  of  grease  and  red  ochre,  and 
the  white  down  of  birds,  The  chief  was  a dignified,  good-looking 
man  of  about  forty-five.  He  was  accompanied  by  twenty-two  athletic 
young  men,  who  appeared  to  handle  their  paddles  with  a graceful- 
ness and  dexterity  as  much  excelling  the  management  of  the  ordinary 
canoes,  as  the  oarsmen  of  a man-of-war’s  barge  surpass  those  of  a 
merchantman.  This  chief  was  very  desirous  to  come  on  board  ; but 
to  have  indulged  him  would  have  been  an  imprudent  exposure  of  the 
smallness  of  our  numbers.  He  then  expressed  a wish  to  have  a 
cannon  discharged  ; and  we  readily  fired  two  in,  immediate  succes- 
sion, which  appeared  to  astonish  and  gratify  him,  and  on  the  subject 
of  which  much  conversation  was  held  with  his  men  ; but  it  was  only 
partially  understood  by  my  linguist,  as  expressing  admiration  of  the 
report.  After  this  the  chief  stood  up  and  made  a speech,  evincing 
his  pleasure,  and  at  the  same  time  handing  up  three  fine  skins  as 
presents.  An  Indian’s  gift  is  understood  here,  as  elsewhere,  to  be 
made  with  the  expectation  of  a generous  return;  and  I gave  to  the 


A SAILOR  DESERTS. 


97 


chief  great  coats,  cloth  knives,  beads,  and  China  cash,  to  more  than 
their  value.  He  drank  half  a tumbler  of  wine  with  great  relish,  and 
then  blew  into  the  air  a quantity  of  the  down  of  birds  in  token  of 
friendship.  As  they  left  us  to  go  ashore,  they  all  began  a song, 
whose  wildness  was  in  perfect  keeping  with  their  appearance,  and  to 
which  they  kept  the  most  exact  time  with  their  paddles. 

The  days  of  the  18th  and  19th  were  rainy  and  unpleasant.  We 
continued  at  anchor,  and  were  visited  by  a number  of  Indians  with 
skins;  but  they  did  not  trade  with  much  spirit.  The  rainy,  chilly 
weather  seemed  to  have  checked  their  animation  ; and  they  would  sit, 
crouched  up  in  their  canoes,  looking  at  us  for  hours  together,  without 
altering  their  position,  while  it  rained  without  cessation.  At  length 
we  observed  a very  old  chief  earnestly  engaged  to  get  his  canoe 
nearer  to  us  ; as  I supposed  to  sell  his  furs  and  be  off.  But  not  so  ; 
his  object  was  to  persuade  me  to  cause  the  rain  to  cease  ; and,  as  an 
inducement,  he  assured  me  they  would  bring  a great  many  skins.  As 
there  was  no  appearance  of  fair  weather,  I told  him  I could  not  do 
so  that  day,  but  might  possibly  the  next.  It  happened  that  the  next 
day  was  fair  ; but  I saw  nothing  more  of  the  chief. 

We  sailed  from  this  place  on  perceiving  that  we  had  exhausted 
their  store  of  skins  ; and,  in  passjng  to  and  fro  in  the  multitude  of  the 
ramifications  of  this  extensive  inland  navigation,  we  met  many  strag- 
gling canoes,  and  seldom  any  one  that  had  not  some  skins  to  dispose 
of.  In  this  way  we  had  a great  advantage  over  a large  vessel ; and, 
by  running  into  various  creeks,  where,  probably,  no  vessel  had  ever 
been  before,  our  collection  of  a few  at  a time  amounted  to  a very  con- 
siderable number. 

On  the  1st  of  May  we  anchored  near  a place  favorable  for  replen- 
ishing our  wood  and  water  ; and,  while  busily  engaged  in  this  busi- 
ness, one  of  my  Irish  sailors,  eluding  the  vigilance  of  the  officer  who 
was  with  the  party,  made  his  escape.  As  he  was  on  an  island  of  no 
great  extent,  and  could  procure  nothing  to  subsist  upon,  there  was  no 
doubt  he  would  endeavor  to  set  on  board  the  first  canoe  he  might  see. 

o o 

Therefore,  as  soon  as  our  business  was  accomplished,  we  proceeded 
to  the  village,  about  four  miles  to  leeward,  and  immediately  despatched 
two  canoes  after  him,  promising  a reward  of  a musket  to  the  one  that 
should  bring  him.  The  canoes  no  sooner  came  in  sight,  than,  having 

9 


98 


FIRST  VOYAGE. 


no  suspicion  that  they  were  in  pursuit  of  him,  he  called  to  them,  and 
one  of  them  readily  took  him  on  board  ; but,  instead  of  bringing  him 
to  us,  put  him  ashore  at  their  village.  The  next  day  it  was  evident 
that  they  had  no  intention  of  returning  him,  as  they  made  various  ex- 
cuses ; such  as  “ he  was  too  strong  for  them  “the  women  would 
not  allow  him  to  be  sent  on  board  ; ” and  “ he  had  gone  away  to  a 
distant  place.”  It  then  became  necessary  to  convince  them  that  I 
was  in  earnest ; and,  hauling  my  cutter  near  to  the  village,  I threat- 
ened them  destruction  with  my  great  guns  if  they  delayed  to  bring 
off  the  man  ; and,  firing  a four-pound  shot  over  them,  it  made  such  a 
cracking  among  the  trees,  that  they  were  too  much  frightened  to 
hesitate  any  longer.  The  man  was  brought  on  board ; and  I 
paid  the  promised  reward,  charging  the  value  to  the  account  of  the 
delinquent.  On  investigation  it  appeared  that  he  and  another  lad  had, 
some  time  past,  determined  on  escaping  in  our  boat,  but  had  never 
found  an  opportunity.  Had  they  succeeded,  as  we  had  only  one  boat, 
the  loss  of  it  would  have  been  very  distressing  to  us. 

For  the  several  succeeding  days  we  did  not  anchor,  but  kept  under 
way,  and  approached  the  shore  wherever  there  was  smoke,  or  where 
we  had  before  met  the  natives.  During  this  time  we  came  across 
many  canoes,  some  of  which  were  looking  for  a vessel  to  trade  with  ; 
and  of  such  stragglers  we  bought  many  skins.  Others  reported  that 
they  had  fallen  in  with  two  ships,  to  which  they  had  disposed  of  all, 
and  were  then  on  their  way  to  look  for  more.  Among  them  was  an 
old  chief,  and  a number  of  men  and  women  of  his  tribe,  whom  we 
remembered  to  have  seen  at  Norfolk  Sound.  They  had  now  their 
faces  blacked,  and  their  hair  cut  short,  which  they  told  us  was  in 
mourning  for  a friend  that  had  lately  been  killed. 

As  we  approached  the  northern  part  of  the  sound,  the  wild  fowl 
became  more  abundant ; and  scarce  a day  passed  that  we  did  not 
kill  a number  of  geese,  turkeys,  and  ducks.  The  latter  were  so 
numerous  as  often  to  darken  the  horizon  in  the  direction  in  which 
they  rose ; and  at  one  time  I fired  a canister  of  musket  balls  from  a 
four-pounder  at  them,  and  killed  six.  Of  fish,  also,  particularly  sal- 
mon and  halibut,  we  had  always  an  abundant  supply,  both  catching 
them  ourselves,  and  procuring  them  from  the  natives.  But  our  pota- 
toes were  consumed,  and  no  vegetable  could  be  had  as  a substitute. 


CHILCAT  TRIBE. 


99 


It  was  yet  too  early  in  the  season  for  wild  beiries  ; and  the  natives 
had  not  reached  that  first  point  of  civilization,  which  is  indicated  by 
an  attention  to  the  cultivation  of  the  earth. 

The  Indians,  who  had  last  left  us,  perceiving  we  were  going  further 
north,  advised  us  to  be  on  our  guard  against  the  Chilcat  tribe,  whose 
village  we  were  approaching,  and  whom  they  represented  as  being 
very  numerous,  very  warlike,  and  very  mischievous.  On  the  6th  of 
May  we  had  arrived  at  the  northern  extremity  of  Chatham’s  Straits, 
near  the  Chilcat  tribe  ; and,  having  a strong  wind  from  the  south,  we 
found  a harbor  in  a neighboring  cove,  and  came  to  anchor  within  a 
cable’s  length  of  the  shore,  being  in  latitude  59°  30/  north.  Here, 
sheltered  from  the  violence  of  the  south  wind,  we  lay  in  smooth  wa- 
ter ; but,  owing  to  the  boisterous  state  of  the  weather  outside,  only 
two  canoes  came  to  us  this  day. 

The  wind  having  subsided  during  the  night,  was  succeeded  by  a 
calm.  This  being  favorable  for  the  canoes,  they  arrived  in  surprising 
numbers.  AVe  had  witnessed  nothing  to  be  compared  with  it  since 
our  arrival  on  the  coast.  Coming  in  divisions  of  four  or  five  each, 
by  ten  o’clock  twenty-six  were  assembled  in  the  cove,  some  of  which 
were  as  long  as  my  vessel,  and  carrying  from  twelve  to  twenty-eight 
persons  each,  making  an  aggregate  of  about  five  hundred  men,  all 
well  armed  with  muskets,  spears,  and  daggers.  They  were  unac- 
companied by  their  women  and  children,  and  had  but  few  skins,  which 
was  a certain  indication  that  their  intentions  were  of  a hostile  char- 
acter. 

It  will  be  perceived  that  our  situation  was  now  one  of  great  dan- 
ger. The  calm  continuing,  rendered  it  impossible  for  us  to  retreat; 
and  it  was  obvious,  that  if  they  attacked  us  with  resolution,  their  great 
superiority  of  numbers  would  enable  them  to  overwhelm  us,  before 
the  guns  could  be  reloaded,  after  the  first  discharge.  Our  only  alter- 
native, then,  was  to  make  the  best  preparation  in  our  power  for  re- 
pelling an  attack,  and  to  sell  our  lives  as  dearly  as  possible  ; for  our 
men  were  all  convinced  that  death  was  greatly  to  be  preferred  to 
falling  alive  into  the  hands  of  these  barbarians.  Accordingly,  our 
cannon  were  all  loaded  with  bags  of  musket  balls.  Our  small  arms, 
two  muskets  and  two  pistols  for  each  man,  were  also  loaded  ; and  oui 
pikes  placed  at  hand. 


ICO 


FIRST  VOYAGE. 


The  Indians  passed  most  of  the  day  in  their  canoes,  keeping  at 
about  a cable’s  length  distant  from  our  vessel,  continually  endeavor- 
ing to  persuade  us  to  let  them  approach,  by  the  assurance  of  having  a 
great  many  skins.  Our  own  men,  at  the  same  time,  with  lighted 
matches,  were  all  day  at  the  guns,  pointing  at  them  as  they  altered 
their  positions  ; while  our  linguist  was  calling  to  them  not  to  advance, 
on  pain  of  destruction  from  the  great  guns.  In  this  hostile  attitude 
each  party  remained  all  day.  In  the  forenoon  we  observed  two  large 
canoes  to  go  away,  which,  returning  before  night,  we  supposed  might 
have  been  sent  for  reinforcements.  The  day  had  been  a long  and 
anxious  one  ; and  when  night  came,  we  were  rejoiced  to  see  them  go 
on  shore,  haul  up  their  canoes,  and  build  their  fires.  They  remained 
quiet  during  the  night,  excepting  mocking,  our  watch,  as  each  half 
hour  was  called  out.  Early  next  morning  there  sprang  up  a breeze 
from  the  northward,  when  we  got  under  way  and  proceeded  out  of 
tlse  cove,  the  Indians  begging  us  to  remain  another  day,  and  promising, 
us  a great  many  skins.  We  had  scarcely  got  into  the  broad  part  of 
the  sound  before  we  met  two  war  canoes,  each  containing  twenty-si* 
men,  well  armed,  who  were  on  their  way  to  join  the  others  ^ and  for 
whose  arrival  the  attack  had  probably  been  delayed.  Of  these  I pur- 
chased four  skins  in  passing  ; and  they  were  exceedingly  anxious  we 
should  return  and  anchor  again,  assuring  us  of  a great  many  skins. 
On  perceiving  their  persuasions  to  be  of  no  avail,  they  showed  evi- 
dent demonstrations  of  great  disappointment. 

But  I discovered  afterwards,  on  falling  in  with  the  English  ship 
Cheerful,  Captain  Beck,  that  they  were  instigated  to  attack  us  by  a 
greater  stimulus  than  their  cupidity,  namely,  a desire  for  revenge.  It 
appeared,  from  Captain  Beck’s  account,  that  his  ship  had  run  aground 
on  a sand  bank,  near  where  we  had  anchored,  about  a month  before  ; 
that,  while  carrying  out  an  anchor,  the  natives  were  seen  approach- 
ing in  great  numbers,  and,  he  had  no  doubt,  with  hostile  intentions. 
He  therefore  called  his  men  on  board,,  and  prepared  for  resistance. 
As  they  advanced  towards  him,  he  cautioned  them  to  come  no  nearer  "f 
but,  disregarding  the  warning,  and  still  approaching,  he  fired  over 
them.  This  not  producing  the  desired  effect  of  intimidating  them,  he 
reluctantly  fired  among  them,  and  supposes  he  killed  and  wounded 
several,  as  there  were  great  cries  heard,  great  confusion  in  the  fleet 


STRIKE  A LEDGE. 


101 


and  an  instantaneous  retreat.  Captain  Beck  had  left  Macao  in  Sep- 
tember, but  had  been  little  more  than  a month  on  the  coast,  and  had 
not  met  with  good  success. 

After  leaving  the  Chilcat  tribe,  as  above  mentioned,  we  steered 
southward,  till  we  reached  that  branch  of  the  sound  which  runs  in  an 
easterly  direction.  It  was  deemed  advisable  to  sail  up  this  branch, 
and  round  those  islands,  which  are  called,  by  Vancouver,  Admiralty, 
Macartney’s  and  Duke  of  York’s  Islands,  visiting  the  several  tribes 
who  inhabit  their  shores,  and  purchasing  all  the  furs  they  had  collected. 
For,  having  at  this  time,  19th  of  May,  nearly  expended  our  articles 
of  barter  to  great  advantage,  it  was  requisite  that  we  should  make 
preparation  for  leaving  the  coast,  by  getting  a supply  of  wood  and 
filling  up  our  water-casks. 

The  next  day,  while  steering  to  the  westward  with  this  intention, 
and  going  at  the  rate  of  about  two  knots,  unsuspicious  of  danger,  the 
vessel  suddenly  struck  a sunken  ledge,  and  stopped.  Perceiving  that 
she  hung  abaft  the  midships,  and  that  there  were  three  and  a half 
fathoms  under  the  bows,  we  immediately  run  all  the  guns  forward, 
and  carried  out  an  anchor  ahead  ; but  the  tide  ebbed  so  rapidly,  that 
our  efforts  to  heave  her  off  were  ineffectual.  We  therefore  heeled 
her  on  the  side,  whence  she  would  be  less  likely  to  roll  over.  At  low 
water  the  position  of  the  vessel  was  such  as  to  afford  but  feeble 
expectation  that  she  could  escape  bilging.  She  hung  by  about  four 
feet  amidships,  having  slid  about  as  much  on  the  rock  as  the  tide  fell, 
and  brought  up  with  the  end  of  the  bowsprit  against  the  bottom.  Her 
keel  formed  an  angle  of  forty-five  degrees  with  the  water  line,  the 
after  part  of  it  being  from  fourteen  to  fifteen  feet  above  the  rock. 
This  position,  combined  with  a rank  heel  to  starboard,  rendered  it 
impossible  to  stand  on  deck.  We  therefore  put  a number  of  loaded 
muskets  into  the  boat,  and  prepared  for  such  resistance,  in  case  of 
being  attacked,  as  could  be  made  by  fifteen  men,  crowded  into  a 
sixteen  feet  boat. 

Our  situation  was  now  one  of  the  most  painful  anxiety,  no  less  from 
the  immediate  prospect  of  losing  our  vessel,  and  the  rich  cargo  we 
had  collected  with  so  much  toil,  than  from  the  apprehension  of  being 
discovered  in  this  defenceless  state  by  some  one  of  the  hostile  tribes 
by  which  we  were  surrounded.  A canoe  of  the  largest  class,  with 
9* 


102 


FIRST  VOYAGE. 


thirty  warriors,  well  armed,  had  left  us  not  more  than  half  an  hour 
before  we  struck,  who  were  now  prevented  from  seeing  us  by  having 
passed  round  an  island.  Should  the  vessel  bilge,  there  existed  scarcely 
any  other  chance  for  the  preservation  of  our  lives,  than  the  precarious 
one  of  falling  in  with  some  ship.  That  she  would  bilge  there  was  no 
reason  to  doubt,  if  the  weather  varied  in  any  degree  from  that  perfect 
calm  which  then  prevailed.  More  than  ten  hours  were  passed  in  this 
agonizing  state  of  suspense,  watching  the  horizon  to  discover  if  any 
savages  were  approaching, — the  heavens,  if  there  were  a cloud  that 
might  chance  to  ruffle  the  smooth  surface  of  the  water,  — the  vessel, 
whose  occasional  cracking  seemed  to  warn  us  of  destruction;  and, 
when  the  tide  began  to  flow,  impatiently  observing  its  apparently 
sluggish  advance,  while  I involuntarily  consulted  my  watch,  the  hands 
of  which  seemed  to  have  forgotten  to  move.  In  this  painful  interval, 
1 beguiled  some  little  time,  while  seated  in  the  boat,  by  taking  a sketch 
of  the  hazardous  situation  of  my  cutter,  at  low  water,  fearing  that  it 
might  soon  be  beyond  my  power  to  give  such  evidence  of  her  sad 
fate. 

At  length,  the  water  having  flowed  over  the  coamings  of  the 
hatches,  which  had  been  caulked  down  in  anticipation  of  this  event, 
without  any  indication  of  the  vessel’s  lifting,  I was  deliberating  on  the 
propriety  of  cutting  away  the  mast,  when  we  perceived  her  to  be 
rising.  She  soon  after  righted  so  much,  that  we  could  go  on  board  ; 
and  at  half  past  twelve  in  the  night  we  had  the  indescribable  pleasure 
of  seeing  her  afloat  again,  without  having  received  any  other  apparent 
injury  than  the  loss  of  a few  sheets  of  copper. 

To  the  perfect  calm,  smooth  water,  and  uncommon  strength  of  the 
vessel,  may  be  attributed  our  escape  from  this  truly  perilous  situation. 
On  the  23d,  being  in  a favorable  place,  and  where  there  were  no 
indications  of  natives  in  the  immediate  vicinity,  we  took  the  oppor- 
tunity to  lay  the  vessel  ashore.  The  tide  having  left  her,  it  was 
evident  that  there  was  no  material  injury.  The  keel  was  considerably 
brushed,  from  the  effects  of  having  slid  while  on  the  rock.  From 
the  same  cause,  several  sheets  of  copper  were  rolled  up,  and  a few 
feet  of  the  sheathing,  under  the  copper,  very  much  broken.  All 
these  were  repaired  as  well  as  our  time  and  means  would  permit ; and 
at  high  water  we  hauled  off  again. 


NORFOLK  SOUND. 


103 


We  passed  another  week  in  cruising  about  the  sound  ; but  per- 
ceiving that  the  stock  of  the  natives  in  this  quarter  was  so  exhausted 
that  when  we  came  across  a canoe  they  had  seldom  any  skins  with 
them,  it  was  deemed  expedient  to  leave  Chatham’s  Straits.  We 
determined,  therefore,  to  proceed  to  Norfolk  Sound  again,  there  pick 
up  what  we  could  by  lying  a day  or  two,  and  then  go  to  Charlotte’s 
Islands,  previous  to  taking  a final  farewell  of  the  coast.  With  this 
intention  we  steered  westward.  Arriving  in  the  broad  part  of  the 
sound,  the  course  of  which  is  north  and  south,  and  having  the  wind 
from  the  southward,  we  could  make  but  little  progress  on  our  way. 
In  the  afternoon  the  south  wind  increased  greatly,  and  caused  such  a 
sea  as  latterly  we  had  been  entirely  unaccustomed  to.  As  much 
fatigue  and  some  risk  would  be  incurred  by  attempting  to  pass  the 
night  in  tacking  to  and  fro  in  the  sound,  without  a possibility,  while 
the  wind  was  so  high  and  the  sea  so  rough,  of  advancing  at  all  on 
our  way,  it  became  very  desirable  to  find  a harbor ; and  a little  before 
sunset,  being  near  the  eastern  side  of  the  sound,  we  perceived  an 
opening  of  about  a fourth  of  a mile,  between  two  precipitous  hills, 
clothed  from  the  bottom  to  their  summits  with  pine.  The  hills  on 
each  side  forming  the  entrance  were  so  decisively  indicative  of 
sufficient  depth  of  water,  that  we  ran  boldly  in,  without  taking  the 
precaution  of  first  sending  the  boat  to  reconnoitre.  We  were  imme- 
diately becalmed  on  passing  the  entrance,  and,  using  our  sweeps, 
rowed  but  a third  of  a mile  before  we  were  in  perfectly  smoolh  water. 
The  passage,  having  become  narrower  as  we  had  advanced  in  it, 
rendered  anchoring  unnecessary  ; and  we  kept  the  vessel  suspended, 
between  the  two  shores,  by  ropes  made  fast  to  the  trees. 

Our  position  was  quite  romantic.  The  thick-wooded  hills  on  either 
side  seemed  almost  to  unite  at  the  top  ; the  dark  gloom  overhanging 
all  around  ; the  silence  and  tranquillity  which  had  so  instantaneously 
succeeded  the  roar  and  turbulence  of  the  sea  without  ; and  the  comfort 
and  security  for  the  night  of  which  we  had  a prospect,  all  combined 
to  produce  sensations  of  a most  pleasing  character.  While  musing 
on  the  scenery  about  us,  and  while  it  was  yet  twilight,  I perceived  a 
movement  in  the  bushes,  and  in  a moment  a large  bear  made  his 
appearance,  probably  attracted  by  the  scent  of  the  vessel.  As  the 
object  of  killing  him  did  not  appear  to  me  to  compensate  the  risk  of 


104 


FIRST  VOYAGE. 


the  attempt,  I refused  permission  to  my  men  to  go  ashore  for  that 
purpose  ; but,  as  he  .seemed  disposed  to  remain  and  make  our 
acquaintance,  1 caused  a four-pounder  to  be  discharged  at  him.  The 
piece  was  elevated  too  high  ; the  ball  went  over  him,  making  a great 
cracking  among  the  bushes,  and  the  reverberation  of  the  report  was 
long  and  loud.  He  did  not  wait  for  a second,  but  scampered  olf 
among  the  bushes,  and  we  saw  him  no  more. 

The  wind  having  come  round  to  the  northwestward  during  the  night, 
we  put  out  early  in  the  morning  of  the  30th,  and,  steering  southward, 
before  night  we  had  an  unbounded  ocean  open  to  our  view.  This 
little  variation  to  the  scene  was  quite  agreeable,  as  we  had  now  been 
two  months  navigating  inland,  without  having  even  a sight  of  the  ocean, 
and  having  been  at  all  times  surrounded  with  lofty  mountains,  whose 
sides  present  an  impenetrable  forest  of  pine  wood,  and  whose  sum- 
mits (at  the  north)  are,  most  of  the  year,  covered  with  ice  and  snow. 

On  the  1st  of  June,  approaching  Norfolk  Sound,  a ship  was  per- 
ceived going  in  before  us,  which  proved  to  be  the  Hancock,  of  Boston, 
Captain  Crocker,  who  had  arrived  on  the  coast  in  April.  As  we  drew 
near  to  her  after  she  had  anchored,  a considerable  bustle  was  per- 
ceived on  board,  as  if  they  were  preparing  for  defence  ; which,  I 
was  afterwards  amused  to  find,  arose  from  our  suspicious  and  uncouth 
appearance.  This,  to  be  sure,  was  rather  unusual,  from  the  circum- 
stance of  our  beards,  at  this  time,  being  four  or  five  inches  long ; as, 
having  found  the  operation  of  shaving  to  be  difficult,  where  the  motion 
of  the  vessel  was  so  great,  I had  neglected  it  since  leaving  China, 
and  my  officers  and  men  bad  followed  my  example ; so  that  it  must 
be  admitted,  we  did  present  an  appearance  so  little  prepossessing,  that 
it  was  very  excusable  for  people  whom  we  approached  to  be  on  their 
guard. 

The  following  day,  arrived  and  anchored  near  us  the  ship  De- 
spatch, of  Boston,  Captain  Breek,  which,  as  well  as  the  other  ship,  had 
arrived  on  the  coast  rather  too  late  to  insure  successful  voyages  the 
present  season.  While  three  vessels  were  lying  together  here,  it  was 
amusing  to  observe  the  adroitness  and  cunning  with  which  the  Indians 
derived  all  possible  advantage  from  the  competition.  They  had 
succeeded  in  raising  the  price  of  their  skins  so  high  that  there  was  a 
necessity,  at  last,  of  our  entering  into  an  agreement  respecting  the 


SKITTIGATES. 


105 


price  to  be  given,  which  ought  to  have  been  made  at  first ; as  not 
less  requisite  to  profit,  than  to  despatch. 

Although  nearly  a week  was  passed  here,  yet  the  natives  showed 
so  little  earnestness  to  dispose  of  their  furs,  that  very  few  were  pur- 
chased till  the  day  before  our  departure,  and  when  they  had  taken 
ample  time  to  satisfy  themselves  they  were  obtaining  the  highest 
price.  The  whole  number  of  skins  purchased  during  this  time,  by 
the  three  vessels,  did  not  exceed  together  more  than  two  hundred  and 
fifty,  and  for  these  we  paid  more  than  twice  as  much  as  for  those 
which  were  obtained  here  on  my  arrival. 

Leaving  this  place  on  the  7th,  and  pursuing  a course  to  the  south- 
ward, we  fell  in,  a week  after,  with  the  ship  Ulysses,  of  Boston,  Cap- 
tain Lamb.  This  ship  had  arrived  on  the  coast  a month  before  us  ; 
but  the  success  which  ought  to  have  resulted  from  so  early  an  arrival 
was  defeated  by  a mutiny  of  long  And  ruinous  duration.  Thus  it 
appears  that  no  less  than  three  ships  had  arrived  on  the  coast  before 
us,  and  that  to  accident,  not  less  than  to  industry  and  perseverance, 
were  we  indebted  for  our  great  success. 

A long  continued  southerly  wind  so  retarded  our  passage  to  Char- 
lotte’s Islands,  that  we  did  not  reach  the  Skittigates,  (the  largest  tribe 
of  these  islands,)  till  the  20th,  having  found  it  advisable  to  make  a 
harbor  on  the  way,  where  we  lay  three  days,  and  were  screened  from 
the  effects  of  a southeast  gale.  In  the  mean  time  our  men  were 
employed  in  replenishing  our  stock  of  wood  and  water.  When  near 
to  the  Skittigates,  it  being  calm  and  the  current  running  out,  we 
anchored  about  two  miles  north  of  their  village.  As  this  was  a 
numerous  and  warlike  tribe,  whose  intercourse  with  foreigners  had 
been  great,  and  to  whose  hostility  and  treachery  some  of  them  had 
fallen  victims,  there  was  a necessity  for  the  observance  of  all  that 
vigilance  on  our  part,  to  guard  against  surprise,  that  we  had  been  in 
the  practice  of  observing.  One  of  this  tribe,  in  order  to  decoy  men 
ashore,  covered  himself  in  a bear’s  skin,  and  came  out  of  the  border 
of  the  wood,  on  all  fours,  abreast  the  ship,  while  a party  lay  in  ambush 
ready  to  fire  on  those  who  should  come  in  pursuit.  The  stratagem 
would  have  succeeded,  h$d  not  one  of  the  natives  been  too  earnest  to 
come  forward,  so  as  to  be  discovered  in  time  for  the  boat  to  retreat, 
before  any  mischief  had  occurred. 


10G 


FIRST  VOYAGE. 


Soon  after  anchoring  a canoe  came  to  us,  from  which  we  procured 
three  skins.  The  Indians  in  this  canoe  assured  us  that  there  were 
plenty  of  skins  at  the  village,  and  manifested  a desire  that  we  should 
go  there.  In  the  morning  of  the  21st,  several  canoes  came  to  us 
with  some  of  the  inferior  chiefs.  They  were  very  urgent  in  their 
entreaties  for  us  to  go  up  to  the  village,  alleging  that  it  was  so  far  for 
them  to  come,  that  many  would  be  deterred  by  it  from  bringing  their 
skins.  Their  solicitations,  however,  were  of  no  avail,  as  I had  no 
doubt  that  those  who  had  skins  to  dispose  of  would  not  be  prevented 
from  coming  to  us  by  the  distance,  and  that  we  should  avoid  the  visits 
of  the  mischievous  and  idle,  by  remaining  at  our  present  anchorage. 
By  nine  o’clock,  we  had  many  canoes  assembled  about  us  ; but  they 
appeared  to  be  so  indifferent  about  trading,  that  it  was  past  noon 
before  they  began  ; yet,  such  was  their  alacrity  when  they  did  begin, 
that  by  dark  they  had  sold  us  upwards  of  one  hundred  skins,  and 
one  hundred  and  thirty  tails.  The  succeeding  day  was  squally  and 
unpleasant,  and  we  had  a smaller  number  of  the  natives  about  us. 
We  purchased,  however,  eighty-five  skins,  and  as  many  tails. 
Towards  evening  a canoe  came  to  us  with  the  son  of  the  chief  of  the 
Skittigates  on  board,  who  told  us  that  if  we  would  remain  another 
day,  his  father  would  come  to  us,  and  bring  a great  many  skins.  In 
the  night,  which  was  perfectly  calm,  we  heard  frequent  and  wild 
bowlings  at  the  village,  and  occasionally  the  report  of  a musket. 

The  morning  of  the  23d  was  calm,  and  a favorable  current  for  the 
Indians  to  come  to  us  ; but,  having  waited  till  near  noon  without 
seeing  a single  canoe  moving,  we  were  at  a loss  to  conjecture  the 
reason,  more  especially  after  the  promise  of  the  king’s  son,  last 
evening.  In  case,  however,  of  their  bringing  many  skins,  as  they 
promised,  we  had  not  the  means  of  purchasing  them,  our  articles  of 
barter  being  nearly  expended.  It  was  therefore  judged  best  not  to 
wait  to  ascertain  the  cause  of  such  extraordinary  conduct;  and,  having 
a light  breeze  from  the  south,  we  put  out  with  the  intention  of  going 
over  to  the  Coneyaws. 

The  next  day,  when  about  two  leagues  south  of  Point  Rose,  the 
breeze  not  being  sufficient  to  enable  us  to  stem  the  current,  we  came 
to  anchor.  Soon  afterwards,  two  large  canoes  came  to  us,  in  one 
of  which  was  a young,  good-looking  warrior,  the  son-in-law  of 


SENSIBILITY  OF  A NATIVE. 


107 


Coneyaw,  who  is  head  chief  of  the  Tytantes  tribe,  and  who,  with 
other  warriors,  had  come  over  on  a hostile  expedition  against 
Cummashaw’s  tribe.  Being  so  nearly  on  the  point  of  leaving  the 
coast,  and  therefore  fearing  no  bad  consequences  from  an  exposure 
of  our  weakness,  I acceded  to  the  earnest  solicitations  of  this  young 
warrior  to  come  on  board.  This  was  the  only  one  of  the  natives 
whom  we  bad  admitted  on  board  since  being  on  the  coast.  We 
invited  him  into  the  cabin,  and  gave  him  a glass  of  wine,  which 
pleased  him  so  much  that  he  soon  asked  for  another.  Having  made 
me  a present  of  a very  fine  skin,  I made  a return  of  a shirt,  jacket, 
and  pantaloons,  which  he  immediately  put  on,  and  appeared  to  be 
well  satisfied  with  the  figure  he  made,  and  much  pleased  with  the 
dress.  But  the  friendly  feelings  I had  inspired  suffered  a momentary 
interruption,  by  my  careless  and  apparently  rude  manner  of  giving 
him  a handkerchief.  Being  on  the  opposite  side  of  the  cabin  from 
that  on  which  I was  sitting,  I threw  it  into  his  lap,  which,  instead  of 
taking,  he  allowed  to  roll  down  on  the  floor,  his  feelings  so  much 
wounded  that  he  actually  shed  tears ; nor  was  it  without  considerable 
effort,  that  we  persuaded  him  that  no  insult  was  intended,  by  assuring 
him  that  it  arose  from  my  ignorance  of  the  etiquette  which  custom 
had  established  among  them.  This  little  interruption  to  our  harmony 
was  of  short  duration,  the  party  aggrieved  being  satisfied  with  my 
apology  ; and  having  purchased  of  him  and  his  comrades  about  sixty 
skins,  we  parted  with  mutual  good-will  and  friendship. 

It  was  now  time  to  make  the  necessary  preparation  for  leaving  the 
coast,  by  filling  up  our  water-casks,  and  procuring  sufficient  wood  for 
the  passage  to  China.  With  this  intention  we  directed  our  course  for 
Tatiskee  cove,  where,  having  anchored,  we  set  about  cutting  wood 
wuth  all  diligence,  and  also  procuring  our  supply  of  water.  This 
work  being  accomplished,  we  were  ready  for  our  departure  on  the 
26th ; but  the  wind  was  from  the  south,  and  the  weather  rainy  and 
boisterous.  It  was  therefore  decidedly  most  advantageous  for  us  to 
lie  quietly  in  the  snug  port  where  we  were  anchored,  and  wait  for  a 
fair  wind  and  the  return  of  good  weather  before  putting  to  sea. 

The  wind  having  changed  to  the  westward  during  the  night,  on  the 
morning  of  the  27th  of  June  we  weighed  anchor  for  the  last  time  on 
he  coast,  and  put  to  sea,  intending  to  reconnoitre  North  Island  before 


108 


FIRST  VOYAGE. 


bidding  farewell  to  the  coast.  But,  owing  to  a contrary  current,  it 
was  late  in  the  afternoon  before  we  passed  the  southern  point  of 
Kiganny  ; previous  to  which  we  were  boarded  by  the  celebrated  chief 
Kow,  a man  whose  intelligence  and  honest  demeanor  recommended 
him  to  all  who  had  any  dealings  with  him.  He  had  always  been  in 
the  habit  of  coming  on  board  the  Cutter  on  her  former  voyages, 
and  had  never  failed  to  receive  the  most  generous  and  friendly 
treatment  from  Captain  Lay,  her  former  master,  whom  he  was  much 
disappointed  in  not  finding  on  board.  For  the  few  skins  he  had  we 
paid  him  1 iberally  ; and  he  left  us  much  satisfied. 

The  following  day,  at  noon,  we  had  arrived  opposite  and  near  to 
the  village  on  North  Island.  A number  of  canoes  soon  came  off,  in 
one  of  which  was  the  chief  Coneyaw,  and  in  another  Eltargee.  The 
latter  had,  a year  or  two  ago,  accidentally,  it  was  said,  caused  the 
death  of  a Captain  Newberry,  by  the  discharge  of  a pistol,  which  he 
did  not  know  was  loaded.  His  looks,  however,  were  so  much  against 
him,  and,  in  the  short  intercourse  wc  had  with  him,  his  actions  and 
manner  so  corresponded  with  his  looks,  that  I should  require  the 
clearest  evidence  to  be  satisfied  that  the  disaster  was  purely  the  effect 
of  accident. 


CHAPTER  VIII. 


Sail  for  Sandwich  Islands  — Satisfaction  — 0 whyhee  — Provisions  and  Fruit  — Satires 
— Mowee  — Proceed  westward  — Tinian  — Anchor  in  the  Typa  — Ship  Ontario  —• 
Reflections  caused  by  her  Loss-— Proceed  to  Whampoa  and  Canton — Take  a Fac 
tory  — Contract  for  the  Cargo  — Causes  operating  to  discourage  a Return  to  th» 
Coast  — 1 Sell  the  Cutter  — Sail  for  Calcutta  — Malacca  — Pulo  Pinang  — Procure  a 
Pilot- — Arrive  at  Calcutta. 


the  few  skins  offered  me, 
amounting  to  thirty-two,  while  under  sail  ; and 
now,  having  no  other  object  to  detain  us  longer  on 
the  coast,  we,  at  four,  P.  M.,  bade  farewell  to  the 
natives.  With  a fine  breeze  from  west-northwest, 
I steered  to  the  southwest,  not  less  happy  in  the 
successful  accomplishment  of  my  object,  than  in 
the  reflection  of  its  having  been  attained  without 
injury  to  the  natives,  or  other  than  the  most  friendly 
interchange  of  commodities  with  them.  Indeed,  now 
that  I \Vas  fairly  at  sea,  and  free  from  the  chance  of 
those  casualties  to  which  I had  so  long  been  subjected, 
the  relief  from  anxiety,  the  comparative  feeling  of  security, 
the  satisfaction  arising  from  a thorough  performance  of 
duty,  and  from  the  independence  to  which  it  led  in  this 
instance,  can  be  more  easily  imagined  than  described. 
Nor  was  this  pleasure  in  any  degree  diminished  by  the  task,  which 
yet  remained,  of  proceeding  to  China  ; as  this  was  a passage,  for  the 
most  part,  through  the  trade-winds,  where  the  weather  was  fine  and 
the  sea  smooth,  and  where,  consequently,  one  great  cause  of  the  dis- 
satisfaction of  my  men  would  be  removed. 

During  our  passage  to  the  Sandwich  Islands  no  incident  occurred 
to  varv  the  monotony  of  the  voyage.  We  had  none  other  than  a fair 
wind  5 indeed  the  gales  were  so  propitious,  that  we  had  sight  of 
10 


110 


FIRST  VOYAGE. 


Owhyhee  the  twentieth  day  after  taking  our  departure  from  the  coast 
of  America.  At  three,  P.  Mi,  of  the  19th  of  July,  the  snow-capped 
summit  of  that  island  was  seen  above  the  clouds,  at  a distance  of  at 
least  twenty-five  leagues,  and  bearing  southwest  by  west.  Standing 
in  boldly  for  the  shore  all  night,  we  were,  at  dawn,  within  about  a 
mile  of  it,  and  saw  several  beautiful  runs  of  water  falling  in  cascades 
over  perpendicular  precipices  into  the  sea.  We  perceived,  also,  a 
mustering  among  the  natives  to  come  off  to  us.  The  sea,  however, 
was  so  rough,  that  only  two  or  three  attempted  it;  and  having  bought 
of  these  a few  melons  and  cabbages,  we  proceeded  to  leeward, 
towards  Toiyahyah  Bay,  in  the  hope  of  finding  smoother  water. 
This  was  discovered  as  soon  as  we  doubled  round  Kohollo  Point, 
when  a multitude  of  canoes  came  off  to  us,  bringing  a great  supply 
of  hogs,  potatoes,  taro,  cabbages,  water  and  musk  melons,  sugar- 
cane, &LC. 

We  admitted  a chief  on  board,  who,  while  he  kept  the  natives  in 
order,  and  guarded  us  against  having  too  many  on  board  at  a time, 
served  us  also  as  a broker,  and  very  much  facilitated  our  purchases. 
He  remained  on  board  all  night,  and  was  equally  serviceable  to  us 
the  next  day,  when,  by  noon,  having  a sufficient  supply  of  every 
thing  which  the  island  afforded,  we  dismissed  our  broker  with  satis- 
factory presents,  and  pursued  our  course  to  the  westward. 

The  very  limited  intercourse  we  had  with  the  natives  of  this  island 
was  hardly  sufficient  to  enable  us  to  form  a correct  judgment  of  their 
general  character.  The  contrast  which  their  cleanliness  forms  with 
the  filthy  appearance  of  the  natives  of  the  Northwest  Coast,  will  not 
fail  to  attract  the  attention  of  the  most  unobserving.  Nor  have  they 
less  advantage  over  their  Northwest  neighbors  in  the  size,  shape, 
and  gracefulness  of  their  persons,  and  in  the  open,  laughing,  generous, 
and  animated  expression  of  their  countenances.  The  characteristics 
of  these  islanders  are  activity,  gayety,  volatility,  and  irritability  ; 
those  of  the  Northwest  Indians,  heaviness,  melancholy,  austerity, 
ferocity,  and  treachery.  They  are,  perhaps,  in  each  case,  such  as 
would  naturally  be  inferred  to  be  the  effect  of  climate  operating  on 
the  materials  of  rude  and  savage  characters. 

The  expertness  of  these  islanders  in  the  art  of  swimming  has  been 
remarked  by  the  earliest  navigators ; and  Meares  mentions  some 


SANDWICH  ISLANDS. 


Ill 


divers,  who,  in  attempting  to  recover  an  anchor  he  had  lost,  remained 
under  water  during  the  space  of  five  minutes.  Whether  there  are 
any  such  at  the  present  day,  is  very  doubtful ; although  it  must  be 
confessed  I saw  no  evidence  that  would  induce  the  belief  of  their 
talent  being  in  any  degree  diminished. 

On  the  21st  we  saw  the  Island  Mowee,  bearing  north  by  east,  about 
twelve  leagues  distant.  Our  course  to  the  westward  was  attended  with 
the  weather  which  is  usual  in  the  trade-winds,  in  genera!  fine,  though 
sometimes  interrupted  by  a squall,  which  serves  to  rouse  the  sailor 
from  the  inactivity  which  a long  course  of  such  weather  is  apt  tc 
produce.  With  a moderate  and  even  sea  rolling  after,  and  helping 
us  on  our  course,  and  with  a great  abundance  and  variety  of  such 
products  of  the  vegetable  world  as  we  had  long  been  destitute  of,  we 
were  living  so  luxuriously,  and  sailing  along  so  much  at  our  ease,  sc 
entirely  free  from  any  thing  like  labor  or  fatigue,  that  our  men 
appeared  to  consider  it  as  an  ample  compensation  for  the  fatigue  and 
exposure  of  the  first  part  of  the  voyage. 

On  the  15th  of  August,  1799,  we  passed  between  the  islands  Agui- 
gan  and  Tinian,  and  very  near  to  the  latter  ; but,  as  it  was  after  dark 
when  we  were  nearest  it,  we  had  not  an  opportunity  of  seeing  those 
beauties  which  are  so  pleasingly  described  by  the  narrator  of  Lord 
Anson’s  voyage,  as  well  as  by  more  recent  navigators.  In  our  passage 
between  these  and  the  Bashi  Islands,  we  had  so  great  a portion  of 
westerly  winds,  that  we  did  not  reach  the  latter  till  the  8th  of  Sep- 
tember, having,  during  that  period,  experienced  much  rainy,  squally, 
and  disagreeable  weather.  We  passed  the  Bashi  Islands  in  the  night, 
with  a moderate  breeze  from  east-southeast;  and  the  following  night 
we  were  among  tide-rips,  which  caused  such  a roar,  and  so  great  an 
agitation  of  the  water,  as  to  resemble  breakers. 

On  the  13th,  we  saw  the  east  end  of  the  Grand  Lema,  and,  at 
three  o’clock  next  morning,  sailed  between  its  western  end  and  the 
island  next  to  it ; and,  passing  the  island  of  Lantao  at  dawn,  we  came 
to  anchor  in  the  Typa  at  eleven  o'clock,  A.  M.  I immediately  went 
Ashore  and  made  report  to  the  Governor,  engaged  a pilot  to  come  on 
board  in  the  morning,  and  spent  an  hour  with  an  American  resident 
supercargo,  who  gave  me  much  European  and  other  news. 

From  this  gentleman  I learned  that  the  ship  Ontario,  with  hei 


112 


FIRST  VOYAGE. 


cargo,  had  been  totally  lost  a few  days  after  leaving  Canton  for  New 
York.  This  was  the  ship  in  which  I had  been  so  eager  to  embark. 
I had  come  very  near  having  my  desire  gratified,  and  had  been 
severely  disappointed  when  I found  that  the  place  I wished  was  filled 
by  another.  If  I had  succeeded,  ruin  must  have  been  the  conse- 
quence. My  emotions  on  hearing  this  news  were  of  a mingled 
character;  while  I mourned  over  the  fate  of  a worthy  friend,  I was 
filled  with  gratitude  at  my  own  escape,  and  my  present  prosperity  ; the 
feelings  of  discontent  in  which  I had  sometimes  indulged  were 
rebuked  ; I was  taught  to  bear  disappointments  with,  patience  and 
resignation,  as  we  cannot  foresee  the  good  which  may  result  from 
them  ; and  I was  inspired-with  that  confidence  in  a superintending 
Providence,  which  affords  repose  to  the  spirit  under  all  the  trials  of 
life. 

In  conformity  with  his  engagement,  the  pilot  came  on  board  in  the 
morning  us  soon  as  the  tide  served,  when,  having  weighed  anchor,  we 
beat  out  of  the  Typa  and  passed  Macao  roads  with  a moderate  breeze 
at  southeast,  which  continued  so  light  throughout  the  day  that  we  did 
not  reach  Anson’s  Bay  till  nearly  midnight.  Here  we  anchored  till 
the  tide  became  favorable,  when,  proceeding  to  Whampoa,  we  arrived 
there  and  anchored  above  the  fleet  in  the  night  of  the  15th. 

Having,  the  next  day,  taken  a boat  for  Canton,  I accepted  the  hos* 
pitality  of  one  of  my  countrymen  till  I could  procure  a factory.  In 
the  mean  time,  I gave  letters  to  several  China  merchants,  directed  to 
my  officer  on  board,  to  permit  the  bearers  of  them  to  examine  the 
cargo.  I engaged  the  factory  No.  1,  Nuequas  Hong,  and  as  soon  as 
it  was  furnished,  moved  into  it.  On  the  25th  of  September,  having 
had  various  oilers  for  the  cargo,  and  the  best  being  that  of  Nuequa,  I 
contracted  with  him  for  it  at  the  rate  of  twenty-three  dollars  a skin, 
cash,  or  twenty-six  dollars  to  be  paid  in  produce,  or  any  proportion 
at  these  rates. 

This  contract  being  made,  and  the  payment  to  be  prompt  on  delivery 
of  the  cargo,  it  became  necessary  to  determine,  without  delay,  what 
course  it  was  most  advisable  to  pursue  next.  The  cutter,  independ- 
ently of  the  objection  of  size,  being  a foreign  bottom,  could  not  take 
& cargo  to  the  United  States  without  being  subjected  to  the  payment 
of  such  increased  duties  as  would  be  equal  to  the  amount  of  the 


SELL  THE  CUTTER. 


118 


freight  of  an  American  bottom.  To  l’eturn  again  to  the  Northwest 
Coast  offered  a prospect  as  promising  as  any  plan  which  presented 
itself  to  my  mind,  and  could  I have  obtained  an  orderly  crew,  might 
have  been  the  most  advisable.  But  to  undertake  another  voyage  with 
a crew  composed  of  such  men  as  I had,  (and  none  besides  deserters 
from  other  ships  could  be  procured,)  was  little  better  than  living  for 
such  time  with  a knife  at  my  throat;  which,  at  any  unguarded 
moment,  might  be  made  to  close  the  scene.  The  small  size  of  the 
vessel  was  another  important  objection  ; as,  besides  the  privations 
inseparable  from  navigating  in  it,  there  was  an  increased  danger  from 
the  hostility  of  the  savages.  And  as,  in  consequence,  a greater 
number  of  men  was  required  than  could  be  well  lodged  and  provi- 
sioned for  so  long  a time,  this  tended  to  create  among  them  dissatis- 
faction, sullenness,  and  finally  mutiny.  Besides’  this,  my  inclination 
for  such  uncommon  exposure  and  fatigue,  was  diminished  in  propor- 
tion to  the  recent  increase  of  my  fortune. 

From  these  considerations,  — and  not  entirely  uninfluenced  by  a 
desire  of  visiting  the  capital  of  British  India,  I made  an  arrangement 
to  this  effect,  by  disposing  of  the  cutter  to  Robert  Berry,  Esq.,  and  a 
cargo  of  teas  and  other  articles  of  his  selection,  to  the  amount  of 
fifteen  thousand  dollars,  making  together  twenty-one  thousand  dollars: 
for  which  I took  a respondentia  bond  with  a premium  about  equal  to 
the  risk,  and  interest,  payable  three  months  after  my  arrival  at 
Calcutta.  In  addition  to  this,  I took  with  me  gold  bars  to  the  amount 
of  three  thousand  dollars. 

In  the  mean  time,  while  coming  to  this  decision,  my  cargo  had 
been  transported  to  Canton  and  delivered  to  the  purchaser  ; my  crew 
had  been  paid  off,  and  a new  one  shipped  of  less  than  half  the  number 
of  the  former  voyage.  The  cutter  again  became  the  Dragon  ; hoisted 
English  colors,  and  had  an  English  master  appointed  to  her,  because 
by  our  ti’eaty  with  Great  Britain  it  was  not  permitted  us  to  bring  a 
cargo  from  China  to  Calcutta  in  an  American  vessel. 

The' cargo  for  account  of  Mr.  B.  having  been  shipped,  and  having 
made  an  agreement  with  him  to  ship  to  my  friends  in  the  United 
States,  as  opportunities  for  freighting  offered,  the  remainder  of  the 
proceeds  of  my  cargo  of  furs,  I proceeded  to  Whampoa  on  the  20th 
October,  1799 ; where  finding  all  things  ready,  I embarked  as 
10* 


114 


FIRST  VOYAGE. 


passenger,  and  the  next  day  weighed  anchor  and  run  down  between 
first  and  second  bar  ; where  we  received  our  sea  stock  from  the  Hop- 
poo  man  ; and  when  the  tide  made  in  our  favor,  took  advantage  of  it  as 
far  as  Anson’s  Bay,  where  arriving  at  dark,  and  having  appearances 
of  bad  weather,  we  came  to  anchor  Towards  the  latter  part  of  the 
night  the  wind  became  more  easterly  and  increased  with  rain  ; and 
at  daylight  it  blew  with  a degree  of  violence  which  amounted  to  a 
typhoon,  and  which  it  seemed  as  if  nothing  but  the  hills  were  capable 
of  resisting.  Here  our  good  fortune  was  again  manifest ; for  if  we 
had  been  ready  only  twelve  hours  sooner,  we  must  have  encountered 
this  gale  in  a position  that  would  have  rendered  our  chance  of  escap- 
ing shipwreck  very  small.  As  it  was,  while  riding  in  a smooth  bay, 
the  wind  blowing  off  the  shore,  from  which  we  lay  not  more  than  a 
cable’s  length,  we  parted  our  cable,  and  brought  up  with  our  best 
bower,  with  which  we  rode  out  the  gale  in  safety.  The  23d  the  gale 
abated,  but  it  continued  all  day  very  rainy,  squally,  disagreeable 
weather;  we  therefore  lay  at  anchor,  and  employed  some  Chinameu 
to  get  the  anchor  from  which  the  cable  had  parted,  in  which  the} 
succeeded  without  much  difficulty,  brought  it  to  us,  and  received  then 
reward.  The  wind  generally  southeast. 

The  next  day  the  wind  was  light  and  baffling  ; but  in  the  night 
came  round  to  the  northward,  with  clear  weather  ; and  on  the  25th 
we  passed  Macao  roads,  where  we  saw  two  large  English  ships,  one 
of  which  had  lost  all  her  topmasts,  doubtless  in  the  late  gale.  We 
passed  near  to  and  spoke  the  ship  Eliza,  Rowan,  who  had  been  to 
the  Spanish  coast  since  we  had  seen  them.  With  a strong  breeze 
from  east-northeast,  we  steered  to  the  southwest,  and,  at  dawning  of 
the  28th,  were  near  to  the  China  coast,  having  passed  in  sight  ofPulo 
Campella.  In  the  course  of  the  following  night,  we  passed  near  to 
Pulo  Canton,  and  then  steered  south-southeast.  The  coast  was  in 
sight  most  of  the  day,  and  a strong  current  in  our  favor,  as  was  man- 
ifest from  the  circumstance  of  making  one  hundred  ninety-three 
miles  difference  of  latitude.  We  saw  the  high  land  abreast  Pulo 
Cecil-,  on  the  31st,  and  also  the  Island  Pulo  Cecir  demar,  and,  at  the 
same  time,  were  on  the  bank  of  Holland,  apparently  in  no  very  deep 
water.  The  next  day  we  were  prevented  seeing  Pulo  Condor  by 
reason  of  a hazy  atmosphere. 


MALACCA. 


115 


On  the  3d  day  of  November  the  weather  was  very  squally,  and 
wind  variable.  In  the  night  sounded  several  times  in  thirty  and  twenty- 
five  fathoms,  and,  at  dawning,  saw  Pulo  Timoan.  We  entered  the 
straits  between  point  Romania  and  Piedra  Blanca  on  the  5th  ; after 
which,  steered  west  by  south  for  St.  John’s  Island,  and,  having  passed 
it,  we  took  the  wind  fi-om  west-southwest,  and  beat  through  the  nar- 
rows between  the  Rabbit  and  Coney  and  Red  Island.  We  continued 
to  work  to  the  westward,  with  the  wind  for  the  most  part  from  that 
quarter,  and  occasionally  anchoring  when  the  current  was  against  us 

While  at  anchor,  close  in  with  the  shore,  between  mount  Formosa 
and  mount  Moora,  we  saw  a fleet  of  eleven  Malay  proas  pass  by  to 
the  eastward,  from  whose  view  we  supposed  ourselves  to  have  been 
screened  by  the  trees  and  bushes  near  to  which  we  were  lying.  On 
perceiving  so  great  a number  of  large  proas  sailing  together,  we 
had  scarcely  a doubt  of  their  being  pirates,  and  therefore  immediately 
loaded  our  guns  and  prepared  for  defence  ; though  conscious  that  the 
fearful  odds  in  numbers  between  our  crew  of  ten  men  and  theirs, 
which  probably  exceeded  a hundred  to  each  vessel,  left  us  scarce  a 
ray  of  hope  of  successful  resistance.  We  watched  their  progress, 
therefore,  with  that  intense  interest  which  men  may  naturally  be 
supposed  to  feel, # whose  fortune,  liberty,  and  life,  were  dependent,  on 
the  mere  chance  of  their  passing  by  without  seeing  us.  To  our  great 
joy,  they  did  so ; and  when  the  sails  of  the  last  of  the  fleet  were  no 
longer  discernible  from  deck,  and  we  realized  the  certaintv  of 
escape,  our  feelings  of  relief  were  in  proportion  to  the  danger  which 
had  threatened  us. 

Arriving  at  Malacca  on  the  11th,  the  curiosity  of  the  people  was 
greatly  excited  to  know  how  we  had  escaped  the  fleet  of  pirates 
which  had  been  seen  from  the  town;  as  the  strait  to  the  eastward  is 
so  narrow  that  it  appeared  to  them  to  be  impossible  for  us  to  pass 
without  seeing  each  other;  and  when  informed  of  our  being  screened 
by  the  trees  from  their  sight,  they  offered  us  their  hearty  and  reiterated 
congratulations. 

Having  the  next  day  filled  up  our  water-casks,  and  laid  in  a supply 
of  vegetables  and  fruit  sufficient  for  our  consumption  till  our  arrival 
at  Calcutta,  we  should  without  further  delay  have  proceeded  on  out 
voyage,  had  the  prospect  been  favorable  ; but  the  westerly  winds 


116 


FIRST  VOYAGE. 


continued  to  blow  with  such  violence  for  several  days  immediately 
succeeding  our  arrival,  that  it  was  evidently  the  part  of  wisdom  to  lay 
at  anchortill  their  force  had  abated,  which  was  not  the  case  till  the  14th, 
when  there  was  less  wind  throughout  the  day.  In  the  evening  the  land 
breeze  came  off  strong,  and  being  all  ready  to  take  advantage  of  it,  we 
weighed  anchor,  made  sail,  and  stood  to  the  westward  on  a wind  al'r 
night ; and,  at  dawning,  tacked  to  the  northward  and  came  in  with 
the  land  about  three  miles  east  of  Cape  Ricardo. 

The  town  of  Malacca  is  situated  in  a level  country  near  the  sea, 
and  is  defended  by  works  built  on  a rocky  foundation,  and  of  great 
height.  It  was  taken  from  the  Portuguese  by  the  Dutch  in  1640,  and 
remained  in  their  possession  till  taken  from  them  in  the  late  war  by 
the  English,  who  held  it  at  the  time  I was  there.  Its  inhabitants  are 
composed  of  Dutch,  Portuguese,  English,  Chinese,  and  Malays.  The 
trade  of  this  place  was  very  much  diminished  in  consequence,  princi- 
pally, of  the  increasing  growth  of  the  English  settlement  at  Pulo 
Pinahg.  The  revenue  arising  from  imports  and  exports  was  this 
year,  ft  799,)  farmed  to  some  Chinese  residents  for  fifty-two  thousand 
dollars.  There  are  several  very  pretty  country-seats  about  three 
miles  from  the  town ; and  the  country  generally  abounds  with  the 
cocoa-nut  tree.  But  its  latitude,  only  two  degrees  north  of  the 
equator,  deters  all  Europeans  from  making  it  their  residence,  except- 
ing those  who  are  willing  to  sacrifice  comfort  to  the  acquisition  of 
wealth. 

While  proceeding  on  our  passage  to  the  westward  we  were  frequently 
obliged  to  anchor  in  deep  water  ; and  on  the  night  of  the  15th,  while- 
lying  in  twenty-four  fathoms,  a squall  came  with  such  violence  as  to 
part  our  cable,  a~nd  caused  the  loss  of  our  anchor  ; a circumstance 
the  more  to  be  regretted  as  we  had  but  one  more,  and  had  yet  a pros- 
pect before  us  of  frequent  anchoring.  On  the  19th  and  20th  the 
Island  of  Pulo  Pinang  was  in  sight,  the  wind  light  from  northwest. 
As  the  winds  during  the  daytime  were  very  light  and  variable,  we 
made  but  slow  progress  in  getting  to  the  north,  and  even  this  only  by 
keeping  close  in  with  the  shore,  and  taking  advantage  of  the  land 
breeze,  which  came  off  regularly,  and  generally  in  squalls  of  rain, 
thunder,  and  lightning.  In  the  five  days  between  the  22d  and  27th, 
we  had  made  only  three  degrees  difference  of  latitude,  having  passed’, 
in  the  time,  near  a great  many  islands. 


ARRIVE  AT  CALCUTTA. 


117 


On  the  3d  December  we  sawr  Diamond  Island,  after  passing  which 
we  had  the  regular  northeast  monsoon.  The  two  succeeding  days 
we  were  in  sight  of  the  island  Cheduba,  and  the  coast  of  Ava. 

Being  now  in  latitude  19°  north,  we  steered  to  the  northwest  with 
the  wind  free,  and  on  the  10th  anchored  in  fifteen  fathoms  near  the 
sand  heads,  it  being  calm.  The  next  morning  at  daylight  a number 
of  vessels  were  near  us,  from  one  of  which  we  procured  a pilot,  who 
informed  us  that  the  large  ships  then  near  us  were  the  Lord  Hawkes- 
bury  and  a Portuguese  ship  bound  in,  the  latter  of  which  had  had  an 
engagement,  and  beaten  off  a French  privateer  of  eighteen  guns  the 
day  before,  and  that  the  Company’s  cruiser,  Nonsuch,  had  gone  in 
pursuit  of  her.  Another  fortunate  escape;  as,  arriving  one  dav 
earlier,  we  should  have- fallen  into  the  hands  of  this  privateer,  and, 
being  under  English  colors,  the  property  would  have  been  a total  loss. 
In  the  night  we  came  to  anchor  near  the  shipping  in  Saugur  Beads 
the  next,  day  we  got  as  far  as  Cudjeree  ; the  day  following  to  Fulta  ; 
'tnd  on  the  13th  of  December,  1799,  arrived  safely  at  Calcutta. 


CHAPTER  IX. 


Captain  Lay  — Take  a House — Servants  — George  pressed  — Application  for  his 
Release  to  Town  Major  and  to  the  Chief  of  Police  — Unsuccessful — To  Lord  Morn- 
ington — George  restored — His  Gratitude  — American  Commerce — Buy  a Boat  — 
Danish  Flag  — Deer  Hunt  by  Tigers — Observations  on  Calcutta  — Sail  for  Isle  of 
France  — Culpu  — Danger  in  passing  the  Barabulla  — Arrival  at  Isle  of  France. 


Wkl  23  M I met  again  my  worthy  friend  Captain  Lay, 
of  whom  I bought  the  cutter,  and  of  whose  kind 
hospitality  Captain  Hassell  and  myself  availed 
ourselves  till  we  could  procure  and  prepare  a house. 
For  a hotel,  or  a public  boarding-house,  was  a thing 
unknown  in  this  country. 

Having  ascertained  from  the  consignee  of  the 
^ cutter,  that  the  cargo  being  of  dull  sale,  there  was 

no  prospect  of  his  being  able  to  pay  the  amount  of  the 
' respondentia  bond  before  the  expiration  of  the  time 
specified  therein,  it  was  obvious  that  I had  a detention 
0f  three  months  before  me,  unless  I should  find  it 
advantageous  to  lay  in  an  investment  for  the  United  States, 
yi  and  could  make  an  arrangement  for  its  payment  when  the 
^ bond  became  due.  I therefore  sought  a house  distant  from 
business  part  of  the  town,  and  where  the  rent  would  be  propor- 
tionally low.  Such  a one  I found  in  the  Bow  Bazaar,  had  it  furnished 
in  the  most  economical  style,  and  took  possession  on  the  15th  of 
December.  The  multitude  of  servants,  which  custom  required  for 
the  establishment  of  those  even,  who  were  desirous  of  living  in  the 
most  frugal  manner,  was  alarming.  Mine,  including  palanquin- 
bearers,  cooks,  stewards,  and  waiters,  amounted  to  eight,  exclusive  of 
my  black  man,  George ; a number  that  seems  to  be  enough  to  ruin  a 
man  of  small  fi irtune,  till  it  is  considered  how  very  small  is  their  pay, 
and  how  little  their  food  costs  compared  with  ours. 


IMPRESSMENT  OF  GEORGE. 


119 


Being  thus  established,  and  my  mind  made  up  for  a state  of  inac- 
tivity for  the  next  three  months,  I was  the  better  able  to  enjoy  the 
relaxation  from  the  sense  of  its  being  unavoidable.  I rambled  about 
tire  town  in  the  morning  before  the  heat  became  oppressive  ; books 
afforded  a resource  during  the  day  ; and  towards  evening  I was  taken 
in  my  palanquin  to  the  river’s  side,  where,  alighting,  I walked  on 
the  Esplanade  to  Fort  William,  and  was  charmed  with  the  music  of 
a fine  military  band,  which  played  there  every  evening.  In  this  way, 
with  little  variation,  the  first  ten  days  of  my  residence  in  Calcutta 
were  passed:  Nor  had  I any  idea  that  the  remainder  of  my  term 

there  would  not  slide  away  in  the  same  even  course.  For  I did  not 
conceive  that  there  was  a chance  of  my  coming  in  collision  with  any 
one,  much  less  with  the  municipal  authorities  of  the  place. 

But  from  this  state  of  quiet  I was  one  day  roused  by  the  entrance 
of  one  of  the  messengers  of  the  police  office,  who  informed  me  that 
a black  man,  who  said  he  was  in  my  service,  had  been  taken  up  as  a 
sailor,  and  that  l must  appear  directly  at  the  office,  and  state  my 
claim  to  him,  or  he  would  be  sent  on  board  ship.  Instead  of  attending 
this  summons  in  person,  I sent,  by  the  same  messenger,  a note 
stating  that  the  black  man  in  question  was  my  servant,  and  begged  he 
might  be  released  forthwith.  This  proceeding  was  probably  consid- 
ered to  be  disrespectful,  as  it  was  of  no  avail.  George’s  absence 
continuing,  I went  in  the  afternoon  in  pursuit,  and  found,  on  inquiry, 
that  he  had  been  put  into  the  custody  of  the  town  major,  who  resided 
in  Fort  William,  in  order  to  be  sent,  with  others  who  had  been  pressed, 
on  board  an  Indiaman  lying  in  the  river  below.  It  was  evening 
before  I could  find  this  officer,  whom  I begged  to  suspend  sending 
George  with  the  others  till  I could  see  the  magistrate  and  obtain  his 
release.  But  he  told  me  his  orders  were  peremptory,  and  that  he 
should  be  obliged  to  send  him  away  as  soon  as  the  tide  was  favorable, 
to  be  put  on  board  the  Sir  Stephen  Lushington. 

I now  almost  despaired  of  ever  again  seeing  my  trusty  man,  whose 
fidelity  had  been  so  thoroughly  proved,  and  for  whose  situation  I felt 
the  greatest  sympathy,  not  unmingled  with  remorse  at  not  having 
gone  to  the  office  in  person  to  claim  him.  So  entirely  did  this  sub- 
ject absorb  my  mind,  that  I was  dreaming  of  it  all  night.  The  next 
day,  being  Christmas,  the  police  office  was  closed.  I therefore  went, 


120 


FIRST  VOYAGE. 


between  nine  and  ten  o’clock  in  the  morning,  to  the  dwelling  of  the 
magistrate,  who,  I was  informed,  had  just  gone  out  to  call  on  the 
Captain  of  the  Indiaman,  on  board  which  George  had  been  sent.  1 
hastened  to  the  house  where  they  were,  and  was  introduced  by  a 
servant  in  livery  into  a spacious  apartment,  where  were  the  two 
gentlemen,  apparently  on  the  point  of  going  to  church. 

His  worship  was  a portly,  good-looking  man,  of  about  sixty,  dressed 
in  a full  suit  of  black,  with  a powdered  wig.  On  my  entering  the 
room,  both  gentlemen  rose  and  advanced  towards  me,  when,  address- 
ing myself  to  the  Justice  with  the  humility  of  a person  who  is  going 
to  ask  a very  great  favor  of  a man  so  very  great,  that  he  had  only  to 
nod  and  it  is  granted,  I made  known  my  business.  He  replied  by 
inquiring,  in  a tone  which  indicated  a sense  of  the  advantage  he  had 
over  me,  why  I had  not  appeared  at  the  office,  when  sent  for  to  claim 
the  man.  I told  him,  that,  being  engaged  at  the  time,  I supposed  my 
certificate  would  have  been  sufficient  to  insure  his  release.  u No,” 
he  said,  “ it  was  not,”  and  added,  in  a tone  and  manner  which  was 
any  thing  but  respectful,  “ the  fellow  whom  you  call  your  servant  I 
believe  to  be  a good  sailor  ; as  such  I have  sent  him  on  board  ship, 
and  shall  give  no  directions  for  his  emancipation.” 

Indignant  at  such  treatment,  I replied  in  a tone  of  which  he  had 
set  the  example,  “ Such  proceeding,  Sir,  is  very  extraordinary.  I 
doubt  its  being  sanctioned  by  Lord  Mornington.  And  why  cannot 
you  take  me,  and  send  me  on  board  ship,  with  the  same  propriety  you 
do  my  servant  ? ” Such  a question,  in  such  a tone,  from  so  young  a 
man,  and  one  whose  demeanor  had  been  so  meek,  was  evidently 
unexpected,  and  seemed  to  rouse  the  wrath  of  his  worship  to  the 
highest  pitch.  His  face  became  like  scarlet.  He  seized  hold  of  his 
newly-powdered  wig,  and  pulled  it  over  one  ear,  made  a complete 
revolution  on  his  heel,  and,  with  fire  flashing  in  his  eyes,  stamped  on 
the  floor,  and  in  a stentorian  voice  demanded,  And  who  are  you, 
Sir?  ” (At  this  time  I observed  that  the  other  gentleman,  not  being 
able  to  suppress  his  laughter,  had  turned  away.)  I replied,  “ I am  an 
American  citizen,  Sir,  and  one  who  is  not  unacquainted  with  what  is 
due  to  that  character.”  “ Well,  where  do  you  live,  Sir,  — your  name, 
— your  address  ? ” taking  out  his  paper  and  pencil,  and  writing  in 
a hurried  and  agitated  manner ; and  then  observed,  “ I shall  send  for 


RELEASE  OF  GEORGE. 


121 


you  to-morrow,  Sir.”  I told  him  1 should  not  let  the  business  rest  till 
to-morrow,  made  my  bow,  and  left  him. 

It  was  now  very  evident  that  I must  procure  the  interference  of 
superior  authority,  or  I might  not  only  lose  George,  but  be  subject  to 
some  annoyance  myself.  I therefore  went  home,  and  immediately  set 
about  writing  a letter  to  the  Governor-General.  The  facts  I had  to 
state  were  very  simple  and  clear  ; the  oppression  of  which  I had  to 
complain  1 was  satisfied  could  not  be  countenanced  ; and  I therefore 
felt  a confidence  in  a happy  result.  As  soon  as  my  letter  was  written, 
I went  with  it  myself  to  the  palace,  and  delivered  it  to  the  Secretary 
of  his  Excellency,  who,  on  ascertaining  its  contents,  assured  me  that 
immediate  attention  should  be  paid  to  it.  Nor  could  there  have  been 
any  delay  in  fulfilling  this  promise  by  sending  the  same  night  to  the 
ship,  which  lay  several  miles  below  ; as,  before  ten  o’clock  next 
morning,  George  made  his  appearance  at  my  house,  accompanied  by 
an  orderly  sergeant,  who  had  been  sent  to  conduct  him  to  me. 

As  I heard  nothing  further  from  the  magistrate,  I concluded  that  he 
received  a word  of  advice  from  high  authority,  by  which  others  of 
my  countrymen  may  have  escaped  a similar  annoyance.  Never  was 
joy  more  clearly  depicted  in  any  countenance  than  in  George’s  when 
he  met  me.  He  showed  his  white  teeth,  and  making  an  effort  to 
express  his  gratitude,  exclaimed,  “ O massa,  a tousand  tanks,  a tousand 
tanks,  George  be  glad  to  sarve  you  he  lifetime.”  This  joy  was  indeed 
reciprocal  ; for,  if  from  no  other  cause,  we  had  passed  together 
through  too  many  trying  scenes  not  to  have  excited  in  me  the  greatest 
sympathy  for  his  detention,  and  no  less  pleasure  at  his  release. 

The  commerce  of  the  United  States  with  Calcutta  at  that  period 
was  very  different  from  what  it  is  at  present.  During  the  three 
months  of  my  residence  there,  no  less  than  twelve  ships  were  laden 
with  the  produce  and  manufactures  of  Hindostan  for  the  United 
States,  whose  cargoes  would  average  about  two  hundred  thousand 
dollars  each.  This  demand  for  manufactures,  for  which  the  pur- 
chasers preferred  to  pay  an  increased  price,  rather  than  to  keep  their 
ships  waiting,  had  a tendency,  in  the  course  of  two  months,  to  raise 
the  prices  twenty  per  cent.,  and  entirely  discouraged  my  thinking  of 
an  investment  for  the  United  States.  Nor  could  I reconcile  to  myself 
a longer  period  of  inactivity  than  that  limited  by  the  receipts  of  the 
11 


122 


FIRST  VOYAGE. 


amount  of  the  respondentia  bond,  especially  as  the  sultry  and 
unhealthy  season  was  advancing. 

While  in  doubt  what  course  to  pursue,  the  Isle  of  France  was 
suggested,  among  other  plans,  as  offering  a fair  field  for  speculation. 
The  great  success  of  the  privateers  from  that  place  led  to  the  infer- 
ence, that  prize  ships  and  prize  goods  would  be  procurable  there  at 
very  low  rates.  And  as  the  Danes,  at  this  time,  were  the  only 
European  neutrals,  a cargo  could  be  transported  from  thence  to 
Tranquebar,  under  the  Danish  flag,  in  safety,  and  with  great  profit. 
But,  how  to  get  to  the  Isle  of  France  ? this  was  a difficulty  of  no 
trifling  magnitude.  There  was  no  vessel  going  in  which  I could  take 
passage.  To  purchase  one  to  go  to  a place  where  I supposed  them  to 
be  so  abundant  and  cheap,  would  be  “ carrying  coals  to  Newcastle 
besides  which  it  would  have  been  difficult,  in  a vessel  of  moderate 
size,  to  escape  the  vigilance  of  the  Bengal  government,  who  were 
decidedly  hostile  to  all  intercourse  with  the  Isle  of  France. 

1 determined,  therefore,  to  procure  a boat  of  a size  so  diminutive  as 
to  elude  observation,  and,  at  the  same  time,  of  so  little  value  that 
much  could  not  be  lost  on  a re-sale.  Such  an  one  I found  at  Calcutta 
nearly  finished,  of  about  twenty-five  tons,  which  1 soon  made  a bar- 
gain for,  to  bo  completed  immediately,  to  be  rigged  as  a pilot  boat,  with 
mainsail,  foresail,  and  jib;  to  be  coppered  to  the  bends,  and  to  be 
delivered,  as  soon  as  possible,  at  the  Danish  settlement  of  Serampore; 
for  which  I engaged  to  pay  five  thousand  rupees.  The  contract  being 
in  due  time  fulfilled  by  the  delivery  of  the  vessel  at  Serampore,  I 
there  got  her  put  under  the  Danish  flag  ; and  a cargo  of  oil,  wax, 
ghie,  Ac.  purchased  to  the  amount  of  five  thousand  rupees,  of  suf- 
ficient weight  only  to  put  her  in  good  ballast  trim.  As  the  Americans, 
at  this  time,  had  a kind  of  pseudo  war  with  the  French,  it  was  advis- 
able to  neglect  no  precaution  in  guarding  against  embarrassment  that 
might  arise  on  this  account;  and  I therefore  became  a burgher  of 
the  Danish  settlement  of  Serampore. 

While  these  transactions  were  in  progress,  the  time  had  come 
round  for  the  payment  of  the  bond  ; the  amount  of  which  was  forth- 
coming at  that  moment.  I had  now  passed  three  months  in  the  city 
of  Calcutta,  having  made  during  the  time  no  other  excursion  than  one 
to  Serampore,  and  another  to  the  botanic  garden.  The  former  makes 


CALCUTTA 


123 


a very  pleasing  appearance  along  the  ms  rgin  of  the  river.  To  the 
extent  of  nearly  a mile,  well-built  houses,  neatly  white-washed,  give 
it  the  appearance  of  being  larger  than  it  really  is,  as  the  town  is  of 
very  limited  extent  back  from  the  river.  The  botanic  garden  is 
pleasantly  situated  on  a bend  of  the  Hoogly,  called  Garden  reach, 
but  it  was  not  neatly  kept.  No  temperature  can  be  more  delightful 
than  that  of  Calcutta  during  the  months  of  December,  January,  and 
February.  It  is  very  dry  and  heaitliful ; and  the  nights  I found  to  be 
invariably  cool  and  comfortable,  though  there  is  always  a necessity 
for  the  use  of  mosquito  curtains. 

During  my  residence  at  Calcutta.  I witnessed  an  amusement  which, 
I believe,  is  peculiar  to  India,  the  chase  of  deer  by  tigers.  The  arena 
occupied  a space  of  more  than  a hundred  acres,  the  borders  of  which 
were  lined  with  mounted  dragoons  to  guard  against  mischief  from 
the  tigers.  The  tigers  had  a blind  of  leather  over  their  eyes,  were 
led  by  a string  held  by  their  black  keepers,  and  appeared  to  be  under 
perfect  control.  They  had  belonged  to  Tippoo  Saib,  and  were  much 
smaller  than  the  royal  tiger.  While  one  of  them  was  held  by  his 
keeper  at  one  end  of  the  field,  the  deer  was  let  loose  in  the  centre. 
At  this  moment,  the  blind  being  removed  from  the  eyes  of  the  tiger, 
he  darted  forward  with  inconceivable  velocity  ; and  although  the  deer 
put  forth  all  his  strength  to  escape,  the  tiger  had  caught  him  before 
he  had  reached  the  other  extremity  of  the  field.  It  was  a cruel 
sport  ; and  I did  not  wait  to  see  a repetition,  or  how  the  tigers  were 
again  brought  under  control. 

But  the  English  resident  of  Calcutta  seems  to  think  less  of  the 
amusements  which  are  peculiar  to  Europe,  than  of  indulging  himself 
in  the  utmost  refinement  of  luxury,  which  the  combined  ingenuity  of 
European  and  Asiatic  epicures  can  invent.  The  multitude  of  servants, 
which  custom  seems  to  have  rendered  necessary  to  the  man  of  fortune, 
and  to  which  he  becomes  familiarized  by  habit,  commonly  unfits  him 
for  a residence  in  Europe  afterwards.  His  durvan,  peons,  circars, 
chubdars,  harcareahs,  huccabadar,  jemmadar,  and  consumas,  form  a 
list  of  obsequious  beings,  each,  at  the  masters’s  nod,  ready  to  perform 
the  duty  peculiar  to  his  office  with  a cheerfulness  and  alacrity,  such 
as  a despot  does  not  always  rect  ive  from  his  slave.  He  is  dressed 
and  undressed,  washed,  shaved,  and  combed,  without  any  effort  of 
his  own,  and  precisely  as  if  he  were  incapable  of  any  exertion. 


124 


FIRST  VOYAGE. 


The  dinner  horn  is  usually  after  sunset;  and  convivial  parties  sel- 
dom retire  before  midnight.  Over  the  dinner  table  is  hung  an  im- 
mense  fan,  extending  the  whole  length  of  the  table  ; and  this  being  put 
in  motion  by  strings  attached  to  it,  pulled  by  servants  in  adjoining 
rooms,  there  is  always  a breeze  to  counteract  the  effect  of  hot  soups 
and  meats  in  a hot  climate.  There  is  a great  variety  of  fruits  pecu- 
liar to  the  climate,  of  fine  quality  and  very  abundant  and  cheap. 

At  the  period  of  my  residence  in  Calcutta  there  were  no  buildings, 
public  or  private,  which  would  be  remarked  by  a stranger  for  their 
architectural  beauty  or  magnificence,  or  as  conforming  to  the  generally 
received  idea  of  the  splendor  of  the  British  capital  of  India.  But 
any  defect  in  this  respect  was  amply  compensated  for  by  the  magni- 
tude, the  strength,  the  beauty,  and  extraordinary  neatness  of  Fort 
William.  The  complete  and  elegant  finish  which  has  been  given  to 
it  affords  proof  of  the  command  of  ample  means.  The  cost  is  said 
to  have  been  two  millions  sterling.,  Of  this  fort,  and  the  fine  military 
band  which  played  every  evening,  1 retain  the  most  lively  and  pleas- 
ing recollections;  and  not  less  so,  of  the  civility  of  several  officers 
of  the  garrison.  Very  few  evenings  passed  that  I was  rot  present, 
and  never  failed  to  be  equally  delighted  with  the  order,  discipline, 
extreme  neatness,  and  soldier-like  appearance  of  the  troops,  as  well 
as  the  performers,  and  with  those  sweet  sounds,  which  seemed  to 
remain  vibrating  on  the  ear  long  after  they  had  in  reality  ceased. 

The  horrid  tragedy  of  the  Black  Hole  of  Calcutta  has  given  to  it 
such  dreadful  notoriety  as  will  make  the  event  familiar  to  ages  yet 
unborn.  Over  the  spot  on  which  it  occurred  is  erected  an  obelisk, 
which  already  gives  indications  that  it  is  not  long  destined  to  perpetu- 
ate the  sad  story  for  which  it  was  erected. 

The  black  town,  as  it  is  called  from  being  exclusively  inhabited  by 
natives,  extends  to  the  north  of  the  other.  The  buildings  are  com- 
posed of  very  frail  materials,  mud  walls,  mats,  and  bamboos  ; and  the 
streets  being  narrow,  conflagrations  are  frequent  and  extensive.  The 
natives  of  Hindostan  are  remarked  for  an  amiability  of  disposition,  an 
evenness  of  temper,  and  habits  of  regularity  and  docility,  which 
render  them  invaluable  as  domestics,  and  I have  been  assured  they 
are  not  less  remarkable  for  their  fidelity  and  honesty.  But  the  most 
striking  feature  in  the  character  of  these  people  is  their  veneration 


DEPARTURE  FROM  CALCUTTA, 


12b 


for  the  customs  and  institutions  of  their  ancestors.  Their  food,  their 
dress,  their  processions,  and  marriages,  are  all  under  the  jurisdiction 
of  religion.  It  prescribes  rules  of  conduct  under  all  circumstances, 
and  there  is  scarcely  any  thing,  however  trifling,  which  it  treats  with 
indifference.  Many  of  the  native  merchants  possess  large  fortunes, 
and  some  of  them  have  apartments  fitted  up  in  the  European  style, 
and  live  at  a corresponding  expense. 

On  the  18th  of  March  1 saw  my  boat  pass  by  Calcutta,  which,  in 
conformity  with  previous  arrangements,  was  to  wait  for  me  above 
Fulta.  As  no  notice  was  taken  of  her  by  the  English  authorities 
when  she  passed,  I felt  secure  from  any  interruption  from  that  quarter. 
The  next  day,  with  the  balance  of  my  funds  in  bills  and  gold  mohurs, 
I proceeded  in  a native  boat,  accompanied  by  my  man  George,  to 
join  the  vessel.  In  conformity  with  an  understanding  with  the  osten- 
sible owner,  I found  her  manned  with  a Danish  captain  and  mate  and 
four  lascar  seamen  ; and  myself  and  servant  embarked  in  the  quality 
of  passengers.  Soon  after  joining  the  vessel,  as  the  tide  was  favora- 
ble, we  proceeded  on  our  course  and  came  to  anchor  at  Fulta,  in  order 
to  purchase  a supply  of  fowls,  &c.,  but  found  their  stock  to  have 
been  exhausted  by  sales  made  to  vessels  which  had  preceded  us. 

The  next  night  we  had  very  heavy  squalls  from  the  westward, 
accompanied  with  much  thunder  and  lightning,  and  were  compelled 
by  their  violence  to  let  go  a second  anchor.  The  succeeding  day  the 
weather  became  pleasant,  but,  the  wind  being  against  us,  we  turned 
down  with  the  ebb  as  far  as  Culpee,  where  we  anchored  for  the  night 
and  the  next  morning  went  ashore  and  purchased  a stock  of  ducks 
fowls,  fruit,  &c.,  sufficient  for  the  passage.  The  next  ebb  carried 
us  to  Cudgeree,  where,  in  consequence  of  a gale  from  the  south,  we 
lay  at  anchor  the  two  succeeding  days  ; nor,  with  so  much  wind 
could  we  have  proceeded  if  we  had  desired,  as,  in  the  hurry  for  de- 
spatch, the  sail-maker  had  neglected  to  put  in  any  greemmits  for  reef- 
ing; and  all  on  board  who  could  handle  a needle  were  set  about  thi.- 
business. 

On  the  25th  the  weather  became  settled,  and  when  we  arrived 
opposite  Ingerby,  the  black  pilot,  who  had  conducted  the  vessel  from 
Serampore,  left  us,  having  previously  given  us  directions  how  to 
steer.  The  tide  was  now  strong  and  running  with  the  velocity  which 

11* 


126 


FIRST  VOYAGE. 


is  peculiar  to  this  river,  when  we  suddenly  and  unexpectedly  found 
ourselves  in  only  seven  feet  water,  having,  as  we  supposed,  mistaken 
the  direction  of  the  pilot  and  taken  the  wrong  side  of  the  buoy  on 
the  little  Barabulla.  We  had  scarcely  time  to  reflect  on  the  conse- 
quences of  touching,  before  we  had  passed  over  the  shoal  and  were 
again  in  deep  water.  When  the  tide  had  ceased  to  be  favorable  we 
anchored,  and  again  pursued  our  course  when  it  set  out,  and,  in  the 
evening  of  the  28th,  we  anchored  in  Balasore  Roads,  and  lay  becalmed 
during  the  night. 

Early  the  following  morning  we  hauled  up  our  anchor,  and,  with  a 
brisk  breeze  from  south-southwest,  stood  out  on  a wind  to  the  south- 
east. While  passing  out  of  the  Bay  of  Bengal,  we  had  very  variable 
winds,  and  generally  good  weather;  nor,  indeed,  had  we  any  occur- 
rence during  the  passage  worthy  of  remark.  The  boat,  which  was 
named  the  Maria,  was  quite  as  uncomfortable  as  I had  anticipated, 
and  this,  not  so  much  from  its  contracted  size,  as  from  the  scorching 
effects  of  the  sun,  which  was  most  of  the  passage  nearly  vertical, 
and  from  the  rain  ; for  our  only  retreat  was  of  a kind  that  would  not 
be  considered  by  every  one  the  least  of  the  two  evils.  In  this  con- 
fined state  passed  forty-five  days  before  we  arrived  at  the  Isle  of 
France,  on  the  14th  of  May. 


CHAPTER  X. 


Good  Fortune  — Visit  the  Governor  — His  Civility  — William  Shaler — Dinner  at  the 
Governor’s  — Sell  the  Vessel  and  Cargo  — Isle  of  Bourbon  — St.  Dennis  — St.  Paul’s 
— Riviere  D’Aborde  — Mr.  Nairac  — Dinner  Party — Pass  near  the  Volcano  — 
St.  Benoit  — Return  to  St.  Dennis  — Return  to  Isle  of  France — Death  of  the  Gov- 
ernor— Honors  to  his  Memory  — Entry  of  a Hamburg  Ship — Cut  out  by  English 
Boats  — Purchase  Coffee  — Confiance  and  Kent  — Mode  of  Capture  — Bravery  and 
Generosity  of  Surcouffe  — Brig  Traveller — A Duel — Kent  sold  — Freight  her  — 
Naturaliste  and  Geographe. 


©!  was  fortunate  for  us  that  we  escaped  those  gales 
which  are  very  common  to  windward  of  the  Isle  of 
France  during  the  hurricane  months,  and  which 
could  scarcely  have  failed  to  put  us  and  our  specu- 
lations at  rest  together.  The  attempting  such  a 
passage  in  such  a vessel  was  certainly  imprudent, 
ft  was  not  so  much  owing  to  ignorance  of  the  risk,  as 
to  that  impatience,  which  would  not  permit  ordinary 
difficulties  to  interfere  with,  or  obstruct  the  pursuit  of, 
a favorite  object. 

If  the  vessel,  in  which  I arrived  at  the  Cape  of  Good 
Hope,  created  surprise  in  the  inhabitants,  this,  of  little 


Ml 

m\  more  than  half  the  size,  could  not  fail  to  excite  the  curiosity 
&f)  and  wonder  of  the  people  of  the  Isle  of  France.  Conse- 
quently,  a great  crowd  assembled  on  the  quay  to  see  a vessel 
approaching  it,  which,  unlike  all  others  that  entered  the  port,  did  not 
anchor,  but  was  conducted  by  the  pilot  directly  to  the  landing  for 
boats.  Exclamations  of  astonishment  were  interchanged  by  those 
collected  near  the  boat,  when  it  was  understood  by  them  where  we 
were  from.  Some  remarked  on  the  hazard  of  such  an  undertaking  ; 
others  on  the  apparent  absence  of  all  comfort  ; and  others  were 
earnest  to  know  if  we  had  experienced  any  bad  weather,  and 


128 


FIRST  VOYAGE. 


expressing  a belief,  that  we  could  not  have  survived  one  of  those 
gales  which  are  common  in  this  vicinity  at  this  season  of  the  year. 

While  accompanying  the  linguist  to  the  Governor’s  and  the  Intend* 
unt’s,  the  multitude  walked  up  near  us ; and,  as  no  one  suspected  that 
I understood  the  French  language,  I heard  such  remarks  as,  “ This 
gentleman  has  nothing  like  a Dane  in  his  appearance.”  “ No,”  was 
the  reply,  “ he  looks  like  a Cheechee  and  in  truth  I had  become 
so  burnt  by  long  and  great  exposure,  that  it  was  not  surprising  I 
should  be  taken  fora  native  of  India.  Then  the  object  of  my  voyage 
was  discussed.  One  remarked,  that  he  thought  l must  have  other 
views  than  those  which  appeared  in  the  disposal  of  so  trifling  a cargo. 
Perhaps  1 was  in  pursuit  of  prize  ships.  “ Then  mine  would  suit  his 
purpose,”  was  the  reply.  Such  were  some  of  the  observations  and 
Conjectures  which  I heard  while  on  my  way  to  the  Governor’s,  and 
which  were  proofs  of  the  same  inquisitiveness,  activity,  and  energy 
which  I had  observed  in  this  people  in  a residence  of  six  months 
among  them,  more  than  six  years  before. 

On  being  introduced  to  the  Governor,  (General  Malariie,)  he 
received  me  with  that  urbanity  which  is  a peculiar  characteristic  of 
the  French,  and  which,  banishing  restraint,  places  a stranger  at  once 
on  a footing  of  familiarity.  When  I had  replied  to  his  various  ques- 
tions relative  to  the  news  from  India,  and  to  the  vessels  I had  seen  on 
my  passage,  he  remarked  on  the  peculiarity  of  my  enterprise;  how 
hazardous  he  considered  it ; how  out  of  proportion  to  the  risk  he 
considered  any  profit  that  could  be  made  on  such  a cargo ; though, 
he  remarked,  it  was  much  wanted.  He  hoped  I should  sell  it  well, 
and  facetiously  observed,  that  when  report  was  made  to  him  of  the 
size  of  the  vessel,  he  had  sent  orders  to  the  Captain  of' the  port  to  see 
that  room  sufficient  was  made  to  admit  her  entrance.  On  taking 
leave  he  invited  me  to  dine  with  him  the  next  day. 

Having  made  a like  visit  of  ceremony,  but  of  less  duration,  to  the 
Intendant,  I was  afterwards  free  to  pursue  my  own  course,  and,  in  the 
first  place,  went  to  the  residence  of  the  consul  of  the  United  States, 
by  whom  I was  assured  there  would  have  been  no  hazard  in  coming 
in  the  character  of  a citizen  of  the  United  States,  nor  any  in  giving 
evidence  that  I was  not  a Dane  by  taking  a room  at  his  house.  To 
this  proposal  I very  readily  acceded,  and  became  an  inmate  with 


VISIT  THE  GOVERNOR. 


129 


the  only  three  Americans  in  the  island,  one  of  whom  was  William 
Shaler,  author  of  “ Sketches  of  Algiers,”  and  for  many  years  consul- 
general  of  the  United  States  to.  the  Barbary  powers. 

Notwithstanding  that  the  Danish  and  the  Hamburgh  were  the  only 
neutral  flags  in  port,  (and  of  these  there  were  but  two  of  the  first, 
and  one  of  the  latter,)  yet  the  equipment  of  privateers,  the  sale  and 
re-sale  of  prizes  and  their  cargoes,  and  the  occasional  arrival  of  a 
slave-ship  from  Madagascar,  kept  up  the  bustle  and  appearance  of 
business.  Though  the  small  value  of  the  products  of  the  island 
indicated  that  this  was  not  of  the  most  beneficial  and  salutary  descrip- 
tion. From  the  earnestness  of  the  brokers  to  purchase  my  cargo  1 
had  no  doubt  of  making  a handsome  profit  on  it ; but  before  accepting 
any  proposal  I waited  till  the  following  morning,  that  a fair  opportunity 
might  be  given  to  each  of  the  competitors,  when  I closed  with  one  of 
them  at  a rate  which  gave  me  about  a dollar  for  the  rupee  on  the 
whole  amount  of  the  investment. 

In  conformity  with  my  previous  engagement  I went,  at  two  o’clock, 
to  dine  with  the  Governor,  who  was  not  less  affable  than  at  my  first 
introduction.  His  intercourse  with  the  young  officers  composing  his 
staff,  and  who  constituted  the  majority  of  the  party,  resembled  rather 
that  of  a father  with  his  children,  than  of  a military  chief  with  his 
subalterns.  The  dinner  was  served  up  in  plain  but  handsome  style, 
and  consisted  of  a good  variety  of  well-cooked  dishes.  There  pre- 
vailed at  table  an  ease  and  an  entire  freedom  from  restraint,  which 
formed  a, striking  contrast  to  the  formality  and  ceremony  I had 
recently  had  an  opportunity  of  observing  at  English  tables.  The 
repast  was  of  about  two  hours’  duration,  and  finished  with  coffee  and 
liqueurs,  when  each  one  unceremoniously  withdrew. 

The  unlading  and  delivering  my  cargo  was  soon  accomplished  , 
and  a day  or  two  after  I had  an  application  for  my  vessel  from  a 
person  whose  plantation  was  contiguous  to  some  little  river,  for  navi- 
gating which  my  boat  was  peculiarly  adapted  by  her  easy  draft  of 
water.  On  this  part  of  my  speculation  I had  not  anticipated  making 
any  profit ; the  main  object  being  that  of  a passage,  which  could  be 
obtained  in  no  other  way.  But  1 found  the  gentleman  willing  to  give 
three  thousand  five  hundred  dollars  for  my  boat ; and  I closed  with 
him  at  that  price.  Thus  there  appeared  evidently  to  be  a tide  in  my 


130 


FIRST  VOYAGE. 


affairs,  which  was  leading  on  to  fortune  ; and  I was  deriving  an 
advantage  where  1 had  not  anticipated  it. 

But  a few  days’  residence  satisfied  me  that  I had  arrived  too  late 
to  profit  by  the  purchase  of  any  of  those  vessels  or  cargoes  which 
had  previously  been  sent  in.  Some  of  them  were  already  on  their 
way  to  India -under  the  Danish  flag;  and  others  had  been  purchased 
on  speculation,  for  re-sale,  by  merchants  of  the  place.  From  these 
I had  several  ships  proposed  to  me,  but  at  too  high  a rate  to  profit  by 
taking  them  to  India.  There  remained  to  me,  therefore,  no  other 
alternative  than  to  be  ready  with  my  funds,  and  wait  the  arrival  of 
some  of  those  prizes,  which,  there  was  little  doubt,  would  be  sent  in 
by  some  one  of  the  numerous  and  well-appointed  cruisers  which  had 
been  despatched  from  this  port. 

A month  having  elapsed,  and  no  opportunity  presenting  for  invest- 
ing my  funds,  I determined  to  make  a short  excursion  to  the  Isle  of 
Bourbon,  (or  Reunion,  as  it  was  then  called,)  and,  on  the  14th  of 
June,  took  passage  in  the  brig  Creole,  Captain  Touissante,  for  St. 
Dennis.  During  the  twenty-four  hours  immediately  succeeding  our 
departure,  we  had  a continued  gale  of  wind,  which  compelled  us  to 
lie  to  under  a reefed  foresail,  the  sea  running  very  high,  and  pre- 
vented our  anchoring  in  the  road  of  St.  Dennis  before  noon  of  he 
16th.  A letter  of  introduction  to  the  most  considerable  merchant  of 
the  place  procured  me  access  to  one  of  the  most  accomplished  and 
pleasing  families  of  the  island,  from  whom,  during  my  residence 
there,  1 experienced  that  polite  attention  and  true  hospitality  which 
are  always  the  more  grateful  when,  as  in  this  instance,  they  are 
known  to  be  purely  disinterested. 

After  a few  days’  residence  in  this  family,  I crossed  the  mountain 
to  the  south,  by  a zig-zag  path,  accessible  to  horses,  and  soon  arrived 
at  the  coffee  plantation  of  Mr.  Dumeste,  to  whom  I had  a letter,  and 
whose  hospitality  had  been  made  known  to  me  by  several  of  my 
countrymen,  who  had  experienced  it.  This  plantation  is  beautifully 
situated  at  a great  elevation,  commanding  a view  of  the  ocean  with 
its  boundless  horizon  in  the  west;  and  the  greater  part  of  the  grounds 
which  the  slaves  are  employed  in  cultivating,  may  be  seen  from  the 
house.  The  coffee  tree,  this  year,  promised  an  abundant  crop,  and 
the  harvest  time  would  arrive  in  about  six  weeks. 


st.  Paul’s. 


131 


Leaving  this  charming  residence  with  the  most  favorable  impressions 
of  the  kind  feelings  and  amiable  character  of  the  owner,  I proceeded 
to  St.  Paul’s,  which,  in  point  of  mercantile  importance,  is  the  second 
place  in  the  island,  the  roadstead  being  generally  smoother  and 
preferable  to  that  of  St.  Dennis.  The  town  is  situated  on  part  of  a 
spacious,  flat,  and  sandy  tract,  on  the  border  of  a large  bay ; and 
though  it  spreads  over  a considerable  extent,  as  the  houses  are  not 
contiguous,  yet  the  population  is  very  inconsiderable.  Its  value 
principally  consists  in  being  a place  of  embarkation  for  the  produce 
of  the  neighboring  plantations.  The  surf  on  the  beach,  particularly 
on  the  full  and  change  of  the  moon,  is  often  so  great  as  to  render 
landing  dangerous  ; and  whenever  this  is  the  case  a signal  is  made 
from  a flag-staff,  erected  for  the  purpose,  to  notify  the  vessels  which 
may  be  lying  in  the  road. 

From  this  port  I took  a water  conveyance  to  the  Riviere  d’Aborde, 
and  proceeded,  on  landing,  to  the  plantation  of  Mr.  Nairac,  an  old 
Irish  resident,  to  whom  I had  a letter,  and  who  received  me  with  those 
hearty  demonstrations  of  welcome  which  are  peculiar  to  his  country- 
men. His  long  residence  among  the  French  had  not  so  entirely 
obliterated  the  knowledge  of  his  native  language,  as  to  prevent  his 
conversing  in  it  familiarly  ; though  from  long  disuse  of  it  there  was 
often  evidence  of  embarrassment  in  finding  terms  to  express  himself. 
Every  thing  about  this  plantation  gave  indication  of  the  wealth  of  the 
proprietor.  Such  was  its  symmetry,  its  extreme  neatness,  and  the 
beauty  of  its  walks,  that  it  had  more  the  appearance  of  a garden 
designed  for  pleasure,  than  of  a plantation  intended  for  profit.  The 
prospect.,  however,  was  limited  in  every  direction,  either  by  the 
mountains  or  the  tall  trees  bordering  on  the  premises  ; so  that  the 
resident  was  as  much  excluded  from  the  view  of  the  world,  as  from 
its  noise  and  turbulence. 

As  this  situation  is  distant  from  either  of  the  ports  where  vessels 
usually  anchor,  the  visit  of  a stranger  is  a rare  event,  and  therefore 
proportionally  appreciated.  This  was  evinced  by  the  direction  given 
to  have  a fat  ox  killed,  and  by  sending  despatches,  in  various  direc- 
tions, with  invitations  to  come  on  the  morrow  and  partake  of  it. 
Accordingly,  the  next  day  about  a dozen  gentlemen  assembled,  who, 
for  those  qualifications  which  give  life  and  spirit  to  a convivial  party 


FIRST  VOYAGE. 


•laa 

maintained  the  reputation  of  his  countrymen,  and  seemed  to  afford 
great  pleasure  to  the  host.  Mr.  Nairac  had  promised  to  give  me, 
tvvhat  I had  never  seen  in  a tropical  climate,  a piece  of  roast  beef, 
equal  in  delicacy  and  flavor  to  any  I had  ever  eaten  in  Europe  or 
America  ; and  this  promise  was  fully  redeemed,  for  it  was  of  a 
quality  which  could  not  be  surpassed,  and  which,  till  now,  I had 
always  supposed  to  be  limited  to  the  temperate  regions.  The  natural 
hiking-  and  vivacity  of  the  party  needed  no  artificial  stimulus.  Con- 
sequently, although  there  was  a great  abundance  and  variety  of  the 
best  wines,  they  were  taken  with  such  moderation  as  to  evince  that 
no  one  of  the  party  possessed  the  ridiculous  pride  of  being  considered 
able  to  swallow  more  than  his  neighbor.  Early  on  the  following 
morning  we  mounted  our  steeds,  and,  bidding  farewell  to  our  excel- 
lent host,  began  our  ascent  toward  the  summit  of  the  Island.  When 
we,  had  reached  its  highest  elevation,  the  cold  was  so  great  that  I 
found  it  advisable  to  dismount  and  walk,  to  warm  my  feet  ; and. in 
the  little  hollows  where  the  rain  had  lodged,  it  had  frozen  to  the 
thickness  of  the  eighth  of  an  inch.  We  went  over  the  route  which  is 
called  “ passing  by  the  plain,”  and  which  also  passes  near  to  the 
crater  of  the  volcano.  Arriving  at  St.  Benoit  in  the  evening,  we 
found  a comfortable  lodging  at  a private  house  ; and,  pursuing  our 
course  early  in  the  morning,  we  travelled  quickly  over  a good  road, 
and  late  in  the  afternoon  arrived  in  safety  at  my  friend’s  house  in  St. 
Dennis. 

• In  this  excursion  I ascertained  that  none  of  the  products  of  the 
island  could  be  purchased  at  the  diminished  rate  which  1 had  expected 
from  the  stagnant  state  of  commerce.  The  reason  was  obvious  ; the 
general  ability  of  every  one  to  keep  his  produce  when  it  is  below  its 
ordinary  value  ; an  ability  produced  by  frugal  habits,  by  limited  wants, 
and  an  entire  absence  of  those  luxuries  of  furniture  and  equipage, 
which  custom  has  rendered  indispensable  to  the  European  and  Amer- 
ican, and  for  which  they,  in  some  instances,  devote  themselves  to  a 
life  of  toil  and  anxiety. 

A speedy  return  to  the  Isle  of  France  being  now  desirable,  1 
embarked,  on  the  1st  of  July,  in  a Chassemaree ; but,  owing  to 
unfavorable  winds  and  bad  management,  we  had  the  very  long  pass- 
ige  of  ten  days.  It  appeared,  that,  during  my  absence,  no  othej 


DEATH  OF  THE  GOVEKNOR. 


133 


prize  had  been  sent  in  than  the  Alnomack  of  Baltimore,  bound  to 
Batavia  with  an  assorted  cargo.  I had  therefore  lost  no  opportunity 
of  prosecuting  my  plan  by  my  absence. 

A few  days  only  had  elapsed,  however,  after  my  return,  when  the 
Company's  extra  ship  Armenia  arrived,  taken  on  her  passage  from 
London  to  Calcutta  with  a valuable  cargo,  by  the  Clarisse.  This: 
ship  was  of  six  hundred  tons  burden,  Bengal  built,  and  was  on  her  first 
voyage.  As  I was  confident  that  there  was  no  other  person  there  at 
the  lime,  who  was  prepared  with  the  requisite  documents  and  officers 
to  take  a ship  to  India,  and  was  persuaded  that  no  one  would  be  wil- 
ling to  pay  high  with  a view  of  a re-sale,  I felt  so  certain  of  being  the 
purchaser  that  I took  some  preliminary  steps  to  avoid  any  additional 
loss  of  time  in  taking  possession.  I expected  to  procure  her  at  from 
eighteen  to  twenty  thousand  dollars;  but  at  the  sale,  contrary  to  the 
expectations  of  every  one,  and  to  the  astonishment  of  those  interested, 
she  was  run  up  to  the  enormous  sum  of  twenty-seven  thousand  five 
hundred  dollars.  I was  so  little  disposed  to  submit  to  the  disappoint- 
ment, that  I very  incautiously  bid  twenty -seven  thousand  four  hundred 
and  fifty  dollars,  and  was  rejoiced  when  relieved  by  the  superior  bid, 
which  took  her  from  me.  This  was  a great  disappointment  to  me; 
but,  upon  sober  reflection,  my  escape  from  paying  too  much  to  have 
a chance  of  profit  reconciled  me  to  it. 

But  a few  days  had  elapsed,  however,  after  the  sale,  when  I was 
surprised  by  the  inquiry  of  a broker,  if  I would  take  the  ship  at  what 
I had  bidden.  On  declining,  he  thought  she  might  be  obtained  for 
something  less.  This  awakened  suspicions,  which  were  the  next  day 
confirmed  by  the  information  that  the  purchaser  of  the  ship  had  a 
long  credit  on  whatever  he  bought  at  the  sale;  and,  supposing! 
wanted  the  ship,  and  would  be  willing  to  pay  him  as  high  as  1 had 
offered  at  the  sale,  he  contemplated  the  use  of  my  money  (which  was 
then  at  very'  high  interest)  for  the  mere  sacrifice  of  his  additional  bid'. 
In  a few  weeks  after- the  ship  was  offered  to  me  for  several  thousand 
dollars  less  than  she  brought  at  the  sale  ; but,  having  waited  so  long^ 
I determined  to  have  a cheap  ship  or  none. 

On  the  28th  of  this  month  a general  gloorn  was  thrown  over  the 
town  by  the  sudden  death  of  their  excellent  Governor,  General 

Malartie,  after  an  illness  of  forty-eight  hours.  In  a room  in  the  gov- 

12 


134 


FIRST  VOYAGE. 


ernment-house,  hung  with  black,  and  with  rows  of  lighted  tapers  on 
each  side  of  the  coffin,  the  body  lay  in  state  till  the  30th,  and  then 
was  interred  with  military  honors,  and  every  imaginable  demonstra- 
tion of  respect.  He  had  expressed  a wish  that  his  funeral  expenses 
might  not  exceed  thirty  dollars  ; but  so  high  a respect  was  entertained 
for  his  character  and  services,  that  there  seemed  to  be  a determination 
that  no  expense  should  be  spared  to  evince  it.  The  present  place  of 
interment,  therefore,  was  only  to  serve  till  a magnificent  tomb  could 
be  built  on  the  Champ  de  Mars  to  receive  his  remains.  This  being 
.prepared  by  the  latter  part  of  the  ensuing  month,  the  body  was  taken 
from  the  church  and  carried  thither  in  procession  with  minute  guns 
firing;  and,  having  arrived  at  the  sepulchre, an  eulogy  was  pronounced 
to  a numerous  and  attentive  audience.  A few  days  previous,  the 
English  blockading  squadron  had  arrived,  under  command  of  Com- 
modore Hotham.  These,  on  the  day  of  the  funeral  obsequies,  as  a 
mark  of  respect  for  the  deceased  general,  came  down  from  wind- 
ward, and  lay  by,  off  the  entrance  of  the  harbor,  with  their  colors 
hoisted  half  mast,  and  firing  minute  guns.  Such  a tribute  of  respect 
from  an  enemy  is  so  magnanimous,  that  it  cannot  fail  to  be  consid- 
ered honorable  to  both  parties  ; and  while  such  acts  meet  the 
applause  of  the  civilized  world,  they  will  also  have  their  influence  in 
diminishing  the  asperities  and  miseries  of  war. 

A few  days  after  giving  this  evidence  of  respect  and  courtesy,  the 
squadron  gave  us  an  exhibition  of  character  of  a different  kind.  A 
Hamburgh  ship  had,  during  the  night,  got  between  the  squadron  and 
the  land,  and  at  daylight  was  discovered  by  them  several  miles  to 
leeward,  and  near  Round  Island.  All  sail  was  made  by  the  squadron 
in  chase ; and  although  they  were  fast  approaching  him,  the  Ham- 
burgher  persevered  in  pushing  for  the  port,  with  a boldness  and  deter- 
mination which  greatly  excited  the  sympathy  of  the  multitudes,  who 
were  watching,  with  intense  interest,  the  result.  Before  he  had  got 
quite  up  with  the  fort  at  the  entrance  of  the  port,  the  Lancaster,  of 
sixty-four  guns,  passed  so  near  to  him  (outside)  that  the  balls  from 
her  broadside  passed  over  and  came  ashore.  Then  the  Adamant,  of 
fifty  guns,  as  near,  fired  her  broadside  with  as  little  effect;  and  there 
being  no  time  for  repeating  them,  the  ship  got  in  safe,  while  the  air 
resounded  with ' he  shouts  and  gratulations  of  the  assembled  multi- 


BLOCKADING  SQUADRON, 


135 


aide.  It  is  difficult  tc  conceive  how  two  such  formidable  broadsides 
could  ie  directed,  from  so  short  a distance,  against  so  large  an  object 
witho:*  destroying  it;  and  that  they  produced  no  injury,  seemed 
almost  miraculous.  The  ship  was  immediately  warped  up,  and 

moorei  near  to  the  guard  ship.  But  the  English  Commodore  was 

detent,  ned  not  to  be  outdone  in  enterprise.  And  although  his  pros- 
pect ol  success  seemed  as  hopeless  as  the  escape  of  the  Hamburgher 
had  do  ie  in  the  morning,  he  sent  in  his  boats  about  ten  o’clock  the 
same  e rening,  of  which  we  had  notice  by  the  roar  of  cannon  from 
the  gut  rd  ship  and  from  the  forts,  and,  in  defiance  of  these,  actually 
carried  the  ship  off",  while  the  crew  supposed  themselves  to  be  in  such 
perfect  safety,  that  the  broker  was  on  board  taking  a list  of  the  arti- 
cles co  iposing  the  cargo.  It  was  said  there  were  a few  lives  lost  on 

this  occ  tsion. 

The  equadron  had  already  intercepted  a ship  from  France  when 
near  the  island,  and  had  also  taken  several  of  the  Bourbon  coasting 
vessels.  There  remained,  therefore,  but  a feeble  chance  for  any 
prize  to  succeed- in  entering  the  port.  Under  these  circumstances, 
now  late  in  the  month  of  September,  I decided  to  abandon  the  plan  of 
returning  to  India.  Money  was  in  unusual  demand,  and  coffee  to  be 
procured  with  it  at  an  uncommonly  low  rate.  Hence  it  was  obvious, 
that  to  invest  the  principal  part  of  my  capital  in  this  article  before 
the  opening  of  the  intercourse  with  America,  or  any  other  event 
should  enhance  the  value  of  it,  and  to  be  prepared  to  freight  it,  by 
the  first  good  opportunity,  for  Europe  or  the  United  States,  was  the 
most  judicious  course  to  pursue. 

Acting  on  this  determination,  I had  soon  secured  the  quantity  I 
desired,  and  on  very  advantageous  terms.  In  the  mean  time,  and 
early  in  the  month  of  October,  the  English  squadron  went  off  without 
being  relieved  by  another,  to  the  great  joy  of  the  merchants  in  par- 
ticular, and  of  the  inhabitants  generally,  of  the  Isle  of  France.  In 
their  short  cruise,  and  principally  from  the  capture  of  coasting 
vessels,  they  had  caused  the  ruin  of  some  families  and  the  distress  of 
many. 

The  blockade  had  been  raised  but  a day  or  two,  when  there  arrived 
a national  corvette,  and  also  a Danish  and  a Hamburgh  ship,  all  from 
Europe.  The  general  tenor  of  the  news  they  brought  was,  that  the 


136 


FIRST  VOYAGE. 


war  was  prosecuted  in  Europe,  by  all  parties,  with  its  accustomed 
vigor  ; and  that  there  was  an  immediate  expectation  of  an  adjust- 
ment of  difficulties  between  the  French  and  American  governments. 
This  last  was  a “ consummation  devoutly  to  be  wished  ” by  the 
Americans  here,  not  less  on  public  than  on  private  considerations. 
Nor  was  it  less  desired  by  the  cultivators  and  owners  of  plantations, 
whose  produce  would  be  enhanced  in  value  by  an  open  intercourse 
with  the  United  States,  more  than  by  all  the  neutrals  of  Europe  com- 
bined. Plence,  the  planters  never  failed  to  regret  the  arrival  of  an 
American  prize,  from  the  fear,  that  each  additional  one  would  have  a 
tendency  to  prolong  hostilities. 

In  the  course  of  the  month  of  November,  arrived  the  Confiance 
privateer,  conducting  her  prize,  the  East  India  Company’s  ship  Kent. 
The  action,  which  resulted  in  the  capture  of  this  ship,  will  rank 
amongst  the  most  chivalrous  and  gallant,  which  the  naval  annals 
of  any  country  record,  and  which  even  Surcouffe  would  hardly  have 
risked,  had  he  been  aware  that  his  antagonist  had  more  than  the 
usual  complement  of  men  for  a Company’s  ship.  But,  in  addition  to 
the  ordinary  number,  of  probably  one  hundred  and  fify,  were  the 
troops  and  passengers,  who  were  going  out  in  the  Queen,  which  was 
burnt  at  St.  Salvador,  and  who  amounted  to  about  three  hundred  • 
making  together  four  hundred  and  fifty  men.  Their  ship  had  a 
complete  battery  betwixt  decks',  of  twenty-two  or  twenty-four  twelve- 
pounders,  and  had  the  advantage  of  an  elevation  above  the  water 
double  that  of  the  privateer  ; so  that  it  might  be  supposed  that  one 
man  would  successfully  resist  at  least  four  assailants.  The  Confiance 
mounted  twenty  nine-pounders,  and  had,  on  sailing  from  the  Isle  of 
France,  one  hundred  and  eighty  men.  She  had  gr.  atly  the  advan- 
tage of  her.  opponent  in  sailing.  The  action  being  begun  by  the 
Kent,  but  few  broadsides  were  exchanged,  before  the  Confiance, 
luffing  up  under  the  quarter,  and  pouring  in  a broadside,  boarded  in 
the  smoke  with  nearly  the  whole  crew.  The  resistance  on  deck  was 
not  of  long  duration  ; and  when  it  ceased,  a scene  of  plunder  ensued 
which  is  considered  to  be  justified  by  the  practices  of  war,  when  a 
place  or  ship  is  taken  by  storm,  and  wdiich  is  promised  to  the  men 
previous  to  the  assault.  Nor  is  it  in  the  power  of  the  commander, 
however  he  may  be  disposed,  to  arrest  the  progress  of  those  iregu- 


A DUEL. 


137 


larities,  which  are  inseparable  from  such  a state  of  confusion.  Were 
it  possible,  there  was  no  person  in  the  world,  who  would  have  been 
more  ready  to  do  it  than  Captain  Surcouffe,  whom  I knew  to  be  not 
less  deservedly  distinguished  for  humanity  and  generosity,  than  for 
intrepidity  and  the  most  daring  courage.  The  value  of  this  prize  to 
the  captors  was  not  very  great,  as  she  was  laden  principally  with 
military  stores.  One  of  the  privateer’s-men  produced  considerable 
mirth  on  the  Exchange,  by  appearing  there  dressed  in  a suit  of  the 
English  general’s  uniform,  which  he  had  taken  the  liberty  to  appro- 
priate to  his  own  particular  use.  But  a few  weeks  had  elapsed  after 
the  arrival  of  this  prize,  when  the  American  brig  Traveller,  of  Boston, 
with  upwards  of  one  hundred  thousand  dollars  in  specie  on  board, 
was  sent  in  by  the  mdelle  privateer.  To  prevent  any  influence  which 
the  captain,  supercargo,  or  officers  might  have  in  arresting  condemna- 
tion, neither  of  them  had  been  permitted  to  proceed  in  the  brig. 
This  we  learned  from  the  sailor  who  came  in  her. 

Great  efforts  were  made,  not  less  by  the  Consul  of  the  United 
States,  than  by  several  respectable  individuals  of  the  place,  for  the 
release  of  this  property,  but  ineffectually.  The  fact  of  there  being 
such  an  amount  of  specie  on  board,  and  of  its  being  much  wanted, 
was  of  sufficient  weight  to  bear  down  all  opposition  to  its  condemna- 
tion. These  efforts,  however,  combined  with  the  information  recently 
received,  that  several  of  their  privateers  had  been  foiled,  and  much 
cut  up,  by  American  letters  of  marque,  which  they  had  met  in  the 
Bay  of  Bengal,  tended  greatly  to  promote  a hostile  feeling  towards 
the  Americans ; in  those  particularly,  who  were  interested  in  privateers. 

During  the  existence  of  these  feelings  a Boston  newspaper  was 
iroduced  on  ’Change,  in  which  was  inserted  a list  of  those  merchants 
jf  the  Isle  of  France  who  were  engaged  in  privateering;  and  some 
of  whom  were  styled  rogues,  noted  villains,  &,c.  Among  the  latter 
was  a very  irascible,  arrogant,  and  physically  powerful  man,  who 
was  an  armateur  and  also  a Captain  of  Dragoons.  No  sooner  was 
he  informed  of  the  ungracious  notice  taken  of  him  in  this  paper,  than, 
incapable  of  suppressing  his  wrath,  he  gave  vent  to  it  in  the  most 
gross  and  abusive  language,  directed  to  a young  Bostonian,  who  hap- 
pened to  be  the  only  American  on  ’Change.  The  consequence  was 
a challenge.  They  met  the  next  morning,  and  fought  at  only  five 
12* 


138 


FUST  VOYAGE. 


paces  distant ; when  the  Captain  of  Dragoons  received  his  adver 
sary’s  ball,  diagonally,  in  the  arm,  which  laid  him  up  for  six  weeks. 
The  Bostonian  escaped  uninjured.  VVe  experienced,  afterward,  in 
our  intercourse  with  the  inhabitants,  nothing  but  the  civility  and 
politeness  which  arc  proverbially  French. 

Some  time  in  the  month  of  December,  the  prize  ship  Kent  was 
sold  to  a Dane  for  thirty  thousand  nine  hundred  dollars.  Soon  after 
which  she  was  put  up  for  freight  for  Europe  ; being  called  the  Cron- 
berg,  and  having  transferred  to  her  the  papers  of  a ship  of  that  name, 
of  about  three  hundred  tons  burden.  But,  at  this  time,  few  persons 
were  desirous  of  freighting  to  Europe ; and  all  considered  the  risk 
too  great  by  this  vessel,  both  on  account  of  the  deficiency  of  the 
requisite  papers,  and  of  the  proposal  of  the  agent  to  take  French 
property.  More  than  a month  had  elapsed  after  this  ship  was  pre- 
pared to  receive  a cargo,  and  none  had  been  offered  ; while  the  daily 
expenses  were  rapidly  consuming  the  means  indispensable  for  putting 
her  to  sea.  Under  these  circumstances,  overtures  were  made  to  Mr. 
Shaler  and  myself  to  freight  the  ship  exclusively,  and  with  a particu- 
lar agreement  that  no  French  property,  or  passenger,  should  be 
taken  on  board.  The  terms  were  low  in  proportion  to  the  risk  ; the 
accommodations  for  ourselves  were  spacious  and  tempting ; the 
chance  of  the  intercourse  soon  opening  with  America  uncertain  ; and 
we  had  both  become  equally  tired  of  a state  of  inactivity,  and  of  our 
residence  at  the  Isle  of  France.  We  therefore  engaged  to 'freight  in 
this  ship,  and  stipulated  to  sail  in  sixty  days  from  the  date  of  the 
contract. 

During  the  remainder  of  this  and  the  ensuing  month  there  were 
several  arrivals  from  Europe,  which  caused  a rise  in  the  price 
of  the  produce  of  the  island  of  fifteen  to  twenty  per  cent.  A 
coasting  brig  from  Bourbon,  with  fourteen  hundred  bags  of  coffee, 
was  chased  oh  shore  by  an  English  frigate,  near  to  Little  River;  and 
the  vessel  and  most  of  the  cargo  were  lost.  New  animation  and 
vigor  were  given  to  the  society  of  the  place  by  the  young  men 
attached  to  the  two  national  ships,  Naturaliste  and  Geographe,  under 
the  command  of  Monsieur  Baudtn,  who  had  touched  here  on  the 
route  to  New  Holland  and  the  Pacific  ocean,  on  a voyage  of  discovery 
and  scientific  research.  The  ships,  on  their  arrival,  looked  rather  as 


ENGLISH  FRIGATE. 


139 


if  they  were  returning  from  circumnavigating  the  globe,  than  com- 
mencing an  enterprise  of  several  years’  duration ; and,  as  far  as  I 
could  judge  from  a cursory  observation,  there  was  nothing  connected 
with  the  expedition,  that,  premised  to  add  to  the  national  glory,  or  to 
repay  the  expense  of  tne  equipment. 


OH  A FT  Eli  A a 


Satisfaction  at  the  prospect  of  Departure — Observations  on  the  Isle  of  Fransa — In- 
fluence of  the  Jacobins  — A Hurricane  — Sail  for  Kurope — Speak  an  American 
Schooner — Coast  of  Norway  — War  between  the  English  and  Danes  — Arrive  at 
Christiansand  — heave  the  Ship,  and  proceed  to  Copenhagen  — Arrival  there  — A 
profitable  Voyage  — Sketch  of  Copenhagen  — Obelisk  — Fredericksburg  Palace  — 
Rosenberg  Palace  — Arrival  of  the  Ship  from  Norway. 


■p?lE  period  of  my  departure  now  drew  near ; :ind_ 
I looked  forward  to  it  with  great  impatience.  Hav- 
ing reached  the  middle  of  March,  ten  months  were 
completed  since  my  arrival ; a term  rendered  addi- 
tionally tedious  from  the  want  of  occupation. 
During  this  time  no  opportunity  had  presented  of 
putting  into  execution  the  plan  1 had  contemplated 
on  leaving  Calcutta  ; and,  controlled  by  circum- 
stances, I was  now  again  about  venturing  every  thing, 
without  the  possibility  of  covering  any  part  of  the  risk 
by  insurance.  Should  we  arrive  safe  in  Europe,  my 
fortune  would  be  much  greater  than  I could  reasonably 
; hoped  to  possess  at  the  outset.  If  we  should  fail  to 
do  so,  or  should  be  intercepted  by  an  English  cruiser  and 
condemned,  still  the  property,  which  had  been  sent  home 
' ' from  China,  would  amount  to  more  than  double  of  the  orig- 
inal outfit  from  France.  Thus,  though  the  amount  at  hazard  was 
greater,  its  loss  would  be  attended  with  none  of  the  distressing  con- 
sequences, which  would  have  resulted  from  the  loss  of  the  property 
in  an  earlier  stage  of  the  enterprise.  These  considerations  g-eatly 
diminished  the  anxiety  at  having  a large  portion  of  my  fortune  at 
hazard,  and  reconciled  me  to  taking  the  risk.  Moreover,  our  ship 
was  so  large,  and  made  so  warlike  an  appearance,  that  there  was  but 
little  chance  that  any  cruiser  less  than  a frigate  would  approach 
within  reach  of  our  guns. 


ISLE  OF  FUANCE. 


141 


It  was  agreed  that  we  should  avoid,  if  possible,  speaking  any  ves- 
sel, and  that  we  should  pass  a long  way  to  the  south  of  the  Cape  of 
Good  Hope.  We  determined  also  to  avoid  seeing  St.  Helena  or 
Ascension,  or  indeed  any  land  from  the  time  of  losing  sight  of  the 
Isle  of  Bourbon,  till  we  should  see  the  land  about  Fair  Isle  passage  ; 
and  before  coming  up  with  this,  to  make  a long  sweep  to  the  west- 
ward, and  approach  this  passage  on  an  easterly  course.  With  such 
precautions  we  considered  the  prospect  to  be  tolerably  fair,  especially 
if  the  ship  sailed  as-  well  as  reported,  of  arriving  in  safety  at  our 
destined  port. 

Before  noticing  this  passage,  it  is  proper  to  say  something  of  the 
Isle  of  France  and  its  government  and  people.  The  very  rugged, 
mountainous,  and  irregular  appearance  presented  to  the  voyager  on  a 
first  view  of  the  Isle  of  France,  would  naturally  cause  him  to  believe 
that  it  could  not  be  well  adapted  to  agriculture.  By  a nearer  view, 
however,  he  will  be  undeceived.  The  luxuriant  valleys,  which  meet 
his  view  as  he  passes  along  to  leeward  between  Round  Island  and 
the  port,  and  the  aromatic  breezes,  doubly  agreeable  to  one  who  has 
been  long  at  sea,  will  convince  him  that  there  is  no  deficiency  of 
land  which  is  prized  by  the  agriculturist.  And  this  opinion  will  be 
confirmed  by  visiting  the  productive  cotton,  coffee,  and  indigo  planta- 
tions, and  noticing,  moreover,  the  prosperous  cultivation  of  the  clove, 
of'  wheat,  and  of  Indian  corn. 

The  secure  harbor  of  Port  Northwest  gives  to  the  Island  great 
commercial  advantages  over  the  more  fertile,  but,  in  this  respect,  less 
favored  Isle  of  Bourbon  ; for  the  produce  of  the  latter  is  principally 
transported  to  the  Isle  of  France  for  embarkation  for  Europe,  this 
being  thought  a smaller  inconvenience  than  to  load  the  ships  in  its 
open  and  dangerous  roadsteads.  The  town  formerly  called  Port 
Louis,  and  more  recently  Port  Northwest,  is  situated  on  the  eastern 
margin  of  the  harbor ; whence  it  extends  back  nearly  a mile 
to  the  Champ  de  Mars,  a spacious  field,  destined  for  the  exercise 
and  the  review  of  troops.  The  view  from  the  town  is  limited 
on  the  north  and  south  by  hills,  on  which  are  made  the  signals 
to  denote  the  approach  of  vessels ; on  the  east,  by  those  very 
irregular  mountains  called  Pieter-Both.  the  Ponce,  and  Piton  du 
milieu  de  file,  which  have  an  elevation  from  the  sea  of  three  to  four 


142 


FIRST  VOYAGE. 


hundred  toises ; and  on  the  west  by  the  ocean,  and  an  uninterrupted 
horizon.  The  houses  are,  with  very  few  exceptions,  built  of  wood, 
in  a neat,  pretty  style,  and  generally  of  one  story.  The  public 
buildings  are  commodious  and  useful  ; but  are  not  of  a description  to 
attract  the  observation  of  a stranger ; excepting,  perhaps,  the  govern- 
ment-house, which  is  spacious  and  airy,  and  is  so  situated  as  to  com- 
mand a fine  view  of  the  harbor  and  shipping.  The  streets  are 
regular,  of  good  breadth,  generally  clean,  and  many  of  them  are 
ornamented  with  trees.  The  bazaar,  or  market  for  meat  and  vege- 
tables, is  on  a large  square,  contiguous  to  the  government-house.  It 
affords  but  a scanty  choice  of  eatables,  and  those  not  the  best  of  their 
kinds;  and  also  indicates  great  disregard  of  that  cleanliness,  which  is 
particularly  desirable  and  proper  in  a market-place.  The  number  of 
inhabitants  amounts  to  about  thirteen  thousand  ; two  thirds  of  whom 
are  slaves. 

There  was  at  this  time  a person  at  the  Isle  of  France,  whose  name 
I have  forgotten,  who  believed  himself  to  be  possessed  of  a power  to 
discover  objects  at  sea,  several  hundred  miles  farther  off  than  any 
other  person  could  see.  He  pretended  to  see  vessels  so  distant  to 
windward,  that  they  would  only  arrive,  according  to  his  calculation, 
in  three  or  four  days ; and  as  they  often  did  arrive  conformably, 
which,  from  the  frequency  of  his  predictions,  was  not  surprising,  he 
made  many  converts.  If  they  failed  to  come,  it  did  not  prove  that  he 
had  not  seen  them  ; but  that  they  had  passed  by  on  their  way  to  India. 
The  man  evinced  that  he  was  equally  deluded  with  others,  by  after- 
wards putting  this  faculty  to  a fair  test,  through  the  means  of  the 
Imperial  government.  They  sent  him  out  in  a frigate,  and  the  next 
day  sent  another,  with  an  understanding  that  they  were  to  come 
within  fifty  or  sixty  miles,  and  then  approach  till  they  discovered  each 
other.  In  the  mean  time,  the  man  of  long  sight  was  on  the  look  out ; 
but  was  unable  to  discover  the  other  frigate  at  a greater  distance  than 
the  generality  of  the  crbw  ; and  consequently  was  obliged  to  take  his 
station,  in  this  respect,  with  other  mortals. 

The  Governor,  who  had  lately  deceased,  and  for  whose  memory 
the  inhabitants  appeared  to  entertain  the  most  profound  respect, 
seemed  to  have  been  peculiarly  fitted  by  temper,  disposition,  and 
judgment,  for  the  very  troublesome  and  difficult  times  in  which  it  was 


JACOBINS. 


143 


his  destiny  to  act.  A more  despotic  commander,  one  accustomed  to 
the  promptitude  of  military  obedience,  and  strenuous  to  exact  it, 
would  inevitably  have  perished  in  the  early  period  of  those  turbulent 
times,  when  liberty  was  understood  to  be  the  uncontrolled  indulgence 
of  every  passion  ; and  each  day  afforded  some  practical  illustration 
of  this  belief.  In  these  times  of  anarchy,  General  Malartie  wisely 
yielded  to  the  storm  which  he  saw  it  would  be  destruction  to  resist ; 
and,  by  an  apparent  acquiescence  in  measures  which  he  disap- 
proved, softened  or  ameliorated,  as  much  as  possible,  those  acts  of 
the  dominant  party  which  he  could  not  control,  and  which  he  saw 
would  be  injurious  to  the  prosperity  of  the  island.  This  domi- 
nant party  was  the  Jacobins.  Professing  to  be  exclusively  the 
true  friends  of  liberty,  they  did  not  perceive  the  tyranny  of  perse- 
cuting and  denouncing  as  traitors  ali  those  citizens  who  dared  to 
express  opinions  opposed  to  their  own. 

In  close  alliance,  and  amalgamated  with  these,  were  the  armateurs 
and  privateers-men ; a numerous  class,  composed  of  dashing  young 
adventurers,  whose  object  was  exclusively  the  acquirement  of  fortune, 
unrestrained  by  any  law,  moral  or  divine.  Yet,  these  jeunes  gens , 
as  they  were  called,  were  guilty  of  no  acts  of  cruelty  that  I saw  or 
heard  of ; but,  on  the  contrary,  behaved,  in  many  instances,  towards 
those  whom  fortune  had  thrown  into  their  power,  with  a generosity 
which  was  highly  honorable  to  them.  As  an  evidence  of  the  influ- 
ence which  these  jeunes  gens  possessed  over  the  mind  of  the  good  old 
superannuated  governor,  they,  for  the  mere  purpose  of  securing  as 
good  prize  a rich  American  vessel,  which  had  been  sent  in  by  one  of 
their  privateers,  induced  him  to  commit  the  ridiculous  act  of  formally 
declaring  war  against  the  United  States.  As  this  declaration  did  not 
appear  in  any  of  the  periodicals  of  the  time,  I infer  that  it  was  not 
known  beyond  the  limits  of  the  island. 

This  opinion  is,  moreover,  strengthened  by  its  ceasing  to  be  acted 
upon  as  soon  as  the  object  for  which  it  was  made  was  secured  in  due 
form.  For,  while  this  act  was  in  full  force,  an  American  ship  arrived 
from  France,  came  in  with  the  flag  of  the  United  States  displayed, 
and  was  admitted  to  entry  without  a question  of  the  propriety  ; the 
cargo  was  disposed  of,  and,  when  the  vessel  was  ready,  a clearance 
was  given  for  Bengal,  with  as  little  delay  and  molestation  as  if  the 


144 


FIRST  VOYAGE. 


public  authorities  were  unacquainted  with  the  hostile  act  in  question. 
Hence  it  was  apparent  that  the  government  had  no  disposition  to 
enforce  the  observance  of  an  act  which  had  been  extorted  from  it ; 
and  which  could  not  fail  to  be  prejudicial  to  the  best  interests  of  the 
island.  At  the  same  time  it  was  not  less  apparent,  that  the  party 
possessed  so  much  energy  and  strength  as  to  control  the  government 
whenever  it  was  for  their  interest  so  to  do  ; while  their  respect  for  it 
was  limited  to  the  observance  of  unimportant  forms.  It  is,  therefore, 
less  surprising  that  they  should  have  committed  some  acts  of  injus- 
tice and  folly,  than  that  they  should  have  been  restrained  by  any 
bounds  which  arrested  their  progress  in  the  pursuit  of  fortune. 

The  preparations  for  expediting  our  ship  had  advanced  so  slowly, 
that  the  20th  of  March  had  arrived  before  every  thing  was  in  readi- 
ness. A gale  of  wind,  amounting  almost  to  a hurricane,  which 
caused  the  ship  to  bring  home  her  anchors  and  almost  drove  her, 
.ashore,  was  one  cause  of  embarrassment;  the  difficulty  of  collecting 
the  great  number  of  men  required  for  such  a ship  was  another; 
while  each  additional  day’s  delay  added  to  the  chance  of  the  arrival 
of  the  blockading  squadron,  which  would  keep  us  shut  up  in  port  for 
the  space  of  another  month  or  two.  This  proportionally  increased 
the  anxiety  of  the  captain  of  the  Cronberg,  whose  expenses,  if  detained 
when  so  near  the  point  of  sailing,  would  be  ruinous.  On  the  21st  of 
March,  therefore,  as  this  dreaded  interruption  had  not  occurred,  the 
winds  and  weather  favoring  our  departure,  and  every  thing  being 
ready,  we  joined  the  ship,  and  were  accompanied  by  many  of  our 
friends  as  far  as  the  buoys.  There,  with  demonstrations  of  sincere 
regard,  and  good  wishes  for  a successful  voyage,  they  left  us  and 
returned  to  the  shore.  On  board  all  was  bustle  and  alacrity  in 
spreading  that  crowd  of  sail  which  was  invited  by  the  breeze,  and 
which  soon  carried  us  out  of  sight  of  the  island.  To  be  once  again 
on  the  bosom  of  old  ocean,  once  more  with  a direct  and  definite 
object  in  view,  after  so  long  and  tedious  a detention  at  the  Isle  of 
France,  excited  the  most  lively  feelings  of  satisfaction.  To  be  sailing 
in  so  magnificent  a ship,  with  no  other  care  than  to  make  myself 
comfortable,  was  entirely  a novel  situation  to  rr.e.  Nor  could  1 help 
thinking  of  the  contrast  betwesn  the  boat  in  which  I came  to  the 
Island,  and  the  ship  in  which  I was  now  leaving  it.  The  one  of 


THE  CRONBERG. 


145 


twenty-five  tons,  the  other  of  more  than  nine  hundred  tons ; the  one 
manned  with  four  Lascars,  the  other  with  one  hundred  Europeans ; the 
accommodations  in  one  bearing  some  resemblance  to  a dog-kennel, 
those  of  the  other,  light,  airy,  and  so  spacious,  that  the  room  exclu- 
sively appropriated  to  my  use,  was  of  greater  dimensions  than  the  whole 
capacity  of  the  first ; the  one  very  little  exceeding  in  size  the  long-boat 
of  the  other;  but  I need  not  enlarge  on  a difference  which  must 
be  obvious  to  all,  after  stating  the  relative  tonnage.  In  stateliness, 
and  beauty  of  appearance,  in  symmetry  and  just  proportions  of  hull 
and  rigging,  in  strength  and  equipment,  and  in  the  elegance  and 
commodiousness  of  the  accommodations,  no  ship  .could  surpass  the 
Cronberg.  Nothing  seemed  wanting  to  render  the  passage  before  us 
delightful,  excepting  a freedom  from  the  apprehension  of  meeting 
some  one  of  those  British  cruisers,  who  are  so  much  in  the  habit  of 
appropriating  to  their  own  use  the  property  of  other  people. 

But  we  soon  discovered  that  we  were  mistaken  ; and  that  our 
anxiety  was  to  be  augmented  by  a violation  of  the  agreement,  on  the 
part  of  the  captain,  relative  to  taking  French  passengers.  We  had 
scarcely  got  clear  of  the  land,  when  a person  of  this  description  came 
up  from  his  concealment.  Indignant  at  such  treatment,  we  imme- 
diately demanded  an  explanation,  and  were  told  he  was  not  French, 
but  a Swiss  gentleman.  Such  a miserable  subterfuge  did  not  mend 
the  matter ; and  r,ve  expressed  our  opinions  on  the  subject  in  terms 
that  the  deception  naturally  called  forth,  and  which  were  not  con- 
ducive to  that  harmony  between  the  captain  and  passengers,  so 
desirable  to  both  parties. 

On  the  twenty-third  day  after  leaving  the  Isle  of  France  we  passed 
the  longitude  of  the  Cape  of  Good  Hope,  nearly  four  degrees  to  the 
south  of  it.  The  only  vessels  seen  during  this  time  were  two  ships  in 
company,  which  kept  steadily  on  their  course.  Pursuing  our  way 
to  the  northwest  we  passed  the  latitude  of  St.  Helena  on  the  28th  of 
April,  at  the  distance  of  about  a hundred  and  fifty 'miles  west  of  it. 
Having  by  this  time  had  ample  opportunity  of  trying  our  ship  in  every 
variety  of  weather,  we  found  her  all  that  could  be  desired,  — a good 
sea  boat,  easy  to  her  rigging,  sailing  and  steering  well,  staunch  and 
strong  and  exceedingly  comfortable. 

On  the  1st  of  June,  being  in  latitude  41°  north,  and  longitude  32° 
13 


146 


FIRST  VOYAGE. 


west,  we  spoke  an  American  schooner  bound  to  Lisbon,  who  reported 
a continuation  of  the  war  in  Europe,  but  knew  nothing  relative  to  the 
political  state  of  Denmark.  With  strong  westerly  gales  we  made 
rapid  advances  towards  the  Orkney  Islands,  and  saw  them  on  the  9th. 
The  next  day  we  passed  by  Fair  Island  passage,  near  to  which  we  saw 
a ship  bound  to  the  westward  ; and  the  day  following,  when  abreast 
the  Naze  of  Norway,  we  spoke  a Danish  fishing-boat,  and  received 
the  astounding  information  of  war  between  England  and  Denmark. 
We  were  told,  that  the  fleet  of  the  former,  after  having  bombarded 
the  Danish  capital,  were  yet  in  its  neighborhood,  and  that  we  could 
not  proceed  further  towards  Elsinor  without  being  intercepted  by  a 
British  cruiser.  Directing  our  course,  therefore,  more  in  shore,  with 
a view  of  entering  a port  in  Norway,  on  approaching  it,  we  fired 
several  guns  for  a pilot,  and  succeeded  in  obtaining  one,  who  con- 
ducted us  into  Fleckery,  where  we  anchored  towards  evening  near 
the  fort.  An  officer  immediately  boarded  us,  and  confirmed  the 
information  we  had  received  from  the  fisherman.  Our  passage,  of 
only  eighty-four  days,  had  been,  in  every  respect,  the  pleasantest  I 
had  ever  made. 

Being  securely  anchored  under  the  guns  of  a Danish  fortress,  we 
could  not  help  reflecting  upon  the  risks  we  had  encountered;  so  much 
greater  titan  we  had  anticipated,  or  would  have  taken,  had  we  been 
aware  of  their  extent.  We  contrasted  our  present  situation  with 
what  it  would  have  been  if  we  had  fallen  into  the  hands  of  a cruiser. 
And  our  emotions  of  gratitude,  of  satisfaction  and  delight,  as  we 
thought  of  these  things,  were  in  proportion  to  the  importance  of  the 
object  attained,  and  the  dangers  escaped  in  the  attainment.  In  high 
spirits  at  the  unexpected  demand  for  our  cargo,  and  its  consequently 
increased  value,  we  set  out  early  in  the  morning  after  our  arrival  for 
Christiansand,  where  the  Danish  Commodore  lay,  with  a frigate  and 
several  corvettes.  Our  first  visit  was  to  the  Commodore,  who  con- 
gratulated us  on  an  escape,  which  he  termed  almost  miraculous,  and 
advised  that,  wi.hout  delay,  the  ship  should  be  brought  to  Christian- 
sand,  as  he  tonsidered  her  position  at  Fleckery  an  unsafe  one. 
Accordingly,  as  soon  as  practicable,  this  advice  was  followed. 

Perceiving  it  to  be  impossible  for  the  ship  to  go  to  Copenhagen  at 
present,  asJ  uncertain  how  long  this  state  of  things  would  continue, 


COPENHAGEN. 


147 


Mr.  Shaler  and  myself  determined  to  proceed  thither  without  delay. 
For  this  purpose  we  engaged  a passage  in  a coasting  s'essel,  then  on 
the  point  of  sailing  for  Nybourg.  We  dined  at  the  public  house  in 
Christiansand,  at  the  table  d'hote , with  a number  of  young  men  of 
the  country,  whose  pursuits  appeared  to  be  mercantile.  I supposed 
myself  to  be  generally  acquainted  with  the  European  customs  on 
such  occasions  ; but  a ceremony  was  observed  here,  which  I after* 
wards  found  to  prevail  in  Denmark;  though  t believe  it  is  peculiar 
to  that  country.  When  dinner  is  ended,  all  rise  together,  and, 
bowing  to  each  other,  and  shaking  hands,  say,  “ Much  good  may  it 
do  you,”  “ God  bless  you,”  &c.  ; and  this  seems  to  be  a piece  of 
etiquette  of  such  universal  observance,  that  a neglect  of  it  would  be 
considered  as  unmannerly  as  the  omission  to  drink  healths  would  be 
in  England. 

The  wind  being  unfavorable  on  the  13th,  we  remained  at  Christian- 
sand. In  the  course  of  the  night  it  came  round  fayorable ; and  at 
dawn  we  were  called  to  embark  ; Mr.  Shaler,  myself,  and  my  man 
George,  all  of  whom,  in  a general  passport,  were  styled  American 
merchants.  The  third  morning  after  sailing,  we  arrived  at  Nybourg, 
having  had  a very  comfortable  and  pleasant  passage,  to  which  the 
captain  greatly  contributed,  no  less  by  an  attention  to  our  wants,  than 
by  manifesting  one  of  the  most  amiable,  cheerful,  and  happy  charac- 
ters we  had  ever  met.  On  the  same  day  we  crossed  the  Belt,  in  the 
ferry-boat,  to  Corseur,  and  slept  there,  having  ordered  post  horses  and 
a wagon  to  be  ready  in  the  morning.  Accordingly,  at  seven  o’clock 
on  the  18th,  we  set  out  from  Corseur  in  a very  clumsy  wagon  without 
springs.  But  the  roads  were  very  good  ; and  the  fields  of  luxuriant 
vegetation  and  beautiful  verdure,  which  met  the  eye  on  every 
side,  were  the  more  striking,  attractive,  and  pleasing  to  us,  from 
having  been  so  long  accustomed  to  the  parched  earth,  and  burnt 
vegetation  of  a tropical  climate.  We  noticed,  on  either  side  of  the 
road,  many  of  those  mounds  which  are  said  to  cover  the  ashes  of 
ancient  chiefs  or  heroes.  Arriving  at  ten  o’clock  in  the  evening,  at 
Copenhagen,  we  drove  to  Muller’s  hotel,  a magnificent  house,  where 
we  were  provided  with  comfortable  apartments  and  good  entertainment. 

Three  years  had  now  elapsed  since  I had  had  any  accounts  from 
home.  Eager,  therefore,  to  obtain  some  information  relative  1o  my 


148 


FIRST  VOYAGE, 


connexions,  I went  out,  early  in  the  morning,  in  pursuit  of  some  of 
my  countrymen,  and  accidentally  met  with  an  old  acquaintance 
recently  from  Salem,  who  assured  me  of  the  welfare  of  my  friends, 
oniy  a few  weeks  before.  Thus,  every  thing  seemed  to  concur  to  fill 
up  the  measure  of  my  good  fortune,  and  to  call  forth  corresponding 
emotions  of  gratitude  to  the  great  Giver  of  all  good. 

Although  peace,  between  England  and  Denmark,  had  been  some 
days  restored,  and  orders,,  in  consequence,  had  been  despatched  to 
Norway  for  the  ship  to  proceed,  yet  she  did  not  arrive  at  Copenhagen 
before  the  1 6th  of  July.  Hence,  we  passed  a month  with  no  other 
occupation  than  sharing  in  the  amusements  of  the  city  and  its 
environs. 

There  are  few  cities  in  Europe,  which,  on  a first  view,  strike  a 
stranger  more  agreeably  than  Copenhagen.  The  size  and  beauty  of 
the  squares,  the  breadth  and  cleanliness  of  the  streets,  and  the'  general 
appearance  of  the  houses,  botli  public  and  private,  are  proofs  of  the 
wealth  and  enterprise  of  the  city,  and  of  the  excellence  of  its  police. 
A closer  examination  will  convince  him  that  all  irregularities  or 
nuisances,  which  are  offensive  to  the  public,  are  immediately  corrected  ; 
that  there  are  no  beggars  to  be  met  with  ; and  that  there  is  the  most 
perfect  security  for  person  and  property.  The  ramparts,  which 
nearly  encircle  the  city,  are  bordered  with  a double  row  of  lime  trees, 
offering  an  extensive  and  delightful  walk  to  all  classes,  and  an  equally 
delightful  ride,  but  for  a few  privileged  persons  only.  The  gardens 
of  the  Rosenberg  palace,  which  is  within  the  city,  are  thrown  open 
in  summer,  and  afford  a cool  and  pleasant  lounge  for  the  gay  and 
idle  of  both  sexes.  But  the  resort  most  frequented  is  the  garden  of 
the  royal  summer  residence,  Fredericksburg  palace,  about  two  miles 
west  of  the  city.  These  grounds  are  delightful,  and,  on  Sundays  and 
holidays,  are  crowded  with  a gay  assemblage  of  ail  classes,  who,  in 
their  best  attire,  meet  to  see  and  to  be  seen. 

On  the  way  to  these  gardens,  a little  beyond  the  western  gate  of 
the  city,  and  in  the  middle  of  the  road,  is  erected  a very  handsome 
obelisk,  of  brown  stone,  on  a square  base  of  marble  ; and  on  each 
corner  of  this  base  is  a handsome  marble  figure.  The  four  are 
emblematic  of  Peace,  Plenty,  Content,  and  Industry.  The  height  of 
the  obelisk  is  forty-eight  or  fifty  feet ; and  its  object  is  to  commemorate 


ROSENBERG  PALACE. 


149 


a circumstance  highly  interesting  to  the  philanthropist,  and  to  the 
advocate  of  civil  liberty  and  the  rights  of  man,  — the  emancipation 
of  the  Danish  peasantry,  which  took  place  January  1st,  1800.  On 
one  square  of  the  base  is  written  (in  Danish),  To  Christian  VII. 
King  of  the  Danes  and  Norwegians,  front  united  and  grateful  citizens.” 
On  the  opposite,  “ The  foundation  stone  was  laid  by  Frederick,  son 
of  the  king,  the  friend  of  the  people,  1792.”  On  the  sides  of  the 
obelisk,  “ The  king  is  sensible,  that  civil  liberty,  determined  by  just 
laws,  produces  a love  of  country,  and  courage  to  defend  it,  the  desire 
of  instruction,  the  taste  for  labor,  and  the  hope  of  happiness  : lie  has 
ordered  that  servitude  shall  cease,  that  order  and  promptitude  preside 
in  the  execution  of  rural  laws  ; In  order  that  the  cultivator,  free, 
courageous,  enlightened,  industrious,  and  good,  may  become  an 
estimable  and  happy  citizen.” 

The  great  palace,  which  was  burnt  in  1795,  and  which  was  one  of 
the  most  magnificent  in  Europe,  is  yet  in  ruins  ; and  it  is  supposed 
that  the  expense  of  removing  the  firm  and  massy  walls  would  scarcely 
be  less  than  that  of  repairing  it.  In  the  palace  of  Rosenberg,  an 
old-fashioned  pile,  which  has  been  built  more  than  two  centuries,  are 
kept  the  crown  and  jewels,  a very  handsome  and  complete  dining 
equipage  of  the  purest  gold,  silver  and  mosaic  tables,  rich  coronation 
and  wedding  dresses,  the  sword  taken  from  Charles  the  Twelfth  when 
he  fell  near  Frederieksliall,  many  fine  paintings',  &c.  This  palace 
is  uninhabited.  The  royal  winter  residence  is  in  the  eastern  part  of 
the  city,  in  the  beautiful  square  of  Ameliensberg,  in  the  centre  of 
which  is  a fine  equestrian  statue  of  Frederick  V.,  erected  at  the 
expense  of  the  Asiatic  Company. 

The  public  libraries  are  large  pnd  valuable,  and,  with  proper  intro- 
duction, are  alike  accessible  to  the  stranger  and  citizen.  The  royal 
museum  is  extensive,  and  contains  a great  variety  of  the  most  curious 
productions,  natural  and  artificial,  which  usually  constitute  such  col- 
lections. There  are  two  theatres,  which  arc  said  to  be  well  supported  ; 
and,  judging  from  their  crowded  state  when  1 have  been  present,  I 
think  this  may  be  the  case  ; but  both  houses  are  on  a small  scale. 

The  number  of  churches  appears  to  be  In  proper  proportion  to  the 
exte  nt  of  the  city  and  number  of  inhabitants  ; and  some  of  them  are 
large  and  handsome  ; but,  as  far  as  4 had  opportunity  of  observing, 
13* 


150 


FIRST  VOYAGE. 


they  appeared  to  be  but  thinly  attended  ; and,  for  the  most  part,  by 
the  poorer  class.  All  denominations  of  religion  are  tolerated  by  this 
government.  Among  the  population  of  this  city  are  many  Israelites. 
Their  occupation  is  principally  that  of  brokers,  dealers,  and  money- 
changers, and  some  of  them  are  very  rich  ; but  here,  as  elsewhere, 
they  hold  a subordinate  rank  in  society.  Still  their  situation  in  this 
city  is  eligible,  compared  with  that  of  their  brethren  in  many  other 
parts  of  Europe ; and  there  are  instances  of  the  King’s  having  con- 
ferred on  some  of  them  distinguished  marks  of  honor. 

The  character  of  the  Danes  has  long  been  established  for  bravery, 
loyalty,  learning,  and  virtue  ; and  experience  has  taught  me,  that  it 
is  not  less  remarkable  for  humanity,  generosity,  and  those  qualities 
of  mind  and  disposition  which  render  the  social  intercourse  every 
thing  vyhich  is  desirable.  Like  most  of  the  northern  people  of 
Europe,  they  have  a strong  predilection  for  the  customs  and  habits 
of  their  ancestors;  especially  the  peasantry,  with  whom  the  introduc- 
tion of  the  improved  tools  of  husbandry  and  better  mode  of  cultivation 
has  been  attended,  after  many  efforts  by  the  more  enlightened  citizens, 
with  only  partial  success. 

VVnere  no  advantage  is  to  be  derived  from  innovation,  it  is  not 
'attempted  ; and  the  night  watch  of  the  city  now  repeat  the  same 
doleful  ditty  that  has  probably  been  in  use  for  some  centuries.  In 
addition  to  the  hour,  which  they  name,  they  have  a long  moral 
sentence,  varying  for  each  hour,  and  which,  being  sung  in  the  harmo- 
nious manner  so  peculiar  to  watchmen,  is  particularly  edifying. 

These  remarks,  however,  do  not  apply  to  the  fairer  part  of  creation, 
who  watch  the  progress  of  improvement,  in  dress  and  etiquette,  with 
such  diligence,  that  the  fashion  of  a new  bonnet,  or  any  deviation 
in  the  mode  of  salutation,  or  of  visiting,  in  Paris,  is  at  once  known 
and  adopted  by  them.  Hence,  the  change  in  the  fashion  of  their 
habiliments  keeps  pace  with  the  ever-changing  modes  which  are 
imported  ; and  hence,  the  belles  of  Copenhagen  are  as  justly  remarked 
for  good  taste  in  dress,  as  for  fine  persons  and  graceful  manners. 
The  love  of  exercise,  or  the  desire  of  seeing  and  being  seen,  or 
perhaps  both,  induces  them  to  frequent  the  public  walks,  in  great 
numbers,  every  fine  day  ; where  they  are  admired  and  courted  by 
the  military  and  the  idle  young  men,  who  usually  abound  in  most  of 


VOYAGE  SUCCESSFUL. 


151 


the  large  cities  of  Europe.  They  possess  the  facility  of  acquiring 
languages,  which  seems  to  be  peculiar  to  the  northern  people  ; and  it 
is  not  uncommon  to  meet  with  young  ladies  who  speak  three  or  four 
different  languages.  Indeed,  the  subject  both  of  male  and  female 
education  receives  here  that  attennen  which  its  great  importance 
demands. 

The  safe  arrival  of  the  ship  from  Norway  seemed  to  close  the  risk 
on  this  adventure  ; and  the  occupation  it  immediately  gave,  in 
assisting  to  receive  and  sell  the  cargo,  was  a very  pleasant  one  ; 
especially  as  coffee  was  of  ready  sale,  and  bore  such  a price  as  to 
produce  a very  handsome  profit.  At  the  same  time  that  I was 
realizing  the  amount  of  this  property,  I had  accounts  from  America 
of  the  safe  arrival  there  of  that  part  of  the  proceeds  of  my  north- 
west voyage,  which  had  been  left  to  be  shipped,  and  which,  combined 
with  this,  rendered  me.  as  to  pecuniary  affairs,  very  independent. 


CHAPTE  R XII. 


Remarks — Associated  with  Mr.  Siialer  — Leave  Copenhagen  — Arrive  at  Hamburgh 
— Purchase  aVessel  — Decision  as  to  the  Command — Count  de  Rouissillon — Peace 
of  Amiens  — Discouraging  Prospects — Vessel  near  being  lost  in  the  River — Pro- 
ceed to  Sea — Arrive  at  Grand  Canaria  — Appearance  of  the  Town  — Departure. — 
Arrival  at  Rio  Janeiro  — An  Assassination  — Convent  of  Benedictines  — Bay  of 
Rio  — Departure  — Cape  Horn  — Lose  a Man  — Arrive  at  Valparaiso. 


voyage,  which  was  begun  with  such  very 
' t]  contracted  means,  at  Havre  de  Grace,  in  the 
autumn  of  1797,  and  was  completed  by  my  arrival 
at  Copenhagen,  in  the  summer  of  1801,  bad  been 
crowned  with  a success  far  surpassing  my  most 
sanguine  anticipations.  The  fortune  I had  gained 
was  amply  sufficient  to  enable  me  to  live  indepen- 
dently in  the  moderate  and  unostentatious  style 
which  I proposed  to  myself.  But  I had  been  too  long 
accustomed  to  a life  of  activity  and  excitement,  to  be 
reconciled  to  one  of  indulgence  and  repose.  Indeed,  it 
is  generally  acknowledged  that  the  stimulus  for  engaging  in 
new  adventures,  and  incurring  new  risks,  is  increased  in  pro- 
portion to  the  success  attendant  on  the  preceding  ones.  This 
stimulus  with  me  would  have  been  great  under  any  circum- 
but  when,  as  at  this  time,  I could  have,  as  my  associate  in  a 
voyage  round  the  world,  my  tried  friend  and  fellow-passenger  from 
the  Isle  of  France,  William  Shaler,  a congenial  spirit,  the  temptation 
was  irresistible.  On  our  late  passage  together  we  had  discussed  the 
project  of  a voyage  to  the  west  coast  of  America ; and  indeed,  we 
had  so  far  agreed  upon  it,  as  to  make  it  dependent  alone  on  the  cir- 
cumstance of  meeting  a suitable  American  vessel  which  could  be 
obtained  at  a reasonable  price.  None  such  being  procurable  at 
Copenhagen,  and  aware  of  the  extensive  American  commerce  with 


stances 


HAMBURGH. 


153 


Hamburgh,  we  determined  to  proceed  to  that  city,  in  the  expectation 
of  procuring  such  an  one  as  we  desired. 

Accordingly,  as  soon  as  we  had  settled  our  business  at  Copenhagen, 
we  took  passage  in  the  packet  for  Kiel  early  in  the  month  of  August; 
but,  owing  to  unceasing  adverse  winds,  our  progress  was  very  slow. 
Our  fellow-passengers  consisted  of  two  Swedish  barons,  a militaire 
of  the  same  nation,  a Swiss  savant , and  three  Danish  merchants,  each 
of  whom  was  provided  with  an  enormous  pipe,  the  frequent  use  of 
which  seemed  to  be  no  trifling  solace  during  the  tedious  hours  passed 
on  board  the  packet. 

After  having  been  four  days  on  board,  during  which,  from  the 
absence  of  every  comfort  of  accommodation  and  food,  we  suffered 
greater  privations  than  are  usually  experienced  on  a passage  across 
the  Atlantic,  we  were  all  very  glad  to  be  landed  on  the  Island  of 
Femeren.  Here  we  took  post-horses  for  Hamburgh,  and  arrived  there 
on  the  1 4th  of  August.  We  had  some  doubts  whether  our  appear- 
ance, having  had  no  opportunity  of  making  our  toilettes  for  several 
days,  was  not  so  much  against  us  as  to  prevent  the  landlords  admit- 
ting us,  or  whether,  as  they  said,  their  houses  were  so  full  that  they 
could  not ; for,  after  having  unsuccessfully  tried  at  three  differ- 
ent hotels,  we  were  finally  obliged  to  put  up  with  rooms  in  the 
fourth  story  of  the  Kramerampthuys.  Further  observation,  however, 
convinced  us  that  the  city  was  uncommonly  crowded  ; as,  in  addition 
to  the  multitude  of  strangers,  who  were  there  for  commercial  pur- 
poses, there  were  computed  to  be  thirty  thousand  French  emigrants. 
Hence  the  difficulty  we  experienced  in  finding  lodgings.  After  some 
days,  we  succeeded  in  procuring  rooms  at  a private  house  in  the  great 
St.  Michael’s  street. 

It  was  soon  obvious  that  we  should  meet  with  no  embarrassment  in 
finding  here  a vessel  suited  to  our  purpose  ; for  the  number  of  Amer- 
ican vessels  in  port  afforded  us  a choice,  almost  equal  to  what  is  usual 
in  any  one  of  the  great  commercial  ports  in  the  United  States.  In 
selecting  one,  on  board  of  which  there  was  a prospect  of  passing 
two  or  three  years,  and  in  countries  where  repairs  and  articles  of 
equipment  were  of  doubtful  attainment,  it  was  important  to  unite  the 
properties  of  strength,  durability,  material,  swiftness  of  sailing,  capac- 
ity for  carrying,  and  comfortable  accommodations.  Such  an  one 


154 


FIRST  VOYAGE. 


was  offered  us  in  the  brig  Lelia  Byrd,  of  Portsmouth,  Virginia,  of  a 
hundred  and  seventy-five  tons  burden,  which  we  purchased  at  a fair  price. 

While  my  friend  and  associate  went  to  Bordeaux,  to  settle  some 
affairs  of  his  own,  I remained  at  Hamburgh  to  attend  to  coppering 
and  repairing  the  vessel,  to  enlarging  and  improving  the  accommoda- 
tions, and  to  purchasing  the  cargo,  which  we  had  agreed  should  be 
embarked.  These  objects  were  accomplished  and  the  vessel  laden  by 
the  end  of  September  ; at  which  time  Mr.  Shaler  returned  from  Bor- 
deaux. It  now  became  necessary  to  set  about  shipping  our  men  ; but 
before  this  could  be  done,  it  was  requisite  to  determine  which  of  us 
should  go  in  the  capacity  of  master.  As  both  were  equally  compe- 
tent to  the  task,  and  neither  ambitious  of  it,  the  subject  had  not  even 
been  mentioned.  When  it  became  absolutely  necessary  to  settle  the 
question,  we  agreed  to  decide  it  by  lot.  The  decision  was  in  favor  of 
Mr.  Shaler,  who  took  command  and  enlisted  the  men,  while  I em- 
barked in  the  capacity  of  supercargo,  but  with  an  understanding  that 
these  designations  were  only  for  form’s  sake ; and  that  the  duties  of 
each  station  were  to  he  reciprocally  performed  by  each.  Our  interests 
in  the  vessel  and  in  the  cargo  being  equal,  there  existed  no  inequal- 
ity in  our  powers,  or  in  the  profits,  of  whatever  description,  that  might 
be  realized. 

During  our  sojourn  at  Hamburgh,  we  had  become  acquainted  with 
the  Count  de  Rouissilion,  a young  Polish  nobleman,  of  superioi 
education  and  talents.  Pie  had  fought  for  the  liberty  of  his  country, 
as  aid-de-camp  to  the  unfortunate  Ivosciusco ; and  being  one  of  the 
proscribed,  was  living  in  Hamburgh  on  slender  means,  and  without 
occupation.  In  the  society  of  a gentleman  of  such  intelligence, 
accomplishments,  and  companionable  traits,  we  knew  that  we  should 
be  repaid  for  the  additional  expense  of  taking  him  as  a compagnon 
de  voyage , and  we  agreed  to  invite  him  to  accompany  us  as  such. 
He  had  never  been  at  sea,  and  a voyage  round  the  world  to  a man 
like  him,  reared  in  the  interior  of  a continent,  offered  such  attractions 
that  he  acceded  to  the  proposal  not  only  without  hesitation,  but  with 
expressions  of  great  satisfaction  and  delight. 

Various  causes  tended  so  to  retard  our  labors,  that  it  was  in  the 
month  of  October  before  every  thing  was  ready  for  our  departure. 
In  the  mean  time  we  received  information  of  the  sudden  and  nnex- 


A STORM. 


155 


pected  termination  of  the  war  between  France  and  England  by  the 
treaty  of  Amiens,  an  event  which  had  a most  inauspicious  bearing  on 
the  prospects  of  our  voyage.  The  commerce  of  Spain  with  her 
colonies,  which  had  been  for  so  many  years  annihilated  by  the  all- 
powerful  marine  of  Great  Britain,  would  be  again  renewed.  By  the 
regular  introduction,  in  Spanish  ships,  of  the  manufactures  of  Europe, 
their  hitherto  exorbitant  prices  would  be  reduced,  which  would  pro- 
portionally lessen  the  inducement  which  had  before  existed  for  obtain- 
ing them  in  an  irregular  manner.  It  was  obvious,  therefore,  that  a 
voyage  to  Chili  and  Peru  could  now  be  made  only  under  the  most 
discouraging  auspices  ; as  the  same  cause  which  operated  to  enable 
the  inhabitants  to  supply  themselves  with  manufactures,  would  also 
operate  greatly  to  increase  the  danger  to  foreign  vessels,  by  the 
increased  number  and  vigilance  of  the  guardacostas,  hitherto  confined 
to  their  ports  by  the  presence  of  a superior,  hostile  force.  But  a 
retreat  in  this  advanced  state  of  the  business,  by  a re-sale  of  the  vessel 
and  cargo,  could  not  be  effected  without  great  loss ; and  although 
this  might  have  been  the  most  prudent  part,  we  could  not  reconcile 
our  minds  to  it ; and,  therefore,  determined  to  prosecute  the  voyage. 

Before  we  could  act  on  this  decision,  all  our  embarrassments  and 
fears  for  the  future  came  very  near  being  terminated  by  the  loss  of 
the  vessel,  while  yet  in  the  river.  The  day  after  her  anchoring  off 
Gluckstadt,  whither  she  had  been  taken  by  the  pilot,  a tremendous 
storm  occurred,  which  brought  in  the  tide  so  as  to  inundate  all  the 
lower  part  of  the  city.  The  damage  in  the  river,  by  the  loss  and 
injury  of  vessels  and  the  destruction  of  property,  was  very  great. 
Our  vessel  dragged  her  anchors  some  distance,  and  was  in  imminent 
danger  of  going  on  the  piers  of  Gluckstadt,  where  a total  loss  would 
probably  have  ensued.  One  cable  parted,  and  the  pilot  was  urgent 
for  cutting  away  the  masts,  but  the  mate  would  not  consent,  and  we 
finally  escaped  with  only  the  loss  of  the  stern  boat,  which  was  taken 
from  the  davits  by  the  violence  of  the  sea. 

Having  recovered  our  anchor,  and  purchased  a new  boat,  we  took 
the  first  favorable  opportunity  to  proceed  down  the  river,  and  after  a 
temporary  anchoring  at  Cuxhaven,  put  to  sea  on  the  8th  of  November, 
1801,  in  company  with  a dozen  sail  of  ships  and  brigs,  which  like 
ourselves  were  bound  to  the  westward.  The  superiority  of  sailing 


156 


FIRST  VOYAGE. 


of  the  Lelia  Byrd  was  soon  manifest,  as,  at  the  expiratior  nf  f-  vr 
hours,  hut  two  of  the  number  that  sailed  with  us  were  discernible 
from  the  deck,  having  been  left  far  astern.  The  wind  throughout  the 
night  and  the  next  day  was  light  and  variable,  and  our  progress  it 
consequence  so  slow,  that  we  did  not  pass  Dover  till  the  1 3th,  off 
which  we  were  boarded  by  a boat  from  that  place,  with  the  offer  of 
pilotage,  or  of  forwarding  letters  ; neither  of  which  services  had  we 
any  occasion  for.  Proceeding  on  our  course,  we  passed  in  sight  of 
the  Isle  of  Ushant  with  a fine  breeze  at  northwest,  and,  without  any 
occurrence  worthy  of  notice,  came  in  sight  of  the  Island  of  Grand 
Canaria,  on  the  28th,  where  although  only  twenty  days  out,  we  deter- 
mined to  stop  for  an  additional  supply  of'  fruit,  vegetables,  <Szc.  We 
therefore  anchored  next  morning  in  twelve  fathoms, ' sandy  bottom, 
about  three. miles  from  the  town,  which,  from  this  position,  presented 
a very  pleasing  and  somewhat  imposing  appearance. 

After  the  customary  visit  from  the  public  authorities,  Messrs.  Shaler, 
Rouissillon,  and  myself,  accompanied  by  the  captain  of  the  port,  as 
cicerone , went  on  shore  to  see  the  town,  and  to  ascertain  if  our  wants 
could  be  supplied  without  losing  too  much  time.  We  dined  with  the 
captain  of  the  port,  who  engaged  to  procure  for  us  the  stores  of 
which  we  had  need.  Palma  de  Canaria,  which  is  the  name  of  the 
town,  is  the  most  considerable  place  on  the  island,  numbering  about 
twelve  thousand  inhabitants,  who  are  a hardy  and  industrious  race, 
living  principally  by  the  cultivation  of  the  soil.  It  is  the  residence 
of  a bishop,  whose  revenue  is  said  to  exceed  one  hundred  thousand 
dollars  per  annum.  The  town  is  pleasantly  situated,  on  a plain  at  the 
foot  of  the  mountains,  and  on  the  east  side  of  the  island.  The  cathe- 
dral is  built  of  stone,  and  of  dimensionsand  site,  which  make  it  the  most 
conspicuous  object  on  approaching  the  town  from  sea.  The  bishop’s 
palace,  the  hospital,  and  the  convents,  of  which  there  are  three  of 
nuns  and  two  of  friars,  make  an  imposing  appearance  ; but  the  private 
houses  in  which  wealth,  if  it  exists,  is  usually  displayed,  do  not  gen- 
erally afford  proofs  of  ease  and  independence  in  the  circumstances 
of  their  proprietors.  We  found  provisions  of  all  kinds  to  be  extremely 
scarce  and  dear.  Three-fourths  of  a dollar  was  the  price  of  a mod- 
erate sized  fowl,  and  sheep  and  pigs  in  proportion.  Under  these 
circumstances,  we  took  on  board  no  greater  supply  than  would  ba 


SANTA  CRUZ, 


157 


Sufficient  to  last  us  to  Rio  Janeiro,  where  we  had  determined  to  stop, 
v ith  some  hope  of  being  able  there  to  dispose  of  our  cargo. 

On  the  2d  of  December,  having  made  our  acknowledgments  to  the 
captain  of  the  port  for  his  civilities,  and  taken  leave  of  him,  we  went 
on  board,  weighed  anchor,  and  made  all  sail  to  the  southward.  The 
tradewinds  were  unusually  light,  the  sea  proportionally  smooth,  and 
the  weather  serene  and  pleasant.  Nevertheless  our  little  vessel  felt  the 
impulse  of  the  slightest  breeze,  and  would  make  considerable  progress 
at  times  when  many  vessels  could  not  keep  steerage  way ; hence  we 
had  no  apprehension  of  long  delay  in  passing  the  calm  latitudes.  On 
the  2t)th,  having  crossed  the  equator  in  longitude  26°  west,  we  soon 
took  the  southeast  trade-wind,  which  for  several  days  blew  with  such 
strength  as  obliged  us  to  single  reef  our  topsails.  As  is  usual  in 
advancing  southward,  the  wind  became  more  easterly,  which,  enabling 
us  to  set  our  studding  sails,  carried  us  onward  at  the  rate  of  ten  to 
eleven  miles  an  hour,  for  several  days  in  succession,  and  gave  us 
promise  of  soon  reaching  our  destined  port.  On  the  1st  of  January, 
1802,  we  came  in  sight  of  Cape  Frio,  and  next  day,  towards  evening, 
came  to  anchor  in  seven  fathoms,  outside  the  fort  of  Santa  Cruz,  it 
being  calm  and  the  tide  setting  against  us. 

Soon  after  anchoring  we  were  visited  by  the  captain  of  the  port, 
accompanied  by  an  officer  from  the  guard-ship,  who,  after  making 
themselves  acquainted  with  the  object  of  our  visit,  desired  us  to 
remain  in  our  present  position  till  the  will  of  their  superiors  should  be 
made  known  to  us,  in  the  morning.  Accordingly,  as  soon  as  the  sea 
breeze  set  in,  the  captain  of  the  port  again  came  on  board  with  the 
requisite  permission  to  enter  the  port.  Then,  weighing  anchor,  he 
conducted  us  to  a very  snug  birth  within  the  Ilha  das  Cobras,  where 
we  moored  near  an  American  and  a Danish  ship,  the  only  foreigners 
in  port,  and  where,  we  appeared  to  be  perfectly  sheltered  from  the 
influence  of  any  of  the  storms  or  hurricanes,  which  are  peculiar  to 
the  tropical  regions. 

The  next  morning  we  were  visited,  with  much  formality,  by  the 
municipal  authorities,  accompanied  by  the  interpreter,  to  ascertain  the 
condition  of  our  vessel,  and  to  know  our  wants,  in  order  that,  from 
their  report  to  superior  authority,  it  might  be  decided  how  long  we 
should  be  permitted  to  remain  in  port.  Aware  of  the  jealousy  of  the 
14 


158 


FIRST  VOYAGE. 


government  towards  all  foreigners,  and  their  practice  of  rigidly 
enforcing  the  law  for  the  exclusion  of  any  other  flag  than  their  own, 
except  in  cases  of  emergency,  we  presumed  the  time  granted  to  us 
would  be  very  limited,  and  were  therefore  very  well  satisfied  when  it 
was  anounced  to  us  that  the  Viceroy  permitted  us  to  remain  eight 
days.  This  was  ample  time  to  fill  up  our  water-casks,  to  procure  a 
supply  of  stock,  vegetables,  and  fruit,  and  to  ascertain  if  it  were  pos- 
sible to  dispose  of  our  cargo  to  some  one  of  the  traders,  who  were 
here  from  the  River  Plate. 

Having  at  length  obtained  leave  to  go  on  shore,  we  readily  availed 
ourselves  of  it,  although  with  the  incumbrance  of  a soldier  constantly 
following  us ; nor,  during  our  stay,  were  we  at  any  time  on  shore 
without  being  thus  watched.  Nevertheless,  as  there  were  no  limits 
to  our  wandering  about  the  city,  we  visited  nearly  every  part  of  it. 
We  passed  one  evening  at  the  theatre.  The  company  was  numerous, 
orderly,  well-dressed,  and  apparently  respectable.  Their  patience 
was  put  to  the  test  by  his  Excellency  the  Viceroy,  before  whose  arri- 
val the  curtain  could  not  be  raised,  and  who  kept  them  waiting  till 
past  eight  o’clock.  When  he  entered  his  box,  all  rose,  with  their 
faces  towards  him;  at  the  same  time  the  music  struck  up  a favorite 
air.  After  this,  a comedy  in  five  acts  was  performed,  succeeded  by 
a ballet,  which  gave  general  satisfaction,  and  which  detained  us  till 
past  midnight. 

On  the  third  day  after  our  arrival,  being  in  one  of  the  large  streets 
of  the  city,  engaged  in  conversation  with  the  linguist,  whom  I had 
accidentally  met  there,  I perceived  a man  carried  by  in  the  arms  of 
two  others.  His  clothes  were  very  bloody,  and  he  appeared  to  be 
dying.  On  inquiring  what  accident  had  happened  to  him,  I was  told 
with  much  sang  froid , that  he  had  just  been  stabbed,  and  that  the 
perpetrator  of  the  deed  had  escaped.  The  linguist  seemed  to  receive 
the  information  with  as  little  emotion  as  if  it  were  a circumstance  of 
every  day’s  occurrence.  Yet  it  is  apparent,  that  no  people  are  more 
attached  to  life;  and  if  the  crime  of  murder  were  held  in  as  general 
abhorrence'  as  in  many  other  countries,  it  would  be  of  equally  rare 
occurrence.  But,  in  this  country,  the  assassin  generally  escapes  with 
impunity;  and  this  encourages  a repetition  of  the  crime,  on  every 
trifling  provocation. 


VISIT  A CONVENT. 


159 


In  one  of  our  morning  walks,  Mr.  Rouissillon  and  myself  went  to  the 
Convent  of  Benedictines,  which  is  beautifully  situated  on  an  eminence 
facing  the  harbor.  Seeing  one  of  the  monks  at  the  door  of  the 
chapel,  who  spoke  Italian,  Mr.  Rouissillon  made  known  to  him  our 
desire  of  seeing  the  interior  of  the  convent,  when  he  very  civilly 
expressed  the  pleasure  he  should  take  in  showing  it  to  us.  We  were 
first  conducted  through  the  chapel,  which,  as  usual  in  these  establish- 
ments, is  the  pride  of  the  fraternity.  The  profusion  of  ornaments 
and  gold  about  the  altar,  which  strikes  the  eye  on  first  entering,  is 
very  grand  and  imposing,  and  probably  produces  the  reverential  effect 
intended  on  the  majority  of  those  who  worship  there.  Contiguous  to 
the  chapel  is  a small  room,  used  exclusively  as  the  depository  of 
some  relics  of  a saint,  whose  history,  and  even  name,  I have  forgot- 
ten. Following  our  conductor,  we  passed  up  a flight  of  stairs  to  the 
cells  and  the  dining-room.  The  former  are  about  twelve  feet 
square,  with  one  window,  and  are  furnished  each  with  a bed,  a chair, 
and  a table  of  ordinary  manufacture.  The  latter  is  about  sixty  feet 
by  thirty,  with  small  windows  near  the  ceiling.  On  one  side,  about 
midway  of  the  room,  is  a pulpit,  from  which  one  of  the  brothers 
reads  a sermon  or  homily,  while  the  others  are  engaged  at  their  meal. 

On  the  same  floor,  and  in  a delightful  room,  the  large  windows  of 
which  open  upon  the  harbor,  is  the  library,  containing  from  ten  to 
twelve  thousand  volumes,  mostly  in  the  French,  Italian,  and  Latin  lan- 
guages. My  friend  evinced  so  familiar  an  acquaintance  with  many 
of  these  works,  that  the  monk,  who  accompanied  us,  was  much  aston- 
ished. This  we  discovered  by  his  remarking  it  to  a brother  then  in 
the  room,  and  taking  occasion  to  contrast  the  ignorance  and  indiffer- 
ence to  literature  of  their  own  countrymen  with  the  intelligence  and 
laudable  curiosity  of  these  foreign  youths.  The  revenue  of  this  fra- 
ternity is  said  to  be  very  large,  from  sugar  and  coffee  plantations. 
They  number  about  forty  good  healthy-looking  men,  who  may  be 
supposed  to  be  leading  innocent  lives,  but,  certainly  to  appearance, 
very  useless  ones.  On  taking  leave  of  our  good-natured  conductor, 
he  very  civilly  invited  us  to  come  again.  The  public,  or  royal  garden, 
which  is  about  two  miles  southeast  from  the  city,  and  on  the  border 
of  the  bay,  is  susceptible  of  being  made  a beautiful  walk  and  lounge 
as  it  is  shaded  with  many  fine  trees,  and  is  open  to  the  full  influence 


160 


FIRST  VOYAGE. 


of  the  sea  breeze  ; but  it  is  in  a dilapidated  state,  is  much  neglected, 
and  but  little  frequented. 

Nothing  can  be  imagined  more  beautiful  than  the  picture  presented 
on  entering  the  bay  of  Rio  Janeiro.  On  the  left  is  the  remarkable 
high  rock,  in  the  form  of  a sugar-loaf,  inclining  north  very  consider- 
ably from  a perpendicular,  and  bounding  that  side  of  the  entrance. 
On  the  right  is  the  formidable  and  beautiful  fortress  of  Santa  Cruz, 
near  to  whose  walls  ships  must  pass  to  keep  in  the  deep  water,  and* 
from  which  they  are  hailed  by  the  sentry.  In  front,  and  apparently 
in  mid  passage,  is  a small  rocky  island,  on  which  is  a battery  ; and 
beyond  this. is  the  bay  of  too  great  extent  yet  to  discern  the  extremity. 
Passing  between  this  small  island  and  the  point  of  Santa  Cruz,  the 
bay  is  entered,  and  the  scenery  becomes  more  picturesque.  On  one 
side,  the  city,  with  its  churches,  its  convents,  its  palace  and  houses, 
and  a battery,  occupy  the  front  ground.  In  the  rear,  and  at  a greater 
elevation,  is  seen  the  aqueduct,  constructed  with  two  tiers  of  arches. 
On  the  other  side  are  irregular  hills,  beautifully  clothed  in  verdure,  on 
several  of  which  are  perched  neat  white  chapels  and  convents,  whose 
inhabitants  seem  to  be  withdrawn  from  the  rest  of  the  world.  Beyond 
these,  the  horizon  is  limited  by  a range  of  singularly  uneven  moun- 
tains, which,  from  the  resemblance,  are  called  the  organ  pipes.  In 
the  bay,  immediately  in  front  of  the  city,  are  seen  the  ships  of  war, 
beyond  which,  and  behind  the  Ilha  das  Cobras,  which  forms  the  inner 
harbor,  is  the  forest  of  masts  of  the  merchant  ships.  The  inter- 
course kept  up  between  the  city  and  St.  Domingo  and  Praya  Grande, 
on  the  opposite  side  of  the  bay,  by  means  of  numerous  small  sail- 
boats, gives  life  and  animation  to  the  scene,  a harmonious  finish, 
which  renders  it  perfectly  beautiful. 

The  city  itself,  independently  of  its  natural  advantages,  and  the  beau- 
tiful scenery  by  which  it  is  environed,  has  nothing  to  recommend  it  to 
the  strangers’s  attention.  Its  palace  is  of  ordinary  construction, 
neither  remarkable  for  size  nor  architectural  proportions.  The  con- 
vents, like  all  buildings  of  that  description,  have  the  appearance  of 
prisons.  The  cathedral,  being  only  partly  built,  had  neither  shape 
nor  comeliness.  The  houses,  generally,  appeared  to  be  well  adapted 
to  the  climate  : but  1 observed  nothing*  in  the  exterior  of  any  of 
them,  which  would  indicate  the  wealth  which  is  attributed  to  many  ef 


DEATH  CF  A SAILOR. 


161 


the  inhabitants.  The  aqueduct,  by  which  the  city  is  supplied  with 
water,  is  decidedly  the  most  useful,  and  probably  the  most  costly 
public  work  to  be  seen  here.  It  commences  near  the  Corcovado, 
'where  the  waters  are  collected  in  a covered  reservoir,  and  are  thence 
conveyed  into  the  canal,  in  which,  protected  from  the  heat  of  the  sun. 
they  reach  the  city  without  losing  their  freshness. 

Finding  that  we  could  not  dispose  of  our  cargo  here,  and  having 
provided  the  store  requisite  for  the  passage  to  the  Chilian  coast,  there 
was  no  inducement  to  prolong  our  stay  beyond  the  time  limited  at  ou: 
entry.  We  therefore,  on  the  9th,  cleared  out  at  the  custom-house, 
and  moved  the  vessel  from  the  harbor  into  the  bay,  that  we  might  be 
ready  to  take  advantage  of  the  land  breeze  early  the  following  morn- 
ing. Having  apprised  the  Captain  of  the  port  of  this  intention,  he 
came  on  board  in  good  season,  and  conducted  us  out  till  past  the 
castle,  when  he  took  leave  with  the  customary  salutation,  and  we 
pursued  our  course  to  the  south. 

The  occurrences  during  this  passage,  with  one  melancholy  excep- 
tion, were  as  uninteresting  as  is  common  on  such  voyages.  The 
change  of  latitude  brings  a change  of  weather,  and  this  causes 
the  most  important,  if  not  the  only  variety  in  the  daily  routine,  — that 
of  reducing  and  spreading  sail  more  frequently,  as  we  advance 
toward  the  stormy  parallel.  On  the  1st  day  of  February  we  saw 
land  to  the  westward,  being  in  latitude  54°  4CF  south.  But,  having 
head  winds  several  succeeding  days,  we  made  scarcely  any  progress 
till  the  5th,  when  we  took  a breeze  from  northwest,  which,  after  a 
few  hours,  came  from  northeast;  and  next  day,  from  east-northeast, 
from  whence  it  continued  a fine  breeze  throughout  the  day,  and 
increasing  in  the  night,  so  as  to  oblige  us  to  take  in  top-gallant  sails, 
and,  before  morning,  to  reef  our  topsails. 

On  the  morning  of  the  7th  we  perceived  the  water  to  be  discolored, 
and  soon  after  saw  Cape  Horn  to  the  westward,  distant  nine  or  ten 
leagues.  Soon  after,  the  wind  shifted  to  the  south-southeast,  and 
thence  to  south-southwest,  blowing  in  squalls,  with  great  violence, 
which  obliged  us  to  furl  the  foretopsail  and  close  reef  the  main  one. 
While  engaged  on  the  latter,  we  had  the  misfortune  to  lose  John 
Green,  a Norwegian,  who  fell  from  the  yard,  struck  his  head  against 
the  main  chains,  and  fell  into  the  sea.  He  was  seen  but  a moment, 
14* 


162 


SECOND  VOYAGE. 


his  head  very  bloody,  and  then  disappeared.  An  immediate  and 
general  rush  was  made  to  clear  away  the  boat,  but  a moment’s 
reflection  was  sufficient  to  satisfy  every  one,  that  the  boat  could  not 
fail  to  be  swamped  immediately  in  the  high  and  very  irregular  sea, 
which,  had  been  created  by  the  sudden  shifting  of  the  wind.  Nor, 
had  it  been  otherwise,  would  it  have  been  of  any  avail,  as  the  blow 
on  the  head  must  have  been  fatal.  Thus  perished,  in  an  instant,  an 
excellent  young  man,  in  the  prime  of  life,  and  vigor  of  health  and 
spirits,  beloved  by  his  shipmates,  and  highly  prized  by  the  master  and 
officers.  This  distressing  event  cast  a gloom  on  the  spirits  of  all  on 
board,  which  was  not  entirely  effaced  during  the  remainder  of  the 
passage,  nor  till  new  scenes  and  new  avocations,  in  a degree,  oblitera- 
ted the  recollections  of  the  past. 

We  began  now  to  experience  a specimen  of  that  tempestuous 
weather  for  which  Cape  Horn  is  so  justly  famed.  Hard  and  contin- 
ued gales  from  the  westward,  during  which  we  could  only  lie  to  ; 
some  days  so  cold,  although  in  mid-summer,  that  the  sleet  and  snow 
lay  on  the  weather  side  of  the  mast  till  past  noon.  At  length,  after 
having  contended  more  than  a week,  with  adverse  winds  and  boisterous 
weather,  we  had  the  satisfaction  of  a favorable  change,  which  con- 
tinuing, without  other  incident  worthy  of  note,  carried  us  to  the  Bay 
of  Valparaiso,  where  we  arrived  on  the  24th  day  of  February,  1802, 
forty-five  days  from  Rio  Janeiro,  and,  including  stoppages,  one 
hundred  and  eight  days  since  leaving  the  Elbe. 


CHAPTER  XIII, 


American  Vessels  at  Valparaiso  — Permission  to  obtain  Supplies  — Threat  of  tli; 
Captain-General — Controversy  between  the  Governor  and  Captain  Rowan — Arrest 
and  Imprisonment  of  Americans  — Preparation  for  Hostilities  — Anger  of  the  Gov- 
ernor— Determined  on  Vengeance  — His  Treachery  — Capture  of  the  Ship  Hazard 

— Imprisonment  of  Rowan  — Correspondence  with  the  Captain-General — Defer 
our  Departure — Seizure  of  our  Vessel — Interrogatories — Our  Vessel  restored  tc 
us  — Order  of  the  Captain-General  to  leave  the  Port  — Proposition  from  the  Col- 
lector—Refused — Return  of  the  actual  Governor — Interview  and  civil  Reception 

— Departure. 


entering  the  Bay  of  Valparaiso,  we  were 
boarded  by  a naval  officer  from  a guardacosta, 
then  lying  in  port.  He  desired  us  not  to  cast 
I anchor  till  the  captain  had  presented  himself  tc 
the  Governor  and  obtained  his  permission  Con- 
sequently, while  Mr.  Shaler  accompanied  this  of- 
ficer to  the  Governor,  we  layoff  and  on  in  the  bay. 
More  than  an  hour  had  elapsed  before  his  return 
with  a permission  to  anchor,  and  to  remain  till  a reply 
could  be  received  from  the  Captain-General  at  Santi- 
ago, to  our  request  for  leave  to  supply  our  wants,  for 
which  a despatch  was  to  he  forwarded  immediately. 
We  were  surprised  to  find  no  less  than  four  American 
vessels  lying  here,  viz.  the  ship  Hazard  of  Providence,  on 
a voyage  similar  to  our  own,  detained  on  suspicion  of  being 
English,  from  the  circumstance  of  being  armed.  The  ship 
Miantinomo  and  schooner  Oneco  of  Norwich,  Connecticut,  each  with 
valuable  cargoes  of  seal  skins  taken  on  the  Island  of  Masafuera,  both 
detained,  and  finally  confiscated,  on  a charge  of  having  supplied 
English  privateers,  then  on  the  coast,  with  provisions  which  they  had 
obtained  at  Talcahuana  ; and  the  ship  Tryal,  of  Nantucket,  a whaler, 
also  detained  for  alleged  illicit  trade.  If  we  were  surprised  to  mee' 


i 


164 


SECOND  VOYAGE. 


so  many  of  our  countrymen  here,  we  were  equally  mortified,  and  in 
some  degree  alarmed  for  our  own  safety,  to  find  them  all  under 
seizure.  Yet,  while  we  violated  no  law,  and  required  no  other  than 
the  privileges  secured  to  us  by  treaty,  we  could  not  believe  that  we 
should  be  molested. 

On  the  third  day  after  the  Governor’s  messenger  had  been  des- 
patched a reply  was  received  from  the  Captain-General,  — the  pur- 
port of  which  was,  that  our  passage  had  been  so  good  that  we  could 
not  be  in  want  of  provisions,  if  we  had  provided  such  quantity  in 
Europe  as  we  ought  to  have  done.  But  if  it  were  otherwise,  and  our 
wants  were  as  urgent  as  represented,  the  mode  by  which  we  proposed 
paying  for  them,  by  a bill  on  Paris,  was  inadmissible  ; and,  therefore, 
that  it  was  his  Excellency’s  order  that  we  should  leave  the  port  at 
the  expiration  of  twenty-four  hours  after  this  notification.  On  remon- 
strating with  the  Governor,  and  pointing  out  to  him  the  inhumanity 
of  driving  us  to  sea,  while  in  possession  of  so  small  a supply  of  the 
first  necessaries  of  life,  he  very  reluctantly  consented  to  our  remain- 
ing another  post ; and  even  promised  to  make  a more  favorable  report, 
on  the  urgencies  of  our  necessities,  than  he  had  done.  But  as  the 
order  was  reiterated,  we  doubted  his  having  performed  his  promise, 
and  therefore  determined  to  write  directly  to  the  Captain-General. 

In  conformity  with  this  decision,  Mr.  Shaler  addressed  a letter  to 
the  Captain-General,  in  the  Spanish  language,  expressing  his  surprise 
at  the  order  for  his  departure,  without  affording  him  the  supplies 
which  were  indispensable,  and  for  which  provision  had  been  made  by 
treaty.  “ Presuming  that  his  Excellency’s  intentions  had  been  miscon- 
ceived by  the  Governor,  he  had  ventured  to  disobey  the  order,  and 
to  remain  in  port  till  the  reception  of  his  Excellency’s  reply.  A 
prompt  and  very  polite  answer  to  the  letter  was  received,  granting  us 
permission  to  supply  ourselves  with  every  thing  we  desired  ; and, 
what  was  very  extraordinary,  giving  us  further  permission,  which  had 
not  been  asked,  of  selling  so  much  of  the  cargo  as  would  be  sufficient 
to  pay  for  the  supplies.  After  which,  he  desired  we  would  leave  the 
port  immediately ; and  added,  that  if  we  entered  any  other  port  on 
tne  coast,  we  should  be  treated  as  contrabandists. 

The  latter  paragraph  of  his  Excellency’s  letter,  evidently  conveyed 
a doubt,  in  his  mind,  whether  our  destination  and  the  object  of  out 


VALPARAISO. 


165 


voyage  was  wnat  v/o  had  stated  it  to  be.  But,  having  subjected 
jurselves  to  the  mot  .ideation  of  having  the  correctness  of  our  state- 
ment doubted,  there  seemed  to  be  no  other  remedy  than  patience  and 
forbearance.  At  any  rate,  our  embarrassments  were  more  entirely 
relieved  than  we  had  anticipated.  We  procured  our  provisions  and 
paid  for  them  in  manufactures,  and  were  engaged  in  settling  Our 
accounts,  preparatory  to  our  departure  on  the  morrow,  having  already 
exceeded  a month  since  our  arrival. 

But  we  were  unconscious  of  what  a day  would  bring  forth,  and 
entirely  unprepared  for  a train  of  unfortunate  events,  in  which  every 
American  in  port  was  more  or  less  involved.  It  appeared  that  a part 
of  the  cargo  of  the  ship  Hazard  consisted  of  muskets.  These  were 
demanded  by  the  Governor,  on  pretext  of  being  contraband  of  war, 
and  were  very  properly  refused  by  Captain  Rowan,  who  stated  to  the 
Governor  that  they  were  taken  on  board  at  a neutral  port,  that  they 
ivere  not  destined  to  any  port  of  the  enemies  of  Spain,  and  that  they 
did  not  come  under  the  sixteenth  article  of  the  treaty. 

During  our  stay  here  we  had  ascertained  that  the  actual  governor 
of  the  place  was,  with  his  family,  on  a visit  to  the  capital,  and  that 
the  person  with  whom  we  had  been  treating,  and  who  represented 
here  the  Majesty  of  Spain,  Don  Antonio  Francisco  Garcia  Carrasco, 
was  an  officer  of  inferior  grade,  acting  as  governor  during  the 
absence  of  his  superior.  Don  Antonio  was  about  sixty  years  of  age, 
of  pleasing  manners,  of  prepossessing  countenance,  and  apparently 
of  amiable  disposition;  but  of  no  decision  of  character,  of  contracted 
mind,  puffed  up  with  vanity,  and  confounded  at  the  audacity  that 
should  dare  refuse  compliance  with  an  order  given  in  the  name  of  his 
King  ; indeed,  in  his  person,  character,  and  capacities,  there  was  a 
striking  resemblance  to  the  portrait  drawn  by  Cervantes,  of  the  cele- 
brated Governor  of  Barrataria. 

The  pride  of  the  Governor  was  evidently  wounded  by  the  refusal 
of  Rowan  to  obey  his  demand  of  the  muskets  ; and  his  subsequent 
measures  to  obtain  them  were  calculated  to  exhibit  his  folly,  and  to 
increase  his  mortification  and  hostile  feelings.  To  suppose,  with  his 
feeble  means,  that  he  could  coerce  a compliance  with  his  demand 
was  to  suppose  the  American  to  be  as  great  a poltroon  as  himself. 
As  far,  however  as  the  attempt  could  prove  it,  he  oe 'tainly  did  expect 
to  do  so. 


if>6 


SECOND  VOYAGE. 


The  troops  of  the  garrison,  about  thirty  in  number,  with  drums 
beating,  and  colors  displayed,  were  seen  marching  from  the  castle  to 
the  sea  shore,  in  the  afternoon  of  the  day  on  which  the  muskets  had 
been  refused.  Rowan,  who  was  on  the  alert,  saw  them  embark  in  a 
large  launch,  accompanied  by  the  Governor,  and  prepared  himself 
for  resistance.  The  launch,  which  with  rowers  and  soldiers,  was 
excessively  crowded,  approached  the  Hazard  with  the  royal  colors 
flying.  When  within  hail  of  the  ship,  the  Governor  stood  up,  and 
demanded  if  he  might  come  on  board.  Rowan  replied,  that  he  should 
be  happy  to  be  honored  with  his  company,  but  that  he  would  not  per- 
mit any  one  of  his  soldiers  to  .come  on  board.  The  launch  approached 
nearer  to  the  ship,  to  enable  the  parties  to  converse  with  more  ease. 
The  Governor  again  formally  demanded  the  surrender  of  the  arms, 
and  was  again  refused.  He  remonstrated,  and  urged  the  conse- 
quences of  resisting  the  authority  of  the  King’s  representative.  But 
it  was  all  unavailing,  and  perceiving  that  neither  threats  nor  persua- 
sion had  the  desired  effect,  that  armed  sentries  were  stationed  at  the 
gangways  of  the  ship,  and  the  proper  precautions  taken  against  a 
coup  de  main , lie  returned  to  the  shore  with  his  soldiers,  deeply  mor- 
tified, excessively  irritated,  and  vowing  vengeance. 

But  it  is  not  unusual,  that  what  R done  in  the  moment  of  great 
excitement,  is  not  of  the  most  judicious  character,  and  that  by  suffer- 
ing ourselves  to  be  controlled  by  our  passions,  we  commit  acts  which 
increase  the  absurdity  of  a ridiculous  position,  and  augment  our 
embarrassments.  This  was  precisely  the  case  with  the  Governor,  in 
this  instance.  Without  adverting  to  consequences,  but  influenced  by 
the  violence  of  his  passion,  he,  immediately  on  landing,  ordered  every 
American  who  could  be  found  on  shore,  to  be  arrested  and  shut  up  in 
the  castle.  Shalpr,  Rouissillon,  and  myself,  being  of  this  number, 
were  accordingly  arrested,  and,  with  four  others  of  our  countrymen, 
were  marched  to  prison,  in  charge  of  a file  of  soldiers,  who,  by  their 
conversation  during  the  time,  evinced  that  their  feelings  were  in 
unison  with  those  of  the  Governor. 

At  the  same  time  with  the  order  for  our  arrest,  and  as  if  to  con- 
summate his  folly,  the  Governor  made  another  attempt  to  intimidate, 
by  ordering  the  captain  of  a large  Spanish  ship,  which  mounted 
eighteen  heavy  guns  betwixt  decks,  to  bring  his  broadside  to  bear  on 


ARREST  AND  IMPRISONMENT. 


167 


the  Hazard,  and  to  order  her  colors  to  be  hauled  down,  in  token  of 
submission,  on  penalty  of  being  sunk.  After  what  had  occurred,  to 
make  such  a threat,  without  daring  to  take  the  responsibility  of  exe- 
cuting it,  served  only  to  increase  the  awkwardness  of  the  Governor’s 
josition.  While  all,  both  on  shore,  and  on  board  the  shipping,  were 
watching  with  intense  interest  the  result  of  this  threat,  a man  was 
observed  on  board  the  Hazard,  engaged  in  nailing  the  colors 
to  the  mast.  A more  significant  reply  could  not  possibly  be 
made.  The  Governor  was  foiled;  and  a calm  succeeded  the  storm, 
during  the  time  required  to  despatch  a courier  to  the  Captain-General, 
and  to  receive  his  instructions  in  the  case. 

Our  arrest  prevented  our  sailing,  as  we  intended  to  do,  the  same 
evening.  Having  passed  a most  uncomfortable  night,  without  beds, 
in  the  castle,  where  we  were  annoyed  by  myriads  of  fleas,  and  hav- 
ing been  without  food  of  any  kind,  since  noon  of  the  preceding  day,  we 
wrote  to  the  Governor  in  the  morning,  requesting  to  be  provided  with 
food  and  beds.  Our  letter  was  returned  unopened  ; but,  about  noon, 
by  a verbal  message  from  the  Governor,  we  were  informed,  that 
liberty  was  given  us  to  go  on  board  our  respective  ships.  We  were 
doubtful  of  the  propriety  of  availing  ourselves  of  this  liberty,  so 
ungraciously  proffered,  till  an  apology  should  be  made  to  us  for  the 
aggression.  It  was  finally  settled,  that  Shaler,  being  the  most  impor- 
tant person,  as  master  of  the  vessel,  should  remain  in  prison.  We 
therefore  sent  to  him  a bed  and  provisions.  This  was  a determina- 
tion for  which  the  Governor  was  entirely  unprepared,  and  which 
seemed  to  confound  him.  With  characteristic  imbecility  h-e  went  to 
the  castle  ; and,  greeting  Mr.  Shaler  with  apparent  cordiality,  begged 
him  to  go  on  board  his  vessel,  and  proceed  to  sea.  This  Shaler 
offered  to  do,  on  condition  of  receiving  a written  apology  for  impris- 
oning us.  He  declined  giving  it.  Permission  was  then  asked  to 
send  an  express,  with  a letter,  to  the  Captain-General.  This  he  per- 
emptorily and  angrily  refused,  and  then  suddenly  started  off  to  super- 
intend the  preparations  which  he  was  making  to  compel  a surrender 
of  the  Hazard,  the  orders  for  which  he  expected  to  receive  the  next 
da\r. 

Although  the  ostensible  reason  for  refusing  a compliance  with  the 
Governor’s  order  to  go  to  sea,  was  to  obtain  satisfaction,  yet  the  real 


168 


SECOND  VOYAGE. 


cause  of  our  delay  was  the  hope  and  belief  of  being  able  to  render 
essential  service  in  aiding  to  extricate  Rowan  from  his  difficulties.  It 
was  evident,  that,  the  Governor  desired  only  the  sanction  of  the  Cap- 
tain-General, to  attempt  coercion  ; and,  in  expectation  of  receiving 
it,  he  was  making  the  requisite  preparations.  The  soldiers  of  the 
garrison  and  the  populace  were  busily  engaged,  under  the  direction 
of  the  Governor,  in  placing  cannon,  in  every  direction,  to  bear  on  the 
ship.  The  inhabitants  of  the  houses,  in  the  vicinity,  left  them,  and 
retired  to  the  hills.  The  activity  and  bustle  of  business  had  given 
place  to  the  preparation  and  excitement  of  war  ; and  the  confusion 
and  apprehension  could  hardly  have  been  exceeded,  if  the  town  had 
been  on  the  point  of  being  taken  by  assault. 

While  Mr.  Rouissillon  and  myself  were  walking  through  one  of 
the  streets,  we  encountered  the  Governor,  who  saluted  us,  and  asked 
me  if  I was  not  next  in  command  on  board  to  Mr.  Shaler.  Answer- 
ing in  the  affirmative,  he  ordered  me  to  go  on  board,  and  proceed  to 
sea.  On  my  rejoining,  that  I could  not  go  without  my  captain,  he 
threatened  to  seize  the  vessel,  and,  without  waiting  for  a reply,  left  us 
abruptly,  and  apparently  in  an  angry  mood.  In  the  course  of  the 
following  day,  being  the  fourth  from  the  beginning  of  hostilities,  the 
express  arrived  from  Santiago,  bringing  a letter  to  Captain  Rowan 
from  the  Captain-General.  It  contained  such  promises  of  redress,  if 
he  would  comply  with  the  requisitions  of  government,  by  delivering 
up  the  arms,  that  he  was  induced  to  yield.  The  arms  were  accord- 
ingly delivered  to  the  order  of  the  Governor,  and  his  receipts  taken 
for  them.  The  portentous  cloud,  which  had  been  lowering  over  the 
affairs  of  our  countrymen,  in  this  place,  appeared  to  be  now  dissipated. 
The  colors  of  defiance,  which  had  been  waving  on  the  ships  and  at 
the  castle,  from  the  beginning  of  the  dispute,  were  hauled  down  ; 
the  cannon,  which  had  been  transported  to  the  beach,  were  returned 
to  their  ancient  position  ; the  sentries  were  no  longer  seen  at  the 
gangways  of  the  Hazard  ; the  old  women  and  children  returned  to 
their  habitations ; and  every  thing  indicated  peace  and  repose. 

This  repose,  however,  was  only  the  treacherous  calm  that  precedes 
the  hurricane.  The  Governor  could  not  brook  the  indignity  he  had 
suffered.  The  vengeance  he  had  vowed,  and  which  he  had  not  the 
courage  to  take  openly,  he  determined  to  execute  treacherously  ; and 


TREACHERY  OF  THE  GOVERNOR. 


169 


hit  measures,  which  were  taken  with  great  secrecy,  and  with  the  stimu- 
lus of  plunder,  were  executed  with  such  success,  as  must  have  satis- 
fied his  highest  ambition,  and  served  as  a balm  to  his  wounded  feelings. 

On  the  evening  of  the  day,  when  the  muskets  were  surrendered, 
Mr.  Rouissillon  and  myself  made  a visit  to  the  Governor,  and  found 
him  to  be  as  affable  and  pleasant,  as  was  naturally  to  be  expected  on 
attaining  the  object,  of  which  he  had  so  long  been  in  pursuit.  He 
hoped  we  should  proceed  to  sea  the  next  day,  and  inquired  why 
Rowan  did  not  come  on  shore  ; adding,  to  our  surprise,  that  if  he  did 
not  come  voluntarily,  he  should  use  coercion.  We  assured  him  of 
our  belief  that  his  not  having  been  on  shore  that  day  was  accidental, 
and  not  from  any  apprehension  of  molestation,  begged  him  not  to 
think  of  coercion,  and  offered  our  guarantee  that  he  should  present 
himself  at  the  castle  in  the  morning.  On  leaving  the  Governor  we 
went  on  board  the  Hazard,  and  reported  to  Rowan  our  conversation 
with  the  Governor.  He  had  no  hesitation  in  determining  to  act  in 
accordance  with  his  desire,  by  visiting  him  as  early  as  it  was  permit- 
ted strangers  to  be  on  shore. 

Fearing,  in  this  instance,  a too  ready  compliance,  in  which  case 
the  opportunity  for  revenge  would  escape  him,  the  Governor  must 
have  had  every  thing  planned  and  prepared  in  the  evening,  probably 
while  we  were  with  him,  to  execute  his  cowardly  design  in  the  morn- 
ing, before  it  was  permitted  Rowan  focome  on  shore.  The  launches, 
which  were  used  to  transport  wheat  from  the  shore  to  the  large  ship 
before  mentioned,  passed  and  repassed  near  the  Hazard  while  thus 
engaged  ; consequently  they  would  excite  no  suspicion  when  approach- 
ing the  ship.  An  enterprise,  involving  so  little  risk,  and  which  prom- 
ised so  golden  a harvest  of  plunder,  had  not  to  wait  for  the  requisite 
number  of  men.  About  two  hundred  ruffians,  armed  with  pistols, 
swords,  and  knives,  embarked  in  the  launches  used  for  carrying  wheat, 
and  boarded  the  Hazard,  on  each  side,  while  her  men  were  entirely 
off  their  guard,  unsuspicious  of  any  cause  of  hostility.  To  save  their 
lives,  such  of  the  crew  as  were  able  made  a hasty  retreat  to  the  hold. 
But  there  were  two  poor  fellows  lying  sick  in  their  hammocks  ; and 
these  were  both  dangerously  wounded.  Rowan  was  screened  from 
the  vengeance  of  the  banditti  by  the  interference  of  an  officer,  taken 
immediately  on  shore,  and  sent  to  the  castle. 

15 


170 


SECOND  VOYAGE. 


The  scene  of  plunder  and  confusion  which  ensued,  beggars  all 
description.  Perceiving  that  the  mischief  was  likely  to  be  more 
extensive  than  he  had  imagined,  the  Governor  went  on  board,  with  a 
party  of  soidiers,  to  arrest  its  progress.  But  he  soon  discovered,  that 
it  is  easier  to  set  a mob  in  motion  than  to  control  it  afterwards.  With 
his  utmost  efforts,  aided  by  the  soldiers,  and  by  the  commandant  of 
the  custom-house  guards  and  his  satellites,  he  was  incapable  of  resist- 
ing the  progress  of  the  plunderers,  until,  being  satiated,  they  retreated 
with  their  booty  to  the  shore,  as  opportunity  offered.  When  there 
were  but  few  remaining,  he  succeeded  in  driving  them  away,  and 
placed  the  ship  in  charge  of  the  mates. 

After  such  an  achievement,  such  a gathering  of  laurels,  there  was 
some  hazard  toa  foreigner  in  calling  on  the  Governor,  even  though  it 
were  to  compliment  him.  But,  being  determined  that  the  Captain- 
General  should  have  our  version  of  the  transaction,  I called  on  him, 
at  noon,  for  leave  to  send  an  express  to  the  capital  to  complain  of 
the  outrage,  and  to  demand  that  redress  there,  which  we  asked  in 
vain  here.  In  an  angry  tone,  and  instead  of  replying  to  my  request, 
he  inquired,  if  we  were  desirous  of  provoking  him  to  serve  us  in  the 
manner  he  had  done  the  ship  ? I replied,  that  I hoped  there  was  no 
danger  of  our  causing  him  any  provocation,  but  should  it  be  our 
misfortune  to  do  so,  to  the  extent  intimated,  there  could  exist  no  cause 
for  such  violent  measures  as  had  been  used  towards  the  ship,  as  no 
resistance  would  be  made.  I then  remarked  on  the  advantage  that 
would  result  to  the  government  in  keeping  away  the  rabble,  and  thus 
securing  the  whole  property.  I stated,  also,  that  there  were  many 
valuable  instruments,  charts,  and  books,  on  board,  which  would  be 
useful  to  the  Spanish  marine,  but  which  might  be  destroyed,  if,  as  he 
suggested,  “ he  served  us  in  the  manner  he  had  done  the  ship  ; and 
I repeated  a hope  that  he  would  not  do  so.  Seeing  that  I was  not 
to  be  intimidated,  and  was  moreover,  determined  not  to  go  to  sea 
without  communicating  with  the  Captain-General,  he  at  length  reluct- 
antly consented  to  our  sending  an  express. 

We  had  reason  to  believe,  that,  if  we  could  obtain  permission  tc 
visit  Santiago,  we  should  there  be  able  to  make  a sale  of  our  cargo, 
deliverable  outside  the  port,  and  which,  at  cne  half  the  prices  curren- 


PREPARE  TO  DEPART. 


171 


in  the  city,  would  yield  us  a handsome  profit.  To  gain  an  additional 
number  of  days  in  port,  therefore,  in  the  hope  of  obtaining  leave  to 
proceed  to  the  capital,  or  of  meeting  some  person  from  there  desirous 
of  purchasing  the  cargo,  was  another  inducement  for  the  refusal  of 
Mr.  Shaler  to  leave  the  castle.  When,  therefore,  this  object  was 
attained  bv  opening  a correspondence  with  the  Captain-General,  he 
left  the  castle,  and  returned  on  board  the  Lelia  Byrd. 

The  letter  written  by  Mr.  Shaler  in  Spanish,  and  complaining  of 
the  outrageous  conduct  of  the  Governor,  to  the  unoffending  citizens 
of  a friendly  power,  was  sent  by  a courier.  It  produced  an  inter- 
change of  several  letters,  the  purport  of  which  was,  on  one  side,  to 
deny  the  right  of  any  foreign  vessel  to  traverse  these  seas,  which, 
his  Excellency  said,  like  the  territory,  belonged  exclusively  to  his 
Catholic  Majesty  ; on  the  other,  to  refute  the  absurd  doctrine  of  any 
nation's  possessing  an  exclusive  right  to  any  particular  sea,  and  giving 
chapter  and  verse  in  the  treaty,  not  only  for  our  right  to  sail  where 
we  please,  but  to  enter  their  ports  and  demand  succor.  His  Excel- 
lency closed  the  correspondence  by  expressing  a hope,  that  if  we  did 
not  admit  their  exclusive  right  to  these  seas,  we  would,  at  least,  allow 
them  to  be  masters  in  their  own  ports. 

It  being  now  verv  evident  that  we  should  not  succeed  in  obtaining 
leave  to  visit  Santiago,  and,  having  assisted  in  bringing  Rowan's 
affairs  into  such  a train  as  promised  a speedy  and  satisfactory  adjust- 
ment, there  existed  no  farther  inducement  to  remain  onger  in  port. 
Accordingly,  having  settled  our  various  accounts  of  lisburscments, 
Mr.  Shaler,  accompanied  by  Mr.  Rouissil Ion,  waited  on  the  Governor, 
to  notify  him  of  his  intention  to  proceed  to  sea  next  morning,  and  to 
take  leave.  He  received  them  with  great  cordiality,  expressed  much 
regret  at  what  had  occurred,  promised  to  remedy  the  mischief  as  far 
as  he  was  able,  offered  us  every  facility  in  his  power  to  insure  our 
departure  at  the  time  appointed,  and,  though  it  would  not  have  been 
surprising  if  he  had  wished  us  to  the  devil,  on  the  contrary,  wished 
us  a good  voyage. 

There  was  a number  of  our  unfortunate  countrymen  in  po,t, 
principally  the  crews  of  the  condemned  vessels,  who  had  lost  their 
little  all,  and  whose  situation  excited  commiseration.  We  a .ew 
that,  if  they  could  get  to  Masafuera  with  the  provisions  they  coul  i 


172 


SECOND  VOYAGE. 


obtain  here,  th..*y  would,  by  pursuing  their  vocation,  soon  bring  up 
arrears.  We  determined,  therefore,  to  go  so  far  out  of  our  way  as 
,o  give  them  all  passages  thither.  They  all  veiy  gratefully  accepted 
our  invitation.  Being  ready,  on  the  21st  of  April,  and  on  the  .point 
of  leaving  the  port,  a message  was  brought  from  the  Governor, 
requesting  to  see  Mr.  Shaler.  He  went  immediately  to  him,  and 
found,  to  his  astonishment,  that  he  wanted  him  to  defer  his  departure 
a few  days.  It  appeared  that  some  suspicious  or  malicious  person 
had  suggested  to  this  silly  governor,  that  our  object,  in  taking  so  many 
men  on  board,  was  to  capture  the  large  ship,  then  on  the  point  of 
sailing  for  Lima.  To  guard  against  this,  he  begged  Mr.  Shaler  to 
defer  sailing  till  forty-eight  hours  after  that  ship  had  sailed,  and 
moreover  hoped  we  would  not  revenge  ourselves  on  any  unarmed 
Spanish  vessel  we  might  chance  to  meet. 

In  acceding  to  the  Governor’s  solicitation,  we  felt  more  for  the 
disappointment  of  our  passengers,  than  for  any  inconvenience  to 
ourselves.  Three  or,  at  most,  four  days  would  soon  wear  away, 
when  we  should  be  off,  and  experience  once  more  the  blessings  of 
liberty  ; for  it  did  not  enter  our  imaginations  that  there  could  possibly 
exist  any  further  difficulty.  The  time  we  had  agreed  to  wait,  how- 
ever, had  not  quite  expired,  when  we  were  taken  all  aback  again.  It 
appeared  that  one  of  our  sailors,  an  Irishman,  who  had  deserted,  had 
given  information  that  we  had  many  kegs  of  dollars  on  board,  stowed 
under  the  ballast.  As  he  had  pointed  out  precisely  where  they  were, 
an  armed  force  came  on  board,  by  order  of  the  Governor,  and, 
proceeding  directly  to  the  place  indicated  by  the  sailor,  found,  instead 
of  kegs  of  dollars,  kegs  of  quicksilver,  of  which  they  look  away 
four,  giving  a receipt  for  them. 

We  flattered  ourselves  that  this  aggression  would  be  the  means  of 
opening  the  way  for  our  going  to  the  capital.  Renewing,  therefore, 
our  correspondence  with  the  Captain-General,  to  complain  of  this 
outrage,  and  remarking  on  our  entire  want  of  confidence  in  the 
capacity  or  honesty  of  the  Governor  and  his  advisers,  we  reiterated 
our  request  for  leave  to  repair  to  Santiago,  for  the  more  speedy 
adjustment  of  our  grievance.  In  reply,  his  Excellency  remarked  on 
the  loss  of  time  which  our  coming  to  Santiago  would  cause,  and 
observed  that  the  difficulty  could  be  easily  adjusted  at  Valparaiso,  by 


RETURN  OP  THE  CAPTAIN-GENERAL. 


173 


answering  satisfactorily  the  following  questions,  viz.  Why  was  the 
quicksilver  hid  len  under  the  ballast?  To  whom  does  it  belong? 
To  what  port  destined?  These  interrogatories,  being  solemnly 
propounded  bv  the  Governor  to  Mr.  Shaler,  a notary  public  being 
present,  he  replied  to  the  first,  that  it  was  not  hidden  ; to  the  second, 
that  it  belonged  to  the  owners  of  the  vessel  and  cargo  ; to  the  third, 
that  its  destination  was  round  the  world  ; and  to'  this  deposition  he 
took  an  oath  on  an  odd  volume  of  Shakspeare,  presented  him  by  the 
Governor  for  that  purpose. 

The  result  of  this  investigation  was  immediately  despatched  to  the 
Captain-General  ; and  an  answer  returned  by  his  Excellency  with 
the  least  possible  delay ; the  purport  of  which  was,  that  the  four  kegs 
of  quicksilver  should  be  restored  to  us  on  board,  and  that  we  should 
then  leave  the  port  without  further  delay.  We  were  now  surprised 
by  an  overture  from  I he  commandant  of  the  custom-house  guards,  to 
purchase  the  quicksilver.  He  proposed  to  us  a good  price,  and  to  take 
it  out,  and  bring  the  amount,  in  dollars,  on  board  himself.  The  sale, 
at  his  proposal,  would  have  been  a very  advantageous  one ; but  our 
experience  had  taught  us  to  beware  of  treachery  ; and,  imagining 
such  to  be  lurking  in  this  proposal,  we  declined  accepting  it.  During 
this  controversy,  the  men,  whom  we  intended  taking  to  Masafuera, 
had  dispersed  in  various  directions  ; so  that,  having  on  board  only 
our  original  small  complement  of  men,  the  authorities  had  no  cause 
to  apprehend  any  acts  of  piracy  from  us. 

The  functions  of  Don  Antonio,  as  Governor,  ad  interim , having 
ceased  on  the  arrival  of  his  senior  from  Santiago,  when  we  were  on 
the  point  of  sailing,  we  made  him  a visit  as  soon  after  his  arrival  as 
etiquette  would  permit.  He  gave  us  a most  cordial,  frank,  and 
friendly  reception,  and  expressed  much  regret  at  having  been  absent 
on  our  arrival  ; as,  lie  said,  not  only  would  the  trouble  we  had  expe- 
rienced have  been  avoided,  but  he  would  have  obtained  permission  for 
us  to  visit  Santiago.  The  order  for  our  departure,  however,  being 
now  given  by  the  Captain-General,  was  irrevocable,  and  he  therefore 
hoped  there  would  be  no  further  delay.  On  taking  leave,  he  inun- 
dated us  with  civilities  and  good  wishes,  promising,  moreover,  to  use 
his  best  endeavors  to  bring  the  affair  of  our  unfortunate  countryman, 
R.owar.,  to  a speedy  and  satisfactory  conclusion.  These  civilities, 
15* 


174 


SECOND  VOYAGE. 


professions,  and  promises,  passed  with  us  for  no  more  than  they  were 
worth,  after  the  observations  our  opportunities  had  afforded  us,  of 
judging  of  the  character,  and  motives  of  action,  of  the  authorities 
here. 

It  was  now  the  6th  day  of  May,  being  two  and  a half  months  from 
the  date  of  our  arrival  ; a long  time,  considering  that  we  were  allowed 
only  twenty-four  hours  by  the  Captain-General,  to  remain  in  port; 
and  for  the  third  time  had  settled  our  accounts,  and  made  all  ready 
for  our  departure.  No  further  obstacle  to  our  sailing  occurring,  and 
having  taken  leave  of  our  acquaintance  and  countrymen,  we  left 
Valparaiso,  to  the  great  satisfaction  of  the  Governor  and  authorities, 
no  less  than  of  ourselves. 

During  our  sojourn  at  Valparaiso,  we  had  become  acquainted  with, 
and  were  in  the  habit  of  visiting  on  familiar  terms,  several  interesting 
native  families ; for  the  native  inhabitants  sympathized  with  us,  and 
condemned  the  unfriendly  course  manifested  towards  us  by  their 
rulers.  They  seemed,  generally,  to  be  awakening  to  a sense  of  the 
abject  state  of  vassalage  in  which  they  were  held  by  their  European 
masters  ; the  posts  of  honor  and  profit  being  exclusively  in  possession 
of  Europeans,  to  the  great  annoyance  of  the  Creoles.  Bursts  of 
indignation,  at  these  and  other  grievances  connected  with  them  would 
sometimes  escape  them,  which  were  generally  accompanied  with  a 
hope  that  the  period  of  emancipation  was  not  very  distant. 

Such  sentiments  were  met  by  us  with  corresponding  ones,  by 
drawing  a parallel  between  their  country  and  ours,  while  each  was 
under  a colonial  system  of  government,  by  adverting  to  the  greater 
physical  means  in  their  possession  to  enable  them  to  throw  off  the  yoke, 
than  was  possessed  by  the  Anglo-Americans,  in  the  beginning  of 
their  Revolution,  by  demonstrating  to  them  the  greatly  increased  value 
of  the  products  of  their  soil,  and  the  diminished  prices  at  which  they 
would  receive  the  manufactures  of  Europe,  when  their  commerce 
should  be  freed  from  the  shackles  to  which  tyranny  and  folly  had  so 
long  subjected  it ; and  finally,  by  remarking  on  the  paralyzing  and 
debasing  effects  on  the  mind,  which  are  inseparable  from  a protracted 
state  of  dependence  and  vassalage.  For  the  better  promotion  of  the 
embrvo  cause,  we  gave  them  a copy  of  our  Federal  Constitution  and 
a translation  into  Spanish,  of  our  Declaration  of  Independence. 


VALPARAISO. 


175 


Valparaiso  probably  is  indebted  for  its  name  to  its  romantic 
scenery  and  to  the  salubrity  of  its  climate,  for  in  no  other  respect 
does  it  deserve  the  appellation.*  Between  the  base  of  the  hills  and 
the  sea,  there  is  a street  of  moderate  breadth,  which  is  bounded  on 
the  west  by  high  and  precipitous  hil.s;  and  on  the  east,  is  continued 
to  the  adjoining  village  of  Almendrale.  In  this  street  are  the  best 
houses ; some  of  which  are  two  stories  high,  of  brick  plastered,  and 
of  ordinary  structure  and  appearance.  Crossing  this  street  at  right 
angles,  are  others  in  the  deep  chasm  between  the  hills,  which  soon 
cease  to  he  streets,  and  become  crooked  and  narrow  paths,  leading  up 
on  either  side  the  hills,  to  cottages  and  huts  of  very  mean  appearance. 
The  church,  which  is  a very  ordinary  structure,  is  situated  on  an 
elevation  on  one  of  the  cross  streets,  and  near  the  centre  of  the  town. 
The  castle,  including  the  Governor’s  residence,  fronts  on  the  bay,  and 
is  a dilapidated  enclosure,  unworthy  of  the  name. 

The  bay  of  Valparaiso  is  spacious,  and  being  sheltered  from  the 
south  winds,  which  prevail  during  seven  months  of  the  year,  from 
October  to  May,  is  very  smooth  and  safe  riding  for  ships  during  that 
season.  At  the  season  when  the  north  winds  prevail,  from  May  to 
October,  it  is  dangerous  lying  there,  as  there  is  no  shelter  from  this 
wind,  and  its  usual  accompaniment,  a rough  sea,  which  sometimes 
comes  in  with  a force  and  impetuosity  that  cannot  be  resisted,  even 
with  the  best  ground-tackle.  It  is  the  nearest  seaport  to  Santiago, 
the  capital  of  Chili;  and  hence  derives  an  importance,  which  it 
possesses  not  intrinsically. 

The  native  inhabitants  are  generally  amiable,  hospitable,  indolent, 
and  ignorant.  It  seems  as  if  it  were  the  policy  of  the  existing 
government  to  discourage  industry  by  the  trammels  to  which  the 
commerce  of  the  country  is  subjected.  If  a greater  quantity  of 
wheat,  or  other  perishable  commodity  is  raised,  than  can  find  vent 
through  the  narrow  channels  that  are  open,  it  is  lost  to  the  cultivator  ; 
and  copper,  the  other  staple  product  of  Chili,  is,  by  the  same 
governmental  restrictions  on  commerce,  kept  at  a price  not  exceeding 
half  its  value.  The  government,  alsvj,  and  particularly  the  ecclesi- 
astical part  of  it,  are  sensible  that  their  power  rests  on  the  ignorance 


* Val-Paraiso,  Valley  of  Paradise. 


176 


SECOND  VOYAGE. 


of  the  people  ; hence  the  excessive  dread  of  the  introduction  of  all 
books  ; the  watchfulness  of  the  priests  to  guard  their  flocks  against 
possessing  any  volume  which  they  have  not  seen  and  approved,  as 
well  as  against  the  contaminating  influence  and  opinions  of  foreign 
heretics.  The  care,  anxiety,  and  efforts  made  by  them,  to  suppress 
all  means  of  information,  do  not,  however,  pass  unobserved  by  many 
of  the  most  sensible  Creoles,  who  seem  to  be  waking  up  to  a sense 
of  their  degradation.  With  these  the  seed  is  planted,  which,  in  due 
time,  may  be  expected  to  bring  forth  abundant  fruit. 


CHAPTER  XIV. 


Arrive  at  the  Gallipngos  Islands — Transactions  there — Departure  — Singular  Flaw 
of  Wind  — Arrival  at  San  Bias  — Visited  by  the  Commissary  — Agreement  with 
him — Opposed  by  the  Governor — Character  of  the  Governor — Controversy 
between  the  Governor  and  Commissary  — Order  to  leave  San  Bias  — Arrangement 
with  Rouissillon  — He  leaves  us  for  Mexico  — Go  to  the  Three  Maria  Islands  — Em- 
barrassment— Letter  from  Rouissillon  — Death  of  the  Governor  — Catch  a Sun 
Fish — Description  of  Three  Marias — Return  again  to  San  Bias — Proposal  for  the 
Cargo  — Return  of  Rouissillon — Sale  of  Part  of  the  Cargo  — Purchase  Sea  Otters’ 
Skins — Suspicion  of  Treachery — Take  final  Leave  of  Rouissillon  — His  Character 
— Death  — Again  anchor  at  the  Three  Marias  — Discover  a Traitor  in  the  Mate  — 
Seize  his  Papers  — Remarks  thereon. 


5®til  long  detention,  and  unfortunate  controversy 
at  Valparaiso,  operated  unfavorably  to  our  pros- 
pects, as  our  vessel,  ourselves,  and  the  disturban- 
|ces  we  had  caused,  had  become  known,  not  only 
to  the  government  officers,  but  to  almost  the  whole 
population  of  the  various  ports  of  Chili  and  Peru, 
included  between  Valparaiso  and  Lima.  To  enter, 
therefore,  any  other  port  between  those  limits,  or 
to  be  captured  in  the  neighborhood  of  anyvoneof  them, 
would  subject  us  to  the  risk  of  confiscation.  It  w^as, 
consequently,  judged  to  be  most  prudent  to  proceed  to 
some  place  so  distant  from  the  scene  of  our  late  trans- 
actions, that  the  knowledge  of  them  could  not  have  pre- 
ceded us.  This  object  would,  doubtless,  be  realized  in 
any  of  the  ports  of  the  Vice-Royalty  of  Mexico;  and, 
from  various  sources  of  information,  we  were  induced  to 
believe  that  San  Bias  offered  the  greatest  facilities  for  the  disposal  of 
our  cargo,  with  the  least  risk  attending  it.  To  San  Bias,  therefore, 
we  determined  to  proceed,  touching  on  our  way,  at  the  Gallipagos 
Islands. 


178 


SECOND  VOYAGE. 


In  conformity  with  this  determination,  we  shaped  our  course,  and 
having  none  other  than  the  favorable  winds,  delightful  weather,  and 
smooth  sea,  which  are  peculiar  to  this  region,  we  arrived  and  anchored 
at  the  bottom  of  a spacious  bay  at  Albemarle  Island,  on  the  30th  of 
May,  at  about  a mile  distant  from  the  shore,  and  opposite  the  beach 
of  black  sand.  Here  we  passed  a week  very  agreeably  in  rambling 
about  the  island  ; and  in  the  enjoyment  of  a freedom  of  action  and  of 
will,  the  more  highly  prized  and  enjoyed,  from  the  restraint  to  which 
we  had  been,  of  late,  so  much  subjected  ; and  not  unlike  what  the 
school-boy  feels  when  emancipated  from  the  control  of  the  master. 
The  fish  were  so  abundant,  at  our  anchorage,  that  no  skill  was  requir- 
ed in  taking  them.  As  many  hooks  as  were  lowered  and  baited, 
would  bring  up  fish,  and  this  as  fast  as  we  could  haul  them  in;  so 
that  beside  having  abundance  for  the  immediate  use  of  all,  we  salted 
a barrel  full  for  consumption  on  the  passage.  In  size,  texture,  and 
flavor,  they  had  a great  affinity  to  the  cod.  The  turtles  are  very 
abundant  and  taken  with  great  ease.  We  took  on  board  as  many  as 
there  was  a prospect  of  our  being  able  to  consume.  Guanos  of  vari- 
ous sizes  and  colors,  are  exceedingly  numerous  here.  They  are 
said  to  be  as  delicate  and  agreeable  food  as  the  chicken  ; but  the 
ship’s  company  had  the  same  antipathy  to  them,  which  is  so  univer- 
sal with  regard  to  snakes  ; and  while  they  had  such  a bountiful  supply 
of  fine  fish  and  turtle,  they  had  no  disposition  to  try  the  guano.  We 
traversed  various  parts  of  the  island,  and  camped  out  one  night,  in 
search  of  water,  but  found  none,  though  there  were  evidences  of  its 
being  abundant  at  some  seasons  of  the  year. 

Having  satisfactorily  accomplished  the  object  of  our  visit,  we  sailed 
on  the  8th  of  June  for  San  Bias.  While  yet  but  a few  miles  from 
Albemarle  Island,  and  going  with  a moderate  breeze,  during  the  first 
watch,  the  weather  clear  and  the  sea  smooth,  we  experienced  a very 
singular  flaw  of  wind,  which,  without  any  warning,  and  without  being 
felt  on  deck,  or  by  the  sails  on  the  mainmast,  carried  the  fore-topmast 
over  the  side,  after  which  it  became  calm,  and  so  continued  for  more 
than  two  hours. 

In  a few  days  after  leaving  the  island,  we  came  in  sight  of  the 
coast,  in  the  vicinity  of  Acapulco,  and  from  that  time,  having  delight- 
ful weather,  we  kept  the  land  in  sight  every  day,  til  our  arrival  in 


SAN  BLAS. 


179 


?;,b  lay  of  San  Bias,  on  the  11th  of  July.  It  is  very  remarkable, 
ami  str;>ngly  indicative  of  the  low  state  of  the  Spanish  commerce  in 
these  »eas,  at  this  period,  that,  from  the  time  of  our  departure  from 
Valparaiso,  to  that  of  our  arrival  here,  and  sailing  all  the  time  not 
very  distant  from  the  most  beautiful  coast  to  navigate  in  the;  world, 
we  did  not  meet  or  see  a vessel  of  any  description. 

Our  reception  at  San  Bias  formed  a contrast  to  that  experienced  on 
arriving  at  Valparaiso.  A friendly  welcome  from  those  in  authority, 
and  encouragement  to  expect  that  our  wants  would  be  supplied  ; and 
though  this  welcome  was  from  subalterns,  and  might  not  be  sanc- 
tioned by  their  superiors,  it  was,  nevertheless,  viewed  by  us  as  a 
favorable  omen.  At  this  season  of  the  year,  San  Bias  is  a very 
unhealthy  residence  ; and,  in  consequence,  it  is  the  practice  of  the 
Governor,’ the  Commissary  of  the  Arsenal,  and  the  most  opulent  of 
the  inhabitants  to  reside  at  Tipec,  a healthy  and  pleasant  town,  about 
twenty  leagues  distant,  in  the  interior.  Notice  of  our  arrival  having 
been  sent  to  them,  the  Commissary  came  down  immediately  ; and  on 
a first  interview  with  him,  we  had  much  reason  to  flatter  ourselves  that 
the  current  of  our  affairs  would  meet  with  less  obstruction,  than  we 
had  hitherto  experienced.  There  was  no  hesitation  on  his  part  in 
engaging  to  supply  us  with  every  thing  our  necessities  required  ; and 
ascertaining  we  had  some  boxes  of  tin  plate,  which  was  exceedingly 
wanted,  he  engaged  to  take  these  in  payment,  at  a very  great  advance 
on  its  cost.  This  arrangement  being  made  with  the  Commissary, 
required  the  sanction  of  the  Governor  before  it  could  be  carried  into 
effect. 

Our  friend  Rouissillon,  being  very  desirous  of  visiting  Mexico,  was 
determined,  on  this  account,  no  less  than  from  the  desire  of  obtaining 
permission  from  the  Viceroy  to  dispose  of  our  cargo  here,  to  leave 
no  effort  untried  to  obtain  the  requisite  passport.  With  this  view,  he 
accompanied  the  Commissary  to  Tipec,  on  his  return  thither.  By  a 
letter  from  him,  dated  a few  days  after  his  arrival,  wre  had  cause  to 
apprehend  that  obstacles  to  our  success  would  be  in  no  degree  less 
than  those  we  had  experienced  at  Valparaiso.  The  Governor,  he 
represented,  to  be  a proud,  vain,  and  very  passionate  man,  unaccus- 
tomed to  any  opposition  to  his  will,  and  indignant  that  the  Commissary 
should  have  presumed  to  enter  into  any  engagement  with  us  without 


180 


SECOND  VOYAGE. 


first  consulting  him.  Me  had,  therefore,  refused  to  confirm  the 
doings  of  the  Commissary,  positively  forbidden  the  landing  of  tho  tin 
and  decided  that  our  supplies  must  be  paid  for  by  a draft  on  the 
American  ambassador  at  Madrid. 

We  had  now  been  the  means  of  placing  in  hostile  attitudes  the  two 
great  officers  of  the  government.  The  Commissary,  whose  appoint- 
ment emanated  from  the  same  source  as  that  of  the  Governor’s,  and 
whose  line  of  duty  was  distinct  and  independent  of  him,  was  exceed- 
ingly mortified  and  piqued,  at  the  attitude  in  which  he  was  placed, 
and  seemed  determined  not  to  submit  to  it.  The  Governor,  who 
could  not  brook  opposition  to  his  will,  was  incapable  of  concealing 
his  wrath  ; hence  the  quarrel  became  known,  and  was  soon  the  all- 
absorbing  topic  of  the  inhabitants  of  Tipec.  The  feelings  of  the 
community  became  enlisted  on  one  side  or  the  other;  but  the  prepon- 
derance was  as  greatly  on  the  side  of  the  Commissary,  as  the  native 
population  exceeded  the  foreign.  Such  general  excitement,  however, 
as  this  little  affair  had  caused,  was  never  before  known  in  this  hitherto 
quiet  and  dull  town.  An  unfortunate  lieutenant  in  the  army,  who 
had  the  temerity  to  say  a word  in  disapprobation  of  the  course  of  the 
Governor,  was  immediately  ordered  under  arrest. 

While  the  chiefs  and  populace  of  Tipec  were  engaged  in  an  angry 
controversy  on  our  account,  we  had  passed  a week,  free  from  annoy- 
ance, at  San  Bias  ; where  we  had  procured  a new  topmast,  filled  our 
water-casks,  and  obtained  all  the  supplies  we  had  asked.  But  it 
became  very  evident  that  the  rancorous  hostility  of  the  Governor  would 
effectually  prevent  the  disposal  of  any  part  of  our  cargo,  notwith- 
standing the  aid  which  the  Commissary  was  disposed  to  give  us. 
Indeed,  without  any  reference  to  payment,  and  at  the  same  time  with 
the  receipt  of  the  supplies,  v/as  received  an  order  for  our  immedi- 
ately leaving  the  port,  accompanied  with  a threat,  in  case  of  disobe- 
dience, of  ordering  out  the  gun-boats  to  drive  us  away.  The  possi- 
bility of  such  an  event  had  been  anticipated,  and  its  injurious  effects 
guarded  against,  by  an  understanding  with  Rouissillon,  that  we  should 
go  to  the  Three  Maria  Islands,  which  are  about  sixty  miles  distant, 
and  there  remain  until  his  return  from  Mexico,  for  which  city  he  was 
in  momentary  expectation  of  receiving  a passport,  and  where,  he 
bad  great  encouragement  to  believe,  he  should  obtain  permission  tc 


ANCHOR  LOST. 


181 


dispose  of  our  cargo,  or  at  least  of  some  part  of  it.  Of  the  result  of 
his  negotiation,  he  would  inform  us  by  a boat,  which  should  be  des- 
patched to  the  Islands,  immediately  on  his  return  to  San  Bias,  which 
was  supposed  would  be  in  the  course  of  six  or  eight  weeks. 

There  being  no  further  cause  for  remaining  here,  we  readily 
obeyed  the  order  of  the  Governor,  without  putting  him  to  the  trouble 
of  enforcing  it;  and,  having  signed  duplicate  receipts  for  the  amount 
of  our  supplies,  we  sailed,  in  the  evening  of  the  1st  of  August,  as 
soon  as  the  land  breeze  came  off.  The  next  day  we  anchored  in  a 
beautiful,  smooth,  sandy  bay,  on  the  north  side  of  the  middle  island, 
at  about  two  cables1  length  from  the  shore,  and  perfectly  secure  from 
the  violence  of  the  southeast  winds,  which,  at  this  season  of  the  year, 
blow  occasionally  with  great  force.  Here  we  again  enjoyed  the 
great  pleasure  of  uncontrolled  action  ; and  here,  without  molestation, 
we  improved  the  opportunity  of  overhauling  the  rigging,  repairing 
the  sails,  brushing  up  the  vessel,  and  procuring  a good  supply  of 
fuel,  which  was  very  abundant,  of  good  quality,  and  obtained  with 
great  ease.  In  the  performance  of  these  neeessarv  labors,  with 
alternate  periods  of  recreation  on  shore,  we  had  consumed  five 
weeks  ; and  then,  desirous  of  changing  the  scene,  we  visited  the 
northern  island  of  the  group,  and  found  as  good  anchorage  in  a bay, 
on  the  eastern  side  of  this  island,  as  that  we  had  just  left.  After 
passing  nearly  a week  at  this  beautiful  island,  we  returned  to  our 
former  anchorage,  at  the  middle  island,  in  the  hope  and  expectation 
of  seeing  the  messenger  from  Rouissillon  the  following  week.  But 
the  following,  and  even  the  tenth  week,  since  leaving  San  Bias,  passed 
away  ; and  the  messenger  failed  to  make  his  appearance. 

We  made  excursions  on  shore,  every  day,  for  the  advantage  of 
exercise  and  recreation,  and  frequently  permitted  the  crew  to  do  the 
same,  one  half  at  a time.  Tire  underwood  formed  an  impassable 
barrier,  which  prevented  our  penetrating  to  the  interior  in  any  other 
way  than  by  the  gullies,  which  had  been  made  by  the  rains.  It  was 
unusual  for  my  friend  Shaler  and  myself  to  leave  the  vessel  at  the 
same  time,  because  we  had  not  much  confidence  in  the  mate  ; but 
occasionally,  this  precaution  was  neglected.  On  one  of  those  days, 
when  we  were  on  shore  together,  we  were  astonished,  in  emerging 
from  the  woods,  to  perceive  our  ship,  under  sail,  a long  way  to  lee 
16 


182 


SECOND  VOYAGE. 


ward,  and  standing  ott  to  sea.  Although  the  wind  blew  strong,  yet  it 
was  off  shore  ; consequently,  the  water  was  smooth,  and  there  was  no 
reason  tosuppose  the  cable  had  parted.  The  idea,  therefore,  suggested 
itself  to  our  minds,  simultaneously,  that  the  mate  was  going  off  with 
the  ship.  With  such  an  impression,  on  a desert  island,  without  a 
boat,  without  provisions,  and  destitute  of  a change  of  clothing,  our 
situation  may  easily  be  imagined  to  have  been  a forlorn  one.  Watch- 
ing, therefore,  with  intense  interest,  in  the  hope  of' seeing  the  ship 
tack,  and  perceiving  that  she  kept  on  her  course  seaward,  until  her 
hull  was  scarcely  discernible,  we  began  to  believe  in  the  correctness 
of  our  first  impressions,  and  to  despair  of  again  controlling  the  destiny 
of  the  Lelia  Byrd,  when  we  had  the  great  satisfaction  of  seeing  her 
wear  round,  and  stand  in  for  the  anchorage.  In  about  six  hours  from 
the  time. of  parting  the  cable,  she  again  cast  anchor  in  the  bay,  and 
we  were  rejoiced  to  find  our  suspicions  misplaced.  It  appeared  that 
the  anchorage  was  less  clear  than  we  had  supposed,  and  that  the 
cable  bad  been  chafed  off. 

Such  a protracted  state  of  suspense  and  uncertainty  had  become 
extremely  irksome  and  embarrassing.  With  the  great  loss  of  time 
and  consequent  expense,  our  provisions  and  stores  were  daily  dimin- 
ishing, without  our  perceiving  how  or  where  they  could  be  replaced. 
It  had  become  therefore  indispensable,  that  a decision  should  not  be 
delayed,  as  to  our  next  move  ; and  the  choice  was  presented,  of 
going  away  without  hearing  from  Rouissillon,  or  of  risking  the  effect 
of  the  Governor’s  hostility,  by  again  entering  the  roadstead  of  San 
Bias.  The  latter  appearing  to  us  to  be  the  least  of  the  two  difficulties, 
when  viewed  as  connected  with  the  disposal  of  our  cargo,  we  acted  in 
conformity.  Our  advances,  when  nearing  the  port,  were  made  with 
caution  ; and  every  preparation  was  made  to  repel  any  force  that 
might  be  sent  to  molest  us.  In  the  afternoon  of  the  14th  day  of 
October,  being  nearly  up  with  the  remarkable  rock  at  the  western 
entrance  of  the  bay  of  San  Bias,  it  was  considered  to  be  most  pruden* 
not  to  anchor.  We  therefore  lay  by  all  night  in  sight  of  the  town, 
using  all  requisite  caution  against  being  taken  by  surprise. 

Early  the  following  morning,  we  perceived  a canoe  approaching  us 
paddled  by  Indians  ; and,  soon  after,  they  were  alongside,  and  handed 
us  the  long  expected  letter  from  Rouissillon.  It  was  dated  at  Guada- 


LETTER  FROM  ROUISS1LLON. 


183 


laxara,  on  his  way  to  Mexico;  and  its  contents  were  of  the  most 
encouraging  character.  He  had  been  treated  with  great  kindness 
and  hospitality  by  many  of  the  most  respectable  inhabitants  of  the 
place,  whence  his  letter  was  dated.  He  had  received  a very  civil 
letter  from  the  Viceroy,  accompanied  with  a passport  for  the  capital, 
and  a permission  to  sell,  at  San  Bias,  a sufficient  amount  of  the  cargo 
to  pay  for  the  supplies  with  which  we  had  been  provided,  and 
expressed  a confidence  of  success  in  obtaining  permission  to  sell  the 
whole  cargo,  and  to  return  to  San  Bias,  in  the  course  of  a week  or 
ten  days.  This  was,  indeed,  intelligence  of  a very  exhilarating  char- 
acter, and  tended  to  annihilate  those  forebodings  of  failure,  for  which 
before  the  receipt  of  this  letter,  there  was  but  too  great  cause.  Among 
other  items,  Rouissillon  informed  us,  that,  in  consequence  of  the  com- 
bined representation  of  the  Commissary  and  himself,  backed  by 
several  of  the  most  respectable  people  of  Tipec,  of  the  very  uncivil 
and  rude  treatment  of  the  Governor,  towards  citizens  of  a power  in 
amity  with  Spain,  he  had  been  reprimanded  by  the  Viceroy.  Being 
in  feeble  health,  this  circumstance,  combined  with  the  vexation  pro- 
duced by  perceiving  himself  to  be  out-generalled  by  the  Commissary, 
acting  upon  an  exceedingly  irritable  temperament,  had  produced  a 
fever,  which  terminated  his  existence,  about  a week  previous  to  the 
date  of  the  letter. 

Having  despatched  the  Indians  with  a reply  to  Rouissillon’s  letter, 
we  again  returned  to  our  old  anchorage  at  the  northern  island  ; for, 
notwithstanding  there  was  now  no  longer  any  danger  in  lying  at 
anchor  near  San  Bias,  yet,  as  the  regulations  made  it  imperative  that 
we  should  receive  a guard  on  board  while  there,  it  was  considered  to 
be  worth  all  the  trouble  of  going  to  the  islands,  if  only  to  be  emanci- 
pated from  this  incumbrance.  Our  excursions  over  them  had  been 
so  often  repeated,  that  there  seemed  to  be  no  other  inducement  to 
penetrate  into  their  woods  than  a desire  for  exercise.  A deviation 
from  the  general  monotony  of  our  situation  occurred,  one  day,  in  the 
taking  of  an  enormous  fish.  A school  of  them  had  been,  several 
hours,  gambolling  about  the  bay,  sometimes  throwing  themselves 
wholly  out  of  the  water,  and  coming  down  into  it  again  with  a splash 
and  foam,  which  might  be  heard  at  the  distance  of  a mile.  As  they 
approached  our  anchorage,  the  mate  and  two  men  went  in  the  jolly 


184 


SECOND  VOYAGE. 


boat,  and  succeeded  in  throwing  the  harpoon  into  one  of  them.  The 
monster,  feeling  the  wound,  darted  off,  seaward,  like  a shot.  As 
soon  as  he  had  taken  off  about  twenty  fathoms  of  whale  line,  the  end 
of  which  was  made  fast  to  the  boat,  he  carried  off  the  boat  with  such 
prodigious  velocity,  that  it  was  only  by  good  steering,  and  keeping 
her  in  a direct  line  with  his  course,  that  she  was  prevented  from 
swamping.  It  was  an  amusing  spectacle  to  see  the  boat  going  off 
with  such  great  rapidity,  and  for  such  a distance,  without  perceiving 
the  propelling  power.  At  length,  after  having  run  about  a mile,  he 
became  exhausted  ; and  the  men  in  the  boat  hauled  in  the  line,  until 
they  came  up  with  him,  when  they  contrived  to  get  his  head  towards 
the  island  ; and  after  a moment,  as  it  were  to  breathe,  he  returned 
with  almost  equal  velocity.  When  near  the  island,  they  hauled  up  to 
him,  and,  by  beating  him  with  the  oars,  drove  him  on  shore.  He 
was  supposed  to  be  a sunfish,  in  shape  not  unlike  a flounder,  and 
weighed  seven  or  eight  hundred  pounds. 

The  beautiful  group  of  islands,  called,  from  their  number, the  Three 
Marias,  where  we  had  passed  so  many  weeks,  presents  to  the  view, 
from  the  shore  to  their  summits,  a thicket  of  trees  and  underwood  of 
the  most  luxuriant  verdure.  So  strongly  interlaced  is  this  underwood, 
that  it  is  impenetrable  ; and  it  is  only  through  the  deep  ravines  made 
by  the  rains,  that  any  part  of  the  interior  can  be  reached.  These 
islands  abound  with  rabbits,  raccoons,  turtles,  wild  pigeons,  parrots, 
parroquets,  and  various  kinds  of  beautiful  small  birds.  Wood  suit- 
able for  fuel  is  procurable  in  any  quantity,  with  moderate  labor. 
Among  the  hard  woods,  lignumvitse  is  very  abundant.  Water  is 
procurable  only  at  the  issue  of  the  ravines,  after  a considerable 
rain,  excepting  at  the  eastern  side  of  the  northern  island,  where 
there  is  a well,  which  never  failed  to  yield  us  an  abundant  supply. 

The  time  agreed  upon  for  our  return  to  San  Bias  having  arrived, 
we  again  proceeded  thither,  and  anchored  in  the  roads,  on  the  20th 
of  October.  The  usual  guard  were  immediately  sent  on  board,  the 
sergeant  of  which  was  the  bearer  of  a polite  note  from  the  Comman- 
dant of  the  Resguardo,  desiring  to  be  informed  of  the  object  of  oui 
return.  A visit  from  him,  almost  simultaneously,  superseded  the 
necessity  of  a reply,  as  he  immediately  acknowledged  it  to  be  only  a 
piece  of  necessary  formality  without  meaning.  There  was  a general 


RETURN  OF  ROUISSILLON. 


185 


freedom  and  ease  observable  in  his  manner,  which  formed  a contrast 
with  that  manifested  at  our  previous  visit ; from  which  we  inferred 
that  the  new  Governor  was  of  a character  less  severe  and  exacting  than 
his  predecessor,  and,  consequently,  that  we  might  indulge  a hope  of 
being  permitted  to  proceed  in  the  accomplishment  of  our  business, 
without  encountering  any  new  obstacles. 

By  a letter  from  Rouissillon,  dated  at  Mexico,  we  found  that  there 
was  cause  to  apprehend  that  he  had  been  too  sanguine  of  success. 
His  memorial  to  the  Viceroy  had  not  produced  the  desired  effect ; 
and  an  order,  that  the  Governor  should  demand  of  us  a list  of  the 
stores  which  we  needed,  and  that,  as  soon  as  they  were  supplied,  we 
should  leave  the  port,  presented  but  discouraging  prospects  for  the 
result  of  his  efforts  at  Mexico.  In  reply  to  the  Governor,  we 
expressed  regret  at  our  inability  to  specify  the  quantity  of  the  stores 
required,  from  not  having  been  informed  by  Mr.  Rouissillon  for  what 
destination  he  intended  the  ship.  Delay  was  our  object,  while  any 
chance  of  success  presented  itself ; and  before  we  could  act  on  the 
Governor’s  letter,  we  had  the  pleasure  of  learning  from  our  friend, 
that  a second  memorial,  accompanied  by  a judicious  application  of  a 
small  douceur , had  been  the  means  of  obtaining  leave  for  the  disposal  of 
goods  to  the  amount  of  ten  thousand  dollars.  At  the  same  time,  it 
was  intimated,  that,  by  agreeing  to  sell  the  cargo,  at  a trifling  advance 
on  the  invoice,  and  to  particular  persons,  a permission  might  be 
obtained  to  dispose  of  the  whole  ; i.  e.  that  if  we  would  consent  to 
give  up  the  profit  we  were  seeking  to  those  who  had  influence  with 
government,  they  would  obtain  the  requisite  permission.  Rouissillon, 
however,  declined  the  proposal,  justly  concluding  that,  with  the  above 
permission,  as  great  an  amount  of  profit  might  be  made  on  one  half 
the  invoice,  as  the  whole  would  produce  by  acceding  to  it. 

On  his  return  from  Mexico,  Mr.  Rouissillon  passed  a fortnight  at 
Tipec,  endeavoring  to  find  purchasers  for  the  cargo,  but  without  suc- 
cess. He  arrived  at  San  Bias  on  the  10th  of  December,  and  the 
next  day  we  opened  our  sale  ; but  unfortunately  for  us  the  permis- 
sion was  so  limited  that  the  merchants  of  Guadalaxara  did  not  con- 
sider it  an  object  sufficiently  great  to  induce  them  to  come  on;  those 
of  Tipec  were  very  inconsiderable  in  number  and  means,  and  con- 
sequently the  sale  advanced  heavily. 

16* 


186 


SECOND  VOYAGE. 


We  had  now  reached  the  twelfth  day  of  the  new  year  (1803),  and 
the  prospects  of  a favorable  result  of  our  enterprise  were  very  small. 
A peremptory  order  for  our  immediate  departure  was  received  from 
the  Governor,  who  observed  that,  presuming  we  should  readily  obey 
it,  he  had  written  to  the  Viceroy  to  this  effect ; and,  therefore,  exact- 
ed a compliance.  This  order  would  have  been  obeyed  without  hesi- 
tation, but  for  a new  object,  of  sufficient  magnitude  to  induce  us  to 
take  the  risk  of  a quarrel  for  its  attainment.  An  arrival  from  Cali- 
fornia had  brought  a quantity  of  sea  otters’  skins,  which  we  hoped 
to  be  able  to  purchase  ; but,  as  the  owner  of  them  was  at  Mexico,  a 
few  days  was  necessarily  required  for  the  negotiation.  We  therefore 
remonstrated  with  the  Governor,  urged  the  impossibility  of  obedience 
to  his  order,  and  requested  the  liberty  of  remaining  a few  days  longer. 
As  the  Governor  declined  taking  this  responsibility  wholly  on  his  own 
shoulders,  he  called  a council  of  officers,  who  came  to  the  determina- 
tion that  we  might  remain  ten  days  longer.  This  was  sufficient  for 
our  purpose.  We  succeeded  in  purchasing  sixteen  hundred  sea 
otters’  skins,  on  such  advantageous  terms  that  it  would  secure  our 
voyage  from  loss,  even  if  we  made  no  further  sales. 

The  Governor  could  but  ill  conceal  his  vexation  at  our  refusal  to 
obey  his  order  for  our  departure  ; and  we  were  therefore  not  free 
from  apprehension  that  he  had  some  sinister  design  in  consenting  to 
our  remaining  longer.  Various  reports  were  in  circulation  tending  to 
induce  us  to  be  at  all  times  on  our  guard.  The  rumor  of  there  being 
a body  of  custom-house  guards  on  their  way  hither  from  Guadalax- 
ara,  whose  object  was  to  search  our  vessel  for  money,  was  so  current, 
and  appeared  to  be  so  probable,  that  we  were  induced  to  agree  on  a 
mode  of  proceeding,  in  the  event  of  such  an  attempt.  Mr.  Shaler’s 
superior  knowledge  of  the  Spanish  language  made  it  desirable  that 
he  should  stay  on  shore  to  transact  the  business  there,  while  I remain- 
ed on  board  to  attend  to  the  duties,  and,  as  far  as  practicable,  to 
secure  the  safety  of  the  ship  ; for,  as  an  apology  for  wearing  away 
the  time  until  our  object  was  accomplished,  we  had  rigged  a mizzen- 
mast, and  converted  our  brig  into  a ship.  As,  in  the  event  of  anv 
hostile  movement  on  the  part  of  the  Spaniards,  it  was  not  probable 
that  he  could  obtain  such  timely  notice  of  it,  as  to  effect  a retreat,  it 
was  agreed,  that  on  seeing  them  approach,  I should  get  the  ship  under 


FEAR  OF  AN  ATTACK. 


itn 


way,  carrying  off  the  Spanish  guard,  and  lie  by  at  a moderate  distance; 
where  I could  make  reasonable  terms  for  *he  exchange  of  prisoners. 

While  in  this  state  of  apprehension,  and  about  the  time  it  was  sup- 
posed the  guards  from  Guadalaxara  would  arrive,  the  men  in  our  boat, 
which  brought  off  the  day's  provisions,  reported  that  there  were  two 
large  launches  at  the  landing,  ready  manned.  The  men  were  lying 
on  their  oars,  apparently  waiting  the  arrival  of  their  officers,  and  said 
they  were  going  on  board  our  vessel  for  a hawser  we  had  borrowed. 
Two  launches  with  twenty  men  each,  to  carry  on  shore  a hawser, 
was  a very  improbable  story  ; and  as  I could  imagine  no  other  cause, 
than  that  of  putting  into  execution  the  rumored  search,  I immediately 
made  all  preparation  to  avoid  it.  But,  as  it  was  exceedingly  desirable 
to  avoid  a collision,  if  possible,  I caused  all  the  sails  to  be  loosed,  the 
topsails  to  be  sheeted  home,  and  the  cable  to  be  hove  short.  With 
great  anxiety,  I watched  the  setting  in  of  the  sea  breeze,  which  was 
unusually  late  ; but,  at  length,  came  with  much  force,  and  dissipatec 
our  apprehensions.  Desirous  of  being  relieved  from  so  unpleasant  a 
state  of  suspense,  I despatched  the  jolly-boat  with  a letter  to  Shaler 
informing  him  of  my  suspicions,  the  measures  I had  taken,  and  my 
determination  to  be  off,  if  the  jolly-boat  did  not  return  before  the  sea 
breeze  began  to  abate.  As  the  guard  could  not  avoid  seeing  our 
preparations,  I advised  him  to  anticipate  any  thing  they  might  com- 
municate to  the  Governor,  by  stating  the  facts  to  him  in  person. 

Whatever  may  have  been  intended,  nothing  was  done  ; our  men 
performed  their  errand  and  returned  on  board  unmolested.  The  next 
day  the  Commandant  made  us  a visit  in  the  government  felucca  of 
twenty  oars,  and  with  the  royal  flag  displayed.  After  rowing  round 
the  vessel,  as  he  said,  to  see  how  she  looked  rigged  as  a ship,  he  came 
on  board,  and  partook  of  a collation,  which  had  been  preparing 
during  the  time  he  was  engaged  in  reconnoitring  our  vessel  without 
and  within.  We  observed  him  to  be  particularly  attentive  to  our 
armament,  and  his  inquiries  relative  to  the  number  of  small-arms  we 
had  on  board,  &c.,  led  us  to  believe  that  the  object  of  his  visit  was  to 
ascertain  our  strength. 

Apprehensive  that  we  might  be  pounced  upon,  at  any  moment,  by 
an  overwhelming  force,  but  presuming  that  they  would  wait  until  we 
were  nearly  ready  to  depart,  as  then  the  prize  would  bo  most  valuable 


188 


SECOND  VOYAGE. 


and  our  culpability  most  palpable,  it  was  important  that  the  Com- 
mandant should  be  kept  ignorant  of  our  intention.  When  he  asked, 
therefore,  if  we  intended  going  the  following  day,  we  suggested  tc 
him  that  we  could  not  settle  our  accounts  with  the  Commissary  in  time 
for  that  purpose,  to  the  truth  of  which  he  assented.  As  a further 
evidence  of  the  necessity  of  another  day’s  delay,  we  referred  to  the 
large  bulk  and  amount  of  merchandise,  yet  on  shore. 

This  merchandise,  to  the  value  of  about  three  thousand  dollars, 
was  intended  to  be  left  in  charge  of  Rouissillon,  to  be  sold  for  our 
account ; and  the  proceeds  to  be  settled  for  when  we  should  meet  in 
the  United  States.  Although  no  permission  was  obtained  from  the 
Governor  for  taking  the  sea  otters’  skins  on  board,  yet,  as  they  were 
under  the  charge  of  the  Commissary,  from  whom  we  received  them, 
there  was  no  obstacle  to  it.  It  was  nearly  dark  by  the  time  we  had 
received  the  last  of  them  on  board  : and  then  the  Commissary  was 
very  urgent  that  we  should  not  delay  a moment  unnecessarily  before 
putting  to  sea;  as  he  was  apprehensive,  that,  if  the  transaction  became 
generally  known,  it  would  involve  him,  as  well  as  ourselves,  in  trouble. 
However  friendly  this  advice,  it  was  not  needed,  as  our  preparations 
were  already  made  to  be  away,  as  soon  as  the  object  for  which  we 
had  been  so  solicitous,  was  secured.  We  therefore  sent  the  guard 
ashore  in  the  launch  that  brought  cff  the  skins;  and  were  away  under 
a crowd  of  sail,  before  even  the  launch  could  have  reached  the  shore. 
As  the  Commandant  had  no  doubt  of  our  intention  to  remain  another 
day,  if  his  designs  were  what  we  had  strong  reason  to  suspect,  he 
must  have  been  greatly  disappointed  in  the  morning,  to  discover,  that 
“ the  bird  had  flown.” 

It  was  with  feelings  of  deep  regret,  that  we  parted,  here,  with  our 
excellent  and  admirable  friend  the  Count  John  de  Rouissillon,  with 
whom  we  had  been  so  intimately  associated  for  so  long  a period,  and 
who  had  shared  so  largely  in  the  various  perplexing  scenes,  incident 
to  the  prosecution  of  our  object.  To  his  address  and  perseverance 
we  were  mainly  indebted  for  the  permission  obtained  from  the  Viceroy 
of  Mexico,  for  the  sale  of  a part  of  the  cargo  ; and  for  the  indulgence 
of  the  additional  time  in  port,  necessary  to  secure  the  sea’  otters’ 
skins.  We  had  left  with  him  manufactures  to  the  amount  of  three 
thousand  dollars  cost ; and  which  were  worth,  at  the  actual  prices 


PARTING  WITH  ROTTISSILLON. 


189 


there,  more  than  three  times  that  cost.  From  the  proceeds  of  this, 
after  defraying  his  expenses,  he  was  to  account  with  us  in  the 
United  State's,  whore  we  anticipated  much  pleasure  in  meeting  him, 
in  the  course  of  the  ensuing  year.  At  parting,  he  expressed  the 
unalloyed  enjoyment  he  had  experienced  on  board,  his  grateful  feel- 
ings for  our  confidence,  and  his  earnest  desire  of  realizing  the 
pleasure  of  meeting  us  again  in  that  land  of  liberty  and  of  equal 
rights,  of  whicli  he  said  he  should  be  proud  to  become  a citizen. 

The  Count  de  Rouissilion  was  the  descendent  of  an  ancient  noble 
family  of  Poland.  An  advocate  for  liberty,  he  could  not  brook  the 
subjugation  of  his  country  ; and  for  his  efforts  to  avert  it,  he  was 
proscribed,  and  was  without  a home  when  we  became  acquainted  with 
him  at  Hamburgh.  He  possessed  a powerful  intellect,  and  gave 
evidence,  that  great  care  had  been  taken  in  its  cultivation.  His 
acquirements  in  mathematics,  in  astronomy,  in  music,  in  drawing, 
were  very  respectable,  and  there  was  scarcely  a European  language 
with  which  he  was  not  familiar.  Having  with  him,  among  others, 
books  in  the  Russian,  Polish,  and  German  languages,  the  Spanish 
authorities,  who  are  extiemely  watchful  and  rigorous  in  their  exam- 
ination of  all  books,  were  actually  confounded  by  them  ; but  allowed 
them  to  pass,  on  the  well-grounded  conviction,  that  nobody  in  the 
country  could  read  them,  and,  therefore,  that  they  could  do  no  harm. 
For  these  attainments  he  v/a,3  not  more  indebted  to  a fine  intellect 
than  to  an  untiring  industry  which  was  so  habitual,  that  he  seemed  to 
grudge  a moment’s  time  that  was  passed  without  adding  something  to  his 
knowledge.  So  that  when  walking  the  deck  for  exercise,  if  there 
was  nobody  to  walk  and  converse  with  him,  he  would  be  engaged  in 
practising  some  new  music  on  his  flute.  Being  at  this  time  only 
twenty-eight  years  of  age,  his  prospect  for  honorable  distinction 
seemed  all  that  his  ambition  could  desire  ; but,  unfortunately,  his 
earthly  course  was  cut  short  not  long  after  we  parted.  To  our  great 
grief  we  learned,  on  arriving  in  the  United  States,  that  he  died  at 
Mexico,  some  time  in  the  year  i803.  The  exclusive  policy  of  the 
Spanish  government,  relating  to  all  foreigners,  then  in  full  operation, 
made  it  so  difficult  to  obtain  any  information  from  Mexico,  that  we 
were  discouraged  from  any  attempt  to  ascertain  the  particulars  of  his 
death,  or  to  learn  what  became  of  our  property,  or  of  bis  effects 


190 


SECOND  VOYAGE. 


and,  to  this  day,  we  remain  in  ignorance  of  every  thing  relating  to 
these  subjects. 

The  day  after  our  departure  from  San  Bias  we  anchored  once  more 
in  the  bay  of  the  northern  Island  of  the  Three  Marias,  on  the  26th  of 
January,  1803.  More  than  fifteen  mouths  had  elapsed  since  our 
departure  from  Europe,  and  our  vessel  being  coppered  to  light-water 
mark  only,  we  now  perceived  that  the  worms  had  made  dreadful 
havoc  with  the  wooden  sheathing.  It  therefore  had  become  necessary 
to  careen  and  boot-top  the  vessel  ; an  operation  for  which  we  were 
but  poorly  prepared  ; and  therefore,  in  the  performance  of  it,  and  in 
replenishing  our  stock  of  wood  and  water,  a fortnight  was  consumed. 

Here  we  accidentally  found  out  that  our  danger  of  being  seized  at 
San  Bias  had  been  much  greater  than  we  had  apprehended,  from  a 
cause  of  which  we  had  no  suspicion,  and  therefore  could  not  guard 
against,  the  treachery  of  the  chief  mate.  This  officer  was  a young 
Englishman,  whose  conduct,  after  leaving  Valparaiso,  was  so  repre- 
hensible as  to  make  it  necessary  to  suspend  him  from  duty  ; but  he 
occupied  his  place  at  our  table,  was  permitted  to  go  on  shore  when 
he  pleased,  and  was  treated  with  proper  civility.  From  some  intima- 
tions which  he  occasionally  threw  out  to  the  men,  that  he  had  forborne 
to  cause  the  vessel  to  be  seized,  and  that  he  had  been  offered  a thou- 
sand dollars  for  his  journal,  it  immediately  occurred  to  us  that  he  had 
been  more  intimate  with  the  authorities  of  San  Bias,  than  was  con- 
sistent with  our  safety  ; and  if  so,  that  we  ought  to  know  it,  to  guard 
against  the  future.  As  it  seemed  to  be  the  most  direct  way  of  proving 
his  guilt  or  his  innocence,  and  a measure  that  was  justifiable,  on  the 
principle  of  self-preservation,  we  had  no  hesitation  in  seizing  his 
papers.  These  we  found  to  consist  of  a few  letters  and  his  sea 
journal. 

On  examining  the  journal,  we  perceived  it  had  been  mutilated,  and 
dates  only  previous  to  our  arrival  at  Valparaiso,  and  subsequent  to 
our  leaving  there,  remained.  Hence  there  was  strong  presumptive 
evidence  that  the  intermediate  portion,  relating  to  our  transactions  at 
Valparaiso,  was  in  possession  of  the  government  of  San  Bias. 
Amongst  the  letters  there  was  only  one  that  related  to  us.  This  was 
a letter  of  introduction  from  the  Commandant  to  a frier  d at  Macao, 
in  which  he  speaks  of  our  ingratitude  to  him,  and  of  his  having  so 


TREACHERY  OF  THE  CHIEF  MATE. 


191 


committed  himself  in  his  endeavor  to  be  serviceable  to  us  that  he  was 
unable  to  act  as  duty  required,  from  the  fear  of  consequences,  &c. 
He  also  recommends  his  friend  to  give  more  credence  to  any  repre- 
sentation which  the  bearer  might  make  to  him,  than  to  those  of  the 
captain. 

This  investigation  satisfied  us  that  we  had  escaped  seizure  by  the 
mere,  accident  of  the  mate’s  not  making  his  communication  to  the 
Commandant  until  this  officer  had  become  so  much  a party  in  the 
transaction,  as  to  make  his  own  safety  depend  on  its  concealment. 
Our  suspicions  of  his  hostile  intentions,  therefore,  may  have  been 
erroneous,  and  our  hurried  departure  unnecessary  ; but  if  we  erred 
it  will  be  acknowledged  to  have  been  on  the  side  of  prudence. 


CHAPTER  XV. 


Notice  of  San  Bias  — Domestic  Indians  — Circulation  of  Revolutionary  Papers — Sail 
from  the  Three  Maria  Islands  — St.  Clement’s  — Indians  — Arrive  at  San  Diego  — 
Commandant  Rodriguez  visits  the  Ship  — Leaves  a Guard  on  Board  — A Visit  to 
the  Fort — Ship  Alexander  — Fail  in  purchasing  the  Skins — Detention  of  our  Men 
— Rescue — Disarm  the  Guard  on  Board  — Prepare  for  War — Get  under  Sail  to  go 
out  — Fire  of  the  Fort  — Returned  — Pass  by  the  F ort  — Pui  the  Guards  on  Shore  — 
Arrive  at  St.  Qnintin’s  — Visit  of  Missionaries  — Corporal’s  Letter  — Padres’ 
Opinion  of  Rodriguez  — Leave  St.  Quintin’s — Notice  of  it — Guadaloupe  — San 
Borja  — Padre  Mariano  Apolonario  — His  Character — Procure  Horses  — Our  Fare- 
well— Arrive  at  St.  Joseph’s — Obtain  Supplies  — Sail  for  the  Sandwich  Islands. 


ft#®*8 


opportunity  for  becoming  acquainted  with 
San  Bias  and  its  environs,  was  even  greater  than 
we  desired  ; and  a short  notice  of  it  may  be  proper 
in  this  place.  San  Bias  is  a port  and  royal 
arsenal,  in  the  province  of  New  Gallicia,  in  the 
Viceroyalty  of  Mexico,  in  latitude  21°  36'  north. 
The  port,  formed  by  a branch  of  the  river  Santiago, 
and  an  island  to  the  southwestward,  is  of  small  capacity, 
very  narrow,  and  perfectly  secure.  A bar,  at  its 
entrance,  on  which  there  is  not  usually  more  than  four- 
teen feet  of  water,  makes  it  necessary,  before  attempting 
to  enter,  to  lighten  the  vessel,  in  the  road,  to  ten  or  eleven 
feet,  or  in  proportion  as  the  swell  may  be  on  the  bar,  at  the 
time  of  going  over  it.  It  is  defended  by  two  batteries  ; the 
one  of  eight  guns,  on  an  eminence  of  the  island  ; the  other 
on  the  beach  abreast  the  town,  besides  several  gun-boats.  The  road 
is  perfectly  safe  for  ships,  while  the  northwest  winds  are  prevalent, 
which  is  from  November  to  April.  During  the  other  months  of  the 
year,  when  the  southeast  winds  prevail,  which  sometimes  blow  with 
great  force,  it  is  not  safe  lying  there.  At  this  season,  also,  the  thunder- 
squalls  are  frequent,  and  are  the  most  awfully  sublime  that  can  be 


NOTICE  OF  SAN  BLAS. 


193 


imagined.  On  one  night,  in  particular,  for  the  space  of  three  hours, 
there  was  scarce  a moment’s  intermission  between  the  claps  of  thun- 
der; the  roar  of  which,  by  drowning  the  voices,  made  it  requisite  to 
substitute  signs  for  performing  the  duty  of  giving  the  ship  more  cable. 
The  lightning  was  incessant  and  vivid,  running  in  currents  down  the 
rigging  and  fore  and  aft  the  ship,  and  apparently  would  have  envel- 
oped her  in  flames,  but  for  the  torrents  of  water,  which  were  at  the 
same  time  falling.  The  scene  was  by  far  a more  awful  one  of  the 
kind  than  I ever  witnessed  before  or  since  ; and  we  consider  ourselves 
very  fortunate  in  escaping  all  other  mischief  than  that  of  dragging 
our  anchor  a mile  or  two. 

The  town  is  situated  on  a hill,  commanding  a fine  view  of  the  bay, 
from  which  it  makes  a pretty  appearance.  This  impression,  however, 
is  not  confirmed  on  entering  it,  the  houses  being  generally  very 
ordinary  structures,  and  the  streets  very  dirty.  There  are  about  five 
thousand  inhabitants,  including  the  seven  hundred  usually  attached  to 
the  arsenal.  The  annual  expense  of  the  arsenal,  at  this  time,  was 
about  half  a million  of  dollars.  The  commerce  of  San  Bias  is, 
indeed,  trifling,  there  being  only  three  small  merchant  vessels  owned 
here.  The  most  valuable  production  of  the  neighboring  country  is 
the  red  cedar,  which  is  of  large  size,  and  very  abundant.  This  is 
used  for  the  building  of  ships,  for  the  masts  and  spars,  for  boats,  oars, 
houses,  and,  indeed,  for  every  thing.  From  the  month  of  June  until 
September,  the  climate  of  San  Bias  is  considered  to  be  so  unhealthy, 
that  all  who  have  the  ability  to  remove,  go  to  Tipec,  which  is  situated 
in  the  highlands,  about  sixty  miles  distant. 

The  domestic  Indians,  in  the  neighborhood  of  San  Bias  and  Tipec, 
are  beginning  to  manifest  signs  of  discontent  and  insubordination, 
which  are  alarming  to  the  Spanish  authorities.  An  insurrection  was 
quelled,  last  year,  which  came  near  to  annihilating  the  Spanish 
supremacy  in  this  quarter.  An  alarm  was  given  while  we  were  here. 
All  was  bustle  and  activity  ; and  all  the  able  men,  with  field  pieces, 
&c.,  were  ordered  to  Tipec,  near  which  the  attack  was  expected. 
It  is  understood  that  the  Indians  are  instigated  by  Creole  Spaniards, 
who,  incapable  of  longer  supporting  their  oppression,  are  ready  to 
make  use  of  such  auxiliaries  to  effect  their  emancipation.  A spirit 
of  discontent  and  alienation  towards  the  government  seems  to  pervade 
17 


194 


SECOND  VOYAGE. 


/he  whole  Viceroyalty  of  Mexico.  This  was  confirmed  by  our  letters 
from  Rouissillon,  while  at  Mexico,  who  mentions,  that  inflammatory 
and  revolutionary  addresses  to  the  people  are  currently  circulated  in 
the  city,  one  of  which  was  handed  to  him  while  at  the  theatre.  It 
was  written  in  the  French  language.  Its  purport  was  to  make  known 
to  the  citizens  their  rights  ; to  show  them  how  they  were  violated  and 
trampled  upon  ; and  to  suggest,  that  the  remedy  was  in  their  own 
hands.  With  a view  of  giving  such  aid  as  we  supposed  might  be 
useful,  we  sent  them  copies  of  our  Declaration  of  Independence,  and 
of  the  Constitution  of  the  United  States. 

Having  succeeded  in  the  completion  of  our  object  at  the  Three 
Maria  Islands,  we  left  on  the  14th  of  February,  bound  to  San  Diego, 
in  California,  where  we  had  information  of  there  being  a parcel  of 
sea  otters’  skins,  which  might  be  obtained  advantageously.  It  being 
the  season  of  the  prevalence  of  strong  northerly  winds,  our  passage 
was  long  and  tedious.  On  the  morning  of  the  16th  of  March,  we 
were  becalmed  near  St.  Clement’s  Island,  where,  perceiving  a smoke, 
we  landed  abreast  of  it,  and  found  that  it  proceeded  from  a cave 
formed  in  the  side  of  a hill,  by  some  overhanging  rocks  and  earth 
but  insufficient  to  afford  shelter  from  the  weather,  with  any  other  than 
northerly  winds.  In  this  miserable  domicil,  resided  eleven  persons, 
men,  women,  and  children  ; and  though  the  temperature  was  such 
as  to  make  our  woolen  garment,  requisite,  they  were  all  in  a state  of 
perfect  nudity.  Their  food  was  exclusively  fish,  and  having  no 
cooking  utensils,  their  only  resource  was  baking  them  in  the  earth. 
We  could  not  perceive  that  they  possessed  a word  of  any  other  dialect 
than  their  own,  of  which  we  understood  nothing.  I had  been  familiar 
with  the  Indians  inhabiting  various  parts  of  the  western  coast  of 
America,  but  never  saw  any  so  miserable,  so  abject,  so  spiritless,  so 
nearly  allied  to  the  brute. 

Leaving  this  wretched  family,  after  distributing  among  them  a few 
articles  of  clothing,  we  stood  to  the  eastward,  under  easy  sail,  all 
night,  and  found  ourselves,  early  in  the  morning,  abreast  of  the  port 
of  Sam  Diego.  A brisk  northerly  wind  prevented  our  gaining  the 
anchorage  till  the  afternoon,  when,  having  passed  near  the  battery 
without  being  hailed,  we  came  to  anchor  about  a mile  within  it.  The 
next  day  the  Commandant,  Don  Manuel  Rodriguez,  with  an  escort 


VISIT  THE  BATTERY. 


195 


of  twelve  diagoons,  came  down  abreast  of  the  ship,  and  requested 
that  the  boat  might  be  sent  for  him.  This  being  done  immediately, 
he  crowded  the  boat  with  his  escort,  and  probably  regretted  the  neces- 
sity of  leaving  on  shore  his  horses.  We  had  been  told  at  San  Bias, 
that  Don  Manuel  was  an  exceedingly  vain  and  pompous  man  ; and 
indeed,  we  found  him  so  ; for  such  a ridiculous  display  of  a “ little 
brief  authority,”  and  pompous  parade,  I never  before  witnessed. 
His  dress  and  every  movement  evinced  the  most  arrant  coxcomb. 
Having  saluted  us  on  coming  over  the  ship’s  side,  he  waited,  before 
proceeding  aft,  until  his  escort  were  drawn  up  in  two  lines,  with  hats 
olf  in  one  hand,  and  drawn  swords  in  the  other,  and  then  passed 
between  them  to  the  companion  way.  After  the  ordinary  inquiries, 
of  whence  we  came,  whither  bound,  and  the  object  of  our  visit,  he 
called  to  the  officer  of  the  escort,  and  desired  him  to  take  a minute 
of  the  articles  we  required.  With  these  he  said  that  he  would  supply 
us  the  next  day ; on  receiving  which,  he  should  expect  we  would  not 
delay  a moment  in  leaving  the  port.  He  counted  our  men,  and, 
perceiving  us  to  be  only  fifteen,  all  told,  expressed  astonishment  at 
the  presumption  of  undertaking  so  long  and  dangerous  a navigation 
with  so  few  men.  He  forbade  our  going  to  the  town,  which  is  distant 
about  three  miles,  but  gave  us  leave  to  go  on  shore  in  the  neighborhood 
of  the  vessel.  Pie  took  leave  with  characteristic  pomp,  leaving  on 
board  five  of  his  escort,  as  he  said,  to  see  that  we  carried  on  no  con- 
traband trade. 

In  the  afternoon  we  made  an  excursion  on  shore ; and,  having 
rambled  towards  the  battery,  which  commands  the  entry  of  the  port, 
without  meeting  with  any  person  to  prevent  out  entering  it,  we  availed 
ourselves  of  the  opportunity  to  ascertain  its  strength  and  state.  We 
found  eight  brass  nine-pounders,  mounted  on  carriages,  which 
appeared  to  be  in  good  order,  and  a plentiful  supply  of  ball  ; but  there 
was  no  appearance  of  their  having  been  used  for  a long  time.  As 
the  examination  of  a battery  belonging  to  a people  the  most  jealous 
and  suspicious  on  earth,  was  a delicate  business,  we  did  not  remain 
long  within  its  precincts,  and,  having  had  an  agreeable  excursion, 
returned  on  board  at  sunset.  In  the  evening  we  made  acquaintance 
with  our  guard,  the  sergeant  of  which  appeared  to  be  an  intelligent 
voung  man.  He  informed  us,  that,  only  a few  days  past,  the  ship 


196 


SECOND  VOYAGE. 


Alexander,  of  Boston,  Captain  Brown,  had  been  there;  that  he  had 
succeeded  in  purchasing  from  the  soldiers  and  people  several  hundred 
skins  ; that  information  of  it  had  been  given  to  the  Commandant,  who 
without  first  demanding  their  surrender,  boarded  the  ship  with  an 
armed  force,  made  a search,  and  took  away  all  the  skins  they  could 
find,  together  with  some  merchandise.  These  skins,  he  said,  were  now 
in  possession  of  the  Commandant,  which,  with  what  he  had  of  his 
own,  probably  exceeded  a thousand.  These,  we  made  every  effort 
to  obtain  from  him  ; and,  though  there  is  no  doubt  that  he  would  have 
been  as  well  pleased  to  sell,  as  we  should  have  been  to  purchase  them, 
if  the  transaction  had  beei.  practicable  without  being  known  to  the 
people,  yet,  as  this  was  out  of  the  question,  and  they  were  all  spies 
on  each  other,  he  dared  not  indulge  Ins  desire  of  selling  them  to  us. 
Had  Brown  negotiated  with  the  Commandant  first,  it  is  most  probable 
he  would  have  obtained  the  whole  quantity,  and,  at  the  same  time, 
have  avoided  the  humiliating  predicament  of  having  his  ship  taken 
possession  of  by  the  rabble. 

It  was  evident  now,  that  the  object  for  which  we  came  here  was 
unattainable.  Having,  on  the  21st  of  March,  received  the  supplies 
we  had  asked,  the  Commandant  again  visited  us,  in  the  same  pompous 
style,  to  receive  bis  pay.  On  leaving  us  he  made  known  his  expecta- 
tion, that  we  would  leave  the  port  next  morning,  wished  us  a pleasant 
voyage,  and  we  parted  on  the  most  friendly  terms.  We  had  been 
offered  a number  of  skins,  in  small  parcels,  in  the  course  of  the  day, 
to  be  delivered  to  us  after  dark,  and  determined  to  purchase  as  many 
as  we  could  that  night.  Accordingly,  between  eight  and  nine  o’clock, 
(the  time  agreed  on,)  both  boats  were  despatched  to  different  parts  of 
the  harbor,  one  of  which  returned  in  proper  time  with  several  skins: 
but  the  other,  in  which  was  the  mate  and  two  men,  did  not  return 
that  night.  That  some  disaster  had  occurred  to  prevent  her  return, 
was  presumable,  but  to  attempt  ascertaining  the  cause,  in  the  night, 
would  have  been  incurring  too  great  a risk.  We  watched  the  approach 
of  morning,  with  a view  to  seize  and  act  upon  any  contingency  that 
circumstances  might  present,  before  the  moving  of  the  people. 

The  first  discovery  after  dawn,  was  that  of  our  boat,  lying  on  the 
beach,  abreast  of  our  vessel,  with,  apparently,  no  person  in  her.  On 
seeing  this,  I went  immediately  to  the  boat,  and,  when  there,  perceived 


CAPTURE  OF  OUR  MEN. 


197 


a group  of  men  at  a short  distance,  among  whom  ours  were  discernible. 
Being  without  arms,  an  attempt  to  rescue  them  would  have  been 
imprudent.  I therefore  returned  on  board,  taking  with  me  the  other 
boat.  It  was  now  very  evident,  that  not  a moment  was  to  be  lost  in 
deciding  on  the  course  to  be  pursued.  The  choice  presented  us  was 
that  of  submission,  indignant  treatment,  and  plunder;  or  resistance 
and  hazarding  the  consequences.  There  was  not  the  least  hesitation 
with  Mr.  Shaler  or  myself  in  adopting  the  latter  alternative.  As  a 
preliminary  step,  the  guard  on  board  were  disarmed,  and  made  to  go 
below  ; then  1 went  with  four  men,  each  with  a brace  of  loaded  pistols, 
to  the  rescue  of  those  on  shore.  On  landing,  we  ran  up  to  the  guard 
and,  presenting  our  pistols,  ordered  them  instantly  to  release  our  men 
from  their  ligatures;  for  they  had  been  tied  hand  and  foot,  and  had 
been  lying  on  the  ground  all  night.  This  order  was  readily  complied 
with  by  the  three  soldiers,  who  had  been  guarding  them  ; and,  to 
prevent  mischief,  we  took  away  their  arms,  dipped  them  in  the  water, 
and  left  them  on  the  beach.  The  mate  reported,  that  they  were 
arrested  immediately  on  landing,  by  a party  of  horse,  with  the  Com- 
mandant in  person  at  their  head;  whence  we  concluded,  that  he  had 
sent  the  soldier,  with  whom  we  made  the  agreement  for  the  skins, 
expressly  to  decoy  us,  that  he  might  have  an  apology  to  plunder  us. 

Arriving  safely  on  board,  we  perceived  our  men  to  be  so  indignant 
at  the  treatment  of  their  shipmates,  as  to  be  ready  for  the  fight,  even 
had  the  odds  been  greater  against  us.  We  had,  however,  a disagree- 
able and  very  hazardous  task  to  perform  ; a failure  in  which  would 
be  attended  with  ruin  to  us,  besides  subjecting  us  to  the  humiliating 
treatment  of  an  incensed  petty  tyrant.  Our  position,  at  anchor,  was 
about  a mile  within  the  fort,  of  which  mention  has  been  made.  It 
was  necessary  to  pass  within  musket-shot  of  this  fort.  With  a strong 
wind,  the  quick  passage  of  the  vessel  would  render  the  danger  trifling  ; 
but,  unfortunately,  we  had  now  but  the  last  expiring  breath  of  the 
land  breeze,  sufficient  only  to  give  the  ship  steerage  way,  and  an  hour 
would  elapse  before  we  could  presume  on  passing  the  fort ; but  no 
other  alternative  was  left  us,  that  did  not  present  a more  dreaded 
aspect. 

While  making  our  preparations,  we  perceived  that  all  was  bustle 
and  animation  on  shore;  both  horse  and  foot  were  flocking  to  the  fort. 
17* 


198 


SECOND  VOYAGE. 

Our  six  three-pounders,  which  were  all  brought  on  the  side  of  tlio 
ship  bearing  on  the  fort,  and  our  fifteen  men  was  all  our  force,  with 
which  to  resist  a battery  of  three  nine  pounders, and,  at  least  an  hundred 
men.  As  soon  as  our  sails  were  loosed  and  we  began  to  heave  up 
the  anchor,  a gun  without  shot  was  discharged  from  the  battery  and 
the  Spanish  flag  hoisted  ; perceiving  no  effect  from  this,  they  fired  a 
shot  ahead.  By  this  time  our  anchor  was  up,  all  sail  was  set,  and  we 
were  gradually  approaching  the  fort.  In  the  hope  of  preventing  their 
firing,  we  caused  the  guard  in  their  uniforms  to  stand  along  in  the 
most  exposed  and  conspicuous  station  ; but  it  had  no  effect,  not  even 
when  so  near  the  fort,  that  they  must  have  been  heard  imploring  them 
to  desist  firing,  and  seen  to  fall  with  their  faces  to  the  deck,  at  every 
renewed  discharge  of  the  cannon.  We  had  been  subjected  to  a can- 
nonade of  three  quarters  of  an  hour,  without  returning  a shot,  and, 
fortunately,  with  injury  only  to  our  rigging  and  sails.  When  arrived 
abreast  the  fort,  several  shot  struck  our  hull,  one  between  wind  and 
water,  which  was  temporarily  stopped  by  a wad  of  oakum.  We  now 
opened  our  fire,  and,  at  the  first  broadside,  saw  numbers,  probably  of 
those  who  came  to  see  the  fun,  scampering  away  up  the  hill  at  the 
back  of  the  fort.  Our  second  broadside  seemed  to  have  caused  the 
complete  abandonment  of  their  guns,  as  none  were  fired  afterwards ; 
nor  could  we  see  any  person  in  the  fort,  excepting  a soldier  who  stood 
upon  the  ramparts,  waving  his  hat,  as  if  to  desire  us  to  desist  firing. 

Having  passed  out  of  the  reach  of  their  cannon,  the  poor  guards, 
who  had  been  left  on  board,  saw  themselves  completely  in  our  power, 
without  the  chance  of  rescue,  and  probably  calculated  on  such  treat- 
ment as  they  knew  would  have  been  our  lot,  if  equally  in  the  power 
of  their  Commandant.  Their  exhibition  of  fear  was  really  ludicrous, 
for,  while  we  were  tying  up  their  fire-arms,  so  as  to  prevent  their 
using  them,  and  getting  the  boat  ready  to  send  them  harmlessly  on 
shore,  they  were  all  the  time  tremblingly  imploring  for  mercy  ; nor 
could  the)'  be  made  to  believe,  until  they  were  actually  on  shore,  that 
we  intended  to  do  them  no  harm.  When  landed,  and  their  arms 
handed  to  them,  they  embraced  each  other,  crossed  themselves,  and 
fell  on  their  knees  in  prayer.  As  our  boat  was  leaving  them,  they 
rose  up  and  cried  at  the  utmost  stretch  of  their  voices,  “ Vivan,vivan 
los  Americanos  .” 


VISIT  OF  THE  PADRES. 


199 


Having  plugged  up  the  hole  made  by  the  shot,  near  the  water,  we 
steered  southward  for  the  bay  of  St.  Quintin’s,  and  arrived  there  on 
the  24th  instant.  Here  we  fell  in  with  Captain  Brown,  in  the  ship 
Alexander,  who  gave  us  a detail  of  the  rough  manner  in  which  he 
had  been  treated  by  the  Commandant  of  San  Diego,  which  confirmed 
us  in  the  propriety  of  the  measures  we  had  pursued  to  avoid  a similar 
treatment.  Captain  Brown  left  us  on  the  5th  of  April,  bound  to  the 
Northwest  Coast.  This  was  the  only  American  ship  we  had  seen 
since  leaving  Valparaiso,  and  the  meeting  was  very  agreeable  to  both 
parties;  indeed,  a countryman  abroad  is  hailed  like  an  old  acquaint- 
ance, and  there  is  always  a consciousness  of  belonging  to  the  same 
home,  which  makes  such  meeting  pleasant  in  any  part  of  the  world, 
and  is  particularly  felt  when,  as  in  this  instance,  we  had  escaped 
similar  dangers,  and  were  among  a people  remarkable  for  treachery 
and  hostility  to  strangers.  We  therefore  viewed  his  departure  with 
feelings  somewhat  allied  to  that  of  taking  leave  of  an  old  friend. 

A few  days  after  arriving  here,  we  were  visited  by  the  Padres  of 
the  missions  of  San  Vincente,  San  Domingo,  San  Rosario,  and  San 
Fernando,  who  came  on  horses,  with  a retinue  of  Indian  domestics, 
making  quite  a formidable  train.  The  Commandante  of  San  Vin- 
cente, a mission  about  sixty  miles  north  of  this  port,  accompanied  the 
Padre  of  that  mission,  and  they  formed  together  a jolly  set  of  fellows. 
Their  object  seemed  to  be  principally  recreation,  though  they  brought 
a few  sea  otters’  skins,  which  they  bartered  with  us  for  European 
manufactures.  They  pitched  their  tents  on  the  beach  abreast  the 
vessel,  and  having  provided  themselves  with  an  abundant  supply  of 
provisions  and  the  requisite  cooking  utensils,  they  became  quite 
domiciliated.  Never  was  there  an  equal  number  of  men  more  dis- 
posed to  promote  harmony  and  good  fellowship,  and  we  dined  together 
alternately  on  shore  and  on  board,  during  the  week  that  they  remained 
with  us. 

As,  for  several  days  after  their  arrival,  they  did  noB  mention  the 
affair  of  San  Diego,  we  supposed  they  might  not  have  heard  of  it ; 
yet,  as  San  Vincente  was  so  near,  it  would  be  strange  if  the  news  of 
an  event  so  novel  and  extraordinary  should  not  have  reached  them. 
After  the  acquaintance  had  been  promoted,  however,  by  a few  days 
of  such  familiar  intercourse,  we  were  asked,  by  the  eldest  of  the 


N 


200 


SECOND  VOYAGE. 


Padres,  if  vve  had  not  been  to  San  Diego?  With  the  peculiarity 
attributed  to  New  Englanders,  our  answer  was  evasive,  and  the  ques- 
tion put  “ Why  ? ” He  then  told  us  of  an  American  who  had  been 
there  since  Brown,  and  related  our  transactions  so  precisely  as  they 
occurred,  t hat  we  acknowledged  ourselves  to  have  been  the  actors. 
He  said  that  the  account  of  the  affair  was  transmitted  in  a letter  from 
the  corporal,  who  commanded  in  the  battery,  to  his  senior  officer  at 
Loretto,  and  that  the  letter  was  left  unsealed,  that  it  might  be  read  at 
the  several  missions  on  its  way,  and  to  be  sealed  at  the  last  mission 
before  arriving  at  Loretto.  While  the  corporal,  in  his  letter,  was 
severe  in  his  strictures  on  the  conduct  of  the  Commandant,  in  first 
enticing  us  into  this  difficulty,  and  then  taking  care  not  to  enter  the 
fort  until  he  ascertained  that  we  were  out  of  reach  of  cannon 
shot,  ho  was  profuse  in  his  eulogies  of  us.  Our  forbearance  so  long 
before  returning  their  fire,  our  humanity  and  generosity  to  the  guards, 
under  such  provocation,  and  our  ceasing  to  fire  when  they  did, 
were  considered  by  the  corporal  as  acts  of  magnanimity,  which 
should  recommend  us  to  the  kindness  and  hospitality  of  all  good 
Spaniards. 

The  Padres  had  been  friendly  before  this  acknowledgment,  but  they 
seemed  afterwards  to  vie  with  each  other,  who  should  show  us  the 
greatest  kindness,  offering  to  procure  us  supplies  in  any  quantity,  and 
assuring  us  of  meeting  a hospitable  reception  at  any  of  the  missions 
we  might  visit  in  California.  As  they  did  not  suppose,  on  leaving 
home,  that  vve  should  be  induced  to  remain  long  in  a desert  port,  they 
had  provided  themselves  with  provisions  for  a week  only  ; at  the 
expiration  of  which,  they  left  us,  with  a promise  to  return  again  in  a 
fortnight,  with  a supply  of  such  stores  for  ourselves,  as  we  had  given 
them  a list  of.  Having,  with  ill-judged  economy,  coppered  our  vessel 
only  to  light-water  mark,  we  perceived  that  the  worm  bad  already 
made  dreadful  ravages  in  our  wooden  sheathing,  and  that  it  was 
necessary  to  lay  her  ashore  to  cleanse  and  boot-top  the  bottom.  The 
port  being  well  adapted  to  such  purpose,  it  was  accomplished  without 
difficulty.  In  the  performance  of  this  business,  of  repairing  the  injury 
sustained  in  our  sails  and  rigging  by  the  cannon  shot,  in  the  recreation 
of  fishing  and  fowling,  and  in  taking  a plan  of  the  port,  the  time  was 
filled  up  until  the  fortnight  agreed  on  had  elapsed,  when  the  Padres, 


PADRES. 


201 


true  to  the  engagement,  again  made  their  appearance,  with  the  stores 
required. 

Although  there  was  nothing  now  to  cause  us  another  day’s  detention, 
yet  the  Padres  were  so  urgent  for  our  remaining  another  week, 
alleging  that  they  had  brought  provision  with  that  expectation,  that  we 
could  not  resist  their  importunate  persuasions.  They  were  now 
desirous  of  being  acquainted  with  some  particulars  of  our  affair  at 
San  Diego,  which  could  be  obtained  only  from  us,  such  as  to  be 
showed  the  men  who  were  captured  and  tied  on  shore ; those  who 
rescued  them  ; if  there  was  any  attempt  at  resistance  ; the  several 
places  the  shot  had  struck,  &c.  &c.  We  were  very  happy  to  be 
informed  by  them,  that  no  person  was  even  hurt  by  our  shot.  These 
good  Padres,  though  very  amiable,  were  very  ignorant  on  all  subjects, 
excepting  that  of  their  profession,  and  so  intolerant  and  bigoted,  as 
frequently  to  express  astonishment,  that  men  so  humane  and  intelli- 
gent should  be  blind  to  the  truth  and  beauty  of  Catholicism.  In 
remarking,  however,  on  the  apparent  amiability  of  these  people,  I 
ought  to  except  the  Padre  of  San  Vincente,  who,  it  must  be  acknowl- 
edged, had  no  just  pretensions  to  such  character,  after  boasting,  as  he 
did,  that  he  had  rendered  God  service  by  killing  many  of  the  Indians 
who  obstinately  refused  to  be  converted.  They  expressed  great  disgust 
with  the  character  and  conduct  of  Don  Manuel  Rodriguez,  called  him 
a poltroon,  and  said  he  would  be  broken  ; not  so  much  for  having 
fired  on  a ship  of  friendly  power,  as  for  undertaking  what  he  was 
unable  to  accomplish,  thereby  exposing  the  weakness  of  the  place, 
and  subjecting  the  royal  flag  to  insult.  It  is,  indeed,  doubtful  whether 
the  eclat  caused  in  Europe  by  the  battle  of  Copenhagen,  was  greater 
than  that  of  the  battle  of  San  Diego,  in  California. 

The  week  we  had  engaged  to  pass  with  the  Padres  having  expired 
on  the  3d  of  May,  we  then,  with  reciprocal  friendly  salutations,  and 
cordial  interchange  of  good  wishes  for  prosperity  and  happiness, bade 
them  farewell,  and  put  to  sea,  bound  to  the  Isle  of  Guadaloupe,  in 
the  hope  of  there  obtaining  a supply  of  water,  for  that  which  we 
found  at  St.  Quintin’s  was  of  an  inferior  quality,  and  was  only 
obtained  by  digging  a well.  The  want  of  this,  and  equally  of  wood, 
lessens  much  the  value  of  this  port.  It  is  remarkable,  considering 
the  length  of  time  the  Spaniards  have  possessed  this  country,  and  the 


202 


SECOND  VOYAGE 


accuracy  and  ability  with  whicli  their  navigators  generally  have  sur 
veyed  their  possessions  on  this  coast,  that  they  are  yet  ignorant  of 
this  excellent  harbor.  It  was  discovered  about  the  year  1800,  by 
Captain  O’Kain,  of  Boston.  The  entrance  to  it  is  so  narrow  and 
obscure,  that  had  not  Brown  been  here  to  direct  us,  it  is  doubtful  if 
we  had  found  it ; yet  we  carried  in  not  less  than  three  fathoms,  and 
anchored  in  four,  in  one  of  the  safest  harbors  in  the  world.  It  is  also 
very  capacious,  and  abounding  in  the  sea  otter,  of  which,  though  very 
shy,  we  shot  several.  The  shore,  at  short  distances  from  the  beach, 
is  greatly  infested  with  rattlesnakes. 

Arriving  at  the  Island  of  Guadaloupe  on  the  4th,  the  whole  of  the 
next  day  was  passed  in  seeking  for  water  on  the  lee  side  of  the  island, 
presuming  from  its  height,  that  there  was  no  doubt  of  success,  but 
we  were  disappointed.  There  were  various  gullies,  indicating  abun- 
dance at  certain  seasons,  which  were  now  perfectly  dry.  Steering 
again  to  the  eastward,  we  entered  a small  bay  on  that  part  of  the 
coast,  which  is  nearest  the  mission  of  San  Borgia,  and  came  to  anchor. 
The  next  day  we  were  visited  by  the  Father  of  that  mission,  Mariano 
Apolonario,  who  hud  been  expecting  us  some  days,  and  had  kept  an 
Indian  on  the  look-out  for  us,  that  he  might  be  advised  immediately 
on  our  arrival.  Having  received  notice  of  our  approach  from  the 
Indian,  the  day  before  our  arrival,  he  had  set  out,  though  uncertain  if 
we  had  anchored.  As  his  mission  was  sixty  miles  from  the  seacoast, 
and  he  was  accompanied  by  twenty  domestics,  with  provisions  and 
bacgage  laden  on  twenty-five  horses  and  mules,  he  would  ha’ve  been 
greatly  disappointed  had  we  passed  without  anchoring,  and  therefore 
was  gratified  at  a meeting  which  he  seemed  to  have  counted  much 
upon. 

We  made  the  best  arrangement  in  our  power  for  the  accommoda- 
tion of  the  Padre  and  his  domestics  ; but,  after  passing  one  night  on 
board,  he  experienced  such  inconvenience  from  the  motion  of  the 
ship,  as  to  make  it  desirable  to  provide  some  shelter  for  him  on  shore. 
Accordingly,  in  the  morning  a sail  was  taken  on  shore,  with  which 
our  men  made  a large  and  commodious  tent.  Here  our  days  were 
principally  passed  in  conversation  with  the  Padre,  interrupted  only  by 
occasional  rambles  over  the  sand-hills,  for  exercise.  Amongst  the 
domestics  of  the  Padre  was  that  very  useful  and  important  appendage 


PAL  RE  MARIANO. 


203 


of  a missionary,  a very  good  cook  ; and,  as  he  was  provided  with 
plenty  of  venison  and  poultry,  whereon  to  exercise  his  skill,  we  per- 
ceived it  to  be  as  much  for  our  advantage  as  it  was  gratifying  to  the 
Padre,  that  we  should  dine  with  him  every  day.  On  these  occasions 
we  had  neither  plates  nor  dishes,  knives  nor  forks  ; nor  were  they 
requisite,  as  the  food  was  served  up  in  a large  wooden  bowl,  into 
which  each  in  turn  dipped  his  spoon,  in  true  primitive  style.  A due 
degree  of  exercise  in  a fine  bracing  atmosphere,  however,  previous 
to  taking  these  homely  repasts,  gave  to  them  a relish  which  is  not  often 
experienced  at  the  most  luxurious  and  elegant  tables. 

Perceiving  that  water  was  not  procurable  in  this  vicinity,  having 
hut  a short  supply  on  board,  and  uncertain  where  it  was  to  be  obtained, 
there  was  obviously  a necessity  of  cutting  short  our  visit  at  this  sta- 
tion. As  soon  as  the  Padre  was  made  acquainted  with  it,  he  applied 
a remedy,  by  engaging  to  supply  us  with  our  daily  consumption  of 
water,  although  he  had  to  send  six  miles  for  it,  and  this  he  did  daily 
until  our  departure,  besides  providing  abundance  of  fresh  provisions 
for  the  ship’s  company. 

The  more  intimately  we  became  acquainted  with  Padre  Mariano, 
the  more  we  were  convinced  that  his  was  a character  to  love  and 
respect.  He  appeared  to  be  one  of  that  rare  class,  who,  for  piety  and 
the  love  of  their  fellow-men,  might  justly  rank  with  a Fenelon  or  a 
Cheverus.  His  countenance  beaming  with  the  love  and  benevolence 
which  were  his  prevailing  motives  of  action,  inspired  immediate  and 
perfect  confidence,  even  with  those  who  had  seen  as  much  of  the 
Spanish  character  as  it  had  been  our  lot  to  do.  His  mild  and  humane 
treatment  of  his  domestics  made  their  intercourse  more  like  that  of 
father  and  children,  than  of  master  and  servants.  His  regular  observ- 
ance, morning,  noon,  and  evening,  of  his  devotional  duties,  with  his 
uncouth  looking  domestics  assembled  round  him,  and  on  bended  knee, 
and  with  the  utmost  decorum,  participating  in  his  prayers  to  the  throne 
of  grace,  was  affecting,  and  might  be  received  as  a tacit  reproach  for 
indifference  to  such  duties,  by  that  part  of  his  audience,  whom  his 
brethren  would  denominate  heretics.  But  this  good  man  was  gifted 
with  a mind  too  liberal  and  noble,  and  a benevolence  too  extensive  and 
pure  to  pronounce  condemnation  for  difference  of  opinions,  or  to  believe 
in  the  monopoly  of  truth  and  goodness  in  any  one  sect  of  Christians 


204 


SECOND  VOYAGE. 


Our  visit  here  had  been  protracted  much  beyond  our  intentions,  by 
the  persuasions  of  the  Padre,  and  the  promise  of  two  horses,  which 
we  had  unsuccessfully  endeavored  to  procure  at  the  other  missions,  as 
a present  to  the  King  of  the  Sandwich  Islands.  These  arrived  at  the 
encampment  on  the  19th,  a male  and  a female,  and  were  presented  to 
us  by  the  Padre.  In  return  for  these,  and  a flagon  of  wine  and  some 
dried  fruits,  we  gave  him  such  manufactures  as  he  desired,  to  more 
than  their  value.  The  next  day  we  took  the  horses  on  board,  and 
made  preparation  for  our  departure.  As  it  was  then  late  in  the  after- 
noon, and  we  could  not  consent  to  deprive  the  good  Padre  of  his  tent 
for  the  night,  we  remained  on  this  account. 

Early  on  the  following  morning,  we  went  on  shore  and  spent  an 
hour  with  the  Padre,  while  our  men  were  engaged  in  striking  the 
tent,  and  taking  away  the  sail  which  had  formed  it.  He  expressed  *o 
us  the  great  satisfaction  he  had  experienced  in  our  society,  and  regiet- 
ted  we  could  not  pass  another  week  with  him,  adding  that  our  visit 
formed  an  epoch  in  his  life  ; that  at  his  mission  he  lived  like  a hermit, 
with  no  associates,  except  the  rude  Indian,  and  repeated  that  a visit 
like  ours  was  “ a God-send/’  On  taking  leave,  he  assured  us  that  v'e 
should  always  be  remembered  in  his  prayers,  and  accompanying  us  to 
the  boat,  repeated  and  vociferated  his  a Dion , until  we  were  too  dis- 
tant to  hear  him  more.  With  our  glass,  we  perceived  him  to  be 
waiting,  after  we  had  arrived  on  board  ; and  he  did  not  move  off  with 
his  retinue  until  we  had  weighed  anchor. 

At  10  o’clock,  A.  M.  we  weighed  anchor  and  made  all  sail  to  the 
southward,  and  in  the  evening  perceived  that  we  had  steered  too  near 
the  coast,  being  embayed  to  the  northward  of  the  Morro  Hermoso, 
and  were  obliged  to  make  a tack  out  of  our  course.  The  next  day 
we  passed  between  the  Island  Natividad  and  the  Morro  Hermoso  ; 
and  steering  to  the  southeast  with  a fine  northwest  wind,  were  up  with 
and  near  Cape  St.  Lucas,  in  the  evening  of  the  25th  instant.  Early 
the  following  morning,  we  came  to  anchor  in  the  bay  of  St.  Joseph, 
at  the  southern  extremity  of  the  peninsula,  and  near  the  mission  of 
that  name.  A beautiful  clear  run  of  water,  which  emptied  into  the 
bay,  and  of  sufficient  depth  to  admit  our  boat,  gave  us  great  facility 
in  filling  up  our  water-casks.  The  Padres  had  no  scruple  in  supply- 
ing us  with  such  provisions,  vegetables,  and  fruits,  as  the  p'ace 


LEAVE  FOK  THE  SANDWICH  ISLANDS. 


205 


afforded,  and  were  equally  ready  to  trade  with  us  to  the  extent  of 
their  means,  which  were  rather  limited.  In  addition  to  a supply  of 
stores,  we  purchased  of  them  pearls  to  the  amount  of  two  thousand 
dollars,  and  also  a mare  with  foal.  Having  with  much  difficulty  taken 
the  latter  on  board,  on  the  28th  of  May,  we  sailed  immediately  for  the 
Sandwich  Islands. 

18 


CHAPTER  XVI. 


Observations  on  leaving  the  Coast — California  — Sandwich  Islands — Visit  of  tli# 
King  — Land  the  Horses — Present  them  to  the  King — His  Estimation  of  them  — 
Visit  Derby’s  Grave  — Leave  the  Islands  — Sketch  of  Tamaamaah  — Attempt  at 
his  Conversion  — A Practice  of  the.  Natives  — An  Evidence  of  their  Gallantry  — 
Instances  of  Atrocious  Conduct  of  Americans  — Island  of  Guam  — A Visit  from 
the  Governor’s  Lady  — Sketch  of  the  Island  — A Storm  — Arrival  at  Canton  — 
Dispose  of  one  half  the  Ship  — Mr.  Shaler  returns  to  California,  and  I embark  in 
the  Alert  for  Boston.  » 


im  32  relief  and  freedom  from  care,  experienced  by 
being  once  more  beyond  the  reach  of  a power 
whose  most  dreaded  arms  are  deceit,  dissimulation, 
and  treachery,  are  more  easily  imagined  than 
described.  Fifteen  months  had  elapsed  since  our 
arrival  at  Valparaiso,  and  it  will  be  seen,  that  in 
each  of  the  three  ports  which  we  had  entered,  a 
state  of  hostility  had  existed  between  the  government  and 
ourselves,  which  was  probably  always  the  more  rancor- 
ous for  the  decided  part  the  people  took  in  our  favor. 
A circumstance  which  we  knew  to  be  owing  less  to  their 
affection  for  us,  than  to  their  deadly  hatred  to  the  officers  of 
government.  For  these  were  natives  of  Old  Spain,  and 
everywhere  on  this  coast  had  disgusted  the  Creoles,  by  their 
arrogant  and  overbearing  manner  of  treating  them.  No 
inconsiderable  drawback,  however,  upon  our  enjoyment  of  this  repose, 
was  the  reflection,  that  we  had  yet  on  board,  nearly  one  half  of  our 
European  cargo,  which  could  not  be  disposed  of  at  Canton,  unless 
there  should  chance  to  be  a vessel  fitting  out  from  thence  to  the  Span- 
ish coast,  of  which  there  was  not  much  probability.  From  the  profit 
there  vvas  no  doubt  of  our  making  on  the  sea  otters’  skins,  however, 
there  was  scarcely  any  chance  of  experiencing  a loss  on  the  whole 


COAST  OF  CALIFORNIA. 


207 


adventure;  and  Me  derived  consolation  from  the  reflection,  that  no 
efforts  had  been  wanting,  on  our  part,  to  produce  a better  result. 

We  had  coasted  along  the  western  shore  of  California,  for  the  most 
part  within  a distance  of  three  leagues,  and  often  much  nearer,  from 
San  Diego  to  Cape  San  Lucas  ; and,  during  the  whole  course,  had 
seen  nothing  but  a continued  range  of  barren  sand-hills,  with  occa- 
sional clumps  of  bushes  of  apparently  stinted  growth.  This  barren 
coast  has  nothing  to  recommend  it  as  the  habitation  of  man;  no  har- 
bor, no  water,  no  soil  adapted  to  cultivation.  Hence,  there  are  no 
missionary  establishments  near  the  shore.  At  a distance  of  about 
thirty  miles  in  the  interior,  the  country  is  said  to  present  a very  differ- 
ent aspect;  and  the  cheapness  of  cattle,  the  abundance  of  horses 
and  sheep,  together  with  the  apparently  well-fed  condition  of  the 
Padres,  would  seem  to  justify  the  report.  Indeed,  having  had  ample 
scope  to  choose,  the  Padres  would  not  have  evinced  their  usual 
sagacity,  if  they  had  failed  to  select  the  most  fertile  portions  of  the 
country  for  the  establishment  of  their  missions. 

The  only  game  we  saw  on  this  coast  was  deer,  which  were  numer- 
ous, but  always  so  shy  as  not  to  admit  our  coming  within  musket-shot 
of  them.  What  we  were  unable  to  effect  with  the  musket,  the  Indians 
succeeded  in  doing  by  stratagem.  Covered  with  the  skin  of  a deer, 
and  walking  on  all-fours,  they  would  get  so  near  to  the  drove,  before 
discovered,  as  usually  to  kill  or  maim  one  with  the  bow  and  arrow. 
The  invention,  which  is  caused  by  necessity,  is  exhibited  here,  in  their 
means  of  conveyance  on  the  water.  Having  no  wood,  they  make 
their  canoes,  or,  as  they  are  called,  bolsas , of  flags,  sufficiently  buoy- 
ant to  carry  one  person  ; and  on  this  the  Indian  will  not  only  come 
off  to  ships  which  are  distant,  but  ride  over  the  surf  which  is  break- 
ing on  the  shore,  at  a time  when  it  could  not  be  done  bv  a whaleboat. 
The  mission  of  St.  Joseph’s  is  a desirable  place  to  procure  water  and 
refreshments  ; but  there  is  no  other  place,  where  these  can  be  obtained, 
between  this  mission  and  the  Presidio  of  San  Diego. 

Leaving  the  mission  of  San  Josephus  on  the  28di  of  May,  1803,  we 
experienced  undeviating  fine  weather,  fair  winds,  and  smooth  sea,  on 
our  passage  to  the  Sandwich  Islands,  and  on  the  19th  of  June,  1803,  • 
got  sightmf  Owhyhee,  its  summit  towering  above  the  clouds.  We 
passed  lvohollo  Point  with  a strong  breeze  ; and,  presuming  the  king 


208 


SECOND  VOYAGE. 


to  be  :it  Karakakoa  Bay,  we  proceeded  directly  thither  ; and,  arriv- 
ing on  the  21st,  in  the  morning,  we  lay  by  and  fired  a gun.  Not  a 
canoe,  however,  nor  a person,  was  seen  moving.  The  silence  and 
inactivity  which  prevailed,  formed  a perfect  contrast  to  all  my  former 
experience  at  these  islands.  At  length,  after  lying  by  more  than  an 
hour,  two  persons  were  discovered  swimming  off  to  us.  On  arriving 
on  board,  one  of  them  spoke  sufficient  English  to  make  us  under- 
stand, that  there  existed  a 'Baboo;  and  moreover,  that  the  king  and 
principal  men  were  at  Mowee.  They  piloted  us  to  the  best  anchor- 
age, passing  over  the  coral  bank ; and  we  anchored  on  a sandy 
bottom,  in  sixteen  fathoms. 

The  next  day,  John  Young,  who  had  seen  us  pass  his  residence,  at 
Tooayah  Bay,  made  us  a visit,  presuming  we  should  anchor  here. 
He  told  us,  that  the  Taboo  was  a periodical  one.  When  he  first 
became  an  inhabitant  of  the  island,  it  was  of  ten  days’  duration  ; but  of 
late  years,  had  been  reduced,  and  was  now  limited  to  three.  We  intended 
to  remain  here  no  longer  than  was  requisite  to  supply  ourselves  with 
a few  refreshments,  which  Young  undertook  to  procure  for  us.  We 
improved  the  time,  therefore,  by  a ramble  on  shore.  Among  other 
places,  we  visited  that  Morai,  where,  in  defiance  of  the  prejudices 
of  the  natives,  Captain  Cook  caused  his  observatory  to  be  erected  ; a 
desecration,  which  was  the  origin  of  the  quarrel  that  terminated  his 
existence.  There  are  yet  standing,  near  the  Morai,  several  cocoa- 
nut  trees,  which  are  perforated  with  the  balls  fired  from  his  cannon 
on  that  occasion. 

We  left  Karakakoa  Bay  on  the  23d,  and  the  next  morning  anchored 
in  Tooayah  Bay,  for  the  purpose  of  landing  the  mare  with  foal,  for 
which  Young  was  very  urgent ; professing  to  have  a knowledge  of  the 
treatment  of  horses,  and  promising  to  take  all  possible  care  of  the 
animal.  In  the  expectation,  that  the  chance  of  their  increase  would 
be  better  secured,  by  placing  the  horses  in  the  care  of  different  per- 
sons, we  acceded  to  his  request,  and  landed  the  mare  in  safety  near 
his  place.  This  was  the  first  horse  that  ever  trod  the  soil  of  Owhyhee, 
and  caused,  among  the  natives,  incessant  exclamations  of  astonish- 
ment. Leaving  this  bay  the  same  evening,  we  steered  for  Mowee; 
off  which  island  we  lay  becalmed  a part  of  the  next  day.  When  the 
breeze  sprang  up,  though  at  a long  distance  from  the  village  of  La- 


VISITED  BY  THE  KING. 


209 


hina,  we  were  boarded  by  Isaac  Davis  the  European,  who,  with  John 
Young,  was  captured  many  years  since,  in  Captain  Metcalf’s  vessel. 
Soon  after,  a double  canoe  was  seen  coming  towards  us ; and  on 
arrival  alongside,  a large  athletic  man,  nearly  naked,  jumped  on  board, 
who  was  introduced,  by  Davis,  as  Tamaahmaah,  the  great  King. 

Desirous  of  conciliating  the  good  opinion  of  a person  whose  power  was 
so  great,  we  omitted  no  attention  which  we  supposed  would  be  agree- 
able to  him.  But  whether  he  had  left  some  duty  unperformed  on 
shore,  or  whether  he  had  met  with  something  to  disturb  his  serenity 
of  mind,  we  know  not ; certain  it  was,  that  he  did  not  reciprocate  our 
civilities.  He  appeared  to  be  absent ; and,  after  walking  round  the 
deck  of  the  vessel,  and  taking  only  a very  careless  look  of  the  horses, 
he  got  into  his  canoe,  and  went  on  shore.  Davis  remained  on  board 
all  night,  to  pilot  us  to  the  best  anchorage,  which  we  gained  early  the 
following  morning,  and,  soon  after,  had  our  decks  crowded  with 
visiters  to  see  the  horses.  The  people  showed  none  of  that  indifference 
on  seeing  them,  which  had  been  manifested  by  the  King,  and  which  1 
believe  to  have  been  affectation,  but  on  the  contrary,  expressed  such 
wonder  and  admiration,  as  were  very  natural  on  beholding,  for  the  first 
time,  this  noble  animal.  The  horses  were  landed  safely,  and  in  perfect 
health,  the  same  day,  and  gave  evidence,  by  their  gambols,  of  their 
satisfaction  at  being  again  on  terra  Jirma.  They  were  then  presented 
to  the  King,  who  was  told,  that  one  had  been  also  left  at  Owhyhee  for 
him.  He  expressed  his  thanks,  but  did  not  seem  to  comprehend  their 
value. 

While  the  crowd  were  apparently  wondering  what  use  they  could 
be  put  to,  a sailor  from  our  ship  jumped  upon  the  back  of  one  and 
galloped  off  amid  the  shouts  of  the  natives,  who  with  alacrity,  opened 
a way  to  let  him  pass.  There  existed  strong  apprehensions  in  the 
minds  of  all  for  the  safety  of  the  man  ; but  when,  by  going  back  and 
forth,  they  perceived  the  docility  of  the  animal,  his  subjection  and  his 
fleetness,  they  seemed  to  form  some  little  conception  of  his  utility. 
The  King  was  among  the  number,  who  witnessed  the  temerity  of  the 
sailor ; but  with  all  his  sagacity  for  which  he  has  been  justly  praised, 
remarked,  that  he  could  not  perceive  that  the  ability  to  transport  a 
person  from  one  place  to  another,  in  less  time  than  he  could  run,  would 
be  adequate  compensation  for  the  food  he  would  consume  and  thfl 
18* 


210 


SECOND  VOYAGE. 


care  lie  would  require.  As  a dray  or  a dragoon’s  horse,  there  was 
no  prospect  of  his  being  wanted,  and  hence  our  present  was  not  very 
highly  appreciated.  In  this  we  were  much  disappointed,  hut  hoped, 
nevertheless,  that  the  king  would  be  influenced  by  our  advice  to  have 
them  well  taken  care  of ; that  they  would  increase,  and  eventually 
that  their  value  would  be  justly  estimated. 

Our  supplies  were  received  from  the  King ; for  all  which  we  paid 
the  full  price,  and  though  he  offered  us  a small  present  as  an  offset 
for  the  horses,  we  declined  its  acceptance.  Being  apprehensive  that 
our  stock  of  bread  would  not  last  till  we  reached  China,  we  hoped,  as 
a substitute,  to  procure  a good  supply  of  yams  ; but  in  this  expecta- 
tion we  were  disappointed,  as  they  were  at  this  time  unusually  scarce, 
and  therefore  we  determined  to  touch  at  the  other  islands  for 
this  purpose.  Accordingly,  on  the  2d  of  July,  we  left  Mowee,  and 
the  next  morning  anchored  in  Whyteete  Bay,  island  of  Woahoo. 

While  the  natives  were  engaged  in  collecting  our  supplies,  I made 
a long  excursion  on  shore,  among  the  beautiful  rural  scenery  in  the 
neighborhood  of  the  bay.  In  a retired  spot,  clothed  with  verdure 
and  surrounded  with  cocoa-nut  trees,  my  guide  pointed  to  the  grave 
of  my  old  friend  and  former  shipmate,  Charles  Derby,  who  died  here 
last  year,  on  board  a Boston  ship,  which  he  commanded,  from  the 
Northwest  Coast.  Charles  and  I had  sailed  many  thousand  leagues 
together,  and,  being  of  the  same  age,  the  probability  was  as  great 
when  we  parted,  that  he  would  visit  my  grave  as  I his. 

Meeting  with  but  partial  success  in  procuring  here  a supply  of 
yams,  we  left  on  the  5th,  and  passed  the  following  day,  lying  off  and 
on,  near  Atoui,  the  most  western  island  of  the  group,  with  no  better 
success ; and  then  bore  away  and  made  all  sail  to  the  westward. 
Atoui,  at  this  time,  was  independent  of  the  government  of  Tamaah- 
maali,  from  whom  we  were  bearers  of  a message  to  the  King,  pur- 
porting, that  the  ambassador,  which  had  been  sent  to  him,  together 
with  one  of  equal  rank,  must  be  sent  to  Woahoo,  within  the  space  of 
one  month,  acknowledging  him,  Tamaahmaah,  as  his  sovereign,  on 
penalty  of  a visit  with  all  his  forces.  As  the  King  did  not  come  on 
board  and  we  did  not  land,  the  message  was  given  to  one  of  the 
European  residents,  who  promised  to  convey  it,  but  said  it  would 
disregarded. 


CONVERSATION  WITH  THE  KING. 


211 


The  Sandwich  Islands  and  their  distinguished  King  have  long  been 
so  familiar  to  the  European  and  American  reader,  as  to  require  little 
to  be  said  about  them.  At  the  time  of  our  acquaintance  with  Tamaah- 
maah,  be  was  a perfect  savage,  but  evidently  destined  by  nature,  both 
physically  and  mentally,  to  be  a chief.  His  mind  was  of  a superior 
cast;  its  dictates  induced  the  politic  measure  of  seizing  and  forcibly 
keeping  Young  and  Davis,  aware  of  the  advantages  that  would  result 
from  it,  and  foreseeing,  that  good  usage  and  habit  would  reconcile 
them  to  their  fate  ; which  calculations  the  result  proved  to  have  been 
correct.  As  our  intercourse  with  these  Islands  increased,  the  danger 
of  a temporary  residence  on  shore  ceased.  Among  others,  who  at 
this  early  period  took  advantage  of  it,  was  a Mr.  Howell,  commonly 
called  Padre  Howell,  who  soon  ingratiated  himself  into  favor  with  the 
King,  and  being  struck  with  his  superiority  of  intellect,  conceived 
that  it  would  not  be  difficult  to  induce  him  to  abandon  his  idolatrous 
worship  and  substitute  one  of  rationality.  Accordingly,  he  lost  no 
opportunity,  after  acquiring  a sufficient  knowledge  of  the  language, 
to  convince  the  Chief  of  the  incapacity  for  good  or  evil  of  his  gods, 
and  of  the  power,  and  wisdom,  and  goodness  of  the  Supreme  Maker 
and  Ruler  of  the  Universe,  whom  he  worshipped.  The  first,  that  of 
the  impotency  of  the  idols,  was  without  difficulty  admitted  ; but  the 
second,  not  being  tangible,  could  not  be  comprehended.  His  mind, 
however,  appeared  to  be  dwelling  on  the  subject,  with  increased  atten- 
tion, after  each  conversation.  At  length,  one  day,  while  walking  to- 
gether, the  King  unusually  thoughtful,  and  Howell  auguring  favorably 
from  it,  the  silence  was  broken  by  the  King’s  observing,  “ You  say 
your  God  is  powerful,  wise,  good,  and  that  he  will  shield  from  harm 
those  who  truly  worship  and  adore  him  ? ” This  being  assented  to, 
then  said  the  King,  “ Give  me  proof,  by  going  and  throwing  yourself 
from  yonder  precipice,  and,  while  falling,  call  on  your  God  to  shield 
you,  and  if  you  escape  unharmed,  I will  then  embrace  the  worship  of 
vour  God.”  It  may  be  unnecessary  to  say,  that  Howell  failed  to  give 
the  desired  test,  and  that  the  king  remained  unconverted. 

The  practice  of  mutilation  was  prevalent,  on  the  decease  of  a per- 
son of  consequence.  At  this  time,  every  one  was  deficient  in  the  two 
most  prominent  upper  front  teeth,  which  had  been  knocked  out,  in 
conformity  with  the  tyranny  of  custom,  and  to  have  failed  in  giving 


212 


SECOND  VOYAGE, 


such  evidence  of  loyalty,  would  have  been  impolitic  and  unsafe. 
Gallantry  is  held  in  no  less  estimation  here  than  loyalty  ; and  feats 
are  related  to  have  been  performed  to  convince  the  adored  object  of 
devotedness  and  attachment,  which  will  bear  comparison  with  those 
of  the  renowned  days  of  chivalry.  An  instance  occurred,  a few 
days  before  our  arrival,  of  a man  swimming  from  the  village  of 
Lukina,  in  Mowee,  to  the  island  of  Ranai,  a distance  of  not  less  than 
ten  miles,  to  convince  the  idolized  damsel  of  the  truth  and  extent  of 
his  passion.  The  effect  was  unknown  at  the  period  of  our  departure, 
but  it  rnay  be  presumed  to  have  been  irresistible. 

The  abuse  of  power,  in  the  most  unprincipled  and  even  cruel  acts, 
lias  frequently  been  charged  to  our  countrymen,  while  pursuing  their 
avocations  in  these  distant  regions,  and  I am  sorry  to  say  not  without 
foundation.  To  such  conduct  may  reasonably  be  attributed  the  hos- 
tility of  the  Indians,  the  loss  of  many  innocent  lives,  and  of  much 
property.  Two  instances  in  point,  of  recent  date,  were,  at  this  time, 
the  general  theme  of  conversation  among  the  foreigners  at  Mowee. 
The  first,  that  of  a Captain  B , in  a schooner  belonging  to  Phila- 

delphia, who  seized  some  unsuspecting  Chiefs  on  the  Northwest  Coast, 
while  visiting  him,  and  released  them  only  on  being  paid  a ransom  in 
skins,  by  their  people.  The  second,  that  of  Captain  II , of  Nan- 

tucket, and  Master  of  the  schooner  Nancy  of  Boston,  engaged  in  the 
seal-skin  business.  This  vessel,  during  the  unfavorable  season  at 
Masafuera,  went  to  Easter  Island,  where  the  natives  came  on  board 
with  a confidence  inspired  by  the  good  treatment  they  had  usually 
experienced  from  other  vessels  which  had  visited  them.  When  on  the 
point  of  sailing,  he  decoyed  six  of  them  below,  closed  the  hatches 
over  them,  and  went  to  sea.  His  object  was  to  take  them  to  Masafu- 
era, and  employ  them  in  taking  and  skinning  seals,  and  afterwards, 
probably,  to  return  them  unharmed  to  their  native  island  and  friends. 
It  is  presumable,  that  they  were  as  well  treated  as  a regard  to  their 
security  would  admit.  Be  this,  however,  as  it  may,  when  the  land 
was  no  longer  in  sight,  there  was  supposed  to  be  no  danger  of  an 
attempt  to  escape,  and  consequently  they  were  allowed  to  come  on 
deck,  when,  without  a moment’s  hesitation,  they  all  simultaneously 
threw  themselves  into  the  sea.  The  boat  was  lowered  down  and  every 
effort  made  to  save  them,  but  in  vain,  as,  being  expert  swimmers, 


VISIT  THE  GOVERNOR. 


213 


they  used  their  greatest  exertions  to  avoid  the  boat,  thus  evincing  a 
preference  of  death  to -slavery.* 

On  the  7th  of  July,  1803,  having  ascertained  that  we  could  obtain 
no  supplies  without  losing  more  time  than  they  were  worth,  we  made 
sail  to  the  westward,  with  the  intention  of  touching  at  the  Island  of 
juara  ; and  came  in  sight  of  that  island  on  the  evening  of  the  29th. 
The  next  morning  early,  we  doubled  round  the  nortli  end  of  the 
island,  and  came  in  sight  of  the  castle,  situated  on  a hill.  Soon  after, 
on  opening  the  bay,  the  town  of  St.  Ignacio  de  Agam  was  presented 
to  our  view,  making  a very  pretty  appearance  ; the  white  houses  con- 
trasting with  the  beautiful  foliage  of  the  trees,  by  which  they  were 
shaded,  and  the  distance  beyond  having  the  appearance  of  a dense 
forest  of  the  most  luxurious  growth. 

Mr.  Shaler  went  on  shore  and  visited  the  Governor,  who  treated 
him  with  much  civility,  promised  to  have  procured  for  him  immedi- 
ately the  supplies  required,  and  invited  him  to  remain  to  dinner.  As 
we  intended  remaining  only  long  enough  for  collecting  these  supplies, 
or,  if  not  procurable  without  delay,  to  be  off  without  them,  we  did 
not  come  to  anchor,  but  lay  off  and  on,  near  the  town.  In  the  after- 
noon, Mr.  Shaler  returned  on  board,  accompanied  by  the  wife  of  the 
Governor,  her  female  attendants,  and  three  officers  of  the  garrison. 
These  guests  remained  with  us  until  the  boats  came  off  with  our  sup- 
plies, in  which  they  returned  on  shore,  having  expressed  themselves 
much  pleased  with  their  visit,  and  promising  to  offer  up  petitions  to 
the  Virgin  for  our  safety  and  happiness.  On  their  leaving  us,  towards 
evening,  we  steered  again  to  the  westward  with  all  sail  spread. 

Guam  is  the  southernmost  of  the  Marian  Islands ; it  is  but  of' 
moderate  height,  of  even  surface,  and  is  covered  with  trees,  even  to  the 
water’s  edge.  There  are  estimated  to  be  between  five  and  six  thou- 
sand inhabitants,  about  nine  tenths  of  whom  are  natives  and  Malays. 
The  garrison  consists  of  one  hundred  and  thirty  soldiers,  and  the 
annual  expense  to  Spain  is  twenty  thousand  dollars.  As  no  article 
of  commerce  is  produced  here,  but  the  Beche  de  Mar,  and  even  this 
only  in  small  quantities,  there  seems  to  exist  no  other  inducement  for 


This  was  related  to  me  by  a person  who  was  at  Masafuera  when  the  schooner 
t^ancy  arriyed  there  from  Easter  Island. 


214 


SECOND  VOYAGE. 


the  maintenance  of  this  establishment,  than  to  prevent  this  group  of 
islands  being  taken  possession  of  by  any  other  people. 

On  the  8th  of  August,  we  had  advanced  about  ten  degrees  west  of 
the  Marian  Islands,  when  we  had  undoubted  indications  of  approach- 
ing bad  weather.  And  as  at  this  season  of  the  year,  particularly,  it 
is  advisable  to  be  cautious,  our  top-gallant  yards  were  sent  down,  and 
our  topsails  double  reefed,  before  night,  the  wind  strong  from  south- 
west with  rain.  Early  in  the  morning,  the  wind  and  sea  having 
increased,  we  reduced  our  sails  to  a close-reefed  main-topsail  and 
foresail,  and  housed  the  top-gallant  masts.  The  wind  still  increasing, 
compelled  us  to  heave  to  under  storm  staysails.  We  had  now  a con- 
tinual succession  of  the  most  violent  squalls,  accompanied  with 
torrents  of  rain  ; these  shifted  every  two  or  three  hours,  from  west- 
southwest  to  north,  and  north-northwest,  blowing  in  opposite  directions 
with  equal  fury,  and  causing  so  great  and  irregular  a sea,  as  to 
threaten  sweeping  every  thing  from  our  decks,  particularly  when, 
between  the  shifting  of  the  winds  there  were  a few  moments  of  calm  ; 
and  when  from  the  excessive  deep  and  quick  rolling,  there  was  great 
cause  to  apprehend  the  loss  of  our  masts.  This  weather  continued 
for  twelve  hours,  and  was  followed  by  gales  from  the  westward  and 
from  the  southward,  with  scarcely  any  intermission  until  the  16th, 
when  the  weather  became  settled  from  the  eastward.  This  was  a 
harder  gale,  and  more  severe  weather  than  any  we  experienced  of] 
Cape  Horn. 

In  the  evening  of  the  19th,  we  passed  the  Bashi  Islands.  On  the 
23d,  we  came  in  sight  of  Piedra  Blanca ; after  passing  which,  we  had 
much  calm  weather,  which  obliged  us  to  anchor  several  times,  and 
thus  prevented  us  from  gaining  the  anchorage  in  Macao  Roads  till  the 
26th.  A pilot  was  procured  the  next  day,  when  we  weighed  anchor 
and  proceeded  towards  the  river ; but,  owing  to  adverse  winds  and 
currents,  we  did  not  reach  Whampoa  till  the  29th.  The  next  day  we 
went  to  Canton,  and  were  hospitably  received,  and  lodged  at  the 
factory  of  Captain  Smith  of  the  Semirarnis,  of  Newport,  while  a 
factory  which  had  been  engaged  was  preparing  for  us.  This  being 
accomplished  on  the  1st  of  September,  we  took  possession,  and  waited 
Ihe  result  of  various  permits  we  had  given  to  merchants,  for  the 
examination  of  the  cargo.  At  length  we  accepted  the  proposition 


HONG  MERCHANT. 


215 


ivhich  appeared  to  be  most  eligible.  This  gave  us  a very  handsome 
profit  on  the  skins,  which  were  to  be  paid  for  in  teas  at  the  current 
price  ; and  our  intention  was  to  lade  with  ihem  for  the  United  States. 

While  making  preparation  to  receive  the  teas,  an  American  ship 
arrived  from  the  Spanish  coast  with  the  greater  part  of  her  outward 
cargo  on  board.  This  it  was  found  could  be  bought  for  less  than  first 
cost,  in  exchange  for  teas  ; and  as,  also,  a large  amount  of  our 
European  investment  was  still  on  hand,  these  causes  combined  to 
point  to  the  propriety  of  making  another  attempt  on  the  California 
coast.  When  Mr.  Shaler  volunteered  to  undertake  this  voyage,  there 
were  so  many  applications  to  be  interested,  that  we  decided  to  take 
an  interest  of  only  one  half  the  vessel  and  cargo,  and  consequently 
disposed  of  the  other  half  to  our  American  friends. 

The  sheathing  of  the  ship  being  in  a very  bad  state,  there  existed  a 
necessity  for  its  renewal,  and  this  was  a labor  of  no  trifling  magnitude 
in  a place  like  Whampoa,  where  there  were  no  conveniences  for  the 
purpose,  and  where  probably  an  attempt  of  the  kind  was  never  before 
made.  But  we  found  our  countrymen  ready  and  desirous  of  giving 
us  all  the  aid  in  their  power.  One  whose  ship  was  waiting  cargo 
permitted  us  to  heave  out  by  her,  another  loaned  us  blocks  for  the 
purpose,  and  the  carpenters  attached  to  the  various  ships,  who  could 
be  spared,  came  to  the  work  with  alacrity  for  liberal  pay  ; so  that 
the  business  was  accomplished  in  very  little  more  time  than  would 
have  been  required  for  the  purpose,  if  we  had  possessed  the  ordinary 
conveniences.  There  is  often  experienced  abroad,  among  our  fellow- 
citizens,  a liberality,  a generosity,  a feeling  of  brotherhood,  which 
prompts  to  the  performance  of  the  most  noble  and  disinterested  acts, 
and  which  at  home  are  known  only  to  family  alliances.  Of  this 
description  was  our  experience  at  this  time,  and  the  recollection  of  it 
has  aided  in  ameliorating  the  asperity  caused  since,  by  an  opposing 
experience  in  a repeated  abuse  of  confidence,  producing  the  most 
disastrous  effects. 

Our  former  experience  of  the  high  estimation  of  the  character  of 
the  Hong  merchant  to  whom  we  had  sold  our  cargo,  induced  us  tc 
place  a reliance  on  his  assurance  of  the  good  quality  of  four  hundred 
chests  of  teas  received  from  him,  which  we  ought  not  to  have  done 
This  tea  was  to  be  received  in  part  payment  of  'lie  cargo  destined 


216 


SECOND  VOYAGE. 


for  California  , but  the  person  who  was  to  receive  it  was  less  disposed 
than  we  had  been  to  confide  in  Chinese  honor,  however  high  the 
character  of  the  individual  in  question  might  stand.  Accordingly,  on 
examination,  he  found  the  teas,  instead  of  very  good,  to  be  of  very 
ordinary  quality.  When  this  discovery  was  made  known  to  the  Hong 
merchant,  he  did  not  attempt  an  apology ; but,  to  avoid  the  exposure 
that  would  be  made  by  a controversy,  changed  them  at  once  for  such 
as  had  been  agreed  for. 

During  the  preceding  transactions,  I had  been  engaged  in  preparing 
an  investment  of  silks  suitable  for  the  American  market.  When 
these  were  ready,  I contracted  for  their  freight,  and  to  embark  as 
passenger  for  Boston,  in  the  ship  Alert,  Captain  Ebbets. 


CHAPTER  XVII. 


Parting  with  Mr.  Shaler  — Origin  of  our  Acquaintance  — Observations  — Embark  for 
Boston  — Touch  at  North  Island  — Pass  the  Isle  of  Bourbon  — Arrive  at  the  Cape 
of  Good  Hope  — Reflections  — Departure  from  the  Cape  of  Good  Hope  — Arrival  at 
Boston  — Lelia  Byrd  sails  for  California — Disaster  — Difficulty  of  making  Repairs 
— Arrive  at  the  Sandwich  Islands  — Barter  with  the  King  — Place  the  Cargo  in  his 
Power  — Dishonorable  Conduct  — Expedite  the  Tamana  — Mr.  Hudson  — His  Voy- 
age— Return  and  Death. — Lelia  Byrd  — Apology  for  the  Voyage. 


It  separation  here  with  my  long  tried,  much  esteemed 
and  affectionate  friend,  Shaler,  was  not  unattended 
with  painful  emotions.  We  had  shared  abundantly 
in  those  dangers,  toils,  and  anxieties,  no  less  than 
in  those  pleasures  and  recreations,  which  combine 
© so  forcibly  to  cement  the  bonds  of  friendship.  Our 
© acquaintance  began  at  the  Isle  of  France,  in  the 
year  1800,  where  we  lived  together,  at  the  Con- 
sular residence,  ten  months.  We  then  embarked  in  the 
Cronberg,  and  were  fellow-passengers  to  Copenhagen. 
The  voyage  now  narrated,  down  to  the  period  of  our 
separation,  having  occupied  more  than  two  years,  com- 
pleted an  aggregate,  exceeding  four  years,  that  we  had  lived 
0 together  in  the  closest  intimacy.  The  many  instances,  that 
had  come  within  our  observation,  of  intimate  friends’  becom- 
ing alienated  from  differing  in  opinion  on  the  merest  trifles 
in  the  world,  had  suggested  to  us  the  propriety  of  pondering  well  on 
our  ability  to  sustain,  harmoniously,  the  contemplated  alliance,  in 
affairs  of  greater  importance.  Nothing  short  of  our  mutual  experi- 
ence of  each  other’s  temper  and  disposition,  could  justify  the  presump- 
tion implied,  of  the  power  to  maintain  the  harmony  required,  in  a 
voyage  of  ordinary  character,  between  two  persons,  equally  inter- 
19 


218 


SECOND  VOYAGE. 


ested  in  the  property,  equally  competent  to  taking  charge  of  the  nau- 
tical and  mercantile  part  of  the  business,  and  on  a perfect  footing  of 
equality,  in  every  thing  relating  to  the  management  of  the  ship,  as 
well  as  that  of  the  cargo.  But  in  an  enterprise,  involving  so 
much  difficulty  and  danger,  so  much  to  perplex  and  irritate,  with 
so  little  success  to  cheer  the  spirits  and  promote  equanimity 
of  temper,  — that  we  should  be  able  to  accomplish  it  without  a rup- 
ture, is  surprising;  how  much  more  so,  than  that  we  never  had 
an  angry  dispute,  and  parted  with  feelings  of  affection,  increased 
Oy  the  very  difficulties  and  embarrassments  we  had  encountered 
together. 

Having  embarked  my  freight  on  board  the  Alert,  and  that  ship 
oeing  ready  on  the  4th  of  January,  1804,  we  dropped  down  the 
river,  in  company  with  the  ship  Hanover,  Captain  Barney,  with  whom 
an  engagement  was  made  to  keep  company  until  we  were  clear  of 
the  straits.  It  was  soon  perceived,  that  the  Alert  greatly  outsailed  the 
Hanover,  and  that  our  passage  was  much  retarded  by  shortening  sail 
for  hers.  We,  however,  arrived  together,  at  North  Island,  where, 
while  engaged  in  filling  up  our  water-casks,  numerous  Malays  came 
down  to  the  Sumatra  shore,  to  exchange  their  fruits  and  a great  vari- 
ety of  monkeys,  for  old  clothes.  The  object,  for  which  we  touched 
at  this  island,  being  accomplished,  on  the  28th  the  anchor  was  again 
weighed,  and  the  sails  spread  to  the  breeze.  We  passed  Java  Head 
the  next  day,  came  in  sight  of  the  Isle  of  Bourbon  on  the  21st  of 
February,  and  arrived  in  Table  Bay,  Cape  of  Good  Hope,  on  the 
10th  of  March,  having  seen  nothing  of  the  Hanover  since  the  evening 
of  leaving  North  Island. 

Repeated  visits  to  the  Cape  of  Good  Hope  had  been  productive  of 
the  most  agreeable  associations  with  that  delightful  place  ; and  the 
renewal  of  acquaintance  with  many  good  people,  whose  kindness 
and  hospitality  I had  experienced  in  “ by-gone  days,”  caused  the 
time  to  pass  off  quickly  and  agreeably.  Such  are  among  the 
soothing  satisfactory  incidents,  occasionally  met  with  by  those, 
whose  business  is  on  the  ocean,  and  which  tend,  if  not  to  obviate, 
at  least  to  lessen  the  tedium  and  monotony  peculiar  to  the  profes- 
sion. 

Having  passed  five  days,  very  pleasantly,  with  our  friends  at  the 


SAIL  FOR  BOSTON. 


219 


Cape,  we  bade  them  adieu  on  the  15th,  and  sailed  To;  Boston,  Our 
passage  was  marked  by  no  interruption  to  the  fine  weather  and 
smooth  sea  peculiar  to  the  tract  of  ocean,  comprised  between  the 
Cape  of  Good  Hope  and  the  latitude  of  Bermuda.  Yet  sailing  for  sc 
long  a time,  with  fair  and  gentle  breezes,  without  even  one  such 
little  exciting  incident,  as  the  gale  which  requires  the  topsails  to 
be  reefed,  becomes  tiresome  by  its  monotony  ; and  something  like 
it  may  be  realized  by  the  man  who  is  born  to  fortune,  reared  in 
the  lap  of  ease,  and  has  never  been  acquainted  with  aught  but 
life’s  smiles  and  sunshine.  We  arrived  safely  at  Boston  on  the 
14th  of  May,  1804.  Nearly  eight  years  had  elapsed  since  my 
departure  from  home  ; and  the  period  had  been  prolific  of  events 
of  opposing  characters,  and  producing  corresponding  emotions, 
which  can  be  properly  estimated  by  those  only  who  have  had  similar 
experience. 

My  invoice  of  silks  arrived  at  a very  good  market,  and  were  sold 
advantageously.  Had  that  part  of  our  adventure,  which  was  under 
the  direction  of  my  friend  Shaler,  done  as  well,  the  necessity  for  my 
navigating  again  would  have  been  obviated.  But  a scene  of  disasters 
attended  him,  which  resulted  in  nearly  a total  krss  of  the  property 
under  his  charge.  As  this  is  a part  of  the  Lelia  Byrd’s  voyage, 
so  intimately  connected  with  that  already  narrated,  as  to  form,  in 
fact,  part  of  a whole,  I have  considered  it  proper  to  give  the  outlines 
of  it,  though  it  be  only  from  memory. 

A few  days  after  my  departure  from  Canton,  Mr.  Shaler  sailed 
from  thence,  bound  to  the  coast  of  California,  where  he  arrived  with- 
out accident.  He  had  been  on  that  coast  but  a few  weeks,  and  had 
disposed  of  but  a small  amount  of  cargo,  when,  unfortunately,  the 
ship  struck  on  a shoal,  and  beat  so  heavily,  before  getting  otF,  as  to 
cause  her  to  leak  alarmingly.  His  situation  was  now  one  of  great 
embarrassment.  To  have  sought  relief  in  any  of  the  neighboring 
ports,  after  such  notoriety,  would  have  been  subjecting  the  vessel  and 
cargo  to  seizure  ; to  have  attempted  to  reach  the  Sandwich  Islands, 
while  they  could  hardly  keep  the  ship  afloat  in  smooth  water,  would 
have  been  highly  imprudent.  There  seemed,  then,  to  be  no  other 
alternative,  than  to  go  to  one  of  the  desert  islands  in  the  neighbor- 
hood,  land  the  cargo,  and  heave  the  ship  out,  or  lay  her  on  shore. 


220 


SECOND  VOYAGE. 


They  succeeded  in  arriving  at  one  of  the  group,  among  which  is  St. 
Clement’s.  Here  they  found  a snug  harbor,  which  offered  scarcely 
any  other  advantage  than  its  solitude,  and  its  shield  from  the  effects 
of  sea  and  wind.  The  tide  did  not  ebb  sufficiently  to  enable  them  to 
come  to  the  leaks  by  laying  her  on  shore  ; and  in  attempting  to  heave 
her  keel  out  she  filled  and  sank.  Fortunately,  the  water  was  so  shoal 
as  not  to  cover  the  deck  ; and  she  was  again  pumped  dry.  it  was 
now  evident,  that  they  could  not  make  such  repairs  as  would  allow 
them  to  prosecute  the  voyage  ; and  to  stop  the  leaks  sufficiently,  to 
enable  them  to  reach  the  Sandwich  Islands,  seemed  to  be  the  only 
way  to  avoid  the  total  loss  of  the  property.  The  repairs  they  were 
able  to  make,  were  done  in  so  imperfect  a manner,  as  would  have 
made  it  unjustifiable  to  attempt  any  other  passage,  than  one  where  they 
might  presume  on  good  weather  and  a fair  wind  all  the  way,  like  the 
one  contemplated.  With  these  advantages,  however,  it  was  not  without 
incessant  labor  at  the  pumps,  that  t,.ey  were  able  to  reach  the  Sandwich 
Islands. 

An  attempt  to  repair  the  ship,  wdth  the  very  inadequate  means 
which  were  available  here,  was  discouraging,  from  the  great  length 
of  time  it  would  require.  No  foreign  vessel  was  procurable,  to 
return  to  the  coast  with  the  cargo.  To  freight  a ship  with  it  to  China, 
would  have  been  easy  ; but  then  it  would  be  transporting  it  to  where 
the  loss  on  a re-sale  would  be  very  heavy.  In  this  dilemma,  it  was 
decided,  as  a choice  of  difficulties,  to  barter  with  Tamaahmaah  the 
Lelia  Byrd  for  a little  vessel  of  thirty  or  forty  tons,  which  had  been 
built  on  the  island.  This  was  a negotiation  of  greater  magnitude 
than  the  King  had  ever  before  participated  in  ; and  the  importance  of 
which  was  sensibly  felt  by  him.  To  place  a cargo  of  such  value, 
and  composed  of  such  a variety  of  articles,  so  tempting  to  the  sav- 
age, in  detail,  and  of  such  inestimable  value,  in  the  aggregate,  in  the 
power  of  this  barbarian,  relying  entirely  on  his  honor  for  its  restora- 
tion, could  be  justified  only  by  the  pressing  necessity  which  existed. 
The  confidence  placed  in  this  Chief,  though  reluctantly,  was  proved 
by  the  event  to  have  been  well  merited.  The  cargo  was  receiv- 
ed into  his  store,  and  when  the  schooner  was  ready  it  was  all 
.'aithfully  and  honorably  delivered  to  the  person  appointed  to 
receive  it. 


SERIES  OF  LOSSES. 


221 


To  the  schooner  was  given  the  name  of  the  Queen,  Tamana,  and 
Mr.  John  T.  Hudson,  a young  man  who  had  been  attached  to  the  ship 
since  leaving  Valparaiso,  was  intrusted  with  the  charge  of  the  voyage. 
The  difficulties  of  such  an  enterprise  in  a suitable  vessel  have  been 
already  narrated  ; these  were  greatly  increased  by  the  small  size  of 
the  Tamana  and  the  consequent  feebleness  of  the  crew.  Persever- 
ance and  industry,  however,  on  the  part  of  Mr.  Hudson,  appear  not  to 
have  been  wanting ; but  prudence  forbade  his  entering  a port  of 
strength  ; and  the  sales  to  be  made  among  the  missions  and  in  barter 
with  the  Indians  were  of  small  amount.  Nor  did  he  meet  with  any 
success  in  collecting  from  the  missionaries  any  part  of  the  sums  due 
from  them  for  goods,  with  which  Mr.  Shaler  had  credited  them, 
though  the  hope  of  recovering  these  had  been  a considerable  induce- 
ment in  expediting  this  vessel.  After  visiting  most  of  the  missions  in 
California,  and  navigating  its  coast  from  one  extremity  to  the  other, 
during  a period  of  between  five  and  six  months,  without  effecting  any 
sales  of  importance,  his  patience  as  well  as  that  of  his  crew  being 
exhausted,  and  his  provisions  running  short,  he  returned  in  safety  to 
the  Sandwich  Islands.  Here  he  disposed  of  the  Tamana,  took  pas- 
sage to  China,  and  thence  to  the  United  States,  with  but  a small  sum 
left  for  the  owners,  after  paying  all  the  disbursements.  Mr.  Shaler 
had  preceded  him,  one  year,  to  the  United  States,  and  waited  there 
his  arrival.  The  tragical  end  of  Mr.  Hudson,  at  Providence,  soon 
after  his  arrival,  prevented  for  ever  the  desired  meeting.  The  Lelia 
Byrd  was  repaired  by  the  King,  and  made  two  or  three  voyages  to 
China,  with  sandal-wood.  At  length,  worn  out,  and  aftei  being  for  a 
time  a receiving  ship  for  opium,  she  was  broken  up  or  sunk  at 
Whampoa. 

Something  ought  to  be  said,  if  not  to  justify,  at  least  to  extenuate, 
the  undertaking  and  prosecuting  an  enterprise,  for  the  success  of 
which,  violence  and  stratagem  were  requisite.  It  is  notorious,  that 
no  civilized  people  on  the  face  of  the  earth  were  ever  subjected  to  so 
degrading  a stale  of  vassalage  as  the  Creoles,  or  native  inhabitants  of 
Spanish  America.  It  is  equally  notorious,  that  they  were  sensible  of 
it  and  were  grateful  to  those  strangers,  who  supplied  them  with  cloth- 
ing at  half  the  ordinary  prices  demanded  by  their  own  merchants,  who 
sympathized  with  them  and  made  known  to  them  the  course,  which 
19* 


222 


SECOND  VOYAGE. 


their  countrymen  had  taken,  in  precisely  similar  circumstances,  to 
achieve  their  independence.  As  it  respected  our  intercourse  with 
this  people,  viewed  separately  from  the  government,  it  was  precisely 
in  conformity  with  the  golden  rule  of  “ doing  unto  others  as  in  like 
circumstances  we  would  have  others  do  unto  us.”  Hence  we  lost  no 
opportunity  of  confirming  the  advocates  of  free  government,  and  con- 
vincing the  wavering  of  the  self-evident  proposition,  that  governments 
were  insti  uted  for  the  happiness  of  the  people,  and  not,  exclusively, 
for  that  of  the  rulers;  that  all  power  of  right  belongs  to  and  emanates 
from  the  people,  whose  servants  the  rulers  are.  Consequently,  when 
by  force,  stratagem,  or  any  other  manner,  this  relation  between  people 
and  rulers  had  become  reversed,  it  was  a palpable  usurpation  on  the 
part  of  the  latter,  which  it  was  proper  and  becoming  to  resist  under 
any  circumstances,  and  more  especially  when  the  usurped  power  was 
used  to  oppress  and  enslave. 

To  give  lessons  to  this  people,  however,  on  the  relations  of  gover- 
nors and  governed,  or  to  aid  them  in  the  means  of  emancipation 
from  the  degradation,  to  a sense  of  which  they  were  beginning  to  wake 
up,  was  not  the  object  of  our  voyage  ; nor  did  we  anticipate  the  diffi- 
culties we  experienced.  We  had  ascertained,  that,  for  several  years 
previous  to  the  peace  of  Amiens,  the  Spanish  colonies  had  become  so 
destitute  of  the  manufactures  of  Europe,  that  the  rigor  of  the  gov- 
ernment to  prevent  their  entry  was  very  much  mitigated.  And  it 
was  the  expectation  of  a continuation  of  this  policy,  and  which  the 
peace  of  Amiens  put  an  end  to,  that  made  the  prospect  flattering,  and 
induced  us  to  undertake  the  voyage.  When  once  embarked  in  it, 
there  remained  to  us  the  choice,  only,  to  retreat  and  submit  to  great 
loss,  or  to  pursue  the  hazardous  course  narrated,  and  take  our  chance 
for  the  result.  That  result  will  be  perceived,  by  the  preceding  narra- 
tive, to  have  been  in  no  degree  commensurate  with  the  hazard,  toil, 
and  anxiety  we  encountered. 

As  a testimony  of  undeviating  fidelity,  it  is  only  a just  tribute  to 
the  memory  of  George,  the  black  man,  to  say,  that,  throughout  this 
long  and  troublesome  voyage,  he  performed  the  part  of  a faithful 
ship-steward  ; that  there  was  none  so  entirely  to  be  depended  on  in 
such  an  emergency  as  that  at  San  Diego,  and  that  his  services  were 
duly  appreciated.  His  habits  were  expensive,  and,  notwithstanding 


DEATH  OF  GEORGE. 


223 


the  years  he  had  been  on  constant  pay  and  high  wages  with  me,  I 
never  could  persuade  him  to  lay  by  any  thing.  He  accompanied  me 
from  China  to  Boston  in  the  Alert,  remained  with  me  as  a domestic 
about  a year  after,  and  then  died  at  Roxbury,  and  is  buried  in  the 
Roxbury  cemetery. 


CHAPTER  XVIII. 


Cause  of  again  Voyaging  — Destination  — Suspicion  of  the  Quakers  — Sail  from 
New  York  — A Gale  — Dismasted  — Arrive  at  Rio  Janeiro  — The  Visit  — Allowed 
Forty-five  Days  to  repair  — Rig  the  Vessel  as  a Brig  — Obstacles  to  Changing  the 
Voyage — Obviated  — Dispose  of  the  Cargo  — Buy  a Ship  and  Cargo  of  Beef — 
Despatch  the  Aspasia  by  the  Mate  — Go  to  St.  Catharine’s  in  the  Ship  — Descrip- 
tion— Sail  for  Havana  — Boarded  twice — Cochrane's  Fleet — Boarding  Officer 
— A Contrast  to  his  Commander  — Ordered  for  Tortola  — Taken  Possession  of  by 
the  Cerberus  Frigate. 


in  my  enterprises,  a spirit  of 
adventure  united  with  that  of  acquisition,  had 
been  the  motive  of  action  ; but  henceforth  the 
latter  was  to  act  alone. 

The  voyage  in  the  Lelia  Byrd,  under  the  exclu- 
sive direction  of  Mr.  Shaler,  proved  a very  unfor- 
tunate one.  Owing  to  some  informality  in  the 
protest,  we  failed  to  recover  any  thing  from  the 
underwriters.  The  attempt  made  under  the  direction 
of  Mr.  Hudson  to  retrieve  our  affairs,  by  a return  to 
the  coast  of  California  with  that  part  of  the  cargo 
which  remained  unsold,  in  a little  vessel  which  had 
been  built  at  the  island,  and  had  been  taken  in  exchange  for 
the  Lelia  Byrd,  was  unsuccessful.  The  large  amount  cred- 
ited to  the  missionaries  of  California,  on  their  simple  notes, 
was  a total  loss.  Only  four  of  the  twenty  priests  of  the  various 
missions  scattered  along  the  coast,  to  whom  we  had  given  credit, 
were  sufficiently  honest  to  redeem  their  notes.  The  amount  which 
we  bad  placed  in  charge  of  our  friend  Rouissillon,  to  be  accounted 
for  by  him  on  his  arrival  in  the  United  States,  was  also  lost  by  the 
unfortunate  death  of  that  gentleman  at  Mexico.  These  combined 
losses  had  made  such  an  inroad  on  our  fortunes  as  to  make  renewed 


VOYAGE  TO  CHILI. 


225 


exertions  necessary  to  retrieve  them.  Nor  were  the  domestic  obliga- 
tions, which  I had  recently  contracted,  less  influential  in  stimulating 
to  great  efforts  and  great  self-denial,  for  the  attainment  of  an  object 
which  had  become  incalculably  more  desirable  and  important  to  me 
in  consequence. 

The  common  and  every-day  voyages  to  Europe,  India,  and  China, 
which  presented  the  prospect  of  only  moderate  profit,  but  with  entire 
safety,  were  less  in  harmony  with  my  inclination  and  habits,  than  those 
of  a more  enterprising  character,  which  promised  greater  advantage, 
though  with  increased  risk.  The  war  succeeding  the  short  peace  of 
Amiens,  had  again  closed  the  ports  of  the  Spanish  colonies  to  any 
commerce  in  their  own  ships  ; and  they  must,  therefore,  again  rely 
exclusively  on  foreign  flags  for  the  requisite  supply  of  European 
manufactures.  A voyage  to  the  coasts  of  Chili  and  Peru,  tnen  pre- 
senting greater  prospects  of  profit,  in  proportion  to  the  risk,  than  any 
other,  Mr.  Shaler  and  myself  again  united  our  fortunes  in  such  an 
adventure  under  my  direction.  In  June,  1806,  we  purchased  in  New 
York,  the  Aspasia,  a Baltimore  clipper-built  schooner  of  a hundred 
and  seventy  tons,  which  had  been  recently  coppered  to  the  wales. 
This  vessel  was  fitted  with  every  thing  requisite  for  the  voyage,  not 
emitting  a suitable  armament.  This  last  circumstance  excited  the 
suspicion  of  some  of  the  worthy  fraternity  of  Friends,  that  our  des- 
tination was  to  Africa  for  slaves  ; but  they  were  quieted  on  my  as- 
surance that  I had  no  such  intention,  and  moreover,  that  they  did 
not  hold  this  cruel  traffic  in  greater  horror  and  detestation  than  I did. 

As  the  late  master  of  the  Aspasia  could  have  no  motive  to  deceive 
me,  I relied  on  his  assurance,  that  the  spars  were  perfectly  sound  and 
in  good  condition  ; nor  did  our  sad  experience  to  the  contrary  induce 
the  belief  of  any  want  of  good  faith  on  his  part.  A cargo,  such  as 
experience  had  taught  us  was  best  suited  to  the  wants  of  the  people 
for  whom  it  was  destined,  was  purchased  at  New  York,  and  with  the 
vessel,  was  owned  equally  by  Mr.  Shaler  and  myself,  absorbing  about 
the  whole  amount  of  the  fortunes  of  each,  a portion  only  of  which 
was  covered  by  insurance,  at  a very  high  premium.  Our  ship’s  com- 
pany was  one  third  more  than  a usual  complement  for  this  vessel, 
making  altogether  sixteen  persons. 

Being  all  ready  for  sea  on  the  morning  of  the  10th  of  August,  180b 


226 


THIRD  VOYAGE. 


and  having  a fine  breeze  from  the  westward,  the  pilot,  true  to  his  en 
gagement,  came  on  board  and  conducted  us  outside  of  Sandy  Hook. 
He  then  left  us,  to  board  a vessel  bound  in.  The  wind  was  very 
light,  and  the  ocean  so  smooth,  presenting  truly  “ the  unruffled  sur- 
face of  a summer’s  sea,”  that  it  was  late  in  the  afternoon  before  we 
lost  sight  of  the  highlands  of  Neversink. 

A succession  of  light  winds  and  calm  weather,  not  unusual  at  this 
season  of  the  year,  rendered  the  first  part  of  our  passage  very  tedi- 
ous ; and  it  was  not  until  the  10th  of  September,  that  we  took  the 
trade  winds,  being  then  in  latitude  20°  north,  and  longitude  27°  west  of 
Greenwich.  But  it  seemed  as  if  the  long  calm  had  been  only  a prelude 
to  a gale  in  a parallel  where  it  was  entirely  unexpected.  During  the  day, 
our  sails  were  double-reefed,  the  wind  so  far  to  the  eastward  as  to  bring 
the  sea  very  much  on  the  beam,  causing  much  water  to  be  shipped. 
Presuming  on  the  swift  sailing  of  the  vessel,  we  had  steered  a course 
further  to  the  westward  in  this  latitude,  than  would  have  been  consid- 
ered prudent  in  vessels  of  the  ordinary  rate  of  sailing  ; hence  it  was 
particularly  desirable  that  no  spar  should  be  carried  away,  and  that 
no  other  accident  should  happen,  which  might  cause  the  risk  of  fall- 
ing to  leeward  of  Cape  St.  Roque. 

At  sunset,  as  there  was  no  diminution  of  the  gale,  and  the  sea  had 
increased,  our  sail  was  reduced,  by  taking  off  the  bonnets  from  the 
foresail  and  jib,  and  taking  a third  reef  in  the  mainsail.  Under  this 
reduced  sail  we  were  making  ten  knots  an  hour.  At  this  rate  we  con- 
tinued going  until  the  middle  watch  had  half  expired,  when,  immedi- 
ately after  the  helm  was  relieved,  a tremendous  crash  was  heard, 
and  at  the  same  moment  the  foremast  was  seen  to  be  falling  over  to 
leeward.  Its  weight,  together  with  the  topmast-yards,  sails,  and  rig- 
ging attached  to  it  was  too  heavy  to  be  supported  by  the  bowsprit,  and 
that  broke  off  near  the  stem.  The  vessel,  no  longer  mindful  of  her 
helm,  came  up  into  the  wind.  The  scene  now  for  a few  moments, 
was  one  of  dismay.  The  darkness  of  the  night,  the  roaring  sea,  the 
howling  wind,  the  quick  and  sharp  rolling  of  the  vessel,  unchecked  by 
any  sail,  the  hard  thumping  against  the  vessel  of  the  spars  which  had 
fallen  alongside,  and  which  threatened  mischief,  and  the  difficulty  of 
coming  at  the  rigging,  which  held  the  spars,  in  order  to  cut  it  away, 
all  combined  to  make  our  situation  one  of  great  perplexity.  At  each 


DISMASTED. 


227 


roll  of  the  vessel  to  windward,  the  stay,  which  from  the  head  of  the 
mainmast  was  attached  to  that  of  the  foremast,  raising  it  out  of  the 
water,  and  causing  a strain  which  threatened  the  loss  of  the  main- 
mast, made  it  requisite  to  cut  away  that  stay  as  soon  as  possible. — 
This  could  be  done  only  at  the  mainmast  head  ; but  to  get  there  wae 
a very  difficult  task,  owing  to  the  shrouds  being  greatly  slackened  by 
one  roll,  and  brought  up  with  a sudden  jerk  on  the  opposite.  At  the 
first  attempt,  the  man  had  ascended  about  half  way,  when  he  was 
thrown  off  by  one  of  those  sudden  jerks,  but  fortunately  was  saved 
from  destruction  by  falling  into  the  mainsail,  which,  having  been 
lowered  part  way  down,  made  a cradle  for  his  reception,  and  prevent- 
ed his  receiving  any  harm.  A second  attempt  was  more  success- 
ful ; the  man  gained  the  mast-head  and  cut  away  the  stay ; but,  by 
this  time,  the  mainmast  had  become  so  badly  sprung,  that  I was  ap- 
prehensive it  would  fall  before  he  could  get  down. 

As  soon  as  this  was  accomplished,  the  attention  of  every  one  was 
given  to  cutting  away  such  of  the  rigging  as  kept  the  wreck  of 
spars  alongside.  This  being  done,  and  the  precaution  taken  of  at- 
taching a strong  line  to  the  spars,  the  greater  drift  of  the  vessel  soon 
brought  them  to  windward,  and  they  served  to  keep  the  vessel's  head 
to  the  sea.  Daylight  unveiled  to  us  no  new  misfortune  ; butonexam* 
ining  the  stump  of  the  foremast,  an  old  defect  was  discovered,  which 
had  been  hidden  from  our  sight  by  the  wedges  of  the  mast,  and  which 
was  the  cause  of  our  misfortune. 

Before  noon  of  the  following  day,  the  gale  had  very  considerably 
abated,  and  with  great  industry  we  not  only  saved  the  sails  and  rig- 
ging, but  erected  a jury  mast  and  got  a sail  upon  it  before  night.  It 
was  now  however,  a matterof  much  difficulty  to  determine  on  the  most 
eligible  course  to  pursue.  The  sail  we  were  able  to  spread  was  so 
greatly  reduced  as  to  make  our  progress  on  a wind  very  slow ; this 
difficulty  might  at  any  moment  be  increased  by  the  fall  of  the  main- 
mast, which  was  so  very  badly  sprung,  that,  with  our  best  efforts  at 
fishing  it,  and  also,  of  relieving  it  of  the  weight  of  the  topmast  and 
yards,  we  were  in  constant  apprehension  of  losing  it.  In  such  a 
predicament,  it  would  be  impossible  to  work  off  of  a lee  shore.  To 
proceed  to  any  one  of  the  West  India  Islands,  would  have  been  a 
task  of  easy  accomplishment,  as  it  would  have  been  sailing  before 


228 


TinnET  VOYAGE. 


the  wind  all  the  way  ; but  this  course  would  have  been  ruinous  to  our 
voyage.  With  the  wind  as  it  then  was-,  two  points  free,  we  could 
make  five  knots  an  hour  ; hence  I considered  it  practicable  to  weather 
Cape  St.  Roque,  and,  this  once  accomplished,  the  prospect  would  be 
fair  of  reaching  Rio  Janeiro,  where  the  repairs  required  could  be 
easily  and  expeditiously  made,  and  the  original  plan  of  the  voyage 
be  prosecuted.  I therefore  determined  on  making  the  attempt,  and 
shaped  our  course  for  this  purpose. 

, Owing  to  the  prevalence  of  light  winds  and  calms,  which  succeeded 
the  gale  that  had  been  so  disastrous  to  us,  we  did  not  cross  the  Equa- 
tor until  the  6th  of  October,  twenty-five  days  from  that  of  the  disaster  ; 
and  in  eighteen  days  afterwards,  the  24th  of  October,  we  arrived  at 
Rio  Janeiro,  having  been  forty-three  days  navigating  in  so  crippled  a 
state,  that  a gale  of  ordinary  violence  or  duration  would  greatly  have 
increased  our  embarrassments,  if  it  did  not  prevent  our  gaining  the 
desired  port. 

The  policy  of  the  Portuguese  government,  like  that  of  Spain, 
prohibited  strangers  from  entering  a port  of  their  colonies,  excepting 
only  on  the  evidence  of  such  palpable  necessity  as  would  make  the 
refusal  an  act  of  gross  inhumanity.  There  could  exist  no  doubt  in  the 
minds  of  the  official  visitors,  that  ours  was  a case  in  point,  and  one 
demanding  the  utmost  extent  of  their  indulgence.  Nearly  two  hours 
were  expended  in  the  requisite  examinations  and  investigations  of 
the  damages  incurred,  in  order  to  estimate  the  time  required  to  repair 
them,  so  as  to  graduate  the  number  of  days,  which  should  be  permit- 
ted us  to  remain  in  port.  The  proccs  verbal,  or  report,  being  accom- 
plished and  submitted  to  the  proper  authorities,  they  were  pleased  to 
grant  us  forty-five  days. 

An  attempt  was  now  made  by  the  government  linguist  to  compel 
the  employment  of  mechanics  of  his  appointment ; but  the  very 
earnestness,  with  which  he  pressed  this,  and  his  assurance  that  1 
should  be  permitted  to  employ  no  others,  awakened  my  suspicions 
of  sinister  and  base  motives  on  his  part,  and  induced  a reference  to 
higher  authority,  from  which  I learned,  that  no  such  regulation  existed, 
and  that  I was  at  liberty  to  employ  any  that  I chose. 

It  was  impossible  to  procure  such  masts  here  as  were  suitable  fora 
schooner  of  the  size  of  our  vessel,  and  I therefore  decided  to  rig  her 


•BIG  THE  VESSEL  AS  A BRiG. 


229 


as  a brig ; for  which  purpose  both  our  oid  masts  would  answer.  Giv- 
mg,  then,  to  the  carpenter  the  requisite  directions  for  the  length  of 
the  masts,  spars,  Arc.,  and  to  the  sail-maker  for  the  sails  to  be  made 
from  those  of  the  schooner,  and  employing  the  crew  in  preparing 
the  rigging,  there  existed  no  doubt  of  accomplishing  our  object  and 
of  being  ready  to  leave  the  port  even  before  the-  expiration  of  the 
time  to  which  we  were  limited. 

Whilst  the  Aspasia  was  undergoing  these  various  repairs  and 
changes,  I had  received  information,  which  made  it  very  desirable  tc 
alter  the  voyage.  The  great  length  of  time,  during  which  an  entire 
suspension  of  business  had  been  caused  at  the  river  of  Plate  by  the 
hostile  fleet  and  army  of  England,  had  prevented  the  transmission  td 
the  Havana  of  those  supplies  of  jerked  beef,  which  long  habit  had 
made  indispensable.  It  was  obvious,  therefore,  that  no  occasion  had 
ever  been  presented,  which  held  out  such  flattering  inducements  for 
the  undertaking  of  such  a voyage.  The  profits  were  a certainty,  that 
might  he  nearly  estimated  at  the  outset  The  risk  from  capture  at 
sea  appeared  to  be  trifling,  and  the  time  necessary  for  its  accomplish- 
ment would  not  be  more  than  half  that  required  for  prosecuting  the 
original  plan.  But  the  obstacles  to  he  overcome  were  very  great, 
and,  .at  first  sight,  seemed  to  render  the  attempt  irrational  and  hope- 
less. The  utter  impossibility  of  obtaining  permission  from  govern- 
ment to  sell  our  cargo,  the  difficulty  and  great  risk  of  attempting  to 
do  it  without  such  permission,  the  small  amount  in  value,  which  our 
vessel  would  carry  in  jerked  beef,  and  the  improbability  of  being  able 
to  procure  a suitable  ship  to  take  the  remainder,  all  seemed  to  render 
the  execution  of  the  plan,  however  desirable,  one  of  insurmountable 
difficulty.  In  the  prosecution  of  an  object,  however,  where  there  was 
a certainty  of  reward  in  proportion  to  obstacles  to  be  overcome,  the 
stimulus  was  powerful  to  look  on  every  side  for  their  removal,  and; 
in  so  doing,  1 was  aided  by  one  of  the  most  respectable  and  influential 
merchants  of  the  city. 

In  the  old  and  decayed  colonial  governments  of  Portugal  and 
Spain,  where  those  who  administered  tl>em  seemed  to  consider  them- 
selves placed  rather  to  make  their  own  fortunes  than  to  benefit  thd 
state  or  the  people,  and  where  the  conduct  of  the  subalterns  in  office 
was  influenced  by  fhe  example  of  their  superiors,  an  inte.Lligent  met' 
20 


230 


THIRD  VOYAGE. 


chant  generally  possessed  the  power,  if  not  of  suspending  the  rigoi 
of  the  commercial  laws,  at  least  of  producing  a blindness  to  their 
infraction,  which  rendered  them  nugatory.  To  such  a merchant  it 
was  my  good  fortune  to  be  introduced,  — one,  before  all  others  of 
the  city,  who  possessed  the  requisite  energy,  enterprise,  influence, 
and  ability  for  the  prosecution  of  the  plan  in  contemplation.  He 
perceived  that  a negotiation  was  practicable,  which  would  be  mutually 
advantageous.  The  great  profit  he  would  make  on  my  cargo,  taken 
at  ten  percent,  advance  on  the  invoice,  at  which  I offered  it,  would 
enable  him  to  defray  all  the  expenses  of  getting  it  onshore,  and  those 
attendant  on  the  delivery  of  the  Aspasia’s  cargo  of  beef,  at  sea  ; 
both  of  which  operations  were  to  be  at  his  risk,  and  would  leave  him 
a handsome  sum  as  compensation.  An  additional  inducement,  also, 
was  that  of  receiving,  in  part  payment,  a fine  coppered  ship  of  three 
hundred  and  sixty  tons  burden,  then  in  port,  and  ready  to  be  expedited 
without  delay.  This  ship  was  to  be  provided  with  a Portuguese  master 
and  crew,  to  be  navigated  under  the  Portuguese  flag,  and  was  to  pro- 
ceed to  the  Island  of  St.  Catherine,  where  a cargo  of  beef  would  be 
delivered  on  board  as  soon  as  it  could  be  transported  there  from  the 
Rio  Grande. 

According  to  agreement  the  necessary  measures  were  taken  for 
unlading  the  Aspasia,  and  so  judiciously,  that  in  two  nights  the  whole 
cargo  was  landed  without  accident  or  any  attempt  at  molestation 
from  the  sentries  or  the  officers  of  the  customs.  It  was  not  possible, 
however,  to  confceal  or  to  prevent  observation  on  the  sudden  and 
apparently  miraculous  manner,  in  which  our  vessel  had  become  ele- 
vated on  the  water,  and  which  was  marked  along  her  whole  length  by 
the  grass  and  foulness  common  to  wood,  which  has  been  for  so  long 
a time  submerged  in  sea-water.  This  evidence  of  our  nightly  labor 
was  scraped  off  and  a coat  of  tar  and  blacking  put  on  immediately, 
of  which  no  other  notice  was  taken  than  an  occasional  joke  from  the 
native  boat-men  on  the  suddenness,  with  which  our  vessel  had  risen 
on  the  water,  without  any  apparent  cause. 

Although  we  used  all  our  powers  to  induce  the  spar-maker  to  exert 
his  utmost  energies  in  our  behalf,  he  was  unable  to  complete  the 
spars,  tops,  and  caps,  in  less  than  three  weeks  after  our  arrival. 
However,  as  the  other  parts  of  the  equipment  were  finished,  we  sue- 


st.  Catherine’s. 


231 


ceeded  in  preparing  the  vessel  for  sea  a week  within  the  time  tc 
which  we  were  limited.  When  all  was  thus  ready,  we  weighed 
anchor,  and  made  several  tacks  to  and  fro  in  the  bay,  to  try  her  rate 
of  sailing  and  manner  of  working  as  a brig,  and  had  reason  to  be 
perfectly  satisfied  with  the  change.  The  next  day,  having  ascer- 
tained, that  the  vessel  with  the  btef  was  ready  to  go  outside,  and 
transfer  it  to  the  Aspasia,  both  vessels  proceeded  to  sea,  together,  on 
the  1st  of  December.  To  Mr.  Rogers,  the  first  mate  of  the  Aspa- 
sia, I had  given  her  in  charge,  with  directions,  when  laden,  to  proceed 
to  the  Havana,  there  dispose  of  the  cargo,  and,  .with  the  proceeds  of 
it,  to  lade  the  vessel  with  such  produce  of  the  island  as  he  should 
judge  best  adapted  to  the  New  York  market,  whither  he  was  to  make 
the  best  of  his  way  with  it. 

The  Aspasia  being  despatched,  there  was  nothing  to  prevent  me 
from  giving  my  undivided  attention  to  expediting  the  Telemaco,  the 
ship  I had  bought;  but  acting  by  means  of  others,  I perceived  to  be 
dull  work,  and  particularly  so  with  the  Portuguese.  There  was, 
however,  no  other  resource  than  patience  ; and  it  was  very  evident, 
that  large  drafts  would  be  required  upon  whatever  stock  I might  pos- 
sess of  this  virtue.  The  young  man,  who  had  been  appointed 
to  command  the  ship,  was  docile  and  amiable,  but  entirely  desti- 
tute of  that  principle  of  enterprise,  which  is  an  acknowledged 
peculiarity  of  the  American  character  ; so  that,  as  almost  every 
thing  depended  on  his  exertions  for  getting  away  the  ship,  it  was 
nearly  the  end  of  December  before  this  desirable  object  was  accom- 
plished. 

Our  passage  to  St.  Catherine’s  was  performed  in  a few  days, 
and  with  much  ease.  The  predicament,  however,  of  making  one 
of  a ship’s  company,  not  an  individual  of  which,  excepting  my 
servant,  was  acquainted  with  any  other  than  the  Portuguese  lan- 
guage, of  which  I was  ignorant,  was  not  without  its  embarrass, 
ment. 

Entering  by  the  passage  at  the  north  end  of  the  island,  it  is  neces- 
sary to  pass  over  a long  distance  of  flats,  on  which  there  are  only 
from  seven  to  eight  feet  of  water,  before  arriving  at  the  harbor  in 
fiont  of  the  town,  in  doing  which  we  scraped  the  bottom  sevenu 
times,  and  hence  had  evidence,  that  it  would  be  injurious  to  cause  tne 


232 


THIRD  VOYAGE. 


ship  to  draw  more  water  going  out,  and  that  we  should  be  compelled 
to  lade  the  greater  part  of  the  cargo  in  the  roadstead,  at  the  north 
end  of  the  island. 

Directions  having  been  sent  to  Rio  Grande,  at  the  time  of  making 
my  contract  for  the  beef  to  be  sent  to  St.  Catherine’s,  a brig,  with 
nearly  two  hundred  tons,  reached  there  a few  days  after  our  arrival. 
This  being  taken  on  board,  and  occupying  the  place  of  the  ballast, 
which  had  been  thrown  out,  made  the  ship  draw  a few  inches  more 
water  than  on  entering  ; and  this  trifling  increase  caused  embarrass- 
ment, and  the  loss  of  a kedge-anchor,  in  returning  over  the  flats. 
Having  anchored  in  the  roadstead,  near  the  main  side,  from  which 
was  a beautiful  run  of  water  emptying  into  the  sea,  we  waited  there 
nearly  a month  before  receiving  the  remainder  of  the  cargo.  In  the 
mean  time,  the  men  were  engaged  in  filling  the  water-casks,  and  in 
cutting  a plentiful  supply  of  wood. 

The  town  of  St.  Catherine’s  is  eligibly  situated  on  a gentle  slope, 
at  the  southwest  side  of  the  island  ; and  its  harbor  is  secure  against 
the  influence  of  every  wind.  The  appearance  of  the  town,  from  the 
shipping  in  the  harbor,  is  very  prepossessing  ; but  a closer  inspec- 
tion tends,  in  some  degree,  to  remove  the  favorable  impressions  thus 
made.  The  houses  are  of  very  ordinary  construction,  generally  of 
one  story ; and  their  furniture  is  of  the  rudest  manufacture,  and 
limited  to  articles  of  indispensable  necessity.  Hence,  the  inhabitants, 
being  unacquainted  with  luxuries,  or  unambitious  of  possessing  them, 
are  very  generally  in  the  enjoyment  of  ease  and  independence. 
Indeed,  when  a Creole  Portuguese  possesses  enough  to  keep  him 
from  starving,  he  will  no  longer  labor,  but  riots  in  those  slothful  indul- 
gences, which,  from  education  or,  rather,  example,  and  the  effect  of 
climate,  he  considers  supreme  happiness. 

To  the  richest  individual  of  the  place  I had  a letter  of  introduc- 
tion ; but  it  did  not  procure  for  me  any  of  those  little  attentions,  which 
may  be  made  without  any  expense,  and  which  are  so  gratifying  in  a 
strange  land.  By  the  accidental  circumstance  of  being  near  his 
bouse,  during  a passing  shower,  I took  the  liberty  of  going  in,  to 
avoid  getting  wet,  and  was  treated  with  all  desirable  civility.  This 
man's  fortune  is  estimated  at  twenty  thousand  dollars;  an  amount, 
which,  compared  with  that  of  the  rest  of  the  community,  gives  him 


GOVERNOR  OF  ST.  CATHERINE’S. 


233 


the  same  false  estimate  of  himself,  induced  by  the  sycophancy  of  his 
fellow-citizens,  which,  from  a like  cause,  is  but  too  often  seen  in  bet- 
ter educated  and  more  intelligent  communities. 

The  Governor,  though  acknowledged  to  be  a worthy  man,  is  deci- 
dedly opposed  to  the  levelling  system,  which  is  a peculiarity  of  the 
times  ; and  when  its  influence  is  observed  in  an  individual,  by  any 
deficiency  of  respect  to  himself,  he  does  not  allow  it  to  pass  unno- 
ticed. Of  this  he  gave  an  instance  one  day,  when  one  of  the  seamen 
of  the  Telemaco,  being  on  shore  on  liberty,  passed  near  to  him  with- 
out raising  his  hat.  He  was  instantly  arrested  ; and,  although  he 
urged,  in  extenuation,  his  ignorance  of  its  being  the  Governor,  he 
was,  nevertheless,  put  in  the  stocks  for  an  hour.  With  such  sum- 
mary punishment  for  a breach  of  good  manners,  it  may  be  pre- 
sumed, that  the  people  are  orderly  ; that  riots,  street  brawls,  and 
drunken  frolics  are  unknown  here.  Indeed,  the  inhabitants  have 
no  fancy  for  them  ; and  the  foreign  sailors,  who  are  occasionally 
here,  soon  discover,  that  a sober  demeanor  is  the  only  one  allow- 
able. 

In  consequence  of  the  limited  native  commerce  of  St.  Catherine’s, 
and  the  small  number  of  foreign  ships  which  visit  it,  there  are  no 
inducements  to  the  inhabitants  to  prepare  such  supplies  of  live  stock, 
vegetables,  and  fruits,  as  are  desirable  for  vessels  touching  there ; 
and  hence,  in  procuring  ours,  we  were  indebted  to  the  kindness  of 
some  individuals,  who  permitted  encroachments  to  be  made  on  their 
family  stock.  Having  accomplished  our  lading,  after  waiting  for  the 
last  part  of  the  cargo  until  my  patience  was  nearly  exhausted,  we 
immediately  weighed  anchor,  and  sailed  for  the  Havana,  on  the  15th 
of  February,  1807. 

After  having  abandoned  the  original  plan  of  going  to  the  wesi 
coast  of  America,  and  decided  on  the  one  I was  now  prosecuting,  I 
had  written  by  two  opportunities,  from  Rio  Janeiro,  to  my  friends  in 
Boston,  requesting  to  have  insurance  effected,  if  it  were  practicable. 
But  these  were  precarious  times  for  neutrals,  when  the  two  great 
belligerents  agreed  in  nothing  else  than  in  plundering  them  ; and  I 
was  aware  of  the  uncertainty,  whether,  by  some  new  order  in  coun- 
cil, on  one  side,  or  some  retaliatory  decree  on  the  other,  approxima- 
ting to  an  interdiction  of  all  neutral  commerce,  insurance  could  ba 
20* 


234 


THIRD  VOYAGE. 


effected  at  any  rate.  On  the  presumption,  however,  that  sucli  neutral 
commerce  would  be  unmolested,  as  did  not,  even  in  a remote  degree, 
prejudice  the  interests  of  the  belligerents,  (and  of  this  description  the 
voyage  I was  now  pursuing  certainly  was,)  I felt  that  I had  little  else 
to  guard  against  than  the  sea  risk,  and  therefore  was  free  from  anx- 
iety on  the  subject  of  insurance. 

A few  degrees  south  of  the  equator  we  fell  in  with  a British  frigate, 
by  which  we  were  subjected  to  a rigid  scrutiny ; the  result  of  which 
was  a conviction  of  the  neutrality  of  the  property,  the  legality  of  the 
voyage,  and  consequently,  that  there  existed  no  motive  for  detention. 
Bv  the  captain  and  officers  of  this  ship  I was  treated  with  much 
civility,  and,  on  parting,  they  wished  me  a safe  arrival  at  Havana. 
A similar  investigation,  with  a like  result,  by  a British  sloop-of-war, 
from  which  we  were  boarded  a few  days  afterwards,  tended  to 
encourage  me  in  the  belief  that  I had  nothing  to  apprehend  from 
British  vessels  of  war.  These  evidences,  that  my  voyage  was  not 
considered  opposed  to  any  order  or  regulation  which  should  justify 
its  interruption,  and  by  those  too,  whose  eye  to  discover  a Haw  pos- 
sessed the  quickness  of  the  eagle,  and  whose  appetite  for  prey  was 
as  voracious  as  that  of  the  shark,  confirmed  my  opinion,  that  the  sea 
risk  was  all  I had  to  apprehend.  With  these  impressions,  I perceived 
no  other  obstacle  to  prevent  my  reaching  Havana,  where  I was  sure 
of  reaping  an  immense  profit  on  my  adventure.  In  the  contempla- 
i.ion  of  such  flattering  prospects,  my  imagination  often  dwelt  on  the 
joy  of  a happy  return  to  my  family,  with  a fortune  that  would  super- 
sede the  necessity  of  ever  leaving  it  again.  These  pleasing  anticipa- 
tions, however,  were  soon  destined  to  pass  away  into  the  regions  of 
airy  castles. 

Early  on  a fine  morning,  when  about  a hundred  and  fifty  miles  to 
windward  of  the  Island  of  Martinique,  we  descried  a number  of 
vessels  to  westward,  which,  on  approaching,  were  perceived  to  be  a 
fleet  of  English  vessels  of  war.  Being  nearest  the  Ramillies,  of 
seventy-four  guns,  we  were  boarded  from  that  ship,  and  on  ascertaining 
that  the  fleet  was  comm&nded  by  Admiral  Cochrane,  my  heart 
sank  within  me.  All  my  confidence,  resulting  from  the  ordeal 
to  which  we  had  been  so  recently  subjected,  combined  with  my 
emere  conviction  of  the  innocence  and  legitimacy  of  the  voyage 


ADMIRAL  COCHRANE. 


235 


were  insufficient  to  banish  the  apprehension  of  being  sent  in  for  adju- 
dication. 

'Fne  boarding  officer  from  the  Ramillies  was  a young  man  of  good 
anpearance,  but  totally  deficient  in  every  attribute  of  the  gentleman 
excepting  bis  garb.  His  behavior  to  the  captain  of  the  Telemaeo, 
and  to  myself,  while  on  board  our  own  ship,  was  marked  by  all  that 
insolence,  arrogance,  and  impudence,  which  are  the  acknowledged 
peculiarities  of  a coward,  when  conscious  of  being  free  from  danger. 
As  the  captain  of  the  Telemaeo  did  not  speak  English,  I accompa- 
nied this  brutal  officer  on  board  the  Ramillies,  with  the  ship’s  papers. 
My  reception  and  treatment  by  the  venerable  and  respectable  com- 
mander of  this  ship,  formed  a perfect  contrast  with  that  of  the  board- 
ing officer.  He  was  evidently  one  of  the  old  school,  urbane,  mild, 
gentlemanly,  and  with  manners  and  deportment  as  much  at  variance 
with  those  of  his  subalterns,  as  were  the  courtiers  of  the  times  of 
the  Louises,  with  the  sans-cuJolt.es  of  our  day.  After  a thorough  ex- 
amination of  our  papers,  in  which  he  was  assisted  by  two  of  his  offi- 
cers, no  cause  was  perceived  by  them  to  justify  the  detention  of  the 
ship  ; consequently,  the  papers  were  returned  to  me  by  the  com- 
mander, who  wished  me  a good  voyage,  and  caused  me  to  be  put  on 
board  the  Telemaeo  again. 

On  the  presumption  that  a captain  in  the  fleet  would  not  act  in  this 
independent  manner  without  the  sanction  of  the  commander-in-chief, 
I began  to  doubt  whether  time  had  not  effected  a change  in  the  char- 
acter of  the  Admiral,  whether  the  high  station  to  which  he  had 
arrived,  might  not  have  elevated  his  mind  above  the  buccaniering 
propensities  for  which  he  was  famed ; whether  even  he  might  not 
occasionally  feel  something  allied  to  remorse,  at  the  amount  of  dis- 
tress which  he  must  be  conscious  that  he  had  caused,  and  hence  had 
determined  to  plunder  no  more.  This  delusion  unfortunately  was 
but  of  momentary  duration.  The  Admiral,  in  this  instance,  gave 
evidence  that  time  and  exalted  station  had  no  ameliorating  effect  op. 
tus  piratical  propensities.  We  had  scarcely  filled  away  our  sails, 
when,  his  ship  having  approached,  and  the  information  having  been 
conveyed  to  him  by  signal,  of  whence  we  came,  and  whither  we 
were  bound,  without  deigning  to  see  us,  or  our  papers,  he  ordered 
our  ship  to  be  taken  possession  of,  and  to  be  conducted  to  Tortola. 


236 


THIRD  VOYAGE. 


Accordingly,  a boat,  with  the  requisite  number  of  men,  came  on 
board  from  the  Cerberus  frigate,  and  took  possession  of  our  snip; 
returning,  took  our  ship’s  company,  including  rnyseif,  on  ooaru  the 
frigate,  leaving  the  master  of  the  Telemaco,  alone  of  our  number, 
on  board  that  sl  ip 


CHAPTER  XIX. 


Admiral  Cochrane — Ilis  Notoriety— Officers  of  the  Cerberus  — Theme  of  Conversa- 
tion— Arrival  at  Tortola — Dougan,  the  Prize  Agent — His  Threat  to  the  Judge  — 
Vice-Admiralty  Court  — Condemnation  — Cause  therefor — Proposal  from  the  Agent 

— Proceed  to  St.  Thomas  — Wrecked  — Arrive  in  the  Boat  — Effect  on  the  Owners  — 
F ail  in  my  Object  — Return  — Embark  again  for  St.  Thomas  — Hence  to  New  York 

— Arrival  — Interview  with  a F riend  — Extent  of  my  Misfortune  — Arrive  at  Home. 


experience  of  a few  years,  with  only  a mod- 
erate degree  of  observation,  will  suffice  to  convince 
us,  that  with  man.  as  with  animals,  there  are  pecu- 
liarities and  propensities  in  families,  and  in  charac- 
ters which  are  known  to  the  world,  by  which  they 
may  justly  be  designated  as  of  a good  or  a bad  breed. 
As  an  instance  among  distinguished  men,  no  con- 
temporary of  those  great  British  naval  commanders,  the 
Howes,  who  had  observed  their  course,  but  would  decide 
that  they  belonged  to  the  former  class ; and  that  they 
were  incapable  of  other  than  noble,  honorable,  and 
chivalrous  acts.  On  the  contrary,  there  are  none  who  are 
familiar  with  the  names  and  course  of  the  Cochranes,  but 
must  have  identified  them  with  the  latter  class.  They  have 
invariably  exhibited  a thievish  propensity  ; for  the  gratifica- 
tion of  which,  and  for  a long  course  of  years,  they  have  set  at  defi- 
ance the  laws  of  God  and  man.  In  the  indulgence  of  this  propensity 
Admiral  Cochrane  stands  pre-eminent.  The  multitude  of  defenceless 
merchant  vessels,  which  he  took  and  sent  in  for  adjudication,  in  the 
early  part  of  the  war,  incident  to  the  French  Revolution,  and  while 
in  command  of  the  Thetis  frigate,  on  the  Halifax  station,  will  long  be 
remembered  ; and  although  lie  must  have  been  aware,  that  not  one  in 
fifty  of  them  could  be  confiscated,  yet  as  he  would  be  exonerated 
from  expense,  he  seemed  not  only  to  have  a total  disregard  of  the 


238 


THIKD  VOYAGE. 


ruin  he  was  causing  innocent  men,  but  actually  to  riot  in  the  exercise 
of  power  which  produced  that  ruin.  During  the  long  war  which  suc- 
ceeded, and  in  which  he  was  promoted,  his  highest  ambition  seems  to 
uave  been  that  of  enriching  himself  by  the  plunder  of  defenceless 
merchant  vessels.  The  attack  on  New  Orleans  was  projected  by 
him  ; and  the  watchword  of  “ Booty  and  Beauty,”  is  sufficiently 
expressive  of  the  character  of  the  enterprise.  This  abortive  attempt 
was  the  last  great  buccaniering  expedition  in  which  the  Admiral  was 
engaged. 

The  unenviable  course  of  Lord  Cochrane,  nephew  of  the  Admiral, 
who  lias  figured  at  the  head  of  the  Chilian  navy,  and  its  consequences, 
are  of  general  notoriety  ; and  I mention  him,  because,  being  both 
designated  as  admirals,  and  equally  eager  for  plunder,  they  are  often 
confounded  ; and  because,  being  a relative,  it  serves  to  confirm  the 
correctness  of  the  theory  of  breeds. 

There  is  scarcely  an  object  offered  to  the  contemplation  of  an  hon- 
orable mind  more  disgusting  than  a sordid  desire  of  accumulating 
riches,  in  one  whose  profession  is  arms;  and  when  that  desire  is 
indulged  at  the  expense  of  innocent  and  unoffending  individuals,  there 
is  no  term  too  opprobrious  to  apply  to  it.  There  exists  such  an 
incompatibility  in  the  two  pursuits,  that  whenever  they  are  united  in 
the  same  person,  that  person  may  truly  be  termed  a poltroon. 

Those  only  of  our  countrymen,  who  were  engaged  in  commerce 
thirty  years  ago,  can,  from  experience,  form  a just  estimate  of  the 
atrocious  conduct  of  the  British  government  toward  neutrals,  and  of 
the  hopelessness  of  any  cause,  however  fair,  which  was  subjected  to 
the  decision  of  any  of  its  West  India  Vice-Admiralty  Courts;  and 
especially  that  of  Tortola,  the  most  infamous  mockery  of  justice,  and 
apology  for  sanctioning  plunder,  with  which  the  world  has  ever  been 
disgraced.  Even  before  such  a tribunal,  however,  with  such  entire 
absence  of  all  cause  for  confiscation  as  my  case  presented,  a hope  of 
escape  might  have  been  indulged,  had  I been  sent  in  by  some  poor 
friendless  lieutenant  ; but  with  an  admiral  for  my  opponent  confisca- 
tion was  certain. 

During  the  several  days  I passed  on  board  the  Cerberus,  before 
arriving,  I was  treated  with  much  civility  by  the  captain  and  officers 
of  that  ship.  The  wardroom  officers  were  all  young  men  of  gentle- 


TELEMACO. 


239 


manly  manners  and  deportment.  The  all-absorbing  theme  of  con- 
versation while  I was  with  them,  was  their  prizes  ; what  they  had 
shared  from  one  ; what  they  expected  to  share  from  another ; not 
omitting  an  estimate  of  the  pittance  each  might  derive  from  my 
property.  That  the  minds  of  pirates  and  thieves  should  be  so  exclu- 
sively engaged  in  the  discussion  of  the  amount  and  division  of  their 
booty,  is  easily  comprehended  ; but,  to  perceive  the  same  thing  in  men 
professing  to  be  gentlemen,  possibly  Christians,  men  wearing  the 
livery  of  one  of  the  most  powerful  monarchs  of  the  earth,  warriors 
by  profession,  was  a circumstance  equally  incomprehensible  and 
disgusting. 

The  Cerberus  and  the  Telemaco  came  to  anchor  at  the  same  time 
in  the  harbor  of  Tortola,  on  the  22d  of  April,  1807.  The  agent  for 
prizes,  a Mr.  Dougan,  came  on  board,  and  to  him  were  delivered  the 
ship’s  papers.  He  then  very  civilly  accompanied  me  on  shore  to  aid 
me  in  procuring  lodgings.  This  being  accomplished,  I returned  on 
board,  at  the  expiration  of  about  two  hours,  to  take  my  baggage  on 
shore  ; and  to  my  surprise  found,  that  during  that  short  interval,  Dou- 
gan had  been  on  board,  had  broken  open  my  writing-desk,  and  had 
abstracted  from  it  all  my  private  letters  and  papers.  This  wanton 
outrage  was  entirely  unnecessary,  as  he  might  have  had  the  key  by 
asking  for  it ; but  it  served  to  open  my  eyes  to  a character  whose 
conduct,  throughout  the  business,  proved  him  to  be  a worthy  coadjutor 
of  Admiral  Cochrane. 

From  a merchant  of  the  place,  who  happened  to  be  present  when 
the  Judge  and  Dougan  were  examining  the  papers  together,  I learned 
that  the  Judge  could  not  then  perceive  any  cause  for  confiscating  the 
property.  The  voyage,  he  admitted,  as  appeared  by  the  documents, 
was  begun  at  New  York  for  American  account.  The  proceeds,  at 
Rio  Janeiro,  of  the  investment,  was  sufficient  to  purchase  the  property 
under  adjudication.  It  was  shipped  at  a neutral  port,  on  board  a 
neutral  ship,  for  neutral  account,  and  consisted  of  no  article  contra- 
band of  war.  On  what  plea,  then,  could  it  be  condemned  ? was  a 
question  that  required  much  ingenuity  to  solve,  — the  more  especially 
as  Dougan  was  then  heard  to  say  to  the  Judge,  on  his  expressing  a 
doubt,  that  if  this  prize  escaped  condemnation,  none  others  should  be 
sent  to  Tortola,  but  he  would  advise  their  being  sent  into  one  of  the 


240 


THIRD  VOYAGE. 


other  Islands  for  trial.  Whether  this  threat  had  any  influence  in  the 
final  decision  is  known  only  to  themselves,  but  that  it  was  so  intended 
is  obvious. 

There  was  no  choice  of  a person  to  act  as  counsel  for  the  defend- 
ant, for  there  was  at  Tortola  but  one  individual  for  that  office,  who 
served  on  all  prize  cases,  and  whose  sympathy  was  enlisted  entirely 
on  the  side  of  the  plunderers.  Under  such  discouraging  circum- 
stances, and  entertaining  no  doubt  of  what  would  be  the  result,  I 
should  instantly  have  abandoned  the  property,  and  wasted  neither  time 
nor  money  in  attempting  to  defend  a case  already  prejudged  ; but 
my  duty  to  the  underwriters,  if  the  property  had  been  insured,  and 
the  propriety  of  securing  an  appeal,  forbade  this  course,  and  induced 
me  to  wait  the  tardy  process  of  the  court.  The  farce  of  trial  wa3  of 
becoming  duration,  and  was  conducted  with  the  same  forms  and 
solemnity,  as  if  the  objects  had  been  to  elicit  truth  and  to  administer 
justice. 

As  the  case  of  the  Telemaco  was  perfectly  plain,  involving  no  intricate 
point  whatever,  it  was  impossible  that  the  Judge  should  have  perceived, 
in  thirty  days,  any  more  cause  of  confiscation  than  was  discoverable 
on  the  first  examination  of  the  papers;  hence  it  is  probable,  that  his 
mind  was  made  up  soon  after  the  threat  of  Dougan,  and  that  the  trial 
was  neither  more  nor  less  than  a shield  to  cover  an  act  of  villany. 
The  ship  and  cargo  were  condemned  as  good  and  lawful  prize  to 
Admiral  Cochrane,  on  two  grounds, — the  one  being  that  of  pursuing 
a voyage  in  time  of  war,  which  is  not  permitted  in  time  of  peace  ; 
the  other,  “ the  inadmissibility  of  a continuity  of  voyages.” 

It  is  but  doing  justice  to  the  honorable  feelings  of  a young  naval 
commander,  who  had  recently  arrived  on  this  station,  and  who  was 
yet  uninitiated  in  the  atrocious  practices  peculiar  to  it*  to  mention, 
that,  when  informed  by  a friend  of  mine  of  the  decision  of  the  court, 
and  the  reasons  for  it,  he  indignantly,  and  perhaps  imprudently, 
termed  it  no  other  than  licensed  piracy.  Those  of  my  fellow-citizens, 
of  more  recent  times  who,  by  the  ameliorating  influence  of  their 
commercial  relations  with  England,  have  imbibed  the  most  lofty,  and, 
I doubt  not,  just  ideas  of  the  honor,  good  faith,  and  integrity  of  Brit- 
ish merchants,  may  find  it  difficult  to  credit  the  fact,  that,  only  thirty 
years  ago,  the  government  of  which  they  are  subjects  could  sanction 


CAUSE  OF  CONDEMNATION. 


241 


such  atrocities  as  those  I have  detailed  ; or  that  a British  Admiral 
existed,  who  would  condescend  to  use  such  base,  cruel,  and  wicked 
means  for  the  augmentation  of  his  private  fortune.  But  the  thousands 
of  my  fellow-citizens,  who  were  ruined  at  this  period  by  being  strip- 
ped of  their  property,  on  equally  frivolous  pretexts,  will  corroborate 
the  accuracy  of  my  statement. 

The  Telemaco  and  cargo  being  condemned,  it  was  no  easy  matter 
for  the  prize  agent  to  dispose  of  them,  excepting  at  a very  great 
sacrifice.  The  ship  possessed  an  intrinsic  value  at  Tortola,  which  the 
cargo  did  not.  To  have  unloaded,  with  a view  of  transporting  it  in 
other  vessels  to  the  Havana,  where  only  a sale  was  to  be  found  for  it, 
would  be  incurring  great  expense  and  labor,  of  doubtful  remuneration. 
Hence,  there  was  an  evident  necessity  of  selling  the  ship  and  cargo 
together,  and  it  would  be  impossible  to  effect  this,  with  the  fact  before 
the  eyes  of  the  purchaser,  that  the  property  had  just  been  confiscated 
for  being  bound  to  the  only  place  where  it  could  be  disposed  of.  The 
prize  agent  was  extremely  embarrassed  with  the  peculiarity  of  this 
case,  aware  that,  without  the  intervention  of  a neutral,  nothing  could 
be  made  of  it.  In  this  extremity,  he  made  a proposal  to  me  take  it 
at  about  half  its  original  cost,  and,  as  an  inducement,  would  engage 
to  provide  protection  against  detention  by  British  cruisers  on  its  way 
to  Havana.  What  effrontery  ! What  impudence  ! What  viilany  ! 
To  rob  me  of  my  property  on  pretext  of  inadmissibility  of  voyage, 
and  then  propose  a passport  for  the  more  safe  prosecution  of  the  same 
voyage,  for  pursuing  which  the  property  was  confiscated  ! 

That  the  atrocity  of  this  case  may  be  viewed  in  all  its  bearings  at 
once,  I will  make  some  repetitions,  even  at  the  risk  of  being  consid- 
ered tedious.  Of  the  perfect  neutrality  of  this  property,  there  was 
not  suggested  nor  did  there  exist  in  the  mind  of  any  one  a doubt. 
The  cargo  consisted  of  no  article  contraband  of  war,  and  was  not 
destined  to  a blockaded  port.  We  had  been  subjected  to  a rigid 
scrutiny  by  three  different  British  ships  of  war,  and  neither  of  them 
saw  any  reason  for  detaining  us.  Without  the  formality  of  looking 
at  our  papers,  or  even  of  seeing  an  individual  belonging  to  the  ship, 
Admiral  Cochrane  ordered  her  to  be  taken  possession  of  and  to  be 
conducted  to  Tortola  for  adjudication.  At  Tortola  the  ship  and  cargo 
were  condemned  as  good  and  lawful  prize.  The  cargo  being  of  a 
21 


242 


THIRD  VOYAGE. 


description  that  embarrassed  the  prize  agent  to  know  what  to  do  with 
it,  he  proposed,  as  a.,  inducement  for  me  to  buy  it  in,  to  provide  a 
passport,  which  should  secure  it  against  British  capture  on  the  way  to 
its  original  destination.  Had  this  event,  and  others  resembling  it, 
vith  which  the  times  were  fertile,  occurred  in  the  Dark  Ages,  when 
might  and  right  were  synonymous,  they  would  have  been  in  keeping 
with  the  state  of  the  human  mind  at  that  time  ; but,  in  the  nineteenth 
century,  the  age  of  enlightened  benevolence  and  high  moral  sense, 
that  any  pressure  of  war  should  be  sufficient  to  induce  a Christian 
government  to  encourage  or  sanction  such  robberies,  will  be  matter 
of  amazement  and  regret  to  those  who  have  since  come  upon  the 
active  stage  of  life,  and  who  learn  from  the  reminiscences  of  their 
seniors,  that  such  were  the  actual  facts. 

Although  the  proposal,  before  mentioned,  came  from  so  suspicious 
a source,  and  might  be  designed  to  plunge  me  into  deeper  ruin,  yet 
it  was  so  tempting,  holding  out  the  prospect,  even  with  the  curtail- 
ment of  one  half  the  capital,  of  retrieving  my  fortune,  that,  however 
much  the  chance  was  against  my  being  able  to  raise  the  requisite  sum, 
I determined  to  spare  no  efforts  for  the  attainment  of  so  desirable  an 
object. 

To  have  made  the  attempt  at  Tortola,  would  have  been  useless, 
T1  ie  merchants  of  that  place  had  become  so  much  inured  to  scenes  of 
ruin  and  misery,  as  to  view  the  victims  of  their  freebooters  with  feel- 
ings of  contempt,  rather  than  sympathy.  My  only  hope,  therefore, 
was  to  go  to  St.  Thomas,  and  there  endeavor,  by  hypothecating  the 
vessel  and  cargo,  by  bills  on  the  United  States,  or  by  dividing  the 
adventure  into  shares,  to  raise  the  requisite  sum  to  ransom  the  property. 
Accordingly,  a droger  being  then  about  to  sail  for  that  place,  I took 
passage  in  her,  and  left  Tortola  late  in  the  afternoon. 

The  breeze,  during  the  night,  was  very  moderate,  and  the  vessel 
was  making  such  slow  progress,  that  the  master  calculated  on  arriving 
off  the  port  not  before  daylight.  There  must,  however,  have  been 
great  ignorance  of  the  danger,  or  very  careless  steering,  or  perhaps 
both  ; as,  between  one  and  two  o’clock  in  the  morning,  we  had  run  on 
to  a ledge  of  rocks.  Being  waked  by  the  hard  striking  of  the  vessel, 
my  first  impression  was,  that  we  were  alongside  some  ship  in  the 
harbor  ; but  a second  and  third  concussion,  and  a great  bustle  on  deck 


TEl.EM.ACO. 


243 


satisfied  me  that  we  were  in  danger.  I then  immediately  jumped  out 
of  my  berth,  and  found  the  water  above  my  ancles,  on  the  cabin  floor. 
Taking  my  clothes  in  my  hand,  I ran  on  deck,  and  hastily  put  them 
on.  By  this  time,  the  vessel  had  so  settled  and  heeled  over,  as  to 
bring  the  water  nearly  to  the  coamings  of  the  hatches,  on  the  lee  side 
of  the  deck  ; and  it  was  very  evident,  that  both  vessel  and  cargo 
would  be  a total  loss.  The  vessel  was  about  twenty  tons  burden,  and 
was  laden  with  coffee  in  bulk.  As  my  little  trunk  floated  towards  the 
companion-way,  it  was  seized  by  one  of  the  men,  and  put  into  the 
boat. 

Not  more  than  half  an  hour  had  elapsed  from  the  time  the  vessel 
struck,  before  she  had  filled.  The  crew,  consisting  of  four  persons 
and  myself,  embarked  in  the  boat,  and  left  the  wreck,  from  which 
nothing  could  be  saved.  Arriving  at  the  landing  just  as  the  day  began 
to  break,  I was  obliged  to  wait  the  moving  of  the  people,  before  I 
could  find  any  one  to  conduct  me  to  the  inn. 

In  the  mean  time,  the  owners  of  the  vessel  and  cargo  had  heard  a 
rumor  of  their  loss,  and  had  come  to  the  landing  to  ascertain  the  par- 
ticulars. These  were  given  by  the  master  and  men  then  present: 
and,  having  heard  the  dismal  recital,  which  closed  by  the  information, 
that  the  loss  was  total,  they  broke  out  in  exclamations,  showing  the 
depth  of  their  distress.  The  vessel  was  owned  by  a Dane  ; the  cargo 
by  a Frenchman.  It  was  to  each  his  all,  and  the  fruit  of  many 
years’  hard  toil;  and  it  was  uninsured.  The  expression  of  the  effects 
of  the  disaster,  on  each,  was  truly  characteristic.  The  Dane  evidently 
felt  his  loss  deeply.  He  was  sad,  melancholy,  silent,  excepting  now 
and  then  an  exclamation  of  “ My  God  ! what  a misfortune  ! what  a 
pity!”  The  Frenchman,  feeling  all  the  horrors  of  being  reduced  to 
beggary  from  comparative  independence,  gave  full  vent  to  those  feel- 
ings, in  a most  undignified  manner.  He  cried,  groaned,  wrung  his 
hands,  threw  his  hat  on  the  ground,  and  stamped  upon  it,  exclaiming, 
every  instant,  “ O mon  Dieu  ! mon  Dieu  1 quel  malheur  ! ” and  acting 
like  a perfect  maniac.  The  sympathy  of  the  good  people,  who  had 
collected  in  considerable  numbers,  was  evinced  in  their  attempts  to 
soothe  him  ; but  any  consolation,  offered  at  this  moment,  was  unheeded 
and  useless. 

Being  incapable  of  assuaging  the  grief,  01  of  rendering  any  service 


244 


THIRD  VOYAGE. 


to  these  unfortunate  people,  I left  them  as  soon  as  I could  procure  a 
negro  to  take  my  trunk,  and  show  me  the  way  to  the  inn.  When 
there,  my  first  object  was  to  procure  dry  clothes.  Mine  were  all  wet, 
those  in  my  trunk  as  well  as  those  1 had  on  ; and  no  other  resource 
was  presented  me  than  that  of  wrapping  myself  in  a borrowed  cloak 
and  waiting  in  my  room  until  some  of  them  were  dried.  This  was 
accomplished  in  due  time  ; and  then,  being  greatly  refreshed  by  a 
good  breakfast,  I walked  out  to  see  the  town,  and  to  find  the  merchants 
to  whom  1 had  letters.  I had  a long  interview  with  each.  They  were 
very  civil  and  friendly,  and  were  not  deficient  in  expressions  of  sym- 
pathy for  my  misfortunes,  nor  of  denunciations  for  what  they  termed 
the  villany  of  the  Vice- Admiralty  Court,  in  encouraging  and  sanction- 
ing such  acts  of  piracy.  But  they  declined  advancing  me  any  thing 
to  redeem  my  property,  in  either  of  the  several  modes  I proposed  to 
them,  probably  for  the  very  good  reason,  that,  as  the  property  on  its 
way  to  Havana  would  be  secure  against  British  capture,  there  would 
exist  no  other  than  the  sea  risk,  and,  therefore,  they  could  avail  them- 
selves of  the  entire  advantage  of  the  operation. 

Having  ascertained  that  a vessel  would  sail  from  hence  for  New 
York  in  about  a fortnight,  it  was  very  desirable  that  I should  not  lose 
the  opportunity  of  going  in  her,  seeing  that  now  all  hope  of  re- 
purchasing my  ship  was  annihilated.  Accordingly  I returned  to 
Tortola  the  fourth  day  after  leaving,  and  immediately  set  about 
making  the  necessary  arrangements  for  taking  a final  leave  of  this 
abominable  place.  Dougan  expressed  regret  that  I had  not  succeeded 
in  raising  the  means  to  enable  me  to  accept  his  proposal ; hut,  with 
the  passport,  there  was  no  doubt  some  neutral  from  St.  Thomas  would 
be  forthcoming,  who  would  readily  make  the  purchase. 

Having  settled  my  accounts,  and  secured  my  appeal  papers,  I left 
Tortola  on  the  25lh  of  July,  more  than  a month  from  the  date  of  my 
arrival.  During  that  month,  scarce  a day  passed,  in  which  I was  not 
subjected  to  some  angry  altercation,  some  unnecessary  provocation, 
some  feverish  excitement,  from  my  opponents  ; or  some  trouble  and 
anxiety  from  complaints  and  uneasiness  of  the  officers  and  crew  of 
our  ship  ; and  this,  under  the  scorching  influence  of  a vertical  sun 
But  1 had  the  happiness  to  escape  the  fever,  which  this  combination  of 
causes  was  so  well  calculated  to  produce,  and  to  retain  my  health 


TELEJIACO. 


245 


As  I left  the  harbor,  on  my  way  to  St.  Thomas,  I passed  near  the 
Telemaco,  which  lay  there  by  virtue  of  the  right  of  the  strong  over 
the  weak.  The  distinction  between  this  act  of  piracy,  and  those  of 
a like  character  by  the  ancient  buccaniers,  must  be  perceived  to  con- 
sist alone  in  the  circumstance,  that  the  former  is  sanctioned  by  kindred 
banditti,  termed  a Vice-Admiralty  Court  ; and  the  latter  were  too 
honest  and  magnanimous  to  practise  such  hypocrisy.  The  annals  of 
the  times,  however,  were  fertile  in  the  detail  of  such  atrocious  inva- 
sions of  the  rights  of  neutrals;  the  one  party  justifying  its  thefts,  by 
the  thefts  and  burnings  of  the  other. 

To  have  practised  the  self-denial  incident  to  leaving  my  family  for 
so  long  a time  ; to  have  succeeded  in  reaching  Bio  Janeiro,  after  being 
dismasted,  and  suffering  all  the  toils  and  anxieties  incident  thereto; 
to  have  surmounted,  happily,  the  numerous  obstacles  and  risks 
attendant  on  the  peculiarity  of  the  transactions  in  port;  to  have 
accomplished  the  business  of  lading  and  despatching  the  vessels,  in 
defiance  of  great  obstacles,  and  to  perceive  the  fortune  almost  within 
my  grasp,  which  would  secure  to  me  ease  and  independence  for  the 
remainder  of  my  life  ; and  then,  by  the  irresistible  means  of  brute 
force,  to  see  the  whole  swept  off,  in  so  atrocious  and  cruel  a manner, 
and  myself  and  family  thereby  reduced,  in  a moment,  from  affluence 
to  poverty,  must  be  admitted  to  be  a calamity  of  no  ordinary  magni- 
tude. It  required,  indeed,  the  exercise  of  great  fortitude  and  patience, 
and  naturally  led  to  the  perception  of  the  acknowledged  truth,  that 
mankind  experience  a greater  amount  of  misery  from  the  evil  passions 
and  wickedness  of  their  fellow-men,  than  from  all  the  effects  of  hur- 
ricanes, lightning,  earthquakes,  and  the  warring  elements  combined. 

Fortunately,  I possessed  an  elasticity  of  mind,  which  adapted  itself 
to  circumstances.  I was  accustomed  to  contend  with  difficulties,  and 
disciplined  by  a long  course  of  losses  and  disappointments  ; and, 
when  suffering  under  them,  I habitually  looked  round  for  the  means 
to  remedy  them.  I was  soon  enabled,  therefore,  to  throw  off  much 
of  the  weight  of  this  misfortune.  Some  mitigation  of  its  effect  was 
produced  by  cherishing  the  hope  that  insurance  on  the  property  might 
have  been  effected,  and  that  the  Aspasia  might  have  accomplished 
her  voyage  successfully.  Although  no  more  could  be  expected  from 
the  appeal,  than  the  sum  for  which  the  property  had  been  sacrificed ; 

21* 


*46 


THIRD  VOYAGE. 


and  this  sum  would,  necessarily,  be  much  reduced  by  lawyers’  fees 
and  merchants’  commissions,  before  reaching  my  hands ; yet  even 
this  served  to  buoy  up  my  spirits,  under  their  excessive  pressure. 

Arriving  again  at  St.  Thomas,  I found  the  ship  destined  for  New 
York,  nearly  ready  for  sea.  Although  a stranger  in  the  place,  there 
were  none  of  the  usual  attractions  for  beguiling  the  tedious  hours  of 
one  in  my  unfortunate  circumstances  ; and  the  necessity  for  an  addi- 
tional day’s  delay  increased  my  impatience. 

At  lengl.h  on  the  8lh  of  June,  we  took  our  departure  from  St. 
Thomas,  and,  on  the  30th  of  the  same  month,  arrived  at  New  York, 
after  a passage  as  pleasant  as  there  was  reason  to  expect  at  this  sea- 
son of  the  year.  We  had  several  invalids  on  board,  which  obliged 
us  to  pass  four  days  in  quarantine  at  Staten  Island.  This,  under 
different  auspices,  would  have  been  a pleasure,  and  even  as  it  was, 
the  arrival  from  sea,  the  enchanting  picture  from  the  terrace  of  the 
quarantine  house,  the  supply  of  the  various  refreshments  of  the 
season,  the  daily  papers,  which  came  regularly  to  us,  and,  more  than 
all,  letters  from  my  family  announcing  that  all  were  well,  combined 
to  lessen  the  tedium  of  my  detention. 

On  being  relieved  from  quarantine,  on  the  4th  of  July,  the  master 
of  the  Telemaco  and  myself  went  to  the  city,  arriving  there  amid  the 
din  of  arms- and  all  the  noise  and  bustle  of  the  celebration  of  the 
national  jubilee.  At  this  moment  the  public  mind  was  greatly  excited 
at  the  outrage  committed  on  the  Chesapeake  frigate,  by  the  British 
squadron  then  within  the  waters  of  the  United  States,  and  the  prevail- 
ing opinion  seemed  to  be,  that  war  was  the  inevitable  consequence. 

Having  been  informed  that  an  intimate  friend  and  relation  from 
Boston  was  in  town,  who  I knew  would  be  able  to  give  me  the  requi- 
site information  as  to  the  state  of  my  affairs,  I lost  no  time  in  seeking 
him;  but  it  was  hastening  only  to  be  the  earlier  acquainted  with 
disasters,  even  greater  than  I had  imagined.  On  meeting  him,  I per- 
ceived a shadow  cast  over  that  benevolent  countenance,  which  had 
hitherto  always  beamed  with  smiles  and  joy  when  meeting  me  after 
an  absence,  which  argued  but  too  clearly,  that  my  worst  anticipations 
were  about  being  confirmed.  He  told  me,  that,  in  consequence  of 
the  promulgation  of  some  new  orders  in  council  about  the  time  my 
letters  arrived,  desiring  insurance  to  be  made,  the  officers  became  so 


INTERVIEW  WITH  A FRIEND. 


247 


alarmed,  that  it  could  not  be  effected  at  a less  premium  than  thirty- 
three  and  one  third  per  cent.,  which  my  friends  would  not  consent  to 
give  ; hence  no  insurance  had  been  made  on  the  property,  and  the 
loss  was  for  account  of  Mr.  Shaler  and  myself.  Nor  was  this  all  ; he 
was  pained  to  say,  that  the  Aspasia  and  cargo  were,  also,  a total  loss. 
The  melancholy  detail  was,  that  she  had  arrived  safe  at  Havana,  and 
sold  the  cargo  at  fifteen  dollars  per  quintal,  and,  with  the  proceeds, 
about  thirty  thousand  dollars^  had  laden  with  coffee  and  sugar,  bound 
to  New  York  ; that  when  off  Cape  Hatteras  a gale  was  encountered, 
in  which  the  vessel  was  thrown  on  her  beam  ends  and  half  filled  with 
water,  which  ruined  the  cargo.  The  master,  Rogers,  had  been  swept 
away  and  lost,  and  she  finally  reached  Norfolk  in  a most  distressed 
state,  where  the  amount  of  all  that  was  saved  was  little  more  than 
sufficient  to  pay  the  wages  of  the  men.  To  crown  the  whole,  the 
agent  at  New  York  had  not  been  informed  of  this  shipment,  and  con- 
sequently no  insurance  had  been  effected.  I could  not  imagine  any 
addition  to  these  misfortunes,  because  I had  nothing  more  at  risk  ; yet 
I perceived  that  there  was  something  to  be  yet  unfolded.  To  this 
overwhelming  detail  was  yet  to  be  added  another  item,  which  would 
fill  my  cup  to  overflowing, — the  failure  of  a friend  and  relation,  on 
whose  paper  I was  endorser  and  had  become  responsible  for  the  sum 
of  six  thousand  dollars.  The  aggregate  of  these  losses,  estimating 
the  value  of  the  Telemaco’s  cargo  at  the  same  rate  the  Aspasia’s  was 
sold,  and  the  ship  at  what  was  paid  for  her,  and  independent  of  all 
profit  on  an  investment  of  the  funds  at  Havana  for  New  York,  would 
amount  to  one  hundred  and  fifty  thousand  dollars. 

All  doubts  relative  to  the  entire  prostration  of  my  fortune  were  now 
solved  ; all  hope  of  there  being  some  remnant  left  me  was  annihilated, 
and  the  world  was  to  be  begun  anew,  under  the  pressure  of  increased 
responsibilities.  But  the  reflection,  that  no  part  of  this  property  was 
on  credit,  that  I had  not  involved  others  in  my  losses,  was  eminently 
consolatory.  And  the  pleasing  contemplation  of  meeting  my  family 
again  after  this  first  and  long  absence  from  them,  and  before  having 
experienced  any  thing  of  the  inconvenience  and  embarrassments 
resulting  from  such  misfortune,  combined  to  check  their  naturally 
depressing  effects  on  my  spirits. 

The  weight  of  our  misfortunes  bore  not  less  heavily  on  the  Portu- 


248 


THIRD  VOYAGE. 


guese  Captain  than  on  myself,  although  his  was  only  the  loss  of  time  ; 
but  his  course  in  life  had  hitherto  been  one  of  uninterrupted  smooth- 
ness. This  was  the  first  serious  misfortune  he  had  experienced,  and 
it  so  afflicted  him,  that  continued  encouragement  was  required  to 
enable  him  to  support  it  with  becoming  propriety.  Fortunately  for 
him,  he  was  not  destined  to  wait  long  for  a passage  for  Lisbon.  An 
opportunity  presented  itself  immediately,  by  which  I procured  him  a 
passage,  defrayed  the  expense  of  it,  and  bade  him  adieu,  most  proba- 
bly for  ever. 

As  there  was  no  further  cause  for  detaining  me  in  New  York,  I 
bent  my  course  homeward,  and  arrived  there  on  the  8th  of  July,  1807, 
— a period  that  will  never  be  obliterated  from  my  memory,  — when 
the  joy  of  embracing  my  family  once  more  in  health,  was  in  bitter 
conflict  with  the  distress  resulting  from  the  consciousness  of  the  years 
of  separation  that  were  inevitable  in  the  renewed  efforts  requisite  for 
their  maintenance. 

Those  who  have  found  sufficient  interest  in  the  preceding  pages,  to 
be  induced  to  follow  me  in  my  subsequent  enterprises,  will  find  abun- 
dant evidence,  that  my  forebodings  were  fully  realized  in  the  repeated, 
long,  and  painful  separations  from  those  whom  it  was  no  less  my  duty 
than  it  would  have  been  my  happiness  to  watch  over  and  protect. 
Compelled  to  navigate  for  the  support  of  my  family,  and  deprived  in 
consequence  of  superintending  the  education  of  my  children,  worn 
with  anxiety,  and  sick  at  heart  by  hope  deferred,  it  will  be  seen  that 
I was  for  many  years  an  exile  from  all  that  rendered  life  dear  and 
desirable,  — and  this  as  a consequence  of  the  robbery  of  my  hard- 
earned  fortune  by  Admiral  Cochrane.  If  his  enjoyment  of  this 
property,  so  wickedly  obtained,  bears  any  proportion  to  the  years  of 
suffering  caused  the  proprietor  by  its  loss,  it  affords  the  strongest  pre- 
sumptive evidence  of  a perversion  of  mind,  which  must  meet  its  cor- 
rection hereafter. 


CHAPTER  XX. 


English  Aggressions  — Embargo  — Voyage  to  Africa  — To  Halifax  and  to  Europe  — 
Arrive  in  the  Clyde  — Proceed  to  London  — Project  a Voyage  to  the  Isle  of  Franca 
— Defeated  — Illness  at  Exeter — Recover — Go  to  Holland — Lade  a Ship  for  New 
York  — Take  Charge  of  Despatches  for  the  United  States — Arrival  at  Baltimore. 


long-continued  course  of  spoliation  by  British 
cruisers,  on  the  defenceless  commerce  of  the 
United  States,  had,  at  length,  roused  the  indigna- 
tion of  the  people  to  such  a degree,  that  they 
viewed  war  as  a less  evil  than  its  longer  endu- 
rance ; when  the  insult  to  the  national  flag,  in 
the  attack  on  the  frigate  Chesapeake,  seemed 
to  render  such  an  event  inevitable.  The  embargo 
which  was  the  immediate  consequence,  was  viewed  as 
a measure  of  prudence  and  sound  policy.  Those  of 
our  merchants  who  were  about  engaging  in  foreign  voy- 
ages, abandoned  their  plans;  those  who  had  supplies  of 
foreign  merchandise  in  store,  were  making  calculations  on 
an  advanced  price  ; and  those  who  had  property  abroad  were 
making  great  exertions  to  gel  it  home.  To  aid  in  promoting 
the  views  of  the  latter  class,  special  permissions  were  granted 
by  our  government,  for  vessels  to  proceed  in  ballast,  in  various  direc- 
tions. The  peculiar  state  of  the  times  having  prevented  my  engaging 
in  any  enterprise,  on  my  own  account,  I accepted  the  proposal  of 
some  merchants  of  Salem,  to  go  in  pursuit  of  a vessel  of  theirs  to  the 
coast  of  Africa.  The  latest  accounts  from  this  vessel  were,  that  after 
having  succeeded  in  collecting  a rich  cargo,  the  captain  had  died,  and 
that  the  mate  continued  on  the  coast,  to  dispose  of  some  portion  of 
‘he  outward  cargo,  which  yet  remained  unsold. 


• i 


250 


FOURTH  VOYAGE. 


Accordingly,  the  brig  Star  being  prepared  for  the  purpose,  and 
provided  with  the  requisite  permission  from  government,  I sailed 
from  Boston  for  the  coast  of  Africa,  in  the  month  of  April,  1808. 
Our  accommodations  being  spacious  and  airy,  and  the  voyage  to  be 
performed  in  the  summer  months,  1 was  induced,  no  less  for  our 
mutual  gratification,  than  for  the  promotion  of  his  health,  to  invite 
my  father-in-law,  the  venerable  ex-collector  oi  the  port  of  Salem,  to 
accompany  me. 

Our  passage  out  was  pleasant  and  expeditious,  arriving  off  the 
river  of  Senegal  on  the  twenty-seventh  day  after  leaving  Boston.  The 
wind,  which  had  blown  strong  the  day  before  cur  arrival,  had  not 
subsided  when  off  the  town;  and  the  surf  beat  so  heavily  on  the 
beach  as  to  prevent  any  communication.  We  stood  off  and  on  all 
day,  as  near  the  shore  as  was  prudent,  in  the  hope  that  some  canoe 
would  succeed  in  making  way  through  the  surf,  and  come  off  to  us  ; 
but,  at  each  attempt  they  made,  and  we  saw  them  make  several,  their 
canoes  were  upset.  At  length,  vve  perceived  them  to  be  leaving  the 
beach,  apparently  abandoning  the  design.  As  I had  no  expectation 
of  finding  the  vessel  at  this  place,  and  hoped  only  to  obtain  informa- 
tion of  her,  I did  not  consider  this  object  sufficient  to  justify  the  loss 
of  another  day,  and  consequently,  at  dark,  bore  away  to  the  south- 
ward. 

Arriving  at  the  Island  of  Goree  the  following  day,  we  there  ascer- 
tained that  the  vessel  of  which  we  were  in  pursuit  was  to  leeward, 
most  probably  at  the  Isles  de  Los.  Having  remained  twenty-four 
hours  at  Goree  and  obtained  a supply  of  water  and  refreshments,  we 
sailed  for  the  Isles  de  Los,  where  we  arrived  without  accident.  But 
the  vessel  sought  .was  not  there,  having  left  some  weeks  previous  for 
Sierra  Leone.  When  on  the  point  of  sailing  for  Sierra  Leone,  an 
arrival  directly  from  thence,  reported  the  vessel  in  question  to  have 
sailed  the  day  before  my  informant  for  Goree.  As  the  information 
appeared  to  be  such  as  could  be  relied  on,  it  was  obvious  that  a 
return  to  Goree  was  the  most  judicious  course.  In  conformity  with 
this  decision,  we  put  to  sea,  after  having  passed  forty-eight  hours  at 
the  Isles  de  Los  ; and  on  arriving  at  Goree  found  ourselves  in 
advance  of  the  vessel.  The  second  day,  however,  after  our  arriva' 
she  came  in  and  anchored  near  us. 


GOKEE. 


251 


On  going  on  board,  and  presenting  to  the  master  the  letter  from  the 
owners,  desiring  him  to  deliver  to  me  his  cargo,  and  to  take  my 
instructions  where  to  go  to  lade  with  a cargo  of  salt  for  the  United 
States,  he  directly  complied,  and  began  the  requisite  preparation  for 
shifting  the  cargo  from  one  vessel  to  the  other.  The  cargo,  which 
consisted  of  ivory,  wax,  gold  dust,  and  hides,  was  of  great  value,  and 
would  well  justify  the  additional  expense  incurred  to  insure  its  safety. 

While  engaged  in  transhipping  tire  cargo  into  my  vessel,  an 
English  brig-of-war  arrived  ; the  captain  of  which,  on  ascertaining  the 
object  of  my  voyage,  and  probably  suspecting  that  I possessed  infor- 
mation relative  to  the  critical  state  of  affairs  between  England  and 
the  United  States  of  which  he  was  ignorant,  concluded  to  take  charge 
of  my  vessel,  in  the  belief  that  such  information  might  soon  arrive  as 
would  make  her  a lawful  prize.  With  this  view,  he  put  a midship- 
man on  board,  with  directions  not  to  put  any  obstacles  in  the  way  of 
our  shifting  the  cargo  from  one  vessel  to  the  other,  or  taking  on  board 
that  portion  of  the  cargo,  yet  on  shore,  which  had  been  prepared 
against  the  return  of  the  vessel.  When  these  labors  were  accom- 
plished, our  water-casks  filled,  and  every  thing  made  ready  for  sea, 
there  had  been  no  arrival  ; consequently,  no  information  by  which 
the  captain  could  be  governed  in  detaining  us.  I then  wrote  him  a note, 
informing  him,  that  I was  ready  for  sea,  and,  as  there  existed  no  cause 
to  justify  our  detention,  I hoped  he  would  withdraw  the  officer  he  had 
put  on  board,  and  allow  me  to  proceed  ; otherwise,  I should  feel  it  to 
be  my  duty  to  abandon  the  property,  and  take  passage  in  a vessel 
then  about  sailing  for  England,  to  obtain  redress.  A few  hours  after 
the  receipt  of  my  letter,  he  sent  me  a verbal  message  that  I might 
proceed,  and  at  the  same  time  took  away  the  midshipman.  No  other 
obstacle  occurring  to  prevent  our  departure,  we  sailed  on  our  return  ; 
our  associate  left  at  the  same  time  for  the  river  Gambia  to  lade  with 
salt  for  home. 

Goree  is  an  island  of  very  small  extent,  and  in  itself  is  destitute  of 
all  resources,  but  its  formation  makes  it  easily  defensible  against  any 
force  which  the  neighboring  nations  are  capable  of  bringing  to  attack 
it.  Its  contiguity  to  the  continent  renders  it  a favorable  place  for  the 
establishment  of  European  trading  factories,  of  which  there  are  sev- 
eral. To  these  factories  the  negroes  of  the  continent  are  in  the 


252 


FOURTH  VOYAGE. 


habit  of  bringing  the  produce  of  the  country,  consisting  of  wax 
ivory,  gold-dust,  hides,  & c.,  which  they  barter  for  European  manu- 
factures and  trinkets.  Whilst  the  island  was  in  possession  of  the 
French,  from  whom  it  had  been  taken,  not  many  years  since,  the 
traffic  in  slaves  was  pursued  to  a great  extent.  The  annihilation  of 
this  traffic,  on  the  English  becoming  masters  of  the  island,  caused 
great  discontent  among  the  neighboring  chiefs,  who  were  thereby 
cut  off  from  the  principal  source  of  their  revenue,  and  hence  were 
greatly  dissatisfied  with  the  change. 

I had  an  opportunity  of  seeing,  at  a merchant’s  house,  three  of 
those  princes,  who  had  come  to  the  island  in  the  hope,  either  by  per- 
suasion or  threats,  to  do  away  the  prohibition,  or  to  induce  a conni- 
vance at  it ; or  to  dispose  of  slaves,  to  be  delivered  at  one  of  their 
own  ports.  They  were  all  fine  looking  men,  not  less  than  six  feet 
high,  and  well  proportioned.  Their  costume  was  in  barbaric  style, 
tawdry  and  showy  ; and  they  were  decorated  with  bracelets  and  other 
ornaments  of  gold,  peculiar  to  a savage  people.  Their  side-arms 
were  also  much  ornamented,  and  were  probably  very  costly.  When 
conversing  with  the  merchant,  on  the  subject  which  so  much  interest- 
ed them,  and  with  whom  in  by-gone  years  they  had  done  an  exten- 
sive business,  they  were  very  earnest  and  animated.  Their  unvary- 
ing theme  was  the  interdiction  of  trading  in  slaves,  which,  they 
alleged,  on  the  score  of  humanity,  should  be  done  away  with,  as, 
otherwise,  their  only  mode  of  proceeding  with  prisoners  of  war, 
would  be  to  put  them  to  death,  which  they  seemed  to  have  no  hesita- 
tion in  saying  would  be  the  consequence.  They  were  aware  that  the 
authorities  charged  with  the  government  of  the  island,  had  no  power 
to  alter  the  existing  state  of  things,  much  less  the  merchant,  with 
whom  they  were  conversing  ; but,  as  they  had  made  similar  observa 
tions  to  the  Commandant  of  the  place,  they  may  have  entertained  the 
hope,  that  some  representation  might  be  made  to  the  superior  govern- 
ment, which  would  induce  it  to  relax  the  severity  of  the  law  against 
the  traffic  in  slaves.  The  threat  of  destroying  the  prisoners  taken  in 
war,  unless  they  could  be  sold  as  slaves,  is  an  argument  which  has 
been  used  by  the  advocates  of  the  slave-trade,  both  white  and  black, 
throughout  the  whole  extent  of  the  slave  coast.  But  the  abettors  of 
this  most  infamous  traffic  are  as  well  aware  as  their  opponents,  that 


SAIL  FOR  THE  UNITED  STATES. 


253 


the  wars  of  Africa  are,  for  the  most  part,  waged  for  the  purpose  of 
obtaining  prisoners  to  be  sold  to  the  slave-dealers  ; and  that  when 
these  are  prevented  pursuing  their  traffic,  the  principal  cause  of 
those  wars,  which  have  been  productive  of  so  great  an  amount  of 
misery,  and  which  have  depopulated  vast  regions  of  country,  will 
cease. 

Having  sailed  from  Goree  immediately  on  being  released  from  the 
detention  caused  by  his  Majesty’s  brig,  we  proceeded  with  a fine 
wind  and  delightful  weather  for  the  United  States.  The  passage 
proved  uncommonly  pleasant  and  rapid,  and  our  invalid,  no  longer 
such,  had  derived  all  the  benefit  from  the  voyage  which  had  been 
anticipated.  During  the  passage  the  winds  were  so  steady  as  to 
supersede  the  necessity  of  reefing  a topsail,  or  even  taking  in  a 
top-gallant  sail  ; and  we  arrived  at  Salem  on  the  7th  of  July, 
1808,  having  been  absent  only  ninety-two  days,  and  having  accom- 
plished the  object  of  the  voyage  to  the  entire  satisfaction  of  all  inter- 
ested in  it. 

I had  been  flattering  myself,  that  by  the  time  I should  return  from 
Africa,  something  of  a decisive  character  would  have  taken  place  in 
relation  to  our  affairs  with  Great  Britain  ; either  a cessation  of  the 
violation  of  the  rights  of  neutrals,  and  the  consequent  raising  the 
embargo,  or  the  only  honorable  alternative,  war.  I perceived,  how- 
ever, on  landing,  that  neither  of  these  events  had  occurred.  The 
total  suspension  of  all  business  at  the  wharves,  and  the  gloomy  coun- 
tenances of  those  who  were  unaccustomed  to  idleness,  were  but  too 
convincing,  that  affairs  had  not  changed  for  the  better  during  my 
absence.  The  ordinary  bustle  of  business,  and  its  cheerfulness,  had 
given  place  to  a paralyzing  inactivity,  and  a sombre  foreboding,  that 
a calamity,  perhaps  greater  than  that  intended  to  be  averted,  might 
result  from  persisting  in  measures  which  were  producing  such  distress 
and  dissatisfaction  in  the  maritime  part  of  the  community. 

Satisfied  that  neither  of  the  alternatives,  war  or  a cessation  of  the 
embargo,  was  likely  soon  to  occur,  and  possessing  neither  means 
to  justify,  nor  disposition  to  submit  to  inactivity,  I determined  to 
proceed  to  England  ; and,  without  any  definite  object,  to  place 
myself  in  the  current  of  business,  and  take  my  chance  for  a favor- 
able result. 


22 


254 


FOURTH  VOYAGE 


With  this  view,  being  provided,  by  a kind  friend,  with  a credit  on 
London,  and  accompanied  by  two  companions,  whose  ob  ect  was 
similar  to  mine,  1 took  passage  about  the  middle  of  August,  1808,  for 
Halifax.  Owing  to  adverse  winds,  our  passage  was  tedious;  and  we 
failed  to  reach  there  in  time  for  the  Falmouth  packet.  More  than  a 
fortnight  elapsed  before  there  was  another  opportunity  for  Europe; 
and,  during  this  period,  we  had  abundant  leisure  for  becoming 
acquainted  with  the  localities  of  the  place  and  its  inhabitants.  Any 
description  of  the  former  would  be  superfluous  ; and  I will  only 
remark  of  the  latter,  generally,  that  every  opportunity  which  I had  of 
conversing  with  intelligent  people,  led  to  the  conclusion,  that  the 
rancorous  hatred  of  the  partisan  loyalists  existed,  in  full  vigor,  in  their 
descendents,  undiminished  by  the  lapse  of  time,  or  the  usually  amel- 
iorating influence  of  commercial  intercourse.  The  existing  state  ot 
the  political  relations  of  the  two  countries  may  have  operated  to  pro- 
duce a manifestation  of  hostile  feeling,  which  would  probably  have 
been  suppressed  in  less  exciting  times.  But  it  was  no  place  for  a 
citizen  of  the  United  States  to  pass  his  time  in  agreeably. 

An  opportunity  presenting  itself  by  a brig  bound  for  Scotland,  we 
left  Halifax  on  the  10th  of  September,  and  arrived  at  Lochraine,  in 
the  Clyde,  on  the  4th  of  October,  having  made  our  passage  in  safety, 
although  the  daily  inebriation  of  the  captain  and  mate  caused  us  to 
fear  a different  result.  Indeed,  we  had  abundant  reason  to  exult  in 
our  good  fortune  in  arriving  at  the  time  we  did  ; as,  only  a few  days 
afterwards,  occurred  the  equinoctial  gale,  which  was  uncommonly 
severe,  causing  such  a number  of  shipwrecks,  and  such  loss  of  lives, 
on  the  coasts  of  England  and  France,  as  had  not  occurred  in  any 
gale  for  a long  period.  We  took  the  easy  and  independent  convey- 
ance of  a post  chaise  for  London,  a distance  of  about  four  hundred 
miles;  and,  leaving  Lochraine  on  the  day  of  our  arrival,  were  con- 
veyed to  our  destination  in  four  days,  with  a degree  of  comfort  and 
celerity,  such  as  probably  could  not  be  experienced  at  the  time  in  any 
other  country  in  the  world. 

Throughout  the  whole  distance,  our  way  lay  through  rich  tracts  of 
highly  cultivated  lands,  interrupted,  at  intervals,  by  neat  villages,  and 
churches  of  venerable  aspect.  Occasionally,  as  we  had  a bird’s-eye 
view  from  some  hill,  the  divisions,  formed  by  the  neatly  trimmed 


ARRIVE  AT  LONDON. 


255 


hedges,  the  luxuriant  fertility  of  the  inclosures,  an  occasional  clump 
of  trees,  and  the  rich  verdure,  as  far  as  the  eye  could  reach,  gave  to 
the  whole  the  appearance  of  an  immense  and  beautiful  garden.  There 
was  nothing  remarkable  in  the  villages  through  which  we  passed, 
excepting  in  one,  where  1 noticed  an  advertisement  over  the  door  of 
a house,  stating,  that  it  was  the  business  of  the  occupant  to  show 
strangers  the  house,  in  which  Sir  Isaac  Newton  was  born.  Of  the 
large  towns  in  our  route  were  Dumfries,  Carlisle,  Penrith,  Newark, 
&c.  The  latter  contains  a fine  Gothic  Cathedral ; a door  of  which 
being  open,  we  entered,  for  a few  minutes,  while  our  horses  were 
changing,  and  heard  a beautiful  chant  by  some  young  performers, 
accompanied  by  a fine  organ. 

Arriving  at  London,  my  first  object  was  to  ascertain  the  result  of 
the  appeal  in  the  case  of  the  Telemaco.  It  appeared  that  the  agent 
of  the  captors  had  proposed  to  compromise,  by  returning  one  fourth 
the  amount  of  the  proceeds,  on  condition  of  relinquishing  the  prose- 
cution of  the  appeal.  This  proposition,  after  a consultation  with  that 
eminent  jurist,  Dr.  Lawrence,  was  acceded  to,  by  his  advice  ; and  I 
accordingly  received  between  three  and  four  thousand  dollars,  for  a 
property  which  cost  forty-seven  thousand  five  hundred  dollars.  The 
three  fourths,  or  twelve  thousand  dollars,  therefore,  of  my  property, 
divided  among  the  fleet,  would  give  to  the  Admiral  a sum  so  very 
small,  as  would  hardly  induce  him,  one  would  think,  to  violate  the 
eighth  commandment. 

The  abundance  of  French  wines,  which  had  been  brought,  in  prizes, 
into  Plymouth,  and  their  consequent  cheapness,  convinced  me  of  the 
advantage  which  would  result  from  a cargo  of  them  taken  to  the  Isle 
of  France.  While  in  doubt  how  I could  accomplish  this  object,  I 
accidentally  met  a friend,  who  had  just  arrived  in  a fine  ship,  for  which 
he  had  no  fixed  destination.  This  was  very  a propos.  On  making 
known  to  him  my  views,  and  offering  to  take,  on  my  account,  one 
third  of  the  adventure,  with  the  charge  of  the  enterprise,  he  readily 
agreed  to  it,  provided  that  a clearance  for  that  destination  could  be 
obtained  from  the  custom-house  at  London.  Satisfactory  information 
having  been  received  on  this  point,  the  cargo  was  immediately  pur- 
chased. When  the  ship  was  nearly  ready  to  proceed  to  Plymouth: 
to  take  it  on  board, some  new  excise  regulation  was  established,  which 


256 


FOURTH  VOYAGE. 


woul-d  prevent  our  obtaining  the  requisite  clearance  ; and,  as  insurance 
could  not  be  effected  without  this  document,  we  were  'compelled,  very 
reluctantly,  to  give  up  the  plan.  This  disappointment  was  much 
mitigated  by  such  an  advance  in  the  value  of  the  wine,  that,  on  a 
re-sale,  the  profit  op.  my  third  part  was  more  than  sufficient  to  defray 
all  my  expenses  in  Europe,  including  upwards  of  one  hundred  pounds 
sterling  for  board,  medical  attendance,  &c.  in  a pleurisy,  with  which 
1 was  seized  at  Exeter,  when  on  my  way  to  Plymouth.  This  was 
the  first  violent  illness  I had  ever  experienced  ; and,  for  several  days, 
the  physician  had  such  doubts  of  my  recovery,  that  he  considered  it 
necessary  to  apprize  my  friends  in  London  of  my  dangerous  situation. 
To  their  kindness,  in  sending  a skilful  and  efficient  person  to  take 
care  of  me,  I consider  myself  indebted  for  my  recovery. 

About  the  middle  of  March  I had  recovered  so  far  as  to  be  able  to 
go  to  London  by  easy  stages,  and  found  myself  much  benefited  by 
the  journey.  But  between  two  and  three  months  were  required  to 
recruit  my  strength  sufficiently  to  attend  again  to  business.  At  the 
end  of  this  period,  having  so  far  recovered  as  to  be  ready  for  new 
adventures,  and  perceiving  that  great  profit  would  be  derived  by  taking 
a cargo  from  Holland  to  the  United  States,  I determined  on  making 
an  effort  to  accomplish  it.  But  to  get  to  Holland,  at  this  time,  was  not 
an  easy  matter.  The  rigorous  measures  which  the  continental  pow- 
ers, under  the  control  of  Napoleon,  were  compelled  to  adopt  for  the 
interdiction  of  all  intercourse  with  England,  prevented  any  chance 
of  success  in  attempting  it  in  the  regular  and  ordinary  way ; and  the 
danger  was  great  in  trying  to  elude  the  vigilance  of  the  harpies,  who 
were  everywhere  on  the  watch  ; but  the  object  seemed  to  be  worth 
some  risk.  With  these  impressions,  and  accompanied  by  the  friend 
who  was  associated  with  me  in  the  purchase  of  the  wine  at  Plymouth, 
we  contracted  with  the  skipper  of  a Dutch  fishing-smack  to  land  us 
on  the  coast  of  Holland.  The  weather  was  very  fine,  and  the  sea  so 
smooth,  that  there  was  no  impediment  from  the  surf  to  landing  any- 
where along  the  coast.  Having  approached  the  shore,  and  watched 
for  some  time,  without  hearing  any  noise,  or  seeing  any  patrol,  we 
landed  about  eleven  o’clock  in  the  evening,  having  been  instructed  by 
the  skippar  what  course  to  take  for  the  Brille.  Each  carrying  a little 
bundle,  we  made  our  way  slowly  and  cautiously,  in  the  direction 


MEET  MR.  SHALER. 


257 


advised,  over  the  uneven  sand  hills,  without  road  or  path,  and  in  con- 
stant apprehension  of  being  challenged  by  the  patrol,  until  we  arrived 
so  near  the  Brille,  as  to  hear  the  clock  strike  two,  and  the  watchmen 
announce  the  hour.  We  then  concealed  ourselves  in  a hollow  of  the 
sand,  and  waited  the  approach  of  day. 

As  the  dawn  began  to  break  we  were  startled  by  a trampling  sound 
approaching  us ; whether  it  was  a patrol  or  not,  it  was  necessary  to 
start  up  to  avoid  being  trodden  on.  Our  relief  was  great  on  discover- 
ing that  it  was  only  a boy  driving  some  cows  to  pasture.  The  boy 
was  greatly  alarmed  at  the  sight  of  two  men  emerging  from  the 
hollow  of  the  sand  bank,  at  such  an  hour,  but  we  soon  quieted  him 
and  obtained  from  him  very  useful  directions  for  finding  the  tavern. 
We  were  received  particularly  well,  both  by  the  landlord  and  his  wife, 
who  were  opposed  to  measures  so  ruinous  to  their  business,  and,  con- 
sequently, were  very  ready  to  aid  strangers  in  any  way.  They 
provided  for  us  a most  excellent  breakfast,  the  relish  for  which  can 
be  best  imagined  by  those  who  have  had  a similar  preparation. 
When  we  had  finished  our  repast,  we  repaired  to  the  treckschuyt., 
or  canal  boat,  to  which  we  had  been  directed  by  the  landlord,  and 
which  was  about  leaving  for  the  capital.  We  went  on  board  among 
the  mass  of  passengers,  and  were  conducted  without  molestation  to 
Amsterdam.  We  immediately  perceived  that  the  difference  in  the 
relative  prices  of  the  exports  of  Holland,  there,  and  in  the  United 
States,  was  great  in  proportion  to  the  embarrassments,  which  had 
existed  in  that  commerce  ; and  as  the  British  had  given  notice  that 
a blockade  would  commence  on  the  1st  of  July,  this  difference  would 
necessarily  be  increased.  The  inducement,  therefore,  to  get  a cargo 
out  before  that  time  was  very  great ; and,  for  this  purpose,  unusual 
exertions  were  made  for  us  by  an  influential  mercantile  house,  which 
were  crowned  with  success.  A ship  was  chartered,  loaded,  and  des- 
patched for  New  York  before  the  blockade  commenced.  She  arrived 
there  in  safety,  and  our  anticipations  were  fully  realized  in  the  result 
of  the  adventure. 

Having,  as  I expected,  met  my  friend  Shaler  at  Amsterdam,  I was 
induced  to  give  up  taking  passage  in  the  ship  I had  chartered,  in  order 
to  execute  a plan  upon  which  we  had  agreed,  and  which  promised 
an  immense  result ; but  this  we  were  afterwards  unfortunately  com- 
22* 


258 


FOURTH  VOYAGE. 


pelled  to  abandon,  inconsequence  of  the  combined  obstacles,  in  addi 
tion  to  the  blockade,  of  the  invasion  of  the  Scheldt  by  a formidable 
force  under  Lord  Chatham,  and  of  a general  embargo  in  Holland. 
This  seemed  to  close  all  prospect  of  egress  for  me,  excepting  by 
land,  and  led  me  to  regret  not  having  availed  myself  of  the  fine 
opportunity  I bad  possessed  for  returning  home  in  the  ship  I had 
despatched  for  New  York.  Fortunately  for  me,  at  this  period,  our 
minister  to  France,  General  Armstrong,  was  on  a visit  to  Holland, 
and,  being  desirous  of  sending  despatches  to  the  United  States, 
obtained  the  release  of  the  ship  Montezuma,  of  Baltimore,  from  the 
effect  of  the  embargo;  and  she  was  immediately  despatched  for  that 
city.  In  this  ship  I took  passage  as  bearer  of  his  Excellency’s 
despatches.  The  ship  being  in  ballast,  there  existed  no  cause  of 
molestation  from  British  cruisers ; from  one  of  which,  a frigate,  we 
were  boarded  soon  after  leaving  the  port.  Aware  that  an  embargo 
existed  in  Holland,  the  boarding  officer  desired  to  be  informed  why 
we  were  released  from  its  effects?  The  captain  replied,  “By 
special  permission  of  government,  granted  at  the  request  of  the 
American  Minister,  to  take  despatches  to  the  United  States,  and,” 
pointing  to  me,  “ there,  Sir,  is  the  bearer  of  his  Excellency’s 
despatches.”  He  then  desired  me  to  accompany  the  captain  of  the 
Montezuma  on  board  the  frigate,  and  take  with  me  the  despatches. 
This  I declined.  He  then  proposed  sending  the  despatches  by  the 
captain.  This  I refused  to  do ; on  which  he  threatened  to  use  com- 
pulsion. During  this  altercation  the  frigate  had  neared  us,  when  the 
officer  hailed  and  informed  the  captain  that  there  was  a bearer  of 
despatches  on  board.  “ Bring  him  and  his  despatches  on  board,” 
was  the  order.  The  officer  replied,  “ He  says  he  will  neither  sur- 
render his  despatches  nor  leave  his  ship,  except  by  compulsion.” 
“ Then  let  him  stay  and  be  damned,”  was  the  characteristic  reply. 
The  ship’s  papers  having  undergone  the  ordinary  scrutiny,  and 
being  found  to  be  in  order,  we  were  permitted  to  proceed  on  our 
voyage. 

The  passage  was  long  and  boisterous,  and  I had  suffered  greatly 
from  the  effects  of  a bilious  fever,  consequent,  probably,  on  too 
early  an  exposure  to  the  damp  atmosphere  of  Holland,  after  my 
severe  pleurisy  in  England.  We  arrived  at  Baltimore  on  the  3d  of 


ARRIVE  AT  HOME. 


259 


November,  and,  as  I was  too  feeble  to  proceed  to  Washington  with 
the  despatches,  I delivered  them  to  the  collector  of  the  customs  to 
forward.  After  staying  a day  or  two  at  Baltimore  to  recruit,  I pro- 
ceeded, by  easy  stages,  to  my  long  desired  home,  at  Lancaster, 
Massachusetts,  and  arrived  there  on  the  12th,  greatly  emaciated  and 
iii  feeble  health. 


CHAPTER  XXI 


N«<wssity  for  seeking  a milder  Climate  — Sail  for  Naples  — Arrival  there  - - Conflso*. 
tion  Rome  visited — Ship  Margaret — Refused  a Passage  in  her — Disappointment 

Her  Loss  — Buy  the  Nancy  Ann  — Sail  with  a License  — Boarded  by  an  English 
Brig  of  War  Wrath  of  the  Captain  — Arrive  at  Lisbon  — Sell  my  Wine  there  — 
Embargo  — Raised  on  the  Retreat  of  Massena — Sail  for  England  — Arrive  at 
Plymouth  Narrow  Escape  from  Shipwreck — Standgate  Creek — Arrive  at  Lon- 
don — Termination  of  my  Charge. 


JtjFiOSlEN  months  had  elapsed,  between  my 
leaving  Boston  for  Halifax,  and  my  arrival  at  Balti- 
more. During  that  time,  although  my  efforts  in 
business  had  been  impeded  by  sickness,  I had, 
nevertheless,  cause  to  be  satisfied  with  the  progress 
I had  made  towards  retrieving  my  affairs.  But  my 
constitution  had  received  a shock,  which  it  would 
require  time  and  care  to  recover;  nor  was  it  deemed 
prudent,  that  I should  risk  the  effect  of  our  rigorous 
climate,  during  the  ensuing  winter,  but  seek  a more 
genial  one  in  the  south.  As  my  finances  were  at  too 
low  an  ebb  to  do  this  without  combining  some  business,  that 
would  offer  a prospect  of,  at  least,  defraying  my  expenses,  it 
was  desirable  to  adopt  some  plan  which  would  unite  the  two 
objects. 

A departure  from  the  rigor  of  the  continental  system  was  begin- 
ning to  be  manifested.  The  King  of  Naples  had  opened  his  ports  to 
neutral  commerce,  and  with  such  appearance  of  good  faith,  that 
insurance  on  adventures  there  could  be  effected  at  a reasonable  pre- 
mium. A voyage  to  Naples  was  therefore  decided  on;  and,  for  this 
purpose,  in  company  with  a friend,  I purchased  the  clipper-built 
schooner  Maria,  of  one  hundred  and  seventy  tons,  and  took  on  board 


SAIL  "FOR  N AF1.ES. 


261 


a valuable  cargo  of  vaiious  kinds  of  merchandise,  belonging  to  mer- 
chants of  Boston,  on  condition  of  receiving  half  the  profits  in  lieu  of 
freight. 

On  the  3d  of  December,  1S09,  only  one  month  from  the  day  of 
my  arrival  at  Baltimore,  1 again  left  my  family  and  saded  from  Bos- 
ton, in  the  Maria,  for  Naples.  We  arrived  there  in  safety,  after 
a very  pleasant  passage,  and,  as  usual  in  the  Mediterranean  ports, 
were  immediately  subjected  to  quarantine.  The  information  I receiv- 
ed from  the  merchant,  to  whom  I bad  letters,  was  very  gratifying  and 
satisfactory.  It  appeared  from  this,  that  there  was  no  article^  of 
which  our  cargo  was  composed,  that  would  not  yield  a profit  of  an 
hundred  per  cent,  and  some  much  more.  The  prospect,  therefore, 
of  making  a brilliant  voyage  was  very  great,  notwithstanding  dur 
numerous  competitors;  for  there  had  now  arrived,  within  a period 
of  thirty  days,  between  thirty  and  forty  vessels  from  the  United 
States,  allured,  like  ourselves,  by  the  flattering  prospect  present- 
ed on  first  opening  the  port,  which  had  been  so  long  closed  to 
neutrals. 

While  feeling  ourselves  in  perfect  security,  and  making  those  cal- 
culations on  a great  result,  which  the  direct  and  well-founded  infor- 
mation we  had  received  warranted,  and  when  only  about  two-thirds 
of  our  term  of  quarantine  had  expired,  we  had  notice  -of  there 
being  rumors  in  the  city  that  all  the  neutral  property  in  port  would 
be  confiscated.  These  rumors  were  soon  after  followed  by  the 
seizure  and  sale  of  the  cargoes  of  those  vessels  whose  term  of  quar- 
antine had  expired.  Captures,  confiscations,  and  burnings  at  sea, 
had  all  been  experienced,  by  my  countrymen,  by  the  order  of  Napo- 
leon, or  of  some  of  his  satellites.  But  to  invite  neutrals  into  port, 
with  the  assurance  of  protection,  and  then  strip  them  of  ail  their 
property,  is  a refinement  in  villanv,  in  meanness,  m baseness,  in  treach- 
erv,  worthy  only  of  the  barbarous  ages,  and  of  which  the  civilized 
world  affords  no  parallel.  There  could  exist  no  doubt  that  my  vessel 
and  caTgo  were  destined  to  share  the  fate  of  those  mentioned,  at  the 
expiration  of  the  quarantine,  yet  they  neither  unbent  the  sails,  unhung 
the  rudder,  nor  took  any  other  precaution  to  prevent  an  escape,  than 
to  place  a gun-boat  at  the  -mouth  of  (he  harbor.  As  we  lay  in  the 
outer  tier  of  the  vessels,  in  a .very  favorable  situation  for  going  out,  I 


262 


FIFTH  V0YAGF.. 


should  not  have  hesitated  making  the  attempt  but  from  the  conviction 
that,  in  case  of  failure,  the  insurance  would  be  vitiated.  The  chance 
was  as  four  to  one  in  getting  clear,  yet,  from  the  consideration  above 
mentioned,  I,  with  reluctance,  gave  it  up. 

The  government  was  so  pressed  for  money,  in  order,  as  was  generally 
supposed,  to  defray  the  expenses  of  a projected  expedition  to  Calabria, 
that,  in  several  instances,  they  did  not  wait  for  the  regular  expiration 
of  the  quarantine,  but,  contrary  to  all  former  example  or  precedent, 
made  the  pressure  of  circumstances  an  excuse  for  disregarding  a law, 
the  violation  of  which  would  be  death  to  an  individual.  They  took 
out  the  cargoes,  and,  without  even  any  semblance  of  the  formality 
of  trial,  sold  them,  together  with  the  vessel,  in  the  most  hurried  man- 
ner, and  for  prompt  payment.  In  this  unceremonious  manner  my 
vessel  and  cargo  were  taken  from  me,  and  not  even  a receipt  given 
for  them. 

The  difference  to  the  sufferer,  between  this  mode  of  proceeding  and 
that  of  a British  West  India  Vice-Admiralty  Court,  is  as  greatly  in 
favor  of  the  first,  as  candor  is  preferable  to  cunning;  as  a bold  thief 
to  a treacherous  one.  In  the  first  case,  there  is  no  prostitution  of 
common  sense  and  common  honesty,  in  seeking  for  a cause  of  con- 
fiscation, when  already  determined  on,  and,  consequently,  no  expen- 
diture of  time  or  money  requisite,  to  secure  the  recovery  of  the  insu- 
rance. In  the  second,  there  is  a hypocritical  pretence  of  seeking  for 
justice,  by  the  observance  of  the  formality  of  trial,  where,  in  nine 
instances  out  of  ten,  the  case  is  prejudged,  and  where  the  unfortu- 
nate sufferer  is  stripped  of  his  last  farthing,  by  the  insatiable  cupidity 
of  the  rogues  and  harpies  attached  to  the  Vice-Admiralty  Court,  but 
to  which  he  is  compelled  to  submit,  or  incur  the  risk  of  losing  the 
insurance. 

In  this  abominable  transaction,  there  is  no  doubt  the  great  mover 
was  Napoleon,  whose  mandate  Murat  had  not  the  moral  courage  to 
disobey,  preferring  the  dishonor  and  infamy  of  such  treachery,  such 
violation  of  good  faith,  to  the  momentary  resentment  of  the  Emperor. 
There  were,  at  Naples,  a great  number  of  people,  who  were  desirous 
of  possessing  many  articles  of  the  various  cargoes,  but  who  were 
deterred  from  purchasing,  at  the  government  sales,  from  conscieo- 


PREPARATIONS  FOR  LEAVING  NAPLES. 


263 


tious  scruples,  being  convinced  that  “ the  receiver  is  as  guilty  as  the 
thief.” 

Having  now  no  other  care  of  property,  than  to  provide  for  my  per- 
sonal expenses,  and  finding  no  immediate  opportunity  for  the  United 
States,  1 employed  my  time  in  visiting  the  numerous  objects  of  inter- 
est within  a few  miles  circuit  of  this  ancient  city  ; Pompeii,  Hercula- 
neum, Caserta,  Baiae,  Puzzuoli,  Averno,  Vesuvius,  &c.  I then  went 
to  Rome,  where  I passed  several  weeks,  and  had  an  opportunity  of 
seeing  all  the  great  objects  of  attraction,  which  have  been  celebrated 
for  so  many  centuries,  contained  within  the  walls  of  the  Eternal  city; 
and  also  of  visiting  Tivoli,  Frescati,  &c.  All  of  which  places  and 
objects  have  been  so  repeatedly  and  well  described,  by  professed 
authors  and  literary  men  of  both  hemispheres,  that  any  extended 
account  here  would  be  superfluous. 

On  my  return  to  Naples  I found,  that  some  arrangement  with  the 
government  had  been  made  by  Captain  Fairfield,  of  the  ship  Marga- 
ret of  Salem,  by  which  that  vessel  would  be  permitted  to  proceed  to 
the  United  States  as  a cartel;  and  I was  rejoiced  at  the  prospect  of  so 
fine  and  ready  an  opportunity  of  returning  home  Having  charge 
of  a valuable  investment  of  Italian  manufactures,  I proposed  to  Cap- 
tain Fairfield  to  pay  him  an  unusually  high  freight  for  them  ; but 
from  the  apprehension  that  their  quantity  would  prejudice  the  sale  of 
his  own  investment  more  than  would  be  balanced  by  any  amount  of 
freight  that  I could  afford  to  pay,  he  positively  declined.  My  disap- 
pointment was  very  great ; for,  if  I missed  this  opportunity,  there 
was  no  certainty  of  any  other  for  a long  period ; yet,  having  taken 
charge  of  the  property  in  question,  it  would  have  been  a breach  of 
trust  to  go  without  it.  Those,  who  remember  the  melancholy  fate  of 
that  ship,  will  perceive  the  providential  escape  that  I experienced. 
She  was  upset  at  sea.  A part  of  the  men  and  passengers  were 
saved  in  the  boat,  after  great  suffering  ; a part  perished  on  the  wreck; 
and  a few  were  rescued  from  it  when  near  expiring. 

That  I might  not  be  entirely  destitute  of  a resource  for  getting 
away,  I had  taken  the  precaution  to  write  to  London  for  a British 
license,  to  lade  a vessel  here  for  that  place.  This  had  arrived  a few 
days  after  my  failure  of  success  with  Captain  Fairfield  ; and,  being 
provided  with  the  requisite  credit  to  enable  me  to  use  the  license  to 


264 


FIFTH  VOYAGE. 


advantage,  I purchased  the  brig  Nancy  Ann  (one  of  the  condemned 
American  vessels,)  and  loaded  her  with  a cargo  of  wine,  raw  silk, 
liquorice,  rags,  &,c.  for  London.  The  men,  whom  I employed  in 
navigating  this  vessel,  were  just  so  many  saved  from  the  sufferings 
caused  by  the  loss  of  the  Margaret.  No  obstacle  having  been  put  in 
the  way  of  the  lading  and  departure  of  the  Nancy  Ann,  we  sailed  not 
many  days  after  the  Margaret.  Our  passage  down  the  Mediterra- 
nean was  very  smooth  and  pleasant.  Nothing  occurred  to  vary  its 
monotony  until  we  approached  the  straits  of  Gibraltar,  when  early, 
on  a very  fine  morning,  we  observed  a vessel  to  the  eastward,  under 
a crowd  of  sail,  apparently  in  chase  of  us  ; the  wind  being  very  light 
from  the  eastward.  When  the  hull  became  visible,  we  perceived 
that  a gun  was  occasionally  fired  ; but  we  kept  on  our  course  until 
the  afternoon,  when  she  had  so  neared  us,  that  her  shot  fell  within  a 
cable’s  length  astern.  We  then  rounded  to.  A boat  was  immedi- 
ately sent  to  take  me  and  my  papers  on  board  the  brig  of  war ; for 
such  was  the  vessel  which  had  been  chasing  us  so  long.  When  the 
mighty  man  saw  the  documents,  by  authority  of  which  I was  screen- 
ed from  English  aggression,  and  which  emanated  from  the  same 
source  as  his  own  commission,  and  consequently,  that  he  could  not 
molest  us,  he  cursed  and  swore  at  a tremendous  rate,  at  our  having,  as 
he  said,  so  unnecessarily  led  him  so  far  out  of  his  way.  The  Amer- 
icans, he  observed,  gave  them  more  trouble  than  all  other  neutrals 
combined  ; and  for  that  which  we  had  now  given  him,  he  swore  he 
would  send  us  in  to  Gibraltar.  Some  hasty  order  was  then  given, 
preparatory  to  the  execution  of  that  threat.  But  when  the  first  ebul- 
lition of  passion  had  passed,  and  this  probably  occurred  the  sooner 
for  my  making  no  reply,  a moment’s  reflection  convinced  him,  that, 
by  so  doing,  he  would  incur  the  risk  of  some  expense  to  himself 
without  a chance  of  making  us  a prize.  He  therefore  very  reluc- 
tantly dismissed  us  to  pursue  our  course,  while  he  proceeded  in  an 
opposite  direction. 

When  off  the  rock  of  Lisbon,  having  the  wind  ahead,  and  a pilot 
being  near  at  hand,  I concluded  to  enter  the  Tagus,  and  soon  came 
to  anchor  near  to  Belem  Castle.  This  was  an  important  epoch  in  the 
annals  of  Lisbon.  The  French  army,  under  Massena,  were  advancing 
with  a confidence,  inspired  by  the  acknowledged  talents  and  invariable 


ARRIVE  AT  LONDON. 


265 


success  of  their  commander.  The  combined  English  and  Portuguese 
army  had,  deservedly,  no  less  confidence  in  the  skill  and  intrepidity 
of  their  commander,  Sir  Arthur  Wellesley,  whose  line  of  defence  at 
Torres  Vedras,  could  be  forced  only  at  the  imminent  risk  of  destruc- 
tion to  the  invading  army.  While  the  opposing  armies  remained  in 
hostile  array,  the  inhabitants  of  Lisbon  were  engaged  in  preparing 
thei-r  most  valuable  effects,  in  order  to  put  them  on  board  the  British 
ships  of  War  at  a moment’s  notice;  and  that  no  means  of  saving  their 
property  might  be  neglected,  an  embargo  was  laid  on  all  vessels 
in  port.  Affairs  remained  in  this  critical  state  about  ten  days  ; when 
information  was  received,  that  Massena  declined  hazarding  an  assault; 
had  abandoned  his  plan,  and  had  begun  his  retreat.  The  embargo, 
in  consequence,  was  immediately  raised  ; and  tranquillity  and  peace 
were  restored  to  the  inhabitants.  In  the  mean  time,  the  Commissary 
of  the  army  had  applied  to  purchase  the  wine,  composing  a part  of 
my  cargo ; and  it  was  disposed  of  to  him  very  advantageously. 
Having  passed  a fortnight  at  Lisbon,  I took  advantage  of  a convoy 
bound  to  England,  of  about  a dozen  sail,  protected  by  a frigate. 
Arriving  safely  in  the  channel,  I parted  with  them  in  sight  of  the 
Eddy-stone,  and  went  into  Plymouth,  while  they  pursued  their  course 
to  the  eastward.  The  winter  was  one  of  uncommon  severity  ; and 
the  frequent  violent  gales  were  very  destructive  to  the  shipping. 
We  had  been  anchored  scarcely  twenty-four  hours  in  Plymouth  roads, 
before  experiencing  a gale,  w’hich  nearly  proved  fatal  to  ship  and 
crew.  We  lost  two  anchors  ; and  but  for  the  adroit  management  of 
a skilful  pilot,  who  had  remained  on  board,  and  conducted  us  to  an 
inner  harbor,  the  voyage  would  have  ended  disastrously. 

I had  hoped,  that,  as  respected  myself,  the  voyage  would  terminate 
here,  and  that  I should  be  relieved  from  further  winter  navigation  in 
the  channel.  Not  so  ; it  was  necessary  that  the  vessel  should  proceed 
to  London  ; before  which,  we  should  be  obliged  to  pass  some  days  in 
quarantine  at  Standgate  Creek.  It  appeared,  that  neither  our  having 
been  so  long  at  Lisbon,  and  having  ventilated  the  ship,  by  discharg- 
ing the  bulk  of  the  cargo,  nor  our  remaining  any  lengtii  of  time  at 
Plymouth,  would  tend  to  diminish  a day  of  the  number  prescribed  for 
vessels  from  the  Mediterranean.  We  hastened,  therefore,  to  arrive 
there,  and  succeeded  without  the  occurrence  of  any  mishap.  In  this 
23 


266 


FIFTH  VOYAGE. 


truly  dreary  place,  in  cold  winter  weather,  and  without  a fire  in  the 
cabin,  I was  compelled  to  pass  ten  days  of  more  tardy  progress  than 
I ever  experienced  before.  The  day  of  our  release  from  this  detesta- 
ble place  was  one  of  jubilee  to  all  on  board.  The  vessel  and  cargo 
were  delivered  to  the  agent  at  London,  where  I remained  through 
the  winter. 


CHAPTER  XXII. 


Buy  a Vessel  and  Cargo  — Sail  for  Copenhagen  — Wrecked  on  Jutland — Save  th*® 
Cargo  Honest  Character  of  the  People — Arrive  at  Copenhagen  — Send  an  Agent 
to  take  Charge  of  the  Cargo — French  Privateer  at  Elsineur — Go  to  Riga  and  back 
Import  a Cargo  from  London — Seized  at  Copenhagen  — Released  too  Late  — 
Frozen  Up  Proceed  to  Hamburgh  — Bombardment  — Capitulation  — General 
Hogendorf — His  Civility  — Proceed  to  Paris  — To  Nantz  — To  Bordeaux  — Embark 
in  a Clipper  Pass  through  an  English  Fleet  of  Merchantmen  — Their  Dismay  — 
Often  chased,  particularly  on  our  own  Coast — Great  Superiority  of  Sailing  — Ar- 
rive at  New  York 


S waiting  without  employment  at  Londoi 
in  the  hope  that  some  event  would  occur  ii 
which  I might  exert  my  energies,  a little  vessel 
laden  with  wine,  arrived  from  Naples,  to  the 
address  of  my  friend.  This  I could  obtain,  on 
terms  which  were  within  my  compass  ; and  knowing 
the  demand  for  such  kind  of  wine  in  Denmark,  I 
purchased  the  vessel  and  cargo  for  that  destination. 
The  safety  of  the  voyage  depended  on  our  entering 
direct  from  Naples  without  having  stopped  at  any  inter- 
mediate port;  hence  the  necessity  of  engaging  the  same 
master  to  proceed  in  her,  and  of  avoiding  any  delay  in  the 
Thames.  Having  succeeded  in  engaging  the  master  and 
crew,  who  came  from  Naples  in  the  vessel,  to  proceed  in 
l''  her  to  Denmark,  and  erased  from  the  log-book  the  notice  of 

her  having  touched  in  England,  I embarked  as  supercargo  from  Na- 
ples. Being  all  ready,  about  the  middle  of  August,  1811,  we  put  to 
sea,  taking  a good  departure  from  Orfordness  Lights  on  Thursday 
night.  The  wind  was  from  the  westward,  and  blew  a strong  breeze 
during  the  night  and  following  day.  On  Friday  and  Saturday  the 
wind  continued  favorable.  Towards  night  the  wind  and  sea  increased 


268 


FIFTH  VOYAGE. 


with  very  dark  weather  and  occasional  squalls.  As  the  captain  sup- 
posed himself  to  be  fifty  or  sixty  miles  from  the  nearest  land,  and  as 
the  darkness  at  this  season  lasted  only  seven  hours,  I went  to  bed 
with  entire  confidence  in  our  safety,  and  in  the  belief  that  we  should 
not  get  sight  of  the  land  before  eight  or  ten  o'clock  next  morning. 
But  the  event  showed  that  our  calculations  were  so  erroneous  as  to  be 
accounted  for  only  by  a strong  current.  At  dawn,  on  Sunday  morn- 
ing, I was  roused  from  my  slumbers  by  the  hard  thumping  of  the 
vessel,  and  the  roaring  of  the  breakers  in  which  we  were  enveloped. 
The  water  was  passing  down  the  companion-way  in  torrents  ; and 
watching  an  opportunity,  I succeeded  in  getting  on  deck,  though  not 
without  a complete  drenching.  The  vessel  lay  broadside  to  the  sea, 
which  broke  high  over  her;  she,  however,  having  heeled  in  shore, 
afforded  us  some  shelter.  She  soon  bilged,  and  having  become  water- 
logged, lay  comparatively  quiet;  and  as  the  tide  soon  fell  so  as  to 
leave  her  dry,  we  all  landed  on  the  beach  of  Jutland,  in  safety. 

No  sooner  was  it  daylight,  than  the  inhabitants  came  to  us  in  great 
numbers  ; and  as  it  was  obvious  that  saving  the  cargo  depended  on 
the  best  improvement  of  the  time,  before  the  return  of  the  tide,  as 
many  were  engaged  as  could  work  to  any  advantage,  under  the  direc- 
tion of  men  appointed  by  authority  to  act  on  such  emergencies.  The 
tide  had  not  ebbed  more  than  a foot  at  the  time  the  vessel  struck,  so 
that  the  opportunity  of  saving  the  cargo  was  very  favorable.  The 
day  was  fine,  and  enabled  us  to  dry  our  clothes.  In  this  process, 
although  our  various  wardrobes  were  extended  over  the  beach,  and 
might  easily  have  been  purloined,  and  although  there  were  many 
persons  about  us,  apparently  in  very  indigent  circumstances,  we  lost 
nothing.  The  operation  of  discharging  the  cargo  being  so  systema- 
tized, that  the  labor  of  each  one  was  applied  to  the  greatest  advan- 
tage, they  had  so  nearly  accomplished  the  unlading,  before  the  tide 
again  flowed  into  the  vessel,  as  to  secure  the  safety  of  the  entire 
cargo.  It  was  not  until  the  fourth  day  after  being  wrecked,  that  I 
could  obtain  a passport  to  proceed  to  Copenhagen  ; as  the  magistrate 
examined  each  individual  separately  relative  to  the  origin  and  object 
of  the  voyage,  and  with  great  care,  and  thus  became  acquainted  with 
our  being  last  from  England.  A seizure  of  the  whole  property  was 
the  consequence.  Having  obtained  my  passport,  a fatiguing  jour- 


COPENHAGEN. 


269 


ney  of  three  days  and  nights,  over  a rough  road,  brought  me  to  the 
Danish  capital. 

As  soon  as  the  authorities  at  Copenhagen  were  made  acquainted 
with  the  circumstances  of  the  case,  an  order  was  given  for  the  release 
of  the  property,  and  an  agent  from  the  house  of  Ryberg  & Co.  was 
despatched  to  take  charge  of  it.  One  fourth  of  the  cargo  being  award- 
ed as  salvage,  the  other  three  were  sold  on  the  strand,  at  a great 
profit,  and  the  vessel  was  sold  for  the  benefit  of  the  underwriters. 
This  disaster,  which,  at  the  moment,  caused  me  great  pain  and  disap- 
pointment, proved  to  be  a circumstance  of  great  good  fortune  ; for, 
had  we  proceeded  on  our  course,  without  interruption,  we  should 
have  gone  directly  into  the  hands  of  a French  privateer,  then  lying 
at  Elsineur,  ready  to  pounce  upon  every  defenceless  neutral  that 
came  in  her  way.  At  that  period,  condemnation  was  sure  to  succeed 
a French  capture,  on  the  slightest  pretext.  There  would,  conse- 
quently, have  been  no  chance  of  escape  for  a vessel  directly  from 
England. 

As  soon  as  my  affairs  in  Jutland  were  brought  to  a close,  the  pro- 
ceeds were  anticipated  and  invested  in  an  adventure  to  Riga,  to 
procure  a cargo,  then  much  wanted  at  Copenhagen.  I was  secured 
against  the  Danish  privateers,  then  swarming  in  the  Baltic,  by  a license 
from  the  King.  This  voyage  was  completed  satisfactorily  by  a safe 
return,  in  November,  1811,  and  with  a small  profit.  During  the 
ensuing  winter,  I remained  at  Copenhagen,  and  engaged  in  shipping 
several  cargoes  of  grain  to  England  from  Holstein  ; and  in  importa- 
tions thence,  under  licenses  from  the  two  governments,  from  which 
some  benefit  was  derived. 

The  succeeding  summer  was  one  of  surpassing  interest  and  excite- 
ment. Information  had  reached  us  of  the  declaration  of  war  bv  the 
government  of  the  United  States  against  Great  Britain.  A circum- 
stance, forboding  events  of  the  most  thrilling  character;  some  of 
which  soon  followed  that  information ; such  as  the  surrender  of  De- 
troit to  the  enemy,  and  the  triumph  over  the  boasted  invincibility  of 
British  ships  of  war,  in  the  capture  of  the  frigate  Guerriere  by  the 
Consti  ition.  But  what  bearing  was  this  new  state  of  things  to  have 
on  my  prospects  ? And  what  advantage  could  be  made  of  them  to 
furthei  my  views?  were  questions  of  no  easy  solution.  A barrier 
23* 


270 


FIFTH  VOYAGE. 


seemed  to  be  placed  to  my  return  home,  in  any  other  than  the 
expensive  way  of  proceeding  to  France.  Nothing  short  of  the  pros- 
pect of  bettering  my  fortune,  would  justify  prolonging  my  stay  in 
Europe  ; and  this  prospect  was  so  good,  if  certain  obstacles  could  be 
overcome,  that  I determined  on  making  the  attempt. 

The  protracted  and  accumulated  restrictions  on  all  neutral  com- 
merce, and  the  interdiction  of  all  intercourse  oetween  England  and 
France,  had  caused  such  an  accumulation  of  every  description  of 
merchandise,  in  the  store-houses  of  the  former,  as  to  reduce  their 
prices  greatly  below  the  ordinary  standard.  The  same  causes  had 
operated,  in  an  adverse  ratio,  in  France.  Hence  the  difference  in  the 
relative  prices  of  many  articles  of  merchandise  in  the  two  countries, 
was  so  enormous  as  to  be  almost  incredible.  It  was  obvious,  then, 
that  the  introduction  of  a cargo  into  France  from  England  was  an 
object  worthy  of  great  efforts  ; one  which  would  justify  the  incurring 
of  great  risks,  and  would  require  the  aid  of  influential  men  in  office. 
To  elude  the  rigor  of  the  continental  system  was  an  achievement  of 
no  ordinary  magnitude,  and  could  only  be  done  by  means  of  licenses, 
and  in  so  circuitous  a manner,  as  to  escape  the  vigilance  of  the 
French  Douaniers. 

After  great  difficulty  and  delay,  and  a most  laudable  perseverance 
our  agent  at  Paris  succeeded  in  obtaining  a license  for  the  introduc- 

o r* 

tion  of  a cargo  from  Copenhagen  into  Hamburgh  via  Kiel,  to  be 
accompanied  with  certificates,  that  the  articles  composing  it  were  the 
product  of  Danish  industry  and  commerce.  This  first  and  great  diffi- 
culty overcome,  the  next  measure  was  much  easier;  to  obtain  from 
the  Danish  government  a license  for  the  introduction  into  Copenhagen 
of  a cargo  from  England.  This  was  granted,  on  condition  of  except- 
ing all  articles  unaccompanied  with  properly  authenticated  certificates 
of  neutral  origin.  As  there  existed  no  apprehension  of  any  embar- 
rassment from  the  English  government,  the  requisite  measures  were 
taken  to  have  shipped  at  London,  such  a cargo  as  was  in  greatest 
demand,  at  its  place  of  destination. 

Th  is  adventure  arrived  safely  at  Copenhagen,  in  June,  and  we 
could  immediately  have  obtained  a very  great  advance  on  its  cost ; 
but  the  prospect  was  so  much  greater  at  Hamburgh,  the  place  of  its 
destination,  that  the  maxim  of  the  “ bird  in  the  hand.”  &c.  did  not 


VESSEL  SEIZED. 


seem  applicable  to  this  case.  While  engaged  in  unlading  the  cargo, 
preparatory  to  its  being  re-laden  in  the  Danish  coasters  destined  for 
Kiel,  we  were  arrested  in  our  progress,  and  confounded  by  one  of 
those  difficulties,  which  could  not  be  foreseen  or  imagined.  It  arose 
from  the  circumstance  of  my  associate  in  the  adventure  having  been 
a British  subject.  He  was  one  of  the  proscribed  Irish,  and  was 
among  those  engaged  in  the  battle  of  Vinegar  Hill.  Since  that  period 
he  had  been  engaged  in  the  mercantile  business  on  the  continent,  and 
during  the  two  last  years  had  resided  at  Copenhagen.  Some  malicious 
or  envious  person  denounced  him  to  the  government  as  an  English 
subject;  and  declared,  moreover,  that  the  property  he  represented 
was  English.  In  consequence  of  this,  the  property  was  seized,  and 
an  investigation  instituted,  which  was  prolonged  in  a manner  worthy 
of  the  tribunals  of  Spain. 

There  was  a fatality  attending  this  adventure  which  was  very 
remarkable.  Its  possession  could  be  no  object  to  the  government, 
nor  had  we  any  serious  apprehension  of  its  eventual  confiscation  • 
yet,  there  seemed  to  be  an  unaccountable  disposition  to  procrastinate. 
The  government,  hitherto,  had  paid  great  deference  to  the  representa- 
tions of  our  worthy  Charge  d' Affaires,  and  in  attempting  to  procure 
the  release  of  this  property,  he  exerted  himself  with  as  much  zeal 
and  earnestness  as  if  it  had  been  his  own,  but  ineffectually.  Even 
a proposal  for  its  release,  on  giving  bonds,  was  refused.  Month  after 
month  passed  away,  and  we  saw  the  season  rapidly  approaching, 
which  would  stop  the  intercourse,  by  water,  between  Copenhagen  and 
Kiel,  without  the  power  of  doing  any  thing.  At  length,  it  was  dis- 
covered that  the  property  had  been  unjustifiably  kept  from  its  owners, 
and  consequently  it  was  restored  to  them.  But,  unfortunately,  the 
time  had  gone  by  when  such  decision  would  have  been  most  import- 
ant to  us,  for  it  was  now  the  middle  of  October.  Nevertheless,  if 
the  winter  did  not  set  in  this  year  earlier  than  it  did  the  last,  we  might 
succeed  in  transporting  our  cargo  to  Kiel. 

No  exertions  were  spared  for  the  accomplishment  of  this  desirable 
object,  but  we  were  destined  to  meet  with  continued  disappointments. 
One  of  the  coasting  vessels  had  part  of  a cargo  on  board  to  be  dis- 
charged before  lading  ours  another  had  some  little  repairs  to  make, 
and  no  one  was  orocurable  that  would  engage  in  the  business,  with 


272 


FIFTH  VOYAGE. 


the  spirit  that  the  case  so  imperiously  demanded.  The  consequence 
was  as  we  had  dreaded  ; the  cold  weather  commenced  six  weeks 
earlier  than  it  hud  done  the  last  year.  By  the  time  the  vessels  had 
completed  their  lading,  they  were  fast  enclosed  in  the  ice,  and  so 
remained  during  the  winter.  Still,  though  this  was  a disappointment, 
as  it  would  greatly  retard  the  realization  of  our  expectations,  yet  there 
existed  no  cause  then  to  apprehend  any  depreciation  in  the  value  of 
the  property  in  the  ensuing  spring. 

Before  Napoleon  had  experienced  any  check  in  his  victorious 
career,  a mercantile  adventure,  predieatecj  on  the  maintenance  of  his 
supremacy,  would  have  been  considered  a safe  one  ; but  Napoleon’s 
power  proved  itself  weakness  when  contending  with  the  elements. 
The  severe  weather,  which  had  been  so  prejudicial  to  my  operations, 
continuing  to  increase  as  the  winter  advanced,  will  long  be  remem- 
bered, by  its  terrible  disastrous  effects  on  the  French  army  in  Russia. 
The  destruction  of  this  army  was  a death-blow  to  the  continental  sys- 
tem, and,  of  course,  to  all  my  fair  prospects  founded  on  its  continu- 
ance. 

The  spring  of  181.3  opened  with  an  emancipation  of  Europe  from 
the  tyranny  of  Napoleon.  His  Russian  campaign  had  been  so  terribly 
disastrous,  that  even  the  fertility  of  his  great  mind  was  unequal  to 
providing  other  remedy  than  such  as  deferred  his  prostration  a few 
months.  The  prospect  of  the  ordinary  channels  of  commerce  being 
once  more  opened,  produced  its  natural  effect  on  all  merchandise  at 
Hamburgh;  prices  were  nominal;  there  was  no  sale  for  any  thing; 
everybody  was  anxiously  waiting  the  denouement  of  the  grand  drama. 
Under  such  circumstances,  it  is  almost  needless  to  say,  that  all  my 
hopes  from  the  adventure,  with  which  I had  been  so  long  occupied, 
were  destroyed.  This  adventure,  had  it  reached  Hamburgh  in  time, 
would  have  yielded  a profit  of  several  hundred  per  cent.,  and  secured 
to  me  independence;  but,  when  it  did  arrive  there,  its  value  was 
reduced  below  the  original  cost,  and  finally  wound  up  with  very  con- 
siderable loss. 

To  bring  my  affairs  to  a close  with  the  least  possible  sacrifice, 
necessarily  consumed  a considerable  portion  of  the  summer.  During 
this  period  the  city  exhibited  on  a small  scale,  and  for  many  days  in 
succession,  the  turmoil,  activity,  and  excitement,  incident  to  being 


HAMBURGH. 


273 


besieged.  The  French  were  attempting  to  regain  possession  of  it, 
by  a bombardment  from  the  opposite  bank  of  the  river,  and  by 
repeated  efforts,  in  the  nights,  to  transport  a body  of  troops  across. 
Their  means  of  annoyance  by  shells,  however,  were  very  feeble,  and 
in  their  attempts  to  cross  the  river  they  were  invariably  foiled.  The 
city  was  defended  by  its  own  militia,  who  fought  bravely,  and  like 
men  who  feel  that  every  thing  is  at  stake,  which  is  worth  defending. 
These  were  supported  by  a well-disciplined  body  of  Danish  regular 
troops,  and  by  a small  number  of  Russians  ; the  whole  commanded 
by  a Russian  General.  In  this  stale  of  affairs,  none  were  exempted 
from  bearing  arms,  not  even  strangers,  as  was  evinced  in  my  own 
person;  for,  being  led  by  curiosity  to  a point  where  I heard  much 
firing,  I was  arrested  by  a patrol,  on  the  look-out  for  stragglers,  and 
marched  into  an  enclosure  where  were  many  others  in  the  same  pre- 
dicament. To  all  of  us  muskets  and  ammunition  were  furnished,  and 
here  we  were  kept  inactive  throughout  the  day,  as  a corps  de  reserve. 
Towards  sunset,  on  a cessation  of  the  attack,  we  were  all  released, 
to  our  great  joy,  as  we  had  had  nothing  to  eat  all  day.  While  the 
citizens  of  Hamburgh  were  rejoicing  at  the  success  of  their  arms 
thus  far,  and  encouraged  to  persevere  in  foiling  the  continual  attacks 
of  the  opposing  forces,  in  order  to  save  themselves  from  the  dreaded 
domination  of  the  French,  they  were  all  suddenly  confounded  and 
dismayed  by  an  order  from  the  King  of  Denmark  for  the  withdrawal 
of  his  troops  ; an  order,  understood  to  be  in  consequence  of  the 
failure  of  some  negotiation  of  Count  Bernstorff  with  the  British 
Cabinet. 

As  the  principal  means  of  resistance  was  thus  withdrawn,  and  the 
remainder  were  incompetent  to  justify  a longer  defence,  the  author- 
ities determined  on  capitulating  while  they  were  yet  in  a position  to 
secure  advantageous  terms.  Accordingly,  the  Russian  General  with 
his  troops,  withdrew  towards  the  north  ; the  capitulation  was  con- 
summated, and  the  French  became  once  more  masters  of  Hamburgh. 
After  a few  days,  when  the  garrison  was  quartered,  the  police  regula- 
ted, and  the  quiet  of  military  despotism  reigned  within  the  city,  a 
procession  was  formed,  composed  of  the  soldiers,  and  headed  by 
Marshal  Davoust  and  his  staff,  in  their  splendid  habiliments,  which 
proceeded  to  the  little  St.  Michael’s  church,  to  aid  in  the  performance 


274 


FIFTH  VOYAGE. 


of  a Te  Deum,  in  gratitude  to  the  Supreme  Ruler  of  the  universe,  fot 
giving  that  success  to  their  arms,  which  had  placed  in  their  power  an 
unoflending  people,  whose  property  they  intended  to  plunder  by  heavy 
taxation,  and  whose  sons  they  intended  to  enslave,  by  making  them 
conscripts.  “ 0 tempora ! 0 mores  ! ” Only  a few  weeks  after 
gaining  possession  of  the  city,  the  French,  in  their  turn,  were 
besieged  by  the  Russians,  Cossacks,  and  Swedes,  and  this  was  the 
state  of  affairs  when  I left  the  city. 

Having  at  length  brought  my  business  to  a close  at  Hamburgh,  and 
perceiving  no  course  that  I could  pursue  for  retrieving  my  fortune  in 
Europe,  in  which  there  was  not  great  risk,  I determined  to  proceed 
forthwith  to  the  United  States,  and  there  endeavor  to  obtain  the  com- 
mand of  a letter  of  marque  for  a voyage  to  China  or  the  Pacific. 
As  the  best  course  for  getting  most  expeditiously  to  the  United  States, 
was  evidently  via  France,  I applied  to  the  French  commander  of  the 
city,  General  Hogendorf,  for  a passport.  The  General,  I found, 
spoke  English  perfectly  well.  He  was  very  civil  and  affable,  and 
desired  his  secretary  not  to  delay  providing  me  with  the  passport  I 
asked.  He  observed  to  me,  that  I should  run  a great  risk  of  being 
taken  and  robbed  by  the  Cossacks,  who,  he  said,  were  very  numerous 
in  the  vicinity.  On  the  fall  of  the  fortunes  of  Napoleon,  this  officer 
retired  to  the  interior  of  Brazil,  where  he  passed  several  years  in 
obscurity,  engaged  in  the  humble  occupation  of  collecting  and  pre- 
serving insects,  until  his  death,  which  occurred  there  only  a few 
years  since.  One  of  the  regular  government  couriers,  who  have  the 
privilege  of  taking  any  person  with  them,  being  about  to  start  for 
Paris,  I obtained  a seat  with  him.  The  car  for  our  conveyance  was 
a most  uncouth  vehicle  ; it  had  two  wheels  only,  and  being  fixed  on 
the  axletree,  had  no  spring  ; consequently,  the  jarring  in  many  places, 
over  rough  roads,  was  excessive  ; but  the  advantage,  night  and  day, 
of  never  having  to  wait  longer  for  horses  than  the  time  requisite  for 
changing  them,  was  great ; although  it  gave  us  no  other  chance  to 
sleep  or  eat,  than  while  on  our  way.  We  fortunately  escaped  the 
Cossacks,  and  arrived  at  Brussels  in  safety;  but  so  excessively 
fatigued,  that  I was  glad  to  rest  a day  or  two  there,  and  to  depend  on 
the  diligence  for  conveying  me  the  remainder  of  the  journey. 

Arriving  at  Paris  in  October,  I learned  that  a fast-sailing  ship 


LEAVE  FRANCE. 


275 


would  leave  Nantes  for  the  United  States,  in  about  three  weeks. 
After  passing  a fortnight  at  Paris,  I took  the  diligence  for  Nantes,  to 
examine  the  ship  in  question.  She  was  a beautiful  vessel,  and  was 
represented  to  be  a very  swift  sailer;  but,  it  was  obvious,  that  the 
chance  of  escape  for  such  a vessel,  under  equal  circumstances,  would 
be  less  than  that  of  a Baltimore  clipper,  and  I therefore  delayed 
engaging  a passage  until  I should  hear  from  Bordeaux,  in  answer  to 
my  inquiries  on  the  subject.  This  information  was  soon  received, 
and  was  such  as  determined  me  to  proceed  there.  I arrived  there  just 
in  time  to  secure  a passage  in  a vessel,  which  might  have  served  Mr. 
Cooper  for  his  description  of  the  Water  Witch  ; for  she  was  like  thal 
portrait  in  every  point.  Her  commander,  Captain  Isaacs,  was  a most 
experienced  and  accomplished  seaman,  and  admirably  qualified  for 
such  a command.  With  such  a combination,  I felt  no  less  confidence 
in  making  our  passage  safely,  than  I should  have  done  in  a time  of 
profound  peace. 

At  dawn,  on  the  second  morning  after  leaving  the  Cordovan,  we  found 
ourselves  in  the  midst  of  a fleet  of  merchant  vessels,  which  were 
steering  to  the  south.  The  confusion  which  such  a suspicious  and 
unwelcome  apparition  caused  among  them  was  very  great,  and  to  us, 
very  amusing.  Some  of  those  astern,  lay  by,  unwilling  to  approach 
us  ; others  let  run  their  mainsail,  or  brailed  up  their  spankers,  and 
wore  round  on  the  opposite  tack  ; those  that  were  ahead  crowded  all 
sail,  to  increase  the  distance  from  us,  and  spread  out,  that  there  might 
be  more  chance  of  escape  for  some.  They  were  evidently  English 
vessels,  though  they  showed  no  colors,  and  their  convoy,  if  they  had 
any,  was  not  in  sight.  If  we  had  been  prepared  with  the  requisite 
number  of  men,  we  could  have  taken  and  conveyed  to  Bordeaux, 
almost  any  number  of  them  ; but,  neither  the  strength  of  our  ship’s 
company,  the  instructions  to  our  commander,  or  the  object  of  the 
voyage,  would  justify  our  making  captures  ; hence,  we  did  not  deviate 
from  our  course,  but  proceeded  on  to  the  westward,  leaving  our  fright- 
ened neighbors  astonished  at  finding  themselves  unmolested. 

During  the  passage,  we  were  chased  a numberof  times;  and  once, 
at  early  dawn,  on  our  own  coast,  we  perceived  a frigate  almost  within 
gun-shot  of  us.  With  a fine,  brisk  breeze,  she  crowded  all  sail  in 
chase  of  us  ; but  we  had  soon  convincing  evidence  of  our  great 


2?fi 


FIFTH  VOYAGE. 


superiority  in  sailing,  as,  before  noon,  although  persisting  in  the  pur- 
suit, her  hull  was  not  visible  from  our  deck.  The  next  day,  the  1st 
of  January,  1814,  we  arrived  safely  at  New  York. 

Four  years  had  now  elapsed  since  nay  departure  from  Boston,  in 
the  schooner  Maria  for  Naples,  and  during  that  period,  it  will  have 
been  seen,  that  no  efforts  were  spared,  no  deficiency  of  perseverance 
evinced,  and  no  opportunity  allowed  to  pass  unembraced,  which  pre- 
sented the  prospect  of  bettering  my  fortune.  What  I attempted,  and 
with  what  unfortunate  results,  are  detailed  in  the  few  preceding  pages. 

I was  once  again  landed  on  my  native  shore,  in  good  health,  and 
with  an  empty  purse  ; but  buoyed  above  the  immediate  pressure  of 
such  accumulated  disappointments,  by  indulging  the  pleasing  antici- 
pation of,  at  least,  a short  repose  in  the  bosom  of  my  family. 


CHAPTER  XXIlt. 


Invited  to  take  Charge  of  a Voyage  to  Teneriffe  and  Batavia  — Sail  from  Salem  in 
Ship  Exeter — Dismasted  — Repair  the  Damages  — Arrive  at  Teneriffe  — Bad  Road- 
stead of  Orotava—  Quarantine  — Mr.  Little  — His  Hospitality  and  Benevolence  — 
Sail  from  Orotava — Cape  Verde  Islands  — Land  at  Tristan  d’Acunha  — Procure 
Fish  and  Potatoes  — Jonathan  Lambert  — Arrive  at,  and  sail  from,  the  Cape  of 
flood  Hope  — Island  of  Amsterdam  — Arrive  at  Batavia  — Governors  — Mr.  Watt 
— Lade  the  Ship  and  put  to  Sea  — Lose  two  Men  — Arrive  at  the  Isle  of  France  — 
Exchange  Produce  — Sail  for  Home — St.  Helena  — Warned  off — Finish  the  Voy- 
age by  arriving  at  Boston. 


m 12  disastrous  result  of  my  long-continued  efforts 
in  Europe  had  deprived  nae  • of  that  independence, 
which  I had  so  early  desired,  and,  for  a course  of 
years,  had  so  successfully  realized.  I was  now 
under  the  necessity  of  accepting  employment  from 
any  of  nay  more  fortunate  fellow-citizens,  who 
might  desire  nsy  services. 

Soon  after  the  negotiation  at  Ghent,  and  the  promulga- 
tion of  peace,  I was  invited  by  some  of  my  Salem 
'friends,  to  make  a voyage  to  Teneriffe  and  Batavia  ; an 
enterprise,  which,  within  my  recollection,  was  viewed  as 
’■one  of  untried  and  doubtful  accomplishment,  requiring  in 
the  commander  uncommon  skill,  perseverance,  and  tact ; but 
which,  at  this  time,  1815,  is  of  sueh  every-day  occurrence, 

1 that  I am  only  induced  to  narrate  mine  from  the  consideration 
that  its  omission  would  leave  a chasm  in  the  story,  which  may  be 
viewed  as  unimportant,  or  otherwise,  according  to  the  different  tastes 
of  the  readers. 

Late  in  the  month  of  July,  1815,  I sailed  from  Salem  in  the  ship 
Exeter,  bound  to  Teneriffe  and  Batavia.  The  ship,  which  was  about 
24 


278 


SIXTH  VOYAGE. 


three  hundred  tons,  was  of  a clumsy  construction,  and,  being  sheath- 
ed with  wood,  gave  us  a prospect  of  long  and  tedious  passages  ; but 
the  liberality  of  the  owners  more  than  compensated  for  the  additional 
time  requisite  for  the  performance  of  the  voyage. 

To  meet  with  an  accident  in  a well-rigged  ship,  while  crossing  the 
Atlantic  in  summer  time,  seemed  hardly  within  the  bounds  of  possi- 
bility ; yet  we  did  not  escape,  The  first  ten  days  after  our  departure 
we  had  experienced  only  the  light  and  baffling  winds,  which  are 
peculiar  at  this  season  of  the  year,  and,  consequently,  had  made  lit- 
tle progress  on  our  way  ; but,  on  the  eleventh  day,  we  had  a fine 
breeze  from  south-south-west,  which  gave  us  the  cheering  encourage- 
ment of  making  up  for  lost  time.  With  top  gallant-sails  set  over 
whole  topsails,  a foretopmast  studdingsail,  the  sea  tolerably  smooth, 
and  going  at  the  rate  of  only  eight  knots  an  hour,  in  an  instant,  all 
three  topmasts  snapped  off  close  to  the  caps,  and  came  down  with  a 
tremendous  crash ; the  topsail-yards  making  sad  havoc  with  the 
courses.  The  ship  being  now  deprived  of  her  propelling  force,  lay 
like  a log  on  the  water  ; and  the  sea  being  smooth,  enabled  us  to 
save  all  the  rigging,  sails,  and  spars.  It  was  a most  fortunate  circum- 
stance, that  no  man  was  aloft  at  the  time,  and  that  none  were  hurt  by 
the  fall  of  the  spars  and  rigging  ; for,  even  with  the  united  energies 
of  all,  to  bring  order  out  of  such  a chaos  was  a laborious  task.  The 
men,  however,  went  about  the  work  cheerfully  ; and,  under  the  direc- 
tion of  an  excellent  chief  officer,  with  great  diligence  and  exertion, 
we  had  our  three  topsails  and  courses  repaired  and  set  in  three  days 
after  the  misfortune.  It  may  be  inquired,  to  what  I attribute  so 
unusual  an  accident ; for  unusual  it  really  was  at  such  a time.  I can 
think  of  no  other  cause  than  that  of  the  spars’  being  weakened  by 
exposure  to  alternate  wet  and  dry  weather,  while  the  ship  was  hauled 
up  during  the  whole  of  the  last  war  with  England.  We  were  able  to 
substitute  good  fore  and  mizzen  topmasts  for  those  lost ; but  the  main 
one  did  not  admit  of  carrying  hard  sail.  Notwithstanding  this 
disaster,  we  were  up  with  the  western  islands,  passing  between  Ter- 
eeiro  and  St.  Michael’s  on  the  11th  of  August,  saw  Madeira  on  the 
21st,  and  arrived  at  Orolava  on  the  26th.  The  day  before  arriving,  and 
while  nearly  becalmed,  in  sight  of  the  Pic  of  Teneriffe,  seeing  some- 
thing on  the  water,  a short  distance  from  us,  which  appeared  like  a 


MR.  LITTLE. 


271) 


cask,  we  lowered  the  boat,  and  towed  it  alongside.  On  taking  it  on 
board,  it  proved  to  be  a hogshead  of  fine  old  Jamaica  spirit.  It 
must  have  been  a long  time  in  the  water,  as  it  was  covered  with  bar- 
nacles. 

Of  all  the  uncomfortable  roadsteads  in  which  it  has  been  my 
chance  to  load  a ship,  that  of  Orotava  is  the  worst.  Anchored  in 
fifty-five  fathoms  of  water,  with  the  ship  rolling  more  than  when  at 
sea,  we  are  doomed  to  eight  days’  quarantine.  In  the  mean  time,  the 
wine  is  prepared  to  take  on  board  as  soon  as  the  quarantine  expires. 
At  any  time  and  place,  such  delays  are  excessively  provoking  and 
tedious  ; but,  in  such  a roadstead  as  this,  the  fatigue  and  ennui  amount 
nearly  to  a state  of  torture.  The  eight  days,  however,  were  passed 
without  accident ; and  immediately  on  their  completion,  I received  a 
polite  invitation  from  Mr.  Little  (the  merchant  from  whom  I received 
my  cargo,)  to  dine  with  him,  and  to  take  up  my  quarters  at  his  house, 
for  the  little  time  that  remained  while  lading  the  wine,  which  I very 
readily  accepted. 

This  gentleman  and  accomplished  merchant  is  successor  to  the 
house  of  Pasley,  long  famed  for  its  honorable  mode  of  conducting 
business ; a fame  which  is  in  no  degree  less  merited  by  the  present 
house.  The  hospitality  of  Mr.  Little  is  acknowledged  by  all  who  visit 
the  place  ; and  he  has  given  such  evidence  of  his  philanthropy  and 
benevolence,  as  to  be  honorably  noticed  by  the  king.  During  the 
prevalence  of  the  yellow  fever  in  the  island,  when  all  were  flying 
who  possessed  the  means,  he  remained  ; and,  by  the  judicious  appli- 
cation of  pecuniary  aid,  by  the  encouragement  of  his  presence,  and 
by  his  personal  assistance,  he  probably  saved  the  lives  of  hundreds, 
though  at  the  most  imminent  risk,  as  he  barely  escaped  being  a mar- 
tyr to  his  humanity. 

On  the  3d  of  September,  having  completed  our  lading,  and  taken 
leave  of  my  kind  host,  I went  on  board,  and  prepared  to  go  to  sea  ; 
but  we  soon  perceived,  that,  with  an  ordinary  windlass,  the  united 
force  of  our  crew  was  insufficient  to  heave  up  the  anchor,  with  such 
a weight  of  cable  in  addition  ; .and  we  were  compelled  to  avail  oui- 
selves  of  the  services  of  the  men  who  came  off  with  me.  Even 
with  this  aid,  we  were  a long  time  getting  our  anchor  ; but  the  task 
was  at  length  accomplished.  The  boat,  with  the  foreigners,  left  us. 


280 


SIXTH  VOYAGE. 


We  made  sail  ; and  every  one  on  board  was  rejoiced  to  leave  a place 
which  was  so  exceedingly  uncomfortable. 

On  our  way  to  the  south,  we  passed  between  the  Cape  de  Verde 
Islands,  and  not  far  to  windward  of  Fogo  ; crossed  the  equator  in  the 
usual  longitude,  and,  making  our  way  with  all  diligence  to  the  south- 
ward, the  next  land  we  saw  was  Tristan  d’Acunha.  As  we  could 
touch  at  this  island  without  much  loss  of  time,  I determined  to  do  so. 
Accordingly,  approaching  the  north-west  end  we  saw  a smoke,  and, 
when  within  about  a mile  of  it,  I sent  the  boat  ashore  with  directions 
to  ascertain  who  were  the  inhabitants,  to  procure  from  them  whatever 
eatables  they  might  have  to  spare,  and  to  be  absent  no  longer  than 
was  necessary  for  the  accomplishment  of  these  purposes, — the  ship, 
in  the  mean  time,  lying  off  and  on  under  easy  sail.  After  an 
absence  of  about  four  hours,  the  boat  returned  with  a good  supply  of 
excellent  potatoes  and  a plenty  of  very  fine  fish.  The  officer  report- 
ed, that  there  were  only  three  men  on  the  island,  who  appeared  to  be 
Portuguese  or  Italians,  and  on  inquiring  of  them  what  had  become  of 
Lambert,  they  said  he  had  been  drowned,  with  others,  in  attempting 
to  go  to  Inaccessible  Island. 

Jonathan  Lambert  was  a native  of  Salem  and  a school-mate  of  mine. 
He  was  a man  of  good  capacity  and  much  eccentricity.  Having  been 
unsuccessful  in  his  endeavors  by  navigation  to  acquire  a competency, 
and  being  disgusted  with  commerce  and  with  the  world,  he  formed 
the  project  of  establishing  himself  on  this  island,  which,  from  its 
healthy  climate,  virgin  soil,  and  being  in  the  track  of  vessels 
bound  to  India,  might  be  made  an  object  of  attraction  to  such  as  were 
in  want  of  supplies.  Accordingly,  with  several  others  of  no  less 
desperate  fortune  than  himself,  but  very  inferior  in  point  of  educa- 
tion and  capacity,  he  landed  on  the  island  ; and  when  they  had  pro- 
duced enough  for  the  supply  of  ships,  be  caused  a notice  thereof  to 
be  published  in  the  Boston  papers,  inviting  ships  to  stop  and  obtain 
such  refreshments  as  he  could  supply.  Not  long  after  this,  it  was 
reported,  that  he  had  perished  in  attempting  to  go  to  Inaccessible 
Island  ; but,  as  he  was  of  an  irritable,  tyrannical  temper,  his  friends 
have  supposed  it  to  be  more  probable  that  his  comrades,  unable  to 
bear  with  it,  lrad  put  him  out  of  existence.  . 


ARRIVE  AT  BATAVIA. 


281 


As  our  main-topmast  could  not  he  depended  on,  and  we  were  often 
compelled  to  lessen  the  sail  on  it,  to  the  prejudice  of  our  passage,  I 
concluded  it  would  be  a saving  of  time  to  stop  at  the  Cape  of  Good 
Hope  and  procure  a new  one.  This  we  did,  and  sailed  again  for  the 
eastward,  after  a detention  of  four  days.  The  only  deviation  we 
experienced  from  the  accustomed  monotony  of  such  a passage,  was 
that  of  lying  by  near  the  Island  of  Amsterdam,  and,  in  the  course  of 
an  hour,  nearly  loading  our  boat  with  excellent  fish.  They  were 
about  the  size  of  the  cod,  and  had  some  resemblance  to  that  fish. 
At  length,  on  the  31st  of  January,  1816,  we  came  to  anchor  in  Bata- 
via Roads,  nearly  six  months  from  the  lime  of  our  departure  from 
Salem. 

The  havoc,  which  in  former  voyages  I had  seen  made  in  ship’s 
companies  by  the  fever,  which  is  more  or  less  prevalent  at  this  place 
at  all  seasons  of  the  year,  induced  me  to  take  uncommon  precautions 
to  preserve  the  health  of  my  men.  With  this  view,  I hired  natives 
to  go  in  the  boats,  to  hoist  in  the  cargo,  and  to  perform  all  such 
duties  as  would  cause  an  exposure  to  the  sun.  My  men  were  seldom 
allowed  to  go  on  shore,  and  when  occasionally  such  permission  was 
granted,  they  refrained  from  the  usual  practice  of  seamen,  of  drinking 
to  excess,  although  no  alcohol  was  provided  for  them  on  board  ship. 
The  consequence  was,  that,  though  we  were  nearly  two  months  in 
port,  we  had  no  man  sick  during  that  time. 

While  at  Batavia,  both  the  English  and  Dutch  Governors  were 
present  ; the  former,  Sir  Stamford  Raffles,  then  surrendering  the 
command  of  the  Island  to  the  person  appointed  by  the  government 
of  the  Netherlands  to  receive  it.  The  revulsions  in  the  price  of  pro- 
duce, caused  by  the  sudden  changes  in  the  political  state  of  the  country, 
had  been  taken  advantage  of  by  some  of  the  foreign  residents, by  which 
they  acquired  great  fortunes.  Among  the  number,  I was  much  grat- 
ified to  find  my  friend  Mr.  Watt,  a worthy  young  Scotchman,  who 
was  Captain’s  clerk  in  the  ship  Cronberg,  in  which  I was  a passenger 
and  freighter  from  the  Isle  of  France  to  Denmark,  in  the  year  1801. 
At  that  period,  as  respects  property,  he  was  a poor  man,  but  rich  in 
intellect  and  commercial  sagacity,  of  which  he  gave  evidence  in 
availing  himself  of  the  opportunities  as  they  presented  themselves  of 
acquiring  a fortune,  greater  than  is  often  gained  in  a long  and  indus- 
24* 


282 


SIXTH  VOYAGE. 


trious  life  ; but  the  enjoyment  of  it  was  not  permitted  him.  Before 
embarking  for  Europe  lie  had  imbibed  the  seeds  of  disease,  and,  sick- 
ening on  the  passage,  died  at  the  Cape  of  Good  Hope. 

Having  accomplished  my  business  at  Batavia,  by  lading  the  ship 
with  coffee  and  sugar,  and  not  meeting  a sale  for  the  wine  I had 
brought  from  Teneriffe,  I determined  to  stop  at  the  Isle  of  France  in 
the  hope  of  being  able  to  dispose  of  it  there.  Accordingly,  about 
the  middle  of  March,  I left  Batavia  Roads,  exulting  in  the  circum- 
stance of  having  had  no  one  sick  during  my  stay  there,  and  of  leav- 
ing the  place  with  the  crew  in  as  good  health  as  on  the  day  of  their 
arrival.  But  my  exultation  was  but  of  short  duration,  for  no  sooner 
had  we  passed  Java  head  and  were  in  the  open  sea,  where  1 supposed 
the  danger  of  sickness  no  longer  existed,  than  three  of  my  men 
were  seized  violently  and  almost  simultaneously  with  fever.  Only 
one  of  the  three  recovered  ; the  other  two  lived  but  a few  days 
after  being  attacked.  These  were  the  first  and  only  men  I ever  lost 
by  sickness,  and  their  death  and  burial  spread  a sadness  over  their 
surviving  shipmates,  of  which  some  traces  remained  even  to  the  end 
of  the  passage. 

The  trade  wind,  which  we  took  immediately  after  passing  Java 
Head,  continued  so  steady  and  strong  as  to  carry  us  to  the  Isle  of. 
France  in  thirty-two  days,  which  was  a fine  passage  for  out  ship. 
From  the  two  long  visits,  which  I had  made  to  this  place  in  1794  and 
in  1800,  I was  as  familiar  with  its  localities  as  if  it  had  been  my 
home.  These,  on  my  present  visit,  were  unchanged,  but  these  were 
all  that  remained  unchanged.  Since  I last  left  the  place,  it  had 
become  a colony  of  the  English  by  conquest.  English  government 
and  laws  had  superseded  those  of  France  ; and  English  manners, 
customs,  and  modes  of  doing  business,  were  gradually  making 
encroachments  on  those  of  the  French  inhabitants,  which  is  not 
unusual  with  a subjugated  people  when  their  conquerors  are  generous 
and  conciliating. 

It  was  soon  apparent,  that  an  immediate  sale  of  my  wine  could 
not  be  made,  nor  was  the  object  sufficiently  important  to  detain 
the  .ship.  I therefore  placed  it  in  the  hands  of  a merchant,  and 
received  from  him  an  amount  of  the  produce  of  the  island,  equal  to 
what  he  estimated  the  wine  would  sell  for  ; and  this  occupied  about 


ARRIVE  AT  BOSTON. 


283 


the  space  in  the  ship,  which  the  wine  had  done.  These  interchanges 
being  accomplished,  we  left  the  Isle  of  France,  towards  the  last  o^ 
April,  for  home. 

The  passage  round  the  Cape  and  thence  to  Boston  was  a continued 
series  of  fair  winds  and  pleasant  weather  ; and  the  only  incident, 
which  occurred  to  break  in  upon  the  monotony  of  such  a passage, 
was  that  of  being  boarded,  when  in  sight  of  St.  Helena,  by  an  Eng- 
lish brig  of  war,  which  was  cruising  near  the  north  side  of  the  island 
for  tne  purpose  of  preventing  the  entry  of  vessels  there  during  the 
Qatcntion  of  the  Emperor  Napoleon,  The  boarding  officer  was  very 
polite  ; said  their  orders  were  positive  to  allow  no  vessel  to  go  in  ; 
that  provision  was  made  at  the  Island  of  Ascension  to  supply  ships 
with  water,  and  that  if  we  had  not  enough  to  carry  us  there,  he  would 
furnish  us  with  sufficient  for  that  purpose  ; hut  we  were  not  in  want 
of  any  thing.  Our  detention,  therefore,  was  but  of  short  duration, 
and  taking  our  departure  from  St.  Helena,  we  had  a pleasant  passage 
to  Boston,  where  we  arrived  in  August,  1816 ; thus  accomplishing 
the  voyage  in  safety,  and  to  the  satisfaction  of  all  interested  therein. 


CHAPTER  XXIV. 


Preliminary  Remarks  — Departure  from  New  York — Passing  Esneetiorai  - Passage 
to  Cape  de  Verde  Islands — Tornado  — St.  Paul’s  on  the  Equator-  Pemwv.bn'"  — 
Rio  de  la  Plata — Cape  Horn  — Embayed  — Passage  of  the  Cape  — Land  oe  tha 
Island  of  Jlocha  — Arrival  at  Talcahuana — Visit  of  the  Authorities  — Sketch  of 
them  — A Guard  sent  on  Board  — Our  men  taken  away  — Prohibition  of  Communi- 
cation with  our  Countrymen  of  the  Canton. 


i7i?2E  general  peace  of  the  civilized  world,  at  this 
time,  by  producing  great  commercial  competition, 
made  it  difficult  for  the  most  experienced  merchant 
to  project  a voyage,  in  which  the  chance  of  loss 
would  not  be  equal  to  that  of  gain.  From  this  con- 
sideration, after  returning  from  Batavia,  I declined 
engaging  in  any  other  voyage  till  the  early  part  of 
the  year  1817,  when,  being  at  New  York  at  the  time 
intelligence  reached  there  of  a revolution  in  the  kingdom 
f Chili,  by  which  the  people  had  emancipated  themselves 
ram  the  royal  government,  it  occurred  to  me  that  I 
profit  by  it. 

i event,  by  freeing  the  commerce  of  that  country  from 
ere  and  paralyzing  restrictions  to  which  it  had  hitherto 
jbjected,  by  throwing  open  those  ports  to  the  commerce 
of  all  nations,  which  for  ages  had  been  sealed  to  foreigners,  seemed 
to  present  very  flattering  prospects  to  those  merchants,  who  should  be 
first  in  availing  themselves  of  it. 


The  knowledge  I had  acquired  in  my  voyage  in  the  Lelia  Byrd, 
of  the  wants  and  commercial  resources  of  the  country,  gave  me 
advantages,  which  few  of  my  enterprising  countrymen  then  possessed. 
It  was  very  desirable  to  turn  this  knowledge  to  the  best  account,  by 
planning  and  executing  a voyage  thither.  With  this  view,  I submitted 
a plan  to  that  enterprising,  intelligent,  and  wealthy  merchant,  John 


JOHN  JACOB  ASTOR. 


285 


Jacob  Astor,  Esq.,  who,  though  aware  of  the  risks  attending  it,  was 
not  slow  to  perceive,  and  be  convinced  of  the  promised  advantages ; 
and,  with  characteristic  decision,  he  determined  to  engage  in  it. 

As  Mr.  Astor  acceded  to  my  terms  as  master  and  factor,  and  showed 
equal  liberality  and  good  judgment  in  leaving  every  thing  to  my 
discretion,  an  agreement  was  soon  concluded,  and  measures  immedi- 
ately taken  to  prepare  the  ship  and  to  purchase  the  cargo.  His 
favorite  ship  Beaver,  (the  same  mentioned  in  Irving’s  “Astoria,”) 
hud  just  been  repaired,  at  an  expense  nearly  equal  to  that  of  building 
her  anew,  and  was  thus  tendered  proper  for  the  contemplated  voyage. 
Her  equipment  being  under  the  superintendence  of  an  experienced 
and  accomplished  seaman,  Captain  John  Whitten,  who  was  largely 
interested  in  the  adventure,  was  in  every  respect  complete.  The 
cargo,  consisting  principally  of  European  manufactures,  to  the  amount 
of  a hundred  and  forty  thousand  dollars,  and  the  ship,  with  stores, 
valued  at  fifty  thousand,  formed  an  aggregate,  which,  it  is  probable, 
no  other  individual  in  the  United  States  would  have  risked  on  a voyage 
so  full  of  dangers  and  uncertainty. 

On  the  28th  of  June,  1817,  the  lading  being  completed,  men  ship- 
ped, and  every  thing  in  readiness  for  sea,  the  ship  was  anchored  in 
the  stream,  to  secure  the  services  of  the  men,  on  which  little  reliance 
could  be  placed,  while  lying  at  the  wharf.  At  four  o'clock,  on  the 
morning  of  the  1st  of  July,  I was  roused  by  the  pilot  to  go  on  board; 
and,  in  conformity  with  previous  agreement,  called  on  Mr.  Astor,  who, 
at  this  early  hour,  was  up  and  waiting  for  me.  After  a short  inter- 
view, I took  leave,  and  repaired  on  board,  where  I found  all  engaged, 
under  the  direction  of  the  pilot,  in  heaving  up  the  anchor. 

With  a fine  westerly  breeze,  and  a strong  ebb  tide,  we  passec 
rapidly  on  our  way,  and  were  soon  outside  of  Sandy  Hook,  where  tht 
pilot  left  us.  The  day  was  remarkably  fine,  the  sea  smooth,  anc 
before  twelve  o’clock  the  highlands  of  Neversink  were  no  longer 
visible.  Before  the  day  closed,  a trial  with  other  vessels,  bound  to 
the  eastward,  satisfied  me  that  the  ship  sailed  well  and  steered  easily. 
The  watch  being  set  at  eight  o’clock,  as  usual,  and  the  course  to  be 
steered  during  the  night  being  given,  I paced  the  deck  till  midnight, 
pleased  with  the  quiet  which  had  so  suddenly  succeeded  the  bustle  of 
getting  away,  and  gave  to  the  mind  ample  scope  to  dwell  on  scenes 


286 


SEVENTH  VOYAGE. 


past,  present,  and  to  come.  There  are  few  who  have  not  experienced 
the  pain  of  bidding  farewell  to  beloved  relatives, even  though  the  time 
of  separation  is  limited  to  a few  weeks;  and  thence  may  be  able  to 
form  some  idea  of  their  feeling  of  desolateness,  of  home-sickness, 
whose  destiny  compels  them  to  seaarate  for  years,  perhaps  for  ever. 
Nor  could  the  flattering  confidence  manifested  by  my  employers,  in 
the  superb  ship  under  my  command,  the  valuable  cargo  consigned  to 
me,  the  entire  and  unrestricted  control  of  both,  and  the  reasonable 
prospect  of  a happy  result,  tend  to  diminish  the  sadness  which  a 
recurrence  to  home  invariably  produced.  Time,  however,  and  the 
imperious  duties  of  my  station,  gradually  lessened  the  poignancy  of 
these  feelings ; and  hope,  ever  buoyant  hope,  cheered  the  drooping 
spirits  by  pointing  to  a period,  though  distant,  of  a happy  consumma- 
tion of  my  wishes. 

Our  passage,  as  far  as  the  parallel  of  the  Cape  de  Verde  Islands, 
afforded  no  incident  worthy  of  note.  It  was  none  other  than  the 
calm,  unruffled  smoothness  of  a summer’s  sea,  which  for  those  who 
are  impatient  to  make  a passage  quickly  is  much  more  irksome  than 
the  boisterous  weather  peculiar  to  high  latitudes. 

While  passing  those  Islands  we  experienced  one  of  the  tremendous 
tornadoes,  so  common  at  this  season,  from  the  African  shore  ; and 
from  the  effects  of  which  mischief  may  be  averted,  by  the  warning 
they  invariably  give.  By  clewing  up  all  sail  in  season,  and  scudding 
before  it,  we  escaped  injury.  Such  squalls  are  seldom  of  more  than 
half  an  hour’s  duration,  when  a calm  invariably  succeeds,  generally 
for  a longer  period  ; during  which  the  heat  is  oppressive,  the  atmos- 
phere lifeless,  and  the  unmanageable  ship  is  tumbling  about  in  the  sea 
caused  by  the  tornado. 

Approaching  the  equator,  we  took  the  wind  so  early  from  the  south- 
ward, that  I was  not  without  anxiety  lest  we  might  fall  to  leeward  of 
Cape  St.  Roque  ; nor  were  these  apprehensions  unfounded,  as  on  the 
17th  of  August  we  saw  the  rocky  Island  of  St.  Paul’s,  which  is  nearh 
on  the  equator,  bearing  far  to  the  eastward  of  us;  and  on  the  19'.;i 
were  but  just  able  to  weather  the  rugged  Island  of  Fernando  Noronha. 
Having  passed  this  Island,  and  continued  our  course  on  a wind  to  the 
southwest,  we  had  the  Brazilian  coast  in  sight  on  the  21st,  and  plying 
tc  windward,  were,  on  the  morning  of  the  23d,  close  in  with  the  town 


CAPE  HORN. 


287 


of  Pernambuco,  which  makes  a very  pretty  appearance  from  the  sea. 
As  there  was  no  blockading  squadron  here,  we  presumed  that  <he 
rebellion  had  been  quelled;  and  this  suspicion  was  soon  confirmed  by 
information  from  a vessel  which  we  spoke  immediately  from  thence, 
that  the  Royalists  had,  some  days  since,  gained  the  ascendency  and 
had  caused  the  principal  conspirators  to  be  put  to  death. 

Having  next  day  passed  the  latitude  of  Cape  St.  Augustine,  we 
observed  that,  as  we  advanced  to  the  southward,  the  wind  became 
more  easterly,  and  finally  enabled  us  to  spread  all  our  light  sails  to  a 
favorable  breeze.  As  we  approached  the  latitude  of  the  Rio  de  la 
Plata,  we  spoke  an  English  brig,  bound  thither  from  Rio  Janeiro,  on 
board  of  which  we  put  letters  for  home.  As  there  existed  some 
chance  of  obtaining  information  that  might  be  useful,  of  the  relative 
situation  of  parties  in  Chili,  by  touching  at  Maldonado,  I determined 
on  so  doing,  if  not  attended  with  too  great  loss  of  time  ; but  when, 
on  the  8th  of  September,  we  were  in  sight  of  St.  Mary’s,  in  thirteen 
fathoms  water,  the  weather  was  so  thick  and  rainy,  that  after  lying-to 
several  hours,  with  no  indication  of  its  clearing  away,  I concluded  to 
abandon  the  attempt,  and  with  a favorable  wind  made  all  sail  to  tho 
southward. 

To  avoid  being  entirely  dependent  on  the  authorities  of  the  Chilian 
ports,  that  we  might  enter,  for  the  replenishment  of  our  water  and  wood, 
I was  desirous  of  stopping  at  the  Falkland  Islands;  and  for  this  pur- 
pose, steered  a course  that  would  carry  me  to  the  westward  of  them, 
as  long  as  the  wind  permitted.  This,  however,  was  not  long,  for  be- 
fore we  arrived  near  their  parallel,  repeated  and  violent  gales  from  the 
southwest  carried  us  far  to  the  eastward  of  them.  Satisfied  that  the 
time  required  to  reach  them  would  be  unprofitably  spent,  and  our 
necessities  not  being  urgent,  1 gave  up  this  plan,  and  proceeded 
toward  Cape  Horn. 

After  experiencing  the  variety  of  winds  and  weather  which  are 
peculiar  to  a high  latitude,  we  were  favored  on  the  25th  of  Septem- 
ber with  a fine  breeze  from  the  eastward,  before  which  we  made  rapid 
advances  toward  the  Cape.  The  breeze  continuing  the  following 
day,  had  carried  us  on  so  far  as  to  leave  no  doubt  of  being  up  with 
the  Capt:  before  morning.  Having  by  a good  observation,  at  noon, 
ascertained  that  our  latitude  was  about  ten  miles  south  of  the  Cape, 


288 


SEVENTH  VOYAGE. 


a course  was  steered  to  preserve  that  parallel ; and,  with  the  advan 
tage  o"  a moonlight  night,  we  pressed  forward,  keeping  a sharp  look- 
out for  the  land.  This  was  descried  at  2 A.  M.  in  a direction  which 
led  me  to  suppose  it  to  be  the  Cape  ; but  continuing  our  course  to  the 
westward,  two  hours,  another  point  of  land  was  discovered,  which 
satisfied  me  of  my  mistake.  I therefore  immediately  shortened  sail 
so  as  to  admit  the  ship’s  being  hauled  on  a wind,  if  it  should  become 
necessary.  Soon  after  seeing  the  second  point,  land  was  descried  to 
the  southward,  making  it  evident  that  we  bad  been  swept  to  the  north- 
ward, by  a current,  and  were  actually  embayed.  Immediately  on  this 
discovery,  the  ship  was  laid  to,  while  we  anxiously  waited  for  day- 
light, which  was  near  at  hand. 

When  the  light  enabled  us  to  distinguish  objects  clearly,  we  found 
that  if  our  position  was  not  actually  hazardous,  our  safety  was  due 
rather  to  accident  than  prudence.  Barnevelt’s  Island  was  to  the 
southward  of  us,  three  or  four  miles,  but  we  could  not  weather  it. 
Steering  through  a passage  which  opened  to  us  between  the  Island  and 
Cape  Deceit,  with  a fine  breeze  from  north-northeast,  we  passed  with- 
in three  miles  of  Cape  Horn,  at  nine  o’clock  in  the  morning,  and  at 
noon  were  six  or  eight  leagues  to  the  westward  of  it.  Thus,  with  a 
smooth  sea,  a breeze  to  which  all  our  light  sails  were  spread,  and 
with  ease  and  celerity,  we  passed  this  formidable  and  terrific  Cape  ; 
the  natural  barrier  and  pledge,  for  ages  past,  for  the  security  of  the 
Spanish  possessions  on  the  Chilian  and  Peruvian  coasts. 

The  next  day  we  spoke  the  ship  Packet  of  Boston,  Captain  Hill, 
bound  to  the  coast  of  Chili ; and  the  following  night  we  had  a gale 
of  wind  from  the  northwest  which  brought  us  under  reefed  courses. 
The  prevalence  of  northwest  gales  prevented  our  reaching  the  Island 
of  Mocha  till  the  15th  of  October.  In  the  hope  of  obtaining  some 
jseful  information  of  the  political  situation  of  Chili,  we  lay  off  and  on 
several  hours,  while  the  boat  was  despatched  for  that  purpose ; but 
it  returned  after  reconnoitring  the  southern  and  eastern  parts  of  the 
island,  without  discovering  any  traces  of  inhabitants,  or  any  other 
animal  than  the  wild  horse. 

A supply  of  water  and  wood  being  now  necessary,  I determined  to 
enter  the  port  of  Talcalmana,  presuming  that,  whether  in  possession 
of  Royalists  or  Patriots,  our  wants  were  manifest ; and  that  our  right 


TALCAHUANA. 


289 


to  enter  their  ports  for  a supply,  was  guaranteed  by  treaty.  Under 
these  impressions,  and  a belief  that  I had  nothing  to  apprehend  from 
either  party,  while  I conformed  to  the  laws  and  regulations  of  the 
ruling  powers,  1 directed  a course  for  that  port;  and  the  next  morn- 
ing we  were  abreast  the  Island  of  St.  Mary’s.  Having  but  a light 
breeze,  it  was  late  in  the  afternoon  before  we  had  a view  of  the  port, 
into  which  an  American  ship  was  entering,  and  which  proved  to  be 
the  Essex,  of  Nantucket,  Captain  Russell. 

A light  air  from  the  southward  enabled  us  to  pass  the  Island  of 
Quinquina,  which  forms  the  southern  entrance  to  the  port  ; and  soon 
after,  it  became  perfectly  calm.  While  thus  becalmed,  we  were 
boarded  by  an  officer,  who  had  just  before  boarded  the  Essex,  and 
who  stated  that  the  port  was  in  possession  of  the  Patriots  ; that  he 
was  a Patriot  officer ; that  the  Royal  flag  was  kept  flying  on  the  ships 
then  in  full  view,  as  a decoy ; that  the  brig  Canton  was  in  port,  and 
would  be  ready  to  sail  for  Salem  in  two  or  three  days,  &c.  &c.,  all 
which  was  false,  excepting  that  the  brig  Canton  was  in  port. 

As  the  calm  continued,  we  were  obliged  to  let  go  an  anchor,  and 
soon  after  were  boarded  by  an  officer  of  apparently  superior  grade  to 
the  first.  He  wore  an  undress  Royal  uniform,  and  demanded  the 
ship’s  papers.  Having  examined  these,  and  remarked  a deficiency 
of  the  sea  letter,  he  was  about  taking  them  away,  to  which  I would 
not  consent,  and  after  some  altercation  on  the  subject,  he  left  the  ship. 
My  suspicions  were  now  awakened  as  to  the  facts  stated  by  the  first 
officer  who  boarded  us  ; although  corroborated  by  the  second,  if  un- 
true, their  object  must  fairly  be  presumed  to  be  mischievous. 

Thus  situated,  and  with  such  apprehensions,  it  was  evident  that  no 
time  was  to  be  lost  in  deciding  whether  it  was  most  judicious  to  attempt 
a retreat  and  seek  some  other  port,  or  to  enter  this,  trusting  to  our 
right  by  treaty.  In  adopting  the  first  measure,  it  was  to  be  considered 
that  though  we  might  succeed  in  beating  off  the  launches,  the  only 
mode  of  annoyance  they  could  use  while  the  calm  continued,  yet 
this  must  be  with  the  loss  of  lives,  and  with  a chance  of  failure.  If, 
however,  we  should  succeed  in  keeping  them  at  bay  until  a breeze 
should  spring  up,  which  would  enable  us  to  go  out,  the  same  would 
aid  the  ships  of  war  to  pursue  us  ; and  we  could  no  more  rationally 
expect  to  outsail  a frigate,  than  we  could  successfully  resist  her.  A 
25  • 


290 


SEVENTH  VOYAGE. 


failure  in  either  of  these  attempts  might  be  urged  as  a justifiable 
cause  of  condemnation.  It  was  no  less  obvious  that,  if  these  ships 
were  a part  of  the  Royal  navy,  the  Royalists  must  possess  the 
ascendency  at  sea  ; in  which  case  it  was  probable  that  the  port  of 
Valparaiso  would  be  blockaded  ; and  to  be  taken  attempting  to  enter 
there,  after  having  forced  my  way  from  here,  and  with  a Royal  officer 
on  board  to  detail  the  circumstances,  could  not  fail  to  be  attended 
with  disastrous  consequences. 

On  the  other  hand,  however  vexatious  and  annoying  the  conduct 
of  the  government  towards  us  might  be,  from  the  resentment  they 
would  feel,  on  suspicion  of  our  intention  to  traffic  with  those  they 
termed  rebels,  such  suspicion  ought  not  to  endanger  the  property 
under  any  circumstances  ; and  more  especially  when  there  existed 
the  most  undeniable  evidence  of  such  necessity  as  had  been  pro- 
vided for  by  treaty.  With  these  impressions,  and  in  the  worst  event, 
that  of  the  Royalists  being  in  possession  of  the  place,  the  least  of 
the  two  evils  seemed  to  be  that  of  placing  myself  in  their  power,  and 
manifesting  no  apprehension  for  the  result ; in  accordance  with  this 
conviction,  I made  no  resistance  to  the  admittance  of  the  armed  men 
on  board,  who  were  sent  to  take  charge  of  us.  These,  however, 
were  alleged  by  the  officer  to  be  put  on  board  for  our  safety,  to  guard 
us  against  the  enemy  who  possessed  the  neighboring  shore,  from 
which  we  were  distant  about  one  mile. 

Having  a breeze  early  the  next  morning,  we  weighed  anchor,  and 
after  making  two  or  three  tacks,  under  the  direction  of  the  pilot, 
anchored  again  in  front  of  the  town,  between  the  Velozand  Sebastina, 
men-of-war.  Here  a guard  from  the  shore  relieved  those  who  first 
came  on  board  ; and  here  we  were  all  confined  to  the  ship,  and  pro- 
hibited any  communication  with  the  shore,  or  with  our  countrymen 
of  the  hrig  Canton,  which  lay  near  us. 


CHAPTER  XXV. 


Sails  Unbent  — Interchange  of  Letters  with  tl  e Governor  — Unfortunate  Selection  ol 
a Port  — Situation  of  the  Royal  and  Patriot  Forces — Visit  from  the  Authorities  — 
Sketch  of  them  — Their  Object  and  Determination  — Hopeless  Case  — Some  Re- 
sources. 


N the  afternoon  our  sails  were  unbent,  an  unsuc- 
cessful attempt  was  made  to  unhang  the  rudder, 
and  all  (excepting  two)  of  the  seamen  taken  away 
and  put  on  board  other  ships.  During  the  after- 
noon and  the  following  day,  several  letters  were 
terchanged  between  the  military  Governor  and 
myself,  all  of  which  showed  that  it  was  his  intention 
to  appropriate  the  ship  and  cargo  to  the  use  of  the  gov 
eminent. 

It  was  now  evident,  that  we  could  not  have  selected 
a port  on  the  coast  where  so  much  suspicion  of  sinister 
intentions  would  be  excited  ; where  the  rules  would  be  more 
hostile  to  us ; or  where,  from  the  entire  exhaustion  of  the 
military  chest,  there  could  exist  so  good  an  apology  for  act- 
ing on  the  principle,  that  “ necessity  knows  no  law.”  Hence 
it  was  apparent,  that  if  ever  the  propertj'  should  be  released,  it  prob- 
ably would  not  be  till  after  such  a protracted  period  of  litigation  in  a 
Spanish  tribunal,  as  would  wear  out  my  patience,  if  not  my  life. 

We  now  ascertained  that  the  city  of  Conception  and  all  the  eastern 
side  of  the  bay  were  in  possession  of  the  Patriots,  who,  with  a strong 
force,  were  besieging  Talcahuana,  and  daily  throwing  shells  into  the 
town  ; while  the  Royal  forces,  confined  within  their  lines  to  the  penin- 
sula, were  kept  on  the  qui  vive,  by  the  frequent  demonstrations  of 
an  attack. 

On  the  following  day,  we  were  visited  by  all  the  important  function 


292 


SEVENTH  VOYAGE. 


aries  of  the  government,  including  the  military  Governor,  a sketch 
of  whom,  which  a compulsory  acquaintance  afterwards  enabled  mo 
to  take,  may  be  properly  introduced  at  this  time.  The  supreme 
chief,  or  Governor  Intendante  of  the  Province  of  Conception,  was 
Jose  Ordones,  a European,  but  whether  a descendant  of  the  one  of 
that  name,  of  whom  honorable  mention  is  made  in  the  history  of  the 
renowned  Knight  of  La  Mancha,  1 could  not  learn.  He  held  the 
rank  of  Colonel  in  the  Royal  army,  had  seen  much  service  in  the 
late  war,  and,  from  having  been  a prisoner  in  France,  had  derived  the 
double  advantage  of  attaining  some  knowledge  of  the  French  lan- 
guage, and  of  acquiring  the  happy  mode  of  appropriating  the  prop- 
erty of  others  to  their  own  particular  use,  which  so  distinguished  that 
nation  at  the  time  of  his  captivity.  His  manners  were  those  of  a 
gentleman  ; and  his  character  a counterpart  to  that  which  Tacitus 
has  drawn  of  Tiberius.  His  stature  was  rather  below  middling.  His 
physiognomy  dark  and  forbidding.  His  eyelids  hung  half'  over  the 
balls  of  his  eyes,  after  the  manner  in  which  a toper  is  usually  drawn, 
and  were  so  remarkable,  that,  had  he  lived  in  those  times  of  yore, 
when  the  peculiar  properties  of  a man  gave  him  a name,  as  “ long 
shanks,”  t;  bald  head,”  &e.  he  would  perhaps  have  obtained  the  soubri- 
quet of  “ lopped-eyed.” 

The  character  next  in  importance,  among  my  guests,  was  the  Fiscal 
of  the  Royal  Hacienda,  or  chief  of  the  civil  department,  Don  Santi- 
ago Ascacibar  Murube,  a native  of  Old  Spain,  and  a hater  of  all 
foreigners.  He  derived  his  station  and  consequence,  not  less  from 
the  scarcity  of  men  possessing  the  requisite  talents  for  the  office, 
than  from  the  efforts  of  influential  friends,  a prepossessing  figure,  and 
a degree  of  assurance  bordering  on  impudence,  which  gave  him  a 
currency  with  some  of  the  most  respectable  families  of  Lima.  He 
was  proverbially  unprincipled  in  a community  where  morality  is  but 
little  esteemed.  After  his  return  to  Lima,  and  in  conformity  with  the 
usual  practice  of  such  sinners,  he  voluntarily  banished  himself  from 
society  during  a fortnight,  entered  a convent,  and  submitted  to  the 
penance,  required  by  its  rules,  for  that  period ; then  came  out 
cleansed  from  his  sins,  and  prepared  to  begin  a new  score. 

The  third  grand  prop  of  the  State,  in  this  company,  was  the  As- 
sessor, or  great  law  officer,  the  man  who  interrogated  us,  and  by  the 


DANGER  OF  CONFISCATION. 


293 


successful  issi  e of  this  labor,  showed  to  his  astonished  countrymen, 
that  he  could  delect  guilt  where  none  existed.  Juan  Jose  Eguilua, 
the  submissive  tool  of  the  two  preceding  rogues,  was  a half-starved, 
lank,  pale,  doleful  looking  fellow  ; from  whom,  however,  Caesar 
would  have  had  no  apprehensions  of  the  subversion  of  the  govern- 
ment, as  he  was  entirely  destitute  of  any  one  of  the  qualifications 
requisite,  except  an  entire  want  of  principle.  His  appointment  to  the 
office  of  Assessor  must  have  been  the  effect  of  blind  partiality,  or  of 
that  chance  which  offered  no  selection,  or,  probably,  of  the  presump- 
tion, that,  in  so  obscure  a place  as  Talcahuana,  no  official  duties 
would  be  required  of  him. 

The  last  though  not  the  least  influential  character,  among  my  visitors, 
was  the  Commissary  of  the  army,  Don  Mattias  de  la  Fuente,  the 
Abbe  Sieyes  of  Talcahuana.  Though  a native  of  this  country,  the 
King  had  no  subject  more  devotedly  attached  to  his  government,  no 
one  who  was  a more  bitter  enemy  to  the  Patriot  cause.  With  the 
manners  and  urbanity  of  a gentleman, -he  combined  the  duplicity  and 
cunning  of  a Spanish  courtier.  He  took  no  other  responsibility  in 
the  measures  pursued  against  us,  than  to  represent  to  the  government 
that  there  was  no  money  in  the  Royal  chest,  that  he  was  destitute  of 
the  means  of  paying  the  army,  whose  arrears  were  so  great,  and 
whose  necessities  were  so  urgent,  that  symptoms  of  discontent  among 
them  were  daily  manifest,  and  that  there  was  no  other  resource  of 
alleviation  of  that  evil,  than  to  appropriate  the  cargo  of  the  Beaver. 
With  characteristic  duplicity,  while  he  was  daily  making  professions 
of  friendship,  and  encouraging  a hope  of  the  release  of  the  property, 
he  was  laboring  for  its  confiscation,  and  was  earnestly  engaged  in 
producing  that  ruin  which  he  affected  to  lament.  Such  were  the  men, 
in  whose  power  it  was  now  my  cruel  destiny  to  be  placed.  On  their 
fiat  hung  the  fate  of  the  valuable  ship  Beaver  and  cargo  ; and  with 
them  my  own  fortune  and  future  prospects. 

Although  the  ostensible  object  of  this  visit  was  to  see  if  our  neces- 
sities were  as  urgent  as  reported,  it  was  very  evident,  that,  in  reality, 
it  was  to  seareh  for  some  grounds  to  prove  that  they  were  feigned,  in 
order  to  justify  the  high-handed  measures,  upon  which  they  had,  evi- 
dently, already  determined.  Among  other  proofs  equally  frivolous, 
they  tasted  the  bilgewater  from  the  pumps,  and  declared  it  to  be 
25* 


294 


SEVENTH  VOYAGE. 


sweet.  The  falsehood  was  contrived  to  substantiate  another,  namely, 
that  the  water  in  the  hold  being  palatable,  was  evidence  of  our  supply 
having  been  purposely  started  to  make  a show  of  necessity.  If  there 
had  been  any  doubts,  relative  to  our  fate  before  this  visit,  none  could 
exist  afterwards  ; as  the  Fiscal  had  already  been  so  incautious  as  to 
prejudge  the  cause,  by  declaring  the  ship  and  cargo  to  be  good  prize. 

It  would  be  in  vain  to  attempt  conveying  an  idea  of  my  distress, 
now  that  I realized  the  scene  of  trouble  which  awaited  me.  I saw  at 
once  my  fair  prospects  blasted  ; the  flattering  hopes  of  meeting  my 
family,  with  a competency,  at  no  very  distant  period,  annihilated  ; the 
satisfaction  of  an  approving  welcome  from  my  employer,  without  a 
chance  of  being  realized.  Besides  this,  I was  conscious  that  these 
calamities,  which  were  only  a prelude  to  others,  were  produced  by 
the  mere  accident  of  falling  into  the  hands  of  those  who  possessed 
but  barely  sufficient  power  to  enforce  their  views,  while  their  inhu- 
manity would  not  hesitate  to  take  my  life,  if  necessary  for  the  fur- 
therance of  their  object.  I knew,  too,  that  they  were  ignorant,  even 
of  the  existence  of  any  treaty,  by  which  my  rights  were  secured  ; 
and  entirely  reckless  of  consequences.  All  these  conspired  to  plunge 
me  into  an  abyss  of  misery  ; to  present  a prospect  so  gloomy,  so  op- 
pressive, so  fraught  with  woe,  that  the  situation  of  one  conscious  that 
his  life  was  limited  to  the  next  setting  sun,  appeared  enviable  to  me. 

Such  prostration  of  spirit,  however,  was  of  but  momentary  dura- 
tion. This  was  neither  the  first,  nor  second  time,  that  my  prospects 
in  life  had  been  involved  in  equal  darkness  ; and  had  been  succeeded 
by  days  of  surtShirie ; and  though  I could  not  now  perceive  any 
chance  of  extricating  myself,  I felt  such  confidence  that  a way  would 
be  opened,  that  I soon  recovered  that  elasticity  of  spirits  which  is 
necessary  to  insure  success,  in  any  enterprise. 

Revolving  in  my  mind  the  various  modes  which  might  possibly 
occur  for  the  recovery  of  this  property,  the  first  and  a very  probable 
one,  was  the  arrival  of  the  Ontario,  which  from  the  notice  in  the  pa- 
pers, of  the  time  of  her  sailing  from  the  United  States,  might  be 
daily  expected  ; and  her  presence  would  have  had  an  immediate  ten- 
dency to  cause  its, release.  The  second,  was  the  known  increase  of  the 
Pat  riot  force,  and  the  hope  that  they  might  become  masters  of  the 
place  before  the  condemnation  of  the  ship.  The  third,  was  the  hope 


HOPES  OF  RELEASE. 


295 


and  expectation,  that  the  Viceroy,  aware  of  the  incompetency  of  the 
authorities  at  Talcahuana  to  judge  in  maritime  cases,  no  less  than  of 
their  want  of  moral  principle,  would  order  the  ship  to  Lima. 

These  were  the  means  which  presented  to  me  some  chance  of 
escape  from  the  immediate  thraldom  under  which  I was  writhing.  A 
more  remote  prospect,  was  that  of  the  interference  of  the  Govern- 
ment of  the  United  States.  I did  not  doubt  that  a demand  would  be 
made  for  this  property,  which  under  existing  circumstances,  must  be 
complied  with  ; though  probably  at  so  remote  a period,  as  to  make 
it  of  little  benefit  to  me.  These  modes  of  relief,  however,  being 
foreign  to  myself,  were  not  agreeable  to  me,  nor  did  my  forlorn  situ- 
ation ever  reconcile  me  to  the  idea  of  being  indebted  to  foreign  aid,  to 
extricate  me  from  my  embarrassments. 


CHAPTER  XXVI. 


Examination  by  the  Assessors  — Liberty  to  go  on  Shore  — Escape  to  the  Enemy  cl 
the  Beaver’s  Men  — Indignation  of  the  Populace — Annoyance  of  Sentrien  — Arrival 
of  the  Venganza — Put  the  Guard  to  Sleep  — Answer  the  Watchword — Plan  of 
taking  the  F rigate  — Consequences  — Sounding  the  Men  — Day  appointed  — Disap- 
pointment 


irksomeness  of  being  confined  to  the  limits 


of  the  ship,  after  a passage  of  one  hundred  and 
ten  days,  was  very  great ; and  the  misfortune  of 
arriving  at  a besieged  place,  where  neither  fresh 
provisions  nor  vegetables  were  to  be  obtained, 
though  circumstances  in  themselves  trifling,  when 
compared  with  the  loss  of  the  property,  were, 
nevertheless,  so  provoking  as  to  produce  an  impatience 
and  irritability,  while  under  examination,  which  was 
occasionally  manifested  in  such  disrespectful,  and  even 
insulting  replies,  as  often  to  break  off  the  proceedings ; 
and  sometimes  to  provoke  a threat  of  imprisonment.  The 
questions  were  put  by  the  Assessor,  through  the  medium  of 
a sailor,  as  interpreter,  who  understood  either  language  so 
imperfectly  that  I had  frequent  occasion  to  correct  him.  This 
tedious,  and  often  ludicrous  business  was  continued  with  me  about  ten 
days ; after  which,  the  two  mates,  boatswain,  and  two  seamen,  were, 
by  turns,  subjected  to  a like  tedious  examination. 

Nearly  a month  had  been  spent  in  this  way,  and  we  had  not  been 
permitted  to  go  on  shore,  or  to  have  any  communication  with  the 
Canton’s  men.  At  length,  the  examination  being  finished,  orders 
were  given  that  we  should  be  permitted  to  go  on  shore  for  exercise, 
and  recreation  ; but,  at  a distance  from  the  town,  and  clways  guarded 


beaver’s  fl.XN  ESCAPE. 


297 


by  a soldier.  We  bad  been  in  the  enjoyment  of  this  indulgence  but 
a few  days,  when,  on  the  15th  of  November,  the  boatswain,  carpen- 
ter, cirrk,  and  three  boys,  being  ashore  in  the  jolly-boat,  eluded  tho 
vigilance  of  the  soldier  sent  to  guard  them,  escaped  in  the  boat,  and 
were  half  way  across  the  bay  toward  the  enemy,  before  the  alarm 
was  given.  As  soon  as  it  was  known  on  board  the  men-of-war,  all 
their  light  boats  were  sent  in  pursuit ; and  although  they  approached 
so  as  to  be  finally  within  musket-shot,  and  kept  firing,  yet  no  one  was 
injured,  and  they  readied  the  shore  in  safety.  Their  efforts  had  been 
watched  by  the  Patriots,  and  upon  their  landing  a party  of  cavalry 
appeared  to  receive  and  protect  them.  The  ship’s  boat  was  recovered 
and  brought  back  by  the  pursuers. 

Tins  was  an  event,  which,  as  might  be  expected,  set  the  whole 
populace  and  garrison  in  commotion.  There  were  no  epithets  too 
bad  for  us;  the  belief  was  current,  that  we  had  an  understanding  and 
communication  with  the  Patriots  ; and  consequently  that  there  ought 
to  be  no  hesitation  in  confiscating  the  ship  and  cargo  and  putting  us 
m prison.  It  was  fortunate  for  me,  that  at  the  time  the  alarm  was 
given,  I was  with  the  Governor,  who,  for  a moment,  suspected  me 
of  being  privy  to  it ; but,  after  a little  reflection,  and  my  assurance 
of  innocence,  he  acknowledged  having  done  me  injustice.  Never- 
theless, the  guard  on  board  had  orders  to  be  more  vigilant;  addi- 
tional sentries  were  placed  between  decks,  who,  by  passing  the  word 
from  one  to  another,  and  thence  to  the  sentries  on  deck,  kept  up  such 
a continued  bawling  all  night,  as  made  it  impossible  to  sleep. 

The  spanker  and  foretopmast  staysa*!,  which  had  been  kept  bent  to 
facilitate  in  keeping  a clear  hawse,  were  now  unbent  and  taken  away. 
A search  was  made  for  arms,  and  every  musket,  pistol,  sabre,  and 
boarding-pike  they  could  find  removed.  This  excessive  caution  and 
annoyance  lasted  only  two  or  three  days,  when  it  gradually  ceased, 
and  we  had  even  more  liberty  than  even  before  the  occurrence.  Not 
doubting  that  our  arms  would  be  taken  away,  we  had  used  the  precau- 
tion to  secrete  as  many  pistols,  and  sabres,  and  as  much  powder  and 
ball,  as  it  was  possible  occasion  might  demand,  and  these  remained 
undiscovered. 

On  the 20th  of  November,  the  Royal  naval  force  was  augmented 
by  the  arrival,  from  Lima,  of  the  frigate  Venganza,  of  forty-four 


298 


SEVENTH  VOYAGE. 


guns,  and  the  brigs  of  war  Pezuela  and  Potrilio.  More  than  a month 
had  elapsed  since  our  arrival ; and  so  little  had  been  done  toward  a 
decision  in  our  case,  that  we  had  abundant  evidence,  that  the  prover- 
bially sluggish  manner  of  doing  business,  so  peculiar  to  the  Spanish 
people,  was  in  no  degree  to  be  deviated  from,  in  the  present  instance. 
Their  progress  had  been  at  such  a snail-like  pace,  that  unless  affected 
by  some  political  change,  months,  if  not  years,  must  pass  away  before 
I could  rationally  expect  to  be  provided  with  those  documents  which 
were  requisite  for  my  own  justification  to  owners  and  underwriters ; 
no  less  than  to  enable  them  to  substantiate  their  claim  against  the 
Spanish  government. 

The  prospect  of  dragging  on,  for  an  indefinite  period,  the  wretched 
existence  which  I had  endured  since  arriving  at  this  port,  was  insupr 
portable.  Mortified  at  the  humiliating  position  in  which  I was  placed, 
goaded  by  the  long  train  of  evils  which  would  inevitably  result  to  me 
from  the  loss  of  this  property,  and  driven  to  desperation  by  my  inability 
to  perceive  any  prospect  of  a termination  to  such  misery,  I viewed 
destruction  in  an  effort  to  save  myself,  as  an  evil  of  less  magnitude ; 
and  therefore  determined,  if  I could  induce  my  men  to  join  me,  to 
put  in  execution  a plan  which  1 had  long  meditated  ; and  which  like 
all  revolutionary  movements,  would  be  deemed  praiseworthy  or  law- 
less, as  the  result  should  prove  successful  or  otherwise. 

While  lying  between  the  Spanish  vessels  of  war  where  our  ship 
was  first  anchored,  I had  a good  opportunity  of  noticing  the  absence 
of  proper  and  ordinary  discipline.  During  more  than  a month,  I 
paced  the  Beaver’s  deck  every  night,  often  until  the  middle  watch  had 
nearly  worn  away  ; and  observed,  that  more  than  half  the  time  the 
sentries  were  so  deficient  in  vigilance,  as  to  be  hailed  several  times  be- 
fore answering.  Perceiving  the  advantage  that  might  result,  if  I 
could  substitute  my  answer  for  that  of  the  sentry  on  beard  our  ship, 
I often  took  the  trumpet,  and  found  my  “ alcrlo  ” to  be  as  current  as 
that  of  the  Spanish  sentry.  I noticed,  also,  that  a great  number  of 
men  were  sent  away  in  the  launches  every  night,  to  guard  some 
weak  points,  at  the  eastern  extremity  of  the  town.  With  a view  of 
ascertaining  the  feasibility  of  rendering  nugatory  our  guard  of  twenty 
soldiers,  1 tried  the  experiment  of  giving  them  a can  of  grog  mixed 
with  a little  laudanum,  which  put  them  all  into  so  profound  a sleep 


PROSPECTS  BRIGHTEN. 


29& 


for  several  hours,  as  to  give  us  entire  control  of  the  ship  ; a circum 
stance  which  was  concealed  from  their  superiors  by  my  “ alerto  ” 
passing  for  that  of  the  proper  sentry. 

With  these  preliminary  experiences,  and  my  general  know  ledge  of 
the  slovenly  manner  in  which  the  duties  of  officers  and  men  were 
performed  on  board  Spanish  ships  of  war,  it  appeared  to  me,  that  if  a 
favorable  opportunity  presented,  and  my  men  were  resolute,  we 
might  take  the  commodore’s  ship  by  a coup  de  main.  It  must  be  ob- 
vious, that  the  carrying  out  successfully  the  plan  I had  formed,  must 
depend  on  obtaining  possession  of  the  fastest  sailing  ship.  This  I 
had  ascertained  to  be  the  Venganza.  Once  in  possession  of  this  ship, 
it  would  not  require  more  than  two  or  three  hours  before  we  should 
have  brought  her  to  anchor  in  the  bay  of  St.  Vincent’s,  which  is  only 
about  two  miles  to  windward  of  Talcahuana.  About  one  mile  east 
of  this  bay  were  encamped  the  Patriot  (or  besieging)  army,  the  com- 
mander of  which  could  not  fad  to  perceive  the  advantage  which  for- 
tune would  have  thus  thrown  in  his  way,  and  would  lose  no  time  in 
furnishing  the  number  of  men  requisite  for  the  performance  of  the 
various  duties  on  board.  These  could  be  embarked,  and  a return  to 
Talcahuana  effected  in  twelve  hours  from  the  time  of  having  left 
there,  if  necessary  ; but  it  is  probable  a few  additional  hours  might 
have  been  required  to  adjust  the  mode  of  proceeding.  A vigorous 
and  simultaneous  attack,  by  this  frigate  on  one  side,  and  by  the  Patriot 
army  on  the  other,  would  cause  the  surrender  of  the  town  and  ship- 
ping in  a very  short  time. 

I should  then  have  gained  possession  of  the  Beaver,  with  the  prin- 
cipal part  of  her  cargo  yet  on  board.  But  this  constituted  only  a 
small  part*  of  my  plan.  The  main  object  was  then  to  revolutionize 
the  kingdom  of  Peru  ; and  to  effect  this  purpose,  the  way  appeared 
to  be  clear,  and  not  very  difficult,  if  I could  induce  the  Chilian  Gen- 
eral to  furnish  me  with  the  requisite  number  of  men;  which,  as  they 
were  no  longer  wanted  at  Talcahuana,  it  was  presumable  he  would 
readily  do.  With  the  Venganza  thus  manned,  and  before  the  possi- 
pility  of  any  account  of  these  transactions  reaching  the  blockading 
squadron  off  Valparaiso,  I would  proceed  thither  with  Spanish  colors 
flying,  sheer  alongside  the  Commodore’s  ship,  the  Esmeralda,  before 
ihose  on  board  had  any  suspicion  of  danger,  and  take  her,  probably 


300 


SEVENTH  VOYAGE. 


without  losing  a man.  The  brigs  of  war  composing  a part  of  the 
blockading  force  would  then  surrender  without  resistance. 

When  1 had  thus  been  the  means  of  placing  in  the  power  of  the 
Chilian  government  the  whole  naval  force  of  Peru,  my  personal  ser- 
vices would  no  longer  be  necessary.  The  immense  advantage  to  be 
derived  from  it  could  not  fail  to  be  perceived  and  acknowledged  by 
them.  The  means  of  revolutionizing  Peru  would  .be  now  in  their 
power  ; and,  if  promptly  and  judiciously  used,  could  hardly  fail  of 
success.  To  prevent  the  possibility  of  escape  of  any  intelligence  to 
the  Peruvians,  and  while  the  fleet  was  preparing  for  invasion,  an  em- 
bargo would  be  indispensable.  As  it  would  be  obvious  to  the  Chilian 
government,  that  their  chance  of  success  would  greatly  depend  on 
despatch,  it  is  presumable  that  more  than  ordinary  efforts  would  be 
made  for  the  attainment  of  this  object.  Entering  the  bay  of  Callao 
with  Spanish  colors  flying,  the  people  of  the  town  would  immediately 
recognise  their  own  ships;  and  as  they  had  had,  for  a long  time,  the 
ascendency  on  the  ocean,  would  have  no  suspicion  of  their  being 
in  possession  of  the  enemy.  They  would,  therefore,  be  taken  com- 
pletely by  surprise  ; before  recovering  from  which,  the  Chilians  would 
have  become  masters  of  the  fortress,  of  the  town,  and  of  the  ship- 
ping. 

Thus,  amid  the  pressure  of  misfortune,  were  my  spirits  buoyed 
up  with  the  prospect  of  a change  in  my  affairs;  possibly  a brilliant 
one,  conducting  to  fame,  to  fortune,  to  the  chastisement  of  my  per- 
secutors, and,  more  gratifying  than  all,  to  the  restoration  of  their  prop- 
erty to  my  employers,  with  abundant  advantage. 

The  desperate  measure,  the  execution  of  which  now  occupied  mv 
sleeping  as  well  as  waking  hours,  in  which  the  lives  of  myself  and 
associates,  as  well  as  those  of  innocent  Spanish  seamen,  would  be 
jeopardized  or  sacrificed,  I was  aware  would  be  viewed  by  some  as 
high-handed,  lawless,  and  piratical  ; by  others,  as  a just  retaliation  for 
the  injuries  1 had  suffered  ; and,  by  a greater  number,  as  favoring  the 
efforts  of  an  oppressed  people,  for  the  overthrow  of  a despotic  gov- 
ernment, and  the  establishment  of  a liberal  one  in  its  stead,  highly 
commendable. 

But  to  perceive,  or  feel  the  full  force  of  the  motives  by  which  1 was 
ictuated,  it  is  proper  to  refer  to  some  scenes  in  my  narrative,  already 


MATURE  MY  ELANS. 


301 


detailed,  — such  as,  the  fruit  of  many  years  of  my  hard  earnings 
being  swept  off,  and  myself  and  family  reduced  to  poverty,  by  the 
robbery  of  Admiral  Cochrane,  sanctioned  by  a wicked  judge  of  Vice- 
Admiralty,  without  a justifiable  cause,  and  in  violation  of  the  laws  of 
nations  ; next,  the  treacherous,  mean,  and  cowardly  manner,  in 
which,  by  order  of  Napoleon,  my  vessel  and  cargo  was  stolen  from 
me  by  Murat  ; and  now,  without  having  violated  any  law,  or  deviated 
in  any  degree  from  the  tenor  of  the  existing  treaty, — being  again 
stripped  of  my  property,  reduced  to  penury,  and  goaded  with  the  pros- 
pect of  the  long  train  of  evils  which  were  inevitable.  Let  such  re- 
peated and  deeply  distressing  wrongs  be  brought  home  to  the  breast 
of  any  one  ; and  if  they  be  not  considered  sufficient  to  justify  the 
measure  on  which  1 had  determined,  they  will  do  much  towards  ex- 
tenuating it. 

Immediately  after  the  augmentation  of  the  naval  force,  mentioned 
to  have  taken  place  on  the  20th  of  November,  such  security  was  felt 
by  the  authorities  of  Talcahuana,  as  induced  them  to  return  to  the 
Beaver  her  ship’s  company,  who,  excepting  those  who  had  escaped  to 
the  Patriots,  had  been  kept  as  prisoners  from  the  time  of  our  arrival. 
This  was  a measure  I had  anticipated  ; and  but  for  which  the  plan 
must  have  been  abandoned,  as  I had  no  access  to  them  when  away 
from  the  ship. 

In  a few  days  after  the  arrival  of  the  Venganza,  the  small  vessels 
of  war  put  to  sea,  leaving  in  port,  besides  that  ship,  only  the  Sebas- 
tiana,  a heavy  sailing  vessel.  The  activity  and  enterprise  of  the  be- 
siegers was  such  as  to  make  a requisition  of  all  the  men  they  could 
spare  from  the  ships  of  war,  to  guard,  during  the  nights,  the  vulnera- 
ble points  cast  of  the  town.  On  this  duty,  and  on  that  required  else- 
where, so  many  men  were  necessary,  that  the  Venganza  was  often 
left  with  short  of  a hundred  on  board  ; and  the  crew  of  the  other 
ship  was  weakened  proportionally.  The  time,  therefore,  had  now 
arrived  to  mature  the  plan,  and  to  put  it  in  execution  with  the  least 
delay  possible. 

The  great  delicacy  and  caution  requisite  to  be  observed  in  sound- 
ing the  men,  and  in  ascertaining  if  they  would  engage  heartily  in  the 
contemplated  enterprise,  must  be  obvious  to  all,  who  are  capable  of 
appreciating  the  danger  of  trusting  to  sailors,  a secret  involving  such 
26 


302 


SEVENTH  VOYAGE. 


consequences  as  a discovery  would  create.  It  would  have  been  man* 
ifestly  imprudent  to  open  the  plan  to  the  crew  generally,  much 
before  the  time  when  it  was  to  be  put  in  execution  ; for  though  I 
had  no  doubt  of  their  fidelity,  yet  as  some  of  them  would  get  drunk 
when  they  had  an  opportunity,  the  secret  might  escape  them  while 
in  that  state. 

Choosing  a proper  time,  when  least  likely  to  attract  the  attention 
of  the  guard  on  board,  I invited  two  of  the  most  trustworthy  of  my 
men  into  the  cabin,  when  carefully  shutting  the  door,  and  looking  all 
round  to  be  sure  that  nobody  could  hear  us,  I began  by  expressing 
my  satisfaction  with  their  conduct  since  leaving  New  York,  and  my 
regret  at  the  misfortune  we  were  now  suffering,  to  which  I could  per- 
ceive no  prospect  of  an  end.  I then  observed,  that  as  it  was  always 
an  object  with  me  to  promote,  as  much  as  was  in  my  power,  the  hap- 
piness and  comfort  of  the  men  under  my  command,  I trusted  they 
were  satisfied  with  the  treatment  they  had  received  from  me  thus 
far  ; to  which  they  readily  assented.  Their  curiosity  seemed  now  to 
be  alive  to  know  what  was  coming  next;  perceiving  which,  I assured 
them  of  my  conviction  that  the  ship  and  cargo  would  be  condemned  ; 
of  which  they  also  said  they  had  no  doubt.  I spoke  to  them  of  the 
outrage  of  this  act,  performed  by  ignorant  blockheads  in  defiance  of 
a solemn  treaty  made  with  their  King  ; stated  to  them,  that  though 
restitution  would  be  made,  it  would  be  so  long  first,  as  to  be  little  ben- 
eficial to  us  ; that  we  had  no  other  prospect  before  us  than  being  left 
in  a strange  land,  without  means  of  support  ; that  tamely  to  submit  to 
such  cruelty,  while  any  means  of  redress  was  within  our  reach, 
would  be  disgraceful ; that  any  measures  however  violent,  for  extri- 
cating ourselves,  were  not  only  justifiable  but  meritorious,  and  that, 
by  a well-timed  and  bold  effort,  we  could  obtain  for  ourselves  liberty, 
fortune,  and  the  chastisement  of  our  enemies.  They  declared  that 
nothing  would  please  them  better  than  to  engage  in  any  plan  by  which 
they  could  get  clear  of  these  dirty  Spaniards,  and  give  them  a good 
whipping,  in  which,  they  said,  they  knew  every  man  of  the  Beaver 
would  heartily  join. 

I then  stated  to  them  my  conviction  of  the  practicability  of  our 
making  ourselves  masters  of  the  Venganza,  and  the  long  train  of 
brilliant  consequences  that  would  result  from  it,  as  already  detailed 


SOtJNMNG  THE  MEN. 


303 


They  started  a.  this,  and  seemed  to  be  disappointed  in  not  having 
proposed  to  them  a plan  of  less  difficult  accomplishment.  One  of 
them  said  it  was  too  hazardous,  the  odds  were  loo  great  against  us ; 
the  other  was  of  the  same  opinion.  I agreed  with  them  that  they 
were  right,  on  the  supposition  of  an  open  attack  ; but  that,  taking 

them  by  surprise,  we  should  obtain  possession  of  the  ship  before 

being  opposed  by  an  equal  number  to  our  own,  as  had  been  the  case 
in  numerous  instances,  of  vessels  taken  by  surprise,  where  the  dispar- 
ity in  the  relative  force  was  equally  great.  Among  other  instances 
within  my  knowledge,  I mentioned  to  them  that  of  Captain  Surcouffe, 
who,  with  only  eight  men,  took  an  English  Indiaman,  with  more  than 
one  hundred  men  on  board,  in  Balasore  Roads,  and  brought  her  safe 
to  the  Isle  of  France.  The  relation  of  this  fact  seemed  to  give'  them 
renewed  spirit,  and  to  lessen  their  belief  in  their  first  impression  of 
the  extent  of  the  danger ; as,  after  a few  minutes’  silence,  the 
eldest  said,  he  should  be  willing  to  engage  in  any  plan  where  I 

would  take  the  »lead,  looking  at  the  same  time  at  his  shipmate, 

as  if  expecting  him  to  be  influenced  b}'  his  decision,  which  was  the 
case. 

On  parting,  I desired  them,  when  a good  occasion  presented,  to 
sound  their  shipmates  as  to  their  willingness  to  engage  in  some  such 
plan,  without  stating  particulars ; and  without  referring  tome;  and 
to  be  sure  to  avoid  giving  any  cause  of  suspicion  to  the  Spaniards; 
never  allowing  themselves  even  to  hint  at  the  subject  in  their  presence, 
as  some  of  them  were  possessed  of  a few  words  of  English  ; and 
when  conversing  on  the  subject,  to  be  certain  it  should  be  where  they 
would  not  be  overheard  or  suspected.'’  The  propriety  of  such  cau- 
tion was  obvious  to  these  two  men,  and  they  promised  to  observe  it 
in  making  their  communication  to  their  shipmates,  and  to  enjoin  it 
especially  on  them.  In  this  delicate  mission,  they  conducted  with  all 
due  circumspection  ; and  the  result  was  as  I had  anticipated  it  would 
be. 

Their  treatment  by  the  Spaniards  had  greatly  exasperated 
them  ; which,  with  the  loss  of  their  actual  earnings,  as  well  as  those 
in  prospect,  all  combined  to  render  them  as  ready  and  earnest  to 
emancipate  themselves,  by  a desperate  effort,  as  I was  myself. 
It  remained  therefore,  now,  only  to  make  the  proper  arrange* 


304 


SEVENTH  VOYAGE. 


merits,  and  to  determine  on  the  time  when  the  blow  should  be 
struck. 

A circumstance  now  occurred  which  was  considered  to  be  auspi- 
cious. The  two  mates  of  the  brig  Canton  had,  within  a few  days, 
been  ordered  to  take  up  their  residence  on  board  the  frigate.  They 
had  heard  some  indistinct  rumor  of  what  was  going  on  ; and  it  was 
very  important  to  enlist  them  in  it.  With  this  view,  I made  a visit  to 
the  Commodore,  with  whom  I was  on  familiar  terms.  After  convers- 
ing with  him  some  little  time,  I took  leave,  and  found  my  two  coun- 
trymen waiting  for  me  on  the  quarter-deck.  There  were,  besides 
ourselves,  only  the  two  sentries  present,  neither  of  whom  understood 
a word  of  English  ; the  opportunity,  therefore,  for  a free  communi- 
cation, and  interchange  of  opinion,  could  not  have  been  better. 
While  walking  the  deck  I opened  to  them  the  plan;  having  in  previ- 
ous conversations  had  abundant  evidence  that  I might  safely  confide 
in  them.  As  1 had  anticipated,  they  admitted  its  feasibility,  if  the 
men  could  be  depended  on,  and  readily  agreed  to.  participate  in  its 
execution.  On  parting  I recommended  to  them  to  he  vigilant  in  mak- 
ing such  observations  relative  to  the  discipline  of  the  ship,  the  times 
in  the  day  or  night  when  most  weakened  by  absences  of  men,  the 
place  of  deposit  of  small  arms,  and,  generally,  of  every  thing 
which  should  tend  to  the  successful  accomplishment  of  the  object  in 
view. 

Although  I had  no  apprehension  of  any  one  of  our  number  proving 
recreant,  yet  is  it  obvious  that  there  is  danger  in  trusting  a secret  to 
so  many  individuals;  and  where  life  is  involved,  immediate  action 
is  the  best  and  safest  policy.  * It  had  been  observed,  that  on  Sundays, 
in  addition  to  the  men  required  for  the  defences,  others  were  allowed 
to  go  on  shore  for  amusement ; and  that,  in  the  afternoon  of  Sundays, 
most  of  the  officers  were  seeking  recreation  away  from  their  ships. 
Sunday  afternoon  then,  it  was  agreed,  was  the  proper  time  when  the 
attack  could  be  made  with  the  chance  of  least  resistance,  and  with  a 
fair  prospect  of  success.  It  was  now  Thursday,  and  the  Sunday  next 
ensuing  was  determined  on  as  the  day,  — the  great,  the  important 
day,  — in  which  we  were  to  expect  liberty  or  death.  The  interven- 
ing two  days  were  passed  in  great  anxiety,  lest  some  suspicion,  01 


WRITE  TO  MR.  ASTOR. 


305 


careless  conversation  should  avert  the  meditated  blow  ; and  I now 
fully  experienced  that, 

“ Between  the  acting  of  a drea  lful  thing 
And  the  first  motion,  all  the  interim  is 
Like  a phantasma,  or  hideous  dream- 
The  genius  and  the  mortal  instruments 
Are  then  in  counsel ; and  the  state  of  man, 

Like  to  a little  kingdom,  suffers  then 
The  nature  of  an  insurrection.” 

On  Friday  I was  occupied  most  of  the  day  in  writing  letters  to  my 
family  and  to  Mr.  Astor ; and  on  Saturday  afternoon,  we  all  met  at 
a secluded  place,  agreed  on,  at  the  outskirts  of  the  town.  This  could 
be  done  in  the  afternoons  with  as  little  chance  of  seeing  anybody,  or 
of  exciting  suspicion,  as  at  midnight,  for  all  were  taking  their  accus- 
tomed siesta.  1 had  the  satisfaction  of  finding  no  wavering  among 
them  ; but,  on  the  contrary,  all  seemed  to  be  resolute  and  anxious  for 
the  arrival  of  the  decisive  hour.  We  numbered  fifteen,  exclusive  of 
the  two  on  board  the  frigate.  After  settling  a number  of  preliminary 
steps,  such  as  designating  the  number,  and  persons  for  each  boat,  the 
manner  in  which  their  arms  were  to  be  best  concealed,  the  kind  of 
arms  to  be  taken,  &c.,  I addressed  them,  by  saying,  that  I presumed 
they  were  all  aware  of  the  hazardous  undertaking  in  which  they  were 
about  being  engaged  ; that,  once  embarked  in  it,  there  was  no  retreat; 
that  victory  or  death  was  the  only  alternative  ; that  any  flinching  in 
the  moment  of  attack,  by  any  one,  might  be  the  ruin  of  us  all ; and 
that  it  was  my  desire  if  any  one  among  them  felt  his  courage  flag- 
ging, or  unequal  to  facing  fbe  danger,  that  he  would  now  manifest  it, 
as  one  irresolute  man  might  be  the  cause  of  the  destruction  of  all  of 
us.  None  such  appearing  among  them,  but  all  being  resolute,  we 
returned  to  the  ship  in  different  squads,  of  three  or  four  each,  the 
better  to  elude  any  chance  of  observation. 

During  the  succeeding  night  my  sleep  was  uneasy  and  feverish, 
and  I arose  in  the  morning  without  being  much  refreshed  by  it.  The 
sun  rose  in  all  the  beauty  and  brilliancy  which  is  so  peculiar  to  this 
climale  at  this  season  of  the  year,  than  which  nothing  of  the  kind 
can  be  imagined  more  charming,  or  less  in  harmony  with  the  deeds  I 
26* 


306 


SEVENTH  VOYAGE. 


was  contemplating.  At  ten'  o’clock  the  customary  south  wind  had 
not  yet  began  to  blow.  I made  an  early  visit  to  the  frigate,  ostensi- 
bly to  the  Commodore,  but  really  to  see  the  men  of  the  Canton,  and 
to  make  my  final  arrangements  with  them.  For  this  purpose,  after 
finishing  my  visit,  with  a promise  to  return  in  the  afternoon  with  a 
book  he  wished  to  borrow,  I walked  the  frigate’s  deck  an  hour  with 
the  mates,  and  had  as  fine  an  opportunity  as  could  be  desired,  of 
making  all  the  observations  which  were  important,  and  which  were 
sufficient  to  convince  me,  that  if  our  men  were  resolute  there  was  no 
doubt  of  a favorable  result. 

Lest  so  many  men  should  excite  suspicion,  by  going  alongside  the 
ship  at  the  same  time,  it  was  agreed  that  the  Canton’s  boat,  with  half 
the  number  of  men,  should  be  sailing  about  near  the  frigate,  and  that, 
when  they  saw  the  Beaver’s  boat,  with  the  other  half,  go  to  the  star- 
board side  of  the  ship,  they  should  go  alongside  on  the  larboard ; while 
the  Canton’s  men  should  be  engaged  in  drawing  off’  the  attention  of 
the  sentries,  or,  failing  in  this,  to  snatch  from  them  their  arms.  The 
boats’  crews  mounting  simultaneously  on  opposite  sides  of  the  ship, 
would  instantly  clear  the  deck  of  the  Spaniards  ; while  at  the  same 
moment,  those  designated  to  cast  loose  the  fore-topsail,  and  to  cut  the 
cable,  would  perform  those  duties,  and,  with  the  accustomed  strong 
breeze  blowing  directly  out  of  the  bay,  we  should  be  well  under  way 
before  the  alarm  would  be  given  on  board  the  Sebastiana.  Such  was 
the  general  plan,  which  of  course  must  have  been  varied  as  contin- 
gencies might  require. 

It  was  past  1 1 o’clock  when  I left  the  frigate  and  returned  to  the 
Beaver  ; and  the  calm  continued.  This  was  very  unusual.  With  an 
intensity  of  anxiety  which  may  be  more  easily  conceived  than  de- 
scribed, 1 watched  the  occasional  slow  passing  clouds,  and  the  light 
zephyrs,  which  are  termed  by  sailors,  cat’s-paws,  until  the  sun  had 
passed  the  meridian,  and  the  prospect  of  a breeze  was  not  more 
encouraging.  But  it  might  come  suddenly  before  dark,  which  would 
be  in  time  for  us  ; we  therefore  administered  the  soporific  to  the  sold- 
iers on  board,  which  soon  had  the  desired  effect,  and  during  the  after- 
noon there  existed  no  obstacle  to  our  arming  ourselves,  and  to  mak- 
ing every  requisite  preparation  at  our  leisure.  But  the  customary 
wind  came  not,  and  it  must  be  viewed  as  a remarkable  fact,  that  at  a 


ATTACK  DEFERRED. 


307 

place  where,  at  this  season  of  the  year,  a strong  south  wind  blows,  on 
the  average,  nineteen  days  out  of  twenty,  we  should  have  this  day 
only  light  airs  from  the  northward,  and  calms.  Thus  were  we  com- 
pelled, by  a cause  over  which  we  had  no  control,  to  defer  the  execu- 
tion of  our  project  for  another  week,  to  our  great  disappointment. 


CHAPTER  XXVI  f. 


AtU.rk  of  Fever  — Assault  on  the  Town — Repulse — Condemnation  of  the  Ship  and 
Cargo  — Appeal  — Patriots  set  fire  to  and  abandon  Conception  — Arrival  of  Osorio 
with  Lour  Thousand  Men  — Pursue  the  Patriots  — Battle  of  Talca — Desperate 
state  of  the  Patriot  Cause — Battle  of  Maipo  — Ruin  of  the  Royal  Army — Return 
of  Osorio — Distress  of  the  People — Ships  ordered  to  be  ready — Removed  from 
the  Beaver. 


as  has  been  seen,  in  this  first  attempt, 
I had  a presentiment  that  sucli  a coincidence  of 
favorable  circumstances  would  not  again  occur.  I 
had  been  two  days  with  the  consciousness  of  ap- 
proaching fever,  which  I endeavored  to  avert  by 
cold  bathing  ; but  unsuccessfully.  On  the  day  suc- 
ceeding that  of  the  intended  attack,  the  fever  raged 
in  a degree  that  produced  delirium  ; and  it  was  not  till 
nearly  the  expiration  of  a week  that  I awoke  to  the  con- 
sciousness of  my  situation,  to  the  discovery  that  I was 
very  ill  ; that  I was  in  my  bed,  with  two  watchers,  and 
that  my  legs  were  very  sore  from  the  effects  of  blisters. 
lyMy?  These,  as  well  as  the  requisite  medicines,  were  prescribed  by 
v iSr the  surgeon  0f  the  Sebastiana,  Dr.  Rosseau,  who  had  been 
assiduously  attentive  and  kind,  from  the  first,  and  to  whom, 
in  my  ravings,  I had  applied  volleys  of  opprobrious  epithets. 

I now  perceived,  that,  in  the  course  of  a few  days,  l had  been 
reduced  from  the  utmost  vigor  of  health,  to  such  extreme  weakness, 
as  would  require  much  time  and  care  to  restore  me.  During  this 
period,  I learned  that  the  besiegers  had  made  an  assault  upon,  and 
had  gained  an  entry  into  the  town,  on  the  5th  of  December,  and  that 
after  several  hours  of  hard  fighting,  they  had  been  repulsed  with  the 
loss  of  three  hundred  men.  Thus  was  this  source  of  relief  annihi- 
lated. 


ARRIVAL  OF  OSORIO. 


309 


While  I was  in  so  feeble  a state  as  not  to  be  able  to  sit  up  in  my 
bed,  an  officer  was  sent  to  me  with  all  the  papers  relating  to  the  pro- 
cess for  my  examination,  and  a message  that  they  would  be  left  with 
me  ten  days  ; in  which  time  it  was  expected  1 should  make  my  de- 
fence, or  appoint  some  one  to  do  it  for  me.  Indignant  at  such  insult- 
ing cruelty,  I desired  the  officer  to  take  himself  and  papers  out  of  my 
presence,  and  not  to  appear  again  until  I had  sufficient  strength  to 
express  to  him,  and  those  that  sent  him,  my  opinion  of  such  barbarity. 
He  made  no  reply,  and  went  away,  taking  the  papers  with  him. 

All  my  long  cherished  hopes  of  extricating  myself,  by  a coup  de 
main , were  now  gone.  The  two  mates  of  the  Canton  had  gone  to 
Lima.  The  Beaver’s  men  had  already  taken  themselves  off  in  vari- 
ous directions.  The  discomfiture  of  the  patriots  had  obviated  the 
necessity  of  weakening  the  ships  for  the  defence  of  the  town,  and 
the  prospect  before  me  was  no  other  than  a long  course  of  litigation 
In  a Spanish  tribunal,  with  exhausted  energies,  and  with  no  chance 
of  a successful  result 

The  first,  and  most  important  object  was  now  to  regain  my  strength  ; 
and  this  was  to  be  effected  under  every  disadvantage  and  discourage- 
ment. The  delicacies  which  are  almost  indispensable  to  convales- 
cents, were  not  to  be  obtained  at  any  price  ; even  an  egg  was  only 
occasionally  and  with  difficulty  to  be  procured,  for  the  eighth  of  a 
dollar ; and  a chicken,  or  tender  bird  of  any  kind,  was  not  to  be  had 
at  any  price.  My  appetite,  however,  as  soon  as  I could  walk  a little, 
with  assistance,  became  keen,  and  it  was  apparent  that  I was  gaining 
strength,  under  the  scanty  and  wretched  fare,  which  was  procurable. 

While  in  this  feeble  state,  official  notice  was  sent  me  of  the  con- 
demnation of  the  vessel  and  cargo.  This  event  I had  so  long  expect- 
ed, that  the  information  did  not  affect  me,  as  was  intended  ; and 
while  I was  permitted  the  indulgence  of  my  quiet  and  comfortable 
quarters  on  board  the  Beaver,  and  could  employ  myself  in  the  contem- 
plation of  some  mode  of  rescue,  my  mind  regained  its  elasticity,  and 
my  strength  was  gradually  increasing.  As  in  duty  bound,  I appealed 
from  the  decision  of  this  tribunal,  from  a persuasion  that  some  of  the 
vicissitudes  of  war  would  yet  afford  me  a chance  for  the  recovery  of 
the  property, at  a higher  one;  hence  the  fate  of  my  own  affairs  de- 
pended so  much  on  the  decision  of  the  contest  in  Chili,  as  to  produce 


310 


SEVENTH  VOYAGE. 


an  interest  in  the  movements  of  the  contending  forces,  not  inferior  to 
that  of  those  who  were  actually  engaged. 

It  is  most  probable  that  the  commander  of  the  Patriot  army  had 
information  that  ships,  which  were  conveying  a great  augmentation 
of  force  to  the  Royal  Army,  had  sailed  from  Lima  ; as  on  the  5th  of 
January,  1818,  they  abandoned  their  position,  set  fire  to  the  city  of 
Conception,  and  retreated  towards  Santiago.  The  troops  which  had 
defended  Talcahuana,  took  possession  of  the  deserted  and  ruined 
city,  where  neither  provisions,  nor  booty,  nor  aught  but  desolation 
was  found. 

A few  days  after  this  event,  the  fleet  arrived  from  Lima,  having  on 
board  four  thousand  troops,  under  the  command  of  General  Oso- 
rio, the  son-in-law  of  the  Viceroy  of  Peru.  They  were  good-looking 
men,  well  equipped,  and  one  half  the  number  were  veterans,  who 
had  assisted  in  the  expulsion  of  the  French  from  Spain.  The  parti- 
sans of  royalty  were  now  greatly  elated,  and  confidently  predicted 
the  subjugation  and  tranquil  possession  of  the  country,  in  a very 
limited  time.  The  persons  designed  to  fill  the  offices  of  the  civil 
department  of  the  government,  came  also,  in  the  fleet,  and  among 
them  was  one,  who  possessed  more  liberality  and  intelligence  than  is 
usual  with  his  countrymen.  This  man,  Mr.  Pereyra,  was  appointed 
to  the  office  of  first  Oidor,  or  judge  of  the  supreme  tribunal  of  San- 
tiago. With  this  gentleman  1 became  intimately  acquainted  ; and 
from  frequent  conversations  with  him  on  the  subject  of  the  seizure 
of  the  Beaver,  as  well  as  from  indirect  sources,  I ascertained,  that  he 
condemned  all  the  proceedings  of  the  government  of  Talcahuana 
towards  us.  I was  therefore  encouraged  in  the  belief,  that  whether 
the  case  was  carried  before  the  superior  tribunal  at  Santiago,  or  that 
of  Lima,  the  decree  of  condemnation  would  be  reversed.  But  how 
many  dreary  months  were  to  be  worn  away  before  arriving  at  this 
consummation  was  not  in  the  power  of  the  best  informed  to  deter- 
mine. 

After  a few  days  spent  in  refreshing  the  troops,  and  making  the  requi- 
site preparation  for  transporting  the  baggage,  the  Royal  army  began 
its  march  in  pursuit  of  the  Patriots.  They  made  a fine  appearance 
as  they  moved  forward  with  all  “ the  pomp  and  circumstance  of  glo 
rious  war,”  and  with  a confidence  inspired  by  a belief  in  the  superi* 


ARRIVAL  OF  OSORIO. 


311 


ority  of  their  own  prowess  and  discipline,  and  the  greatest  contempt 
for  that  of  their  enemy.  The  Governor  Intendente  of  the  province 
of  Conception,  and  successful  defender  of  Talcahuana,  now  advanced 
for  that  defence,  to  the  grade  of  Brigadier  (Ordonez),  accompanied 
the  army,  as  second  in  command  ; and  from  the  very  contemptuous 
manner  in  which  I had  frequently  heard  him  speak  of  the  Patriot 
forces,  he  could  not  expect  to  meet  much  opposition,  or  much  of  that 
toil,  privation,  and  danger,  which  usually  attend  an  invading  army. 

In  their  march  to  Talca,  which  is  about  half  way  to  Santiago,  they 
met  with  no  interruption  ; but,  soon  after  leaving  this  town,  they  came 
in  sight  of  the  enemy.  There  was  some  skirmishing  between  them 
on  the  14th  and  17th  of  March,  and  on  the  18th,  so  considerable  a 
body  were  engaged,  and  the  Patriots  so  much  outnumbered,  and,  by 
their  resistance,  so  disappointed  the  hopes  and  expectations  of  the 
Royal  commanders,  as  to  convince  them  that  a coup  de  main , or  suc- 
cessful stratagem,  presented  the  only  chance  for  their  own  safety. 
Consequently,  with  a desperation  justified  by  the  danger  of  their 
position,  they  made  a sudden  and,  to  the  enemy,  unexpected  attack 
in  the  night  of  the  19th,  and  with  such  complete  success  as  to  take 
all  their  baggage,  twenty-nine  brass  field-pieces,  and  four  or  five 
thousand  muskets  ; they  killed  and  wounded  between  two  and  three 
thousand  men,  and  dispersed  the  rest  so  entirely,  that  there  remained 
no  obstacle  to  prevent  their  proceeding  directly  to  the  capital.  A 
victory  so  complete,  so  important,  and  attended  with  so  trifling  loss  on 
the  part  of  the  victors,  corresponded  with  the  expectations  of  the 
Royal  generals  at  the  outset ; and  tended  to  confirm  them  in  their 
contempt  of  their  opponents. 

The  cause  of  independence  in  Chili  now  appeared  to  be  desperate. 
There  seemed  to  remain  no  chance  of  recovery  from  this  tremendous 
blow  ; and  to  submit  to  the  mercy  of  the  conquerors  appeared  to  be 
the  humiliating  and  only  alternative.  But,  fortunately  for  them,  the 
infatuation  and  confidence  of  the  Royal  commanders  was  such,  that, 
instead  of  pushing  on  to  the  capital,  while  all  was  dismay  and  confu- 
sion, with  nothing  to  prevent  them,  in  true  Spanish  character  they 
remained  inactive,  s'x  days,  at  Talca.  This  gave  ample  time  to  the 
discomfited  Patriots  to  secure  a retreat,  to  collect  their  scattered 
forces,  and  to  combine,  within  a few  miles  of  Santiago,  an  army 


312 


SEVENTH  VOYAGE. 


which  still  outnumbered  that  of  the  Royalists.  So  confident  were 
the  Royal  partisans  at  this  place,  Talcahuana,  of  the  immediate  and 
complete  subjugation  of  the  country,  founded  on  the  official  despatches 
of  the  commander-in-chief,  that  many  of  the  inhabitants,  expecting 
the  surrender  of  Valparaiso  to  succeed  that  of  Santiago  immediately, 
were  about  embarking  for  the  former  place  on  their  way  to  the  latter. 
We  now,  for  the  first  time,  considered  our  situation  more  eligible  than 
that  of  our  countrymen  at  Valparaiso.  With  them  there  might  be 
some  (perhaps  a feeble)  plea  for  confiscation.  With  us  there  existed 
only  the  suspicion  of  such  ; and  a Court  of  Appeal  was  about  being 
established  at  Santiago,  from  which  we  had  much  to  hope. 

While  these  transactions  were  going  on  with  the  armies,  the  Com- 
missioners at  Talcahuana,  appointed  to  unlade  and  dispose  of  the 
Beaver’s  cargo,  were  busily  engaged  in  that  duty.  It  appeared,  how- 
ever, that  though  the  country,  over  which  they  had  control,  was  en- 
tirely destitute  of  the  manufactures  which  composed  the  Beaver’s 
cargo,  it  was  so  poor  as  not  to  be  able  to  pay  for  one  half;  and 
hence,  with  all  their  efforts,  the  Commissioners  were  unable  to  sup- 
ply the  necessities  of  the  army  ; on  which  account,  orders  were  re- 
ceived from  head-quarters  to  sell  the  ship.  This  appeared  to  be  giv- 
ing the  finishing  blow  to  the  business;  as,  after  a sale,  and  in  the 
event  of  a revocation  of  the  decree,  restoration  would  be  out  of  the 
question.  The  only  hope  upon  which  I could  now  lean  was,  either 
that  some  decisive  action  should  take  place  before  the  ship  was  sold, 
or  that  orders  should  arrive  from  the  Viceroy  of  Peru  for  the  ship  to 
proceed  to  Callao;  and  this  I had  urged  in  a letter  to  the  Viceroy, 
forwarded  in  January. 

After  the  retreat  of  the  Patriot  army,  there  was  no  restriction  to  the 
direction  or  extent  of  our  rambles  on  shore  ; and  as  they  were  con- 
ducive to  health,  scarce  a day  passed  without  my  taking  an  excursion 
of  several  miles.  In  one  of  these  solitary  walks,  while  crossing  a 
field  of  thick  underbrush,  between  Talcahuana  and  Conception,  I 
was  startled  by  suddenly  coming  upon  an  object,  whose  whiteness 
formed  a contrast  with  the  surrounding  shrubbery.  On  approaching, 

I perceived  it  to  be  the  skeleton  of  a man  and  horse,  who  had 
doubtless,  met  their  fate  on  the  day  of  assault,  had  been  stripped  of 
whatever  was  valuable,  and  been  left  unburied,  a prey  to  carrion 


tHE  CHILIANS  VICTORIOUS. 


313 


birds.  The  warrior  lay  by  the  side  of  his  horse,  each  a perfect  skel- 
eton, the  bones  bleached  clean  by  the  sun. 

It  was  now  about  the  middle  of  April ; and  if  there  had  been  no 
interruption  to  the  progress  of  the  army,  the  news  of  their  occupa- 
tion of  the  capital  ought  to  have  reached  Talcahuana.  While  all 
were  in  daily  expectation  of  hearing  cheering  news  of  the  submis- 
sion of  the  rebels,  or  of  their  being  driven  beyond  the  Andes,  and 
consequent  termination  of  the  war,  rumors  were  afloat,  that  the  enemy 
had  collected  in  such  numbers,  as  to  make  the  possession  of  Santiago 
dependent  on  another  battle.  The  following  day  it  was  whispered, 
with  an  air  of  secrecy,  that  the  Royal  army  bad  been  defeated. 
This  news  was  confirmed,  the  next  morning,  by  the  appearance  of 
the  commander-in-chief,  Osorio,  who,  a la  Buonaparte , had  effected 
his  escape  with  ten  or  twelve  followers  ; the  only  remains  of  the 
proud  army,  which  left  here  a few  weeks  since.  Ordonez,  and  near- 
ly all  the  officers  of  distinction,  who  were  not  slain,  were  made  pris- 
oners.* 

Th  is  decisive  action,  which  annihilated  the  prospects  of  the  Royal- 
ists, and  established  the  independence  of  Chili,  took  place  at  a village 
called  Maipo,  within  a few  leagues  of  the  capital,  on  the  5th  of 
April,  1818.  As  the  General,  in  his  flight,  passed  through  the  city 
of  Conception  without  stopping,  the  inhabitants  very  naturally  con- 
cluded, that  the  enemy  was  at  hand  ; and  the  scene  of  confusion,  ter- 
ror, and  dismay,  which  succeeded,  beggars  description.  These  truly 
unfortunate  people,  whose  attachment  to  their  King  had  induced  them 
to  abandon  their  homes  on  the  advance  of  the  Patriot  forces,  and  who 
had  returned  to  their  dilapidated  houses,  on  the  retreat  of  the  enemy, 
were  again  compelled  to  fly,  carrying  with  them  whatever  they  had 
yet  remaining  of  any  value.  During  the  two  succeeding  days,  the 
road,  leading  from  Conception  to  Talcahuana,  was  lined  with  loaded 
cattle  and  carts  ; with  men  and  women,  old  and  young,  each  carrying 
as  much  of  their  furniture  as  they  could. 

For  such  a sudden  influx  into  Talcahuana,  accommodation  was  dif- 
ficult to  be  found  ; and  many  families,  who  had  seen  better  days, 

* General  Ordonez,  and  a number  of  other  Royal  officers  captured  at  the  battle  of 
Maipo,  were  sent  to  Mendoza,  on  the  east  side  of  the  Andes,  and  were  afterwards  all 
massacred  for  alleged  conspiracy. 

27 


314 


SEVENTH  VOYA'jE. 


were  glad  to  occupy  a shed,  a stable,  or  any  place  that  afforded  only 
a partial  shelter  from  the  weather,  which  was  now  becoming  very 
inclement.  But  even  here  they  were  not  safe  ; as  it  was  evident 
that  all  the  force,  which  could  possibl}'  be  mustered,  was  not  equal  to 
defending  one  fourth  of  the  extent  of  the  lines.  Consequently,  if  the 
enemy  should  appear  suddenly,  no  other  resource  remained  but  a 
retreat  to  the  ships.  Aware  of  this,  the  commander-in-chief  had 
issued  orders  for  every  ship  to  be  put  in  a state  to  proceed  to  sea,  at 
a moment’s  notice  ; and,  as  a preliminary  step,  they  set  about  em- 
barking their  most  valuable  effects. 

The  acting  Captain  of  the  port,  Tavira,  was  appointed  to  the  com- 
mand of  the  Beaver,  of  which  he  gave  me  notice  by  letter,  at  the 
same  time  expressing  a wish,  that  I would  leave  the  ship  immediately. 
I replied,  that,  to  justify  my  leaving  the  ship,  I must,  in  the  first  place, 
have  an  order  to  that  effect,  signed  by  the  commander-in-chief ; and, 
in  the  next,  that  suitable  apartments  and  food  must  be  provided  for 
myself  and  servant ; and  that,  when  these  reasonable  conditions  were 
complied  with,  I would  obey  the  order,  and  not  till  then.  The  diffi- 
culty, at  this  time,  of  procuring  a room  on  shore,  was  very  great ; 
and,  although  he  made  great  efforts,  he  was  unable  to  obtain  one. 
He  therefore,  the  next  day,  brought  me  the  order,  signed  by  the 
General,  declaring  that  he  could  find  no  accommodation  for  me  on 
shore,  unless  an  arrangement  could  be  made  with  Mr.  Coffin  to  share 
his  room.  This  I declined  ; at  which  he  became  very  impatient ; 
and,  after  the  interchange  of  a great  many  angry  words,  and  a threat 
of  compulsion,  he  left  the  ship  in  a passion. 

In  a few  hours  afterwards  he  returned,  with  a smiling  countenance, 
and  told  me,  he  had  found  excellent  quarters  for  me  on  board  the 
Aguila,  a large  Lima  merchant  ship,  and  that  l was  to  live  at  the 
Captain’s  table.  These  I found  to  be  more  commodious,  though  less 
neat,  than  those  of  the  Beaver;  and,  acceding  to  the  arrangement,  I 
went  on  board  with  bag  and  baggage,  accompanied  by  the  steward, 
who  was  the  only  one  remaining  of  the  ship’s  company. 

I now  flattered  myself  that  my  affairs  had  approached  a crisis,  that 
would  soon  put  an  end  to  the  painful  suspense  and  uncertainty,  which 
I had  been  so  long  suffering,  by  my  early  departure  from  this  dreary 


STILL  DETAINED. 


315 


place  for  Lima..  But  this  illusion  was  quickly  destroyed.  As  soon 
as  the  panic  of  the  Royalists  had  subsided,  it  was  determined,  in 
council,  not  to  evacuate  the  place,  unless  compelled,  until  they  should 
receive  the  Viceroy’s  instructions. 


CHAP7  ER  XXVIII. 

Arrival  of  tho  Esmeralda  — Her  escape  from  Capture — A Ship  from  Lima  — An 
Order  from  the  Viceroy  for  us  to  be  sent  there  — Brig  Canton  prepared  — Sailed  on 
the  12th  of  May — Arrival  at  Callao — Interview  with  the  Viceroy  of  Peru  — Result 
— lake  a house  at  Lima — Visit  the  Officers  of  Government  — Encouragement  of 
eventual  Success. 

rainy  season  had  now  begun;  and  the  storms 
from  the  northwest  were  frequently  so  violent  as  to 
prevent  communication  with  the  town,  for  several 
days  in  succession.  To  pass  the  winter  on  board 
this  ship,  without  making  any  progress  towards 
bringing  my  affairs  to  a close,  presented  a prospect 
so  dreary  and  discouraging,  that  I began  again  to 
think  of  some  means  by  which  to  extricate  myself  from 
this  state  of  thraldom.  The  Potrillo,  of  sixteen  guns, 
was  now  the  only  vessel  of  war  in  port ; and  she  could 
not  be  made  ready  for  sea  in  less  than  twenty-four  hours. 
The  Beaver  was,  at  this  time,  lying  with  her  sails  bent,  and 
loaded  with  sugar  and  tobacco,  an  excellent  cargo  for  Val- 
paraiso. Six  of  my  men  were  acting  as  seamen  on  board, 
who  would  readily  have  joined  me  in  cutting  her  out.  It 
was  not  a difficult,  or  even  a very  dangerous  enterprise  ; but,  was  the 
advantage  commensurate  with  the  risk  ? Whether  successful,  or  other- 
wise, would  it  not  have  a tendency  to  invalidate  the  claim  on  the 
Spanish  government?  In  fine,  would  it  not  be  abandoning  a certainty 
for  an  uncertainty  ? 

While  deliberating  on  the  wisdom  of  this  project,  the  Esmeralda 
frigate  and  Pezuela  brig  arrived  ; the  former  having  been  boarded 
while  blockading  Valparaiso,  by  the  Chilian  ship  of  war  Lautaro 


ESCAPE  FROM  CAPTURE. 


317 


She  would  have  been  captured,  but  for  the  accidental  separation  of 
the  ships  before  a competent  number  of  men  were  able  to  board. 
The  few  who  succeeded  in  following  their  captain,  had  complete 
possession  of  the  upper  deck  for  some  minutes.  When  the  ships 
separated,  the  Spaniards  seeing  the  small  number  on  board,  rallied 
and  killed  them  all,  — among  whom  was  the  captain  of  the  Lautaro, 
and  the  carpenter  of  the  Beaver,  the  same  who  escaped  in  the  boat, 
us  related,  soon  after  arriving  at  Talcahuana. 

The  day  after  the  arrival  of  these  vessels,  May  6th,  a ship  from 
Lima  came  in,  by  which  I hoped  to  hear  something  that  might  gu’e  a 
turn  to  our  affairs  ; nor  was  I disappointed.  The  next  morning, 
General  Osorio  sent  for  Mr.  Coffin  and  myself,  and  told  us  he  intend- 
ed despatching  the  brig  Canton  immediately  for  Lima,  under  the 
American  flag,  and  with  an  American  crew  ; that  we  were  to  pro- 
ceed in  her,  and  that  there  justice  would  be  rendered  to  us.  This 
measure  was  in  conformity  with  an  order  from  the  Viceroy  ; and  was 
the  effect  of  my  letter  to  him  dated  the  28th  of  January  last.  A ray 
of  hope  once  more  dawned  upon  us ; and  the  joy  experienced  at  the 
prospect  presented  of  speedy  emancipation,  was  scarcely  less  intense 
than  that  which  the  criminal  feels,  who  receives  a reprieve  when 
under  the  gallows.  It  was  taking  a step,  and  a very  important  one,  if 
not  towards  recovering  the  property,  at  least,  towards  closing  the  busi- 
ness ; and  presented  the  prospect  of  an  end  to  that  distressing  state  of 
suspense,  which  is  so  wearing  to  the  mind,  when  the  object  is  so 
important.  As  every  individual  destined  to  embark  in  the  Canton, 
was  impatient  to  leave  a place  of  so  much  misery  as  Talcahuana 
(for  fevers  had  become  very  prevalent),  the  vessel  was  equipped  with 
more  than  ordinary  alacrity,  and  we  took  our  departure  on  the  12th 
of  May. 

Seven  months  had  now  elapsed  since  we  cast  anchor  in  this  truly 
wretched  place  ; wretched  from  being  subjected  to  the  government 
of  unprincipled  men  ; wretched  from  poverty,  filth,  disease,  and  all 
those  horrible  calamities  which  must  accumulate  in  the  seat  of  a civil 
war.  It  had  been  a period  to  us  of  continued  privations,  mortifications, 
provocations,  and  disgust ; but  we  had  all  survived  it ; and  the  relief 
now  afforded  us,  even  if  it  were  only  of  changing  the  scene,  seemed 
to  give  me  renovated  energy  and  spirits. 

27* 


518 


SEVENTH  VOYAGE. 


We  had  on  board,  as  fellow-passengers,  two  lieutenant-colonels  of 
the  Royal  army  ; one  of  whom  was  aid-de-camp  to  General  Osorio, 
and  was  bearer  of  despatches  relating  to  the  disastrous  battle  of 
Maipo.  If  a judgment  can  be  formed  of  the  cleanliness  of  their 
countrymen  from  these  officers,  the  mortality  on  board  their  ships, 
on  long  voyages,  is  easily  accounted  for.  We  were  twelve  days  on 
the  passage  to  Callao,  and  though  the  weather  was  always  delightful, 
the  personal  habits  of  those  gentlemen  during  the  whole  time  were 
excessively  offensive. 

The  Canton  had  on  board  about  twenty-five  thousand  dollars’  value 
of  the  Beaver’s  cargo,  and  some  pieces  of  brass  artillery,  the  trophies 
of  Talca.  I used  occasionally  to  banter  these  officers  on  their  impru- 
dence in  placing  themselves  thus  in  the  power  of  men  who  had 
experienced  so  great  injury  and  provocation  from  the  party  to  which 
they  belonged  ; and  to  show  them  that  I had  only  to  say  the  word, 
and  the  vessel  would  be  taken  into  Valparaiso,  and  they  delivered  up 
to  their  enemies ; and  I used  to  add,  that  their  confidence  was 
undoubtedly  grounded  on  the  appeal  thus  made  to  our  honor,  no  less 
than  to  the  consideration  of  its  being  clearly  for  our  interest  to  pro- 
ceed to  Lima,  and  hence  they  had  nothing  to  apprehend. 

We  anchored  at  Callao,  on  the  25th  of  May,  and  the  next  day 
obtained  permission  to  proceed  to  Lima.  Mr.  Coffin  and  myself  were 
kindly  received  and  hospitably  entertained  at  the  house  of  the  officers 
of  the  marine,  w'th  whom  we  had  become  acquainted  at  Talcahuana, 
until  we  could  procure  a house,  as  there  were  no  hotels.  We  now 
were  informed,  that  the  United  States  ship  Ontario  had  been  here; 
that  by  her  was  brought  the  first  intelligence  of  the  destruction  of 
the  Royal  army  ; that  her  commander  was  well  received,  and  was  on 
good  terms  with  the  Viceroy ; that  he  had  volunteered  to  go  to  Chili 
with  an  agent  for  negotiating  an  exchange  of  prisoners;  that  he  was 
now  absent  on  that  mission,  and  might  be  here  again  in  two  or  three 
weeks.  These  circumstances  all  favored  the  restoration  of  our  prop- 
erty. The  following  day  Mr.  Coffin  and  myself  were  presented, 
by  Dr.  Pedro  Abadia,  agent  of  the  Philippine  Company,  to  the  Vice- 
roy. Our  reception  was  as  favorable  as  we  had  any  reason  to  expect, 
or  as  was  consistent  with  the  policy  which  it  was  his  duty  to  observe 
towards  us.  He  addressed  us  in  a stern  and  earnest  manner,  accu 


HIRE  A HOUSE. 


319 


sing  the  Americans  and  English  of  promoting  and  encouraging  the 
rebellion  by  furnishing  the  insurgents  with  arms  and  ammunition  ; of 
contravening  the  laws,  by  introducing  merchandise  into  the  country 
and  taking  away  the  specie,  without  paying  any  duty  on  the  import  or 
export,  and  thereby  seriously  injuring  the  commerce  and  prosperity  of 
the  country.  But,  nevertheless,  he  added,  that  we  might  rely  on  his 
protection  while  here,  that  the  proper  authorities  would  investigate  the 
business  relative  to  the  ships,  and  that  justice  should  be  rendered  to 
us.  Without  giving  us  an  opportunity  to  reply,  he  abruptly  withdrew. 
Idid  not  augur  any  thing  unfavorable  from  this  interview,  although  I was 
aware,  that  his  general  charges  against  our  countrymen  were  true. 

The  excessive  aversion  to  business  of  the  men  in  office,  and  the 
heedlessness  and  waste  of  time,  which  has  long  been  observed  as  so 
peculiar  to  this  people,  would  have  induced  us  to  expect  great  delay, 
even  if  the  issue  should  be  against  us ; but  with  every  encourage- 
ment to  believe  it  would  be  in  our  favor,  we  hardly  dared  look  for- 
ward to  the  distant  period  which  might  bring  our  business  to  a close. 
We  therefore  set  about  hiring  and  furnishing  a house,  and  making 
such  provision  for  a comfortable  residence,  as  strangers  in  most  other 
cities  of  equal  magnitude  find  already  prepared.  We  agreed  upon 
one  that  would  answer  our  purpose  ; but  were  prevented  taking  pos- 
session for  several  days,  while  trying  to  get  rid  of  the  myriads  of 
fleas  with  which  every  room  was  filled,  and  which,  though  greatly 
diminished  by  frequent  washing  and  sweeping,  were  never  entirely  de- 
stroyed ; and  we  had  only  to  submit  to  an  evil,  for  which  we  could 
find  no  remedy,  and  to  which  the  natives,  from  long  habit,  had  be- 
come accustomed. 

To  be  possessed  once  more  of  a domicil  exclusively  my  own, 
was  a luxury  that  can  be  properly  appreciated  by  those  only  who 
have  been  harrassed  and  vexed  as  I had  been.  As  the  unhappy  mor- 
tal, waking  from  a night  of  sickly  dreams  which  seemed  an  age, 
rejoices,  though  fatigued,  to  find  the  danger  imaginary,  so  this  sudden 
succession  of  tranquillity  to  an  age  of  trouble,  though  so  dearly  paid 
for,  afforded  me  no  less  cause  of  relief.  Henceforth  I bad  to  apprehend 
no  more  restraint  from  an  arrogant  military  guard  ; no  more  surveil- 
lance from  the  harpies  of  the  custom-house  ; no  further  persecution 
from  a Fiscal  and  Assessor,  whose  characters  would  have  made  them 


320 


SEVENTH  VOYAGE. 


worthy  members  of  the  Inquisition,  in  the  most  rude  ages  of  its  exis- 
tence. Patience  was  now  the  virtue  which  it  was  most  requisite  to 
call  into  action,  since  to  avoid  disappointment  we  must  be  prepared 
for  a great  waste  of  time.  But  it  is  less  difficult  to  reconcile  one’s 
self  to  minor  ills,  after  having  been  so  long  subjected  to  such  severe 
ones ; nor  did  the  novelties  presented  by  the  Peruvian  capital  fail  to 
beguile  the  time. 

Through  the  kind  attention  of  two  of  the  officers  of  the  Royal  navy, 
(Mr.  Bocholan  and  Mr.  Rivera,)  we  were  introduced  to  several  of  the 
most  respectable  families  of  Lima,  whom  we  were  afterwards  accus- 
tomed to  visit  on  the  most  friendly  terms.  In  addition  to  these,  our 
business  necessarily  brought  us  in  contact  with  the  General  of  Marine, 
with  the  Assessor  of  Marine  and  his  family,  and  with  the  Fiscal,  by 
all  of  whom  we  were  treated  with  the  politeness  and  respect,  which, 
in  the  civilized  world,  is  due  from  one  gentleman  to  another  ; and 
which  formed  a striking  contrast  to  our  experiences  at  Talcahuana. 
As  it  respected  our  business,  there  seemed  to  prevail  but  one  opinion 
as  to  the  reprehensible  conduct  of  the  government  of  Talcahuana, 
and  the  probable  revocation  of  all  their  proceedings,  which  the  Fiscal 
termed  disparates,  or  nonsense. 


CH  A PTER  XXIX. 


Arrival  of  the  Ontario  — Threat  of  the  Viceroy  to  send  me  away — His  Change  of 
Opinion  — Promise  of  Protection  — Plan  a Voyage  to  Valparaiso  — Engage  a 
Ship  — Engagement  broken  — Disappointment—  Embai-k  for  Valparaiso  in  the 
Andromache  — Captain  Sheriffe,  Officers,  and  Crew — Observance  of  the  Sabbath 
— Recreation  — Masafuera  — Juan  Fernandez  — Arrival. 


the  proper  authorities  were  taking  the 
preliminary  measures  for  an  investigation  of  the 
doings  of  the  Talcahuana  government  towards 
us,  (near  the  last  of  June,  1818,)  the  Ontario 
arrived  from  Valparaiso,  with  the  person  charged 
by  the  Viceroy  with  powers  to  negotiate  an  exchange 
of  prisoners.  The  satisfaction  given  by  Captain 
Biddle  on  this  mission,  manifested  by  the  Viceroy’s 
presenting  him  with  an  elegant  and  costly  sword,  the 
5 lively  interest  he  took  in  the  restoration  of  our  vessels, 
the  attention  given  by  the  Viceroy  to  his  representations 
d*  on  the  subject,  and  the  prevailing  opinion  that  they  must 
be  restored,  all  confirmed  the  belief  of  a revocation  of  the 
doings  at  Talcahuana. 

1 ' k Everv  thing  relating  to  our  affairs  now  wore  an  auspicious 

aspect,  and  my  mind  was  busily  engaged  in  forming  the  various  plans 
for  future  operations,  which  depended  equally  on  the  amount  of  prop- 
erty restored,  and  on  the  privileges  to  be  granted  us.  In  imagina- 
tion, I was  building  up  a fortune,  which  the  peculiar  political  state  of 
the  country  seemed  to  insure  ; and  from  this  coincidence  of  favora- 
ble circumstances,  was  in  the  enjoyment  of  a degree  of  complacency 
to  which  I had  long  been  a stranger.  But  I was  suddenly  astonished 
and  confounded  by  the  information  conveyed  to  me  by  Captain  Biddle, 
directly  from  the  Viceroy,  that  I was  considered  by  his  Excellency  to 


322 


SEVENTH  VOYAGE. 


be  a dangerous  man  ; that  he  should  not  permit  me  to  remain  to  set- 
tle my  affairs;  but  that  I should  be  sent  out  of  the  country  immedi- 
ately ; and  the  reason  given  for  this  determination,  was  information, 
from  three  different  sources,  that  I had  uttered  treasonable  opinions  ; 
among  others,  having  declared  his  government  to  be  a tyrannical  one, 
and  that  the  sooner  it  was  overthrown  the  better. 

As  from  a knowledge  of  the  necessity  of  extreme  caution  on  the 
subject  of  politics,  I had  always  been  on  my  guard,  I did  not  hesitate 
to  declare  the  accusation  to  be  entirely  false  ; nor  would  my  surprise 
have  been  greater,  if  I had  been  charged  with  intent  to  assassinate 
the  Viceroy.  This  communication  was  made  to  me  by  Captain  Bid- 
dle at  Callao,  while  he  was  on  the  point  of  sailing  for  Columbia  River, 
and  after  he  had  taken  leave  of  the  Viceroy  ; he  could  not,  therefore, 
advocate  my  cause  otherwise  than  by  letter.  On  revolving  in  my 
mind,  whence  so  malicious  and  wicked  a report  could  originate,  I 
could  account  for  it  in  no  other  way,  than  that  some  of  those  scoun- 
drels who  had  been  engaged  in  the  plunder  of  my  ship,  and  to  whom 

I had  often  justly,  but  perhaps,  imprudently,  applied  that  epithet,  being 
apprehensive  of  exposure,  had  adopted  this  measure  to  have  me 
removed  out  of  the  way. 

With  this  impression,  with  Captain  Biddle’s  letter,  and  with  that 
confidence  which  conscious  innocence  inspires,  I went,  the  next  day, 
to  the  Viceroy.  He  received  me  with  civility,  and  repeated  what  he 
had  told  Captain  Biddle,  that  the  accusation  came  from  three  sources. 
I positively  denied  the  charge,  made  known  my  suspicion  of  its  origin, 
and  begged  that  my  accusers  might  be  called  before  him,  while  I 

was  present.  This  he  declined  doing.  I then  assured  him,  that  no 

one  of  his  subjects  could  be  less  disposed  to  meddle  with  governmen- 
tal affairs  than  myself ; that  to  send  me  away  before  my  business  was 
settled,  would  be  attended  with  such  ruinous  consequences  to  me, 
that  I should  prefer  remaining,  even  if  it  were  under  either  of  the 
hard  conditions  of  being  confined  to  the  limits  of  St.  Lorenzo,  of 
being  shut  up  in  the  Castle  of  Callao,  or  being  confined  to  my  ship, 
or  my  house  ; and  proposed  to  give  bonds  for  the  due  observance  of 
whichever  should  be  determined  by  his  Excellency. 

If  he  had  been  as  perfectly  convinced  of  my  innocence  as  he 
appeared  to  be  before  of  my  guilt,  he  could  not  have  evinced  it  rrnre 


PLAN  A VOYAGE  TO  VALPARAISO. 


323 


decidedly.  The  expression  of  his  countenance  was  suddenly  chang- 
ed from  the  forbidding  and  angry,  to  the  open  and  benign  ; and  he 
said  to  me,  “ No,  Cleveland  ; l will  take  none  of  those  precautions  : 
your  word  of  honor  is  sufficient,  and  I am  convinced,  if  you  made 
use  of  the  expressions  reported  to  me,  it  could  only  have  been  in  an 
unguarded  moment,  and  is,  in  a degree,  palliated  by  the  great  provo- 
cations you  have  endured  ; but,”  he  added,  with  emphasis,  “ take 
care  not  to  meddle  with  politics  or  religion,  and  depend  upon  my  pro- 
tection while  you  are  a resident  here.”  Thus  as  a thundergust, 
whose  violence  threatens  destruction  to  every  thing  within  its  range, 
passes  harmlessly  away,  and  is  succeeded  by  serenity  and  sunshine, 
so  were  my  prospects  suddenly  changed  from  the  most  gloomy  and 
adverse,  to  bright  and  favorable. 

Although  the  cases  of  the  Beaver  and  Canton  (which  were  pre- 
cisely similar)  involved  no  questions  of  intricacy  ; yet,  to  decide 
them,  without  the  requisite  waste  of  time,  would  have  been  entirely 
out  of  character ; neither  justice,  nor  humanity  could  have  excused 
it ; and  so  perfectly  aware  were  we  of  this,  that  we  only  urged  that 
the  decisions  might  take  place  in  time  for  Captain  Biddle  to  take  them 
to  the  United  States,  on  his  return  from  Columbia  river.  We  had, 
therefore,  to  look  forward  to  a period,  of  at  least  four  months,  in 
which,  as  no  new  questions  were  to  be  asked,  my  presence  appeared 
entirely  unnecessary,  and  my  time  lost,  unless  I could  think  of  some 
plan  for  its  employment. 

It  occurred  to  me  that  a great  opening  was  presented  for  a very 
lucrative  voyage,  by  taking  to  Valparaiso  a cargo  of  the  produce  of 
Peru,  and  returning  with  wheat,  if  permission  could  be  obtained  ; and 
if  a suitable  neutral  vessel  could  be  procured.  I made  known  my 
plan  to  a rich  mercantile  house,  who  readily  agreed  to  furnish  the 
capital  on  joint  account,  under  my  direction,  and  to  procure  from  the 
Viceroy  the  requisite  permit.  The  only  obstacle,  now,  was  the  want 
of  a ship  ; but,  as  the  voyage  would  afford  to  pay  extravagantly,  I had 
no  doubt  of  obtaining  any  whaling  ship  that  might  enter  the  | ort,  if 
not  loaded. 

These  preliminary  steps  had  hardly  been  taken,  when  there  a rived 
precisely  such  a ship  as  was  desired,  with  only  sixty  barrels  of  oil  on 
board,  having  just  arrived  on  the  coast.  I lost  no  time  in  applying  to 


324 


SEVENTH  VOYAGE. 


the  captain  to  charter  his  ship  ; and  anticipating  difficulties  from  the 
novelty  of  the  undertaking  to  him,  1 expected  to  obviate  them,  by  the 
very  tempting  proposal  I was  prepared  to  make,  for  the  use  of  his 
ship  for  three  or  four  months;  which  would  be  as  advantageous  as  a 
year’s  successful  fishing.  I offered  him  for  the  voyage  to  Valparaiso 
and  back  to  Callao,  fifteen  thousand  dollars;  to  pay  additionally,  if 
he  should  be  more  than  three  months  performing  it;  and  to  provide 
storage  for  his  casks  and  whaling  materials  gratis.  The  proposal 
was  considered  so  liberal  and  tempting,  that  he  agreed  to  accept  it ; 
but  unfortunately,  between  his  doing  so  and  the  papers  being  prepar- 
ed for  signing,  his  officers  and  men  were  guilty  of  some  indiscretion, 
in  consequence  of  a knowledge  of  this  transaction,  which  induced 
him  to  apprehend  that  he  was  taking  too  great  a responsibility  upon 
himself,  and  he  concluded  to  abandon  the  plan. 

The  failure  of  tins  first  attempt  to  retrieve  my  affairs,  was  a great 
disappointment,  especially  after  I had  succeeded  in  overcoming  all 
the  other  obstacles;  but  there  was  no  other  neutral  vessel  in  port,  to 
be  procured  ; and  consequently  no  other  remedy  than  the  exercise  of 
that  patience  on  which  such  large  drafts  had  already  been  made. 

Several  weeks  passed  away,  and  l was  each  day  anxiously  looking 
out  for  the  arrival  of  some  other  vessel,  which  would  offer  the  pros- 
pect of  putting  my  enterprise  into  execution  ; but  I looked  in  vain. 
As  the  Canton  was  a sharp-built  vessel,  and  sailed  very  fast,  the  gov- 
ernment determined  to  make  use  of  her  as  a cruiser,  during  the  time 
that  an  investigation  into  her  case  was  going  on.  For  this  purpose, 
carpenters  were  busily  engaged  in  making  the  requisite  preparations 
for  mounting  a piece  of  artillery,  on  a pivol  amidships,  &c.  &c. ; when 
a vessel  of  war  was  signalled,  which  was  supposed  to  be  the  Ontario. 
Immediately  all  labor  was  suspended,  and  preparation  made  to  undo 
the  work  already  done.  But  when  the  vessel,  instead  of  the  Ontario, 
proved  to  be  the  British  ship  of  war  Blossom,  the  work  was  resumed, 
and  the  armament  completed  ; thus  showing,  among  many  other 
instances,  the  deference  paid  by  the  authorities  to  the  presence  of  a 
national  vessel,  and  its  importance  in  securing  the  safety  of  property. 
The  Canton,  being  equipped  for  war,  sailed  on  a cruise  in  company 
with  another  armed  ship,  and  assisted  in  capturing  the  Chilian  priva- 
teer Maipo,  after  a severe  action.  She  was  afterwards  restored  to 


EMBARK  FOR  VALPARAISO. 


325 


her  original  master,  and,  after  navigating  the  coast  about  a year,  return- 
ed to  the  United  States. 

Impatient  from  inactivity,  and  such  unprofitable  expenditure  of 
time,  and  aware  how  much  more  must  be  lost  before  the  restoration  of 
the  ship  should  give  me  employment,  I determined  to  find  something 
to  do.  It  appeared  to  me  that  a trip  to  Valparaiso  would  be  placing 
myself  in  the  current  of  affairs,  and  that,  should  nothing  advantage- 
ous present  itself,  it  would  be  a change  of  scene  ; and  that  my  ex- 
penses would  be  scarcely  greater  than  if  1 remained  stationary  at 
Lima.  As  the  Andromache,  English  frigate,  was  on  the  point  of 
sailing  for  that  port,  I succeeded  with  her  commander  in  obtaining'  a 
passage  ; and  having  procured  a passport  from  the  Viceroy,  l em- 
barked, and  sailed  on  the  morning  of  the  3d  of  August. 

The  beautiful  manner  in  which  the  ship  was  got  under  way,  made 
a strong  impression  on  my  mind,  from  an  exhibition  of  discipline 
which  I had  never  before  seen.  When  the  marines  were  dismissed 
after  the  morning  parade,  the  colors  hoisted,  and  the  national  air, 
“ God  save  the  King,”  played,  every  officer  and  man  being  at  his 
station,  and  the  capstern  manned,  a signal  was  made  by  tne  captain, 
to  heave  ahead  ; the  cable  came  in  briskly  ; the  anchor  was  soon 
tript,  and  up  ready  for  hooking  the  cat.  While  the  ship  was  swing- 
ing round,  the  men,  who  had  been  stationed  for  the  purpose,  at  the 
shrouds  of  each  mast,  on  a signal  given,  ran  up  simultaneously  to  cast 
loose  the  sails,  while  the  requisite  number  were  stationed  below,  to 
sheet  home,  and  hoist  up  ; so  that  almost  in  a moment,  the  ship  was 
under  a crowd  of  sail,  and  swiftly  leaving  the  port ; andall  this  effect- 
ed without  a word  being  spoken,  and  as  if  by  the  effect  of  magic. 

We  arrived  at  Valparaiso,  after  a delightful  passage  of  twenty-four 
days.  I cannot  allow  the  pleasant  time  I spent  on  board  this  frigate 
to  pass  without  some  notice  and  without  acknowledging  the  erroneous 
impressions  I had  imbibed,  of  a British  ship  of  war.  In  common 
with  many  others,  and  especially  those,  like  myself,  whose  reminis- 
cences were  of  a date  as  remote  as  our  revolutionary  war,  1 had  im- 
agined an  English  man-of-war  to  be  a small  epitome  of  hell,  where 
tyrannizing  over  the  crew  constituted  the  principal  enjoyment  of  the 
officers.  That  there  were  great  abuses  of  this  kind  in  the  navy 
from  a very  early  period,  up  to  the  alarming  revolt  under  Presiden 
28 


326 


SEVENTH  VOYAGE. 


Parker,  I have  no  doubt,  any  more  than  I have  that  abuses  have  occa- 
sionally existed  since  ; but,  on  board  the  Andromache,  there  was 
never  any  unnecessary  severity. 

Captain  Sheriffe,  having  had  the  advantage  of  moving  in  the  most 
elevated  and  polished  society  at  home,  and  of  receiving  his  profes- 
sional education  from  one  of  the  most  able  commanders  in  the  British 
navy,  united  the  manners  and  urbanity  of  the  gentleman,  to  those  of 
the  skilful  and  accomplished  commander.  His  indefatigable  persever- 
ance in  attending  to  the  protection  of  the  commercial  interests  of  his 
country,  and  his  judicious  conduct  in  his  intercourse  with  the  govern- 
ments of  Chili  and  Peru,  in  the  most  trying  times,  were  no  less  evi- 
dence of  his  superior  abilities,  than  of  the  wisdom  and  discrimination 
of  those  who  appointed  him.  Nor  did  these  important  duties  interfere 
with  those  of  his  ship’s  company,  to  whose  morals,  manners,  cleanli- 
ness, and  comfort  he  was  attentive,  at  the  same  time  granting  them 
so  many  innocent  indulgences,  that  they  certainly  constituted  the  hap- 
piest ship’s  company  I had  ever  seen. 

With  such  a commander,  the  officers  could  not  fail  to  be  gentle- 
manly in  their  deportment,  and  attentive  to  their  duty  ; but,  indepen- 
dently of  such  example,  there  was  evidently  an  innate  desire  among 
them  to  second  the  views  of  their  worthy  commander  ; and,  messing 
with  them,  I had  good  opportunity  of  witnessing  a degree  of  amia- 
bility, harmony,  and  good  fellowship,  which,  unfortunately,  is  not 
always  met  with  in  the  ward-room.  Of  their  kind  attention  to  me, 
and  desire  to  make  me  comfortable,  I shall  always  retain  a grateful 
recollection.* 

With  Captain  Sheriffe,  the  passengers,  of  whom  there  were  four 
besides  myself,  were  invited  to  dine  in  rotation,  and  my  turn  was, 
generally,  two  or  three  times  a week.  An  excellent  band  of 
about  twenty  performers,  always  played  during  dinner ; invariably 
beginning  with  “ God  save  the  King,”  and  ending  with  “ Rule  Britan- 
nia.” After  dinner,  the  men  were  usually  exercised  at  the  great 
guns  ; and  if  the  weather  was  ever  «o  fine,  the  topsails  were  always 

* One  of  the  Lieutenants  was  a son  of  the  Admiral  Cochrane,  who, by  stripping  me 
of  mv  property,  in  the  West  Indies,  created  the  necessity  for  my  being  now  voyaging  la 
the  Pacific.  He  was  a gentlemanly  young  man ; and  was  ignorant  of  the  suffering 
his  lather  had  caused  me. 


ARRIVAL  AT  VALPARAISO. 


327 


reefed  before  sunset.  Sparring,  fencing,  and  dancing,  were  the 
amusements  of  the  midshipmen,  in  which  the  Captain  would  fre- 
quently join. 

The  seamen,  also,  had  their  hours  of  relaxation,  music,  and  dan- 
cing, once  or  twice  a week.  Sunday  never  failed  to  be  duly  hallowed. 
Soon  after  breakfast,  every  officer  appeared  on  the  quarter-deck  in 
his  uniform  ; the  marines  were  dressed  clean  and  paraded.  The 
gun-deck,  having  been  previously  prepared  with  benches,  and  a tem- 
porary pulpit,  at  a signal  given  (usually  about  ten  o’clock)  every  one 
attended  worship,  which  was  performed  with  as  much  solemnity  and 
decency,  as  I ever  witnessed  in  any  church.  The  chaplain  never 
failed  to  give  a plain,  good,  moral  lesson,  perfectly  adapted  to  the 
understandings  of  his  audience  ; and  such  as  they  could  not  fail  to 
profit  by.  The  music,  from  the  full  band,  was  delightful  ; and  when 
they  played,  as  they  often  did,  the  Portuguese  and  Pleyel’s  hymns, 
which  were  familiar  to  me,  they  called  up  associations  of  by-gone 
and  happier  days. 

On  the  24th,  we  passed  between  the  Islands  Masafuera  and  Juan 
Fernandez  ; the  next  day  was  passed  in  sailing  by  the  latter,  to  the 
southward  of  it ; and  the  day  after,  we  arrived  at  Valparaiso.  In  the 
numerous  passages  I have  made  at  sea,  I have  no  recollection  of  any 
one  that  afforded  such  a course  of  uninterrupted  enjoyment,  and 
which  was  so  entirely  pleasant  as  this  in  the  Andromache.  It  has 
made  an  agreeable  impression  on  my  mind,  which  will  never  be 
oblitp  a ted. 


CHAPTER  XXX. 


Visit  to  the  Governor — Difference  in  Effect  of  old  and  new  Government  — Tariff 

Mistaken  Policy  — Meet  some  of  the  Beaver’s  Men  — Expectation  of  Arrival  of 
Supreme  Director  — Rejoicing  on  his  Arrival  — Meet  with  Ribas  — Introduced  to  the 

Supreme  Director — Proposal  to  enter  the  Service— Charter  a Brig  — Embargo 

Journey  to  Santiago  — Cuesta  de  Prado  — Maipo  — Sketch  of  the  City  — Return  to 
Valparaiso. 


after  coining  to  anchor,  I 
went  on  shore  with  the  Captain  of  the  port,  who 
conducted  me  to  the  Governor’s,  where  I was  in- 
terrogated concerning  the  affairs  of  Lima.  After 
answering  a multitude  of  questions,  and  delivering 
to  the  Governor  all  the  letters  of  which  I had 
charge,  I was  permitted  to  take  leave,  and  to  pursue 
my  own  private  affairs.  While  seeking  the  residence 
of  our  worthy  consul,  Mr.  Hill,  with  whom  I intended 
transacting  my  business,  I accidentally  and  unfortu- 
5“*"%  nately  met  a relative  from  Boston,  who  persuaded  me, 
that  the  house  with  which  he  was  intimate,  Higginson, 
O’Brien  & Co.  would  do  my  business  more  advantageouslv 
than  any  other  in  the  place.  Relying  on  this  information,  I 
accompanied  my  friend  to  this  house  ; was  introduced  to  the 
partners  of  it ; accepted  their  invitation  to  take  up  my  quarters  with 
them,  and  had  my  baggage  transported  there. 

These  important  preliminaries  being  settled,  I had  an  opportunity 
of  leisurely  traversing  those  streets  which  my  friend  Shaler  and 
had  trodden  together,  sixteen  years  before.  The  government  was 
then  of  the  most  despotic  character,  and  the  most  determined  feature 
of  it  was  the  exclusion  of  all  foreigners,  excepting  those  in  distress, 
for  whom  provision  was  made  by  treaty.  The  government  now  pro- 
fessed to  be  republican  ; but  it  was  so  in  name  only,  as  the  military 


REMARKS. 


329 


tyranny  was  as  great  as  it  ever  had  been.  But  the  admission  of 
foreigners,  and  their  commerce,  gave  an  air  of  life  and  activity,  which 
was  never  before  known. 

The  lapse  of  so  many  years  appeared  to  have  made  no  alteration 
in  the  aspect  of  the  town.  It  was  as  exactly  what  it  was  when  I was 
here  before,  as  if  time  had  stood  still  ; no  new  houses,  no  improve- 
ments ; and  the  greater  bustle  in  the  streets  was  caused  by  the  for- 
eigners. The  most  striking  feature  presented,  to  mark  the  difference 
between  that  period  and  this,  was  the  harbor,  in  which  there  were 
then  two  or  three  merchant  vessels,  with  the  royal  flag  hoisted.  Now 
the  harbor  was  crowded,  and  besides  the  Chilian  vessels  of  war,  the 
flags  of  many  of  the  European  nations,  as  well  as  that  of  the  United 
States,  were  seen  displayed. 

But  the  resources  of  Chili  are  yet  unequal  to  supporting  a great 
commerce ; and  political  economy  is  so  little  understood  by  its 
rulers,  that  they  fail  to  derive  all  the  advantage  from  it,  of  which  it  is 
susceptible.  This,  among  other  things,  is  manifested  in  their  blind- 
ness to  the  truth  of  the  se.eming  contradiction,  that  more  revenue  is  col- 
lected when  the  duty  on  imports  is  ten  per  cent,  than  when  it  is  forty. 
Yet,  as  this  last  was  the  policy  of  the  old  government,  they  adhere  to 
it  ; so  that,  although  this  government  is  but  of  yesterday,  there  ex- 
ists the  same  system  of  smuggling,  and  the  same  degree  of  corrup- 
tion in  the  revenue  officers,  that  was  practised  under  the  old  regime. 
And  it  is  most  probable,  that  the  present  generation  will  pass  away 
before  the  public  injury  arising  from  this  wretched  policy  is  detected, 
and  then  another  one,  before  it  is  corrected. 

In  my  wanderings  about  the  town,  I fell  in  with  the  boatswain  and 
the  cook  of  the  Beaver,  both  of  whom  were  among  the  number  who 
escaped  in  the  boat  at  Talcahuana.  The  former  had  seen  hard  and 
dangerous  service,  but  had  also  shared  in  a prize,  from  which  he  de- 
rived more  emolument  than  he  would  if  he  had  performed  the  voyage 
in  the  Beaver  safely.  The  latter  was  one  of  the  number  who  board- 
ed the  Esmeralda  from  the  Lautaro,  and  was  so  fortunate  as  to  secure 
a retreat  when  he  perceived  the  ships  to  be  separating.  He  informed 
me  that  our  carpenter,  Svend  Anderson,  was  also  among  those  who 
boarded  the  Spanish  frigate  ; but  less  fortunate  than  his  shipmate,  he 
was  slain  on  that  ship’s  deck.  It  is  due  to  this  man,  cn  passant,  to 
28* 


330 


SEVENTH  VOYAGE. 


say,  that  he  was  an  excellent  carpenter,  an  orderly,  active,  and  indus- 
trious man,  and  was  probably  inuuced  to  engage  in  this  enterprise 
from  want  of  employment.  The  two  first  were  so  well  pleased  with 
the  excitement  incident  to  the  pursuit  of  war,  and  to  the  greater  emol- 
uments they  might  chance  to  derive  from  it,  that  they  declined  my 
proposal  of  returning  with  me  to  Lima,  to  join  their  old  ship  again. 

As  it  was  known  that  the  Supreme  Director  would  soon  come  to 
Valparaiso,  to  be  present  at  the  sailing  of  the  fleet,  I relinquished  the 
plan  of  proceeding  directly  to  Santiago,  as  1 had  intended.  Great 
bodies,  however,  are  proverbial  for  moving  slowly,  as  this  instance 
verified,  for  more  than  a week  had  elapsed  from  the  time  when,  ac- 
cording to  public  rumor,  he  should  have  arrived.  At  length,  however, 
the  extended  cavalcade  was  seen  over  the  distant  hills,  making  its 
way  towards  the  town,  and  the  long-expected  chief  and  his  family, 
with  the  proper  military  escort,  arrived  amid  a cloud  of  dust,  the 
clang  of  arms,  the  roar  of  cannon,  the  ringing  of  bells,  and  the  wel- 
coming cheer  of  the  mob. 

While  at  my  door,  engaged  in  seeing  the  procession  pass,  and  as  1 
supposed,  unknowing  and  unknown  to  everybody,  I was  much  sur- 
prised to  see  a person  leave  the  procession,  and,  approaching  me  with 
earnestness,  call  me  by  name.  He  immediately  dismounted  to  salute 
me,  and  I then  perceived  it  to  be  Francis  Ribas,  the  young  gentleman 
who  came  out  as  clerk  of  the  Beaver,  and  escaped  in  the  boat  as  be- 
fore narrated.  We  had  then  time  only  to  exchange  mutual  acknowl- 
edgments of  satisfaction,  at  this  very  unexpected  meeting.  The 
next  day  we  met  again,  when  he  apologized  for  leaving  me  as 
he  had  done  at  Talcahuana,  and  related  his  very  narrow  escape.  He 
said,  that  the  balls  from  the  musketry  of  the  pursuers  passed  far  ahead  of 
their  boat,  but  fortunately  no  person  was  hurt ; that  the  Patriot  cavalry 
were  watching  their  approach,  and  were  ready  at  the  sea-shore  to  re- 
ceive them  and  arrest  furtherpursuit ; that  he  was  conducted  to  the  Com- 
rnander-in-chicf  at  Conception,  who  received  him  very  kindly, and  provi- 
ded him  with  the  means  of  proceeding  to  Santiago,  where  he  recom- 
mended his  going  to  see  the  Supreme  Director  ; that  his  reception  by 
this  chief  had  been  of  the  most  friendly  character;  that  he  renewed 
his  wardrobe,  took  him  into  his  family,  and  gave  him  employment 
in  the  Secretary’s  office,  to  which  he  was  then  attached.  In- 


SUPREME  DIRECTOR. 


331 


deed,  I found  that  my  friend  Ribas,  like  the  others  who  escaped  with 
him,  had  changed  his  prospects  so  much  for  the  better,  as  to  have  nc 
desire  to  join  the  Beaver  again. 

By  Mr.  Ribas  I was  introduced  to  the  Supreme  Director,  O’Higgins, 
whose  father  had  been  greatly  distinguished  in  the  Chilian  annals  as  a 
public  benefactor.  This  son  probably  owed  his  high  post  to  the  ven- 
eration existing  for  his  father’s  memory;  for  although  admitted  to  be 
a man  of  good  moral  character,  and  of  a good  heart,  there  was  noth- 
ing but  his  name  and  fortune  to  make  him  a prominent  candidate  for 
the  responsible  office  of  Supreme  Director,  even  in  quiet  times,  much 
less  in  those  of  revolution  and  war,  like  the  present.  His  appearance 
was  plain,  simple,  and  becoming  a republican,  approximating  more  to 
that  of  an  honest  farmer,  than  to  the  refinement  of  a gentleman.  He 
received  me  with  great  cordiality,  expressed  much  sympathy  in  the 
misfortunes  and  perplexities  1 had  suffered,  hoped  I should  recover 
the  property  so  unjustly  taken  from  me,  &c.  He  then  made  many 
inquiries  relative  to  the  state  of  affairs  at  Lima  ; how  the  military 
and  naval  forces  were  then  disposed  of;  whether  there  were  any  ru- 
mors circulating  of  an  attack  from  the  Chilian  squadron;  if  the  peo- 
ple appeared  to  apprehend  such  an  attack,  &c.  To  all  which  queries 
I replied  in  as  laconic  a manner  as  possible. 

Mr.  Ribas  had  undoubtedly  impressed  him  very  favorably  towards 
me,  for,  in  this  first  interview,  he  offered  me  a commission  in  the 
Chilian  navy.  Making  due  acknowledgment  for  the  favorable  opin- 
ion this  proposal  indicated,  1 told  him  that  there  existed  scarce  a 
doubt  of  the  restoration  of  my  ship  ; that,  however  much  I should  be 
pleased  to  use  my  efforts  in  promoting  the  cause  of  the  revolution, 
my  duty  to  my  employers  was  paramount,  and  forbade  my  neglect- 
ing their  interest,  for  this  or  any  other  purpose.  As  he  had  ex- 
pressed so  much  feeling  for  my  misfortunes,  I was  induced  then  to 
ask  him,  so  far  to  contribute  to  their  relief,  as  to  grant  me  permission 
to  lade  a small  vessel  with  wheat  for  Lima.  He  encouraged  me  to 
expect  that  this  permission  would  be  given;  but  said  he  must  first 
consult  his  secretaries,  and  would  give  an  answer  the  next  day.  The 
interview  having  continued  nearly  an  hour,  to  the  great  annoyance  of 
many  who  were  waiting  in  the  antechamber,  I made  my  bow  and 
retreated.  On  the  presumpt’on,  that  if  the  decision  should  be  unfa 


332 


SEVENTH  V0YA3E. 


vorab'e  to  my  taking  a cargo  of  wheat,  there  could  ist  no  possible 
objection  to  my  going  in  ballast,  1 had  already  chartered  the  English 
brig  Livonia,  to  lade  for  Lima  and  thence  back  to  Valparaiso  with 
another  cargo  of  nine  thousand  dollars.  In  the  expectation  of  a 
favorable  answer  from  the  Supreme  Director,  I waited  on  him  the 
next  day,  at  the  hour  appointed,  and  was  disappointed  to  find  him  less 
disposed  to  accede  to  my  wishes  than  1 had  any  reason  to  expect,  from 
the  interview  of  yesterday.  The  secretaries,  1 had  ascertained, 
urged  the  impolicy  of  granting  such  privilege,  exclusively  to  one 
individual,  and  suggested  the  advantage  that  would  result  to  the  rev- 
enue, by  making  it  general.  In  conformity  with  this  idea,  it  was 
immediately  proclaimed,  that  licenses  for  lading  wheat  for  Lima, 
would  be  granted,  on  condition  of  paying  an  export  duty  of  four  dol- 
lars the  fanega.  This  duty  was  nearly  double  the  original  cost,  and 
with  the  duly  and  charges  in  Lima  would  make  it  come  so  high  as  to 
afford  no  prospect  of  benefit,  and  determined  me,  therefore,  to  have 
nothing  to  do  with  it.  My  best  course  now  appeared  to  be,  to  proceed, 
as  soon  as  possible,  to  Lima,  and  to  depend  on  the  profits  of  the 
return  cargo,  or  on  freight,  for  the  requisite  compensation. 

With  this  intention,  the  brig  being  ready,  I was  on  the  point  of 
sailing,  when  I had  a proposition  to  lade  the  vessel  with  manufactures. 
There  were  two  objections  to  this  ; the  first,  was  the  fear  of  an  em- 
bargo, which  there  was  no  doubt  would  take  place  prior  to  the  sailing 
of  the  fleet;  the  second,  was  the  uncertainty  of  obtaining  the  admis- 
sion of  such  a cargo  at  Lima.  The  first  difficulty  was  obviated  by 
he  contractor  engaging  to  lade  the  vessel  in  five  days,  and  if  not  so 
laden,  she  was  to  proceed  with  what  she  had  on  board,  at  the  expira- 
tion of  that  time.  The  se-ond,  by  his  stipulating,  that  if  the  cargo 
should  not  be  admitted  at  Lima,  and  the  brig  should  in  consequence, 
be  compelled  to  return  with  it  to  Valparaiso,  he  would  pay  the  amount 
of  the  charter.  Thus  having  a fair  prospect  of  reaping  great  advan- 
tage, without  incurring  any  risk,  I closed  the  contract,  and  imme- 
diately set  about  loading  the  brig. 

Before  the  five  days  had  elapsed,  however,  my  apprehension  of  the 
embargo  was  realized.  It  was  proclaimed  to  exist  till  the  sailing  of 
the  fleet.  Although  this  act  was  dictated  by  prudence  and  wisdom  at 
this  time,  yet  my  impatience  became  so  great  that  I had  serious 


CITY  OF  SANTIAGO. 


333 


thoughts  of  eluding  it,  by  going  off  alone  in  a boat ; in  which  I should 
have  no  doubt  of  reaching  Lima  in  safety.  But  beside  the  assurance, 
that  the  fleet  would  sail  at  the  time  appointed,  and  that  the  embargo 
would  be  raised  immediately  after,  was  to  be  taken  into  consideration 
the  effect  of  such  an  act  upon  the  enterprise  on  which  I had  already 
engaged,  and  these  causes  combined  to  produce  the  requisite  resig- 
nation. 

On  perceiving  that  a month,  at  least,  must  elapse  before  the  em- 
Dargo  would  be  raised,  during  which,  to  remain  idle  at  Valparaiso 
would  be  very  tedious,  I determined  to  fill  up  the  time  by  making  a 
visit  to  the  Chilian  capital.  Accordingly,  early  in  September,  I set 
out  with  a party  of  three,  on  this  journey,  on  horseback,  for  the  roads 
were  too  rough  for  the  use  of  light  carriages.  As  there  was  no  cause 
for  hurrying,  we  jogged  on  very  leisurely,  taking  three  days  to  per- 
form a journey  of  only  thirty  leagues.  The  exercise,  being  of  a 
kind  to  which  I was  entirely  unaccustomed,  was,  however  very 
fatiguing  to  me.  We  found  no  other  accommodation  for  travellers, 
on  this  road,  than  such  as  is  offered  by  the  houses  of  the  peasantry, 
which  is  indeed  very  miserable,  bad  enough  to  induce  an  effort  to  go 
through  in  a day,  if  possible.  That  the  road  was  as  good  as  we  found 
it.  was  owing  chiefly  to  the  indefatigable  exertions  of  a former  Pres- 
ident, O’Higgins,  who  evinced  a mind  of  no  ordinary  compass,  in 
planning  and  causing  to  be  executed,  that  part  of  the  road  which  leads 
to  the  city  over  the  Cuesta  de  Prado,  or  hill  of  the  meadow,  a labor 
of  such  great  utility,  and  of  such  (for  the  time  when  it  was  made) 
stupendous  magnitude,  as  to  perpetuate  his  name. 

The  borders  of  the  zigzag  road,  over  this  hill,  are  lined  with  shrub- 
bery, among  which  the  thornbush  prevailed,  which,  being  at  this 
time  in  blossom,  perfumed  the  air  with  a delicious  fragrance.  At  the 
summit,  the  view  is  very  extensive,  beautiful,  and  magnificent,  in- 
creased by  the  invariable  clearness  of  the  atmosphere.  The  northern 
view  is  limited  by  the  towering  Andes.  The  southern  and  eastern, 
by  hills  of  less  magnitude  ; the  intervening  space  being  beautiful, 
rich,  and  well-irrigated  meadows.  As  far  as  a judgment  could  be 
formed  of  the  agricultural  state  of  the  country,  from  the  transient 
view  taken  on  our  route,  I should  suppose  it  to  be  susceptible  of  great 
improvement.  We  reached  the  Louse  of  our  friend  at  Santiago  ic 


334 


SEVENTH  VOYAGE. 


the  evening,  after  crossing  the  Cuesta  cie  Prado,  so  much  fatigued, 
that  I was  very  glad  to  retire  early  to  bed.  A good  night’s  rest  was 
attended  with  refreshing  effects  ; and  with  renovated  energy  I went 
forth,  in  the  morning,  “ to  see  the  lions.” 

The  impressions  made,  on  a first  ramble  over  this  city,  are  prepos- 
sessing. It  had  more  the  air  of  cleanliness,  and  attention  to  the  com- 
forts of  the  most  numerous  class,  the  pedestrians,  than  any  other 
Spanish  city  I had  ever  seen.  A week’s  residence  within  its  walls 
made  me  familiar  with  its  streets,  public  buildings,  walks,  &c. ; of 
which  I shall  attempt  only  a hasty  sketch.  This  capital  of  the  Chil- 
ian republic  is  situated  on  a fine  fertile  plain,  at  the  foot  of  the  Andes. 
The  river  Mapocho,  over  which  a fine  bridge  of  stone  is  erected,  con- 
necting the  suburbs  with  the  city,  is  prevented  inundating  the  city, 
during  the  period  of  freshets,  by  strong  barriers  of  masonry  on  each 
side.  That  on  the  side  of  the  city,  in  addition  to  the  original  pur- 
pose, forms  one  of  the  most  agreeable  and  most  frequented  public 
walks.  The  southern  extremity  of  the  plain  is  bounded  by  the  river 
Maipo  ; a name  rendered  for  ever  memorable  in  the  Chilian  annals, 
by  the  decisive  victory  gained  over  the  invading  Royal  army,  which 
unalterably  established  the  independence  of  Chili. 

In  the  eastern  part  of  the  city,  rises  abruptly  from  the  plain  a 
remarkable  rocky  hill,  called  St.  Lucia,  which  is  said,  formerly,  to 
have  been  fortified  as  a defence  against  the  Indians.  This  fortifica- 
tion has,  by  a late  royal  President,  been  renewed,  and  some  cannon 
mounted  on  it,  with  a view  to  overawe  the  populace  ; and  hence  the 
name  of  the  President’s  Folly  has  been  given  to  it. 

In  most  Catholic  cities,  the  churches  are  the  structures  most  costly 
and  magnificent ; and  though  Santiago  is  not  deficient  in  this  respect, 
yet  the  building  called  the  Mint,  and  the  exterior  appearance  of  the 
custom-house,  are  far  more  imposing  and  magnificent  than  any  other. 
The  Mint,  which  was  designed  by,  and  built  under  the  superinten- 
dence of,  a native  and  self-taught  architect,  is  the  pride  of  the  city, 
and  indeed  would  be  creditable  to  any  city  of  Europe.  But  it  is  ob- 
jected by  some,  that  the  resources  of  Chili,  even  in  her  most  pros- 
perous days,  would  not  justify  its  great  expense.  The  private  dwel- 
lings, excepting  a greater  proportion  of  houses  of  two  stories,  are 
built  precisely  like  those  of  Lima,  forming  a hollow  square  or  court 


RETURN  TO  VALPARAISO. 


335 


and  occupying  a great  space  of  ground.  The  streets,  which  intersect 
at  right  angles,  are  generally  of  a good  breadth,  and,  for  the  most 
part,  clean  ; and  good  side-walks  prove,  that  plebeian  comforts  are 
more  attended  to  here,  than  at  Lima. 

The  Great  Square,  which  is  justly  the  boast  of  all  Spanish  cities, 
is  very  fine,  each  side  measuring  between  four  and  five  hundred  feet. 
The  Cathedral,  Bishop's  palace,  Audiencia,  and  other  fine  buildings, 
form  its  sides  ; and  the  centre  is  adapted  to  the  exercise  of  troops. 
The  women  have  no  peculiarity  of  dress,  like  those  of  Lima,  hut 
observe  the  European  fashions.  They  are  generally  admitted  to  be 
pretty  and  amiable,  and  no  more  cultivated  than  is  proper  to  make 
them  fitting  companions  for  the  men.  The  population  is  estimated 
at  sixty  thousand.  On  the  whole,  it  must  be  admitted,  that  Santiago 
possesses  a climate  which  is  unrivalled  for  its  salubrity,  that  it  is  a 
desirable  residence  for  the  man  of  leisure,  for  the  philosopher,  or  for 
men  in  office  ; but,  as  a commercial  city,  it  can  never  be  great  or 
flourishing. 

The  object  of  my  visit  to  Santiago  being  accomplished,  — that  of 
wearing  away  so  much  time,  — I returned  to  Valparaiso,  accompa- 
nied by  one  of  the  gentlemen  who  came  up  with  me.  We  passed 
one  night  only  on  the  road  ; and,  at  the  close  of  the  second  day’s 
journey,  reached  our  destination,  less  fatigued  than  with  our  ride  up. 
As  the  embargo  was  not  yet  raised,  my  absence  had,  in  no  degree, 
retarded  or  injured  my  business;  and  I derived  no  less  satisfaction 
from  this  consideration,  than  from  having  accomplished  an  object 
requiring  a kind  of  exertion  to  which  I was  entirely  unused, — riding 
on  horseback. 


CHAPTER  XXXI. 


Bail  for  Callao — Arrival  — Revocation  of  the  Decree  of  Condemnation  — Overture# 
to  buy  the  Ship  — Take  possession  of  the  Beaver— Obligations  to  Captain  Biddle 
— Livonia — Obligation  to  Captain  Sherilfe  — Embargo— Blossom,  English  Vessel 
of  War—  Judge  Provost — His  bad  Odor  with  the  Viceroy — Difficulty  of  procur- 
ing Jlen- — Obviated  by  Prisoners — Capture  of  Isabella  — Expectation  of  the  Chi 
lian  Eleet  — Remove  the  Beaver  below  the  Fleet — -Ready  for  Sea. 


Squadron,  on  whose  account  the  embargo  had 
been  laid,  having  sailed,  and  the  Supreme  Director 
having  returned  to  Santiago,  I waited  in  daily  ex- 
pectation of  being  permitted  to  sail ; but  such  per- 
mission was  not  granted  till  the  28th  of  October, 
when  the  sailing  of  the  British  frigate  Andromache, 
for  Lima,  left  no  further  plea  for  our  detention. 
Accordingly,  we  sailed  the  next  day,  in  the  Livonia,  for 
Callao.  During  the  passage  we  experienced  no  other 
than  the  favorable  breezes,  fine  weather,  and  smootli 
~ " sea,  which  are  so  common  in  making  this  passage,  and, 
after  twelve  days,  arrived  safely  at  Callao. 

Before  coming  to  anchor,  a boat  came  alongside  from  the 
Ontario,  in  which  I went  immediately  on  board  the  ship  to 
see  Captain  Biddle.  He  received  me  very  cordially  ; told 
me  he  had  been  earnestly  attempting  to  bring  the  government  to  a 
decision  in  the  cases  of  the  Beaver  and  Canton  ; that,  with  this  view, 
he  had  stated  to  the  Viceroy  the  sensation  which  had  been  caused  in 
the  United  States  by  the  capture  of  these  vessels,  the  importance  of 
their  restoration  to  a continuance  of  the  harmony  which  existed  be- 
tween their  respective  governments,  and  the  hope  that  a favorable 
decision  would  be  made  in  time  to  take  it  with  him  to  the  United 
States.  These  representations  were  earnest,  friendly,  in  accordance 
with  duty,  and  doubtless  had  an  effect  in  hastening  the  business;  but 


DECREE  OF  CONDEMNATION  REVOKED. 


337 


the  restoration  of  the  ship,  and  what  remained  of  her  cargo,  were 
acts  entirely  independent  of  these  efforts,  and  are  of  a description, 
which  prudential  reasons  prevent  being  made  public. 

At  length,  on  the  20th  of  November,  the  long  looked-for  decree 
was  issued,  revoking  that  of  Talcahuana,  declaring  that  no  cause  of 
condemnation  had  existed,  and  that  the  ship,  and  whatever  portion  of 
the  cargo  remained  in  the  government  stores,  should  be  restored 
forthwith,  and  that  I must  seek  for  the  residue  and  damages  where 
I thought  proper. 

There  had  existed  no  doubt  of  this  decision  ; but  the  ship,  having 
been  twelve  months  in  the  hands  of  the  Spaniards,  was  in  a very 
dilapidated  state.  A crew  could  be  obtained  only  with  great  difficulty, 
and  the  original  object  of  the  voyage  was  destroyed.  A merchant 
of  Lima,  of  the  first  respectability,  aware  of  these  circumstances,  and 
presuming  that  my  course  would  be  the  short  and  common  one,  in 
such  cases,  of  selling  the  ship  at  public  auction,  for  the  benefit  of  the 
underwriters,  made  overtures  to  me  to  buy  her  in  for  joint  account, 
to  be  employed  in  freighting  on  the  coast.  His  furnishing  the  money, 
and  my  commanding  the  ship,  were  to  be  considered  a balance  for 
each  other,  and  the  profits  to  be  equally  divided.  The  proposal  was 
a tempting  one  ; as  there  was  no  doubt  it  would  lead  directly  to  for- 
tune. But  it  was  obvious,  if  the  ship  could  be  advantageously  em- 
ployed, it  should  be  for  account  of  owners  and  underwriters  ; and 
feeling  that  in  making  up  to  them  any  portion  of  the  property  which 
had  been  lost,  while  under  my  care,  would  be  more  gratifying  to  me 
than  the  acquisition  of  fortune  under  such  circumstances,  I did  not 
hesitate  to  decline  the  proposal. 

On  the  25th  of  November,  an  officer  of  the  royal  marine,  having 
been  appointed  to  deliver  up  the  ship  to  me,  I went  on  board  with 
him,  accompanied  by  a few  men  from  the  Ontario,  and  took  formal 
possession  of  the  ship,  and  such  of  her  sails,  rigging  and  stores,  as 
remained.  These  being  very  few,  the  business  of  reception  was  soon 
accomplished,  when  we  discharged  a cannon,  and  displayed  the  Amer- 
ican colors,  once  more,  on  the  Beaver.  This  signal  being  under- 
stood on  board  the  Ontario,  a strong  detachment  of  men,  with  Lieu- 
tenant Stephens  at  their  head,  came  on  board,  and  before  night  had 
completely  stripped  the  ship  to  a girtline. 

29 


338 


SEVENTH  VOYAGE. 


If  the  Spaniards  are  filthy  on  board  their  own  ships,  it  was  fair  to 
presume  they  would  be  more  so  on  board  one,  which  was  supposed  to 
be  held  only  temporarily.  We  were  therefore  not  surprised,  to  find 
the  Beaver  dirty  in  the  extreme.  Indeed,  had  we  not  had  the  good 
fortune  of  obtaining  an  abundant  supply  of  men  from  the  Ontario, 
much  time  must  have  been  expended  before  we  could  have  accom- 
plished the  requisite  labor.  With  these  the  ship  was  cleansed  and 
rigged  in  a very  short  time,  compared  with  that  in  which  it  could 
have  been  done  with  the  laborers  obtainable  at  Callao,  and  at  a less 
expense.  For  this  I felt  myself  greatly  indebted  to  Captain  Biddle, 
who  extended  his  kindness  still  further,  by  supplying  a want,  which 
was  imperative,  and  which  I was  unable  to  provide  for  in  any  other 
way,  namely,  that  of  a person  to  act  as  first  officer  ; and  one  who 
would  be  qualified  to  take  charge  of  the  ship  and  property  in  the 
event  of  accident  to  myself.  This  person  was  midshipman  Alexander 
B.  Pinkham,  an  active,  efficient,  and  intelligent  officer,  whose  services 
were  invaluable.  The  obligation,  therefore,  of  owners  and  master  to 
Captain  Biddle,  great  as  it  was  before,  was  much  increased  by  this 
manifestation  of  desire  to  do  all  in  his  power  for  us.  Indeed,  his 
efforts  were  not  confined  to  the  rule  prescribed  by  duty.  He  remained 
many  days  after  being  ready  for  sea,  that  I might  have  the  benefit 
of  his  influence  in  obtaining  a privilege  which  1 sought,  that  of  intro- 
ducing a cargo  into  Lima  from  China,  and  in  procuring  an  acknowledg- 
ment, and  some  kind  of  liquidation,  of  the  debt. 

The  first  object  was  defeated,  by  the  opposing  influence  of  the  factors 
of  the  Philippine  Company  ; but  the  Viceroy  promised,  in  lieu  of  it,  to 
grant  some  special  privileges  on  the  Peruvian  coast.  It  was  apparent, 
however,  that  there  was  no  sincerity  in  these  promises  ; and,  as  further 
deiay  would  be  prejudicial  to  the  service,  without  benefiting  us,  Cap- 
tain Biddle  determined  to  lose  no  more  time,  and  sailed  on  the  6th  of 
December  for  Valparaiso,  on  his  way  to  the  United  States 

In  the  meantime,  the  impediments  that  had  been  thrown  in  the  way 
by  the  Consulado  and  merchants  of  Lima,  to  prevent  the  Livonia  from 
landing  her  cargo,  were  of  so  serious  and  determined  a character, 
that  nothing  short  of  its  being  met  with  equal  determination,  on  the 
part  of  Captain  Sheriffe,  of  the  Andromache,  could  have  saved  the 
enterprise  from  defeat.  In  the  course  of  a week  after  her  arrival 


preparations  for  a voyage. 


339 


/he  Livonia  had  been  three  times  ordered  by  the  Viceroy  to  leave  the 
port,  and  each  time  had  taken  refuge  under  the  guns  of  the  Androm- 
ache. At  length,  with  a degree  of  perseverance,  not  inferior  to  that 
which  had  been  manifested  by  Captain  Biddle  in  our  behalf,  permis- 
sion was  obtained  by  Captain  SherifFe  to  tranship  the  cargo.  This 
permission  was  understood  by  both  parties  to  mean,  that  while  a 
small  portion  was  sent  on  board  another  ship,  to  be  taken  out  leisurely, 
the  greater  was  to  be  taken  ashore.  By  this  Jesuitical  manoeuvre, 
the  opposition  of  the  Consulado  was  appeased,  and  the  object  obtained 
with  but  little  additional  trouble  and  expense.  ^ 

As  soon  as  the  brig  was  unloaded,  I obtained  permission  to  relade 
her  with  a cargo  of  Peruvian  produce  for  Chili;  'but  as  there  existed 
a probability  of  great  competition,  I was  afraid  to  risk  a large  amount 
on  my  own  account ; and  therefore,  loaded  only  one  fourth  the  ton- 
nage, taking  the  other  three  fourths  on  freight.  With  a view  of  ar- 
riving at  Valparaiso  before  any  of  the  other  vessels,  intended  to  be 
laden  for  that  port,  I had  made  great  exertions  and  spared  no  expense  ; 
but  I was  again  destined  to  experience  delay  and  disappointment.  The 
Livonia,  being  all  ready  for  sea,  the  15th  of  January,  1819,  I applied 
for  the  requisite  clearance,  and  was  informed  that  it  could  not  be 
granted;  inasmuch  as  an  embargo  was  then  laid  on  all  ships  in  port, 
till  the  St.  Antonio  (with  treasure)  should  have  sailed  for  Spain. 
Though  from  taking  on  freight  so  large  a portion  of  the  lading  of  the 
Livonia,  I had  already  secured  a handsome  emolument  from  my  enter- 
prise, this  detention,  by  favoring  competitors,  seemed  to  annihilate  the 
brilliancy  of  the  prospect  first  presented  ; but  there  was  no  other 
resource  than  patience. 

Early  in  this  month  (January,  1819,)  arrived  the  English  sloop 
of  war  Blossom,  Captain  Hickey,  from  Columbia  River,  having  on 
board  Judge  Provost,  of  New  York.  This  vessel  had  been  despatched 
to  Columbia  River  for  the  purpose  of  making  a formal  surrender 
of  Astoria  to  Judge  Provost,  — the  agent  of  the  United  States,  — ap- 
pointed for  that  and  other  purposes  in  the  Pacific.  This  business 
appears  to  have  been  accomplished  to  mutual  satisfaction,  as  both  par- 
ties gave  evidence  of  a reciprocity  of  kind  feeling. 

It  would  have  been  advantageous  for  the  American  interest  here,  if 
equal  good  feeling  had  existed  between  the  American  Agent  and  the 


340 


SEVENTH  VOYAGE. 


Viceroy  ; but  unfortunately,  the  very  reverse  was  the  case.  This 
Agent,  from  being  the  first  American  who-  ever  appeared  in  the  Peru- 
vian capital  in  a public  capacity,  not  less  than  from  the  favorable  dis- 
position of  the  Viceroy  towards  us,  had  an  opportunity  of  obtaining 
commercial  advantages,  and1  of  rendering  services  to  his  countrymen 
in  various  ways,  which  no  other  foreigner  ever  possessed  before  ; but 
these  were  entirely  paralyzed  and  lost,  by  his  incapacity  of  conceal- 
ing his  hostility  to  the  royal  government,  and  by  his  being  a partisan 
of  the  revolutionists.  His  sentiments  on  these  points  were  expressed 
so  imprudently,  so  unnecessarily,  and  in  so  unreserved  a manner, 
that  they  gave  great  offence  to  the  Viceroy,  and  were  productive  of 
such  coolness,  that  the  common  civility  which  is  expected  to  be 
observed  by  a private  individual  on  leaving  the  country,  was  either 
dispensed  with  by  the  Viceroy  or  purposely  neglected  by  the  diplo- 
matist. From  the  acquaintance  I here  formed  with  Mr.  Provost,  I 
was  fully  persuaded  of  the  sincerity  of  his  sympathy  in  my  misfor- 
tunes, and  of  his  satisfaction  at  my  prospect  of  surmounting  them  ; 
but  as  to  being  indebted  to  his  exertions  and  address  for  the  restora- 
tion of  the  Beaver,  as  is  recorded  in  one  of  the  New  York  Gazettes 
of  the  day,  so  far  from  this  being  the  case,  his  interference  could  not 
have  failed  to  be  prejudicial  ; and,  aware  of  this,  he  did  not  use  any. 

While  all  commercial  operations  were  suspended  by  the  embargo, 
1 was  busily  engaged  in  having  the  Beaver  prepared  to  be  ready  for 
sea,  as  soon  as  it  should  be  raised.  For  this  purpose,  we  were  kindly 
supplied  with  the  requisite  number  of  men  from  the  Andromache,  as 
none  were  procurable  from  shore  ; indeed,  such  was  the  scarcity  of 
foreign  seamen,  that  to  collect  the  number  required  for  the  Beaver, 
appeared  impossible.  In  making  the  exertions  which  I did  for  the 
restoration  of  the  ship,  which  were  the  cause  of  that  restoration,  in 
undertaking  the  arduous  task  of  manning  and  victualling  the  ship  in 
a place  so  difficult  as  that  of  Callao,  and  in  pursuing  a freighting  busi- 
ness on  the  coast,  with  no  other  than  a crew  made  up  of  the  most 
disorderly  men,  I was  actuated  only  by  an  ambition  to  retrieve  ihe 
loss,  and  to  convince  my  employer  that  his  confidence  had  not  been 
misplaced,  as  this  plan  was  entirely  independent  of  my  own  private 
emolument.  Indeed,  as  far  as  my  own  interest  was  concerned,  the 
obligation  to  which  the  restoration  of  the  ship  subjected  me,  was  man- 


WAITING  FOR  A LICENSE. 


341 


ifest'ly  very  detrimental ; as,  but  for  this,  with  far  less  trouble,  I could 
have  obtained  much  greater  profit. 

As  it  was  desirable,  on  various  considerations,  to  lose  no  time  after 
the  embargo  should  be  raised,  the  ship  was  put  in  complete  readiness; 
but  the  difficulty  of  procuring  men  seemed  to  be  insurmountable.  As  a 
last  resource,  though  a somewhat  hopeless  one,  I made  known  my 
embarrassment  to  the  Viceroy,  stating  to  him,  that  the  restoration  of 
my  ship  would  be  of  no  advantage  without  men  ; that  men  were  not 
procurable  at  Callao,  and  that  it  would  be  conferring  a great  obligation, 
if  he  would  permit  me  to  select  twelve  or  fifteen  men  from  among  the 
prisoners  in  the  castle  of  Callao.  He  hesitated  some  moments  at  this 
proposal  ; but,  after  a little  reflection,  assented,  on  the  -condition  that 
I would  engage  to  do  all  in  my  power  to  prevent  their  again  joining 
the  ships  of  the  enemy. 

Acceding  to  this  .condition,  the  observance  of  which  was  more 
important  to  me  than  to  him,  he  gave  me  an  order  to  the  governor  of 
the  castle,  to  deliver  me  fifteen  men.  There  were,  at  this  time,  nearly 
a hundred  prisoners  in  the  castle  ; a large  portion  of  whom  had  been 
taken  in  the  Chilian  privateer  Maipa.  They  were  of  all  nations,  but 
principally  English  and  Americans.  As  soon  as  they  knew  that  I 
had  an  order  for  tlie  release  of  fifteen  of  their  number,  the  solicitude 
of  all  was  so  great  to  be  among  the  fortunate  ones,  that  making  the 
selection  was  a task  so  disagreeable,  that  I relinquished  it  to  the  jailer, 
and  took  the  chance  of  having  inferior  men.  Having  selected  and 
taken  the  names  of  the  men,  they  were  not  permitted  to  go  on  board 
till  the  embargo  should  be  raised. 

I had  not  yet  obtained  the  license  for  lading  with  wheat  and  rice  at 
Guanchaca,  whence  a freight  was  offered,  but  was  daily  encouraged 
by  the  Viceroy  to  expect  it ; for,  although  the  Lima  ship-owners  were 
afraid  to  send  their  ships  out,  they  were  so  clamorous  against  the 
novelty  of  substituting  foreign  ships  in  the  coasting  trade,  that  the 
Viceroy  appeared  to  be  intimidated,  and  deferred  from  day  to  day  the 
promised  license. 

A visit  from  the  Chilian  squadron  was  generally  and  soon  expect- 
ed. Its  augmented  force,  resulting  from  the  recent  capture  at  Talca- 
huana,  of  the  Royal  frigate  Maria  Isabella,  and  the  circumstance 
of  Lord  Cochrane’s  having  been  appointed  to  the  supreme  command 
2£* 


SEVENTH  VOYAGE. 


342 

were  known  at  Lima.  Being  impressed  with  the  idea,  that  this  com- 
mander had  been  distinguished  for  intrepidity,  where  all  were  intrepid, 
and  recollecting  that  he  had  been  selected  as  best  fitted  to  lead  the 
party  destined  to  burn  the  French  fleet  in  Basque  Roads,  I presumed 
that  burning  that  of  Callao  would  be  no  more  than  sport  for  him  ; 
and  never  failed  to  express  this  opinion,  whenever  the  expected  attack 
was  the  subject  of  conversation.  In  confirmation  of  this  belief,  I 
took  the  precaution  to  move  the  Beaver  some  way  below  the  shipping. 

I had  been  repeatedly  urged  by  Mr.  Provost  not  to  incur  the  risk 
of  having  my  ship  burned,  by  waiting  for  a license,  which  he  did  not 
believe  would  ever  be  given  to  me  ; but,  to  leave  the  place  before  the 
arrival  of  the  fleet  might  cut  off  all  possibility  of  doing  so.  The 
advice,  l knew  to  be  well  intended  and  disinterested  ; but,  it  was  cer- 
tain, that  he  could  not  be  so  competent  to  judge  of  the  risk  of  having 
the  ship  burned,  as  I was  ; and  as  to  his  opinion  of  the  Viceroy’s 
intentions,  he  was  too  blinded  by  prejudice  to  form  a correct  one  : 
therefore,  I preferred  my  own  course,  which  was  that  of  persevering 
until  there  should  be  an  opening  for  some  advantageous  operation 
for  which  the  promised  license  would  be  granted. 


CHAPTER  XXXII. 


Embargo  raised — Arrival  of  the  Chilian  Fleet — Cannonading  with  the  Battevies-*- 
Useless  result — Removal  of  the  Beaver — Disposition  of  the  Crew  to  desert  — Visit  fr 
the  Viceroy — Obtain  a License — Chilian  Proclamation  of  Blockade  — Visit  Lord 
Cochrane’s  Ship  — Insolence  of  her  Captain — Sail  from  Pisco  — Arrival  there  — 
Mutiny  of  the  Crew  — Suppressed  — Sail  for  Guanchaca. 


jsW  Sunday,  the  21st  of  February,  the  Andromache, 
with  Mr.  Provost  as  passenger,  and  the  Livonia 
under  her  convoy,  sailed  for  Valparaiso  ; at  the 
same  time  sailed  the  Blossom,  with  a large  ainoun. 
of  treasure,  and  the  English  brig  Alexander, 
both  destined  for  Rio  Janeiro.  As  the  Livonia 
was  now  fairly  on  her  way  to  Valparaiso,  as  no 
other  of  the  neutral  vessels  had  yet  begun  to  lade 
for  that  port,  and  as  the  arrival  of  the  Chilian  squad- 
ron, momentarily  expected,  might  prevent  them,  I 
began  to  entertain  more  flattering  expectations  of  my 
speculation,  and  to  regret  that  I had  net  taken  a greater 
interest  in  it. 

Although  the  San  Antonio  had  not  sailed,  yet  she  was  so 
nearly  ready,  that  the  Viceroy  did  not  consider  it  of  impor- 
tance to  require  Captain  Sheriffe  to  defer  his  departure  any 
longer  on  this  account.  In  this,  however,  there  was  an  evident  want 
of  judgment ; as  Captain  Sheriffe  fell  in  with  the  Chilian  squadron, 
in  forty-eight  hours  after  leaving  Callao.  It  is  presumable,  that  the 
Chilian  commander  obtained  no  information  of  the  San  Antonio  being 
on  the  point  of  sailing,  otherwise  he  would  not  have  proceeded  imme- 
diately for  Callao,  but  would  have  remained  out  of  sight,  to  wind- 
ward, where  this  rich  ship  would  have  fallen  into  his  hands.  Fortu- 
nately for  the  owners  of  the  property  on  board  this  ship,  her  depas 


SEVENTH  VOYAGE. 


344 

ture  was  deferred  from  day  to  day,  until  the  28th  of  February,  when 
the  arrival  of  the  Chilian  squadron  put  it  out  of  the  question. 

This  is  the  season  of  the  year  when  the  atmosphere  is  almost  in- 
cessantly enveloped  in  a thick  fog,  and  it  was  at  this  time  extremely 
dense.  It  happened  that  the  Viceroy  had  selected  this  day  to  make 
his  annual  visit  to  the  fleet  and  line  of  defence  recently  completed. 
While  on  this  duty,  and  making  a circuit  in  the  bay,  on  board  the 
brig  Maipo,  unsuspicious  of  danger,  his  retreat  was  near  being  cut 
off,  and  himself  made  prisoner,  by  the  O'Higgins  and  the  Lautarc, 
Chilian  ships  of  war.  The  brig  had  just  returned,  and  come  to  an- 
chor, when,  the  fog  dispersing,  presented  these  two  ships  within  half 
cannot-shot  distance  of  the  castle.  The  Maria  Isabella,  or  O'Higgins, 
as  now  called,  displayed  the  American  flag,  but  this  was  disregarded 
at  the  fort;  as,  immediately,  the  cannonading  began  from  the  castle, 
fort,  and  men-of-war.  The  guns,  however,  were  evidently  elevated 
for  ships  at  a greater  distance,  as,  for  a few  minutes,  we  saw  the 
shot,  falling  in  abundance,  a long  way  outside  the  Chilian  ships  ; and 
then  again  every  object  was  hidden  from  our  sight,  by  a return  of  the 
fog.  As  neither  party  could  now  see  any  object  to  aim  at,  we  had 
soon  evidence  that  they  were  firing  at  random,  for  several  shot  passed 
between  our  masts,  and  were  striking  the  water,  both  inside  and  out- 
side of  the  Beaver.  Fearing,  therefore,  that  the  ship  might  sustain 
some  serious  injury,  we  slipped  our  cables,  and  made  sail  to  get  out 
of  the  way.  In  the  course  of  ten  minutes,  we  perceived  ourselves 
to  be  close  alongside  a large  ship,  which  proved  to  be  the  San  Mar- 
tin, of  sixty-four  guns,  Captain  Wilkinson.  The  fog  continuing  to 
be  so  dense  that  friend  could  not  be  distinguished  from  foe, — we 
came  near  having  the  whole  broadside  of  that  heavy  ship  poured  into 
us  ; every  man  was  at  his  station,  matches  lighted,  and  waiting  only 
the  word,  fire  ; when  they  perceived  us  to  be  a merchant  ship,  with 
the  American  flag.*  We  soon  after  came  to  anchor  about  four  miies 
below  Callao,  where  we  were  joined  by  the  other  neutral  vessels,  two 
of  which  had  been  struck  by  shot  from  the  batteries. 

The  O’Higgins  and  the  Lautaro,  favored  by  the  fog,  had  reached 


* While  speaking  this  ship,  five  of  my  men  jumped  overboard,  and  were  taken  up 
by  her  boat,  sent  for  the  purpose. 


VISIT  THE  VICEROY. 


345 


a most  advantageous  position  for  cutiing  out  the  Spanish  vessels,  before 
a gun  had  been  fired  ; the  San  Martin  was  near,  and  ready  to  afford 
succor,  in  case  the  other  ships  should  be  crippled  in  their  spars,  or 
otherwise  ; and  there  was,  all  the  time,  a fine  leading  breeze  which 
would  enable  them  to  bring  away  any  prizes  they  might  make,  or  to 
retreat  themselves,  if  it  should  be  found  necessary.  Under  so  favor- 
able a coincidence  of  circumstances,  the  complete  success  of  the  en- 
terprise, by  the  capture  of  all  the  Spanish  vessels  in  port,  seemed  to 
be  inevitable,  although  it  could  be  done  only  at  the  expense  of  a great 
sacrifice  of  life,  on  either  side,  — a consideration  of  trifling  weight, 
generally,  in  enterprises  of  this  description.  An  incessant  and  tre- 
mendous cannonading  had  been  kept  up,  for  about  half  an  hour,  after 
which  we  heard  only  an  occasional  gun,  and  then  a dead  silence  suc- 
ceeded. It  was  now  evident  that  the  battle  had  ceased  ; but  who 
were  the  victors,  or  who  the  vanquished,  whether  we  were  to  see  the 
Spanish  fleet  brought  away  by  the  Chilian,  or  the  latter  crippled  and 
flying  before  their  enemy,  were  events  of  the  most  interesting  and 
exciting  character,  but  of  which  we  were  unable  to  form  an  opinion, 
owing  to  the  extreme  density  of  the  fog.  At  length,  the  fog  dispers- 
ing, we  perceived  the  Chilian  fleet  within  about  a mile  of  us,  unac- 
companied by  any  prize,  and  apparently  uninjured.  They  came  to 
anchor  near  the  island  of  San  Lorenzo.  Such  a result,  such  a failure, 
under  so  favorable  auspices,  surprised  everybody,  and,  by  inspiring 
the  Spaniards  with  increased  confidence,  augmented  the  hazard  of  a 
second  attack. 

While  lying  at  anchor,  at  about  two  miles’  distance  from  the  Chil- 
ian fleet,  a disposition  was  manifested,  by  my  men,  to  desert  to  them. 
If  they  succeeded,  it  would  be  impossible  to  procure  others,  and  the 
consequence  would  be  ruinous.  To  avert  such  a misfortune,  recourse 
to  the  most  desperate  means  must  be  used,  if  others  failed.  I there- 
fore secured  the  boats,  loaded  my  pistols,  and  threatened  with  instant 
death  any  one  who  should  make  the  attempt.  A rigorous  watch,  by 
myself  and  officers,  and  a conviction  on  the  part  of  the  crew  of  the 
danger  of  the  undertaking,  kept  them  quiet.  Early  next  morning,  I 
proceeded  to  Callao,  and  experienced  considerable  difficulty  in  obtain- 
ing permission  to  land,  but  at  length  succeeded,  and  went  immediately 
to  Lima,  where,  on  my  arrival,  1 lost  no  time,  before  waiting  on  the 


346 


SEVENTH  VOYAGE. 


Viceroy,  whom  I found  surrounded  with  officers,  civil,  military,  and 
naval,  summoned  to  deliberate  on  the  best  course  to  pursue  in  the 
existing  emergency. 

As  he  knew  my  ship  was  lying  near  those  of  the  enemy,  and  pre- 
sumed 1 might  have  had  intercourse  with  them,  he  did  not  permit  me 
to  wait  many  minutes  for  an  audience.  But  I could  give  him  no 
information  which  he  did  not  already  possess,  of  the  size  of  the  ships, 
and  the  number  of  guns.  Of  the  crews,  whether  their  complement 
were  full  or  not,  or  whether  the  men  were  seamen  or  otherwise,  I 
knew  nothing.  I then  stated  to  his  Excellency  the  mutinous  dispo- 
sition of  the  Beaver’s  men ; the  difficulty  I had  experienced  in  pre- 
venting their  joining  the  Chilians ; the  only  mode  of  preventing  it 
being  that  of  sending  them  to  prison  again,  or  of  enabling  me  to  take 
them  away,  by  delaying  no  longer  to  furnish  me  with  the  promised 
license.  The  propriety  and  urgency  of  the  last  measure  was  so 
obvious,  that,  no  longer  regarding  the  remonstrances  of  the  Lima 
ship-owners,  he  directed  the  Secretary  immediately  to  make  out  a 
license  for  the  Beaver,  to  proceed  to  Pisco,  Guanchaca,  and  Pacas- 
inayo.  This  was  sent  to  me  next  day  at  Callao,  whither  I returned 
the  same  day. 

I now  applied  to  the  General  of  the  Marine  for  launches,  wherewith 
to  get  my  cables  and  anchors,  (which  had  been  slipped,)  and  take 
them  to  the  ship  ; but  he  refused,  from  the  apprehension  that  they 
might  be  taken  from  me  by  the  enemy.  I had,  therefore,  no  other 
resource  left,  than  that  of  going  with  the  ship  to  the  anchors.  With 
this  view,  we  got  under  way  on  the  2d  of  March,  and  beat  up  to 
where  our  anchors  lay,  which  having  recovered,  we  were  ordered  to 
move  down  again,  as  all  the  neutral  vessels  had  done,  in  order  that 
we  might  not  serve  as  a shield  to  the  enemy,  in  case  of  an  attack. 

The  intercourse  of  the  neutrals  with  Callao,  was  now  interdicted 
by  the  royalists,  and  those  of  them  who  had  not  taken  the  precaution 
to  supply  themselves  with  water  and  provisions,  were  actually  in  dis- 
tress, and  could  find  but  partial  relief  from  their  neighbors.  Whilst 
the  supercargoes  and  agents  of  the  several  neutral  ships  were  suffer- 
ing the  greatest  embarrassment  from  their  non-communication  with 
the  shore,  the  difficulties  were  greatly  augmented  by  a proclamation 
of  the  Chilian  commander,  Lord  Cochrane,  which  was  communicated 


BLOCKADE. 


347 


to  the  masters  of  all  neutral  vessels  then  present,  declaring  the  whole 
coast  of  Peru,  from  its  southern  extremity  to  Guayaquil,  in  a state  of 
vigorous  blockade  ; and  giving  neutrals  until  the  10th  of  March  tc 
settle  their  affairs,  and  remove  themselves  from  its  influence. 

This  measure  seemed  at  first  sight  to  threaten  annihilation  to  the 
prospect  presented  by  the  license,  of  which  I had  been  so  long  in 
pursuit,  and  was  of  so  serious  a nature,  as  to  require  much  pondering 
upon  the  next  step  I should  take.  The  incompetency  of  the  naval 
force  to  a legal  blockade,  even  of  one  eighth  part  of  the  coast  de- 
clared to  be  blockaded,  the  origin  of  the  measure,  and  the  intention, 
being  merely  an  apology  for  the  plunder  of  neutrals,  were  circum- 
stances so  palpable,  as  to  leave  no  doubt  in  the  minds  of  the  most  un- 
observing. Recollecting  that  the  government  of  the  United  Stater 
had  manifested  a determined  disregard  of  the  paper  blockades  of  Eng 
land  and  France,  from  whence  this  was  imported,  in  a direct  line,  b] 
his  lordship  in  person,  I had  no  doubt  of  protection  from  my  govern 
ment  in  disregarding  this.  Besides,  to  suppose  that  the  Chilian  Re 
public  would  hazard'offending  her  best  friend,  by  persisting  in  enforc 
ing  a measure  evidently  adopted  with  a view  to  plunder,  by  a few 
English  adventurers,  would  be  supposing  her  to  act  with  a degree  of 
imbecility  inconsistent  with  her  general  policy  since  her  attainment 
of  independence. 

From  these  considerations,  as  well  as  from  not  knowing  what  else 
to  do  with  the  ship,  I determined  to  pursue  the  plan  I had  marked  out 
at  first ; and  as  the  port  of  Callao  must  be  considered  now  as  legally 
blockaded,  not  to  return  there,  until  I had  ascertained  that  the  block- 
ade was  raised.  This  decision  was  in  opposition  to  that  of  all  the 
other  neutral  agents  ; and  of  the  twelve  neutral  vessels  then  lying  in 
Callao  bay,  the  Beaver  was  the  only  one  whose  destination  was  not 
defeated,  and  prospects  ruined  by  this  proclamation  of  blockade. 

Being  all  prepared  to  sail  on  the  8th  of  March,  I went  on  board  the 
O’Higgins  frigate,  to  demand  my  men,  but  with  no  expectation  of 
their  restoration.  Accordingly,  when  I made  known  to  the  Captain 
of  that  ship,  an  Englishman,  by  the  name  of  Foster,  the  object  of 
my  visit,  he  not  only  peremptorily  refused  giving  them  up,  but  in  the 
true  insolent  style,  peculiar  to  John  Bull,  expressed  a regret  that  more 
of  them  had  not  deserted.  As  I was  going  away,  he  tauntingly  held  up 


348 


SEVENTH  VOYAGE. 


the  proclamation,  and  hid  me  beware  of  the  consequences.  I replied, 
that  I was  as  well  acquainted  with  my  business  as  he  was  with  his, 
therefore  the  caution  or  threat  was  unnecessary  and  misplaced. 

As  the  Lautaro  was  lying  near,  I went  on  board  to  see  Captain 
Guise,  with  whom  1 had  become  acquainted  at  Valparaiso.  1 found 
him  in  his  cot,  recovering  from  a slight  wound  received  when 
exchanging  shots  with  the  castle.  The  friendly  and  polite  reception 
I experienced  from  this  gentleman  formed  a striking  contrast  to  that 
from  Captain  Foster,  and  presented  a remarkable  instance  of  the 
difference  of  conduct  on  the  same  occasion,  of  officers  of  the  same 
grade  ; one  of  whom  had  been  reared  and  educated  in  polished  socie- 
ty, and  the  other  among  the  low  and  vulgar.  Captain  Guise  express- 
ed regret,  that  their  present  want  of  men  was  such,  that  no  influence 
he  could  use  with  Lord  Cochrane  would  be  of  any  avail.  In  speak- 
ing of  the  proclamation  of  blockade,  I did  not  fail  to  express  my 
opinion,  that  the  government  of  the  United  States  would  support  me 
in  not  considering  those  ports  blockaded  before  which  there  was  no 
naval  force,  and  that  I had  determined  to  act  in  conformity  with  that 
opinion,  which  he  seemed  to  consider  a correct  one. 

On  returning  to  the  Beaver  without  the  men,  I perceived  a general 
manifestation  of  dislike,  among  the  crew,  to  go  to  sea,  with  so  many 
short  of  our  complement  ; but  there  was  no  possibility  of  procuring 
others,  and  delay  would  be  more  likely  to  change  the  aspect  of  affairs 
for  the  worse  than  the  better.  I therefore  called  all  hands  aft ; rep- 
resented to  them  the  easy  and  short  voyage  we  had  to  perform  ; that 
the  numbers  now  on  board  were  an  ample  complement  for  any  voyage 
on  this  coast ; that  I had  considered  we  had  an  extra  number,  origi- 
nally taken,  in  order  to  make  the  greater  despatch  in  lading  the  ship , 
but  that  nevertheless,  if  they  would  go  to  work  cheerfully  and  heave 
up  the  anchor,  I would  engage  to  divide  among  them  the  wages  of 
the  five  men  who  had  deserted,  until  I could  ship  others  in  their  stead. 
This  had  the  desired  effect;  they  went  with  alacrity  to  the  windlass, 
hove  up  the  anchor,  made  sail,  and  at  four  P.  M.  I was  once  again  on 
the  broad  ocean,  in  the  uncontrolled  command  of  the  Beaver. 

More  than  two  years  had  elapsed  since  the  seizure  of  the  ship  at 
Talcahuana ; and,  during  that  time,  I had  experienced  scarcely  any 
thing  but  a continued  series  of  vexations,  altercations,  and  the  most 


ARRIVE  AT  PISCO. 


349 


prolonged  and  aggravating  state  of  suspense.  The  freedom  from 
thraldom,  therefore,  which  I now  experienced,  was  at  first  difficult  to 
believe  ; and  many  days  passed  away  before  l possessed  an  entire  con- 
sciousness of  having  regained  the  power  of  independent  action.  We 
stood  off  to  the  southwest,  braced  sharp  to  the  wind  until  we  had 
reached  the  desired  latitude,  and  then  tacked  to  the  eastward.  As  we 
approached  the  land,  we  became  enveloped  in  a thick  fog,  which 
caused  the  loss  of  several  hours,  while  lying  to  in  the  hope  of  its  dis- 
persion. At  length,  it  suddenly  cleared  away,  and  showed  us,  that  in 
the  endeavor  to  save  time,  we  had  infringed  the  bounds  of  prudence. 
The  ship  could  not  have  been  better  placed,  even  had  it  been  clear; 
but  we  had  approached  the  shore  nearer  than  l supposed,  being  mid- 
way between  Sangallan  and  the  Chincha  Islands,  with  Pisco  right 
ahead,  where  we  anchored  at  four  P.  M.,  just  four  days  after  our  de- 
parture from  Callao. 

I immediately  went  on  shore,  and  was  met  at  the  landing  by  the 
Subdelegate  of  Marine,  Don  Vincente  Algorti,  and  a squad  of  armed 
soldiers.  On  being  satisfied  of  the  friendly  character  of  my  mission, 
the  soldiers  were  dismissed,  and  I was  conducted  to  town  by  the  officer, 
and  introduced  by  him  to  the  Governor,  Gonzalez,  who,  on  being  satis- 
fied with  the  legitimacy  of  my  passport,  offered  me  all  the  aid  in  his  pow- 
er to  facilitate  my  views.  As  it  was  late  in  the  evening  before  I finished 
my  interview  with  the  Governor,  and  the  surf  was  so  great  that  I could 
not  return  to  the  ship  without  getting  wet,  I accepted  the  offer  of  Don 
Vincente  to  taken  bed  at  his  house  ; and,  as  this  gentleman  had  almost 
the  exclusive  commerce  of  the  place,  it  gave  me  the  opportunity  of 
obtaining  the  requisite  information  relative  to  the  object  of  my  voy- 
age. He  told  me,  that  at  this  season  of  the  year,  only  a small  quan- 
tity of  brandy  and  wine  were  usually  procurable  ; but  he  thought  it 
probable  the  quantity  I wanted  might  be  obtained,  and  he  would  ascer- 
tain the  next  day. 

In  the  mean  time  it  was  discovered,  that  a brig  had  anchored  near 
Sangailan,  which  they  suspected  to  be  an  enemy  ; and  were  very 
desirous  that  I should  reconnoitre.  Accordingly  I proceeded  to  the 
brig,  which  I found  to  be  the  Frederick,  of  Stonington,  on  a sealing 
voyage,  only  four  months  from  the  United  States.  Here  I was  sur- 
prised to  be  recognised  by  the  mate,  who,  seventeen  years  before,  had 
30 


350 


SEVENTH  VOYAGE. 


been  navigating  these  remote  seas  with  me  in  the  Lelia  Byrd,  as  sea- 
man. He  had  pursued  the  sealing  business  since,  and  by  his  good 
conduct,  and  great  experience,  had  been  advanced  to  a mate’s  berth. 
The  report  I made  of  this  vessel,  which  at  the  same  time  was  con- 
firmed by  the  master,  in  person,  tended  to  relieve  the  apprehensions 
of  the  good  people  of  Pisco. 

On  the  third  day  after  our  arrival,  I sent  off  to  the  ship  several 
launches  loaded  with  brandy;  but  so  much  care  and  adroitness  were 
requisite  in  taking  it  on  board,  and  in  stowing  it  afterwards,  that, 
although  the  stowing  was  done  by  experienced  stevedores,  we  made 
but  slow  progress.  To  hoist  a fragile  jar,  containing  twenty  gallons, 
up  the  high  sides  of  a light  ship,  while  rolling  in  an  open  roadstead, 
required  the  attention  of  several  men  to  guard  it  from  striking,  and 
great  vigilance  in  the  officer  to  see  this  duty  properly  performed  ; yet, 
with  all  our  care,  many  jars  were  broken. 

The  feebleness  of  my  ship’s  company,  which  was  particularly  man- 
ifested when  taking  in  cargo,  the  apprehension  of  desertion,  and  the 
impossibility  of  supplying  the  loss  should  any  one  of  them  desert, 
their  knowledge  of  this,  and  probable  presumption  that  the  indulgen- 
ces they  received  might  be  still  farther  extended,  induced  them  to 
attempt  carrying  into  effect  a measure,  that  would  have  led  to  the 
subversion  of  all  discipline,  and  endangered  the  safety  of  the  ship 
and  cargo.  This  was  an  attempt  to  bring  on  board,  and  hold  in  their 
possession,  a jar  of  brandy.  I was  not  on  board  at  the  time  ; but  Mr. 
Pinkham,  seeing  the  man  with  it,  very  judiciously  endeavored  to  per- 
suade him  to  give  it  up,  promising  to  serve  it  out  to  them  in  such 
quantities  as  should  be  most  useful  to  them.  But  this  they  would  not 
submit  to,  and  swore  they  would  do  as  they  pleased  with  their  own 
liquor.  Perceiving  remonstrance  to  be  vain,  and  aware  of  the  mis- 
chief that  would  result  from  its  being  in  their  possession,  Mr.  Pink- 
ham  very  properly  knocked  the  jar  out  of  the  fellow’s  hands,  which 
broke  it,  and  spilled  all  the  brandy.  The  most  abusive  language  then 
followed  from  several  ; the  mutiny  became  general,  and  all  hands  left 
off  work.  In  the  evening,  one  of  the  shore  boats  brought  me  a note 
detailing  these  transactions,  and  the  continued  insubordination  of  the 
crew.  It  was  too  late  to  go  on  board  that  evening ; and  I had,  conse- 
quently, time  to  revolve  in  my  mind  the  most  prudent  and  judicious 


MUTINY  ON  BOARD. 


351 


mode  of  proceeding.  I was  offered  a file  of  soldiers,  to  take  as  many 
as  l chose  on  shore,  and  have  them  whipped  ; but,  though  this  could 
easily  be  done,  it  would  only  tend  to  increase  the  difficulty  when  we 
should  be  out  of  the  reach  of  this  aid.  It  was  obvious,  that,  to  secure 
any  further  services  from  these  men,  they  must  be  subdued  by  the 
efforts  of  myself  and  officers  alone  ; and,  cost  what  it  might,  I deter- 
mined to  try  the  issue,  and  to  convince  them,  that  there  could  be  but 
one  master  to  the  Beaver.  The  task  was  an  arduous  and  a hazard- 
ous one,  but  there  was  no  alternative. 

Accordingly,  on  going  on  board,  and  finding  my  officers  ready  to 
second  me, — all  work  on  board  continuing  to  be  suspended, — we 
determined  that  seizing  up  the  ringleader  to  the  shrouds,  and  giving 
him  a good  whipping  before  the  whole  crew,  would  be  the  readiest 
and  best  way  of  settling  the  difficulty  ; but,  if  the  men  made  the  re- 
sistance which  was  apprehended,  the  attempt  might  be  attended  with 
serious  consequences.  Having  loaded  our  pistols,  and  prepared  the 
requisite  seizings,  I called  the  ringleader,  by  name,  to  come  aft, 
which  he  did  very  readily,  and  no  doubt  with  the  expectation  of  sup- 
port from  his  shipmates.  I asked  him  how  he  dared  to  speak  to  the 
officer  of  the  ship  in  the  insolent  manner  he  had  done  ? He  replied 
with  equal  insolence,  that  the  officer  had  broken  his  jar  of  brandy, 
and  he  would  be  damned  if  he,  or  any  one  else,  should  do  any  more 
work  on  board  until  it  was  made  up  to  him.  1 then  turned  to  the 
mates,  and  desired  them  to  seize  him  up  to  the  rigging.  The  crew, 
who  had  been  watching  the  progress  of  the  business  from  the  fore- 
castle, now  began  moving  aft  in  a body.  1 therefore  immediately 
took  a pistol  in  each  hand,  and,  meeting  them  half  way,  leisurely 
laid  a rope  across  the  deck,  and  threatened  with  instant  death  any 
man  who  should  dare  to  cross  it.  This  had  the  desired  effect.  No 
one  had  the  temerity  to  try  me  ; and  the  fellow  was  whipped  until  he 
begged  for  mercy,  and  promised  never  to  behave  amiss  again  ; and 
indeed  he  was  ever  after,  while  on  board,  an  orderly,  good  man. 
With  my  pistols  still  in  hand,  I then  went  forward,  and  peremptorily 
ordered  the  men  to  their  duty,  on  pain  of  a like  punishment  to  any 
one  who  refused.  I did  not  allow  them  time  for  consultation  ; as, 
calling  them  by  name,  I ordered  them  immediately  on  various  parts 
of  ship’s  duty.  Not  one  of  them  saw  fit  even  to  hesitate  ; and  they 


352 


SEVENTH  VOYAGE. 


were,  ever  after,  as  orderly  a crew  as  I could  desire.  Having  now 
passed  a week  at  Pisco,  and  taken  on  board  six  hundred  jars  of  brandy 
and  wine,  we  sailed  for  Guanchaca,  and  thus  demonstrated,  that  this 
part  of  the  coast  was  not  in  a state  of  blockade,  in  the  true  and  legit- 
imate acceptation  of  that  term. 


C H A P T E R X X X 1 1 1 . 


Pisco — Arrival  at  Guanchaca — Alarm  at  Truxillo — Unlading  and  Relading  — Gal 
varino  — Men  detained  on  Shore — Suspicion  of  our  good  Faith  — Proceed  to  Mala- 
brigo  — Lose  two  Anchors — Proceed  to  Pacasmayo — .Finish  Loading- — Sail  fot 
Callao  — Touch  at  Guacho  — Hear  of  the  blockade  being  raised  — Arrival  a! 
Callao — Sketches  of  Truxillo,  Guanchaca,  Malabrigo,  Paeasmavo — Satisfaction 
given  the  Viceroy  — Discharge  the  Cargo— Proceed  to  Pisco  — Lade  with  Brandy 
— Return  to  Callao  — Disappearance  of  the  Volador. 


is  situated  on  a sandy  plain,  about  one 
* mile  and  a half  from  the  sea-shore.  It  has  two 


churches  near  the  Great  Square,  one  of 


which 

was  built  by  the  Jesuits.  These  indicate  a degree 
of  prosperity  and  riches,  at  the  time  they  were 
built,  which  does  not  now  exist.  Tn  their  decay- 
ing and  dilapidated  state,  in  that  of  the  private 
dwellings,  and  in  the  commerce,  so  meagre  com- 
pared with  what  it  might  be,  there  is  continued  evi- 
dence of  the  withering  effects  attendant  on  the  wretch- 
ed policy,  under  which  this  people  have  so  long  suf- 
fered. The  haciendas,  or  farms,  in  the  vicinity  of  Pis- 
co, are  very  productive;  and  their  produce,  brandy  and 
wine,  with  which  Lima,  and  the  whole  coast  as  far  as  Pan- 
ama, is  supplied,  meets  with  a ready  sale  ; but  the  heavy- 
duties  on  exports  from  thence,  and  on  the  imports  at  other  places, 
tend  greatly  to  cramp  and  diminish  this  commerce. 

As  the  next  port  of  our  destination  was  little  more  than  five  de- 
grees to  the  northward  of  Pisco,  we  had  a pleasant  and  easy  sad 
before  the  wind,  and  on  the  third  day  of  our  departure,  were  off  the 
town  of  Guanchaca,  which,  owing  to  a dense  fog,  yve  had  passed,  as 
we  perceived  on  its  clearing  away,  by  discovering  the  church  on  the 
hill  to  windward  of  us.  We  therefore  had  to  pass  the  day  in  tacking 
30*' 


354 


SEVENTH  VOYAGE. 


off  and  on,  to  gain  the  anchorage,  which  was  not  effected  until  sun- 
set. 

In  the  mean  time,  the  inhabitants  of  Truxillo  and  Guanchaca,  who 
had  heard  of  the  blockade  of  Callao,  and  had  no  information  of  our 
coming,  supposed  us  to  be  one  of  the  Chilian  squadron,  and  were 
thrown  into  the  greatest  consternation.  All  their  military  force  was 
on  the  alert  all  day  ; and  although  after  coming  to  anchor  I sent  (by 
a couple  of  Indians)  some  letters  from  Lima,  to  merchants  of  Trux- 
lllo,  tending  to  confirm  my  report  of  who  we  were,  these  were  not 
sufficient  to  quiet  their  alarms.  They  were  on  the  watch  all  night, 
and  Truxillo  remained  in  a state  of  confusion,  until  I went  on  shore 
(the  next  morning)  and  exhibited  to  the  Governor  the  license  of  the 
Viceroy. 

Immediately  on  landing,  I was  provided  with  a horse,  and  conduct- 
ed to  Truxillo,  by  a party  of  cavalry.  Being  escorted  to  the  Gover- 
nor’s house,  I found  him  and  the  Subdelegate  of  Marine  waiting  my 
arrival.  Neither  of  these  gentlemen  appeared  entirely  to  have  re- 
covered from  the  preceding  night’s  alarm.  The  Governor,  however, 
did  give  intimation  of  returning  spirits,  in  my  presence,  by  a severe 
reprimand  to  a respectable  looking  man,  who  happened  to  come  in  on 
business.  Adverting  to  the  confusion  that  reigned  in  the  town,  the 
preceding  night,  he  angrily  observed  to  him,  that  it  had  appeared  as 
if  every  man  would  be  governor,  but  he  would  let  them  know  there 
was  hut  one.  Owing  to  the  mail  from  Lima  having  been  stopped  Dy 
the  freshets  which  rendered  the  rivers  impassable,  we  were  the  bear- 
ers of  dates  ten  days  later  from  thence,  than  they  were  in  possession 
of,  notwithstanding  our  voyage  first  to  Pisco ; consequently,  as  all  in- 
formation was  particularly  interesting  and  acceptable  at  this  time,  my 
visit  was  prolonged  much  beyond  the  time  which  is  usual  on  a first 
interview. 

Having  finally  completed  it,  my  next  object  was  to  find  the  mer- 
chant to  whom  I had  a letter  of  introduction,  and  with  whom  L expect- 
ed to  transact  my  business.  I found  him  to  be,  as  he  had  been  repre- 
sented to  me,  a modest,  unassuming  man,  and  with  much  decision  of 
character.  He  at  once  made  me  a proposal  for  my  brandy  and  wine, 
which  appeared  to  be  very  fair,  offering  to  pay  me  in  wheat  and  rice, 
at  the  current  price.  This  I promised  to  take  into  consideration,  and 


PROCEEDINGS  AT  T REX I LEO. 


355 


to  give  an  answer  next  miming.  1 then  sought  the  family  of  Lynch 
to  whom  1 had  a letter  of  introduction,  from  one  of  the  r connections 
in  Lima.  This  is  a family,  of  Irish  descent,  who  inherited  a very 
large  landed  estate  in  this  vicinity.  I accepted  their  invitation  to  take 
a bed  at  their  house,  and  found  them  a very  amiable,  good-natured, 
and  pious  family  of  fanatics,  their  minds  entirely  subservient  to  the 
direction  of  crafty  priests,  and  their  bodies  actually  suffering  from 
the  rigid  observance  of  prescribed  fasts.  One  of  them,  who  had 
been  a merchant,  I consulted  on  the  proposal  made  for  my  cargo, 
which  he  considered  to  be  liberal,  and  advised  my  accepting  it,  which 
I did  accordingly.  As  the  proceeds  of  my  cargo  from  Pisco  would 
not  be  sufficient  to  lade  more  than  half  the  ship  with  wheat  and  rice, 
I proposed  taking  freight,  and  soon  had  offered,  at  a high  rate,  more 
than  sufficient  to  compleie  the  lading  of  the  ship. 

Having  disposed  of  the  cargo,  contracted  for  another,  and  engaged 
a person  to  provide  the  launches,  the  launchmen,  arid  the  tascaros,  or 
men  who  take  the  cargo  on  their  shoulders,  and  transport  it  from  the 
launches  to  the  beach,  I returned  to  the  ship  the  third  day  after  leav- 
ing her,  and  immediately  set  about  discharging  and  receiving  cargo 
at  the  same  time.  We  soon  perceived  that  the  roadstead  of  Guan- 
chaca  was  a most  uncomfortable  place  for  a ship  to  lade.  The  dis- 
tance at  which  it  was  necessary  to  anchor  the  ship  from  the  landing, 
the  slow  process  of  loading  and  unloading  the  launches  through  the 
surf,  and  the  three  days,  at  every'  full  and  change  of  the  moon,  when 
the  surf  was  so  much  increased  as  to  cut  off  all  communication  be- 
tween the  ship  and  the  shore,  combined  to  call  into  requisition  our 
whole  stock  of  patience.  We  had  been  industriously  engaged  about 
ten  days,  had  delivered  about  half  our  cargo,  and  received  on  board 
upwards  of  a thousand  bags  of  wheat,  when  the  cable  parted,  and  the 
current  setting  to  leeward,  carried  us  some  way  from  the  anchorage, 
before  we  perceived  ourselves  drifting.  We  had,  therefore,  no  other 
resource,  than  to  make  sail,  and  stand  out  to  sea  so  far,  as  to  secure 
a prospect  of  reaching  our  anchorage  early  in  the  morning.  What 
rendered  this  business  particularly  onerous,  was  the  circumstance, 
that,  at  the  time  of  parting  the  cable,  Mr.  Pinkham,  and  half  trie 
crew,  were  ashore  on  duty. 

As  we  approached  the  Ian  I,  next  morning,  we  saw  a vessel  mak 


SEVENTH  VOYAGE. 


MbO 

mg  directly  for  us  ; and  which,  on  coming  near,  proved  to  be  the 
Chilian  brig  of  war  Galvarino.  It  was  now  evident,  that  I should 
soon  know  if  he  would  act  in  conformity  with  the  tenor  of  the  pro- 
clamation of  blockade.  Accordingly,  when  within  hail,  he  inquired, 
What  ship?  Answer;  The  Beaver.  Question;  Wlat  are  you 
doing  here,  sir  ? Answer;  Loading  with  wheat.  O,  you  arc,  I am 
glad  to  hear  it ; you  are  a good  prize.  Answer  ; Stop  until  I am 
fully  loaded,  and  I shall  then  be  a better  prize.  He  then  sent  his  boat, 
and  requested  me  to  come  on' board  with  my  papers,  which  1 com- 
plied with,  and  was  treated  with  great  civility  by  Captain  Spry,  with 
whom  1 had  become  acquainted  at  Valparaiso.  After  half  an  hour’s 
conversation,  he  became  convinced  that  he  had  better  not  molest  me; 
he  therefore,  after  endorsing  my  register,  and  returning  me  on  board 
the  Beaver,  pursued  his  course,  and  left  me  at  liberty  to  pursue  mine. 

Having  thus  fairly  tested  the  degree  of  molestation  to  be  appre- 
hended from  the  Chilian  cruisers,  my  confidence  in  the  success  of 
rny  voyage  was  greatly  increased.  But  the  circumstance  that  had  in- 
spired me  with  confidence  had  entirely  annihilated  that  of  the  freighters. 
Having  waited  a considerable  time,  after  coming  to  anchor,  for  the 
return  of  the  officer  and  men  who  had  been  left  ashore,  without  see- 
ing any  thing  of  them,  I was  entirely  at  a loss  how  to  account  for  it. 
But,  as  it  did  not  occur  to  me  that  they  could  suspect  me  of  treachery, 
I had  no  apprehension  for  my  men,  and  therefore  despatched  the  sec- 
ond mate  and  four  hands  to  ascertain  what  had  become  of  the  first. 
These,  on  landing,  were  immediately  taken  into  custody  of  the  mili- 
tary, preparatory  to  being  interrogated  ; and  thus  was  I left,  in  an  open 
roadstead,  without  an  officer,  and  with  only  six  men,  until  the  next 
day,  when  they  were  permitted  to  return.  The  answer  1 gave  to 
Captain  Spry,  and  which  they  ascertained  by  interrogating  the  sailors, 
was  construed  into  an  intent  of  giving  the  cargo  to  the  enemy,  when 
the  lading  should  be  completed  ; and  was  such  confirmation  of  their 
suspicions,  that  those  who  had  engaged  to  freight  now  declined  doing 
so;  and  those  who  .>c.J  ireigiit  on  boaid  Vi  rf  desirous, of  taking  it.' 
As  this  was  out  of  the  question,  and  as  it  wsu  evident  no  more  freiglr 
could  be.  obtained  here,  1 determined  to  proceed  to  Malabrigo,  aiv 
take  on  board  what  I knew  to  be  there  ready,  on  ship’s  account,  am 
any  freight  that  might  offer. 


RETUItlf  TO  CALLAO. 


357 


On  anchoring  at  Malabrigo,  in  the  vicinity  of  which  is  the  town  of 
San  Pedro,  l had  soon  a number  of  applications  to  freight,  and  con’ 
traded  fora  considerable  quantity,  to  be  taken  on  board  at  Pacasma 
yo.  The  first  freighters  having  gradually  recovered  their  senses 
came  to  us  in  the  hope  of  persuading  us  to  return,  and  fulfil  the  en 
gagement  which  they  had  broken.  But  their  application  was  too  late 
and  they  were  greatly  disappointed,  when  they  discovered  that  hav- 
ing contracted  for  other  freight,  sufficient  to  fill  up  the  ship,  it  was 
not  iu  my  power  to  take  theirs. 

Having  broken  the  stream  anchor  at  Guanchaca,  and  lost  a bower 
and  kedge  at  Malabrigo,  our  only  dependence  now  for  completing  our 
landing  at  Pacusmayo,  was  on  the  only  remaining  bower  anchor. 
This,  however,  served  us;  and  on  the  19th  of  May,  having  a cargo 
on  board  exceeding  in  weight  thirteen  thousand  quintals,  which 
brought  the  ship’s  ehainwafes  almost  even  with  the  water,  we  sailed 
for  Callao.  As  I had  been  able  to  obtain  no  information  from  Callao 
since  I left  it,  I was  very  anxious  to  know  the  state  of  affairs  before 
venturing  too  near.  I therefore  looked  in  to  Guacho,  wriere,  perceiv- 
ing a brig  at  anchor,  with  English  colors  displayed,  I sen  the  boat  to 
obtain  information,  while  the  ship  was  lying  to.  On  returning,  I wa„ 
rejoiced  to  learn,  that  the  Chilian  squadron  had  left  the  hay  of  Callao 
nearly  a month  since,  and  that  there  was  no  impediment  to  entering 
there.  This  brig  (the  Columbia)  had  been  boarded  a lew  days  before 
by  the  Macedonian  frigate,  Captain  Downes,  who  inquired  if  he  had 
seen  the  Beaver.  Having  run  along  shore  to  the  northward,  while 
the  Beaver  was  standing  out  to  sea,  to  the  south  westward,  we  misled 
seeing  each  other,  to  my  great  regret,  as  I had  no  doubt  there  weie 
letters  on  board  from  my  family,  and  iiad  been  anticipating  their 
receipt,  with  all  those  feelings  of  hope  and  anxiety,  so  easily  con- 
ceived by  those  who  love  their  homes,  and  who  have  had  no  tidings 
for  so  long  a period. 

We  now  made  sail  on  the  Beaver,  and,  at  the  expiration  of  two 
days,  were,  early  in  the  morning  of  the  9th  of  June,  at  the  entrance 
cf  the  bay  of  Callao,  with  light  airs  off  shore.  At  ten  o’clock,  we 
perceived  a large  and  a small  vessel  coming  out  of  the  bay,  under  & 
crowd  of  sail,  and  steering  directly  for  us,  On  coming  up,  they 
proved  to  be  the  Esmeralda  frigate  and  Pezuela  brig  of  war,  sent 


SEVENTH  VOTAGB- 


35S 

out  to  asee  ain  who  we  were.  Satisfied  on  this  point,  we  returned 
into  port  together,  and  came  to  anchor  nearly  at  the  same  time. 

Of  the  places  I had  visited,  Guanchaca  is  nothing  else  than  a col- 
lection of  wigwams  or  Indian  huts,  built  of  mud,  mats,  and  bamboo  : 
and  of  a description  that  would  be  untenantable  in  a country  subject  to 
an  ordinary  course  of  rainy  weather.  In  the  season  for  taking  the 
sea-baths  it  is  the  resort  of  the  people  of  Truxillo,  as  Callao  is  for 
the  people  of  Lima,  at  the  same  season.  It  contains  about  five  hun- 
dred inhabitants,  all  Indians,  excepting  the  Curate,  who  is  of  Euro- 
pean descent,  and  who  appears  to  possess  the  address  of  keeping 
them  not  less  in  the  fear  of  himself  than  in  the  fear  of  God. 

Truxillo  ts  two  leagues  southwest  from  this  village,  and  on  the 
road  to  it  we  passed  the  ruins  of  a very  large  Indian  city,  which  was 
the  summer  resort,  or  Bairn,  of  the  celebrated  chief  Atahualpa. 
From  the  ruins  of  this  ancient  city,  a great  amount  of  gold  has,  with- 
in a few  years,  been  dug  ; and  also  a great  number  of  earthen  ves- 
sels, of  various  forms,  called  by  the  Spaniards  guaqueros , and  which 
afford  evidence  of  a degree  of  perfection  in  the  manufacture  of  pot- 
tery, which  the  present  race  of  Indians  do  not  possess.  The  land 
immediately  in  the  vicinity  of  the  sea,  presents  a most  sterile  and  for- 
bidding appearance  ; scarce  a tree,  a shrub,  or  any  verdure  to  be 
seen ; but  a few  leagues  in  the  interior  there  is  the  most  luxuriant 
vegetation. 

Truxillo  is  a very  ancient  city,  having  been  founded  by  that  cele- 
brated devastator  of  the  Indian  race,  Pizarro,  in  the  year  1535.  It  is 
situated  in  the  valley  of  Chimo,  on  a very  sandy  soil,  is  surrounded 
by  a brick  wall,  is  regularly  built,  (the  streets  intersecting  each  other 
at  right  angles,)  and  is,  in  fact,  Lima  in  miniature.  The  inhabitants 
of  this  city  consist  of  Spaniards,  Indians,  and  the  various  grades  and 
shades  peculiar  to  a population  of  European  and  Indian,  and  amount 
together  to  about  ten  thousand.  It  formerly  enjoyed  a lucrative  com- 
merce with  Porto  Bello  and  Carthagena,  by  the  way  of  Santa  Fe  and 
Quito  ; £md  to  this,  it  was  indebted  for  its  elevation  and  consequence, 
as  it  is  to  the  loss  of  it,  for  its  present  poor,  dull  and  gloomy  state. 

The  estates  in  its  neighborhood  might  be  made  very  productive  in 
wheat,  rice,  and  sugar,  if  there  was  any  encouragement  given  to 
agriculture  ; hut  while  the  cultivator  bar  no  other  prospect  before 


RELIGIOUS  OBSERVANCES  AT  TRUXILLO. 


359 


mm.  the  75  dbs.t.  of  seeing  his  produce  lot  on  his  hands,  he  vvill  nat- 
urally fee  cautious  to  cultivate  no  more  than  is  sufficient  for  his  own 
consumption.  Not  less  productive  might  the  estates  be,  which  are 
situated  in  the  mountains,  for  rearing  cattle  and  sheep,  if  there  existed 
any  encouragement.  As  an  instance,  the  family  of  Lynch,  alread* 
mentioned,  possess  an  estate  on  which  are  maintained  sixty  thousan 
sheep,  which  produce  wool  of  a very  tolerable  quality,  but,  owing  to 
there  being  no  export  for  it,  much  is  wasted  ; and  what  is  sold  pro 
duces  only  two  dollars  the  arroba  ; so  that  the  estate,  which,  if  .ora 
merce  was  encouraged,  would  yield  a princely  revenue,  barely  su  - 
lices  for  the  maintenance  of  their  family,  in  a very  economical  sty  e 
of  living. 

If  I was  struck  with  the  attention  given  to  the  affairs  of  religion  af 
Lima,  much  more  was  this  the  case  at  Truxillo  ; for  this  as  much 
surpasses  the  other  in  private,  as  well  as  public  devotional  obser- 
vances, as  the  former  appeared  to  me  to  exceed  every  other  place  I 
had  ever  before  visited.  Indeed,  the  priests  may  truly  be  said  to  live 
in  clover  at  Truxillo  ; the  whole  business  of  the  city  is  so  entirely 
religion,  that  it  may  very  properly  be  viewed  as  a great  cloister.  It 
often  occurs,  that  many  of  the  class  called  merchants,  and  probably 
others,  are  invisible  at  the  ordinary  hours  of  business;  and  on  inquiry 
as  to  the  cause,  it  appears  that  they  are  at  their  devotions,  in  which 
they  must  not  be  disturbed.  Some  families  are  said  to  spend  eight 
hours  of  the  day  in  prayer.  AH  this  show  of  sanctity  would  be  very 
laudable,  if  it  made  them  better,  or  more  honest  men  ; but  it  bad  a 
tendency  to  put  me  more  on  my  guard. 

Although  others  would  have  given  me  from  ten  to  fifteen  percent 
more  for  cargo,  and  would  have  sold  wheat  for  as  much  less,  yet  I 
preferred  contracting  with  the  man  to  whom  I was  recommended,  for 
a small  advantage,  rather  than  with  any  other  of  this  pious  commu- 
nity, for  a great  one.  But  all  my  caution  was,  unfortunately,  of  no 
avail.  One  of  these  inveterate  praying  men,  who  was  engaged  by 
my  correspondent  to  receive  and  deliver  the  cargo,  and  to  supply  the 
ship,  made  such  enormous  charges,  and  was  guilty  of  such  frauds, 
that  I refused  to  settle  his  account  ; and  it  was  left  to  arbitration  a* 
Lima,  the  result  of  which  I have  neve-  mown,  further  than  that 
t;c^er  received  any  return  of  the  a mourn  l left  wherewith  to  pay  the 
award. 


360 


SEVENTH  VOYAGE. 


Malabrigo  is,  as  the  name  indicates,  a bad  shelter,  and  is  important 
only  to  the  cultivators  of  the  valley  of  Chacama,  for  the  shipment  of 
their  produce.  Pacasmayo  is  only  a collection  of  a few  Indian  huts, 
near  to  a river  of  that  name,  and  is  the  place  of  embarkation  of  San 
Pedro,  which  is  distant  from  it  about  two  leagues,  over  a very  sandy 
road  ; some  of  the  hills  of  which  resemble  very  high  snow-drifts. 
San  Pedro,  excepting  its  church,  and  the  residences  of  half  a dozen 
European  families,  is  little  better  than  a collection  of  wigwams. 
The  curate,  as  in  all  such  villages,  is  omnipotent;  and  for  a poor 
Indian,  within  the  jurisdiction  of  bis  curacy,  to  kill  a calf,  a hog,  ora 
sheep,  without  sending  him  a portion,  would  be  considered  a sin,  re- 
quiring more  prompt  atonement  than  that  of  the  transgression -of  any 
rule  of  the  Decalogue.  The  inhabitants,  with  the  above  exception, 
arc  Creoles  and  Indians.  Some  families  of  the  former  have  acquired 
fortunes,  in  defiance  of  the  obstacles  presented  by  the  bad  policy  of  the 
government.  The  jealousy  which  exists  between  these  and  the  Eu- 
ropeans, is  not  less  than  that  which  formerly  prevailed  at  St.  Domingo, 
between  the  whites  and  mulattoes.  Hence  the  Creoles  were  perceived 
to  be  ardent  friends  of  the  revolution,  and  are  less  reserved  in  evinc- 
ing this  disposition  than  any  other  people  on  this  coast  whom  I have 
visited.  To  promote  these  views,  and  add  to  their  slock  of  political 
knowledge,  I gave  them  a large  file  of  Chili  gazettes,  which  was  a 
most  acceptable  present  to  them. 

Our  safe  return  to  Callao,  with  so  large  a cargo  of  wheat  and  rice, 
was  an  event  no  less  auspicious  for  the  people  of  Lima,  than  for  our- 
selves. Precisely  three  months  had  elapsed  since  our  departure  from 
Callao;  and,  by  the  successful  accomplishment  of  our  voyage,  we 
had  demonstrated  to  the  Viceroy,  that  he  had  no  cause  to  apprehend 
the  supply  of  bread-stuff's  being  cut  off  by  means  of  a Chilian  block- 
ade ; at  the  same  time,  we  had  inspired  a confidence  in  our  good 
faith,  which  was  before  greatly  wanting.  The  earnings  of  the  ship 
during  this  period  exceeded  twenty  thousand  dollars,  payable  imme- 
diately on  landing  the  cargo.  My  reception  by  the  Viceroy  was  of 
the  most  flattering  description.  He  appeared  now,  for  the  first  time, 
to  be  aware  of  the  great  advantage  derivable  from  neutral  commerce; 
complimented  me  on  the  boldness  manifested  in  disregarding  Lord 
Cochrane’s  proclamation  of  blockade,  and  declared  his  readiness 
now  to  give  me  a license  to  go  to  any  part  of  the  coast  I pleased. 


SECOND  VOYAGE  TO  PISCO. 


36 1 

l had  now  as  many  men  at  work  in  unlading  the  ship  as  cou\  J be 
advantageously  employed,  as  it  was  important  to  lose  no  time  before 
being  away  again.  In  the  mean  time,  canvassing  several  plans  for 
tile  next  operation,  the  most  eligible  appeared  to  me  to  be  that  of  in- 
troducing a cargo  of  brandy  into  Lima  before  the  renewal  of  the 
blockade,  presuming  that  immediately  after  that  event,  it  would  rise 
greatly  in  value.  This  being  determined  on,  an  express  was  sent  ofT 
to  Pisco  to  buy  the  brandy,  and  have  it  ready  for  the  ship  as  soon  as 
she  should  arrive.  Having  accomplished  unlading  and  ballasting  the 
ship,  we  sailed  again  for  Pisco,  on  the  25th  of  June,  and  arrived  there 
on  the  1st  day  of  July.  Here  we  found  everything  in  readiness  for 
lading  the  ship  in  as  short  a time  as  possible  ; and  having  taken  on 
board  four  thousand  jars  of  brandy,  and  a deck-load  of  wheat,  we 
sailed  from  Pisco  on  the  evening  of  the  30th  of  July,  and  on  the 
1st  of  August  again  entered,  unmolested,  the  port  of  Callao. 

The  Captain  of  the  port,  on  making  his  accustomed  visit  on  our 
arrival,  desired  me  to  go  on  shore  until  permission  was  obtained  first 
from  Lima.  As  this  seemed  to  me  a regulation  for  the  foreigners,  which 
the  Viceroy  could  not  intend  to  apply  to  those  who  were  engaged 
coastwise,  I told  him  I should  not  comply  with  it.  He  then  said  he 
should  put  me  under  arrest,  if  I came  on  shore  before  obtaining 
the  requisite  permission.  Accordingly,  as  soon  as  I had  breakfasted, 
the  boat  was  manned,  and  vve  rowed  to  the  landing  guarded  by  the  sen- 
try, who  called  out  to  us  to  keep  off ; but,  simultaneously  with  the 
order,  I had  landed  and  sent  my  boat  away.  The  sentry  then 
arrested  and  conducted  me  within  the  walls  of  the  castle.  It  was 
soon  rumored,  that  the  Captain  of  the  Beaver  was  in  the  castle  of 
Callao,  and  several  officers  of  the  navy  came  to  see  me,  kindly  prom- 
ising to  obtain  leave  for  me  to  go  on  board  my  ship  ; and  inviting  me 
to  go  and  dine  with  them  ; but  I declined  leaving  the  castle  until  an 
order  should  come  for  my  release,  from  the  Viceroy.  This  order 
was  given  as  soon  as  my  arrest  was  known  to  him,  and  I was  re- 
leased, after  having  passed  nearly  the  whole  day  in  the  castle.  The 
effect  was  what  l intended  and  expected  it  would  be,  — a general 
order  for  all  masters  of  foreign  vessels,  sailing  coastwise,  with  the 
Viceroy’s  license,  to  be  permitted  to  go  on  shore,  and  if  desired,  to 
proceed  to  Lima,  without  waiting  for  a special  permission. 

30 


362 


SEVENTH  VOYAGE. 


A circumstance  which  occurred  on  this  voyage,  demonstrates  tho 
extreme  credulity  of  this  people,  not  less  than  the  ideas  they  enter- 
tain of  our  morality  and  humanity.  A Spanish  brig,  called  the  Vol- 
ador,  and  owned  in  Lima,  had  been  loading  at  Pisco  with  brandy  and 
wheat,  at  the  same  time  with  the  Beaver.  This  brig  having  accom- 
plished  her  lading,  and  having  several  passengers  on  board,  sailed 
for  Callao,  about  four  hours  before  us.  , At  sunset  of  the  day 
of  departure,  we  perceived  that  we  were  coming  up  fast  with  her, 
and  supposed  we  passed  her  in  the  night.  The  following  night  we 
anchored  at  Callao,  and  the  next  day  were  momentarily  expecting 
the  arrival  of  the  Volador,  as  eight  or  ten  hours,  at  the  most,  ought 
to  be  the  only  difference  in  our  passages  ; but  she  did  not  arrive  that 
day.  Another,  and  yet  another  day  passed,  and  no  appearance  of 
the  Volador.  The  owner,  and  those  who  had  friends  on  board,  had 
now  Become  very  justly  alarmed,  and  my  replies  to  their  earnest 
inquiries,  as  to  when  we  last  saw  her,  or  what  I supposed  could 
have  become  of  her,  had  no  tendency  to  lessen  them.  Her  disap- 
pearance was  enveloped  in  a mystery,  which  has  never  been  un- 
ravelled. There  was  not  known,  or  believed  to  be,  any  cruiser  near, 
by  which  she  might  have  been  captured  ; the  weather  had  been  very 
fine,  the  sea  very  smooth.  Had  she  foundered  ? had  she  taken  fire 
and  burnt  up  ? In  either  of  these  events  it  would  he  strange,  that  not 
one  individual  should  be  saved  in  so  pacific  a sea,  and  still  more 
strange,  that  not  a boat,  a spar,  an  oar,  no  trace  of  any  thing  belong- 
ing to  this  vessel,  should  ever  have  been  discovered  ; yet  such  was 
the  fact,  and  to  this  dav,  I believe,  it  has  never  been, known  what 
became  of  tier. 


CHAPTER  XXXIV. 


SuBpectedof  sinking  the  Yolador — Crew  of  the  Beaver  examined  — Sell  the  Cargc 

— Charter  the  Ship — Sail  for  Guacho  — Arrival  of  the  Chilian  Fleet  — Guacho 
and  its  manufactures — Sail  for  La  Barranca — Stupid  Pilot  — Return  to  Guacho  — 
Sail  for  Samauco  Bay  — Observations  thereon — Bad  Calculation  of  the  Charterer 

— Commandante  and  his  Daughters  — Arrival  at  Pacasmayo — Sail  for  Chili  — 
Boarded  by  the  San  Martin  — Arrival  at  Valparaiso. 


arriving  at  Callao  from  Pisco,  having 
no  immediate  business  at  Lima,  I remained  on 
board  ship  a fortnight,  while  the  cargo  was  dis- 
charging. When  this  was  accomplished  I went 
to  the  city.  On  walking  out  soon  after  being  set 
down  at  my  lodgings,  I perceived  myself  to  be 
an  object  of  unusual  attention  ; and  heard  the 
remarks,  “ There  he  goes,”  — “ That’s  the  fel- 
low ; ” and  saw  people  pointing  at  me.  Passing  bv 
the  shop  of  an  acquaintance,  he  expressed  surprise  at 
my  release  from  the  Castle  of  Callao,  if  the  rumors 
relating  to  me  were  true.  On  asking  an  explanation, 
he  told  me  the  report  was  current,  and  generally  believed, 
that  I had  run  down  the  Volador,  and  drowned  the  crew  and 
passengers;  that  1 had  been  incarcerated  for  it  in  the  castle  ; 
and  that  the  people  were  astonished  to  see  me  at  liberty  and  walking 
the  streets  of  Lima. 


It  appeared,  that  a number  of  circumstances,  trifling  in  themselves, 
had  combined  to  favor  this  idea,  in  a populace  jealous  of  strangers, 
and  generally  very  ignorant.  Among  them,  my  having  remained  a 
fortnight  at  Callao  after  arriving;  my  being  arrested  by  a sentry,  and 
conducted  to  the  castle;  my  having  remained  there,  as  was  supposed, 
while  actually  on  board  ship;  and  the  circumstance  of  their  enter 


SEVENTH  VOYAGE. 


taining  none  too  good  opinion  of  me  to  doubt  my  readiness  to  destroy 
a vessel  and  crew,  in  revenge  fur  the  ill  treatment  I hud  received  in 
the  country,  were  sufficient  materials  wherewith  to  fabricate  the  story 
which  was  in  circulation  in  the  city. 

It  was  now  obvious,  that  my  personal  safety  required  that  some  im- 
mediate and  efficacious  measures  should  be' adopted  to  undeceive  the 
populace ; as  I perceived  the  story  to  be  believed,  not  by  the  mob 
alone,  but  by  persons  who  ought  to  have  known  better.  I therefore 
waited  on  the  Viceroy  for  this  purpose,  and  requested  that  an  investi- 
gation might  bo  made  into  this  business  by  his  order.  He  had  heard 
of  such  report,  and  ridiculed  it ; nevertheless,  he  thought  my  safety 
would  be  better  secured  by  an  inquiry.  Accordingly,  three  officers 
of  the  lloyal  navy  were  appointed  to  examine  as  many  of  the  Bea- 
ver’s crew,  touching  this  business,  as  they  saw  proper.  It  happened, 
fortunately,  that  among  my  seamen  was  a Spaniard  belonging  to 
Lima  ; and  this  man’s  testimony,  corroborating  that  of  the  others,  was 
of  great  importance.  They  were  not  long  in  coming  lo  a, favorable 
result,  exonerating  me  from  all  blame  or  participation  in  the  loss; 
and  this  decision  was  sent  to  the  Viceroy,  who  caused  it  to  be  gener- 
ally known.  After  this,  no  doubt  existed  in  the  minds  of  the  respec- 
table part  of  the  community,  of  my  innocence  ; but  the  unfavorable 
impression  was  never  entirely  obliterated  with  the  lower  class. 

I had  contemplated  landing  only  one  half  the  cargo  at  Callao,  and 
proceeding  down  the  coast  with  the  other  half,  which  would  produce 
enough  to  laoe  the  ship  with  wheat;  but  having  ascertained  that  a 
supply  had  already  been  sent  there,  I concluded  to  give  up  this  plan, 
and  negociated  with  a house  in  Lima  to  take  the  whole  cargo,  at  a 
profit  of  about  ten  thousand  dollars.  It  had  been  observed,  that,  lat- 
terly, much  brandy  had  been  delivered  from  the  pumps ; and  we 
were  prepared  to  find  great  breakage,  although  there  had  been  no 
rough  weather  to  produce  it.  But  it  was  evident,  that  the  weight  was 
too  great,  and  that,  by  it,  many  of  the  lower  jars  had  been  crushed. 
On  completing  (he  unlading,  we  found  that  one  hundred  and  fifty  jars 
had  been  broken;  notwithstanding  which,  the  operation  proved  to  be 
a very  productive  one. 

It  was  now  evident,  from  the  accounts  from  Valparaiso,  that  much 
time  would  not  elapse  before  the  reappearance  of  the  Chilian  fleet 


A NEW  ENGAGEMENT. 


365 


and  the  renevva  of  the  blockade.  The  great  importance  of  being 
away,  therefore,  before  this  event,  was  obvious;  and  any  delay,  in 
deciding  what  course  to  pursue,  might  be  attended  with  increased 
loss  of  time,  if  nothing  worse.  Although  the  exposed  situation  in 
which  a ship  lies  at  Guanchaca  and  Pacasmayo,  and  the  tedious  pro- 
cess of  conveying  the  cargo  through  the  surf  to  the  launches,  on  the 
shoulders  of  men,  cause  the  lading  of  a ship  at  these  places  to  be  a 
very  laborious  and  tedious  undertaking,  yet  the  freight  to  be  earned 
was  in  due  proportion  to  this  trouble  ; and  perceiving  nothing  that 
presented  so  fair  a prospect,  I determined  on  pursuing  it,  and  imme- 
diately despatched  an  express  to  those  places,  to  have  a cargo  pre- 
pared against  my  arrival  there. 

This  measure  had  scarcely  been  taken,  when  I had  a proposal  for 
the  charter  of  the  ship,  which  offered  advantages  so  much  greater 
than  the  other,  that  I immediately  closed  with  it,  and  sent  off  a second 
express  to  countermand  the  first  order.  This  charter  stipulated  for 
the  ship  to  proceed  to  three  ports  to  leeward,  and  there  lade  with  the 
produce  of  the  country,  and  proceed  with  it  to  Valparaiso  ; there 
deliver  it,  and  relade  with  wheat  for  Callao.  For  the  performance  of 
this  service,  I was  to  receive  forty  thousand  dollars,  limited  to  be  per- 
formed in  four  months  ; and  if,  from  any  cause  on  the  part  of  the 
charterer,  that  time  was  exceeded,  he  was  to  pay  at  the  rate  of  six 
thousand  dollars  per  month.  In  addition  to  the  certainty,  which  this 
contract  presented,  was  the  great  additional  security  resulting  from 
its  being  for  English  account ; as  the  commanders  and  officers  of  the 
Chilian  fleet  were  almost  exclusively  English,  and  they  had' given  the 
most  unequivocal  evidence  of  a disposition  to  view,  with  indulgence, 
the  same  transaction  under  their  native  flag,  which  was  denounced  as 
c&nfiscation  under  the  American. 

Having  agreed  with  the  charterer,  that  the  ship  should  be  despatch- 
ed without  delay,  it  being  even  more  for  his  interest  than  mine  that 
no  time  should  be  lost,  and  the  blockade  being  momentarily  expected, 
my  impatience  became  so  great,  when  the  month  of  September  was 
approaching  its  close,  that  it  was  agreed  I should  proceed  to  Guacho, 
and  there  wait  for  him  to  join  the  ship.  Accordingly,  late  in  the 
afternoon  of  the  28th  of  September,  we  sailed  from  Callao  ; and,  at 
sunset,  rs  we  v ere  passing  the  Pescadores,  on  the  north  side  of  the 
31* 


366 


SEVENTH  VOYAGE. 


bay,  we  sa  v the  Isabella,  Lord  Cochrane’s  ship,  entering  near  San 
Lorenzo,  on  the  south  side.  This  was,  indeed,  a fortunate  escape  ; 
as  a delay  c only  an  hour  would  have  closed  the  door  upon  us.  The 
Pallas,  an  American  brig,  which  sailed  with  us,  bound  to  windward, 
was  detained,  and  sent  to  Valparaiso. 

The  day  after  leaving  Callao,  we  anchored  at  Guac.ho,  and  in  the 
evening,  a squad  of  soldiers  were  sent  to  the  beach,  intended  for  the 
two-fold  advantage  of  protecting  the  ship,  and  pieventing  smuggling; 
but  they  had  no  boat  to  bring  them  on  board,  and  kept  blowing  horns 
and  hallooing  for  ours,  till  they  were  satisfied  we  should  not  send  for 
them,  and  they  then  marched  back  again  to  their  quarters.  We 
found,  on  our  arrival,  a quantity  of  sugar  ready  to  he  taken  on  board  ; 
but  with  the  bad  management,  evinced  from  the  day  of  the  contract, 
no  license  had  been  provided  for  embarking  it,  and  another  week 
was  lost  before  it  was  received  from  Lima.  As  soon  as  the  license 
was  received,  the  sugar  was  embarked,  and  we  sailed  for  La  Bar- 
ranca, to  take  on  board  a quantity  which  was  there  ready  for  delivery. 

Guacho  is  a small  village,  principally  of  Indians,  whose  employ- 
ment is  almost  exclusively  making  straw  hats  and  cigar-cases  ; in 
which  manufacture  they  have  arrived  at  a degree  of  skill,  so  much 
surpassing  all  others,  that  their  cigar-cases,  of  the  finest  quality,  are 
often  sold  for  a doubloon,  and  their  hats  are  proportionally  prized. 
As  La  Barranca  is  an  obscure  place,  where,  probably,  the  American 
flag  had  never  before  been  displayed,  that  no  time  might  be  lost,  I, 
for  the  first  time  since  navigating  the  coast,  took  a pilot ; but  I had 
better  been  without  him,  as,  in  the  true  bungling  style  of  his  country- 
men, he  brought  the  ship  to,  at  least  a mile  further  off  than  was 
requisite.  Having  dismissed  him,  and  taken  soundings  of  the  harbor, 
we  perceived  also,  by  the  breaking  of  our  bower  anchor,  on  heaving 
up,  that  he  had  anchored  us  on  foul  ground.  We  ran  in  to  about 
half  a mile  from  the  beach,  whence  our  cargo  was  to  be  taken,  and 
anchored  again  in  a snug  harbor,  which  is  at  an  equal  distance  from 
La  Barranca  and  Supa,  and  serves  as  the  port  of  embarcation  for 
each. 

The  lading  of  cargo,  at  this  place,  occupied  about  a week,  at 
which  time,  having  received  a letter  from  the  charterer,  dated  at 
Lima,  without  stating  when  he  should  leave  there  on  his  way  to  join 


ANCHOR  NEAR  THE  RIVER  HUAMBACHO. 


367 


the  ship,  I became  very  impatient ; and  with  a view  of  saving  time, 
by  lessening  the  distance  between  us,  returned  again  to  Guacho,  and 
informed  him  of  this  movement  by  an  express.  Day  after  day  passed 
away,  while  we  were  lying  idle  at  this  place.  At  length,  on  the  25th 
of  October,  he  arrived  in  a small  vessel,  laden  with  cocoa,  indigo, 
his  baggage,  &c.  The  policy  of  such  solicitude  and  such  impatience, 
on  my  part,  at  our  slow  progress,  while  the  earnings  of  the  ship  were 
so  great,  may  not  be  perceived  ; but  the  inference  was  clear,  that  the 
person  who  managed  his  own  affairs  so  badly,  could  not  so  well  be 
confided  in  for  the  fulfilment  of  his  engagements  to  others ; and 
hence  my  dissatisfaction  was  manifested,  occasionally,  in  terms  less 
mild  and  conciliating  than  was  becoming.  The  arrival  of  the  Eng- 
lish brig  Catalina,  destined  to  lade  with  sugar  for  Valparaiso,  and  the 
information  received  by  her,  that  the  English  ship  Inspector  had  gone 
to  Canete  for  a like  purpose,  and  for  the  same  destination,  tended 
greatly  to  diminish  the  prospect  of  advantage,  which  was  promised  at 
the  early  stage  of  the  enterprise. 

The  cargo  of  the  little  vessel  having  been  taken  on  board  the 
Beaver,  with  all  possible  despatch,  we  sailed,  on  the  evening  of  the 
same  day,  for  Samanco  Bay.  The  second  day  after  leaving  Guacho, 
we  anchored  in  a bay  in  latitude  9°  17’,  which  I supposed  to  be 
Samancho  Bay,  but,  as  we  could  discover  nothing  of  the  river 
Huambacho,  I presumed  that  we  were  mistaken.  I therefore  de- 
spatched a boat,  early  in  the  morning,  to  the  northern  extremity  of 
this  bay,  to  look  for  the  river  in  question.  At  noon  the  boat  returned, 
and  the  officer  reported,  that  the  bay  and  river  were  about  five  miles 
to  the  north  of  us.  Immediately,  therefore,  we  weighed  anchor,  and, 
[ roceeding  to  this  bay,  came  to  anchor  again  in  a snug  cove  near  the 
river  Huambacho. 

The  ship  was  no  sooner  anchored,  than  several  horsemen  made 
their  appearance  on  the  beach.  The  charterer  went  immediately  to 
them,  and  ascertained  that  they  were  the  persons  charged  with  the 
delivery  of  the  cotton  which  was  to  be  taken  on  board,  and  which, 
instead  of  being  already  prepared  for  us,  it  appeared  would  not  be 
ready  for  several  weeks.  If  there  had  been  no  prospect  of  compe- 
tition at  Valparaiso,  the  expense  of  the  ship  alone  ought  to  have  dis- 
touraged  the  idea  of  waiting ; and  the  two  circumstances  combined 


368 


SEVENTH  VOYAGE. 


should  have  left  no  hesitation  in  the  decision  to  leave  the  cotton  and 
pursue  the  voyage  ; but  a strange  infatuation  seemed  to  blind  the 
charterer  to  the  ruinous  consequences  of  delay.  For  eight  hundred 
quintals  of  cotton,  value  five  thousand  and  six  hundred  dollars,  the 
ship  was  detained  a fortnight,  at  a certain  expense  of  three  thousand 
dollars,  and  the  difference  in  the  value  of  the  sugar  at  Valparaiso,  if 
the  other  vessel  should  arrive  there  before  us,  would  probably  not  be 
less  than  thirty  thousand  dollars;  but  with  obstinacy  and  stupidity  it 
was  in  vain  to  contend,  and,  in  the  annihilation  of  any  prospect  of  ad- 
vantage on  my  own  adventure,  I had  only  to  be  resigned.  At  length, 
after  the.  expiration  of  a fortnight,  the  cotton  had  been  taken  on 
board,  and  we  were  on  our  way  to  Pacasmayo,  the  last  port  of  our 
destination  on  this  coast. 

The  advantages,  which  Samanco  Bay  would  afford  to  a hostile 
squadron  in  these  seas  are  great;  until  forces  could  be  collected  from 
a distance,  they  might  lie  here  with  all  the  security,  that  they  would 
have  in  their  own  harbors.  The  facilities,  which  the  river  Huam* 
bacho  offers  for  wooding  and  watering  are  great,  as  the  boats  can 
enter  and  lade  without  any  difficulty.  The  town  of  Nepina  being  six 
leagues  distant,  it  might  be  ■ difficult  to  procure  cattle  and  domestic 
animals,  but  the  bay  abounds  with  fish,  fowl,  and  seal.  The  latitude 
of  this  bay  is  9°  12'.  Immediately  to  the  southward  of  it  is  a fine 
bay,  where  we  first  anchored  ; and  next,  northward,  is  the  very 
spacious  bay  of  Ferrol,  affording  a harbor  equally  safe,  and  the  pros- 
pect of  supplies  from  an  Indian  village  on  its  northern  shore. 

As  the-  Beaver  was  doubtless  the  first  foreign  ship  that  ever  had  a. 
royal  license  for  trading  coastwise,  as  she  was  a remarkably  fine 
ship,  had  beautiful  accommodations,  and  was  always  kept  in  the  neat- 
est order,  her  fame  along  the  coast  was  very  great.  And,  at  all  these 
small  places,  she  was  thronged  with  visitors,  men,  women,  and  chil- 
dren, who  came  from  many  miles  distant  to  see  the  ship,  and  who 
always  expressed  themselves  del ighted  with  (what  they  considered ) 
the  beauty  of  the  cabin  and  its  furniture,  the  whiteness  of  the  deck, 
and  the  attention  to  cleanliness  in  every  part.  The  Commandante 
of  La  Barranca  and  his  three  very  pretty  daughters,  from  eighteen 
twenty-four  years  old,  happened  to  be  on  board,  one  dry  , at  our  din- 
ner hour,  and  I invited  them  to  sit  down  with  us.  Their  awkward 


ARRIVE  AT  PACASMAYO. 


369 


mode  of  handling  the  tabie  utensils  was  evidence  that,  although  they 
were  people  of  the  first  respectability,  they  were  accustomed  to  live 
in  very  primitive  style,  being  evidently  entirely  unaccustomed  to  the 
refinements  of  such  superfluous  articles  as  plates,  knives  and  forks. 
They  endeavored,  however,  to  do  as  we  did  ; the  father  and  one  of  the 
daughters  succeeded  tolerably  well,  but  the  other  two  girls  seemed  to 
consider  a plate,  knife,  and  fork,  for  each,  to  be  needless.  They 
therefore  placed  a plate  between  them,  and,  one  of  them  taking  the 
knife  and  the  other  the  fork,  they  endeavored,  the  one  to  cut,  while 
the  oiner  held  the  meat  w»th  the  fork.  But  this  mode  of  proceeding 
did  not  succeed  ; the  beef  was  too  hard,  or  the  knife  was  too  dull,  oi 
there  was  a want  of  adroitness,  and  they  were  finally  compelled  to 
accept  the  aid  of  their  next  neighbor,  which  they  did  with  great  com- 
placency,— being  all  the  time  in  high  glee  at  this  novel  mode  of  tak- 
ing their  food.  The  Commandante  was  very  desirous  of  returning 
our  civility  by  giving  us  a dinner  at  his  house,  but  the  duties  of  the 
ship  would  not  allow  our  absence  for  a day,  and  we  declined  the 
honor,  although  the  young  ladies  earnestly  seconded  the  invitation. 
They  left  us,  as  did  all  our  visitors,  with  manifestations  of  pleasure 
and  gratification. 

Arriving  at  Pacasinayo,  I was  very  agreeably  disappointed  in  find- 
ing all  the  cargo  at  the  shore,  ready  to  be  taken  on  board,  and  a fair 
prospect  of  meeting  with  no  detention  at  this  disagreeable  anchorage. 
With  great  exertions,  the  last  of  the  cargo  was  received  on  board,  at 
the  expiration  of  a week  from  the  time  of  our  arrival,  and  on  Sunday, 
the  21st  of  November,  we  sailed  for  Valparaiso.  Thus,  on  the  day 
of  departure  from  the  Peruvian  coast,  were  expended  nearly  three 
months  of  the  four,  for  which  the  ship  was  chartered.  But  there  was 
a satisfaction  in  being  under  way,  and  in  the  consciousness  that  the 
business  must  progress,  which  I had  not  experienced  since  entering 
into  the  contract. 

While  pursuing  our  voyage  to  Valparaiso,  and  in  the  latitude  of 
22Q  and  longitude  91°  west,  we  fell  in  with  the  Chilian  ship  of  war 
San  Martin,  of  sixty-four  guns,  bearing  Admiral  Blanco’s  flag.  As 
he  approached,  he  fired  to  bring  us  to.  His  boat  with  a lieutenant 
then  boarded  us,  and  requested  me  to  go  on  board  with  my  papers 
This  I declined,  and  sent  them  by  Mr.  Pinkham,  with  my  compli- 


370 


SEVENTH  VOYAGE. 


merits  to  the  Admiral,  and  saying,  that  I never  left  my  ship  at  sea 
except  by  compulsion.  The  boat  soon  returned,  bringing  Mr.  Pink- 
ham,  and  a request  that  the  charterer  would  go  on  board  and  produce 
the  required  proof  of  the  property  being  as  stated.  This  he  did  to 
the  satisfaction  of  the  Admiral,  who,  he  said,  made  no  hesitation  in 
declaring,  that  if  the  ship  had  been  laden  for  any  other  than  English 
account,  he  should  have  sent  her  in  for  adjudication.  To  this  cir- 
cumstance, therefore,  we  are  indebted  for  being  allowed  to  pass  with- 
out molestation.  Passing  in  sight  of  the  islands  Masafuera  and  Juan 
Fernandez,  we  arrived  in  safety  at  Valparaiso,  after  a remarkably 
pleasant  passage  of  twenty-five  days. 


CHAPTER  XXXV. 


Competition  at  Valparaiso  — Purchase  the  Ship  Ocean — Sail  for  Lima  — Arrival  — 
Completion  of  the  Charter — Drottingen  and  Ocean  sail  for  Guayaquil — Zephyr 
for  Pacasmayo  — Beaver  for  Guayaquil — Sketch  of  Lima  — Arrival  at  Payta  — 
Observations  — Arrival  at  Guayaquil — Controversy  with  the  Governor  — Lade  the 
Ships — Sail  for  Callao  — Arrival  there — Governor  of  Guayaquil  superseded  — 
Sketch  of  Guayaquil. 


|P>25  great  loss  which  I anticipated  from  our  tardy- 
progress  in  lading  the  ship,  was  unfortunately  but 
too  surely  experienced.  The  day  after  we  had  an- 
chored, the  Catalina,  which  we  had  left  loading  at 
Guacho,  arrived,  and,  before  we  had  begun  to  un- 
lade, the  Inspector  also  arrived,  with  a full  cargo 
of  sugar.  The  arrival  of  three  cargoes  of  sugar  at 
'jsgC-M.  'A  the  same  time,  had  an  immediate  tendency  to  depress 
A n'w  the  market ; and  the  cargo  of  the  Beaver,  which,  but  for 
those  two  arrivals,  would  have  brought  from  ten  dollars 
and  a half  to  eleven  dollars  per  arroha , was  with  diffi- 
culty sold  for  seven  dollars  seventy-five  cents  ; making  a 
difference  of  from  twenty-five  to  thirty  thousand  dollars  to 
the  charterer,  and  five  or  six  thousand  on  my  private  adven- 
ture. 

As  I had  received  no  account  of  the  consignment  per  the  Livonia, 
although  twelve  months  had  elapsed,  I lost  no  time  in  calling  on  the 
house  for  an  explanation ; and  had  sufficient  evidence,  that  no 
account  would  ever  have  been  rendered,  if  I had  not  demanded  it  in 
person.  The  notoriety  of  the  embarrassed  situation  of  their  affairs, 
led  me  to  be  very  apprehensive  of  difficulty  in  getting  their  property 
out  of  their  hands.  There  was  evidently  no  other  chance  of  success 
than  to  take  wheat  and  other  produce  of  the  country,  which  they  had 


372 


SEVENTH  VOYAGE. 


in  store.  To  accomplish  this,  it  would  be  necessaiy  to  buy  or  to 
charter  a ship.  I therefore  purchased  the  ship  Ocean,  of  three  hun- 
dred and  sixty-five  tons  burden,  and  received  a cargo  of  wheat  for 
her,  from  the  house.  This  ship  and  cargo  were  one  half  on  my  own 
account,  and  the  other  on  that  of  a Spaniard  at  Lima,  who  had  been 
one  of  the  principal  freighters  in  the  Livonia. 

Not  doubting  that  I should  be  able  to  employ  neutral  ships  advan- 
tageously at  Lima,  I purchased  one  half  of  the  ship  Zephyr,  of  Pro- 
vidence, of  three  hundred  and  sixty  tons  burden,  and  chartered  the 
Swedish  ship  Drottingen,  of  four  hundred  tons.  The  quantity  of  wheat 
which  had  already  been  shipped  for  the  market  of  Lima,  was  such  as 
to  offer  no  prospect  of  profit  on  other  shipments,  and  my  object  in 
putting  any  on  board  these  vessels  was  only  to  secure  an  entry.  The 
account  sales  of  my  adventure  by  the  Livonia,  fell  far  short  of  my 
expectations  ; and  indeed,  produced  one  third  less  than  other  ship 
ments  to  other  consignees  by  the  same  vessel.  This  was  in  part 
accounted  for,  by  the  duties  being  all  charged  as  cash,  when  one 
half  was  paid  in  government  paper,  which  was  then  at  a great  dis- 
count. This  I caused  to  be  refunded  ; and  although  I had  been 
cheated  in  the  weight  and  otherwise,  the  adventure  yielded  a hand- 
some profit. 

Having  completed  lading  the  Beaver  with  wheat,  in  bulk,  and  the 
charterer  being  ready,  on  the  21st  of  January,  1820,  we  sailed  from 
Valparaiso  ; and  after  a pleasant  passage  of  twelve  dajs,  anchored 
once  more  at  Callao.  The  Ocean  had  arrived  some  days  before,  and 
was  unlading.  The  Zephyr  and  Drottingen  arrived  a few  days  after 
the  Beaver,  and  I had  now  the  four  ships  discharging  at  the  same 
time.  The  circumstance  of  making  such  a show  of  business,  excited 
no  less  surprise  at  Lima,  than  it  had  done  at  Valparaiso;  yet  it  was 
at  the  latter  place  only,  where  commerce  is  declared  free,  that  I was 
subjected  to  impertinent  interrogatories  relative  to  my  business,  by 
that  profound  blockhead  De  la  Cruz,  the  Governor  ; a veiy  different 
character  from  the  one  of  the  same  name,  who  was  so  distinguished 
in  the  wars  of  Peru. 

The  successful  accomplishment  of  my  charter  to  Valparaiso  and 
back,  combined  with  the  product  of  my  anterior  freights,  now  gave 
me  the  control  of  an  amount  of  property  which  could  not  fail  to 


SKETCH  OF  LIMA. 


373 


justify  me  in  determining  to  lade  for  home;  in  addition  to  which,  the 
state  of  the  ship  evinced  hut  too  clearly,  that  the  period  had  arrived 
when  the  enterprise  ought  to  be  brought  to  a close  ; cables,  rigging, 
sails,  boats,  every  thing  was  so  much  worn,  as  to  be  barely  sufficient 
to  serve  the  passage  home  ; and  a renewal  of  them  in  this  country 
would  be  attended  with  great  expense.  Duty,  independently  of  in- 
clination, pointed  out  this,  as  the  course  which  ought  to  be  pursued. 
While,  therefore,  the  ship  was  discharging,  I made  a contract  for  a 
cargo  of  cocoa,  to  be  delivered  on  board  at  Guayaquil,  and  obtained 
the  Viceroy’s  license  for  the  same  ; and  was  otherwise  busily  en- 
gaged in  the  settlement  of  my  business,  preparatory  to  taking  a final 
leave  of  Lima.  For  the  Ocean,  I obtained  a freight  from  Guayaquil 
to  return  to  Callao,  and  despatched  her  as  soon  as  unloaded.  For 
the  Zephyr,  I procured  an  advantageous  freight  from  Guanchaca  and 
Pacasmayo,  and  despatched  her  on  the  1st  of  March.  Funds  being 
offered  me  on  respondentia  sufficient  to  lade  the  Drottingen,  I con- 
tracted for  a cargo  deliverable  at  Guayaquil,  on  the  same  terms  as 
the  Beaver's  ; and  laded  her  at  Guayaquil  entirely  on  my  own  ac- 
count, whence  she  proceeded  to  Gibraltar.  The  charterer  of  the 
Beaver  having  resigned  any  further  claim  on  the  ship,  after  com- 
pleting her  unlading,  (the  19th  of  February,)  she  was  again  at  my 
disposal. 

The  term,  for  which  my  crew  had  shipped,  being  now  also  expired, 
I had  to  pay  them  off  and  ship  a new  one  — a disagreeable  job  in  any 
country,  but  a very  difficult  one  at  this  place  ; nevertheless,  I suc- 
ceeded, principally  by  re-shipping  the  old  crew.  Having  employed 
Spaniards  to  ballast  the  ship,  I could  have  been  off  on  the  1st  of 
March,  but  for  a difficulty  at  the  custom-house.  This  arose  from  a 
regulation,  that  no  ship  could  obtain  a clearance,  the  duties  on  whose 
inward  cargo  were  unpaid  ; a regulation  that  placed  me  completely 
at  the  mercy  of  the  charterer,  as  no  bonds  would  be  taken.  It  was, 
therefore,  the  12th  of  March,  before  this  arrangement  could  be  made, 
and  the  clearance  obtained,  when  we  bade  farewell  to  our  Lima 
acquaintance,  and  the  next  day  sailed  for  Guayaquil. 

Nearly  two  years  had  now  elapsed,  since  my  first  arrival  at  Lima, 
and  during  that  period  I had  never  witnessed  a shower  of  rain,  a flash 
of  lightning,  or  a pea!  of  thunder ; but  there  are  very  heavy  dews, 
32 


374 


SEVENTH  VOYAGE. 


amounting  to  Scotch  mists,  for  half  the  year,  during  which  time  the 
sun  is  seldom  seen  ; the  weather,  therefore,  is  gloomy  ; the  dampness 
so  great,  that  every  thing  susceptible  of  it  becomes  rusty ; and  the 
streets  become  so  dirty  and  slippery  as  to  make  it  very  unpleasant  for 
the  pedestrian.  There  were  several  shocks  of  earthquakes,  which 
always  created  alarm,  but  none  that  caused  any  damage  while  I was 
there.  They  are  observed  to  be  less  violent  where  wells  are  common. 
The  market  of  Lima  is  always  well  supplied  with  beef,  mutton, 
poultry,  and  fish,  at  the  seasons  peculiar  to  each  ; with  vegetables 
and  fruit  all  the  year  round.  In  variety  and  excellence,  the  fruits 
surpass  those  of  any  other  country  I have  ever  visited.  Peaches, 
apricots,  plums,  grapes,  apples,  pears,  pines,  guavas,  bananas,  straw- 
berries, and  oranges,  are  abundant  in  their  seasons  ; but  that  which  is 
justiy  the  highest  prized,  and  in  my  opinion  is  the  most  delicious  fruit 
in  the  world,  is  the  cherri  mouie,  a description  of  which  has  been 
given  already  by  so  many  travellers,  as  to  make  it  superfluous  here. 

As  the  ladies  of  Lima  are  famed  for  their  passion  for  flowers,  and 
pay  liberally  for  such  as  are  superior,  the  market  is  generally  well 
supplied  ; but  on  Sundays  and  holidays  there  is  such  a brilliant  dis- 
play of  rich  and  beautiful  colors,  such  an  infinite  variety  and  form, 
all  in  such  perfection,  and  displayed  with  so  much  taste,  that  few  can 
pass  them  without  paying  a voluntary  tribute.  So  many  and  correct 
descriptions  of  Lima  have  been  of  late  years  published,  as  to  make 
it  unnecessary  to  say  any  thing  on  the  subject  here.  I shall  there- 
fore make  only  some  desultory  remarks  on  objects  which  came  im- 
mediately within  my  observation. 

A stranger  is  struck,  on  passing  through  the  streets  of  Lima  for  the 
first  time,  by  the  great  number  of  people  in  the  sacerdotal  garb  ; 
evincing  that  the  affairs  of  the  church  are  in  no  degree  less  engross- 
ing here,  than  in  other  Catholic  countries.  But  a moderate  degree 
of  experience  and  observation  is  sufficient  to  induce  the  belief,  that 
the  moral  and  religious  advantages  which  the  people  derive,  bear  no 
proportion  to  the  multiplicity  of  teachers  ; on  the  contrary,  the  in- 
verse ratio  would  be  nearer  the  correct  one.  Nor  are  the  remarks 
of  Robertson  the  historian,  less  applicable  to  the  existing  generation, 
than  to  that  of  which  he  wrote,  when  he  says,  “ Many  of  the  regular 
clergy  are  not  only  destitute  of  the  virtues  becoming  their  profession, 


SKETCH  OF  LIMA. 


375 


but  regardless  of  that  external  decorum  and  respect  for  the  opinion 
of  mankind,  which  preserve  a semblance  of  worth,  where  the  reality 
is  wanting.”  I have  seen  no  people,  who  appeared  to  be  so  devoted 
to  religious  affairs,  and  none  where  every  rule  of  the  Decalogue  is  so 
generally  disregarded. 

That  the  ambition  and  passions  of  men  are  not  annihilated,  or  even 
mitigated,  by  the  sanctity  and  seclusion  of  the  cloister,  was  proved 
by  an  instance  no  less  ludicrous  than  melancholy,  while  I was  at 
Lima.  The  fraternity  of  Augustine  monks  lost  their  Superior  by 
death.  In  the  choice  of  a successor  the  brotherhood  were  divided, 
and  so  equally,  and  each  party  so  obstinately  bent  on  not  yielding  to 
the  other,  that  they  at  length  came  to  blows ; and  in  the  sanctuary 
where  love,  peace,  and  harmony  are  supposed  to  dwell,  were  raging 
such  discord  and  horrid  war,  that  it  was  only  by  the  aid  of  a military 
force  sent  there  by  the  Viceroy,  that  peace  and  order  were  once 
more  restored  to  these  turbulent  sons  of  the  church. 

The  ridiculous  pride,  which  prevents  the  descendant  of  Europeans 
from  pursuing  any  of  the  mechanic  arts,  has  left  to  a vast  body  of 
the  “ well-born,”  the  choice  only  of  the  sword  or  gown,  employments 
lor  which  many  had  neither  talents  nor  inclination.  Hence  a total 
absence  of  science  and  skill  in  the  military,  and  hence  the  licentious- 
ness and  ignorance  of  the  clergy,  of  whom  the  historian  before  quoted 
observes,  that,  “ notwithstanding  many  of  the  members  of  the  clergy 
enjoy  the  ease  and  independence  which  are  favorable  to  the  cultiva- 
tion of  science,  the  body  of  secular  clergy  has  hardly,  during  two 
centuries  and  a half,  produced  one  author  whose  works  convey  such 
useful  information,  or  possess  such  a degree  of  merit,  as  to  be  ranked 
among  those  which  attract  the  attention  of  enlightened  nations.” 

Neither  the  public  amusements,  nor  the  private  and  select  society 
of  Lima,  were  equal  to  my  expectations,  founded  on  the  consideration 
of  its  age,  population,  opulence,  and  the  long  state  of  tranquillity  it 
has  enjoyed.  The  theatre  is  capacious  and  of  tolerably  good  aspect 
within  ; but  the  performances  are  bad,  and  the  house,  for  the  most 
part,  poorly  attended  ; the  one  probably  a consequence  of  the  other. 
At  the  circus,  where  the  bull-fights  are  exhibited,  there  is  evidence 
given  of  its  continuing  to  be  the  favorite  amusement  of  the  people,  as 
the  boxes  and  seats  are  invariably  crowded  ; the  most  respectable 


376 


SEVENTH  VOYAGE. 


part  of  the  female  world,  however,  (to  their  credit,)  are  generally 
absent.  These,  with  an  occasional  procession,  a military  review,  and 
the  ride  in  the  paseo,  on  Sundays  and  holydays,  constitute  all  the 
public  amusements. 

The  Limeans  appear  to  possess  all  that  dread  of  being  alone,  which 
is  the  peculiarity  of  an  idle  people,  and  therefore  never  miss  meeting 
in  the  evening  at  each  others’  houses,  where  they  have  recourse  to 
the  universal  custom  of  cards  ; in  the  games  of  which  their  children 
are  initiated  at  a very  early  age.  The  ladies  of  Lima  possess  no  or- 
dinary share  of  personal  attraction  ; but,  excepting  the  common 
acquirements  of  music  and  dancing,  they  are  as  uncultivated  as  their 
last  imported  slaves.  Indeed,  as  regards  society,  Lima  affords  none 
to  the  man  of  literature,  for  literature  is  not  cultivated  ; none  to  the 
politician,  for  politics  must  not  be  meddled  with  ; none  to  enterprising 
merchants,  for  enterprise  is  proscribed  ; none  to  teachers  of  political 
economy,  for  political  economy  is  a science  totally  unknown  ; none 
to  the  promoters  of  industry,  for  industry  is  discouraged.  In  fine, 
those  who  can  make  up  their  minds  to  live  in  a state  of  passive  obe- 
dience and  non-resistance  to  the  governing  powers,  and  take  care  not 
to  offend  the  clergy,  may  lead  lives  as  peaceable,  easy,  and  quiet,  as 
they  must  necessarily  be  stupid  and  worthless. 

On  my  way  to  Guayaquil,  we  anchored  at  the  little  town  of  Payti ; 
a place  indebted  for  some  fame  to  the  circumstance  of  its  having  been 
sacked  by  Lord  Anson  ; and  latterly  bv  that  accomplished  buccanier, 
Lord  Cochrane.  To  view  this  miserable  looking  little  town,  and  the 
apparently  extreme  poverty  of  the  inhabitants,  one  would  suppose, 
that  British  magnanimity  would  not  only  have  spared  it,  but  that,  in 
opposition  to  the  common  practices  of  war,  British  generosity  would 
have  tried  to  alleviate  it.  In  both  instances,  however,  the  houses  of 
the  unfortunate  inhabitants  were  stripped  of  every  thing,  not  excepting 
such  articles  even  as  were  of  no  use  to  the  ravage rs.  The  former 
instance  is  on  record,  as  an  evidence  of  British  glory , the  latter  is 
destined  to  imperishable  renown,  as  forming  an  enviable  epoch  in  the 
Chilian  annals. 

Pursuing  our  destination,  we  arrived  and  came  to  anchor,  on  the 
23d  instant,  near  the  town  of  Puna,  at  the  north  end  of  the  Island  of 
that  name.  Here  a pilot  came  on  board  to  take  the  ship  to  Guaya* 


ARRIVAL  AT  GUAYAQUIL. 


377 


quil,  for  which  we  had  a leading  breeze.  When  abreast  of  tbe  fort 
we  were  hailed,  and  ordered  to  come  to  anchor,  and  send  a boat 
ashore  with  the  passport.  The  boat  having  been  already  prepared, 
was  immediately  on  her  way,  and  the  p.lot  was  extremely  anxious  to 
obey  the  summons  of  coming  to  anchor  ; but  having  a leading  breeze, 
I would  not  consent  to  it.  He  then  placed  himself  so  as  to  have  the 
mainmast  as  a shield  against  the  expected  shot ; none,  however,  was 
fired  at  us,  and  we  anchored  off  the  town  of  Guayaquil  on  the  evening 
of  the  25th  of  March. 

I had  the  mortification  to  find  the  Ocean  under  seizure,  on  the  pre- 
text of  irregularity  of  papers  ; and  the  Drottingen  lying  idle,  in  con- 
sequence of  a prohibition  to  lade  til!  the  agent  would  engage  to  pay 
an  additional  export  duty,  exacted  by  the  Governor.  Under  such 
circumstances,  my  first  interview  with  the  Governor  was  not  of  a 
description  to  prepossess  either  in  favor  of  the  other.  I presented 
him  my  license  from  the  Viceroy,  which  he  admitted  to  be  correct, 
and  said  that  we  might  begin  to  lade  as  soon  as  we  pleased.  I then 
explained  to  him  why  the  Ocean’s  documents  were  imperfect;  and 
observed,  she  was  navigating  conformably  to  the  laws  of  the  United 
States,  and  would  be  protected  by  any  of  our  vessels  of  war;  nor 
could  I see  how  he  could  be  justified  in  detaining  a vessel,  whose 
papers  were  so  satisfactory  to  the  Viceroy,  as  to  induce  him  to  grant 
her  the  requisite  license  to  load.  But  it  was  useless  and  unavailing 
to  reason  with  a man,  in  whose  detestation  of  foreigners  and  heretics 
all  our  embarrassments  were  founded,  and  on  his  refusal  to  permit 
the  ship  to  lade  or  to  go  away  in  ballast,  1 requested  him  to  make  a 
prize  of  her,  and  to  treat  the  captain  and  crew  as  prisoners  of  war. 
At  this  his  wrath  was  kindled,  and  in  an  angry  and  vehement  tone 
and  manner,  he  told  me,  that  he  had  had  much  difficulty  to  prevent 
the  populace  taking  possession  of  the  ship  as  insurgent  property,  and 
likewise,  from  putting  me  to  death  for  having  run  down  the  Volador. 
In  a tone  and  manner  somewhat  contemptuous,  I asked  him  how  it 
was  possible,  that  a man  who  was  considered  worthy  of  so  respect- 
able a command  as  that  of  Governor  of  Guayaquil,  could  repeat  so 
ridiculous  a story,  and  abruptly  left  him. 

It  was  now  evident,  that  no  more  time  should  be  lost  in  resisting 
the  Governor’s  exaction,  but  that  we  must  pay  it,  lade  the  ships  as 
32* 


378 


SEVENTH  VOYAGE. 


fast  as  possible,  and  return  again  to  Lima,  for  redress.  In  the  mean 
time,  I wrote  to  Lima  by  the  mail,  complaining  of  the  conduct  of  the 
Governor,  and  made  known  my  determination  to  return  there,  in 
order  that  such  steps  might  be  taken  before  my  arrival,  as  should 
cause  the  least  possible  detention.  With  these  views,  the  lading  of 
both  ships  being  accomplished  at  the  same  time,  we  dropped  down  to 
Puna  on  the  18th  of  April,  sailed  together  on  the  20th,  and  parted 
company  on  the  following  night,  — the  Drottingen  bound  to  Gibral- 
tar, the  Beaver  to  Callao.  Arriving  at  Callao  on  the  16th  of  May,  we 
found  that  we  had  not  been  alone  in  urging  complaints  against  the 
Governor  of  Guayaquil ; but,  that  the  inhabitants,  in  addition,  had 
done  it  so  effectually,  that  an  officer  had  been  appointed  by  the  Vice- 
roy to  supersede  him,  and  had  already  sailed  in  the  Prueba  frigate 
for  that  purpose.  By  a letter  from  the  master  of  the  Ocean,  I was 
informed,  that  when  the  Governor  ascertained  that  we  had  gone  to 
Lima,  instead  of  the  United  States,  as  he  imagined,  he  was  much 
alarmed  and  vexed,  and  that  he  had  not  sufficient  address  to  conceal 
it. 

Guayaquil  is  situated  on  a river  of  the  same  name,  and  about  fifty 
miles  from  the  sea.  At  a narrow  pass  of  the  river,  about  five  leagues 
below  the  town,  called  Punta  de  Piedra,  is  the  fort  intended  for  its 
protection  against  hostile  shipping ; but  it  is  not  strong  enough  to  in- 
sure successful  resistance  against  a serious  attack.  Although  this 
town  is  situated  only  two  degrees  south  of  the  equator,  and  on  low, 
marshy  ground,  its  contiguity  to  a high  chain  of  mountains  renders 
the  climate  healthy  ; among  them  is  occasionally  seen  from  the  town 
the  famed  Chimborazo,  whose  summit,  towering  far  above  the  clouds, 
appears  to  belong  to  some  other  world.  For  the  greater  part  of  the 
year  the  climate  is  said  to  be  agreeable,  but  during  my  visit,  (March 
and  April,)  the  heat  was  exceedingly  oppressive.  The  mosquitoes,  at 
the  same  time,  were  so  numerous  and  annoying,  as  to  compel  me  to 
take  up  my  lodgings  on  shore,  and  my  sailors  to  sleep  in  the  tops  of 
the  ship.  The  houses  are  built  entirely  of  wood,  and  in  an  agreeable 
style,  adapted  to  the  climate.  The  upper  stories  being  most  airy,  and 
most  free  from  mosquitoes,  are  occupied  by  the  family,  while  the 
lower  story  is  destined  for  the  domestics.  The  churches,  convents, 
and  custom-house  are  wooden  buildings,  remarkable  neither  for  size 


SKETCH  OF  GUAYAQUIL. 


?79 


nor  beauty.  The  part  of  the  town  fronting  on  the  river  makes  a 
pretty  appearance  ; but  this,  as  well  as  the  other  parts,  are  kept  so 
intolerably  dirty,  that  nothing  but  positive  training  to  filthiness  saves 
the  people  from  epidemics,  and  the  other  deleterious  effects  of  such 
climates.  The  women  of  this  city  are  so  celebrated  for  beauty  as  to  be 
termed  the  Circassians  of  Peru  ; whether  deservedly  so  or  not  I am 
not  able  to  say,  as  the  heat  prevented  their  walking  out  in  the  day 
time,  and  my  hurry  of  business  prevented  my  engaging  in  the  society 
or  the  place.  The  buccaniers,  however,  who  took  the  town  in  the 
year  1687,  speak  in  the  most  exalted  terms  of  the  beauty  and  amia- 
bility of  those,  who  were  the  great-great-grandmothers  of  the  pres- 
ent generation  ; and  it  is  natural  to  infer,  and  desirable  to  suppose, 
that  the  race  has  not  degenerated. 

The  importance  of  this  place,  in  a commercial  point  of  view,  is 
greater  than  that  of  any  other  on  the  coast  of  Peru,  with  the  excep- 
tion of  Lima,  and  surpasses  this,  even,  in  the  variety  and  value  of 
native  productions.  The  general  average  export  of  cocoa  is  eighty 
thousand  cargas  of  eighty-one  pounds  each.  Timber  of  the  finest 
quality  is  abundant  and  cheap,  and  ship-building  has  long  been  pur- 
sued here  on  an  extensive  scale.  Cotton,  bark,  tanned  hides,  thread, 
&c.  are  among  its  articles  of  export  to  Europe  and  to  Lima.  It 
abounds  in  every  kind  of  fruit  which  is  peculiar  to  the  tropics ; but 
the  pine  apples,  for  size  and  exquisite  flavor,  surpass  those  of  any 
other  country.  The  plantains  are  very  superior  and  abundant,  and 
used  as  a substitute  for  bread.  The  inhabitants  of  this  province  are 
generally,  advocates  of  independence. 


CHAPTER  XXXVI. 


Arrival  at  Callao — Repair  the  Ship  — Sail  for  Rio  Janeiro  — Retrospective  Reflec- 
tions — Receive  a Letter  from  the  Owners  — Remarks  thereon  — Reply  — Arrival  at 
R;o  Janeiro  — Custom-house  Officer — Sail  from  Rio  Janeiro — Happy  Ship’s  Com 
pany  — Arrive  at  New  York  — Letter  to  the  President  of  the  National  Insurance 
Company  — Reception  by  that  Officer — Remark  of  a Merchant  on  the  Voyage. 


feN  our  passage  to  Callao,  the  ship  proved  to  be  so 
leaky,  that  if  no  other  cause  had  made  it  neces- 
sary to  touch  there,  this  would  have  been  suffi- 
cient. On  examination,  it  was  found  that  the 
bends  and  upper  works  were  very  open,  and  re- 
quired re-caulking ; for  which  purpose  there 
would  be  a necessity  of  discharging  that  part  of 
the  cargo  which  was  betwixt  decks.  Fortunately 
I was  able  to  procure  a vessel  into  which  I could  dis- 
charge this  part  of  the  cargo,  and  thus  save  the  expense 
of  transporting  it  to  and  from  the  shore.  While  as 
many  caulkers  were  employed  as  could  work  to  ad- 
vantage on  the  ship,  I was  busily  engaged  in  endeavoring 
to  obtain  from  the  house  which  had  contracted  to  deliver 
me  the  two  cargoes  on  board,  free  of  all  expense,  at  a 
stipulated  price,  the  addition  which  Iliad  been  compelled  to 
pay  to  the  Governor.  They  acknowledged  the  justness  of  my  claim, 
but  declined  reimbursing  me  until  they  had  first  recovered  it  from  the 
government.  A memorial  for  that  purpose  having  been  presented  to 
the  Viceroy,  was,  by  him,  submitted  to  the  Junta  de  Arbitrios,  who 
probably  had  not  come  to  a decision  when  the  subversion  of  the 
gover  nnent,  by  the  invading  army  of  Chili,  put  an  end  to  their  func 
tions. 


RETROSPECTIVE  REFLECTIONS. 


38 


At  the  expiration  of  ten  days  after  my  arrival,  the  requisite  repairs 
were  completed,  the  cargo  re-shipped,  the  water-casks  filled,  and 
every  thing  made  ready  for  our  departure.  Still  the  house,  with 
whom  I had  contracted  for  the  cargo,  refused  to  conform  to  the  con- 
ditions of  the  contract  by  restoring  the  amount,  which  had  been  arbi- 
trarily exacted  from  me  by  the  Governor  of  Guayaquil,  and  which 
should  have  been  on  their  account.  If  it  was  ever  recovered  from 
the  government,  those  to  whom  of  right  it  belonged  never  have  re- 
ceived it.  This,  however,  was  not  an  object  of  sufficient  importance 
to  detain  the  ship,  even  if  the  prospect  of  success  had  been  greater 
than  appeared,  especially  as  the  momentai-y  expectation  of  the  Chilian 
fleet  and  renewal  of  the  blockade  might  cause  us  a long  detention. 
On  this  account,  I considered  it  to  be  so  important  not  to  lose  an 
hour,  after  all  things  were  ready,  that,  a balance  due  on  my  private 
account  to  the  amount  of  between  five  and  six  hundred  dollars,  not 
being  forthcoming  at  nine  o’clock,  as  promised,  I preferred  the  chance 
of  losing  my  money  rather  than  detaining  the  ship  a moment ; and 
therefore  as  two  bells  were  sounded,  on  the  evening  of  the  11th  of 
June,  we  weighed  anchor  and  sailed  for  Rio  Janeiro. 

Thus,  after  an  absence  from  my  country  of  three  years,  I was  once 
more  bending  my  course  homeward,  and  with  a degree  of  impatience 
and  anxiety  augmented  by  the  circumstance  of  having  had  no  tidings 
of  my  family  since  leaving  them.  This  occurred  from  not  having 
fallen  in  with  the  frigate  Macedonian,  on  board  of  which  ship  was  a 
packet  of  letters  for  me  ; but  the  chaplain,  into  whose  charge  they 
were  given,  died  ; they  were  not  left  at  any  port  where  I might  re- 
ceive them,  and  were  handed  me  in  the  United  States  many  months 
after  my  arrival  there.  The  events  of  these  three  years  may  be  thus 
briefly  stated.  I embarked  at  New  York  with  the  most  flattering 
prospects  ; those  prospects  were  blasted  and  succeeded  by  inevitable 
ruin  at  the  first  port  of  entry.  Being  unable  to  reconcile  myself  tc 
the  tedious  process  of  litigation,  in  a Spanish  tribunal,  for  the  recov 
ery  of  the  property,  I had  determined  on  attempting  it  by  violence 
and  at  the  moment  when  everything  was  ready  for  the  executionl-of 
the  design  the  wind  failed  us.  In  a few  hours  after  being  thus  com- 
pelled to  suspend  the  attack,  I was  suddenly  seized  with  fever  of  such 
violence  as  to  render  me  delirious,  and  for  nearly  a week  I was  uncon 


382 


SEVENTH  VOYAGE. 


scious  of  passing  events.  A long  period  of  debility  succeeded  my 
convalescence  ; during  which  I suffered  from  the  combined  cause? 
of  not  being  able  to  obtain  the  requisite  nourishing  food,  and  the 
vexations  incident  to  being  subjected  to  the  surveillance  of  a military 
guard.  In  this  trying  state  of  suspense,  anxiety,  and  incessant  aggra- 
vation, I remained  seven  months,  and  then,  by  virtue  of  an  order 
from  the  Viceroy  of  Peru,  I went  to  Lima,  where  a ray  of  hope  began 
to  dawn.  At  length  my  ship  was  restored  to  me,  together  with  the 
remnant  of  the  cargo.  At  the  expiration  of  twelve  months  from  re- 
gaining possession  of  the  ship,  I had  employed  her  so  advantageously 
as  to  have  paid  all  the  expenses  incident  to  repairing,  re-victualling, 
and  re-manning  her,  which  amounted  to  more  than  the  product  of 
the  remnant  of  the  cargo  returned  to  me.  I had  shipped  on  board 
the  Beaver  for  New  York,  a cargo  of  cocoa  in  bulk,  which,  it  was 
presumable,  would  nearly  replace  the  original  capital  ; besides  specie 
more  than  sufficient  to  defray  all  the  expenses  of  the  ship,  up  to  her 
arrival  in  the  United  States;  and,  in  addition,  a clear  and  legitimate 
claim  on  the  Spanish  government  for  the  original  amount  of  cargo 
and  damages.  This  entirely  for  account  of  the  ownqrs  of  the 
Beaver. 

For  myself,  having  laid  a foundation  before  the  restoration  of  the' 
ship,  by  a speculation  to  Valparaiso,  I bad  succeeded  in  acquiring  a 
property,  such  as  the  most  successful  accomplishment  of  my  views, 
at  the  outset,  would  not  have  produced.  Thus,  again,  as  in  repeated 
instances  of  my  eventful  life,  have  the  circumstances,  which  I de- 
plored as  being  fraught  with  overwhelming  calamity,  proved  to  be 
productive,  in  the  end,  of  the  greatest  good  fortune.  And  thus  is 
manifested  an  instance,  which  teaches  in  the  most  emphatic  manner, 
that,  in  the  most  distressing  circumstances,  we  should  never  yield  tc 
despair,  remembering  alw'ays,  that 

“We,  ignorant  of  ourselves, 

Beg  often  our  own  harms,  which  tt?  wise  powers 
Deny  us  for  our  good;  so  find  we  profit 
By  losing  of  our  prayers.” 

When  on  the  point  of  leaving  Lima,  for  the  United  States,  I re- 
ceived a letter  from  the  owners  of  the  Beaver,  acknowledging  tho 


ARRIVE  AT  RIO  JANEIRO. 


383 


receipt  of  mine  up  to  the  23d  of  August,  and  conveying  a peremptory 
order,  that  I should  lose  no  time  “ in  bringing  so  long-pending  a con- 
cern to  a close,  by  a speedy  return  home,”  &c.  The  impatience 
manifested  in  this  letter,  to  have  returned  to  them  an  old  and  worn- 
out  ship,  that  probably  would  not  sell  at  New  York  for  more  than  it 
would  cost  to  deliver  there,  would  have  excited  surprise,  had  they 
supposed  she  was  engaged  only  in  a moderately  advantageous  busi- 
ness ; but  to  give  such  an  order,  when  informed  by  my  letter  above 
mentioned,  that  their  ship  was  earning  the  enormous  sum  of  ten  thou- 
sand dollars  per  month,  was  perfectly  incomprehensible,  and  seemed 
to  indicate  such  suspicions  that  my  intentions  were  not  honest,  as  was 
very  mortifying.  A peremptory  order,  also,  was  unnecessary,  mis- 
placed, and  offensive.  The  voyage  being  one  of  my  own  suggesting 
and  planning,  it  would  have  been  as  preposterous  for  the  owner  to 
give  orders  as  it  would  for  me  to  receive  them  ; and  though,  for 
form’s  sake  only,  I received  instruction,  yet  it  was  well  understood, 
that  the  entire  and  unshackled  control  of  the  voyage  was  vested  in 
me  ; nor  would  I have  undertaken  the  enterprise  on  any  other  con- 
dition. 

Our  passage  to  Rio  Janeiro,  where  we  arrived  on  the  14th  of  Au- 
gust, was  remarkable  neither  for  celerity  nor  tardiness;  for  very 
good  nor  very  bad  weather.  No  sickness  on  board  to  distress,  and 
no  disorderly  behavior  to  mar  the  general  harmony  and  quiet  on 
board.  As  soon  as  we  had  anchored,  the  usual  number  of  custom- 
house guards  and  soldiers  were  put  on  board.  The  former,  from  the 
facilities  they  are  expected  to  render  to  those  who  make  short  entries, 
are  treated  with  great  familiarity  and  attention  by  the  masters  of 
merchant  ships,  at  whose  table  they  always  occupy  seats,  and  some- 
times invite  their  comrades.  As  I had  no  favor  to  ask  of  them,  other 
than  such  as  common  civility  requires,  which  I was  ready  to  recipro- 
cate, I saw  no  reason  for  submitting  to  the  inconvenience  of  having 
them  at  my  table,  and  therefore  desired  the  steward  to  give  them 
their  meals  in  the  lower  cabin.  I could  not  imagine  that  an  objection 
could  be  made  to  such  arrangement;  but  we  had  scarcely  taken  our 
seats  at  the  supper  table,  when  one  of  the  officers  came  into  the 
round-house,  and  began  to  remonstrate  against  the  want  of  respect 
and  the  indignity  offered  him,  in  not  complying  with  the  invariable 


384 


SEVENTH  VOYAGE. 


practice  of  admitting  the  officers  of  the  customs  to  the  Captain’s 
table.  As  he  was  backward  in  leaving  the  room,  which  1 desired  him 
to  do,  but  continued  talking  in  a high  and  angry  tone,  I arose,  and, 
taking  him  by  the  collar,  led  him  to  the  door,  and  then  gave  him  a 
shove  which  laid  him  sprawling  on  the  deck.  The  soldiers,  w ho 
were  on  the  forecastle,  immediately  came  aft  to  assist  their  comrade, 
who  was  already  on  his  feet  again,  calling  lustily  to  a boat,  that  was 
passing,  to  take  him  on  board.  This  they  complied  with,  and  he  left 
us,  vowing  vengeance. 

The  next  morning,  as  soon  as  the  rules  of  etiquette  would  admit,  I 
made  the  customary  and  requisite  visit  to  the  Intendente.  He  was 
sitting  at  his  desk  writing  when  I entered,  and  rose  to  receive  me. 
On  being  informed  who  I was,  he  immediately  alluded  to  the  com- 
plaint of  ill  treatment  on  board  my  ship,  by  one  of  the  officers  of  the 
customs.  I then  told  him  my  story,  as  already  narrated.  On  hear- 
ing which,  he  admitted  I had  served  the  officer  as  he  deserved  ; and 
another,  of  less  pretensions,  was  sent  on  board  in  his  stead.  Taking 
leave  of  the  Intendente,  with  apparently  no  unfavorable  impressions 
on  his  part,  from  the  circumstance  of  the  officer’s  denunciation,  I 
immediately  set  about  the  necessary  measures  for  collecting  the  pro- 
visions and  stores  which  were  needed,  and  replenishing  our  stock  of 
wood  and  water. 

As  the  cargo  I had  on  board  was  much  better  adapted  to  the  mar- 
ket of  Gibraltar,  than  to  that  of  New  York,  I conceived  it  to  be  prob- 
able, that  I should  find  letters  at  Rio  Janeiro,  directing  me  to  proceed 
there,  but  was  agreeably  disappointed  at  receiving  only  a duplicate 
of  the  one  already  mentioned,  ordering  me  to  make  the  best  of  my 
way  home,  with  the  least  possible  delay. 

Having  passed  a week,  very  agreeably,  at  Rio  Janeiro,  and  ob- 
tained the  supplies  required,  we  sailed  for  home  on  the  21st  of  Au- 
gust, 1820. 

Our  passage  to  New  York  was  uncommonly  pleasant,  both  for  its 
celerity  and  the  enjoyment  of  an  uninterrupted  course  of  fine  wea- 
ther, but  entirely  destitute  of  any  exciting  occurrence  to  vary  or  in- 
terrupt the  usual  routine  of  a sea  passage.  When  we  had  arrived 
within  sight  of  the  Highlands  of  Neversink,  and  myself  and  officers 
were  exchanging  mutual  congratulations  at  the  prospect  of  so  soon 


LETTER  TO  THE  UNDERWRITERS. 


385 


experiencing  a cessation  of  our  labors,  I was  astonished  to  perceive 
an  opposite  feeling  to  be  prevalent  with  the  crew.  Instead  of  the 
animation  and  hilarity,  always  observable  with  seamen  when  on  the 
point  of  arriving,  ours  were  interchanging  expressions  of  regret,  that 
the  voyage  was  about  being  brought  to  a close.  This  may,  in  part, 
be  accounted  for  by  their  being  foreigners,  who,  on  arrival,  could 
anticipate  no  kind  greetings  of  relatives  or  friends.  But  it  was  an 
anomaly  ; and  inasmuch  as  it  was  an  evidence  of  their  happiness, 
and  of  a just  appreciation  of  their  usage  on  board,  it  was  a circum- 
stance no  less  gratifying  to  me  than  remarkable  in  itself. 

The  tenor  of  the  letter  I had  received  from  the  underwriters,  was  a 
theme  on  which  my  mind  had  been  much  occupied  during  the  pas- 
sage. As  it  was  not  supposable  I could  feel  any  of  that  complacency 
toward  them,  which  was  constant  and  undevialing  toward  Messrs. 
Astor  and  Whitten,  as  a consequence  of  the  confidence  reposed  in 
me,  I determined  to  address  to  them  a letter,  expressive  of  my  senti- 
ments and  feelings,  which  should  be  presented  before  my  interview 
with  them.  Accordingly,  I prepared  such  a letter  ; and,  sending  it 
by  the  pilot,  it  reached  them  several  hours  before  I presented  myself. 
I therein  reminded  them  of  their  acknowledging  the  receipt  of  my 
letter  from  Lima,  by  which  they  were  informed  that  their  ship  was 
earning  the  enormous  freight  of  ten  thousand  dollars  per  month,  and 
of  the  inference,  very  naturally  suggested  to  my  mind  by  the  peremp- 
tory order  for  her  immediate  return,  after  being  possessed  of  such 
information,  namely,  that  there  was  an  unjustifiable  want  of  confi- 
dence, and  an  implied  apprehension  affecting  my  honor.  In  the  dis- 
asters attending  the  early  part  of  the  voyage,  perhaps  there  might  be 
some  apology  for  the  first ; but  I did  not  admit  any  whatever  for  the 
last;  which,  I assured  them,  was  the  only  instance  of  the  kind  dur- 
ing my  life,  and  had  been  productive  of  pain  and  mortification  to  me, 
in  proportion  to  its  novelty,  and  the  respectability  of  the  source  from 
which  it  originated.  Such  being  the  case,  however  I remarked  on  the 
regret  I experienced  at  the  time  the  order  was  received,  that  it  had 
not  been  conveyed  to  me  by  a person  authorized  to  relieve  me  from 
the  charge  of  the  ship,  as  I could  have  improved  the  time  much  more 
advantageously  to  myself  had  I been  free  from  this  incumbrance. 

Conceiving,  however,  that  they  could  not  be  aware  of  the  efforts 

33 


386 


SEVENTH  VOYAGE. 


and  means  I had  used  for  the  recovery  of  the  ship,  and  hei  employ- 
ment afterwards,  it  appeared  to  me  to  be  no  more  than  justice  to  mv- 
self,  that  I should  state  to  them  a few  particulars,  as  follows  : 

First.  Amid  a hostile  people,  and  in  the  endurance  of  great  pri- 
vations, I remained  by  the  property  at  Talcahuana,  after  every  other 
individual,  belonging  to  the  ship,  had  left  her,  and  when  its  situation, 
was  so  desperate,  that  I should  have  been  justified,  in  the  opinion  of 
the  world,  in  abandoning  it. 

Second.  For  the  recovery  of  the  ship,  without  expense  to  the 
owners,  they  were  indebted  to  exertions  and  enterprise,  on  my  part, 
in  performing  a service  for  the  Viceroy  at  the  risk  of  my  life,  and 
which,  by  superseding  the  necessity  of  employing  counsel,  was  a sav- 
ing to  the  concern  of  probably  ten  thousand  dollars. 

Third.  While  making  these  exertions  it  was  obvious  to  me,  that 
their  success  would  be  prejudicial  to  my  own  interest,  because,  had  I 
been  freed  from  the  incumbrance  of  the  ship,  my  time  could  have 
been  employed  more  advantageously  for  my  private  interest. 

Fourth.  I took  upon  myself  the  responsibility  of  disregarding  the 
proclamation  of  blockade  of  the  Chilian  Vice-Admiral  ; and,  being 
the  only  neutral  who  dared  to  do  it,  I had  the  almost  exclusive  busi- 
ness of  the  Peruvian  coast,  and  hence  accumulated  a property  for  the 
owners  in  one  year,  by  freighting,  for  which,  I believe,  the  annals  of 
commerce  can  furnish  no  parallel. 

Fifth.  While  lying  in  the  roads  of  Pisco,  I suppressed  a mutiny 
in  the  ship's  company,  composed  of  a lawless  set  of  foreigners, 
where  no  other  seamen  were  procurable  ; and  where,  had  my  attempt 
failed,  the  property  would  most  probably  have  been  lost. 

Finally,  I acknowledged  that  I had  received  information  as  early 
as  June,  1819,  that  the  property  had  been  abandoned  to  the  under- 
writers, and  was  conscious  of  being  engaged  in  laboring  for  men  who 
knew  me  only  by  name  ; and  to  whom  my  happiness  or  misery,  my 
living  or  dying,  was  of  no  other  interest,  than  as  it  was  connected 
with  the  safety  of  their  property. 

Having  also  informed  them  that  from  my  year’s  exertion  in  their 
behalf,  I had  laden  for  their  account  on  board  the  Beaver  eight  hun 
dred  and  forty  thousand  four  hundred  and  fifty-six  pounds  of  cocoa  ; 
and  had  besides  a balance  in  specie  of  between  five  and  six  thousand 


REMARKS  ON  THE  VOYAGE. 


387 


dollars,  I expressed  to  them  my  extreme  regret,  that  this  had  not 
been  done  before  their  patience  was  exhausted,  but  hoped  forgiveness 
on  the  principle,  that  “ to  err  is  human,  — to  forgive,  divine.” 

This  letter,  as  before  observed,  was  forwarded  by  the  pilot,  and 
not  knowing  the  persons  to  whom  it  was  addressed,  it  was  difficult  to 
conjecture  how  it  would  be  received.  I was  uncertain  whether  the 
President  was  not  a choleric  and  arrogant  young  man,  whose  angry 
feelings  would  be  roused  by  what  he  might  imagine  to  be  a want  of 
due  inspect,  and  who  would  be  prepared  to  resent  it,  or  whether  he 
was  one  who  had  reached  the  period  of  life,  when  the  passions  be- 
come subdued  ; and  who,  entering  into  my  feelings,  would  have  the 
candor  to  acknowledge  them  natural,  and  receive  me  with  cordiality. 
I presented  myself,  therefore,  at  the  office,  prepared  for  peace  or  war. 

The  very  agreeable  surprise  at  the  hearty  and  cordial  reception  I 
experienced  from  the  venerable  President,  when  introduced  to  him, 
quite  overcame  me.  He  rose  to  meet  me,  his  frank  and  benign  coun- 
tenance beaming  with  expressions  of  goodness  and  amiability  ; in- 
spiring no  other  sentiments  than  those  of  respect,  confidence,  and 
veneration  ; and,  taking  both  my  hands,  he  said  to  me,  “ I have  re- 
ceived your  letter,  Sir.  I honor  your  feelings.  I thank  you  for 
what  you  have  done  for  us  ; although  I am  not  authorized  to  promise 
you  pecuniary  remuneration,  you  will  nevertheless  have  it.”  Having 
expressed  to  him,  how  much  more  gratifying  to  my  feelings  was  the 
expression  of  such  approbation  and  kindness,  than  any  pecuniary  re- 
ward, I left  the  office  with  emotions  very  different  from  those  with 
which  I entered  it. 

My  voyage,  I perceived,  had  made  a considerable  sensation  with 
‘.he  mercantile  community  ; and  I was  complimented  on  its  fortunate 
termination,  by  some  whom  I did,  and  others  whom  1 did  not  know. 
Among  the  former,  particularly,  was  an  old  and  respectable  merchant 
who  had  retired  from  business  with  an  ample  fortune  ; one  well 
versed  in  mercantile  affairs,  but  of  a generous  disposition.  After  the 
interchange  of  the  customary  salutations,  on  meeting,  he  observed  to 
me,  “ You  have  done  well  for  the  office  ; you  have  raised  the  value 
of  its  stock  ten  per  cent.  ; they  cannot  give  you  less  than  ten  thou- 
sand dollars.”  Several  of  the  stockholders,  also,  expressed  their 
obligation  to  me. 


CHAPTER  XXXVII. 


Visit  my  Family  in  Massachusetts  — Return  to  New  York — Owners  object  to  ror 
Commission  — Left  to  Arbitrators  — Deduct  therefrom  two  and  a half  percent. — 
Disappointed  in  promised  Remuneration  — Letter  to  the  President  — No  Reply  — 
Comparison  of  this  Company  with  others  — Not  attributable  to  the  President  — 
Observations  on  Corporations — Close'  of  ray  Voyaging — Remarkable  fact  as  re- 
spects. Loss  of  Men  and  Sickness  — Loss  of  Property— Don  Pedro  Abadia — Don 
I Jose  Arismendi  — Proceed  to  Hamburg  — Return  — Letter  to  Abadia — Proceed  to 
Bordeaux  and  Madrid — Interview  with  Arismendi  — Viceroy. — Return  via  Pari; 

■ and  Havre  — Arismendi  in  Boston  — Imprisoned  — Escape  by  the  aid  of  a Mer- 
. chant — His  Cunning  — Proceed  to  Havana  — Death  of  Mr.  Shaler  — Effort  to  obT 
tain  the  Consulate  — Disappointed  — Return  tc  Boston. 


mm  the  satisfaction  naturally  resulting  from 
the  abundant  evidence  I had  received,  that  my 
services  were  duly  appreciated,  and  during  the 
time  the  ship  was  unlading,  I absented  myself  a 
week  to  visit  my  family  in  Massachusetts.  On 
my  return,  I found  that  an  objection  was  made 
my  charge  of  ten  per  cent,  on  the  nett  proceeds 
freights.  I was  aware  that  such  a charge  might 
be  without  precedent;  but  I was  equally  aware  that  it 
was  no  more  than  a just  proportion,  with  the  extra  ser- 
vices I had  rendered  ; since,  independently  of  obtain- 
ing a restoration  of  the  ship,  in  the  manner  rela- 
ted, I procured  all  the  freights  without  the  intervention  of  a 
broker.  And  when,  for  collecting  their  amounts,  I was 
sometimes  compelled  to  employ  an  agent  rather  than  detain 
the  ship,  the  commission  paid  for  such  service  was  not 
charged  to  account  of  the  owners.  Besides,  had  the  graduation  of 
my  emoluments  been  made  with  any  reference  to  what  they  would 
have  been,  but  for  the  seizure,  they  would  have  much  exceeded  the 
ten  per  cent,  charged. 


VISIT  MY  FAMILY. 


389 


These  circumstances  were  urged  to  the  gentlemen  interested,  but 
were  of  no  avail.  Mr.  Astor  being  unfortunately  in  Europe  at  this 
time,  his  agent,  had  he  been  disposed  to  act  liberally,  would  have 
feared  to  evince  a less  exacting  disposition,  than  the  underwriters 
were  doing  ; hence  recourse  was  had  to  the  ordinary  mode  of  settle- 
ment, in  like  cases,  that  of  arbitration;  the  result  of  which  was  a de- 
duction of  two  and  a half  per  cent,  on  my  charge. 

It  is  not  unusual  for  those  to  be  dissatisfied,  who  are  adjudged  by 
arbitrators  to  be  in  error;  and  it  appeared  to  me,  that  I had  abundant 
cause  ; but  I refrained  from  manifesting  it  to  my  opponents  at  the 
time,  because  I trusted  to  the  repeated  (though  unofficial)  assurances 
of  the  President  of  the  National  Insurance  Company,  of  pecuniary 
remuneration  ; and  presuming  that  this  would,  at  least,  be  equal  to 
the  sum  deducted  from  my  commission,  the  cause  of  dissatisfaction, 
on  my  part,  would  be  obviated. 

With  such  impressions,  and  having,  as  in  duty  bound,  submitted  to 
the  award  of  the  arbitrators,  I left  the  city  for  my  home,  without 
notifying  the  underwriters  of  my  intention  ; as  I wished  to  avoid 
the  appearance  of  hurrying  them  on  the  question  of  the  promised  re- 
muneration, but  never  doubting  that  it  would  come  in  due  time.  A 
month,  however,  passed,  and  I heard  nothing  from  them,  and  so  a 
second  month,  when  I could  no  longer  doubt  that  they  had  found  it 
convenient  to  forget  trie. 

The  conviction,  that  the  supposed  honorable,  liitcral,  high-minded 
men  with  whom  I was  thus  brought  in  contact  were  capable  of  such 
conduct,  was  very  painful  to  me.  Indignant  at  such  treatment,  and 
mortified  at  being  thus  duped,  I determined  to  give  them  a word  at 
parting  expressive  of  those  feelings. 

Accordingly,  under  date  Lancaster  22d  of  December,  1820,  I ad- 
dressed a letter  to  the  President  of  the  National  Insurance  Company, 
in  which  I referred  to  mine  dated  the  5th  of  October,  enumerating 
the  unusual  services  I had  rendered  the  Company,  in  the  reeavf  *y 
and  successful  employment  of  the  Beaver  ; and  further  remarked, 
that  if  I had  condescended  to  make  invidious  comparisons,  I could 
have  proved  that  what  they  considered  to  be  an  extra  commission 
bore  no  proportion  to  the  extra  earnings  of  the  Beaver,  over  those  of 
any  other  vessel  then  on  the  Peruvian  coast  ; and  this,  less  from  an) 
33* 


390 


SEVENTH  VOYAGE. 


concurrence  of  fortunate  circumstances,  than  from  a difference  in 
favor  of  my  management.  I again  reminded  him  of  his  promise  of 
remuneration,  and  of  its  being  repeated  at  a subsequent  interview  ; 
and  expressed  my  belief  that  these  promises  were  made  with  the  in- 
tention of  throwing  me  off  my  guard,  and  of  lulling  me  into  security, 
the  better  to  deceive  me  ; and  that  the  success  attending  it,  had  been, 
I doubted  not,  gratifying  to  all  who  shared  in  the  two  and  a half  per 
cent,  thus  saved  to  the  Company.  This  letter  closed  by  the  remark, 

that,  had  I conducted  your  business  with  as  little  regard  to  the 
observance  of  the  rule  of  ‘ doing  unto  others  as  we  would  that  they 
should  do  unto  us,’  as  has  been  observed,  in  this  instance,  towards 
me,  the  result  of  the  Beaver’s  voyage  would  have  been  very  different 
from  what  it  is.”  To  this  letter  I never  received  a reply. 

It  must  occur  to  everyone  versed  in  maratime  affairs,  how  different 
would  have  been  the  conduct  of  Lloyd’s  in  a similar  case,  and  I doubt 
not,  of  most  of  our  own  Insurance  Companies.  Such  an  occurrence 
is  the  more  remarkable  from  its  being  in  the  commercial  emporium, 
where  such  a spirit  of  generosity  is  prevalent,  that  there  is  scarcely 
a captain  of  a packet-ship,  who,  for  merely  conveying  his  passengers 
in  safety  across  the  Atlantic,  has  not  been  complimented  with  a piece 
of  plate. 

But  it  would  be  doing  injustice  to  the  venerable  and  respectable 
President  of  the  Company  not  to  acknowledge,  that,  though  of  neces- 
sity he  was  the  person  to  be  officially  addressed,  I believe  him  to  have 
been  incapable  of  a mean  or  dishonorable  act ; and  that,  when  he 
made  the  promise  alluded  to,  lie  sincerely  believed  the  directors 
would,  as  he  knew  they  ought,  confirm  it.  There  were  two  of  the 
directors  who  expressed  to  me  their  disapproval  of  the  curtailment  of 
my  commission  ; and  a third,  who  said  to  me,  that  he  felt  shame  at 
being  one  of  an  association  capable  of  such  dishonorable  conduct. 
But  there  was  one  individual  among  the  directors,  whose  great  wealth 
gave  him  a preponderating  influence  in  the  affairs  of  the  office.  The 
greater  deference  paid  to  his  opinions,  than  to  those  of  any  of  his 
associates,  was  very  perceptible  ; and  it  is  probable,  that  the  Presi- 
dent taking  it  for  granted,  that  a handsome  compensation  could  not 
honorably  be  withheld,  had  the  temerity  to  assure  me  of  it,  before 
consulting  him,  and  thus  caused  the  defeat  of  his  intention.  How- 


OBSERVATIONS  ON  CORPORATIONS. 


391 


ever  it  may  have  been,  it  is  a fact,  that  all  I receive!  was  the  un- 
official thanks  of  the  President,  and  that  I suffered  a deduction  of  two 
and  a half  per  cent,  from  my  commission. 

That  corporations  have  no  souls,  and  that  men  in  a corporate 
capacity  are  often  guilty  of  acts  of  injustice  and  oppression,  such  as, 
individually,  they  would  be  ashamed  of,  is  an  old  observation,  the 
truth  of  which,  almost  every  day’s  experience  confirms.  But  com- 
ments on  so  clear  a case  are  superfluous  ; and  I will  only  add  the 
curious  fact,  that  almost  simultaneously  with  the  discovery  that  ten 
per  cent,  was  too  much  for  the  laborious,  hazardous,  and  eminently 
successful  services  I had  rendered  the  Company,  one  of  the  directors 
of  this  very  Company  did  not  perceive,  that  ten  per  cent,  was  too 
much  for  merely  paying  the  disbursements  on  the  building  and  equip- 
ment of  the  Greek  frigates.* 

More  than  twenty  years  have  elapsed  since  the  occurrence  of  the 
transactions  above  narrated,  and  those  of  the  actors,  who  have  not 
passed  off  the  stage,  may  be  surprised  at  a recurrence  to  affairs  which 
probably  have  long  since  been  forgotten  by  them.  This,  they  may 
be  assured,  has  not  arisen  from  any  hostile  or  unkind  feeling  toward 
them,  but  from  the  circumstance  alone  of  perceiving  that  my  nar- 
rative would  be  incomplete  if  they  were  omitted. 

The  voyage,  just  narrated  in  the  Beaver,  was  the  close  of  a series 
of  voyages  to  most  parts  of  the  habitable  globe,  comprising  a period 
of  twenty-four  years,  in  various  kinds  of  craft,  from  the  boat  of 
twenty-five  tons,  to  an  Indiaman  of  one  thousand  tons  ; and  on  the 
most  laborious  and  hazardous  enterprises,  as  will  have  been  seen. 
But  a remarkable  fact,  which  is  worthy  of  note,  may  have  escaped 
the  observation  of  the  reader,  that  during  that  long  period,  some  por- 
tion of  which  was  passed  in  the  most  sickly  climates  of  the  globe,  I 
never  lost  but  three  men,  — two  by  fevef,  and  the  third  by  a fall 


* A letter  which  I received  at  this  time,  from  the  house  of  Tooke,  Robinson  & Co., 
of  London,  places  in  strong  relief  their  conduct  when  compared  with  those  with  whom 
1 had  recently  been  brought  in  contact.  Its  object  was  to  inform  me  of  their  holding 
a hundred  and  twenty  pounds  at  my  disposal,  being  principal  and  interest  on  a sum 
arising  from  a mistake  accidentally  discovered,  in  accounts  relative  to  transactions  in 
wheat  eight  or  ten  years  previous ; and  which,  they  remark,  I must  consider  some- 
what in  the  light  of  a prize  in  the  lottery.  This  was  paid  to  my  draft  at  sight. 


392 


SEVENTH  VOYAGE. 


from  the  mast-head.  Although  I have  repeatedly  been  five  months 
on  a single  passage,  I have  never  been  under  the  necessity  of  putting 
my  men  ori  allowance  of  provisions  or  water  ; and  to  this  circum- 
stance, combined  with  guarding  them  against  unnecessary  fatigue 
and  exposure,  I was  probably  indebted  not  only  for  the  happiness  of 
escaping  that  scourge  to  seamen  on  long  voyages,  the  scurvy,  but 
almost  all  other  kinds  of  sickness. 

Although  the  private  affairs  of  an  individual  may  generally  be  con- 
sidered to  possess  little  attraction  for  the  public,  yet,  to  those  who 
have  followed  me  thus  far,  I have  supposed  that  some  details  of  my 
subsequent  course  might  not  be  destitute  of  interest. 

Acting  in  opposition  to  the  maxim,  that  “ a bird  in  the  hand  is 
worth  two  in  the  bush,”  I was  destined  again  to  see  swept  off",  in  less 
than  a year  after  my  return,  the  greater  part  of  my  hard  earnings. 
A most  unfortunate  enterprise  to  Gibraltar;  incompetent,  selfish,  and 
careless  agents  ; and,  more  than  either,  a most  shameful  abuse  of  the 
confidence  I had  placed  in  the  commercial  house  at  Lima,  with  which 
l had  been  so  long  doing  business,  (Abadia  & Arismendi,)  were  the 
causes  of  these  misfortunes.  Soon  after  these  reverses  were  known 
to  my  acquaintance  in  Boston,  I met  my  highly  esteemed  friend, 
George  Cabot,  Esq.,  who,  in  his  happy  manner,  remarked  to  me,  “that 
I had  cut  a great  deal  of  hay,  but  had  got  it  in  very  badly.”  Alas  ! 
I felt  most  sensibly,  that  it  was  too  true.  The  information  of  the  rev- 
olution in  Peru,  of  the  consequent  confusion  in  the  commerce  of  Li- 
ma, of  the  breaking  up  of  the  house  of  Abadia  & Arismendi,  and  of 
the  escape  of  the  latter,  with  a large  amount  in  silver,  in  an  Ameri- 
can brig  for  Manilla,  was  received  here  not  many  months  after  my 
arrival. 

During  the  Vice-Regal  Government,  no  stranger  of  respectability 
ever  visited  Lima  without  enjoying  the  hospitality  of  Don  Pedro  Aba- 
dia. He  was  eminently  hospitable,  urbane,  and  friendly  ; but 
although  of  superior  education,  and  extensive  intercourse  with  man- 
kind, he  was  bigoted  and  priest-ridden.  His  talents  and  education, 
and  the  extraneous  circumstances  of  his  being  agent  at  Lima  of  the 
Philipine  Company,  and  of  his  brother’s  being  about  that  time  one  of 
the  cabinet  of  King  Ferdinand  ; all  combined  to  give  him  an  influ- 
ence with  the  Viceroy  and  the  Cabildo,  unsurpassed  by  any  othei 


ABADIA  AND  ARISMENDI. 


393 


indi\  idual  in  the  kingdom.  This  influence  was  often  exerted  for  my 
advantage,  or  rather  for  that  of  the  owners  of  the  Beaver  ; advanta- 
ges, however,  which  were  reciprocal ; as  it  enabled  me  to  throw  into 
their  hands  many  valuable  consignments.  It  was  Abadia  who  gave  to 
the  house  the  character  of  respectability  which  it  possessed,  and 
which  was  such  as  to  inspire  a degree  of  confidence,  Vvhich  secured 
to  it,  almost  exclusively,  the  foreign  business  of  the  place. 

Don  Jose  de  Arismendi  was  the  active,  business  man  of  the  house  ; 
a man  who  possessed  the  capacity  of  accomplishing  much  and  varied 
business,  with  a degree  of  despatch  and  adroitness  very  rarely  seen 
among  his  countrymen.  While  present  with  him,  he  would  conduct 
the  business  with  which  he  was  charged,  on  fair,  honorable,  and  lib- 
eral principles.  By  this  semblance  of  honesty  and  fair  dealing,  I was 
deceived,  and  was  induced  to  confide  in  the  house  to  an  extent  which 
I discovered,  when  too  late,  was  entirely  unmerited,  and  which  had 
been  attended  with  ruinous  consequences  to  me.  It  was  late  in  my 
transactions  with  the  house  before  I discovered  the  peculiarly  of  the 
connection.  Abadia's  relation  to  the  Philipine  Company  did  not  ad 
mit  of  his  engaging  in  a private  mercantile  house ; hence,  while  a 
sharer  in  its  advantages  he  was  exempt  from  its  responsibilities  ; ana 
hence  all  the  accounts  and  business  documents  were  signed  exclusive- 
ly by  Arismendi.  Had  this  circumstance  been  known,  as  it  ought  to 
have  been,  it  would  have  tended  greatly  to  diminish  the  general  con- 
fidence in  the  house. 

Late  in  the  summer  of  the  year  1823,  mention  was  made  in  one  of 
the  Boston  newspapers  of  the  arrival  of  Senor  Arismendi  at  Ham- 
burgh, in  the  Boscoe  of  Salem,  freighted  with  a rich  cargo  for  his 
account  from  Manilla.  As  I had  no  doubt  of  this  being  my  quondam 
friend,  I flattered  myself  that,  starting  immediately,  and  circumstances 
lavoring,  I might  reach  there  before  he  should  have  left.  Accord- 
ingly, in  forty-eight  hours  after  receiving  the  information,  I was  on  my 
way  to  New  York  ; and  in  thirty  days  more,  I arrived  at  Hamburgh, 
via  Liverpool,  London,  Harwich,  and  Cuxhaven.  But  I had  the  mor- 
tification to  find  tha  my  labor  was  in  vain.  Arismendi  had  been 
landed  at  tenerifFe  ; and  the  cargo  of  the  Boscoe,  yet  unsold,  was  so 
well  covered  in  the  name  of  a Senor  Zavaleta,  a former  clerk  of  Aris- 
mendi, who  swore  the  property  belonged  exclusively  to  himself,  that 


394 


SEVENTH  VOYAGE. 


it  could  not  be  touched.  After  passing  four  days  at  Hamburgh,  and 
with  the  aid  of  one  of  the  most  intelligent  merchants  of  that  city, 
being  unable  to  effect  any  thing,  I set  out  on  my  return  by  the  same 
route  I had  come.  Fortunately  I arrived  at  Liverpool  just  as  the 
packet  I came  in  was  hauling  out  of  dock  on  her  return,  and,  em- 
barking on  board,  I arrived  at  New  York  on  the  seventy-third  day 
after  leaving  it. 

Towards  autumn  of  the  following  year,  1824,  I received  informa- 
tion of  the  arrival  of  Senor  Abadia  at  St.  Thomas,  and  immediately 
wrote  him  on  the  subject  of  my  demand.  A copy  of  my  letter  to 
him  will  best  explain  my  views,  as  follows. 

“ Lancaster,  21st  Sept.  1824. 

‘ Don  Pedro  Abadia, 

“ Dear  Sir, — By  a letter  from  our  mutual  friend,  Mr.  C.,  I learn 
that  after  many  perils  and  some  pecuniary  embarrassment,  you  have 
arrived  safe  at  St.  Thomas.  On  this  event  permit  me  to  offer  you 
my  most  hearty  congratulations.  It  was  reported  last  year,  that  you 
had  arrived  at  Porto  Rico  ; and  knowing  that  you  possessed  a coffee 
plantation  there,  I thought  this  very  probable,  and  directed  several 
letters  to  you  there,  some  one  of  which  you  may  have  received. 
These  letters  were  written  with  the  hope  of  inducing  you  to  use  some 
effort,  or  point  out  some  means,  by  which  the  confidence  I placed  in 
the  honor  and  integrity  of  your  house  should  not  be  productive  of  my 
ruin.  Among  various  other  ite'ms,  you  must  be  aware  that  a sum  of 
fifteen  thousand  dollars,  charged  me  in  account,  as  shipped  for  me, 
on  board  the  Macedonian,  and  for  which  I hold  duplicate  acknowl- 
edgments of  Arismendi,  was  never  shipped.  I will  not  attempt  to 
describe  to  you  my  astonishment,  when,  after  a great  lapse  of  time, 
I received  letters  from  Captain  Smith  informing  me  that  I had  been 
deceived,  and  that  no  property  had  been  shipped  with  him,  either  for 
my  account,  or  that  of  your  house.  Independent  of  other  sums,  this 
amount,  with  five  years’  interest,  will  make  an  aggregate  of  upwards 
of  $20,000,  as  one  item  now  due  me  from  your  house. 

“ Consider,  my  dear  Sii,  that  this  is  the  fruit  of  very  hard  labor,  in 
the  most  toilsome  profession  ; and  that  on  the  possession  or  loss  of  it, 
is  dependent,  a life  of  ease  and  comfort  with  my  family,  or  protract- 
ed absenes,  care,  and  toil,  for  the  rest  of  my  life. 


LETTER  TO  ABADIA. 


395 


“You  informed  Mr.  C.  that  Arismendi  saved  about  three  hundred 
thousand  dollars.  I had  heard  of  his  arrival  at  Manilla,  with  a large 
property,  two  years  since  ; that,  last  year,  he  had  there  chartered  the 
brig  Roscoe,  and  with  this  property  had  arrived  at  Hamburgh.  In 
forty-eight  hours  after  receiving  this  intelligence,  I was  on  my  way 
to  Liverpool,  where  I arrived  early  in  October,  and  proceeded  imme- 
diately to  London,  caused  inquiries  to  be  made  of  the  Spanish  houses 
there  if  they  knew  anything  of  Arismendi.  They  referred  me  to  the 
London  Times  of  the  7th  of  October,  (only  two  days  previous  to  my 
arrival,)  in  which  appeared  the  advertisement  which  I send  to  Mr.  C. 
to  be  forwarded  by  him  to  you.  This  advertisement  was  sufficient 
to  account  for  Arismendi’s  not  venturing  up  channel,  to  accompany 
his  property  to  Hamburgh.  I therefore  proceeded  to  Hamburgh, 
where  I found  an  amount  of  sixty  to  seventy  thousand  dollars  of  the 
cargo  of  the  Roscoe,  in  possession  of  a Mr.  Zavaleta,  in  whose  name 
it  had  been  shipped,  at  Manilla,  who  had  accompanied  it,  and  who 
solemnly  swore  that  the  property  belonged  to  him.  Arismendi  had 
been  landed  at  Teneriffe.  I had  then,  and  have  now,  no  doubt  that 
this  property  belonged  to  Arismendi ; but,  unfortunately,  I could  pro- 
duce no  proof  of  it ; and  therefore  my  efforts  were  of  no  avail.  I 
wrote  to  a house  at  Teneriffe  on  the  subject,  and  received  for  answer 
that  Arismendi  remained  there  only  two  or  three  days,  and  then  em- 
barked for  the  continent.  This  is  the  last  I have  heard  of  his  move- 
ments. He  told  Zavalete.  he  should  assume  some  other  name.  In 
this  case  I do  not  perceive  how  you  can  discover  where  he  is,  or  how 
he  can  receive  the  information  that  you  are  at  St.  Thomas. 

“ I presume  from  the  tenor  of  your  letter  to  C.  that  you  have  no 
amount  of  property  with  you,  and  that,  not  less  on  your  own  account 
than  from  a desire  which  I believe  you  to  possess,  of  doing 
justice  to  your  creditors,  you  will  leave  no  effort  untried  to  discover 
the  retreat  of  Arismendi,  and  to  get  that  property  from  him,  which, 
while  withheld  ffom  the  creditors  of  the  house,  will  (however  unde- 
served) be  considered  not  less  dishonorable  to  the  name  and  charac- 
ter of  Abadia  than  to  that  of  Arismendi.  If  there  should  be  any  such 
chance  for  the  recovery  of  the  property  as  would  justify  the  expense 
of  my  meeting  you  at  St.  Thomas,  and  there  taking  your  directions 
and  power  to  settle  with  Arismendi  in  Europe,  I would  not  hesitate  to 


396 


SEVENTH  VOYAGE. 


embark  on  such  an  expedition  ; indeed,  I would  even  proceed  to  Lima, 
if  you  had  any  property  remaining  there,  which  there  was  a fair 
chance  of  recovering.  It  will  afford  me  much  pleasure  to  hear  from 
you,”  &c.  &c. 

Whether  this  letter  was  ever  received  by  Abadia,  I have  never 
been  informed.  Scarcely  two  months  had  elapsed  after  writing  the 
above  letter,  when  I received  such  information  as  could  be  depended 
on,  that  Arismendi  was  at  the  paternal  residence,  at  Zarauz  in  Gui- 
puzcoa.  I had  no  hesitation,  therefore,  in  embarking  at  New  York, 
in  December,  in  a brig  bound  for  Bordeaux.  Arriving  there  some 
time  in  the  month  of  January,  1825,  I proceeded,  via  Bayonne,  Pas- 
sage, and  Yrun,  to  San  Sebastian.  From  hence  a messenger  was 
despatched  to  Zarauz,  who  soon  returned  with  information  that  Aris- 
mendi was  at  Madrid  ; and  with  the  name  of  the  street  where  he 
resided.  Taking  the  Diligence,  therefore,  to  Madrid,  I had  the  good 
fortune  to  arrive  there  without  being  robbed.  The  next  day  I suc- 
ceeded, not  without  much  difficulty,  in  finding  the  person  of  whom  I 
had  been  so  long  in  pursuit,  and  was  actually  once  more  in  his  pres- 
ence. Had  an  apparition  appeared  to  him,  he  could  not  have  exhib- 
ited greater  evidence  of  astonishment  and  dismay  ; nor  was  it  until 
the  expiration  of  some  minutes,  that  he  was  able  to  converse  rational- 
ly. Unfortunately  it  required  but  little  conversation  to  ascertain  that 
my  efforts  would  prove  to  be  unavailing,  and  that  I should  recover 
nothing. 

Arismendi  had  succeeded  in  obtaining  what  is  termed  a morotoria, 
which  is  a security  against  molestation  of  person  or  property,  by  cred- 
itors, for  a certain  period.  His  was  for  four  years.  He  begged  me 
not  to  press  my  demand  ; declared  he  had  the  control  of  no  proper- 
ty, and  the  wretchedly  mean,  dirty  and  obscure  lodgings  he  occupied 
would  confirm  the  truth  of  such  assertion,  if  made  by  other  than  a 
very  cunning  man.  But  I had  no  belief  in  it,  and  therefore  did  not 
desist  from  the  pursuit  until  satisfied,  by  repeated  conversations  with 
him,  and  the  best  advice  I could  procure,  during  a residence  of  a fort- 
night at  Madrid,  that  there  existed  not  a hope  of  obtaining  anything. 

As  some  alleviation  to  my  disappointment,  so  far  as  it  tended,  in  a 
degree,  to  keep  up  hope,  Arismendi  gave  me  a power  of  attorney  for 
the  recovery  of  a large  amount  of  property,  alleged  to  be  due  him 


RETURN  TO  AMERICA. 


397 


from  sundry  merchants  in  the  United  States.  From  a cursory  exam- 
ination of  these  claims,  I was  induced  to  believe  that  a considerable 
sum  might  be  recovered,  and  I therefore  flattered  myself  that  there 
existed  some  chance  of  indemnification  for  my  trouble  and  persevei- 
ance. 

Soon  becoming  reconciled  to  my  disappointment,  and  burying  it  in 
the  oblivion  which  screened  such  a multitude  of  its  predecessors,  I 
passed  the  time  very  agreeably  at  Madrid,  in  visiting  the  numerous 
objects  of  interest  with  which  that  city  abounds,  the  result  of  which 
was  given  to  the  public  soon  after  my  return,  through  the  medium  of 
the  Literary  Gazette,  of  Boston,  edited  by  J.  G.  Carter,  Esq. 

The  ci-devant.  Viceroy  of  Peru  (Pezuela,)  hearing  of  my  being  in 
the  city,  sent  a messenger  to  me  with  an  invitation  to  his  house,  t 
went,  therefore,  in  conformity,  and  was  received  by  him  with  the 
cordiality  of  an  old  friend.  He  inquired  how  my  various  mercantile 
operations  had  resulted,  and  evinced  an  interest  in  my  affairs  which 
was  as  pleasing  as  it  was  unexpected.  His  inquiries  for  Captain  Bid- 
dle, and  his  expressions  of  friendship  for  him  were  made  with  an 
eariftstness  of  manner  which  left  no  doubt  of  the  esteem  and  regard 
he  cherished  for  that  distinguished  officer.  To  the  hospitality  of  our 
worthy  minister,  Mr.  Nelson,  and  to  that  of  the  family  of  Mr.  Rich,  I 
was  indebted  for  the  most  agreeable  social  hours  I passed  at  Madrid. 

Taking  leave  of  my  kind  friends  at  Madrid,  I returned  to  Bordeaux 
by  the  same  route  I had  passed  over  before,  excepting  not  revisiting 
San  Sebastian.  On  ascertaining  at  Bordeaux  that  no  opportunity 
would  occur  for  the  United  States  for  some  weeks,  I took  the  Dili- 
gence for  Paris,  where,  after  passing  a week,  I proceeded  t©  Havre, 
and  took  passage  in  the  Edward  Quesnel  for  New  York,  and  arrived 
there  in  the  month  of  April,  1825. 

The  agency  for  the  collection  of  another’s  debts  is  an  unaccepta- 
ble service,  more  especially  when  they  are  of  a description  suscepti*. 
ble  of  controversy  ; but  in  this  instance  there  existed  more  than  the 
usual  inducement,  for  I hoped  thus  to  cancel  the  debt  due  me.  Up- 
wards of  one  hundred  thousand  dollars  were  claimed  of  a Boston 
merchant,  the  justice  of  which  he  denied,  and  refused  to  pay  any  part 
of  it.  A demand  on  a merchant  at  Baltimore,  for  a much  less  amount 
was  equally  unsuccessful.  The  only  lebt  acknowledged  by  the  sig- 
34 


398 


SEVENTH  VOYAGE. 


nature  of  the  debtor,  was  that  of  an  old  and  intimate  friend,  who 
could  ill  spare  the  money,  and  from  whom  it  was  very  painful  to  me 
to  exact  it ; but  forbearance  would  have  been  a dereliction  of  duty, 
and  would  have  been  no  otherwise  serviceable  to  my  friend,  than  to 
defer  the  time  of  payment.  Accordingly,  I recovered  from  him  an 
amount  about  equal  to  one  fourth  of  that  due  me  from  Arismendi. 

When  I was  convinced  that  nothing  more  was  recoverable  under 
the  power  of  attorney,  I wrote  to  Arismendi,  under  the  assumed  name 
of  Don  Fausto  Corral,  as  agreed  on,  to  this  effect ; assuring  him  of 
my  conviction  that  he  would  never  obtain  any  thing  through  the  in- 
termediation of  an  agent,  and  that  the  only  course  which  presented 
any  prospect  of  success,  was  to  come  to  this  country  and  prosecute 
the  business  in  person.  This,  however,  I did  not  believe  he  would  do, 
from  the  circumstance  that  there  were  large  demands  against  his 
house,  in  this  country. 

Nearly  two  years  elapsed  after  writing  this  letter,  and  I heard 
nothing  from  him,  when  suddenly,  and  without  any  previous  intima- 
tion to  anybody,  he  made  his  appearance  in  Boston.  He  was  accom- 
panied by  a nephew,  who,  like  himself,  spoke  no  other  than  the  Span- 
ish language.  They  were  in  very  obscure  and  ordinary  lodgings, 
kept  by  a foreigner,  which  circumstance,  combined  with  their  having 
brought  no  letters,  was  evidence  of  their  desire  of  concealment. 

After  the  usual  salutations  on  so  unexpected  a meeting  had  passed, 
1 rendered  to  him  an  account  of  my  stewardship,  of  which  he  had 
previously  been  informed  by  my  letter.  1 now  felt  a security,  and 
consequent  exultation,  in  the  recovery  of  my  property,  which  I had 
not  experienced  before  ; indeed  I perceived  no  way  in  which  it  could 
be  eludeti;  but  the  short-sightedness  of  man  is  proverbial,  and  scarce 
a day  passes  that  it  is  not  self-evident.  As  Arismendi  was  indebted 
ten  thousand  dollars  for  short  freight  on  a ship,  belonging  equally  to 
myself  and  to  a merchant  in  Providence,  1 did  not  imagine  any  mis- 
chief could  arise  from  informing  him  of  it,  though  the  result  but  too 
clearly  proved,  that  this  information  had  better  been  delayed.  With 
ill-judged  impetuosity  he  sent  the  papers,  proving  the  debt,  to  a law- 
yer of  this  city,  with  directions  to  institute  a suit,  notifying  me,  at 
the  same  time,  of  his  having  done  so,  Perceiving  at  once  the  mischief 
that  would  result  from  precipitate  action,  I went  to  the  lawyer  and 


ESCAPE  OF  ARISMENDI. 


399 


persuaded  him  to  wait  a week,  with  a view  of  giving  Arismendi  time 
10  ascertain  the  prospect  of  recovering  the  property  of  which  he  was 
in  pursuit.  This  engagement,  owing  to  some  mistake,  was  not  ad* 
hered  to,  the  writ  was  issued,  and  for  want  of  bail  he  was  imprison- 
ed ; thus  taking  from  him  the  power  of  making  those  collections  on 
which  mainly  depended  the  chance  of  obtaining  our  payment.  It  was 
literally  destroying  the  bird  that  was  destined  to  lay  the  golden  egg. 

This  error  being  manifest,  one  of  the  partners  of  the  Providence 
house  came  on,  in  the  hope  of  retrieving  it,  and  in  this  view  we  unit- 
ed in  an  act  which  rendered  the  matter  worse,  that  of  releasing  him 
from  prison,  on  his  promise  of  making  a settlement  ; for  it  soon  be- 
came evident  that  his  object  was  only  to  be  emancipated,  and  that  he 
had  no  intention  of  fulfilling  his  engagement.  On  being  satisfied  of 
this,  recourse  was  had  to  the  institution  of  a new  suit,  but  before  the 
writ  could  be  served  on  him,  he  absconded. 

This  act,  no  less  disgraceful  on  the  part  of  the  assistant,  than  of 
the  principal,  was  effected  by  the  aid  of  a Boston  merchant,  who  en- 
abled him  to  elude  the  vigilance  of  the  officer  charged  with  the  arrest, 
concealed  him  until  a vessel  for  St.  Thomas  was  ready  to  sail,  and 
then  conveyed,  or  caused  him  to  be  conveyed,  on  board,  thus  assist- 
ing a fraudulent  debtor  to  flee  from  justice,  and  preventing  honest 
creditors  from  recovering  their  just  demands. 

In  judging  of  actions  we  often  err,  and  are  guilty  of  injustice  to- 
wards the  individual  whose  motives  we  undertake  to  scan  ; but  in 
this  instance  there  can  be  no  mistake.  As  there  existed  no  personal 
hos»:,ity  or  animosity  to  me,  it  was  palpably  no  other  than  sordid  in- 
terest. Arismendi  crossed  the  Atlantic  for  the  purpose,  principally 
of  collecting  a debt  of  upwards  of  one  hundred  thousand  dollars, 
aJeged  to  be  due  him  from  this  Boston  merchant. 

On  the  presumption  that  it  was  desirable  to  avoid  payment,  or  even 
to  avert  a troublesome  course  of  litigation,  nothing  could  possibly 
have  happened  more  opportune,  than  the  coincidence  of  circumstan- 
ces, by  which  he  became  the  confident,  the  adviser,  and  the  liberator 
of  Arismendi,  ostensibly  to  screen  him  from  the  rigors  of  a prison, 
but  really  to  get  rid  of  the  payment  of  the  debt;  for,  once  away,  he 
knew  there  was  a moral  certainty  he  would  not  return  to  prosecute 
in  person,  and  it  was  apparent  it  could  not  be  done  by  an  agent, 


400 


SEVENTH  VOYAGE. 


without  incurring  the  risk  of  the  property’s  being  trusteed.  But  every 
single  act  of  a man’s  life,  when  seen  from  a right  point  of  view,  is 
found  to  be  in  harmony  with  his  whole  character. 

It  was  very  evident  that  1 must  relinquish  all  hope  of  ever  recov- 
ering this  debt,  or  any  part  of  it  ; a debt  so  considerable,  that  its  loss 
was  productive  of  serious  inconvenience  to  me  ; a debt,  for  the  re- 
covery of  which  I had  made  two  voyages  to  Europe  ; had  induced 
the  debtor  to  come  to  this  country,  and  when  in  possession  of  the 
means  of  compelling  payment,  by  a concurrence  of  unfortunate  cir- 
cumstances, already  detailed,  missed  profiting  by  those  means;  thus 
truly  verifying  the  adage  of  “ many  a slip  between  the  cup  and  the 
lip.” 

An  uninterrupted  correspondence  with  my  friend  Shaler,  during  his 
long  residence  at  Algiers,  as  Consul  General  of  the  United  States, 
kept  alive  that  friendship  whose  origin  was  of  so  remote  a date.  Af- 
ter his  return  to  the  United  States,  being  appointed  to  the  Consulate 
of  Havana,  he  invited  me  to  accompany  him,  on  terms  of  perfect 
equality  in  everything  essential.  Taking  charge  of  the  Consulate  in 
October,  1829,  we  remained  there  together  until  the  melancholy  oc- 
currence of  his  death  by  cholera,  in  March,  1833,  when  it  raged  at 
Havana  with  unparalleled  fatality.  In  the  death  of  Mr.  Shaler,  tiie 
country  lost  a most  excellent  and  patriotic  citizen  ; the  government  a 
devoted  and  highly  talented  officer  ; and  myself  a long-tried  and 
deeply  lamented  friend. 

The  evidence  of  estimation  evinced  by  a long  list  of  the  most  re- 
spectable among  the  merchants  and  others  of  Boston,  Salem,  Port- 
land, and  Plavana,  to  procure  my  appointment  to  the  vacant  con- 
sulate, although  unsuccessful,  was  very  flattering,  and  excitea  my 
most  grateful  acknowledgments. 


CONCLUSION. 


is  a propensity  in  men  to  inquire  intotf»e 
affairs  of  their  neighbors,  to  discover  the  state  of 
their  fortune,  to  find  out  how  much  was  made  ny 
one  operation,  and  how  much  was  lost  by  anotner. 
This  propensity,  which  is  generally  stronger  in  small 
than  in  large  communities,  is  very  often  the  offspring 
of  impertinent  curiosity  ; but  it  may  also,  in  many 
persons,  be  the  result  of  kind  feelings,  and  a sym- 
pathy in  the  good  or  bad  fortune  of  the  individual.  On 
the  presumption  that  some  of  this  latter  class,  who  may 
have  perused  my  narrative,  may  be  gratified  with  a 
summary  of  my  gains  and  losses,  and  the  final  result  of 
my  labors,  I am  induced  to  close  my  book  with  such  a 
sketch,  aware  of  subjecting  myself  to  animadversion  ; but  too 
near  the  close  of  life  to  be  affected  by  it. 

It  will  have  been  seen  that  the  amount  of  my  outfit  from 
France  was  four  thousand  five  hundred  dollars,  of  which  two  thou- 
sand were  mine  and  two  thousand  five  hundred  belonged  to  others, 
and  were  shipped  on  half  profits.  This  produced  at  the  Cape  of  Good 
Hope  eleven  thousand  dollars,  which  were  invested  in  an  enterprise 
from  China  to  the  Northwest  Coast  of  America,  together  with  seven 
thousand  dollars  belonging  to  some  friends,  making  the  cost  of  the 
expedition  to  the  Northwest  Coast,  for  vessel  and  cargo,  eighteen 
thousand  dollars.  The  furs  procured  there  sold  in  China  for  sixty 
thousand  dollars,  about  one  third  of  which  was  shipped  in  teas  to  the 
United  States,  and  the  other  two  thirds  taken  to  Calcutta,  the  Isle  of 
France,  and  Denmark. 

The  profits  on  the  cargo  from  the  Isle  of  France  to  Denmark  were 
34*  401 


402 


COWCUTSKKS.. 


great.  In  about  two  years  from  the  time  of  sailing  on  my  Northwest 
voyage,  the  eighteen  thousand  dollars  cost  yielded  in  Denmark  and 
the  United  States  upwards  of  one  hundred  thousand  dollars  -r  and  the 
two  thousand  dollars,  the  amount  of  my  property  on  leaving  Europe, 
together  with  my  commissions,  wages,  and  half  profits,  amounted  to 
about  forty-five  thousand  dollars.. 

Such  a brilliant  result  to  my  enterprise  may  be  supposed  to  have 
been  very  gratifying  to  me,  if  on  no  other  consideration  than  the  ac* 
quisition  of  independence  ; but  It  was  vastly  more  so,  from  the  cir- 
cumstance of  its  enabling  me  to  make  comfortable  and  happy  the 
latter  years  of  a father,  who,  with  a young  family,  was  feeling  the 
pressure  of  poverty  ; of  aged  uncles  and.  aunts,  who  had  seen  better 
days,  and  whose  kindness  to  me  required  that  I should  leave  nothing 
undone,  which  was  in  my  power  to  do,  to  promote  their  happiness. 

From  my  next  enterprise  in  the  Lelia  Byrd,  which  was  of  three 
years’  duration,  I returned  to  Boston  in  the  sprip.g  of  the  year  1804, 
in  the  ship  Alert,  having  on  board  an  invoice  of  silks  of  about  fifty 
thousand  dollars,  belonging  equally  to  my  friend  Shaler  and  myself. 
The  result  of  this,  with  that  of  my  former  voyage,  and  my  interest 
<n  the  Lelia  Byrd  under  the  direction  of  Mr.. Shaler,  would  amount 
to  about  seventy  thousand  dollars,  which  I possessed  in  the  year 
1804,  clear  of  debt. 

I then  embarked  in  commerce  to  the  extent  of  my  ability  ; was  un- 
fortunate, and  by  the  time  my  friend  Shaler  returned  to  the  United 
States  in  1807,  having  made  a disastrous  voyager  this,  with  my  own 
operations,  had  diminished  our  capital  two  thirds,  leaving  us  only  about 
twenty  thousand  dollars  each,  or  forty  thousand  dollars  ; all  of  which 
was  embarked  in  the  Aspasia,  under  my  command..  The  total  loss 
of  this  property  by  the  confiscation  of  the  Telemaco  at  Tortola,  and 
the  disaster  which  occurred  to  the  Aspasia,  is  fully  detailed.  I was 
now  ruined,  with  a family  to  support,  and  with  no  other  way  of  doing 
it  than  by  pursuing  a profession,  which  had  every  day  become  more 
hazardous  by  the  increasing  depredations  of  the  British  cruisers. 

Years  rolled  on,  during  which  I was  an  exile  from  my  family,  toil- 
ing for  their  support,  and  for  the  acquisition  of  independence.  My 
voyages  to  Africa,  to  England,  and  to  Holland  during  the  embargo, 
were  successful.  By  my  voyage  to  Naples,  although  vessel  and  cargo 


CONCLUSION. 


403 


were  seized  and  confiscated,  I made  sixteen  thousand  dollars.  In 
the  William,  which  was  wrecked  on  Jutland,  I made  a profit  of  five 
thousand  dollars.  These  sums  were  embarked  in  a voyage  from  Co- 
penhagen to  Riga  and  back,  which  was  performed  successfully. 
Afterwards  I was  interested  in  several  cargoes  of  wheat  from  Holstein 
to  England,  which  yielded  a handsome  profit ; so  that  I had  once 
more  a capital  of  about  thirty-five  thousand  dollars.  This  was  em- 
barked in  an  adventure  fi^m  England,  destined  for  Hamburgh,  and 
which,  owing  to  the  defeat  of  Napoleon  in  Russia,  turned  out  nearly 
a total  loss. 

Returning  home  penniless,  I had  to  begin  the  world  again.  The 
peace  between  the  United  States  and  England  having  been  ratified 
soon  after  my  return,  and  the  then  pacification  of  the  world  render- 
ing commercial  adventures  little  productive,  I gained  only  five  th  i- 
sand  dollars  as  master  and  supercargo  of  a ship  to  Batavia.  By  my 
next  voyage  in  the  Beaver,  in  the  years  1817  to  1820,  I made  sev- 
enty-five thousand  dollars  ; and  after  my  return,  in  an  adventure  to 
Peru,  in  the  ship  Tea-Plant,  with  Messrs.  LeRoy  and  Bayard,  I made 
eight  thousand  dollars.  The  greater  portion  of  the  amount  acquired 
in  the  Beaver  was  swept  off  as  detailed,  before  it  reached  the  United 
States,  and  most  of  the  remainder  in  an  unfortunate  voyage  to  China. 
On  my  return  from  Havana,  in  1835,  I had  yet  about  sixteen  thou- 
sand dollars.  This  was  all  swallowed  up  in  an  unsuccessful  specu- 
lation in  1836,  and  I was  thus  a third  time  left  destitute. 

On  making  an  estimate  of  my  losses  of  the  twenty  years  between 
1805  and  1825,  I find  their  aggregate  amount  to  exceed  two  hundred 
thousand  dollars,  although  I never  possessed  at  any  one  time  a sum 
exceeding  eighty  thousand  dollars.  Under  such  losses,  I have  been 
supported  by  the  consoling  reflection,  that  they  have  been  exclusively 
mine,  and  that  it  is  not  in  the  power  of  any  individual  to  say,  with 
truth,  that  I have  injured  him  to  the  amount  of  a dollar. 

With  a small  annual  sum  from  the  Neapolitan  indemnity,  I have 
been  enabled  to  support  myself,  till  this  was  on  the  point  of  ceasing 
by  the  cancelling  of  that  debt  ; when  I was  so  fortunate  as  to  obtain 
an  office  in  the  custom-house,  the  duties  of  which  I hope  to  perform 
faithfully,  and  in  peace,  during  the  few  remaining  years,  or  months, 
or  days,  which  may  be  allotted  me  on  earth. 


APPENDIX. 


WILLIAM  SHALER  TO  R.  J.  CLEVELAND. 

,)ear  Cleveland  : 

5L22JF2T  Macao  the  14th  February,  1804,  clear- 
ed the  Lema  the  18th,  and,  after  a hard  and  tedi- 
ous passage,  I cleared  the  Formosa  passage  the  7th 
of  March.  We  had  the  most  intolerably  bad 
weather,  during  our  passage,  that  I ever  experien- 
ced ; gale  succeeded  gale  with  torrents  of  rain, 
and  we  found  no  steady  weather  until  we  came  into 
high  latitude. 

The  bad  state  of  our  foremast,  and  being  destitute  of 
spare  spars  of  any  kind,  determined  me  to  give  up  ali 
thoughts  of  going  to  the  southward  ; and,  as  it  appeared 
necessary  to  gain  a high  latitude  to  get  to  the  eastward 
all,  I resolved  to  proceed  to  Columbia  River  to  get  a new 
mast  and  other  spars.  We  had  several  persons  on  board 
who  had  been  there.  From  what  they  told  me,  and  Van- 
couver’s description  of  that  entrance,  I was  led  to  suppose  it  the  most 
eligible  relache  that  we  could  make.  Notwithstanding  all  these  plau- 
sible considerations,  it  proved  rather  an  unhappy  resolution,  as  will  be 
seen.  On  the  first  day  of  May  we  arrived  off  the  river,  ran  close  in, 
and  found  the  breakers  so  very  heavy  on  the  bar  that  it  was  impos- 
sible to  go  over  ; we  hauled  off  again,  and  lay  off  and  on  until  the  8th, 
it  blowing  the  greatest  part  of  the  time  very  hard,  and  the  heavies* 


APPENDIX. 


405 

swell  running  from  the  westward  that  lever  experienced.  Whenever 
the  weather  moderated  sufficiently,  I ran  in,  and  always  found  the 
bar  impracticable.  Our  wood  and  water  began  to  run  short,  and, 
however  cruel  the  disappointment,  I was  obliged  to  bear  away  and 
seek  a more  practicable  port.  I am  convinced,  from  what  1 have 
seen,  that  a ship  may  often  lay  off  and  on  Columbia  river  a month, 
without  finding  a smooth  time  to  go  in. 

Trinity  was  the  next  place  to  this,  where  there  was  a probability  of 
getting  spars,  &c.  There  we  arrived  the  11th,  and  found  what  we 
wanted,  that  is,  spars,  wood  and  water,  — the  former  were  at  such  a 
distance  from  the  shore,  as  to  render  it  very  difficult  procuring  them. 
We  went  to  work,  however,  and  cut  down  a very  fine  stick  and  got  it 
roughed  out,  and  I was  in  great  hopes  of  having  a good  foremast  on 
board  soon  ; but  fortune  had  ordered  it  otherwise.  The  Indians  were 
at  first  very  friendly.  We  treated  them  well,  and,  to  inspire  them 
with  confidence,  and  to  conciliate  their  friendship,  I went  several 
times  ashore,  unarmed,  to  their  village.  Prompted,  I believe,  by  the 
devil  himself,  they  all  at  once  became  as  hostile  as  they  were  friend- 
ly at  first,  and  attacked  our  boat  one  morning  a watering,  and  took 
four  casks,  which  they  immediately  stove  for  the  hoops.  Our  peo- 
ple’s arms  had  got  wet  in  landing,  and  they  were  glad  to  escape  with 
their  lives.  I seized  a canoe  that  was  alongside,  when  they  returned, 
and  made  four  prisoners,  hoping  that  while  they  were  in  our  posses- 
sion they  would  not  molest  us  any  more.  I then  sent  both  boats  well 
armed  ; the  one  lay  to  an  anchor  just  in  the  edge  of  the  surf,  while 
some  went  ashore  to  fill  the  casks  in  the  other.  The  Indians  had  got 
a reinforcement,  and,  just  as  the  casks  were  filled,  about  a hundred 
ran  down,  armed  with  long  spears,  and  firing  a cloud  of  arrows  as 
they  advanced.  We  fired  several  vollies  on  them  from  the  longboat, 
which  the  savages  stocd  with  great  resolution,  and  did  not  retreat  till 
several  of  them  dropped.  The  next  day  we  took  possession  of  a rock 
that  commanded  not  only  the  beach,  but  their  village.  Here  I placed 
Mr.  Hudson  with  three  men,  and  completed  our  wood  and  water  un- 
der their  protection.  This  manoeuvre  entirely  disconcerted  the  sav- 
ages, and  they  abandoned  their  village  and  retired  to  the  woods. 

Nothing  was  now  wanting  but  the  spars ; but  to  get  them  to  the 
water-side  required  the  united  labor  of  all  our  crew.  It  would  besides 


406 


APPENDIX. 


lake  up  several  days,  and  of  course  give  the  savages,  who  had  now 
collected  in  great  numbers,  time  and  opportunity  to  attack  us  to  ad- 
vantage. Under  these  circumstances,  I thought  it  most  prudent  not 
to  attempt  it.  Thus  ended  the  campaign  of  Trinity,  and  we  left  the 
harbor  the  18th,  with  a stock  of  water,  some  wood,  and  about  fifty 
prime  skins,  sea-otter. 

I next  determined  to  look  at  the  Bodega  ; but  when  we  arrived 
there  it  blew  very  hard,  and  there  was  so  little  appearance  of  shelter, 
and  the  country  round  bore  so  unpromising  an  aspect,  that  I did  not 
think  it  advisable  to  anchor  there.  In  latitude  35°  20'  I hauled  in  for 
a smoke  ashore  ; some  Indians  came  off,  and  informed  me  that  there 
was  a rich  Mission  in  the  neighborhood,  where  there  was  plenty  of 
skins,  and  an  abundance  of  every  thing.  One  of  them  also  informed 
me  that  there  was  good  anchorage  a little  to  leeward.  I ran  by  his 
directions,  and  found  one  of  the  most  spacious  bays  that  we  have  yet 
seen,  where  no  ship  had  ever  anchored  before  us.  Here  1 found  a 
plenty  of  wood  and  water,  and  I purchased  as  much  provision  of  eve- 
ry kind  as  I could  stow,  from  the  Mission.  From  thence  I proceed- 
ed down  the  coast  under  easy  sail,  examining  every  creek  and  cor- 
ner, and  as  yet  have  had  no  reason  to  regret  my  investigation,  as  by 
this  time,  when  I am  leaving  San  Juan,  I have  collected  about  eight 
hundred  skins.  I have  met  with  no  misfortune  except  the  loss  of  an 
anchor,  and  I have  got  a piece  of  timber  to  fish  my  foremast,  which 
I intend  to  do  the  first  good  opportunity. 

The  resources  of  California  are  much  more  considerable  than  I 
ever  thought  they  were.  On  the  upper  coast,  wood  and  water  are 
plenty,  and  all  kinds  of  provisions  in  the  greatest  abundance.  I think 
I never  saw  finer  beef  than  we  put  up  there.  They  take  skins  now 
at  all  the  upper  Missions,  and  I have  little  doubt  of  making  a good 
voyage,  by  collecting  them,  in  two  seasons,  if  every  other  resource 
should  fail ; the  Indians  above  are  very  intelligent ; they  come  on 
board  every  where  when  a ship  appears  ; and,  by  writing  ashore,  I 
always  get  every  necessary  information.  There  will  probably  be  no 
ship  but  ours  on  the  coast  this  coming  season,  and  of  course  our  pros- 
pect is  good. 

Every  thing  now  conspires  to  leave  me  no  choice  of  going  any 
where  but  up  the  Gulf,  from  whence  if  I am  successful,  I may  run 


APPENDIX. 


407 


this  coast  down  again,  and  be  in  Canton  this  season  ; but  all  this  is 
too  uncertain  to  speculate  upon.  I have  found  the  Franciscans  a bru 
tal  set ; but  their  cupidity  is  sufficient  to  effect  everything  I want  of 
them.  They  will  not  give  me  any  information  respecting  peace  or 
war,  but  I shall  learn  all  that  from  their  more  polite  brethren  below. 
I leave  this  with  father  Miguel,  to  be  forwarded  to  Canton  by  the  first 
ship  that  may  touch  here. 

Very  truly  yours, 

WM.  SHALEJL 

S.  J.  Cleveland,  Esq. 


Duke  University  Libraries 


D00525975X 


■<§/ 


910.4  G635I  58^710 

Cleveland 

In  the  forecastle 


910.4 


C635I 


588710 


